TLDR loctite does wonders :) It’s even crazier with tubeless systems. There, the nut often provides compression for the valve to seal against the rim/tape on the other side. I’ve noticed generally (and especially in wet conditions) vibration causes the nut to loosen. For tubeless systems, it flats my tire. The best solution I’ve found for all of this is a helpful serving of blue loctite. Means the nut doesn’t get overtightened, and it doesn’t come loose anymore.
Happy New Year from the USA. A little Jameson should keep you warm (or at least keep your spirits high)! Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The "real" or original reason for the nut is that most pumps presta pumps used to have push on heads. You needed to push the head on firmly and without the nut there is no way to get the pump head on. Take a look at the Silca Presta Chuck which is the same design. you force the valve through a thick rubber seal. Without the nut you will just push the valve in and most likely ruin the tube. If it is loose enough to get on without the nut, it will be so loose that you won't get any air into the tire since it will all leak out around the seal. Your pump has a locking lever so you don't need to push it on and the nut is "nice to have"
The Presta nut seems to be an optional component, at least in my opinion. I have not had tube problems or leaks with a push on chuck if the wheel is resting on the ground or floor. But I understand your concern and appreciate your comment.
You're welcome. It was fun to put my experience over the years into a video few address. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
(I hope I have got this the right way around.) When I used Continental inner tubes the nut always came loose, but with Schwalbe it never happens. The O-ring is a good tip. Thank you.
Presta and Woods/Dunlop valve stem nuts have existed for many decades before deep-section "aero" rims were invented! They prevent the rear valve from being torn off the tube when running low pressures, such as when I ride in the desert with as little as 8 PSI in my tires: at that pressure the rear tire creeps around the rim when climbing steep grades in ultra-low (15") gear, and that relative movement will tear the valve clean off the tube unless the valve is kept perpendicular to the rim. (That's why I also talc my tubes and tires.) Yes, stem nuts can help prevent the valve stem pushing into the tire, but Schrader valves don't have threaded stems yet most of the world inflates them with no problem!
I dare say, on the Schrader valve (AV) side, the design allows for it to be without the threads and nuts. In bicycle tubes, the AV stems are so thickened they almost always stay put, with the addition that their valve heads are fitted with a locking mechanism to loosely fit the head and then secure it firmly with the locking grip. In cars, the AVs are pulled through the rim and permanently stay in place, if there's a problem with the valve stem body, it requires the destruction of its design and a new stem fitted to resolve the issue.
Schrader valves are much shorter, greater diameter, and more robust then Presta valves. However, the hole in the rim required for the Shrader valve needs to larger - to large for many clincher rims. You mention that you run 8 psi. Are you running tubeless tires?
@@tony10speed No, I'm using good ol' tubes and regular tires. Low sub-10PSI pressures are only needed in the desert, otherwise I'm typically running 25 to 40-ish PSI offroad depending on the terrain.
You're welcome and happy New Year. It was fun to put my experience over the years into a video few address. Also visit our RUclips home site at: ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You can always use the “depth gauge” on a digital caliper to check the depth of the rim. That needle on the end of the caliper. It’s perfect to put it through the valve hole of a rim.
In the old days, we used a piece of electrical tape with a hole in it to prevent noise from a loose nut. The o-ring works better and yes, it does prevent scratches. Still, the use or need for the valve nut is highly debated. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good point, also I often find water inside the tyres, even if the tubes were always well inflated. That said most recent TPUs come without the thread, so his trick with an additional rubber joint won't do.
@@凸Bebo凸 I've heard that position before, same for the caps, but I never understood the reason. If the tyre is flat I need the nut to inflate the tube, and the cap could protect the valve from dust and dirt. So I always keep them on - if the tube has a thread - I even have 2 nuts on a valve to help equilibrate the weights of the wheel... The real reason for unthreaded TPU's valves is weight saving, the metal is largely replaced by plastic.
The tube, when inflated, seems to keep out any dirt. I, personally, have not seen this to be an issue. But I have had water come thru around the valve hole with our without the valve nut when riding through large puddles or steams of water.
I used to hate using tubes with fully threaded valve stems, because the threading would chew the hell out of the rubber gasket of my Silca track pump head. I'm using TPU tubes these days, so there are no problems with that now.
You are correct about threaded valves chewing up the rubber gasket of the pump chuck and one should consider TPU tubes as you suggest. However, not all TPU tubes are the same and viewers should do some homework. Regards, Tony
Hello Tony, I was inside the bike industry for over two decades and you look very familiar. but as we get older our facial features change. So I'm on the fence wondering if you were inside the industry. If so where did you work? As for my self I worked for the Japan Group & co-founded onZa etc., etc.
That will work. However, it might be tough to get the two nuts off if you need to replace the tube out on the road if you get a flat. What do you think?
@tony10speed I just hand tighten them, no pliers. I have no problem getting them unscrewed. The two nut combination helps hold the presta valve stiffer when attaching a pump. Give it a try.
