Dealing with Bad Sprue Gates on Model Kits
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- Hobbyboss' B-Team clearly designed and tooled this ZLC-2000 kit, but we can take this as an opportunity to explore some techniques for sanding sprue gates in awkward places.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Follow me on Instagram:
/ panzermeister36
My Facebook Page:
/ panzermeister36
Support me and my videos on Patreon!
/ panzermeister36
The tank-themed cutting mat is by Tankraft:
tankraft.com/
Modular workbench storage system is by HobbyZone:
www.hobbyzone.pl/
Listen to the Plastic Model Mojo Podcast while you build:
www.plasticmod...
DISCLAIMER: I am not paid to promote any specific products or brands; I just use the products I find work best for me through my experiences. There is no reason for me to promote a bad product, as then I would not enjoy using it, not like the result on my model, and not be proud of publicizing it in a video. There's also no point in me doing this to keep up relations with a company if the only benefit would be getting more of the same products that I didn't like. I have not used every product out there, but from what I have used, I keep using the products I like, and that's why I use them in my videos. You can use whatever other products you would like to and you can feel that they are better - that is your opinion, and is perfectly fine by me, thus I hope that feeling is reciprocated.
Today's video is nothing groundbreaking; rather we are looking at some tips I have aimed at newer modelers. If you have any tips on this topic, I would love to hear them in the comments section!
I love Takom kits but find their sprue gates are quite a challenge. I do enjoy using the Flexi file (like a bow) for rounded parts, especially barrels .Very helpful video Evan.
Hello i use jeweler files as well. I have a set of six and set 12 files. The smaller set are german made and old than me, im 64yo. Love my files, round, oval and flat use almost exclusively but i do use variouse grits of sanding sponges and sand paper. One i was thinking about while watching your video. Is nice quality pair of cutters. For years i just used a cheap pair of cutters. After watching some video of gundam builds i bought a pair of tamiya cutters these are double bladed but i also got for christmas a pair of single blade cutters. Ive seen guys cut a part of the spur with quality cutters, the cut is so clean with no nub from the spur gate only a little dofference in color of the plastic. Its amazing what some can do assembling and painting of scale models.
My grandfather was a tool and die maker for Remington Arms in the early 20th Century. I have dozens of his little files he used back in the day. Not only are they great for model making, they’re a wonderful remembrance of him.
@georgelush1998
That's cool. I have a leather bomber type jacket that says Remington arms and the log, UT embodied. I bought back in the mid 80's, don't remember where. Never seen another like it.
Some good tips! 👍 I use all kinds of tools for sanding, both purchased and hand made. For tiny parts like the grab handles, I'll wedge them between 2 small pieces of wood so that only the sprue gate is showing. Then simply file until almost flush and finish off with a small file. 👍
Good tips Panzermeister.
As has been mentioned below, a good pair of single cutting blade snips is highly recommended.
Re plastic grab handles: if at all possible I will glue them in place and then gently clean up the sprue gate. Much easier to hold the hull/turret structure than the handle by itself. As mentioned in the video, sand along the handle not across it. If they have bad mold parting seams I just make new wire ones.
Very useful tips. I always tend to go a little too far on removal efforts and end up with divots or low spots. Now I have a better idea how to avoid that.
well done vid with good tips, I like building on trays too and using files for shaping. I have a tiny set for small parts and also got this crazy chisel scraper called "night cutter" from Japan. Those guys have a good sense of humor it turns out. Cheers
Thank you for the tips! I'll look into those tools for small parts.
That tray is a good idea.
They're from IKEA. Very useful for keeping track of the parts for a project if you're like me and always building 3 kits at once!
Great video Evan. Takom designers take particular delight in crappy sprue gear locations, like in the middle of drive sprocket teeth.
And Takom also loves huge thick gates as well. Two or three times the diameter of those on a RFM or Dragon kit.
@@Panzermeister36 Like you said in the video, makes you wonder if they ever built a model before!
I have found the “Flex-I-File” works well on convex surfaces like gun barrels.
I will have to get some of those or the Infini Sanding Sticks I keep hearing about.
Always enjoyable to watch you work Evan ! Glad you are still making models and videos .
Glad you like them! I enjoy making these videos so they will keep coming 😀
Hey panzer Meister, awesome vid! I use a razor saw on small and fragile parts to remove from sprue, cuts down on the stress to the part. Happy modelling everyone!
Great idea! That is a good way to avoid stressing the part. I will try that next time.
Superb, this is exactly how I deal with this sort of mode kit asembling circumstance. 👍✌️
Great to hear! Thank you
I would love it if model companies would actually take the time to build up a pre production run kit and iron out all the issues before flooding the market. I have never once in my lifetime of building models ever seen a company say "Oops sorry about that, we'll fix it."
