Ripoff Shop says "Dangerous to Drive!" Here I come to WRECK YOUR DAY! Volkswagen Passat
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
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I don’t know why I turn wrenches all day then come home and watch a guy turn wrenches on RUclips but yet here I am 😂 Great content man, love to see an honest experienced tech out there do what’s right for customers 👍
Lol, as a 30 year electrician I can’t even come home after work and change the lightbulb
I work at a car rental and detail cars. To get off work (sometimes while at work) and watch people detail cars. It’s satisfying is all. Lol
@@ARayOfStars0330 yeah it is lol. I suppose we just like to see how other people in our industry do their work
I tell people to change their air filters more often then i ever want to change my own 😅
I wake up and watch it so it kick starts my brain before going to work at the shop. lol this and coffee and I'm ready to go.
This dude's honest commentary and complete lack of curse words is extraordinary. Not to not mention automotive skills.
Ray, I have been watching your videos/channel - almost binge watching - for the last 2 weeks straight. I am impressed! Not so much with the great repairs and the way you exemplify what is best about the trade, but with your moral courage and determination to uphold a standard of honesty and integrity. That is what makes you shine most and your audience, thus far after reading thousands of comments, fully agrees with me on that point. Keep up the fantastic work!
Yes, and well said. The guys who had this vehicle before Rainman, give the whole trade a buyer be ware reputation. Sad.
Words < actions.
This is literally me the last two weeks as well. Idek how I came across him. But glad I did!
I did a bunch of work on my car in the last few weeks all thanks to Ray he inspired me he showed me ways to do stuff and I just got into it for a few dollars I got my car running late and a few problems straightened out thank you very much Ray have a good evening
Spiderman no way home
Here in Lithuania we just change that rubber on CV joint and thats it. 30min job :)
Same in Oz. Or replace the outer CV joint only and be done with it.
Yeah that felt like a total waste replacing the axles for torn boots :(
Did anyone else laugh when he said “It looks like you and my prybar are going to have to share the same hole”? Or is it just my messed up brain?😂
no its my messed up brain as well
I laughed, thought about it laughed again. Then he throws the "should have used lube" into it. MEH, only Ray can get away with that one, come to think of it does the wife have the same sentiment.
Ray, just keep up the good work, oh and as an after thought while this rain from cyclone Dovi pours down, maybe the writer of the pinned comment should find a quiet dark corner and find the use of some lube on himself.
Your brain
You are definitely not alone man, anyone that says ya are is a liar.
Nope .. I just thought "huh, that should make for an interesting evening.." :| :)
In the future, the easiest way to remove the passenger axle is to remove the drivers axle (which naturally pops out easier as it’s shorter and easier to get too) then use a long extension through the entire transmission, through the differential to the passenger seal, and lightly tap the extension with a rubber mallet onto the axle spline shaft. It’ll pop out comically easy since you are applying central pressure and the C clip won’t hang it up.
The Canadian flag when you say FREEDOM is the bombdigity . Well done . I was born and raised on the Canadian border in " northern " NY . I am so proud of our brothers and sisters to the north.
I think he would be narrating out loud to himself even if the cameras weren't there. Love the videos
I mean... doesn't everybody?
Talking to yourself is assuring that someone intelligent is listening ... I do it all the time
I think he would argue with himself too out loud. I know I do and I always lose the argument..
You should hear him the morning tying his shoes! LOL
I’m so jealous of you guys in Florida when it comes to these jobs. I had to do my CV earlier this year and it took forever mostly just to beat the rust off the car…
No kidding. Lived in Ohio for 26 years, and every time I worked on a car you either had to beat it up or heat it up.
@@ryan-uu9lj Or? I think you meant and. Even then, once the car hits around 7 and starts to turn to 25% rust by volume, I often get to throw in a new one, cut and weld. Always fun when you get to make even more work for yourself just to do work.
Endlessly entertaining, hours of wonderful frustration, 7/10. I don’t know what I would do with all my free time if I lived in a state without winter and salt.
@@Alexlfm Im in NEPA I feel your pain. lol
Must be a ford, dodge or chevy product. My mitsubishi is a 2008. Changed cv axle and no rust. On gravel lot with basic tools under 2 hrs and no rust. Buy imports if dont like rust and junk. 3 yr old dodge car has more rust than a 14 yr old import. Lived southern ontario where they love the over use of salt and no rust. My chev car at only 8 yrs old was scrapped due to rust rotting everything to the point of no shop with even jack it up to change the tires. My chevy is most reliable until it hits 150 000km then its scrap. I hear big 3 reliable as spending 4500 per yr on a 5 yr old car to keep it driving then 3 or 4 yrs later the rust made it un safe to even put on a hoist. At 110 kmh the car shook so bad and left a trail of rust to follow me home. Where did shawn go? Well follow the rust trail and find him. Nope imports. Minor surface rust and reliable. 395 000 km and only burns 1 ltr of oil per year. 3 yrs since changed the oil and she still runs good.
Muffler clamp and slide hammer works without beat n trans and pry n at angle
On behalf of my fellow Canadiens thank you for your support.
Hey Ray, a tip from an Aussie Shop that replaces, rebuilds & reboots CV's all day.. You see that rusty coloured inner joint housing has small notches on it. If the C Clip is stuck, use a chisel and a hammer in one or more of those notches to release the inner joint. This is the best way to avoid housing damage.
Why couldn’t the boots just be replaced if the drive shafts were ok?
Big Pete exactly cv boot is about £20
@@bigpete2525 That was exactly what I was thinking. If the joints are not worn, why is it necessary to replace the drive shafts and not just the boots?
@@mementomori4972 I was thinking the same thing, that these mechanics had a special way just to replace the boots. Because don't you still have to take the axle off to replace the boot? That's the problem. You are still doing the labor of replacing CV axle versus the cost of the boot. My dad had to replace a broken boot. He tried the cv split boot kit. Where you just glue it on, but it didn't work, the boot ripped and failed twice. So he decided to replace the whole axle. Because I believe the price of the axle was not much more to replace the boot. It's just the labor that is costly.
@@deegee2416 No, you don;t have to take the axle off. You just have to pull the hub assembly from the drive shafts, replace the boots and screw it back together. It's a 20min job for the front axle.
I wish there was more mechanics like you that actually care about their work and the customer
i've never met an honest mechanic
there are. we are just hard to find because we generally wont work for name brand companies (usually). my customers literally follow me from store to store, company to company, if I decide to leave a company for whatever reason (or let go for stupid reasons.)