Wait. What? Many presta valve stems have had threads LONG before there were any "aero" wheels while Michelin sold tubes without any threads long before "aero" wheels showed up. Tubular tire valve stems don't have threaded valve stems either. WTF they put threads on 'em seems to be that customers expect 'em rather than them doing anything other than chewing-up your pump chuck gasket. Same for the nut and valve cap, though the valve cap at least helps keep the threaded bits from chewing up the tube itself in the box (or in your seat pack). NEVER had any issues with longer-than-needed valve stem lengths other than the aesthetics...they look kind of silly on low profile rims, but if you have both low and high profile rims and don't want to worry about it, they work just fine.
lol, not taking bike advice from someone running Gatorskins on a road bike in 2025, if you were fixed brakeless you would get a pass cause those tires have no grip and are good for skidding. The nut is for securing the tube on the first pump up, and you don't need it all you have to do is push the tire flat when you hook the pump on, useless rotational weight otherwise. Trick to not damaging your presta valves is just use a threaded pump head, but you should be able to master the push on method as well. I do push on only I don't remember the last time I bent a presta head and damaged it. If you are still breaking presta heads its user error, the nut won't help you. Ditch the Velox rim tape too, that stuff is a nightmare if it gets wet, weighs like 100 grams wet per wheel and doesn't dry out. Tubeless tape is 6 grams and seals the wheel from dirt and water, it's SO much better.
The owner of this bike likes the Gatorskin (does not ride when roads are wet) - a personal preference. As to rim tape, the wheels I build all use 2 layers of tubeless tape but not all the wheels we see are built that way. We see a lot of bikes and tires and do not claim that one is superior to another but leave that up to the owner (unless asked for advise). The use of the Presta nut is also a personal preference and, as you say, is not a necessity. You seem very sure of your advise. Have you worked in a bike shop?
TLDR loctite does wonders :)
It’s even crazier with tubeless systems. There, the nut often provides compression for the valve to seal against the rim/tape on the other side. I’ve noticed generally (and especially in wet conditions) vibration causes the nut to loosen. For tubeless systems, it flats my tire.
The best solution I’ve found for all of this is a helpful serving of blue loctite. Means the nut doesn’t get overtightened, and it doesn’t come loose anymore.
Thanks for the tip. Great idea. Regards, Tony
A very good explanation for the rookie cyclist. Thanks Tony
You're welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Happy New Year sir! Greetings from a cold bike workshop in snowy Ireland.
Happy New Year from the USA. A little Jameson should keep you warm (or at least keep your spirits high)!
Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Informative, Useful, and Concise. Thank you for that video.
You're welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The "real" or original reason for the nut is that most pumps presta pumps used to have push on heads. You needed to push the head on firmly and without the nut there is no way to get the pump head on. Take a look at the Silca Presta Chuck which is the same design. you force the valve through a thick rubber seal. Without the nut you will just push the valve in and most likely ruin the tube. If it is loose enough to get on without the nut, it will be so loose that you won't get any air into the tire since it will all leak out around the seal. Your pump has a locking lever so you don't need to push it on and the nut is "nice to have"
You need to discover putting your thumb on the tire where the valve is when its flat.
The Presta nut seems to be an optional component, at least in my opinion. I have not had tube problems or leaks with a push on chuck if the wheel is resting on the ground or floor. But I understand your concern and appreciate your comment.
Thanks for the knowledge 🎉
You're welcome. It was fun to put my experience over the years into a video few address.
Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
(I hope I have got this the right way around.) When I used Continental inner tubes the nut always came loose, but with Schwalbe it never happens. The O-ring is a good tip. Thank you.
See if the 0-ring (or a piece of electrical tape with a hole in it as we use to do in the old days) does the trick and keeps it from rattling.
Presta and Woods/Dunlop valve stem nuts have existed for many decades before deep-section "aero" rims were invented! They prevent the rear valve from being torn off the tube when running low pressures, such as when I ride in the desert with as little as 8 PSI in my tires: at that pressure the rear tire creeps around the rim when climbing steep grades in ultra-low (15") gear, and that relative movement will tear the valve clean off the tube unless the valve is kept perpendicular to the rim. (That's why I also talc my tubes and tires.) Yes, stem nuts can help prevent the valve stem pushing into the tire, but Schrader valves don't have threaded stems yet most of the world inflates them with no problem!
I dare say, on the Schrader valve (AV) side, the design allows for it to be without the threads and nuts. In bicycle tubes, the AV stems are so thickened they almost always stay put, with the addition that their valve heads are fitted with a locking mechanism to loosely fit the head and then secure it firmly with the locking grip. In cars, the AVs are pulled through the rim and permanently stay in place, if there's a problem with the valve stem body, it requires the destruction of its design and a new stem fitted to resolve the issue.
Schrader valves are much shorter, greater diameter, and more robust then Presta valves. However, the hole in the rim required for the Shrader valve needs to larger - to large for many clincher rims. You mention that you run 8 psi. Are you running tubeless tires?
