To improve magnetic force, alternate the magnets (so long as the distance between opposite poles is significantly larger than the distance between the magnets and the surface to stick to) and put a ferritic plate behind all the magnets. This joins the flux lines on the back side, increasing the strength of the flux lines on the front. I did this for a magnetic project and it worked excellently, but it did require two pieces to clamp together for assembly, and it was a bit of a pain to do so without magnets flipping everywhere. Are you using a brass or stainless nozzle? I imagine carbon steel nozzles could pose a problem when embedding magnets into a print. Though maybe the spring steel build plate helps.
Also minimise the distance between the magnets and the surface as much as possible. A rubberised base would increase friction and do more to reduce slippage than increasing the number of magnets. Rectangular magnets magnets would be more efficient as well. Probably not enough space to set up Halbach arrays.
Magnetic field lines can also be focused on a particular side (without a ferrite core) when setting the magnets as a Halbach array, which increases the flux density on that side hence improves the magnetic force. - EDIT: Just saw that there is a video about the Halbach array on this channel! Wonderful :)
god those are cool, if you get some double sided tape and rubber or soft tpu, and attach them to the bottom of the feet , you could have additional traction. if you put them on the bottom of the body, it'll also act as a surface protector. im gonna see if there's a bluetooth speaker or similar that would fit inside OOOO or, maybe an NVME housing. and a magnetic sheet on a laptop lid. most impractical but cool housing ever. and you'll feel like a zeonic front sabatour every time you use your nvme. not sure if laptops are still bothered by magnets though
The old high temp / smooth PEI plate of bambu isn't great in terms of bed adhesion unfortunately. The textured plate is great but .. textured, so not always what you want. Recently, however, Bambu has brought out a new "cool plate super tack" built plate and it's pretty insane in terms of bed adhesion. I would totally recommend trying it out if you have issues with models like these. Very cool project as well btw :)
The way you labeled the magnets would cause great confusion in my country hahaha! (We say 'Noord' and 'Zuid' for North and South, can you spot the issue?). Anyway, I always only label one side anyway so it's not a real issue. I just thought it was funny.
😳 Thanks for letting us know! We'll keep that in mind for next time. We can see how labeling an isometric projection in this way could be confusing and possibly misleading. We struggled a bit with the colors, too. Many diagrams use Red for North and Blue for South, but many polarity detectors (especially the more affordable ones) only have red and green lights.
Subscribed, love the simple narration and no annoying over the top editing etc. What laser and press were used for this project? I used to have a laserpecker but it always had trouble properly engraving 3D printed parts.
Incredible work, as usual. Your, is one of my favorite channel. I wish I had people like you in my "Bambulab functional 3d printing" group. I'll share your video.
❗️😉👍🏼...we've actually been experimenting again with tweaks to the lid ring design that includes some notches. It's a direction we ended up moving away from mid-process, in part because we were trying to reduce some variables because we were still working out magnet config issues at the time. The good news is that the pod design is entirely serviceable, so if we get to a good place with an alternate ring design, we can just issue an update and people can print the new one and swap it out!
Another impressive project. It’s really amazing how a laser engraving can make a 3d print look that much more refined. I recall you have a $2000 Xtool? Would a $300 engraver be able to do the same?
@@batchresearchlab IPA wipe the plate and bump it up a few degrees. You're really just making unnecessary post work for yourself. That high temp plate with some glue stick can keep an ABS rectangular box down at the corners without a brim.
Not sure what you mean? Did you watch the video? It’s literally useful. Small parts storage. A Gunpla fan might seriously love to have a few of these to keep small extra parts in for their hobby. A cyberpunk lover may use it for desk/office accessories. I could go on. We also love the sci-fi, 80s/90s aesthetic and props, and leaned into that instead of a typical simple jar or other design that’s been done over and over. In addition, this process is a learning journey for us as we enhance our CAD, materials and process experience. We’re doing that by designing and building things we enjoy, but that could also be useful. It’s literally part of our values. We then share that with other folks who might be interested. If that part of it doesn’t bring you any value, might not be the right content for you! Feel free to keep scrolling until you find a bridge.
Incorporating a **soft** TPU pad onto the 'snap out feet' might help it to stick with more weight inside - better traction when stuck on a vertical surface. Or alternately, a slight recess in the feet where you could stick silicon 'feet' for the same effect.