I have one his chinese ever since i know this guy i stopped doing my own repairs but his super busy flooded with vehicles everyone dumps vehicle on him and take off
@@goblinphreak2132 honestly i would buy a garage to just to help people out.
We exist but are the minority.
FREEDOM, Canadian flag. You rock Ray. Thanks for the props.
I wouldn’t call it props, not to Canada’s government, but for the Canadian people who are under the tyranny of Trudeau’s rule.
This is why so many respect you. You don't put your interests in front of others. You are more of a partner and advisor.
The world could be such a wonderful place to be if only everyone had this guy's attitude! Always get a smile and a laugh here :-) Thank's for brightening my day !
So true. Maybe the mechanic who used those scare tactics needs a little scare himself. Jerks like those are the ones who do unnecessary work and lie to elderly people (and those who don't know much). I realize they need to make money but doing this is a sure way to keep people from wanting to come and see you and you will go out of business eventually. No one will miss you!! Instead I like mechanics who tell it as it is and not exaggerate on things. The only thing worse than unnecessary work being done is if something gets broken while they are at it. You can imagine how that goes over when the customer discovers those shenanigans!!
We need more people that are honest and take pride no work like they're signing it like a piece of art then maybe the world might be a better place hey have a good evening
I'd only change the rubber boots. Never heard of changing the shafts for a torn boot.
That was the customer's choice.
@Bercilak de hautdesert Replacing just the boots and repacking makes sense, especially if the cracks are caught in time. It's a high mileage VW Passat, will the owner recover the price of new CVs?
@@doleph1 Customer gets what they want.
Welcome to America. We alway replace the shafts for a torn boot. I actually never seen someone just replace the boot.
@@MrKornnugget Seems a bit wasteful doesnt it?
Being an old "shade tree" mechanic, I can fully appreciate these videos. Getting things apart is 75% of the battle so not being around to reassemble this one is no bother for me.
Knowing Ray if you would have had the right parts when he needed them he would have finished the job that day and then left but it didn't work out that way have a good evening
Ray, I love your work ethics, I wish there were more people out there that put truth and honesty before profit and targets. Well done Sir 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
That is why Ray has so many viewers, honest men are hard to come by,
Not that i support any kind of ripoff but. There's always 2 sides of the story.
"Oil change turned into an expensive job, must be trying to rip me off." And that's why they ended up at Ray. The shop could just have said that they should be replaced. Worked way to much for private person's to learn that there's a lot of weird people. As you also can see on some other of rays clips too. Best part of living in a small town is that i often know the person that was there before me.
I'm going to play devil's advocate here. Now, just like everyone else, my first reaction is that the other shop was trying to rip the owners off, but... what if they weren't? What if the scare tactics were because that shop has seen far too many people refuse service despite a dangerous condition? There are other channels here on RUclips where you can see what happens when people ignore warnings. Bald tires, subframes that are more rust than metal, brakes worn down to the fins that "just started making this noise", broken strut mounts, transmission leaks "fixed" with FlexSeal tape... it's amazing how some people will ignore serious problems thinking that they'll save money.
Honesty before profit? He still sold Both axles instead of just the boot
@@chrislotzkat1066 there is a difference between saying the boots are split, the shafts have done over 200,000 miles and would benefit from being changed to saying they are dangerous and you will die.
Vw and audi is my regular stable. Top tip, put a nut on the track rod end thread so when it releases it doesn't jump out. Or just give the casting a hammer wack to release the taper of the track rod.
Since you've got the experience ... when changing ball joints on wife's 2007 Rabbit I found multiple torque specs for the 12 point vs 6 point axle bolt. What are they??
@@joepanico6480 200nm for both
He normally does put the nut back on, but likes to wind some viewers up.😀
@@phil6465 And he succeeds.
@@joepanico6480 6 point bolt usually comes with thick washer and 12 point one - has a collar ( kind of built in washer) - thus a different torque required
Working in the junkyard paid by the part (not wrecked) , gave me so many tricks...never pry twords the seal on an axle, and soft direct pressure doesn't work well either, sharp direct blow out in seconds everytime. Tie rod ends and spindles have flats on them for striking with a hammer ,again off in seconds..no damage..
Fun watching struggles doing it the "right"way.
Back in the late 80’s my boss sent me off to an Goodyear car alignment training class. I worked at a Goodyear shop that did not pay their techs a commission but all the other students/techs did. Part of the class was discussing how to improve your commission bonus. The whole thing seemed sketchy to me. What was worse was hearing the other techs telling stories on the tricks they used to sell products/services.
happens in all industries.. even mucdonalds, h/jacks,, would you like to upsize, fries with that.. ect..
Been there, done that. Worked for Goodyear for 13 years, went to same seminars. Other "techs" made a shit load of money 'upselling'. I saw many good parts replaced for techs as they made great 'bonuses'. managements did not care as long you produce/sell by hook or crook. This happened in the 80's in Canada. All Goodyear stores were owned by the 'company' after that the stores were sold to ex managers. I was under the gun many times explaining why my numbers were low. Thank God I got a job teaching auto mechanics to a very reputable polytechnic, teaching the 'proper' way to diagnose and repair vehicles. Cheers
@@harrywalker5836 Nope nothing like the same. When you are offered the option of a larger meal you are getting what you paid for (AND better value)nd that is nothing like an unnecessary wheel alignment plus the MacDonalds counter staff gets nothing extra.
@@caddyrack I remember that they could get paid three separate commissions: One for recommending a part/service the customer would purchase. Another for installing the part and lastly a commission for performing the alignment. So the goal was to get all three commissions. One guy claimed to almost make 75% more than me based on the bonuses he made. And at the time, I was one certification away from being an ASE Master Tech.
long time ago I got caught on such trick, after that I'm repairing cars by myself ;) my cars, cars from my family, neighbors' and friends.
I liked the Canadian flag reference when you said freedom. Also, I liked you using the word "malarkey". Have a great vacation.
When I was working on cars I always had a large group of repeat customers because of the same practices you follow. Be honest and make customers aware of what you find and what needs repairs and what can be left go for later when it fits their budget. People trust you when your honest even though the shop doesn't like it much because most only care about profits. I used to have an old Russian Immigrant who was on SSI and paid me with groceries, mostly meats and bread he got on markdown because nobody else would help him keep his car running.
That because they know you are not a con artist!!
you're good people MLT.
