You should get one if those movable elbow connections for the fish tank drainer you made. In theory if you can position it then you could run it out a window out to a garden bed. Especially in nicer months. They would get watered and “fish emulsion” all at once. Fantastic fertilizer.
LEGIT. That's a big one I'm glad you mentioned. I bought the sample pack to start my fish off and when I ran out picked up something from the local pet store. It was pretty night-and-day when i switched over to the store-bought food because almost immediately it started breaking down into a muck that found its way to the glass and substrate. When I was using the Legit food it just seemed to break down smaller without turning to slime, but usually got eaten at some point along the way. So yeah, I'm due for a reorder of bottom feeder pellets!
13:40 Screen: just use a sponge filter cover as it will slip right over the pipe. Glue? If you don't glue, it will eventually lose the siphon. To start siphon: Put hose up to bottom of pipe in the sink, turn on water and fill up pipe until you see water flow into tank. Remove hose and you have water leaving tank.
I use a giant prefilter sponge I got on Amazon to cover the intake of my siphon. Works a treat. Any cleanup I need to do I use a 1/4" tube to suck stuff up.
I really wanna try the father fish method I'm curious been in hobby for 30 years only discovered him last year. He has tanks that have been set up for 23 years all hes ever done was top evaporation off and the fish thrive whole ecosystem pretty cool
Never change my water. Just add new water. Use a simple filter system with only pillow stuffing. Live plants are a must . Simple grow lights. Been doing it for years.
I don't do any water changes in my 100 gallon, my cherry shrimp breeding tanks or my dwarf frog tank. They're a mixed/filtered walstad method and fully planted. Peramiters are spot on. 👌
My route is always filter the water before changing the water. Ofc, in emergencies, the rule is not applied. But in general I tend to use healthy amount of surfaces for bacteria to grow, be it sand/gravel, wood/porous stone or via custom filters. And a lot of plants! As for additions to the tank, yeah, more schooling fish. 🙂👍
You can get plastic strainer cones that slip fit right into pvc adapters. That's what i use, and the siphon doesn't affect fish regardless of size. In fact, I use this method of draining so that i can drain much faster through large diameter vinyl hose right into my yard. Drains even large tanks very quickly, and then i plug a garden hose adapted with a barb fitting right into the open end of the drain hose to refill very quickly as well. You can change large tanks in less than 5 minutes this way. And i usually give the glass a quick cleaning during that process. It is very time efficient if you have lots of bigger tanks or a fish room because you can then move it to the next tank, unplug the garden hose from the drain hose, and the siphon begins again automatically.
For the refill portion, maybe plumb in a float valve in the back corner with an additional valve that you turn on/off. That way doesn’t turn on while you’re draining or syphoning, but also you can walk away if you need to without fear that it will overflow. If you decide you need/want hot water, you could add a propane powered, on-demand hot water heater. They’re often used for camp showers, etc. and are very reasonable in price. No electrical wiring required, only minor plumbing beyond what you’ve done already. You won’t get boiling water, but you could def get enough to mix in your line to get to 78° - 80°. It could hang on the outside of your building with the propane cylinder below. You’d only need to drain/pull it inside prior to any winter freezes.
I have 6 tanks only 1 of them has been up for over a year and has not needed any water changes. That tank has a deep sand substrate with organic potting soil underneath. I have lots of plants and have a sun rise sun set nicrew so it’s off 12am-6am. All my other tanks have sand 2inches and plants but some are slightly over stocked including a colony guppy tank those need either weekly or monthly. Idk why the deep sand and potting soil works but no nitrites no ammonia and 25ppm nitrates for over a year.
Once used by the plants, the mulm becomes inert. It's not harmful to the fish. It's brown just like the fancy aquasoil that people pay a lot of money to get.
Older lady with bad arthritis, needing recommendations of tank vacuums? One very large goldfish in 20 gallon tank so tons of mome. Most vacs are to large for 20 gal.. Have even resorted to baster to fit in 10 gal tanks. I’m lost on how to more easily clean all my tanks, need electric kind!?🤷🏼♀️🤷🏼♀️🤷🏼♀️
@@catfishm.1361 If buckets are an issue, I’d get a Python water changer. I don’t mean to be that guy, but a 20 is too small for a large goldfish and you probably should be doing 50% WCs at least twice a week for a large goldfish in a 20. A larger tank would make life easier for you and better for the fish, just saying.
Topping off evaporation with tap water continuously will cause issues eventually. When water evaporates it leaves behind ca/mg, just like in a saltwater tank salt is left behind. When you top up a saltwater tank you top up with fresh water.
