THANK-YOU! This video along with another one on RUclips allowed me to fix my opener! On the "other" board, there were visible cracks on one of the solder joints. I never soldered before but I bought a kit and was able to re-solder the joint. It FIXED my garage opener that would intermittently stop while opening or closing. This video helped so much on my FIX!!! AMAZING!
I am so glad this helped you. Investing in a good soldering kit will save you a lot in the long run. I fixed so many things in my house just by soldering it right.
I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Thanks a million, This video was a great help as I had to use magnifying glass to see broken solder. I added more solder and fixed the problem. Amazing, and many more thanks.
I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Perfection my friend. Looking at the Power Processor was key to discovery of absolute cracked around post cold solder. I had to buy a quality solder gone at lowes. Heated up contact point added some electronic solder around all sealed bright and shiny then checked a couple more posts with a heat touch and small addition of solder. Garage door works like brand new up and down ... beautiful for a $40. soldering gun. I saved $400.00 Thanks.
So happy for you! I felt the same way when I fixed it and it is still working. And… you can use that solder in many future projects. I transformed many toys that used batteries with a power adapter using the solder.
I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Other failure points on these logic boards are defective electrolytic capacitors. My Liftmaster remote would not work with the opener lights on. I chose to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and now all is well.
Thank you for this information and I am glad you solved your problem. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Sebastian, that was perhaps caused by mechanical vibration. Same thing occurred to my furnace control board that cracked the solder on the relay posts.
I agree with you. That door vibrates often. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
My 2014 1/2 hp Craftsman chain drive sensors were turning on and off intermittently. the door wouldn't close all the way, and would reverse back to open a couple inches from closing. I re-soldered the six points on the logic board that connect the sensors and the wall control and cut and re-spliced the wires leading to the sensors and the wall unit. It seems to have worked. But...now the sensor lights are only on when the door is being operated, not all the time. With the door closed, if I turn just the light on using the wall control, the sensors light up. When I turn the light off using the wall control, the sensor lights turn off. The sensor lights are not on all the time. They are on when the door is being operated. Did I screw something up? Any thoughts appreciated.
I am glad I was able to help you. Regarding the light on the sensors, that depends on the sensors you have. I have two garage doors, and one of them do you have the lights on when the door is closed, but the other door does not because I replaced those sensors and they don’t come with a light. I say if you tested those sensors when the door is coming down and it reopens the door when you interrupt then, you should be good.
Awesome video! I am having the same issue with my craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener. It's about 18yrs old but it should still work. Btw*** Anybody know how to bypass the safety sensors? Can i just bridge the connection on the back of the unit where the wires go to each sensor?
I am so glad it helped you. I agree, mine is that old as well and it is still running without any issues. Why do you want to bypass those sensors? Are they failing? I remember changing those sensors in the past as well. Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
I want to bypass the sensors for troubleshooting purposes. But in the time since I last commented here, I found out that they cannot truly be bypassed. Basically, all one can do is take both sensors and tape them together (facing each other) and set them on top of the garage door opener. So they are still connected by definition, but done so in a fashion that they will not be an issue of any kind. And sure, I will subscribe. Happy to support! BTW, I am not having any luck with the logic board. When I plug my unit in to the power outlet, it clicks rapidly and the light bulb flashes rapidly and continously. I checked the logic board for signs of burning and soldering issues- can see or find anything indicating any physical issues.
@@e.manske7596 Thanks for subscribing. Usually the number of times the light flickers will tell you the type of issue according to your manual but you said it is constantly doing it. I would lean on the side of the sensors and cabling to them. I would buy new sensors in Amazon and try them. Also use new short wiring to test if damaged wiring is the culprit.
Cool. I will certainly get some new wires(they are very old) and test the sensors the way you describe. And I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
Use a voltmeter to try to determine where they problem is. Are you saying you don't have power (electricity) at the power outlet where the garage opener is plugged. Then the issue is with the power breaker like it was suggested. When I was diagnosing mine, I realized that if the light was flickering then the whole system (garage opener) was loosing power since the light bulb works with 110V straight from the power outlet. So something at the very beginning of the garage opener was causing the issue. And it was a cold solder on the input board, the one that takes 110V and distributes power to the rest. Hope this helps.
@@300zxdriver This happened to me as well. Open the door so there should be power on the light socket. Then remove the bulb and be careful while testing with a voltmeter for 110V on the socket by touching the very bottom and one side. If you get 110V, it means power is fine and most likely the bulb is not touching the connection at the bottom. To fix that, disconnect power to the garage opener and try to bend the bottom connection of the bulb socket upwards a little bit. Check again with the bulb and let me know.
Up to the 4:20 mark, the entire video is quite boring as there are many videos showing all these same details for these garage door openers. You very clearly discover the broken solder joint at 4:27. This would be very difficult to catch with the naked eye. Very satisfying to find the root cause of a problem because THEN you know what needs to be done to fix. .
@@taxicamel Thank you! This was my first video in RUclips and I was learning how to record and load them into the tool. I am so glad it helped you. Please consider subscribing to my channel or a $thanks. It will help me on doing more videos like this. I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
THANK-YOU! This video along with another one on RUclips allowed me to fix my opener! On the "other" board, there were visible cracks on one of the solder joints. I never soldered before but I bought a kit and was able to re-solder the joint.
It FIXED my garage opener that would intermittently stop while opening or closing. This video helped so much on my FIX!!! AMAZING!
I am so glad this helped you. Investing in a good soldering kit will save you a lot in the long run. I fixed so many things in my house just by soldering it right.
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Thanks a million, This video was a great help as I had to use magnifying glass to see broken solder. I added more solder and fixed the problem. Amazing, and many more thanks.