I love trading I got two antique kerosene lanterns for doing electrical job and a tune-up on my friend's car it turned out a squirrel built the nest in her airtake air intake in the car couldn't breathe it turned out when I cleaned it out and did a couple other things that I got from Ray well hands the car runs fantastic she sent me cookies tonight black and white cookies a whole box of them oh man I have to behave it almost set my bedtime hey guys have a good night
been watching a few of your videos and I really enjoy your content. I just subscribed because of your comment about putting yourself in front of others. you've got the right mentality
I wish I could find a shop near me that is like the one where Rainman Ray works at. We had one that was mom and pop shop, and they retired and there went that.
I love the honesty and the fight to show there are GOOD mechanics out there! Thank you Ray!!
Before I bought my new ride, had one here locally I trust. Saved Christmas for me one year.
If I had a car that needed repairs I would take it to you gladly. I hate most mechanics but you are honest and talented. Keep up the good work.
I work at a reputable shop that spends almost $0 on advertising. Its all word of mouth. We would rather you keep coming back and make more money off of you by being honest every time, rather than take you for a ride 1 time and never see you again. 3rd generations are coming in because their grandparents have been coming here since the 70s. And nothing gives me more pride than to help a female not get taken for a ride. My wife is lucky to have me to keep that from happening to her. Too many get taken for a ride and it makes all of us in this profession look bad.
Amen. What is the adage. Do unto others as you would have done unto you. Unfortunately many people have the adage of "I can do it you but don't you dare do it to me". But eventually those "reap what they sow". You are also reaping what you sow by having repeat customers - they are the best business you can get - in any profession.
@@bobhudson6659 ,
some shops think in terms of 'what can I do you for ?' !!
So question. What do you guys do with DIY'ers who screw it up? We jokingly call it the "stupid tax" when we have to replace missing brake hardware, or cross threaded lug nuts and studs cuz the diy'er messed it up.
Need a new stud or caliper bracket bolt? You're going to pay extra.
Well said!
@@juergenbertram7312 that applies to the "know it all" lol. The ones that are humble enough to learn we dont have a problem with lol.
Much like the oil cap for you, it bothered me for the paper floor mats to go in backwards. Lol.
Same😎😎
Agreed
First thing I noticed in the video that the feet on the paper floor mat were backwards
Ray was just being ironic . . . ;0
It's hardly the first time he's done that. I've been waiting for a long time to see someone post about that. Yea, I know it's not nice to make fun of other peoples OCD, but it still amuses me...
I was going to comment about how impressed I was at you getting these parts for a VW so fast...and then they didn't fit. But oh well, still impressed at how clean this Passsat looked and still going with over 212k miles. You easy going demeanor makes the videos entertaining and fun to watch.
It's Florida. Stick that same car anywhere in England on the north of Maine and it ain't going to look like that even after 12 months.
I moved from just north of Manchester, England to close to Sacramento, CA. I'm constantly amazed at how rust free and clean everything stays and I've been here over two decades. Working on the car in England was a nightmare. A simple brake pads and disks was a feat of engineering and brute force and you'd spend at least ten times more time with a wire brush cleaning up the bolt heads than you would taking the bolts out.
OK, when did folks stop changing just the boot?
Surely no need to change the entire shaft if it's just a boot that's torn?
Same thought occurred to me. Anyone know why? Is it economics, convenience, something else?
@@robinbeckford It's mostly convenience..... I'm having to change my CV Joints on both my shafts on my Mk4 because they no longer sell them new (Complete)
I'm thinking convenience. if you have to work one step up from removing the axle completely, then the thought occurs, that replacing the boot means cleaning out & replacing lots of grease.
That's what I thought, a set of boots would be 30 at the very most. No idea what the cv axles cost but I bet its cheaper including labour to just do the boots
@@robinbeckford It's to stop it coming back in a few months to change it again for the Cvs failing. You have to disturb so much anyway, just to change the boot. If the boots have lost lube and done a few miles, they are ready to fail. It is wise to change the whole lot. Labour is the main expense, which would almost be the same, for boot change or shaft change. DIYers, would just change the boot as labour is free.
Great touch with the Canadian flag. You're a good man Charlie Brown
Great honesty which gets Rainman a gold star. Secondly, a piece of cake to do axles on this VW. Well, except for the extraction difficulty. But they have been in there for a few miles and they seemed at home there. A second gold star is issued to VW for not making the process a pain in the rear and requiring a bunch of special factory tools to get it apart. Thanks VW! Honda, were you paying attention?
@Rainman Ray's Repairs - If there is no wear in the joints, why didn't you just replace the boots. I had done just the boots on my old Renault 12 and the joints lasted another 150k miles.
Ah yes, the joys of a Renault 12 CV joint boots :) Don't know if I was doing it wrong, or it was because they were aftermarket boots, but a real pain to install - stretching the small end over the end of the shaft. But you're right, the joints lasted forever, even with the boots split for years.
I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
@@erik_dk842 your comment comes on and on many times, are you on speed dial on Ray? He install what the company buys, NOT his fault if the parts are from China or Mexico.
The chip in the windshield, (just above the steering wheel clearly visible from :34 thru 1:29), has got to be more dangerous that what they diagnosed this vehicle with. Great job Ray, and as always thanks for the video and the information to unsuspecting folks out there. "Click!"
What’s so dangerous about a chipped windshield, or was that a bit of satire?
@@ellieprice363 definitely satire!
Was a mechanic for 7 years . Now I do moving and man I love watching yo video. Brings me back 😢
I’ve been an MOT tester in the uk for over 34 years now and it never ceases to amaze me how much crap other garages come out with to scam people , I look for faults listed that never existed 🥴 and find other things completely missed and the worst culprits, the big national places , Halfords kwikfit and national tyres with their bonus scams … I mean schemes, the more you talk them into having done by means foul or fair the more your getting in your pay at the end of the month .
I've never had an advisory on an MOT in 37 years of driving. I check everything top to bottom before I go, and have always maintained my vehicles myself. Went to Halfords once during the pandemic, as my usual tester/garage was closed as they all had the virus....I came out from Halfords with a list of critical defects as long as your arm...Every one of them was a SCAM! I respect honest competent testers like you! 😊
@@88GTi if it drove in , I’m sure it can drive home again, I’ve tested cars for four generations of families and they still come back after 34 years , my 6 year old lad is named after one of my oldest customers that have followed me through a few garages and many’s employers
@@thehouseholder5468 You sound just like my tester 😊
You sound like a good tester to me and similar to the one that I go to. I do all the jobs myself and have been working on cars a long time and often spend my weekends tinkering with something. My tester understands this, and he understands that you can quickly write off an old car if you record every bush that is past its best (but he would advise if they were dangerous and had play).
