Jason if you need anymore of those calipers I got two I just pulled off the Camaro since they aren’t legal in my class, I’ll be over your way soon and can drop them off.
@DIRTRACELIFE If I subscribe on my phone will that still apply to my TV? I SPLIT TIME BETWEEN TV AND PHONE . phone comes out to the garage ,but TV is how I research in the wee hours of the morning !
Cleaned a cup car wheel bearing when I was cleaning a carburetor (team used the shop I was at before the race...). Only experience I have so far on a cup car but hey I'll take it lol Back then (2015) they used Kluber low drag grease
Looked like your brake annulus was missing the outside of the rotor, just curious if the annulus sits flush with the od of the rotor after grinding the axle housing welds?
I have some thoughts on this. I do usually get slightly inside the edge. Perfectly matched to the edge would be perfect but I would rather form a lip on the rotor from the pad sitting deep than to have a pad that had a lip in it. Seems like that pad could hang up if it wasn't fully deep enough to cover all of it.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thanks for the response, i agree with you for sure :) accidentally got the wrong rotor few mm smaller diameter once and raced 14 hours on it and wasnt impressed with pad performance. Tarmac endurance is super rough on pads, havent found any compounds from wilwood or hawk that last very well except that new er1 from hawk.
I guess its an old school thing :) Years ago when I was a heavy equipment mechanic I worked along side a retired man who came in a few hours a day just to help/teach me and many of my solutions like that foil or making a seal press from pipe were things he taught me for getting the job done right then and there. No waiting and ordering some tool. He was a veteran and mechanic his whole life. He raced in the 50's and told me to go buy my first race car but then he just gave me a copy of Steve Smith's Street Stock Technology and told me "read it and learn it" and I was off and running. He taught me the value of being able to improvise and overcome anything. Had an 8th grade education and was the smartest guy I have known. I am forever in that mans debt.
Yes, I let the oil work in and out from the center and it lubes the hubs. Like I said, its a choice and both ways work fine. A lot of racers just run the inner axle seal on the passenger side and leave the drivers side open. One thing though, in my opinion if you don't run the inner axle seals then you need a full 4 quarts of gear oil in the rear end. Bearing spacers are great but they are expensive and setup is critical. I am comfortable just maintenancing all my bearings by checking the slack. I do this every three races. (3 races-change oil filter, 3 more-change oil)
I just put both in and the dust cap on one side, then I push them all across toward the dust cap side. However deep the axle is in the hub on the side I pushed from is how much gap you have. I agree 1/16 is the minimum because parts get hot and lengthen/expand. As long as you get it down to less that 1/8th inch then that should be close enough to stop extra movement without getting all the way down to a 1/16 th.
@@DIRTRACELIFE so I ordered axles off the measurements, then I was told in my Eaton trutrack that I needed to have made them much shorter and used bolts inside to space them out from the spacer/hole in the center. So now mine are cut exact… I was told to drill a hole in dust cap on drive plate and bolt the axle to the dust cap? I assume this will work… your thoughts? 🤷🏻♂️
Murray, I absolutely would not do that. The axles does move in those splines and you will never keep the dust cap oring sealed. Ok so you have the cut to length and only have how much extra? A 1/16th", an 1/8th? If you put the right side axle in flush to the hub and bolt on the dust cap, how deep does the left side go before it hits the other axle? If it is sitting only a 1/16 or 1/8th deep put the cap on and go. Is it deeper in? A 1/4"? Cut a spacer from a bondo blade and put it on the right side under the cap. Still a bit too deep, add one to the left. If its more tban that then put a bolt in the inner end of the right axle. If it is threaded it should be 3/8 x 24 (fine thread). If its not then drill and tap it. It doesn't have to be perfect since its literally just a spacer. If this doesn't help contact me through FB messenger. I will help you anyway I can bud.
Just wondering, what you think about a small gusset on the back of the brake bracket . I have done it both with and without but whats your thoughts..also how far will you travel to a race , we have a awesome track here , "Lakeview speedway" Lakeview sc ,, i would love to see you race the car in person , we usually have a couple of big 3 to 5000 street stock races each year.
