Tom, great workmanship and a pleasure to watch and learn! Love your style of delivery, it's relaxing and clearly delivered. Do keep up the good work 😊.
Hello, Tom -- Ariel from Nahariya, Northern Israel. I am amazed at your extreme attention to detail and your perseverance in working out the construction problems. Because of the corona, we are sort of shut-down -- the good news is now I can spend more time on ship modeling. Keep it up with the great videos. Stay safe -- Stay healthy
Hi Ariel, Glad you are enjoying the videos. Always good to hear from you. Got your Catboat presentation. Looks like you're off to a good start. Getting the bulkhead alignment right is always such a pain in the butt (at least for me). Hang in there and keep me updated. Tom
Hi Tom; really liked this video! The use of the needle, and threading the piano wire on a lathe, is wonderful! One small quibble, you wrote clickpring on the video, even though you said clickspring. I got to the right place anyway, which is truly inspiring, but felt, in my nudgey way, that you probably would want to clarify that discrepancy. Many thanks for your efforts! They are a treat!
Hi Tom, Thanks for catching the type-o. I never would have seen that. All better now. Glad you're getting something out of the videos. Continue keeping me on my toes. Tom
Thank you seeing you do your work is very inspirational an I want to do better than I have been all be it I have been trying very hard. Now I will slow down think it though an work in more detail.
Slowing down and thinking things through is always a wise decission. It took a serious accident to my dominant hand 9 years ago to slow me down and force me to re-evaluate things. The recovery was long and painful, but the result was it made me a better model builder. Keep at it. Tom
Amazing work mate! I found this looking for small commercially available turnbuckles and though don't really have interest in the modelling hobby myself I appreciated your work so much I'm subscribing anyways 👊😄
Nice work Tom. I made turnbuckles similar to yours on my sandbagger model. Can't believe you have left hand micro die/tap set. I was on the lookout for it for several years but yet to find one. So my turnbuckles are half working since only have the right hand set.
Glad you like the videos. The set I have was clearly made by machinist and came with instructions on making replacement taps. I need to make one in right handed thread for the smallest size. That's the one I was missing during that project. Next time the turnbuckles will be fully functioning.
Very good and inspiring videos , i just found your chanel saved and belled , hehe about Cickspring , dont think thers a more zealous accurate craftsman on the tube. greetings from sweden.
Hello, Tom! Another awesome and instructive video. What type of butane torch do you prefer for silver soldering? Also, where can one fine that miceo tap and die set? Always looking forward to your exceptional videos...thank you!
The little torch I use is just a mini butane torch. They are available at Home Depot. The solder I use is silver bearing solder sold through Micro Mark under the name, "Stay Brite". That's the easy Part. The taps and dies, at the small sizes you see in the video, are part of a shop-made set I was lucky enough to get at a small tool auction. The only suggestion I have is to try finding an outfit that makes and sells tools for watchmakers. They could possibly have sets that small. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your videos, I’ve learned a lot. I’ve just retired and returned to a bluejacket model of the clipper Flying Cloud 1:96 scale that I started 40 years ago. I had completed the hull/bowsprit/foremast. And now need to finish the main and mizzenmast. It’s been a challenge trying to match the rigging that’s 40 years old to the new rigging, not only in size but in color as all the extra material I had 40 years ago has been lost. Also I’m accumulating model making tools and was wondering if you could recommend a mini lathe?
Glad you're enjoying the videos. For the rigging line, try going to Syren Ship models (www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/) They have some nice looking linen line. Bluejacket has some linen line too but, isn't quite as nice, but certainly usable. As for matching the color of your original stuff with the new, don't stress about it too much. Ship were constantly replacing worn out rigging , so there would have been many shades of manila or hemp on one ship at any given time. Also, it isn't all that hard to color the line to a particular shade. You can use artist's acrylics or even Minwax wood stain to do it. Get some colors and experiment. See what you come up with. As for recommending a lathe, I can't be much help, here. I have a Sieg C3 7x14 lathe and I'm very happy with it. It wasn't cheap and it needed quite a bit of tweaking and set up, but once I got it where I wanted it, it's been great. If you can find an old Unimat lathe with enough attachments to be effective, that would be a good choice for a table top lathe. Likewise, people who have the Sherline mini lathe seem to like that, as well. Hope this helps and welcome back to the best hobby on the planet, One more piece of advise: If you can, join a ship model club. You'll be around other people who share your interest and there is always someone in the room that will have an answer to you question.