The frustrating thing is there can be some good testers who are well meaning and aren't out to scam someone, but will raise things that are technically not an MOT fail (e.g. pads nearing the end of their life), but bad experiences from other garages will mean they might not trust someone who is looking out for their best interest.
I've also heard of people not being happy with parts mark up but I know too well the hassle of ordering parts and them being the wrong item, having to do returns, identifying the correct part, or having issues with parts (I had a brake disc/pad set that was slightly too thick to fit in a caliper before and the wheel was locked up. The piston and sliding pins were moving freely, and the piston completely bottomed out) A micrometer confirmed the disc was slightly thicker than the replacement from the other side.
My daughter had an issue with Kwickfit falsely claiming a fault. Took it to an independent nearby they said there was nothing wrong with the car. Can’t remember the details but she would have been substantially out of pocket by £150 to £200.
It's really nice to see competent honest mechanics doing work on people's cars, so many people go to these rip-off shops and they get these ungodly prices for work that didn't need to be done. I like the way this shop works they do a good job at a fair price and do the work they need to do and move on to the next car.
Trust takes time to build and can be destroyed in seconds by very few words. Lets guess where this customer will go for work next time, here or another shop, here I think, regardless of price.
50-50 here or another place, since the initial estimate for the job done was end of that day and the car got held over time.
They don't care cars break down and need repairs all the time. If they're doing that they have plenty of business.
I had a lady come in once for a oil leak check. Got under the car and the drin plug was hand tight. So I fixed that for her but I seen she had a brake light out as well told her we can fix that as well. She stops me and says she was at jiffy lube yesterday, they did the oil and told her about the brake light and the light was a 2.5 hour job and would cost $200. (I was kinda in shock for a good sec.) But told her they lied to her, I had it changed in 5 minutes and it cost her around $20. She was pissed that jiffy lube would try to do that to her. (I can't stand shady shops, it gives us all a bad name)
It's JIFFY LUBE. EVERYONE knows jiffy lube is like McDonald's of the auto industry they pay like crap so the customers recive crappy service.
I'm not even a mechanic and I can change my brake lights in less than 10 minutes. That said, mine is pretty easy to access.
@@karlrovey some people just know nothing about cars at all and others just take advantage of that... today I had a older gentleman ask me to put his spair tire on because he didn't know how to get it down and is waiting for his tax money to get a new tire. So I did it but showed him how so if he ever needed to do it himself. (It was a newer Toyota suv and the tools and down drive are hidden)
Ray, I just wanted you to know that your videos made me more comfortable and knowledgeable about working on my own car. Last week I did all the mods and part swaps to take my GTI to Stage 2 and did all my maintenance and fluids myself. Thanks man!
Keep up the great work Ray. Love your work ethic and skill combined while having fun with it all.
You should add more vehicle specific and completed work information in your descriptions. I'm sure you would solve a bunch of headaches on specific jobs your doing for the DYI'ers. I love this channel and have picked up a ton of tips and tricks. Thanks for what you do!
He only makes the videos to justify talking to himself out loud at work. Otherwise they would know he’s mentally unwell. If you learn anything about cars, that’s an accident.
just change the two torn boots, pack them with the special grease and that's it. It's a lot cheaper than changing the whole shafts.
And keep original OE CV axle and not use cheap regrinded axles. When I replaced my 2000 Passat CV axles, I used Raxles which rebuilds using OE parts.
obviously not in Yankee Land where time is money, business is business and love is bullsh*t
With over 217,000 miles on them?? I think not! Plus looked like the torn boots were not caught in time, lots of dirt on the flung grease.
@@brnmcc01 rubbish! No knocking hardly any grease come out, Re pack with grease new boots no problem, Rather fit that than a pair of crappy aftermarket driveshafts!
The Canadian flag and "It had achieved FREEDOM!" killed me. Love it and your work even from up north.
And Canada is full blown Tyrannical Nanny State now.
This makes me appreciate how the cv axles on my Audi bolt on. Actually last time i changed one, i just unbolted it from transaxle then slipped it out of hub without dropping ball joint or tie rod.
Much better design for the Audi, had the same setup on my C5 S6
It's the same on all the B5* and C5 Audi/VW platform cars, and the A4B6: bolts and a flange on the gearbox side of the shaft. These later Passats and the CC are a Golf-Jetta hybrid PQ46 platform. Only reason I can see for them using a spline at both ends is because it was cheaper, somehow.
I love it when one shop tells them a horror story then they go to yoy for the repair because you're nice and honest. ❤
This VW looks in good condition for the milage
Honesty is always the best route. I do small engine repairs (I don’t have to crawl under vehicles) and it’s the same idea. I’m honest with the customers, they appreciate that and 9 times out of 10 they will authorize repairs that may not necessarily be absolutely critical, but should be done. And you create a customer for life!
I want this guy to fix my car! All mechanics should be like him... knowledgeable and honest and gives a dam about the customer and their vehicle.
when i replaced my cv axle, i didnt have a big pry bar, so i just yanked really hard. most because i was mad at fighting with it. literally on the 3rd yank it just popped out. that made my day.
and then the new one was out of the socket and my car wouldnt go back together so that ruined my weekend
My buddy and I spent one entire weekend working on CV axle. We ended up using a pickle fork but had to keep grinding it wider and wider until it fit. Something that shouldnt take more than an hour took 20 25 hours lol. Once it finally came off I was so tired I couldn't even remember how the hell I did it
In a week you covered two of my vehicles. The Silverado suspension and steering looks straightforward for my shade tree capability. My B6 Passat's CV axles, however, will benefit from the leverage afforded by my neighborhood shop's lift.
Thanks, Ray!
If it's anything like the beetles axle, you are correct. Not enough leverage on the ground. (You can't get a big enough probably in there)
Know this personally because I was working on a friend of a friend's car..at a garage with a lift, but outside on the ground.
Had to put it back together, pull it on the lift. It took 45 minutes to do on the lift.
Inner CV puller with slide hammer works great when you don't have a lift.