@@batchresearchlab Perhaps there are alternatives to TPU, it sadly lacks the "stickiness" of rubber... something I recently encountered while making lids and sieve inserts for glass spice bottles. The friction between glass and TPU was almost nonexistent, forcing me to rethink the entire project. Initially, I had planned for a friction fit, but instead, I had to design a solution where I slip the squished TPU part down the inside neck of the bottle. Once in place, the TPU expands to form a small overhang exactly where the bottle neck ends and the main body of the bottle begins. The final mounting relies on the low friction between TPU and glass, combined with the resistance of the TPU to be compressed small enough to pass back through the narrower neck.
To improve magnetic force, alternate the magnets (so long as the distance between opposite poles is significantly larger than the distance between the magnets and the surface to stick to) and put a ferritic plate behind all the magnets. This joins the flux lines on the back side, increasing the strength of the flux lines on the front. I did this for a magnetic project and it worked excellently, but it did require two pieces to clamp together for assembly, and it was a bit of a pain to do so without magnets flipping everywhere. Are you using a brass or stainless nozzle? I imagine carbon steel nozzles could pose a problem when embedding magnets into a print. Though maybe the spring steel build plate helps.
To improve magnetic force, alternate the magnets (so long as the distance between opposite poles is significantly larger than the distance between the magnets and the surface to stick to) and put a ferritic plate behind all the magnets. This joins the flux lines on the back side, increasing the strength of the flux lines on the front. I did this for a magnetic project and it worked excellently, but it did require two pieces to clamp together for assembly, and it was a bit of a pain to do so without magnets flipping everywhere.
Are you using a brass or stainless nozzle? I imagine carbon steel nozzles could pose a problem when embedding magnets into a print. Though maybe the spring steel build plate helps.
Also minimise the distance between the magnets and the surface as much as possible. A rubberised base would increase friction and do more to reduce slippage than increasing the number of magnets. Rectangular magnets magnets would be more efficient as well. Probably not enough space to set up Halbach arrays.
Magnetic field lines can also be focused on a particular side (without a ferrite core) when setting the magnets as a Halbach array, which increases the flux density on that side hence improves the magnetic force. - EDIT: Just saw that there is a video about the Halbach array on this channel! Wonderful :)
Government doesn't want you to know this. But it works.
Reminds me of the mines from GoldenEye on the n64. 🤣
Love it! Nice design and details!
Beautiful as always
fun build. like the laser work
beautiful!!!
god those are cool, if you get some double sided tape and rubber or soft tpu, and attach them to the bottom of the feet , you could have additional traction. if you put them on the bottom of the body, it'll also act as a surface protector.
im gonna see if there's a bluetooth speaker or similar that would fit inside
OOOO or, maybe an NVME housing. and a magnetic sheet on a laptop lid. most impractical but cool housing ever. and you'll feel like a zeonic front sabatour every time you use your nvme.
not sure if laptops are still bothered by magnets though
The old high temp / smooth PEI plate of bambu isn't great in terms of bed adhesion unfortunately. The textured plate is great but .. textured, so not always what you want. Recently, however, Bambu has brought out a new "cool plate super tack" built plate and it's pretty insane in terms of bed adhesion. I would totally recommend trying it out if you have issues with models like these. Very cool project as well btw :)
The way you labeled the magnets would cause great confusion in my country hahaha! (We say 'Noord' and 'Zuid' for North and South, can you spot the issue?). Anyway, I always only label one side anyway so it's not a real issue. I just thought it was funny.
😳 Thanks for letting us know! We'll keep that in mind for next time. We can see how labeling an isometric projection in this way could be confusing and possibly misleading. We struggled a bit with the colors, too. Many diagrams use Red for North and Blue for South, but many polarity detectors (especially the more affordable ones) only have red and green lights.
Maybe try adding an arrow that points north…
😂😂😂
Subscribed, love the simple narration and no annoying over the top editing etc. What laser and press were used for this project? I used to have a laserpecker but it always had trouble properly engraving 3D printed parts.
Very Cool container 😎
wow! true inspiration. I got metal garage furniture all over my office, this is going to look amazing here hehe
Haha! Same! Also kinda want to stick them to the hatch on my SUV 🤣
@batchresearchlab another project for you, a high tech hitch ball cover hehe
🤔💭
Beautiful!!
Please use AA batteries on the side or inside, to give us a more precise sense of scale.
