*UPDATE* my customer watched the video and read some of the comments and got a little freaked out. They decided to scrap the coupler, but still paid me for the work. I had my NDT(Non Destructive Test) vendor come and check it out. It passed with flying colors! Infact the weld looked better than the surrounding material, excellent fusion of base materials. My weld inspector watched the video and called to confirm my process. To say the least, he was happy. But it will go to scrap, even though it is stamped "Repaired, Not For Interchange". Better to be safe than sorry! *UPDATE*
MIG welding on Cast is a horrible idea. Either braise it or use nickel filler rod for cast iron. Issue welding with steel will cause crystallization in the cast making it very brittle. Topper: My comment is for others that are seeking to replace cast iron components, not negative against you.
@@guytech7310 I have read the comments and its funny how people don't understand the difference between cast iron and cast steel. It is like the difference between brass and bronze, people use the term brass universally, but they are nowhere near the same material.
I got to tell you how much I have enjoyed all of your videos. Your sense of humor and willingness to admit errors just proves to me that you are human and hold yourself to a high standard. Being a professional mechanic I have my wall of reality where I keep my mistakes displayed to remind me to always double check my work and never assume that I remembered to torque all fasteners. Hats off to a true craftsman.
Im certified through the railroad for repair . We welded on and repaired couplers on a regular basis . I still repair cars . Thers always someone thats gonna cry !
I can't even remember now what job I built it for. I started making a video on it and then thought some idiot would try to build one and blow themselves up. It's great for brazing also. I remember doing a cast gear box repair and it worked great.
I one time years ago watched a forging demonstration at an antique tractor show (yearly) and when they were done forging they buried the part in lime so it would cool slowly. I had a hydraulic cylinder mount break off on my 1954 ford tractor. I welded it with a rod made for cast iron and then since I did not have lime, I buried it in dry mason's sand in our riding arena overnight. been 15 years and still going strong. Really like the heating table and your explanation of its use. It is a prerequisite to heat cast iron before welding and cool slowly like you said or the next mooring you will be sadly disappointed.
as a retired master mechanic who also is certified as an engineer for a tourist railroad, I enjoyed watching you repair the coupler ; I don't much care for snow either, too many years of it and slush dripping on me under vcehicles in the winter!!!
@@TopperMachineLLC same here, even went and got double "D" bi focals for under dash work ( to see color code on 18 -22 Guage wiring) got tired of wrapping my feet around head rests though
I wish I would have thought to shoot just the feeder and the amperage meter. I was going to switch to my 1/16" wire, but didn't want to take the time. And for a cosmetic job, didn't really warrant it.
I am a retired locomotive engineer. FYI, broken drawbars (which is what this is) are NEVER the engineer's fault for rough train handling. Broken knuckles could be, depending upon the percentage of old break (pre-existing cracks). The solution to showing that it is an old break, even if it is new, is to cause rapid weathering of the break. This is best accomplished by simply relieving oneself on the new break. This is important, because broken knuckles are simply discarded along the right-of-way, and will inevitably be inspected the next day by the Road Foreman of Engines in an effort to impose discipline upon the engineer. An equipment failure causing delayed operations is charged to the Mechanical Department, so those clowns always want to blame the engineer.
lol As a retired carman I have bad ordered hundreds of cars for cracked couplers. It was always a fight with management. Shift foreman would actually come out and say, "the crack is so small". They didn't understand that the part of the crack you can't see may be huge. Cracked couplers are caused by a defect in the casting and may never result in a visible crack. My crew would never even apply a welder's ground clamp on a coupler.
Incredible repair job. You have my utmost respect. I never really thought about it before with the couplers being cast. I'm not sure about cast steel but I believe cast iron is weak in tension. The customer sounds like they are paranoid. I'll bet that repair would would stand up to actual service.
Only suggestion I have for this type of repair is I would NEVER use hardwire but, rather Dual Shield Flux Core instead. I've done tons of repairs on casting type materials and I've always found FCAW MIG to be far superior. Especially when done correctly like you are doing with proper proper cleaning, prep work, and pre-heating such as presented here in this video. The deposition and welding properties overall are just way better than any hardwire application for a near 99% success rate of this type of repair. It's also why ALL Heavy Equipment made in the USA and abroad is fabricated with FCAW process as well. The only process I've found better than this (But, far more time consuming) is either TIG brazing or outright Brazing the repair but, no body got time for that mess. (But, it works ;) ) They make Stick Welding Rods that are made for such repairs but, in my experience they are simply way too expensive and time consuming in comparison and still not as good in my experience to simple FCAW-MIG welding with proper prep work and pre-heating. And yes I get that this repair isn't even an option in the locomotive industry.