Watch this again, but with CC on. I believe the CC is captured by an automated system. It does a great job, in particular when it identifies the tool sounds as "music"
Scare tactics. The best way to lose customers to better shops!
They dont care … they are just looking at making a buck at that moment. They are not looking at long term
That's exactly why competition is good for consumers. Don't believe what the first guy said? Get a second opinion. The second guy might just have a go pro and a great sense of humor!
While I enjoy watching other people work I remember that I saved a lot of money actually cleaning repacking and putting new boots on CV joints where the only fault was a boot failure. The boot came in a kit with fresh grease and metal straps to reseal the ends. Is this no longer a financially viable option? ( The removal was much easier at the time with the inner cv bolted to a drive flange so the entire unit would drop out once the outer nut was removed)
I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
Yes, it’s still frequently done and that’s all It needed. Could do both in 30 min. or so.
I still replace my boots if I'm doing the work. If you're paying shop labour rates the savings on material costs are not worth the saving if you then have to have the job repeated whilst you still own the vehicle when the 'used' joints wear out.
They definitely still have CV axle boot kits if you don't mind doing the job yourself you will save a lot of money. If you take it to a shop it'll probably be better to have them replace the whole axle that most of the time come with a lifetime warranty and at least a one year labor warranty.
10:36 I've been trying to tell you... to coax the c clip into position, rotate the axle while applying separating pressure fairly consistently with each bit of rotation. it will center the c clip in it's bore instead of trying to pinch it against the blunted part of the inner retaining edge.
Or... use a c/v axle removal tool + slide hammer?
@@JustAnotherAlchemist I was screaming at my screen. "Just get a slide hammer! It'll pop right out."
Get a BFH!
(Bigger Fn Hammer!!!)
Ha haaaaahhh ha ha ha! 😂
english plz 😂
Spent DAYS on Escort axle ends. I had to build a special tool to clamp on a three sided axle cup so I could put small chains on it and THEN it came out with straight slams.
Every single video is great man. Please keep up the great work!
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It's hard enough finding an honest mechanic and I know there out there.
I'm no mechanic but wish you were my mechanic you do great work.
Interesting to see the c clip struggle... Victory... :) I always wonder why you use maximum loading on the ball joint splitter..... I put loading on it and then hit the joint to shock it free... much less explosive. and doesn't strain the tool so much.
Also leave the nut on the threads, it'll release but you won't get the explosive breakapart
@@leviathanmac3053 Where's the fun in THAT!
@@TonyRule 🤣🤣
@@TonyRule When you get hit in the mouth with a puller tool, its lots of fun.
Yes. Offset pullers can get into tight spots but can store a lot of energy. The simple direct ones store less for the force. I usually just start with love-taps from a copper-face hammer onto the partly loosened nut.
I think part of the enjoyment I get for watching your videos is seeing how you overcome the constant problems you run into as you do the repairs and solving them.
While you were working on the first axle removal and it not budging out of the transmission case I kept thinking there was a hidden circlip that needed removal first, but that wasn't the case. You eventually freed it by bottoming it out and then crow barred it again. Nice work. Nice video. Thanks.
Refreshing to see a high mileage (for the year) car in your shop, in well looked after condition, with premium tyres.
Interestingly - a split CV boot will cause an MOT (annual inspection) failure here in the UK. I assume for the reason that ingress of water etc will cause potentially dangerous failure within a short time.
(Also - there's no need to split the track-rod ball joint on these. Just swing the steering to the side you're working on, undo the three bottom ball-joint bolts and the drive-shaft pops out easily. Saves a bit of time and the risk of damage.)
Failure because of the enviroment risks. In my country (CZ) it is not something that will prevent your "MOT" to be approved. We have three categories depending on the severity of the problem and split/cracked boot is in the first or maybe second category.
First category is for example surface rust in small portion, small oil leak etc. it doesn't the result in the overall result of your inspection. Second category are more severe problems and it gives you 30 days plaquette so you can drive your car back from MOT and fix the problem. The third cat. are dangerous failures like not functioning brakes, structural rust etc. - you are not allowed to drive the car on the roads imediately.
Here in NZ, it'll only trigger a failure for the "Warrant of Fitness" if the grease is contaminating the brake pads, rotor, or backing plate. So, pretty much never. They can go clickity-click in a straight line and it's "fine". Hell, it doesn't even need a boot!
But don't you dare have a stone chip in the "critical vision area" of your windscreen or a fog lamp that is fitted but doesn't work - you have to remove that. But if your reversing lights don't go - no worries - just start 'er up and back over that deaf dude - that'll teach him to pay more attention to the telltale exhaust tip movements.
I agree, it if left unattended to could be dangerous, and it is an MOT failure. But my thoughts on the job were ,why did he have to replace the whole drive shaft instead of the CV boot kit? He did say they weren’t worn out. The hum he heard could be from the joint drying out. Once cleaned and repacked with grease it would have been perfect. My opinion of course. The first garage/shop told no lies.
@@Bo88y22 I think the cost of the remanufactured shafts there is so low, it's not much more than the labour to just replace a boot. I'm not sure how that can be, but I've heard it said. Plus, the CV could be on it's last legs anyway, and they just don't want the hassle of an ignorant customer complaining that they didn't do it properly if it starts making noise.
I love how you struggle with inner CV. It's so entertaining.
I will give you advice, use 2 pry bars at the same time. It works like a charm. XD
TY man! That made my day.
Times are tough here in Canada! 🇨🇦
On a vw cv joint , remove joint from hub , cut away old boot, run hub bolt in the end of the joint it will push the joint off the shaft , fit new boot, tap joint on end of shaft , I never remove a shaft from vw for boot/ joint replacement ,
A little knowledge goes a long way. I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
Thank you ray a shop here told my 84 yr old mother she had to get a new tire when all she needed was it patched some of these shops are preying on The old an women it's good to see somebody honest in this field of work I love my hat is off to you !!
Thanks for all the insight on how to do these jobs because it lets us know what we will deal with when it comes to us diy'ing our repair jobs! Little tips and tricks are very helpful.
I've had several boots failing on VAG's and found the best way to determine CV failure is to slowly drive in circles with full right alt. left turn of the steering wheel. Had one boot ripped some 200 miles from home and the CV completely broke down before I was home again.
Click click click (sigh)
That is what I do when considering the purchase of a used, pardon me, "Experienced" front wheel drive car also do the same thing in reverse as sometimes forward does not reveal the situation.
uncommon,unless your in water or mud. they last for yrs cliking..