Whatever I do to plants in my tanks they seem to just melt and die and, I have plant substrate, tried different lighting levels, different temperatures, nothing works. I throw some hornwort into the outside pond that only has a solar air stone and some goldfish and it overgrows, kills the algea and clears the tank water, and the substrate is the same.
Sometimes plants have to stabilize to start growing but as you have verified everything grows better with natural sunlight even fish become more robust
How long do you leave them in the tank after they melt? Most plants will melt then come back after a week or so in my experience. Especially if they're emersed grown (which most plants you buy are)
Uh..Are you hiding a dinosaur? But for real nice vid and advice. Also have you thought about adding a water container to fill up and fill, then use that for tank refills? Might help the water not be so different from the outside and you can pretreat
Well 3 months after I got my 125 I told myself I can’t be doing this every week. Don’t call me lazy I would say I am pretty smart. I ran a water line straight to my tank and a drain spout every is smart connected Now I just open an app and let it drain for 7 minutes and filled it
The reason to do regular water changes isn't just to fix bad parameters. The main reason to do regular water changes is to keep the water stable so that the parameters never get bad in the first place. And there are other benefits to doing water changes besides diluting nitrates. Water charges reduce TDS, replenish trace minerals and clear out pheromones and other semiochemicals.
Start off with lots of healthy plants and they can help you do a lot less water changes. And yep, every tank and/or pond is different and you need to learn to read each one and do what is needed.
never really see a whole lot in your tanks in terms of microfauna, and macrofauna. certainly not saying your tanks look bad, but id think it be cool if you started taking a more natural ecosystem approach to your setups. not trying to name drop any channels but theres a feller names philip something and his setups certainly do work with very minimal effort and a father something fish that discusses the foodwed in some noice detail. also in terms of water changes my waters crystal clear and smells like a lake if that makes sense, I havent done water changes in years and in the few tanks I own everything is flourishing
Algae is not caused by excess nutrients. There is always enough nutrients for algae. You need non-limiting nutrients for healthy growth of plants, which as presented here would be triggering algae, yet tanks dosing excess nutrients usually have no algae. So much else wrong with this video as well.
So not caused but triggered by? Those are synonymous statements - and a blanket statement that tanks which overdose nutrients don’t have algae is just flat wrong - and there’s a lot more that would be wrong with that statement if we dissected it a bit further. No need to swing your weight around this channel with whatever you think you know - he knows what he’s doing, and he doesn’t just throw out PetSmart brochure information to the masses.
@@s2kap01 Look up EI dosing. I’m not trying to throw any weight around, but information. I follow the science and logic. It’s been proven. Check my other post for the analogy that shows how it makes no sense to say nutrients cause algae.
@@firstclassfish01 it is both scientifically accepted and correct to say that excess nutrients CAUSE algae. Algal blooms are a perfect, albeit extreme, example of this. There’s nothing illogical about the statement, nor unscientific. If we’re just playing semantics between your word trigger, and his word cause, cause is a synonym of trigger. There’s really nothing further to look into here.
@@s2kap01 👍🏻 carry on, I can only help someone actually interested in learning rather than rejecting ideas different than they’re already pre-conceived notions. It also has nothing to do with semantics. Nutrients, aside from ammonia are not a an issue for creating algae in well-planted tanks and nature alike. Peace
You should get one if those movable elbow connections for the fish tank drainer you made. In theory if you can position it then you could run it out a window out to a garden bed. Especially in nicer months. They would get watered and “fish emulsion” all at once. Fantastic fertilizer.
Water change days = houseplant watering/fertilization days
Nice 😎😎
LEGIT. That's a big one I'm glad you mentioned. I bought the sample pack to start my fish off and when I ran out picked up something from the local pet store. It was pretty night-and-day when i switched over to the store-bought food because almost immediately it started breaking down into a muck that found its way to the glass and substrate. When I was using the Legit food it just seemed to break down smaller without turning to slime, but usually got eaten at some point along the way. So yeah, I'm due for a reorder of bottom feeder pellets!
Heck ya Corey! 🫡🤠🤠🤠
I've actually started my whole family on legit fish food my kids have doubled in size !!! LEGITNESSS OF IT ALL!!!
13:40 Screen: just use a sponge filter cover as it will slip right over the pipe.
Glue? If you don't glue, it will eventually lose the siphon.
To start siphon: Put hose up to bottom of pipe in the sink, turn on water and fill up pipe until you see water flow into tank. Remove hose and you have water leaving tank.
Get a big group of corydora's for the tank
seconding the corys!
I use a giant prefilter sponge I got on Amazon to cover the intake of my siphon. Works a treat. Any cleanup I need to do I use a 1/4" tube to suck stuff up.