Okay, so in a pinch, I couldn't find any AA batteries (we had tons of AAAs though, but I thought that might be even more confusing), but I figured Legos© would also be fairly universal? The '.....volume' image on the landing page has been updated. Hopefully that works for you and gives you a better idea of what might fit inside?
What's the badass ruler you're using to press those heat set inserts down?
We got it from CountyComm a while back, though I think they still make it.
@@batchresearchlab Thanks! They sure do. 6" Titanium ruler ("indestructable") - Do I need a $30 ruler? Doubtful, but I'm not sure that will stop me
Sweet!
I really love this channel and how they explore 3D printing. Keep going !
Where did you get that ruler?
at 7:29 did you say 165mm³ (cubic millimetres)? That cant be right. More like 165cm³ (= 165,000mm³)
😅 You're absolutely right! Oh man, that's embarrassing🤦🏽♂️ . Even a standard die 🎲 is over 3000 cubic mm!
Incredible work, as usual. Your, is one of my favorite channel.
I wish I had people like you in my "Bambulab functional 3d printing" group.
I'll share your video.
Cool thingy, but you missed a opportunity: They are not stackable.
❗️😉👍🏼...we've actually been experimenting again with tweaks to the lid ring design that includes some notches. It's a direction we ended up moving away from mid-process, in part because we were trying to reduce some variables because we were still working out magnet config issues at the time. The good news is that the pod design is entirely serviceable, so if we get to a good place with an alternate ring design, we can just issue an update and people can print the new one and swap it out!
Another impressive project. It’s really amazing how a laser engraving can make a 3d print look that much more refined.
I recall you have a $2000 Xtool? Would a $300 engraver be able to do the same?
depends on what you mean by "the same". Could it engrave words in thermoplasatics? YES
@@legionjames1822 Like visually. I know the expensive ones can cut wood and other materials but just for text etching would it look as clean?
You want some print with your brim???? It's PLA, mate, calm down.
I've never ever had bed adhesion issues with a Bambu
@@The3Kway We often have issues with certain formulations like some of the matte filaments
@@batchresearchlab IPA wipe the plate and bump it up a few degrees. You're really just making unnecessary post work for yourself. That high temp plate with some glue stick can keep an ABS rectangular box down at the corners without a brim.
i love over engineered useless pieces of crap !
Not sure what you mean? Did you watch the video? It’s literally useful. Small parts storage. A Gunpla fan might seriously love to have a few of these to keep small extra parts in for their hobby. A cyberpunk lover may use it for desk/office accessories. I could go on.
We also love the sci-fi, 80s/90s aesthetic and props, and leaned into that instead of a typical simple jar or other design that’s been done over and over.
In addition, this process is a learning journey for us as we enhance our CAD, materials and process experience. We’re doing that by designing and building things we enjoy, but that could also be useful. It’s literally part of our values. We then share that with other folks who might be interested. If that part of it doesn’t bring you any value, might not be the right content for you! Feel free to keep scrolling until you find a bridge.
Incorporating a **soft** TPU pad onto the 'snap out feet' might help it to stick with more weight inside - better traction when stuck on a vertical surface.
Or alternately, a slight recess in the feet where you could stick silicon 'feet' for the same effect.
Yes! We’ve talked about that as well. Maybe we can tweak in a revision at some point. Thanks for the pointers.
@@batchresearchlab Perhaps there are alternatives to TPU, it sadly lacks the "stickiness" of rubber... something I recently encountered while making lids and sieve inserts for glass spice bottles. The friction between glass and TPU was almost nonexistent, forcing me to rethink the entire project. Initially, I had planned for a friction fit, but instead, I had to design a solution where I slip the squished TPU part down the inside neck of the bottle. Once in place, the TPU expands to form a small overhang exactly where the bottle neck ends and the main body of the bottle begins. The final mounting relies on the low friction between TPU and glass, combined with the resistance of the TPU to be compressed small enough to pass back through the narrower neck.
To improve magnetic force, alternate the magnets (so long as the distance between opposite poles is significantly larger than the distance between the magnets and the surface to stick to) and put a ferritic plate behind all the magnets. This joins the flux lines on the back side, increasing the strength of the flux lines on the front. I did this for a magnetic project and it worked excellently, but it did require two pieces to clamp together for assembly, and it was a bit of a pain to do so without magnets flipping everywhere.
Are you using a brass or stainless nozzle? I imagine carbon steel nozzles could pose a problem when embedding magnets into a print. Though maybe the spring steel build plate helps.