@@harrywalker5836 I find watching Ray's videos deeply disturbing, the only time cars look like that underneath is when they are fresh off the line. Usually when brushing the mud off a nut you brush the flats off the nut.
Coastal, rural locations are tough on cars.
@@dougaltolan3017 ,
why aren't cars protected from rust and corrosion by covering them from underneath, the way the paint is carefully applied in multiple layers ?!
Finally a job I have also done! Passat has gotta be German for "pain to work on".
It’s German for made in Mexico junk.
@@craiglyles4755 Right, junk. Tens years old, 220k miles and looks/drives like a new car.
@@vw5056 Ha ha you obviously don’t work on them professionally, they’re the German junk car line, ask any VAG / Porsche technician.
@@craiglyles4755 I actually did ask my mechanic once and he said they are excellent. Just stick to GM turds you hack.
@@vw5056 I get you’re biased and a VW fan boy but the only hack is your mechanic if he’s telling you they’re good cars. Hitler would be rolling in his grave if he could see what an abortion the product line has become. VW Audi techs with any decent amount of professional experience will 100% confirm they’re junk. I work on Asian, Euro, domestic, and VW euro trash has lined my pockets very well for 23 years.
My by far favorite way to remove stubborn CV axles is to wedge two 3/4 inch cold chisels on either side and hammer them in evenly, they usually come out with 1 chisel, but 2 makes sure of it. I had one where the shaft was missing already, a d driving 2 chisels didnt work at first, but hammering the cv joint cup inward popped it out. If I can't reach the chisels, I have a designated socket and extension for long-reach tactical chisel bonking. Great to see your honesty paid off with the repair today.
Really? Swapping the whole axle? That is unnecessary. I only ever change the cv joints as it takes almost not much more time than changing the whole axle itself but saves you around 50-75% of money. At least in Germany
Not even that you can exchange just boots or how it is called fill it with grease and you saved 99% of the cost, if there is no worn for joint itself it is just waste of the money i just looked it up for this passat it cost 10euros for one side...
Most shops just change the whole thing because it's not much over a more cost today.
right? oem axles have the best quality... loads of dodgy parts around
you can even change the outer boot even without getting the axl out of the transmission, really waste of time and money in this Video...
Labor cost to dismantle the joints off the shaft to replace the boots, and then find out the joint are damage too. Meanwhile, the part shops rebuild half shafts all day and they cost less than the total labor costs.
I used to do my own mechanical work and I was caught in a time when I had no time to replace my brake pads myself. I took it to one of the big name shops (whose known for tires and sounds like liarshome) they tried to scare me saying the surface rust on the tire mounting face of my rotor was so bad that it was unsafe to even let me drive out of the shop. A few choice words and short time later I went home and did the job myself and wouldn't you know it, no issues after a little brake clean and some quick abrasive wiping.
Wow. This is getting bad
Yeah, I cut up my card for that place years ago!😉
Yeah, I could tell SOOOoo many stories. NEVER GO THERE!
Tyre shops are the worst for running those sorts of scams here in NZ too.
I wish all techs were as honest as you good sir. The industry definitely needs an honest overhaul.
I've seen a pattern of videos recently it kind of lead me up to where Ray is at today and I'm very happy for him and I understand why have a good evening
Might have had less trouble just popping a boot on each side rather than replacing the hole shafts 🤷🛠👍✌️
Agree totally
That's my thought, if the boot is the only part that's gone bad, it seems like it would be simpler and cheaper to just replace that after re-greasing the joint.
Especially since aftermarket axles (most off the shelf brands anyway, that one included) are inferior axles to the OEM ones. I have a MK IV GTI that I have put the OEM axles back on with 130k+ miles on them, just fresh grease and new boots and the car is undoubtedly smoother than when I had "new" Autozone or Advanced auto quality ones on it with under 20k miles wear.
I think he over 200k miles though, so... I dunno. I wish they still sold CV joint rebuild kits, but I guess nobody takes the time anymore.
Hi Ray...Why change the whole axle not just the CV boot? The outer CV joint comes off. If there was no noise or clicking it doesn't need a whole axle. Love your videos...Just asking 😊
Thought the same thing.
Outer CV joints can become very problematic to reassemble on some of these cars because of how the clips are made so often times the labor of redoing the boots can cost more than just slapping in a cheap aftermarket axle. I personally just reboot oem ones as oem are more durable.
@@rex_s80 It takes ten minutes to change the CV boot; It takes 5 minutes to take the drive shaft out but the boot costs next to nothing, compared to a new drive shaft.
@@gordonbrown9382 Took him a bit longer to take axels out. No ?
Unknown if it has sludge/dirt/material in bearing assembly ,would you want to face the free labor come back?
Next time you get a drive shaft that won't come out try and burrow a very thin screwdriver between the transmission case and the pry bar. Putting the fulcrum for the pry bar nearer the load will vastly increase the leverage. I would keep fox wedges as an option but i got fed up of folk never returning them (cos proper ones cost a lot)
Ripoff shops hmm? Changing an complete axle in case of a faulty boot? I mean there was no noises from the axles during the test drive. That was absolutely not necessary.
Changing the boots would have been cheaper and faster too.
Please tell me this was not your decision. Cant believe...
I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
Typical of independent quick lube (“full service” lol) places, they love their 50% + parts margins…get the axles for $40 each and charge $250 per side P&L
I once went a shop for an alignment after replacing the tie rods. They told me that I needed $1800 worth of work before they could do it and the tie rods were on that quote. They told me if couldn't afford that, I should park it until I do because if was unsafe. I thought how stupid can be to add the parts that were clearly brand new and I told the service writer that. He said I only go by what my mechanic said. I went down the street and they said I didn't need anything which I knew because I checked out everything when I made the repairs.
A lot of those chain shops are geared to run up the work to be done like that. I took my almost new Tundra in to a chain shop ( Brake Check-- I think they are out of business today) just to get my brakes flushed with new fluids. Anyway they called me and told the they found $1200 in repairs ( on a truck barely used 38k miles). I went to another shop and they found nothing wrong. Later I was recalling my story to a co-worker and two other guys started laughing cause they had the same story used on them at the same shop using the same" you may not make it home" it as so dangerous. They would use a co-worker to come over from another bay to confirm the dangerous repairs...like playing out a script. They soon went out of business and now it's Pep Boys there.
That is how I learned how line up my own stuff good enough for my tires to wear good. Nobody would align it unless the whole front suspension was all brand new parts. Preferably put in by them.