Hey William, I'm a no on gussets and heres why. All of the force and I mean all of it should be in line with the caliper. If there was any sideload at all then something is wrong and must be corrected. (Like a hung caliper) But to go further... if a caliper hangs you will still initially have brakes for a while because it will start bending that bracket over. If the bracket was perfectly rigid you would instantly reduce your stopping power and this scenario can potentially blow a rotor off its tabs due to intense pressure on one side. So if it hangs then I literally want it to bend and then hopefully catch it on the next inspection in the shop. Ok, now on travel. We decided 8 hours out is our max. I looked and Cherokee speedway is 8.5 hours and I am looking at putting the big race in May in the plan. Its still not locked down but that one is on my bucket list. So how much further?
What size pistons are your running in those Afco's? The 1 3/4" or the 1 3/8"? Im running a manual brake metric with the same rear and looking for a brake upgrade as there's no rule limitation where I'm at. Really like the videos, explanations a regular working guy can understand, keep them coming.
The ones I picked up are 1 3/4" and there is no doubt they will have a ton of power on my rear disks with 4 of those pistons clamping. I am running the large GM calipers on the front but I expect to have quite a bit of rear bias even when adjusted to 50/50. The reason I mention this is the smaller metric front caliper will mean you have more rear bias just by setup alone then even what I have. It's a good thing on dirt but it's possible 1 3/4 creates more than can be dialed out when using metrics on front... Perhaps a 1 1/2" or 1 3/8" choice might be a good choice as well if that is a concern. Here is a link to the ones I am running and thanks for watching my videos: amzn.to/3uzj8e7
@@DIRTRACELIFE Thanks, Im running the 98-02 Camaro LS1 brakes on the front of the car, the calipers barely clear certain 15" wheels but perform much better, I will likely go with slightly smaller piston. Good advice, good luck out there.
Jason if you need anymore of those calipers I got two I just pulled off the Camaro since they aren’t legal in my class, I’ll be over your way soon and can drop them off.
Well, Shoot I wont complain if you did 😉
Thanks
Absolutely Darren
Very well done instructional video
people may not say it in the comments but I'm sure over time this will be very helpful to some people
Exactly Jeff, Let's make videos that people will find useful years from now. ;)
Helping me right now !
@DIRTRACELIFE If I subscribe on my phone will that still apply to my TV? I SPLIT TIME BETWEEN TV AND PHONE . phone comes out to the garage ,but TV is how I research in the wee hours of the morning !
Anywhere helps and thanks bud, glad you find my videos helpful sir.
Cleaned a cup car wheel bearing when I was cleaning a carburetor (team used the shop I was at before the race...). Only experience I have so far on a cup car but hey I'll take it lol
Back then (2015) they used Kluber low drag grease
I need to invest in some of that grease as well.
Thank you so much! This video is EXTREMELY helpful!
I'm glad it was and sure appreciate you watching!
Looked like your brake annulus was missing the outside of the rotor, just curious if the annulus sits flush with the od of the rotor after grinding the axle housing welds?
I have some thoughts on this. I do usually get slightly inside the edge. Perfectly matched to the edge would be perfect but I would rather form a lip on the rotor from the pad sitting deep than to have a pad that had a lip in it. Seems like that pad could hang up if it wasn't fully deep enough to cover all of it.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thanks for the response, i agree with you for sure :) accidentally got the wrong rotor few mm smaller diameter once and raced 14 hours on it and wasnt impressed with pad performance. Tarmac endurance is super rough on pads, havent found any compounds from wilwood or hawk that last very well except that new er1 from hawk.
I like the aluminum foil I was thinking splatter compound but then you got a big mess to clean off
I guess its an old school thing :)
Years ago when I was a heavy equipment mechanic I worked along side a retired man who came in a few hours a day just to help/teach me and many of my solutions like that foil or making a seal press from pipe were things he taught me for getting the job done right then and there. No waiting and ordering some tool. He was a veteran and mechanic his whole life. He raced in the 50's and told me to go buy my first race car but then he just gave me a copy of Steve Smith's Street Stock Technology and told me "read it and learn it" and I was off and running. He taught me the value of being able to improvise and overcome anything. Had an 8th grade education and was the smartest guy I have known. I am forever in that mans debt.
@@DIRTRACELIFEguys like your mentor are a God send. And their knowledge reminds you not to confuse education with intelligence.
Is this is 58 in or 60 inch rear end housing
This is a 60Inch floater. This chassis has a 62" front track and I went with the 60" for the rear.
I’m like you l prefer to run the rear oil the same way it just make it easier for your bearings to be lubricated.
I haven't had an issue yet :)
HOOAH ! Thanks for the education !.. getting ready to mount some rear calipers !
Thanks Bud, glad you found it useful.