Usually when a coupler breaks, it is just the knuckle. I've seen a few of those on RUclips. Also I once saw a broken draft gear box. The car (a gondola) it was mounted on looked pretty beat up from living a hard life hauling scrap metal for the steel industry. That car was scrapped on the spot. Your video is very informative and educational. Keep up the good work. Guy Franks
I've seen some pretty messed up couplers and draft gear. It's rare to break a shank, but this is the 3rd one I've seen this year. The other 2 we're in interchange service and had to be replaced for legal reasons. This one being a static display was a good opportunity to try my hand at it.
Reminds me of years ago when I was helping load grain hoppers at the local COOP. We had two sidings and were alternating between the two and loading cars without stopping to get half a train loaded for turnaround without penalty. I was cutting out cars and the sidings ran downhill toward the facility so I'd cut a car loose and then set the brake lightly and open the knuckle so the yard trackmobile could snag the empty and stage it. When they were loaded then we would cross the highway and go thru the switches and out on the main. I got about 80% of the way back thru the cars when I opened a knuckle and it rolled out of the coupler and nearly landed on my foot. The pin was completely missing. I looked all the way up the siding and never found it.
Assuming there is a facility for testing said item to destruction further analysis would be required before making it a test piece for educational purposes .
Watching your channel you learn the difference between the the correct way and the wrong way of doing a welding job You show all the little tricks of the trade Thanks
I am only a hobby welder but I did take a welding class a very long time ago. I remember in class doing cast iron gas welding but it was not as thick as the coupler. I remember about the gouging and the preheat and post heat; I just never had to do that kind of weld. There was something about oil quenching but I do not remember when that is needed. I am glad that you were able to do the job and the confidence that you have in your work. I was waiting for you to clean and buff the entire part; to make it look better than brand new. You did a great job on the video and a great job on multi pass welding. I just finished a scoop shovel bird sculpture and there is a video on my channel. It is always good to see you. Yes the snow will be here soon.😃😃😃😃😃🐾🐾🦮🦮Rocky is a good dog!
Hi Alan, this job was actually an easy one compared to some I've had on this table. I did an obsolete cast iron gear case once that was totally blown apart. About 12 pieces, and it's still running strong. This job was easy as it's just steel. I never learned about quenching, just the heat aspect. Definitely wish I knew more about all the shop processes, but sometimes you gotta learn as you go. Gotta run, rocky wants to go to work!
Absolutely amazing you did all that work on a coupler that they intended to NEVER use and then they get scared out and scrapped all you did for them because some few had their delicate sensibilties nearly destroyed only by thinking something might go wrong. Got pretty much the same type coupler on two GE 44 ton units I used to be associated with.
Was told a long time ago from a wise old journeyman the difference between a Machinist and a good Machinist is that a good Machinist can make a repair or cover a mistake so well that no one would ever be able to tell the difference a bead blast or the whole thing would have really covered your tracks but as you said a little time to rust and no one will ever know. You obviously fall in the upper level of the good Machinist category can't wait for the day our paths cross
Thank you. Skills are improved over time and practice. I have had a lot of practice to make things right. When I started my journey, I made a lot of mistakes and had to learn how to fix them. Some were very expensive, but that is how I learned to be the best I could be and continue to improve.
Use 35% strength hydrogen peroxide and brush it over the welded area and it will rust out much the same as the surrounding knuckle (may require several brush coats after each dries), then brass wire brush it to blend it in to totally match as original.
Draino toilet bowl cleaner will rust it up overnight if it’s humid out or dew. It’s common to do on animal traps to make them virtually invisible under water against the bottom.