Good job flashing the Maple Leaf Ray, you're a good man.
A VW with THAT many miles and yet no warning lights??? That's quite impressive!
Must have been recently repaired lol
I junked Audi A4 with 260,000miles never used oil between services,50mpg because I damaged the whole drivers side in bad temper because wife wanted me to garage it instead of doing it herself ☺️
CV joint grease gets everywhere - even on the dashboard warning lights!
@@john1genius You sure showed her! (LMAO)
It's a 2.5l 5cylinder. I've seen some with 300+k
I've been a mechanic for 25 years, and that's the first time EVER that I see axles on a volx that are just pressed in the tranny. Every single one I've seen has been bolted on to a flange on the tranny (exactly like the new ones you got). I was astonished when I saw it...learn something every day! Turns there ARE some volx cars that have normal axle shafts!
It's a mexican vw jetta made with mostly chinese parts.
It's a Passat which has a 2.5l inline 5.
Might be Mexican but it's not a jetta. Vw has a long history of doing odd things with the passat vs the Golf/Jetta/Bug platform. If this Passat has AWD it definitely adds shenanigans.
As someone who had to replace a CV on a similar car (2.5l Rabbit with an auto trans), I'll take the bolts over the "pressed" ones. I had to make a 12lb hammer slide to get the damn thing out. I'm in Minnesota and the car had 200k+ miles. Obviously the weather and salt makes everything automotive worse, but the bolts are easier. Just remember to torque to spec and you're good. Especially since they (should) last about 200k miles.
that there are good people who want to make an HONEST living is always hope for a better future for our world. My hat is off to you, we need more people like you : )
After a quick look online it appears axle shafts for that car are about a 110 bucks each. I have no idea what rate Ray's shop charges per hour for labor but let's say $80 . The question is can Ray completely disassemble the axle shaft clean out all the old grease related and it install the new boot and reassemble the axle for less money than a new axle shaft cost. That would be the main driver to me on whether to replace or fix. Another consideration is even with a new boot it is still an axle shaft with over 200000 miles. Seems kind of a toss up to me and don't understand why so many commenters think that you can just pop a new boot on without disassembling the shaft. price to remove and remove the axle shaft new or not is exactly the same.
you could replace both outer CV boots in less than an hour and the boots would retail at less than 15 bucks each.
@@alanlawz Once labor is added it doesn't make sense to just replace the boots. Its a messy job to clean and repack the grease on those and it could be more expensive to replace the boot vs the whole axle.
@@alanlawz so at $100 an hour plus $15 for the boots and I still have 200,000 mile old axles that have run low on grease. No thanks, I'm getting new axles at $220 Every. Single. Time. It's a no brainer and unless you don't have the extra $100, you'd be an idiot not to replace.
Not to mention that where I am, labor is $140 - $150 an hour.
I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
Lol $80/hr, maybe in the 90’s…, probably closer to $140 and a 50% + parts margin which puts this job around $600 plus tax and all the shop fees.
I'm a retired automotive tech and I watch most of your videos. I found this one very interesting I noticed you don't use any type of penetrating oil number one and after reading all the comments from everybody else I realize everybody has an opinion on the CV shaft most of the time I would just replace the complete assembly due to the high mileage. I remember the days when I would order parts and they would be the correct parts. Obviously those days are gone now I would wait till the parts are in my hands before I disassembled the car. Ain't nothing worse than tying up a service bay waiting for the right parts.
Enjoy your time off and stay safe... Peace out ✌️🇺🇸
Ray, you don’t need to use that tie rod tool. Leave the ball joint connected, loosen the tie rod nut nearly all the way and hit the end of the that arm hard with a steel hammer - 3-5 pounder. It will pop right out! No boot damage, no muss, no fuss! Great video.
I wanna know how they pushed a VW past 80k without catastrophic electromagnetic disruption in the computer complex.
Exactly! Or a cataclysmic eruption in the cylinder zone
Surprisingly my sister’s VW hasn’t had any electrical issues. The engine on the other hand… leaks so badly. Timing cover and transmission leaks etc. water pump and coolant hoses and only 100k miles.
That car is mint! Even the wheels were curb-free.
The amount of oil on the bottom would bother me tho.
I was supprised at the mileage it shouldn't be still running ?
2012's with the 1.8 turbo had a problematic cam chain tensioner, but this car may have already had it addressed. There are a ton of these running around the St Louis area with 200+k on them, looking at FB marketplace.
over the last 40 odd years, it's been my experience that every component of the automotive industry (But not everyone "in" the industry) utilizes "Fear Mongering" as a sales tool.
I've found work in a better place for me, but I was a tech and then a service writer in a commercial truck shop. The wording was more about DOT regulations and potential lost revenue and the dreaded DOWN TIME. A tech is a tech but the service writer bothered me. roughly 70% of what was coming out of my mouth was total bullshit. I moved on to greener pastures.
Sadly alot of customers also don't understand what is being asked/said. Ive learned not to trust anything a customer says.
Examples from today.
Two shop warranties.
Customer 1 transmission service light came on after brake valve replacement.
Customer 2 no grease caused trailer brakes to lock up.
Its hard explaining something to someone whose got no idea whats going on.
One of those quick oil change places told me that my pvc valve was blown and had to be changed. I asked what a pvc valve was and he pointed to the pcv valve. He showed that when they rattled that they were shot. I informed him that is was a positive crankcase ventilation valve and that rattle was a check valve. Hate those places
If the shafts are good why swap them?
Why not just change the boots, regrease and replace?
It takes a special tool to stretch the new boots on and plus you gotta take the CV shaft out anyway to change the boots
@@blackdragon46819 no it doesn't. I work on VW's for a living. Replacing the whole axle instead of the boot is for lazy techs.
@@blackdragon46819 You just knock the ends off, pull the old boot off the shaft, slide the new one one, replace the end, fill with grease and secure your clips.
No need for a stretcher tool.
Love it, just after you said "achieved freedom" you flashed up the Canadian flag. Brilliant support for the truckers.
It’s hard to plant a flag on internet, we must speak in code now
I'm a mobile tech and I have crafted a special tool for a stubborn CV axles. I have a decent sized slide hammer with a pair of vice grips attached to the end. Just poke a hole in the inner CV boot with your knife and put the pliers through the hole on one jaw and bite the cup from the inside. One good slam wham bam out with the axle. Kadink.