So you just run no tube snout outer seal and let the oils run into the hubs? Also What’s your thoughts on bearing spacers?
Yes, I let the oil work in and out from the center and it lubes the hubs. Like I said, its a choice and both ways work fine. A lot of racers just run the inner axle seal on the passenger side and leave the drivers side open. One thing though, in my opinion if you don't run the inner axle seals then you need a full 4 quarts of gear oil in the rear end.
Bearing spacers are great but they are expensive and setup is critical. I am comfortable just maintenancing all my bearings by checking the slack. I do this every three races. (3 races-change oil filter, 3 more-change oil)
How do you measure axle lengths on that floater? I have heard axles should have 1/16 play? Curios your thoughts?
I just put both in and the dust cap on one side, then I push them all across toward the dust cap side. However deep the axle is in the hub on the side I pushed from is how much gap you have. I agree 1/16 is the minimum because parts get hot and lengthen/expand. As long as you get it down to less that 1/8th inch then that should be close enough to stop extra movement without getting all the way down to a 1/16 th.
@@DIRTRACELIFE so I ordered axles off the measurements, then I was told in my Eaton trutrack that I needed to have made them much shorter and used bolts inside to space them out from the spacer/hole in the center. So now mine are cut exact… I was told to drill a hole in dust cap on drive plate and bolt the axle to the dust cap? I assume this will work… your thoughts? 🤷🏻♂️
Murray, I absolutely would not do that. The axles does move in those splines and you will never keep the dust cap oring sealed. Ok so you have the cut to length and only have how much extra? A 1/16th", an 1/8th? If you put the right side axle in flush to the hub and bolt on the dust cap, how deep does the left side go before it hits the other axle? If it is sitting only a 1/16 or 1/8th deep put the cap on and go. Is it deeper in? A 1/4"? Cut a spacer from a bondo blade and put it on the right side under the cap. Still a bit too deep, add one to the left. If its more tban that then put a bolt in the inner end of the right axle. If it is threaded it should be 3/8 x 24 (fine thread). If its not then drill and tap it. It doesn't have to be perfect since its literally just a spacer. If this doesn't help contact me through FB messenger. I will help you anyway I can bud.
@@DIRTRACELIFE thank you for the help.
Just wondering, what you think about a small gusset on the back of the brake bracket . I have done it both with and without but whats your thoughts..also how far will you travel to a race , we have a awesome track here , "Lakeview speedway" Lakeview sc ,, i would love to see you race the car in person , we usually have a couple of big 3 to 5000 street stock races each year.
Hey William, I'm a no on gussets and heres why. All of the force and I mean all of it should be in line with the caliper. If there was any sideload at all then something is wrong and must be corrected. (Like a hung caliper)
But to go further... if a caliper hangs you will still initially have brakes for a while because it will start bending that bracket over. If the bracket was perfectly rigid you would instantly reduce your stopping power and this scenario can potentially blow a rotor off its tabs due to intense pressure on one side. So if it hangs then I literally want it to bend and then hopefully catch it on the next inspection in the shop.
Ok, now on travel. We decided 8 hours out is our max. I looked and Cherokee speedway is 8.5 hours and I am looking at putting the big race in May in the plan. Its still not locked down but that one is on my bucket list. So how much further?
@@DIRTRACELIFE not sure , i am 6 hrs from maggie valley, pigeon forge area
What size pistons are your running in those Afco's? The 1 3/4" or the 1 3/8"? Im running a manual brake metric with the same rear and looking for a brake upgrade as there's no rule limitation where I'm at. Really like the videos, explanations a regular working guy can understand, keep them coming.
The ones I picked up are 1 3/4" and there is no doubt they will have a ton of power on my rear disks with 4 of those pistons clamping. I am running the large GM calipers on the front but I expect to have quite a bit of rear bias even when adjusted to 50/50. The reason I mention this is the smaller metric front caliper will mean you have more rear bias just by setup alone then even what I have. It's a good thing on dirt but it's possible 1 3/4 creates more than can be dialed out when using metrics on front... Perhaps a 1 1/2" or 1 3/8" choice might be a good choice as well if that is a concern. Here is a link to the ones I am running and thanks for watching my videos: amzn.to/3uzj8e7
@@DIRTRACELIFE Thanks, Im running the 98-02 Camaro LS1 brakes on the front of the car, the calipers barely clear certain 15" wheels but perform much better, I will likely go with slightly smaller piston. Good advice, good luck out there.