I waited until the end to see if you would use a descaler to stimulate the the casting. I once took the front of a John Deere model B row crop and grafted it to an Allis Chalmers G model garden tractor that I put a custom made adapters to make a high crop rear axle. So that it is a row crop high crop which was never made by the factory, I also took an all factory original G model and made it in to a high crop which was never made from the factory, but had after market kits made to make it a high crop. Where the Deere logo was I ground it down and used a plasma cutter to make the Allis Chalmers Logo for the front and after welding it on and grinding the welds down so it looks like it was cast in I heated it up so it was starting to turn orange and hit it with a descaler and it was impossible to tell from the factory rough cast of the original tractor. It was good enough that the steam engine show in Pawnee okla. Had some Allis Chalmers experts that grade restored tractor's believed it was a ultra rare prototype that was rumoured to have been made and destroyed back in the early fifty's and wanted to display it in the factory museum it wasn't until I showed the build pictures that they agreed it was the best they had seen and still wish to display it but the owner my uncle doesn't want to.
Burner table works great, perfect winter work 👌. Nice cosmetic repair, weld section looks equal to original section. Bit of shot peening as well ✔. Snow!, not much here in the UK 🇬🇧 thankfully, though I have worked in Iowa, Michigan, and Ontario Canada during the winter, brr!!! Great Job Josh, interesting item. Thanks for sharing 👍
I wish I could just stockpile all these jobs for winter. I've done repairs on this table when it's 95°F outside. Gets impossible to see when the sweat is pouring into your eyes. You peel your clothes off at the end of the day because they are drenched. 🤮 miserable work, but the end result is rewarding.
Hi Topper, great page. I am very excited to see someone in the small town of Spooner. Alot of my family live there. My wife is from there. Miss the place, living in Green Bay is not to far to drive but hard depending on the weather.
The result by the couch experts comments after this video is definitely the reason why Josh doesn't show all his jobs on RUclips. He has to protect himself, his business and his customers. I definitely enjoyed this repair of the coupler and have no doubt in the quality
That was a sound proper repair. I really like your preheat table. I will making a larger one as I repair cast steel, cast iron potbelly, and Franklin wood stoves . I also repair cast iron tractor 3point hitch mounts and implements
You won't regret making one of these tables. I will do a video explaining how it works and was put together once some new parts arrive for it. I am adding an adjustable regulator to control the flame better.
I would start shutting off the burner while your welding though, the updraft from the burner will definitely mess with your shielding gas if your running MIG or TIG. You could rig a simple push button grill igniter on it for easier relights.
Glad to see you have some sense. I've left comments for other well known youtubers recommending that they put a burner under their large castings while they braze or weld and it just falls on deaf ears. They keep trying to keep heat in it and braze with a rose bud and it just makes a mess. I couldn't see your regulator. Is it adjustable? TSC carries an adjustable regulator that allows you to crank up the flame a bit more if you need to. A turkey fryer regulator is about the same. For small or thin cast parts, I've used a big cheap cast iron pan as a heat sink to hold the part and keep the heat regulated as well. But anyway...love the table setup that beats the old cast iron gas burner on a work bench for sure 👍
Thank you, sir. It is funny how some guys have no sense on doing these kinds of repairs. I built this for one little job and its been a godsend. There is no better way to keep these parts warm, it is a struggle to do anything else. I just ordered an adjustable regulator with armored hose, so I can really get the work done. I will put up a video of the table as soon as I get the parts and time. I started making a video when I put it together and thought I should not show this as someone will have a fit. But, definitely gonna show this table in detail coming up. Thank you again.
I’m very curious as to what piece of equipment this coupler came off of. The only rolling stock I know that uses such short shank couplers are the front ends of some steam locomotives and the rear coupler of EMD FTs. Also, it’s common practice to weld locomotive truck frames. Weld them up an put them in a huge heat treat oven. If this piece of equipment is in a museum, and depending on their operation, they may not be considered part of the national rail system and exempt from FRA jurisdiction. Furthermore, AAR rules only cover equipment used in interchange service between railroads.
I lived there for 38 years and saw snow 4 times. In Gauteng/Transvaal we used to have a sprinkling of snow that would stay for a day or two about every 7 years usually in spring, hail was a bigger menace and occasionally caused major property and crop damage. Many of the high passes in the Drakensberg get snow every year but it does not last very long usually. Now living in Finland and the snow here is a given, the duration and depth are the only variables.
Good job. I learned a lot from watching this excellent repair. If you hear a knock on your door in the middle of the night head out the back into those cold north woods.
I was just in Spooner a few days ago. I vacationed in Birchwood doing some filming of the CN around there as well as tracing where the "Blueberry" and the "Oklahoma" railroads came through that area.
Nice looking repair JT. You need to patent that preheater. You could name it the stopsitfromcrakin. Looks like you're in God's country and Rocky adds a lot to the vids. Keep up the good work.