Most of the tools you saw are readily available from a host of places. The jeweler's saw and assorted pliers and cutters can be had from Micro Mark, Contenti Company (the link is in the description) or your local hobby shop.
Hi Tom, I Really appreciate your replies to my questions. I need to make a couple of turnbuckles for my catboat project -- they aren't supplied in the kit. The small diameter tubing that you used ( or a similar size for a .75 " to 1" scale) is unobtainable here in Israel. I'm thinking of using surgical needles for the turnbuckles. I can get larger ones (used for blood transfusions) and adapt to my need. What do you think ? Best regards -- stay safe and healthy -- Ariel Nahariya, Israel
K and S metals in Chicago, IL has all the tubing and strip stock you could want. Here's their website: www.ksmetals.com/price-list Using surgical needles is fine, but since they're made from stainless steel, soldering it is tough to near impossible, so if you go that route, you will have to expoxy parts together.
@@shipmodelguy Thanks, Tom for the link to KS Metals -- What a treasure trove of stuff !!! I've an email into them to find out if they ship internationally -- I've had some problems lately with receiving (I think because of Corona) packages from the USA -- they've been held up in the USA postal service depots. Again, thank you -- be well--stay healthy -- stay safe
awesome job! on such a small scale... I have also facing this dilemma on my own project, where do I stop! I mean with the "functionality" of the details....
Hi Randy, Since I build static models, I usually don't concern myself with trying to get my parts to actually function. Of course, there are always exceptions (blocks and, to a lesser extent, deadeyes shoud work to some degree), and this model is full of them. The Wianno Senior has wire standing rigging. It would be nice to have working turnbuckles to tune the shrouds and stays. Fortunately, the wire is small enough to be fairly pliable so this should not be an issue, this particular case. I have become curious about making working turnbuckles, though. Keep an eye out for a video on that in the furture. Thanks, Tom
yah, that's a good point.. for some reason I was never satisfied with static models. Even as a youngster I would always make as much functionality as my skills would allow. usually leading to a daunting build... lol!
I was planning to buy a black pearl ship but I am not sure how to achieve the right look for the hull, being it both painted and worn out, almost rotting. I dont know if you saw the movies, but maybe you have some tips on how to that?
I went to Google Images to get an idea of what the ship looked like. I have to say, it goes far beyond anything I've had experience with. You might try the dry brushing and wash techniques I demonstrate in Painting for Scale and Ship Model Q & A, Part 1. As far as making it look as though it's rotting away, if this is a wooden model, you can use a razor knife to dig away at the hull or deck and use a scribe to roughly scratch away at the plank. Other than that, I'm affraid I don't have much for you. ruclips.net/video/_osyLcFF7ug/видео.html ruclips.net/video/papqqfJsKnM/видео.html
Thanks for the great information! As being new to wooden ship model building, what type of glues should be used on wooden model kits. I am just starting a build of a New Bedford Whale Boat by Model Shipways (# MS2033). Thanks!
I use different glues for different purposes. In general, I use a CA glue for most small things. For gluing up hulls and laminating, I use a good wood glue like Titebond. Elmer's glue mixed with water is good for rigging details. And there are times when I will use epoxy. Just depends on what has to be done. Hope this helps and I'm glad you're enjoying the videos.
Any of the entry level kits from Bluejacket Shipcrafters would be a good place tostart. They offer sail and powered vessels. Model Expo has a kit called Katy that's also pretty good.
Oh so cool. it looks a bit like my boat. mine is a meter smaller though. imgur.com/a/VfzyXaA i'm going to repaint mine this winter. That metal work is so tiny. Maybe some time i can make a model of mine. I didn't find many models made of this boat type, even though about 850 real ships wooden ones were made until today.
Oh this is one of the very few scale models i could find, this is made after the very first ship: i.imgur.com/CBTY4UQ.png It has so much detail. It really shows how the metal work can bring the model to the next level!
Hi Matthijs, Making a model of one's own boat is always a great way to really get to know every inch of it. Take some photos while you're repainting. I'd love to see it. Tom
Tom, great workmanship and a pleasure to watch and learn! Love your style of delivery, it's relaxing and clearly delivered. Do keep up the good work 😊.
Thanks, again for the support.
Hello, Tom -- Ariel from Nahariya, Northern Israel. I am amazed at your extreme attention to detail and your perseverance in working out the construction problems. Because of the corona, we are sort of shut-down -- the good news is now I can spend more time on ship modeling. Keep it up with the great videos. Stay safe -- Stay healthy
Hi Ariel,
Glad you are enjoying the videos. Always good to hear from you. Got your Catboat presentation. Looks like you're off to a good start. Getting the bulkhead alignment right is always such a pain in the butt (at least for me). Hang in there and keep me updated.