It is incredibly rare to have a model corrected like that. Usually it is just wrong and we have to deal with it... And there's people out there who know how it should have been made properly who will help for free. Companies just don't ask for feedback.
Now some exceptions are the Kanonenjagdpanzer from Das Werk and the Leclerc 21 from Tiger-Model. These were both essentially held up upon initial announcement to correct issues and now they are great!
its amazing how many people use their finger as a back-stop for a blade. top show.
I haven’t sliced myself to ribbons yet. The finger never fails as the perfect backstop.
Better than using your dick.
My finger is squishy so it just absorbs the blade and doesn't get cut. I do not use much force when cutting the plastic and a fresh blade won't slip beyond my control.
I sometimes find it easier to sand down the grab handles after gluing in place.
Yes I do that too sometimes. But it can be hard to remove the seam lines from the underside then. I guess I should do it in stages.
Always sand or file diagonally across the parts , as long as you keep file or sanding material flat to the part , it can not help but follow the shape of the piece. Barrels , boxes, figure seams , it works .. try it . I can do two part barrels with out bothering to look at it hardly , watching youtube etc . Hard to go wrong . M
Thanks for the video Panz.36. Even with the disturbing opening of the roadwheel almost being eaten by the floor/carpet or worst-case scenario, my shirt.🙄
I notice tamiya is now putting then on edge or inside now...some firms do too...its a pain when on a detail...i do same as you use sharp blade as close as possible sand then recut and add some cement to tidy up
I use all your techniques, although i use the knife and carve away more parts of the sprue generally and just finish with a file or sanding stick. I also use two Tamiya flat chisels (1mm and 2mm I think) a fair bit. There is only one difference: for the technique you show on the turret weld seam, i use a wide radius rounded knife blade (No.20) instead of a flat to avoid scratching the turret face.
Japanese high carbon blades, you have good taste.
B team-boo!
You could use a chisel blade also.
That's another good option for carving out that part of the gate along the armour panel.
@@Panzermeister36 yep
Gates right on the ends of the teeth of Sherman drive sprockets make me say WHY?! Same thing with putting them right on the rim of WW2 German helmets. I for sure don't think some of these people that create the tooling have ever built a kit, or at least very few.
Panzermeister, I watch a lot of Your videos, which I find immensely helpful in my modeling endeavors. Can You PLEASE do a video on how to remove the printed 3d resin parts from the sprue gates? Especially those tiny tool clamps, which I have mangled and utterly destroyed in my attempts to remove them.
You need a sharp blade for sure. I'll cut the mounts under the handle first, as it is the most fragile part. Then I'll do the mounts under the base of the clamp. I use the MJ Miniatures clamps.
@@Panzermeister36 Thank You!! I will try this method, and the MJ Miniatures clamps!!!
@Weld24_CosmicKat I believe I've covered this in a video last year about improving detail on my Pz III.
@@Panzermeister36 I will look for that video, Thank You!
I prefer a file for the initial clean up then finish with a sanding sponge. I have many different files but the one I really like and use almost always, is the flat one in Tamiya’s basic file set. Glass files don’t seem to work for me. Number one choice for me, a file. Thanks for the tips……
Think before you chop is the only thing I’d add. Working on this crappy Miniart kit and with the bad placed fret points and flash, you might be cutting into or off a part of the part. And dooooont cut too close to the actual part unless you know the plastic happens to be just right, or you will inevitably get one of the indentations we all hate😂
@Panzermeister36 in the ( I Don't Recommend the Hobbyboss ZSD-89 APC in 1:35 Scale: Post-Build Review (ZBD-89 modification) :
This video is for the 3 people who care about Chinese armour, I don't know who cares about it.
also @Panzermeister36 : Builds another Chinese IFV😂😂
Btw, I am one of those three people 🙋♂
You bought a Chicom Hobby Boss kit, nothing stress-free about them.
I've built a number of Hobbyboss kits and half of them were pretty good, and the other half were like this. Hence the B-Team joke I made.
This kit must be ancient just by looking at the box art. Most kit these day don't mould it that way.
I use single edge razor blades they are a Wunderwaffe
That is something that I have never considered before.
Next up: how to eat and grind through the Trojan walls which Takom's sprue gates are
I'm glad I'm not the only one who has noticed that on Takom kits.
This is a good and easy tutorial. Actually, it's a problem we often have to face. It also might be easy to fix the weld seam, but I am so sad the loss of beautiful armor surfaces by sprue gates. I'd like to know if there is something better to do about this. 😀