Nice work Josh. Am interested in the preheat/post heat and normalising process you used on the large coupler. I am HD mechanic and often have to weld and repair large machine parts with heavy welds. Always keen the learn more to be better at my job. This is the process you used as I understand it. You preheat to 317f, and kept the burner going at this temp while welding, pausing after each weld allowing the weld area to cool to match the parent material before proceeding.The post heat, I assume you let the couples and welds reach the same temp for a while? Did the normalising process occur as you were welding and pausing? etc. Or do you need to heat to a higher temperature for a longer period post welding? You placed the burner on lower temp at completion of work while you had lunch. (What is the lower temp you use)? Then switched off the burner and let it cool over night. Did you cover while cooling? Thanks
Josh...Like your preheat table....Good idea...I think I'll build one! Welding construction equipment it will come handy...Better then wrapping in asbestos blanket....SEE..You'll never stop learning some thing...Thanks Josh...as my Father always said..."Don't get hurt".......................Robbie
You should build one. The burner is just the unit out of an old gas oven. Super simple. I do plan to add an adjustable regulator to it for a little finer control, but its been a money maker.
its funny, i was reading the title "repairing a Broken Locomotive Coupler..." and i immediately thought "Thats not legal!" before finishing reading it. 🤣 The forces exerted on those couplers are insane!
yeah. decades ago I was taught that the knuckles were only good for about 1 million pounds of tractive pull. On a long train, from standing start, if the engineer just whacks the throttle wide open, the knuckle will break on about the 6th car behind the engine. as a brakeman, you had to be able to carry and replace a broken 95 pound knuckle. the shock loads on those knuckles and drawbars will give you pause for thought.
Seems a part like this could be _signed_ at the repair site indicating it's no longer for service use. Although it seems the repair is better than new.
My weld inspector took a quick look at it and told me to get a couple NDTs done and if it passes should be good to go. But, the railroads would still probably not accept it.
@@TopperMachineLLC Check the AAR field manual for proper repair. You will never be qualified to be a coupler repair shop unless you give Ian Jefferies $Millions.
@@wadestanton I would never do this repair for an operating piece. Since it was a static display, i have no issues. I've dealt with the FRA enough over 20 years to know they are morons with vendettas and just want to fine everyone. No Thanks!!!
Here in Australia, we moved North 30 years ago for a warmer climate. I hate the winter and even here, it's a bit cold, but nowhere near as bad as where we came from.
@@liberty7835 being how every car has brakes on every wheel, there isn't much stress on this part. All the stress is from getting the train going and pulling grades
Great job again Josh. Wondering why you didnt try electric arc gouging instead of the torch. Oh and thanks for the heads up on the weather forecast....So now can figure 18-24hrs and that crap will be here too.....
Thanks. I haven't been using the air-arc indoors. Just too messy. The plasma torch did an amazing job. I started with the oxy-propane and quickly switched to plaz.
It is great to see the snow but I am looking forward to the warm weather again. Great repair and it looks really good. It looked like a really heavy part to be moving around
I thought that coupler would have to be cast steel, even though it looked like cast iron, which would not have been strong enough for that application. Looks like you really laid the amps into it. What was the amperage setting on the welder?
Is it true that a engineer can break couplings by accelerating a long train before slack is removed from cars at the end of the train? Is that cast steel or or malleable iron? I would like to know how much impact is required.
A coupler can break by impact if it has a crack due to defect in casting. A good coupler will come out of its pocket or bend due to impact. The 'coupling' between cars may break in your scenario because of the knuckle failing.
Excellent question, and yes it did. Stamped in a few spots, somewhat hidden from public view, along with a laminated tag inside the body attached to the pin lifter.
I would imagine such part shall come with documentation if it is to be used on a locomotive. At least a 3.1 certificate, but probably also ASME or CE declaration of conformity.
Normally I don't just like and subscribe to a channel and vid but the moment I opened this vid. I realized it was something special. It was a few min later I realized it was not a mistake, The moment I realized he had a heater for cast welding and saw him cutting with the torch, I realized this was the read deal.
So much for the nice weather you were having, great one day and then *********** the next day. Even though it's spring here in Australia now, we had a cold snap recently, almost back to winter again. But it's warmed up again now.
Josh that's an excellent repair. I wouldn't be afread of putting that into service either. Thanks for sharing this process Josh. Take care, have a great day and Stay Warm!