Tom
Tom, great videos from you. Your skill is amazing!!
Thank you very much!
Thank you Tom for your videos. I find them inspirational
Glad you like them. More content is on the way. T
I learned so much from you Tom. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowladge
Glad to hear it!
Hi Tom; really liked this video! The use of the needle, and threading the piano wire on a lathe, is wonderful! One small quibble, you wrote clickpring on the video, even though you said clickspring. I got to the right place anyway, which is truly inspiring, but felt, in my nudgey way, that you probably would want to clarify that discrepancy. Many thanks for your efforts! They are a treat!
Hi Tom,
Thanks for catching the type-o. I never would have seen that. All better now. Glad you're getting something out of the videos. Continue keeping me on my toes.
Tom
Thank you seeing you do your work is very inspirational an I want to do better than I have been all be it I have been trying very hard. Now I will slow down think it though an work in more detail.
Slowing down and thinking things through is always a wise decission. It took a serious accident to my dominant hand 9 years ago to slow me down and force me to re-evaluate things. The recovery was long and painful, but the result was it made me a better model builder. Keep at it.
Tom
Thanks for your videos Tom. I am just starting to make model ships and the information is most helpful
Amazing work mate! I found this looking for small commercially available turnbuckles and though don't really have interest in the modelling hobby myself I appreciated your work so much I'm subscribing anyways 👊😄
Thanks for the support. I appreciate it.
Good work mate! Thanks for the knowledge.
Nice work Tom. I made turnbuckles similar to yours on my sandbagger model. Can't believe you have left hand micro die/tap set. I was on the lookout for it for several years but yet to find one. So my turnbuckles are half working since only have the right hand set.
Glad you like the videos. The set I have was clearly made by machinist and came with instructions on making replacement taps. I need to make one in right handed thread for the smallest size. That's the one I was missing during that project. Next time the turnbuckles will be fully functioning.
Very good and inspiring videos , i just found your chanel saved and belled , hehe about Cickspring , dont think thers a more zealous accurate craftsman on the tube. greetings from sweden.
Hello, Tom! Another awesome and instructive video. What type of butane torch do you prefer for silver soldering? Also, where can one fine that miceo tap and die set? Always looking forward to your exceptional videos...thank you!
The little torch I use is just a mini butane torch. They are available at Home Depot. The solder I use is silver bearing solder sold through Micro Mark under the name, "Stay Brite". That's the easy Part.
The taps and dies, at the small sizes you see in the video, are part of a shop-made set I was lucky enough to get at a small tool auction. The only suggestion I have is to try finding an outfit that makes and sells tools for watchmakers. They could possibly have sets that small. Hope this helps.
@@shipmodelguy thank you, Tom!! I appreciate the quick response!
Thanks for the video ! Good job. Good luck !
Hope you keep watcdhing. More to follow.
Tom
Working on a model tug Camaro Moran , turn buckles for a crane mast I'll give it a try thanks.
Thank you for your videos, I’ve learned a lot. I’ve just retired and returned to a bluejacket model of the clipper Flying Cloud 1:96 scale that I started 40 years ago. I had completed the hull/bowsprit/foremast. And now need to finish the main and mizzenmast. It’s been a challenge trying to match the rigging that’s 40 years old to the new rigging, not only in size but in color as all the extra material I had 40 years ago has been lost. Also I’m accumulating model making tools and was wondering if you could recommend a mini lathe?
Glad you're enjoying the videos.
For the rigging line, try going to Syren Ship models (www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/) They have some nice looking linen line. Bluejacket has some linen line too but, isn't quite as nice, but certainly usable. As for matching the color of your original stuff with the new, don't stress about it too much. Ship were constantly replacing worn out rigging , so there would have been many shades of manila or hemp on one ship at any given time. Also, it isn't all that hard to color the line to a particular shade. You can use artist's acrylics or even Minwax wood stain to do it. Get some colors and experiment. See what you come up with.
As for recommending a lathe, I can't be much help, here. I have a Sieg C3 7x14 lathe and I'm very happy with it. It wasn't cheap and it needed quite a bit of tweaking and set up, but once I got it where I wanted it, it's been great. If you can find an old Unimat lathe with enough attachments to be effective, that would be a good choice for a table top lathe. Likewise, people who have the Sherline mini lathe seem to like that, as well.