I really wanna try the father fish method I'm curious been in hobby for 30 years only discovered him last year. He has tanks that have been set up for 23 years all hes ever done was top evaporation off and the fish thrive whole ecosystem pretty cool
I added a bit of aquasoil above the sand - sandwich method - faster start, I am super happy.
Never change my water. Just add new water. Use a simple filter system with only pillow stuffing. Live plants are a must . Simple grow lights. Been doing it for years.
Where did you get those tree stumps in the tank?
"Thebiodude" dot com?
If you put a foot valve on the end of the suction tube, you could stroke it up and down to prime. Most foot valves have a built in screen.
I genuinely liked this video.
More rummynose!
I don't do any water changes in my 100 gallon, my cherry shrimp breeding tanks or my dwarf frog tank. They're a mixed/filtered walstad method and fully planted. Peramiters are spot on. 👌
My route is always filter the water before changing the water. Ofc, in emergencies, the rule is not applied. But in general I tend to use healthy amount of surfaces for bacteria to grow, be it sand/gravel, wood/porous stone or via custom filters. And a lot of plants!
As for additions to the tank, yeah, more schooling fish. 🙂👍
You can get plastic strainer cones that slip fit right into pvc adapters. That's what i use, and the siphon doesn't affect fish regardless of size. In fact, I use this method of draining so that i can drain much faster through large diameter vinyl hose right into my yard. Drains even large tanks very quickly, and then i plug a garden hose adapted with a barb fitting right into the open end of the drain hose to refill very quickly as well. You can change large tanks in less than 5 minutes this way. And i usually give the glass a quick cleaning during that process. It is very time efficient if you have lots of bigger tanks or a fish room because you can then move it to the next tank, unplug the garden hose from the drain hose, and the siphon begins again automatically.
For the refill portion, maybe plumb in a float valve in the back corner with an additional valve that you turn on/off. That way doesn’t turn on while you’re draining or syphoning, but also you can walk away if you need to without fear that it will overflow.
If you decide you need/want hot water, you could add a propane powered, on-demand hot water heater. They’re often used for camp showers, etc. and are very reasonable in price. No electrical wiring required, only minor plumbing beyond what you’ve done already. You won’t get boiling water, but you could def get enough to mix in your line to get to 78° - 80°.
It could hang on the outside of your building with the propane cylinder below. You’d only need to drain/pull it inside prior to any winter freezes.
You can pre fill the drain pipe, no need for manual suction.
Wouldn't have the mulm issues if the modern aquarium industry people would take the time to learn about all the benefits of undergravel filters.
Another great video. Thank you.
What filter are you using please?
Hi good video, if my water evaporated can i add more more water with water conditioner with no water change?
I have 6 tanks only 1 of them has been up for over a year and has not needed any water changes. That tank has a deep sand substrate with organic potting soil underneath. I have lots of plants and have a sun rise sun set nicrew so it’s off 12am-6am. All my other tanks have sand 2inches and plants but some are slightly over stocked including a colony guppy tank those need either weekly or monthly. Idk why the deep sand and potting soil works but no nitrites no ammonia and 25ppm nitrates for over a year.
Not sure if you touched on it. I think you need to add an addendum about bio load for those who are new.
For your fishroom tanks try adding more houseplants in them.
What are the measurements of the tank??
I don’t like doing my WCs but I like tanks that require lots of maintenance, so I do 80% on all of my tanks every Saturday
Excuse me, sir. Is that a dinosaur under that tarp? 😂🤣😂🤣😂
Maybe.... 🤷♂️🤠🤠
Congo Tetras or Phoenix Tetras would look rad in there
More Rummy Nose Tetra is always the right answer.😊
Corys! they might help with your mulm problem as well
I don’t mind changing water. It’s gravel vacuuming I hate.
Then don't do it, it's all food for the plants and bacteria as long as you have a deep substrate so you don't have to fertilize
I haven’t gravel vac in a decade
Once used by the plants, the mulm becomes inert. It's not harmful to the fish. It's brown just like the fancy aquasoil that people pay a lot of money to get.
Older lady with bad arthritis, needing recommendations of tank vacuums? One very large goldfish in 20 gallon tank so tons of mome. Most vacs are to large for 20 gal.. Have even resorted to baster to fit in 10 gal tanks. I’m lost on how to more easily clean all my tanks, need electric kind!?🤷🏼♀️🤷🏼♀️🤷🏼♀️
@@catfishm.1361 If buckets are an issue, I’d get a Python water changer. I don’t mean to be that guy, but a 20 is too small for a large goldfish and you probably should be doing 50% WCs at least twice a week for a large goldfish in a 20. A larger tank would make life easier for you and better for the fish, just saying.