Cool repair Josh...if the oxy-fuel torch was able to cut that, the same as steel, then that coupler is cast steel [not cast iron] cast iron will not burn, just melt. The preheat/post heat you did was the charm "that will work" IMHO and keep you out of jail lol!
@@TopperMachineLLC So many of the comments said cast iron, I aimed my comment at them, not you Josh. Sorry for the confusion on my part, you have a great channel!
@@AWDJRforRUclips no problem. It's funny how there is so much confusion between cast steel and cast iron. Both require totally different processes in making and repairing, yet people use the term universally. Kind of like brass and bronze. You would never use brass for a bushing, yet everyone calls them brass bushings. 🤦♂️
You called this a fillit weld so is that the same as a through penetration weld or different because there is such a large area to fill back in the way you cut it out here to line up right? (Not sure if its fillit or fill it or spelled completely different)
I've been thinking along those lines, but some of the stuff I've done is bigger than the table. I've even considered a box that I can lower onto the part, but again, you're restricted to one size. I'll come up with something yet.
If anything cast says a date on it, it means the pattern or mold was made at the time. Even worse, it could be that the *original* pattern or mold was made then, then a copy of that pattern was made and cast later. For popular products that have been produced unchanged for a long time, it could have been made decades later in a different factory on a different continent than the first batch.
I would run it. We use the same methods on excavator buckets and arms and have never had a problem. I guess you could use Themite to do it the way the rail road seams track lays but that weld looked just fine to me but if you would get in trouble, it is not worth the risk.
It looked an awful lot like the heat from the burner was carrying your shielding gas away. I could hear and see it happening when you started and stopped due to the overabundance amount of sparks and and volcano like spew of sparks when you started and stopped welding. That pre and post heat table is an excellent idea and I have never seen such a handy tool though I wouldn't run it while welding.
Hi Josh, Keith is pretty interested about this device. 1/ When was the actual time line. You had the sun shining with the shop was open. Friday in my area, Thursday was fantastic, not today. I'm much further south, versus your location. 2/ I love your pre-heat table, very nice. My 24 Hp Kohler tractor is ready for winter. Have a pleasant weekend.
Depends, did your friend weld, then grind, paint and rub grease and dirt over the weld. That would be a fraudulent repair if your friend charged for it, no statute of limitations on fraud.
The railroad would never repair a part like this they would replace it with a new one. The railroad would not sub contract any services. I tore the tag off my mattress .
The risk as I see it is that some day in the future the display gets dismantled and parts are sold for spares. Not at all likely but just a remote possibility down the road. Perfect storms happen and I understand why they decided to scrap it.
Served as a Conductor for 41 years with Southern Pacific then Union Pacific. UP would have considered that break as new and blamed the engineer every time. It was nearly never the engineer’s fault. Through the years with reduction in manpower inspections went by the way side. UP’s motto was blame the guy operating at the time of failure. Write up the report for the FRA and force re-train the engineer that did nothing wrong…..
*UPDATE* my customer watched the video and read some of the comments and got a little freaked out. They decided to scrap the coupler, but still paid me for the work. I had my NDT(Non Destructive Test) vendor come and check it out. It passed with flying colors! Infact the weld looked better than the surrounding material, excellent fusion of base materials. My weld inspector watched the video and called to confirm my process. To say the least, he was happy. But it will go to scrap, even though it is stamped "Repaired, Not For Interchange". Better to be safe than sorry! *UPDATE*
MIG welding on Cast is a horrible idea. Either braise it or use nickel filler rod for cast iron. Issue welding with steel will cause crystallization in the cast making it very brittle.
Topper: My comment is for others that are seeking to replace cast iron components, not negative against you.
@@guytech7310 I have read the comments and its funny how people don't understand the difference between cast iron and cast steel. It is like the difference between brass and bronze, people use the term brass universally, but they are nowhere near the same material.
@@TopperMachineLLC Was it Cast Steel? Maybe you mentioned that I missed that. I presumed it was cast Iron.
@@guytech7310 cast steel. Said it several times throughout the video.
@@guytech7310 I doubt that railroads would ever use cast iron for RR couplers. Great welding and great video!
I got to tell you how much I have enjoyed all of your videos. Your sense of humor and willingness to admit errors just proves to me that you are human and hold yourself to a high standard. Being a professional mechanic I have my wall of reality where I keep my mistakes displayed to remind me to always double check my work and never assume that I remembered to torque all fasteners. Hats off to a true craftsman.