Hope this helps and welcome back to the best hobby on the planet,
One more piece of advise: If you can, join a ship model club. You'll be around other people who share your interest and there is always someone in the room that will have an answer to you question.
Nice work Tom. That set of model ship tools looks essential. Are they easy to find?
Most of the tools you saw are readily available from a host of places. The jeweler's saw and assorted pliers and cutters can be had from Micro Mark, Contenti Company (the link is in the description) or your local hobby shop.
Hi Tom, I Really appreciate your replies to my questions. I need to make a couple of turnbuckles for my catboat project -- they aren't supplied in the kit. The small diameter tubing that you used ( or a similar size for a .75 " to 1" scale) is unobtainable here in Israel. I'm thinking of using surgical needles for the turnbuckles. I can get larger ones (used for blood transfusions) and adapt to my need. What do you think ?
Best regards -- stay safe and healthy -- Ariel Nahariya, Israel
K and S metals in Chicago, IL has all the tubing and strip stock you could want. Here's their website: www.ksmetals.com/price-list
Using surgical needles is fine, but since they're made from stainless steel, soldering it is tough to near impossible, so if you go that route, you will have to expoxy parts together.
@@shipmodelguy Thanks, Tom for the link to KS Metals -- What a treasure trove of stuff !!! I've an email into them to find out if they ship internationally -- I've had some problems lately with receiving (I think because of Corona) packages from the USA -- they've been held up in the USA postal service depots.
Again, thank you -- be well--stay healthy -- stay safe
Excellent- I love it!!
Thanks, Marisa
awesome job! on such a small scale... I have also facing this dilemma on my own project, where do I stop! I mean with the "functionality" of the details....
Hi Randy,
Since I build static models, I usually don't concern myself with trying to get my parts to actually function. Of course, there are always exceptions (blocks and, to a lesser extent, deadeyes shoud work to some degree), and this model is full of them. The Wianno Senior has wire standing rigging. It would be nice to have working turnbuckles to tune the shrouds and stays. Fortunately, the wire is small enough to be fairly pliable so this should not be an issue, this particular case. I have become curious about making working turnbuckles, though. Keep an eye out for a video on that in the furture.
Thanks,
Tom
yah, that's a good point.. for some reason I was never satisfied with static models. Even as a youngster I would always make as much functionality as my skills would allow. usually leading to a daunting build... lol!
I was planning to buy a black pearl ship but I am not sure how to achieve the right look for the hull, being it both painted and worn out, almost rotting.
I dont know if you saw the movies, but maybe you have some tips on how to that?
I went to Google Images to get an idea of what the ship looked like. I have to say, it goes far beyond anything I've had experience with. You might try the dry brushing and wash techniques I demonstrate in Painting for Scale and Ship Model Q & A, Part 1. As far as making it look as though it's rotting away, if this is a wooden model, you can use a razor knife to dig away at the hull or deck and use a scribe to roughly scratch away at the plank. Other than that, I'm affraid I don't have much for you.
ruclips.net/video/_osyLcFF7ug/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/papqqfJsKnM/видео.html
@@shipmodelguy thank you, I will check those out
Thanks for the great information! As being new to wooden ship model building, what type of glues should be used on wooden model kits. I am just starting a build of a New Bedford Whale Boat by Model Shipways (# MS2033). Thanks!
I use different glues for different purposes. In general, I use a CA glue for most small things. For gluing up hulls and laminating, I use a good wood glue like Titebond. Elmer's glue mixed with water is good for rigging details. And there are times when I will use epoxy. Just depends on what has to be done. Hope this helps and I'm glad you're enjoying the videos.
Thanks! That is a great help and really enjoying your series ~@@shipmodelguy
thank you.
What kit would you recommend for the beginner?
Any of the entry level kits from Bluejacket Shipcrafters would be a good place tostart. They offer sail and powered vessels. Model Expo has a kit called Katy that's also pretty good.
excellent video but only you will see that on the model.
Oh so cool. it looks a bit like my boat. mine is a meter smaller though. imgur.com/a/VfzyXaA i'm going to repaint mine this winter.
That metal work is so tiny. Maybe some time i can make a model of mine. I didn't find many models made of this boat type, even though about 850 real ships wooden ones were made until today.
Oh this is one of the very few scale models i could find, this is made after the very first ship: i.imgur.com/CBTY4UQ.png It has so much detail. It really shows how the metal work can bring the model to the next level!
Hi Matthijs,
Making a model of one's own boat is always a great way to really get to know every inch of it. Take some photos while you're repainting. I'd love to see it.
Tom
Compliment!