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Thanks for the vid. Pulled mine apart and found a bad solder joint on the back side of the tan board. Resoldered and working again within 15 minutes
Glad to hear. Mine has been working fine since this repair
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
I may have the same problem as yours. I'll check mine tomorrow. Thank you for sharing.
Did you end up fixing it?
@@gotitdone No. I ended up buying a new garage door opener. A Chamberlain for less than $300.
Perfection my friend. Looking at the Power Processor was key to discovery of absolute cracked around post cold solder. I had to buy a quality solder gone at lowes. Heated up contact point added some electronic solder around all sealed bright and shiny then checked a couple more posts with a heat touch and small addition of solder. Garage door works like brand new up and down ... beautiful for a $40. soldering gun. I saved $400.00 Thanks.
So happy for you! I felt the same way when I fixed it and it is still working. And… you can use that solder in many future projects. I transformed many toys that used batteries with a power adapter using the solder.
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Other failure points on these logic boards are defective electrolytic capacitors. My Liftmaster remote would not work with the opener lights on. I chose to replace all the electrolytic capacitors on the logic board and now all is well.
Thank you for this information and I am glad you solved your problem.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Thank you so much. This is very helpful and my exact problem! Off to practice my soldering.
You are welcome!
Sebastian, that was perhaps caused by mechanical vibration. Same thing occurred to my furnace control board that cracked the solder on the relay posts.
I agree with you. That door vibrates often.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
Thanks! Now I know what to look for!
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
My 2014 1/2 hp Craftsman chain drive sensors were turning on and off intermittently. the door wouldn't close all the way, and would reverse back to open a couple inches from closing. I re-soldered the six points on the logic board that connect the sensors and the wall control and cut and re-spliced the wires leading to the sensors and the wall unit. It seems to have worked. But...now the sensor lights are only on when the door is being operated, not all the time. With the door closed, if I turn just the light on using the wall control, the sensors light up. When I turn the light off using the wall control, the sensor lights turn off. The sensor lights are not on all the time. They are on when the door is being operated. Did I screw something up? Any thoughts appreciated.
I am glad I was able to help you.
Regarding the light on the sensors, that depends on the sensors you have. I have two garage doors, and one of them do you have the lights on when the door is closed, but the other door does not because I replaced those sensors and they don’t come with a light.
I say if you tested those sensors when the door is coming down and it reopens the door when you interrupt then, you should be good.
Awesome video! I am having the same issue with my craftsman 1/2 hp garage door opener. It's about 18yrs old but it should still work.
Btw*** Anybody know how to bypass the safety sensors? Can i just bridge the connection on the back of the unit where the wires go to each sensor?
I am so glad it helped you.
I agree, mine is that old as well and it is still running without any issues.
Why do you want to bypass those sensors? Are they failing? I remember changing those sensors in the past as well.
Please consider subscribing to my channel. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.
I want to bypass the sensors for troubleshooting purposes. But in the time since I last commented here, I found out that they cannot truly be bypassed. Basically, all one can do is take both sensors and tape them together (facing each other) and set them on top of the garage door opener. So they are still connected by definition, but done so in a fashion that they will not be an issue of any kind. And sure, I will subscribe. Happy to support!
BTW, I am not having any luck with the logic board. When I plug my unit in to the power outlet, it clicks rapidly and the light bulb flashes rapidly and continously. I checked the logic board for signs of burning and soldering issues- can see or find anything indicating any physical issues.
@@e.manske7596 Thanks for subscribing.
Usually the number of times the light flickers will tell you the type of issue according to your manual but you said it is constantly doing it.
I would lean on the side of the sensors and cabling to them. I would buy new sensors in Amazon and try them. Also use new short wiring to test if damaged wiring is the culprit.
Cool. I will certainly get some new wires(they are very old) and test the sensors the way you describe. And I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
Did you take pictures of the board??? I would love to see what chips they used on the circuit board for these recievers.
Thks you very much! Can you put subtitles in your videos, and Spanish translation also could be helpful. Thks in advance.
You can click on the gear icon, select subtitles and then "auto-translate" to spanish. Hope this helps....
The lights don’t work on mine, no power at the sockets. Getting ready to change circuit board. Wish I knew which solder connections to look at.
check the brakers at the power panel.
Use a voltmeter to try to determine where they problem is. Are you saying you don't have power (electricity) at the power outlet where the garage opener is plugged. Then the issue is with the power breaker like it was suggested.
When I was diagnosing mine, I realized that if the light was flickering then the whole system (garage opener) was loosing power since the light bulb works with 110V straight from the power outlet. So something at the very beginning of the garage opener was causing the issue. And it was a cold solder on the input board, the one that takes 110V and distributes power to the rest. Hope this helps.
@@gotitdone Thanks I have power, the opener works. But no lights.
@@300zxdriver This happened to me as well. Open the door so there should be power on the light socket. Then remove the bulb and be careful while testing with a voltmeter for 110V on the socket by touching the very bottom and one side. If you get 110V, it means power is fine and most likely the bulb is not touching the connection at the bottom.
To fix that, disconnect power to the garage opener and try to bend the bottom connection of the bulb socket upwards a little bit. Check again with the bulb and let me know.
@@gotitdone I didn’t have power to the socket.
Up to the 4:20 mark, the entire video is quite boring as there are many videos showing all these same details for these garage door openers. You very clearly discover the broken solder joint at 4:27. This would be very difficult to catch with the naked eye. Very satisfying to find the root cause of a problem because THEN you know what needs to be done to fix.
.
@@taxicamel Thank you! This was my first video in RUclips and I was learning how to record and load them into the tool.
I am so glad it helped you.
Please consider subscribing to my channel or a $thanks. It will help me on doing more videos like this.
I am regularly fixing things around the house and adding videos about it.