Im certified through the railroad for repair . We welded on and repaired couplers on a regular basis . I still repair cars . Thers always someone thats gonna cry !
That welding table with the burner underneath is a great little setup. Very Clever.
I can't even remember now what job I built it for. I started making a video on it and then thought some idiot would try to build one and blow themselves up. It's great for brazing also. I remember doing a cast gear box repair and it worked great.
@@TopperMachineLLC bet it works great in the summer for HOTDOGS 🌭 😋.
@@TopperMachineLLC Is that pretty much just a piece of bar grating over an over/broiler burner?
@@richardbause2453 I was thinking Steak.
@@malfunctionjunction6212 this time of the year ,🦌🦃 venison & turkey burgers 🍔 😋 😀 ,
Smothered in peppers 🌶 and onions 🌰 😋.
I one time years ago watched a forging demonstration at an antique tractor show (yearly) and when they were done forging they buried the part in lime so it would cool slowly. I had a hydraulic cylinder mount break off on my 1954 ford tractor. I welded it with a rod made for cast iron and then since I did not have lime, I buried it in dry mason's sand in our riding arena overnight. been 15 years and still going strong. Really like the heating table and your explanation of its use. It is a prerequisite to heat cast iron before welding and cool slowly like you said or the next mooring you will be sadly disappointed.
as a retired master mechanic who also is certified as an engineer for a tourist railroad, I enjoyed watching you repair the coupler ; I don't much care for snow either, too many years of it and slush dripping on me under vcehicles in the winter!!!
22 years wrenching on EMDs myself for fun. I mostly enjoy electrical troubleshooting.
@@TopperMachineLLC same here, even went and got double "D" bi focals for under dash work ( to see color code on 18 -22 Guage wiring) got tired of wrapping my feet around head rests though
2strokes a joke GE!GE!
@@joewithrow2345 I think the mechanics in those Asian countries are contortionist.
I hate working on a vehicle dropping water/snow on my face it’s the worst!!!
Its nice being able to see that Spool of wire as your working. Helps us appreciate just how much material your putting down on this job.
I wish I would have thought to shoot just the feeder and the amperage meter. I was going to switch to my 1/16" wire, but didn't want to take the time. And for a cosmetic job, didn't really warrant it.
I am a retired locomotive engineer. FYI, broken drawbars (which is what this is) are NEVER the engineer's fault for rough train handling. Broken knuckles could be, depending upon the percentage of old break (pre-existing cracks). The solution to showing that it is an old break, even if it is new, is to cause rapid weathering of the break. This is best accomplished by simply relieving oneself on the new break. This is important, because broken knuckles are simply discarded along the right-of-way, and will inevitably be inspected the next day by the Road Foreman of Engines in an effort to impose discipline upon the engineer. An equipment failure causing delayed operations is charged to the Mechanical Department, so those clowns always want to blame the engineer.
lol As a retired carman I have bad ordered hundreds of cars for cracked couplers. It was always a fight with management. Shift foreman would actually come out and say, "the crack is so small". They didn't understand that the part of the crack you can't see may be huge. Cracked couplers are caused by a defect in the casting and may never result in a visible crack. My crew would never even apply a welder's ground clamp on a coupler.
Can confirm 👍
Yep. Pissed on a few knuckles in my day.
I have been a conductor for close to 20 years, if I like the engineer the knuckle gets tossed in the woods.
@@opiumextract2934 😁😁😁
Have to love Rocky, he is always ready to go to work. Have a great week end. You can name the pre heat grill 'Locomotive Breath' !
Incredible repair job. You have my utmost respect. I never really thought about it before with the couplers being cast. I'm not sure about cast steel but I believe cast iron is weak in tension. The customer sounds like they are paranoid. I'll bet that repair would would stand up to actual service.
That looks perfect! Very well done! Your "hot table" is invaluable for a job like this.
Only suggestion I have for this type of repair is I would NEVER use hardwire but, rather Dual Shield Flux Core instead.
I've done tons of repairs on casting type materials and I've always found FCAW MIG to be far superior. Especially when done correctly like you are doing with proper proper cleaning, prep work, and pre-heating such as presented here in this video. The deposition and welding properties overall are just way better than any hardwire application for a near 99% success rate of this type of repair. It's also why ALL Heavy Equipment made in the USA and abroad is fabricated with FCAW process as well.