Love the videos! I was wondering if its standard procedure in the USA to change the whole axles just because of broken boots? At least in Finland we change just the rubber boots if the axle and joints are fine. Its messy, but pretty easy and usually you don't even have to remove te axles from the transmission if its only the outer one broken.
You can usually get decent axle assemblies for only double the price of boots alone. Once we charge extra for labor you break even. Plus the car has 240,000 miles on it. Are they original axles? Why put new boots on old axles. Back in the 80’s when boots would tear every 50,000 miles on some cars and axles were more expensive we would replace boots only.
Cost of the installation tool, plus the time to replace it with the cost of the boot doesn’t justify just replacing the boot. It’s often cheaper to replace the assembly.
@@joeyk803c I havent needed any special tools, and replacing the boot takes usually under 10minutes (+removing and installing the axle if needed, but that has to be done every time if you are replacing the whole axle.)
The rubber boots are around 20€ and the whole axles low quality are around 150€ OEM propably 2-3 times that.
When changing just the outer boot you dont even have ro remove the axle from the car, so youll never have to worry about transmission fluid and the overall time for the job is a lot less. + You dont have to buy the whole axle. If you have a bad joint, you can change just the joint and boot. Its exactly the same thing, but just a bit more cost in parts for the joint but still much cheaper than a whole axle + labour.
@@mirovalimaki See for us the average axle is around say 50 USD which really isnt a whole lot in the grand scheme of things
Getting to the CV boot is about as much hassle as replacing the axle so might as well do it.
42 years as a owner in the industry. What I have pounded in to my employees, always check your parts before you even start the job. Otherwise you hang up a rack and leave a customer without a car. Also there is a tool that has a fork that goes behind the inner cv joint and uses a 10 lb slide hammer to knock loose the axel without possible damage to the transmission case or seal. Just a suggestion. But I love your dedication , you are one of the technicians that have great hands.
Unless the mechanic has worked on the same VW, how would they know the axel has the spline extended until they got it off. I realize they are not bolted on like the ones sent wrong, but sometimes you don't know what you need till you get a full picture of what came off the car?
@@captinbeyond you could tell by the side of the axle on the transmission side. The ones that were sent were most likely for a manual transmission. They use a flange, and are bolted to the transmission. The car was an automatic/dct transmission hence splined axles on both sides.
In this case, it seems like he started to work on the vehicle was the parts were not in stock and had to be ordered. Either from a hub store or a DC. The SW who ordered the parts may have done it online and not ordered the correct ones, or the parts store employee didn’t ask the right questions/didn’t notice “manual transmission or Automatic/dct transmission”
@@joeyk803c Yeah, I agree, but I'm willing to bet a lot of shops start doing the disassembly while the parts are waiting to be delivered so to get a jump on getting the car back to the customer ASAP . And if the parts are wrong, the runner makes another trip back...probably happens all the time.
I looked everywhere for someone to say something about him using those pry bars like that. Even if he didn't have an axlepuller atleast use a tuning fork(ball joint separator) stick it in, and a few taps even the most stubborn cv's pop right out
I've never heard of clicking CV axles which only make noise when turning being called a safety risk when driving in a straight line down the highway. But then again, it has been a couple of decades since I let anyone work on my cars. And THIS is the main reason why.
VW / Audi one always has to shear through the retaining clip when removing. It slides in perfect, then snaps in place when home, but the square edges of the groove prevent it collapsing to easily slide back out. If you knew that going in, you would not have been expecting it to simply pop out. Something like a puller works better for this application because you are literally shearing through the snap ring which is softer than the surrounding parts for that reason. If you undo the inner boot from the outer tripod linkage you will find that the entire shaft slides clean out, the grooves are not spherical, they run parallal to the shaft axis.
I have seen you change alot of cb axels but my question is when there is no problem with the joints whay not just change the boot?
Great videos outherway don't think i have missed any one.
That is my question to! Ok The labor is the same, but i think it should bee a huge price difference....
I bet these original axles with replaced boots would have lasted longer than the Chinese crap Rays garage is going to replace them with.
The shops make lots of money on parts margins…a $600 job for cheap aftermarket axles vs. maybe $200 for boots. Could do both sides in less than an hour. Realistically these axles probably wouldn’t have an issue for another 100K if you did nothing to them, no sense in replacing axles on a junk VW with high mileage.
If i did on my car i would change just the boot when i can get them here from around 15$ the cheapest one , i meen i can change many boots for a CB axel.
"Not getting killed at work is one of my main goals" Keep doing that and you just might make it through!
i once had a tire shop, while i was in for an oil change, tell me i needed brake lines immediately! they showed me them and they were cut almost all the way through. now i'm thinking if they were that bad how did i even have brakes to begin with?! i'd have noticed they were soft at a minimum, if i had any fluid left at all. i'm convinced they cut the lines to get more business
That's weird! Why would they naturally just get cut like that anyway? If there wasn't rust causing it or evidence of them rubbing on something sharp, I wouldn't believe it. Sad how people can take advantage like that
@@chadg6874 rubber lines could wear out like the cv shaft or vacuum line parts, and develop cracks. For a high pressure line like brake lines, youd notice your brake fluid level being low very quickly
I had a brake line fail under braking due to age and the rubber hose got literally blown open and was only hanging on by a thread. The line looked like a firecracker went off inside it, and there was brake fluid sprayed all over the wheel arch.
It's quite a violent and sudden event, I heard a loud pop, the brake pedal immediately went to the floor and I lost virtually all braking force.
I'd put the chance of a brake like getting cut "almost all the way through" and not exploding at virtually 0.
I suspect the axle boots were cut by the other shop, in the video.
@@terrypetty9822THANK YOU. this rubber looks clean and fresh, with one wet spot per boot,m like it was sliced in one lil spot per boot to fling the grease out and F the customer one way or the other.
I find it interesting that the failure of both boots is in the same location. Anyone else notice that…? Yet aged dried grease on the control arm. A long term scam done by the other shop? Note the damage is on the small end of the boot, where it won’t leak as bad, but look bad enough to a customer…
Good point. I don't recall ever seeing one tear at the small end either - it doesn't get subjected to the same strain there. It's usually at the root of the first large 'groove'.
I spotted that too, I've never seen 2 booths on car go like that
I've seen small end tears on some of these, and my vehicles are never touched by anyone other than myself. I have also had both boots torn on vehicles where they had been ignored for awhile. It could be the way they drive.