Yes, more rummy's!
I love this video and what camera do you use?
Thanks! I use the dji osmo pocket 2!
@AQUAPROS thank you again I love your products and videos you have helped a lot
Topping off evaporation with tap water continuously will cause issues eventually. When water evaporates it leaves behind ca/mg, just like in a saltwater tank salt is left behind. When you top up a saltwater tank you top up with fresh water.
Whatever I do to plants in my tanks they seem to just melt and die and, I have plant substrate, tried different lighting levels, different temperatures, nothing works. I throw some hornwort into the outside pond that only has a solar air stone and some goldfish and it overgrows, kills the algea and clears the tank water, and the substrate is the same.
Sometimes plants have to stabilize to start growing but as you have verified everything grows better with natural sunlight even fish become more robust
How long do you leave them in the tank after they melt? Most plants will melt then come back after a week or so in my experience. Especially if they're emersed grown (which most plants you buy are)
Uh..Are you hiding a dinosaur? But for real nice vid and advice. Also have you thought about adding a water container to fill up and fill, then use that for tank refills? Might help the water not be so different from the outside and you can pretreat
I just got some legit bottom feeder food. Amazing! But 2 of my glass cats went adter it and choked😅
Oh… that sink scene tho lol. Good advice tho
put some angels and discus in there!
Add more rainbows, but different kind!?
What substrate are you using in that aquarium?
Uns contosoil, brown small type
There's a dinosaur hiding in your yard 😱
add some blue acara
What causes bullet proof tanks to get cold tank syndrome?😊
No way I am putting my mouth near any aquarium water, I use an inline manual pump to prime my water change pipes!
👍🏻👍🏻
So much still hate on Father Fish 🤷🤦
Well 3 months after I got my 125 I told myself I can’t be doing this every week.
Don’t call me lazy I would say I am pretty smart.
I ran a water line straight to my tank and a drain spout every is smart connected
Now I just open an app and let it drain for 7 minutes and filled it
Thats dope 😎
The reason to do regular water changes isn't just to fix bad parameters. The main reason to do regular water changes is to keep the water stable so that the parameters never get bad in the first place.
And there are other benefits to doing water changes besides diluting nitrates. Water charges reduce TDS, replenish trace minerals and clear out pheromones and other semiochemicals.
more rummy's less mulm!
Legit fish food is always ‘sold out’ 🤷🏼♂️
Start off with lots of healthy plants and they can help you do a lot less water changes. And yep, every tank and/or pond is different and you need to learn to read each one and do what is needed.
never really see a whole lot in your tanks in terms of microfauna, and macrofauna. certainly not saying your tanks look bad, but id think it be cool if you started taking a more natural ecosystem approach to your setups. not trying to name drop any channels but theres a feller names philip something and his setups certainly do work with very minimal effort and a father something fish that discusses the foodwed in some noice detail. also in terms of water changes my waters crystal clear and smells like a lake if that makes sense, I havent done water changes in years and in the few tanks I own everything is flourishing
add a prefilter to the end problem solved
I’m sorry….but did I see a raptor?
Water changes are not just about nutrient levels. Dissolved organics would be the main issue.
Eveybody gives a different opinion Im new at this and so frustrated
1st lol have a good day everyone
Algae is not caused by excess nutrients. There is always enough nutrients for algae. You need non-limiting nutrients for healthy growth of plants, which as presented here would be triggering algae, yet tanks dosing excess nutrients usually have no algae. So much else wrong with this video as well.
So not caused but triggered by? Those are synonymous statements - and a blanket statement that tanks which overdose nutrients don’t have algae is just flat wrong - and there’s a lot more that would be wrong with that statement if we dissected it a bit further. No need to swing your weight around this channel with whatever you think you know - he knows what he’s doing, and he doesn’t just throw out PetSmart brochure information to the masses.
@@s2kap01💯
@@s2kap01 Look up EI dosing. I’m not trying to throw any weight around, but information. I follow the science and logic. It’s been proven. Check my other post for the analogy that shows how it makes no sense to say nutrients cause algae.
@@firstclassfish01 it is both scientifically accepted and correct to say that excess nutrients CAUSE algae. Algal blooms are a perfect, albeit extreme, example of this. There’s nothing illogical about the statement, nor unscientific. If we’re just playing semantics between your word trigger, and his word cause, cause is a synonym of trigger. There’s really nothing further to look into here.
@@s2kap01 👍🏻 carry on, I can only help someone actually interested in learning rather than rejecting ideas different than they’re already pre-conceived notions. It also has nothing to do with semantics. Nutrients, aside from ammonia are not a an issue for creating algae in well-planted tanks and nature alike. Peace