The only process I've found better than this (But, far more time consuming) is either TIG brazing or outright Brazing the repair but, no body got time for that mess. (But, it works ;) ) They make Stick Welding Rods that are made for such repairs but, in my experience they are simply way too expensive and time consuming in comparison and still not as good in my experience to simple FCAW-MIG welding with proper prep work and pre-heating.
And yes I get that this repair isn't even an option in the locomotive industry.
Nice touch using the needle gun to texture the weld. The first snow in Alaska we often call termination dust. Thanks for the video !
I have heard that this is a stress relief process more than cosmetic.. no idea if true or not..
Usually when a coupler breaks, it is just the knuckle. I've seen a few of those on RUclips. Also I once saw a broken draft gear box. The car (a gondola) it was mounted on looked pretty beat up from living a hard life hauling scrap metal for the steel industry. That car was scrapped on the spot. Your video is very informative and educational. Keep up the good work. Guy Franks
I've seen some pretty messed up couplers and draft gear. It's rare to break a shank, but this is the 3rd one I've seen this year. The other 2 we're in interchange service and had to be replaced for legal reasons. This one being a static display was a good opportunity to try my hand at it.
Reminds me of years ago when I was helping load grain hoppers at the local COOP. We had two sidings and were alternating between the two and loading cars without stopping to get half a train loaded for turnaround without penalty. I was cutting out cars and the sidings ran downhill toward the facility so I'd cut a car loose and then set the brake lightly and open the knuckle so the yard trackmobile could snag the empty and stage it. When they were loaded then we would cross the highway and go thru the switches and out on the main. I got about 80% of the way back thru the cars when I opened a knuckle and it rolled out of the coupler and nearly landed on my foot. The pin was completely missing. I looked all the way up the siding and never found it.
I have seen them without pins for years. The pin only holds it in when open. Doesn't do any work. The newest cars I've seen have a plastic pin.
Have you tried needle scaling the welds immediately after each pass to relieve stress? It has helped with my heavier projects.
i thought it was mandatory to peen it as soon as you can set down the torch. i guess a good preheat is enough.
Great video Josh. There are to many people, quick to judge even though they don't listen to the facts. Keep them coming Bud!
Those who don't follow the facts will never achieve greatness! Thanks for watching!
Would be cool to send this off to the railroad technology center to get destructively tested to see what would break.
Assuming there is a facility for testing said item to destruction further analysis would be required before making it a test piece for educational purposes .
@@waynesherlock6789 there is a place... it's called the railroad technology center
@@BNSFfan1996 The AAR has a facility and there is a national lab outside of Pueblo, CO.
Watching your channel you learn the difference between the the correct way and the wrong way of doing a welding job You show all the little tricks of the trade Thanks
I am only a hobby welder but I did take a welding class a very long time ago. I remember in class doing cast iron gas welding but it was not as thick as the coupler. I remember about the gouging and the preheat and post heat; I just never had to do that kind of weld. There was something about oil quenching but I do not remember when that is needed. I am glad that you were able to do the job and the confidence that you have in your work. I was waiting for you to clean and buff the entire part; to make it look better than brand new. You did a great job on the video and a great job on multi pass welding. I just finished a scoop shovel bird sculpture and there is a video on my channel. It is always good to see you. Yes the snow will be here soon.😃😃😃😃😃🐾🐾🦮🦮Rocky is a good dog!
Hi Alan, this job was actually an easy one compared to some I've had on this table. I did an obsolete cast iron gear case once that was totally blown apart. About 12 pieces, and it's still running strong. This job was easy as it's just steel. I never learned about quenching, just the heat aspect. Definitely wish I knew more about all the shop processes, but sometimes you gotta learn as you go. Gotta run, rocky wants to go to work!
Don't let them railroad you into the pen. Great repair. If I had a train I would let you fix it. Keep on keeping on.
Awesome work - and a lovely intro and outro tune.
I like your easy and unobtrusive way of doing heavy work
Absolutely amazing you did all that work on a coupler that they intended to NEVER use and then they get scared out and scrapped all you did for them because some few had their delicate sensibilties nearly destroyed only by thinking something might go wrong. Got pretty much the same type coupler on two GE 44 ton units I used to be associated with.