@@tony10speed No, I'm using good ol' tubes and regular tires. Low sub-10PSI pressures are only needed in the desert, otherwise I'm typically running 25 to 40-ish PSI offroad depending on the terrain.
Great sharing as usual, thanks & happy new year sir
You're welcome and happy New Year. It was fun to put my experience over the years into a video few address.
Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
You can always use the “depth gauge” on a digital caliper to check the depth of the rim. That needle on the end of the caliper. It’s perfect to put it through the valve hole of a rim.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks, Tony
Great Explanation like the train of thought using a rubber o ring
Glad it was helpful! Regards, Tonny
The O-ring grips the nut and helps prevent it from unscrewing and loosening up. Also protects the rim from scratches.
In the old days, we used a piece of electrical tape with a hole in it to prevent noise from a loose nut. The o-ring works better and yes, it does prevent scratches. Still, the use or need for the valve nut is highly debated. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
How about the dirt that can go through the hole? I think the dirt can flat the inner tube.
Good point, also I often find water inside the tyres, even if the tubes were always well inflated.
That said most recent TPUs come without the thread, so his trick with an additional rubber joint won't do.
@@DR_1_1 The installation jam nut should never be used while riding, that's why it's not on TPU tubes.
@@凸Bebo凸 I've heard that position before, same for the caps, but I never understood the reason.
If the tyre is flat I need the nut to inflate the tube, and the cap could protect the valve from dust and dirt.
So I always keep them on - if the tube has a thread - I even have 2 nuts on a valve to help equilibrate the weights of the wheel...
The real reason for unthreaded TPU's valves is weight saving, the metal is largely replaced by plastic.
The tube, when inflated, seems to keep out any dirt. I, personally, have not seen this to be an issue. But I have had water come thru around the valve hole with our without the valve nut when riding through large puddles or steams of water.
Why should it never be used while riding?
I used to hate using tubes with fully threaded valve stems, because the threading would chew the hell out of the rubber gasket of my Silca track pump head. I'm using TPU tubes these days, so there are no problems with that now.
You are correct about threaded valves chewing up the rubber gasket of the pump chuck and one should consider TPU tubes as you suggest. However, not all TPU tubes are the same and viewers should do some homework. Regards, Tony
Hello Tony, I was inside the bike industry for over two decades and you look very familiar. but as we get older our facial features change. So I'm on the fence wondering if you were inside the industry. If so where did you work? As for my self I worked for the Japan Group & co-founded onZa etc., etc.
No, I never worked for the bike industry. I am a retired physcian with a strong interest in all thing cycling, bike maintenance and restoration.
I double nut mine, no loctite needed. The double nut also holds the presta valve stiffer. Turn the two nuts against each other to jam nut them.
That will work. However, it might be tough to get the two nuts off if you need to replace the tube out on the road if you get a flat. What do you think?
@tony10speed I just hand tighten them, no pliers. I have no problem getting them unscrewed. The two nut combination helps hold the presta valve stiffer when attaching a pump. Give it a try.
@@nofortunatesonII I will, thanks.
Wait. What? Many presta valve stems have had threads LONG before there were any "aero" wheels while Michelin sold tubes without any threads long before "aero" wheels showed up. Tubular tire valve stems don't have threaded valve stems either. WTF they put threads on 'em seems to be that customers expect 'em rather than them doing anything other than chewing-up your pump chuck gasket. Same for the nut and valve cap, though the valve cap at least helps keep the threaded bits from chewing up the tube itself in the box (or in your seat pack). NEVER had any issues with longer-than-needed valve stem lengths other than the aesthetics...they look kind of silly on low profile rims, but if you have both low and high profile rims and don't want to worry about it, they work just fine.
🚴🏼🚴🏼🚴🏼🇺🇸🫡
😁
lol, not taking bike advice from someone running Gatorskins on a road bike in 2025, if you were fixed brakeless you would get a pass cause those tires have no grip and are good for skidding. The nut is for securing the tube on the first pump up, and you don't need it all you have to do is push the tire flat when you hook the pump on, useless rotational weight otherwise.
Trick to not damaging your presta valves is just use a threaded pump head, but you should be able to master the push on method as well. I do push on only I don't remember the last time I bent a presta head and damaged it. If you are still breaking presta heads its user error, the nut won't help you.
Ditch the Velox rim tape too, that stuff is a nightmare if it gets wet, weighs like 100 grams wet per wheel and doesn't dry out. Tubeless tape is 6 grams and seals the wheel from dirt and water, it's SO much better.
The owner of this bike likes the Gatorskin (does not ride when roads are wet) - a personal preference. As to rim tape, the wheels I build all use 2 layers of tubeless tape but not all the wheels we see are built that way. We see a lot of bikes and tires and do not claim that one is superior to another but leave that up to the owner (unless asked for advise). The use of the Presta nut is also a personal preference and, as you say, is not a necessity. You seem very sure of your advise. Have you worked in a bike shop?