Was told a long time ago from a wise old journeyman the difference between a Machinist and a good Machinist is that a good Machinist can make a repair or cover a mistake so well that no one would ever be able to tell the difference a bead blast or the whole thing would have really covered your tracks but as you said a little time to rust and no one will ever know. You obviously fall in the upper level of the good Machinist category can't wait for the day our paths cross
Thank you. Skills are improved over time and practice. I have had a lot of practice to make things right. When I started my journey, I made a lot of mistakes and had to learn how to fix them. Some were very expensive, but that is how I learned to be the best I could be and continue to improve.
Use 35% strength hydrogen peroxide and brush it over the welded area and it will rust out much the same as the surrounding knuckle (may require several brush coats after each dries), then brass wire brush it to blend it in to totally match as original.
You know the FRA can fine and imprison you for doing that? Canada has even stricter penalties. Lac-Mégantic would prob give the death penalty.
@@wadestanton the town of Lac-Mégantic would throw you in a large caldron of burning crude oil!
@@rearspeaker6364 I've read the final report, crazy story with failures of every sort.
I wouldnt mess with 35% hydrogen peroxide either
Draino toilet bowl cleaner will rust it up overnight if it’s humid out or dew. It’s common to do on animal traps to make them virtually invisible under water against the bottom.
I'm in Wisconsin too, that's just the weather. Look on the bright side it wasn't 2 feet of snow 😂😂
Not yet!!!
I waited until the end to see if you would use a descaler to stimulate the the casting. I once took the front of a John Deere model B row crop and grafted it to an Allis Chalmers G model garden tractor that I put a custom made adapters to make a high crop rear axle. So that it is a row crop high crop which was never made by the factory, I also took an all factory original G model and made it in to a high crop which was never made from the factory, but had after market kits made to make it a high crop. Where the Deere logo was I ground it down and used a plasma cutter to make the Allis Chalmers Logo for the front and after welding it on and grinding the welds down so it looks like it was cast in I heated it up so it was starting to turn orange and hit it with a descaler and it was impossible to tell from the factory rough cast of the original tractor. It was good enough that the steam engine show in Pawnee okla. Had some Allis Chalmers experts that grade restored tractor's believed it was a ultra rare prototype that was rumoured to have been made and destroyed back in the early fifty's and wanted to display it in the factory museum it wasn't until I showed the build pictures that they agreed it was the best they had seen and still wish to display it but the owner my uncle doesn't want to.
Burner table works great, perfect winter work 👌.
Nice cosmetic repair, weld section looks equal to original section. Bit of shot peening as well ✔.
Snow!, not much here in the UK 🇬🇧 thankfully, though I have worked in Iowa, Michigan, and Ontario Canada during the winter, brr!!!
Great Job Josh, interesting item.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I wish I could just stockpile all these jobs for winter. I've done repairs on this table when it's 95°F outside. Gets impossible to see when the sweat is pouring into your eyes. You peel your clothes off at the end of the day because they are drenched. 🤮 miserable work, but the end result is rewarding.
Coupler is cast steel I presume, not iron? Preheat table is a brilliant idea!
Cast iron would never hold up. Way back they were wrought iron, wheels too.
Hi Topper, great page. I am very excited to see someone in the small town of Spooner. Alot of my family live there. My wife is from there. Miss the place, living in Green Bay is not to far to drive but hard depending on the weather.
The result by the couch experts comments after this video is definitely the reason why Josh doesn't show all his jobs on RUclips.
He has to protect himself, his business and his customers.
I definitely enjoyed this repair of the coupler and have no doubt in the quality
That was a sound proper repair. I really like your preheat table. I will making a larger one as I repair cast steel, cast iron potbelly, and Franklin wood stoves . I also repair cast iron tractor 3point hitch mounts and implements
You won't regret making one of these tables. I will do a video explaining how it works and was put together once some new parts arrive for it. I am adding an adjustable regulator to control the flame better.
I would start shutting off the burner while your welding though, the updraft from the burner will definitely mess with your shielding gas if your running MIG or TIG. You could rig a simple push button grill igniter on it for easier relights.
12:14 All I was thinking about was how I would needle scale the ground areas to get that cast texture, and sure enough there's the needle scaler!
Glad to see you have some sense. I've left comments for other well known youtubers recommending that they put a burner under their large castings while they braze or weld and it just falls on deaf ears. They keep trying to keep heat in it and braze with a rose bud and it just makes a mess. I couldn't see your regulator. Is it adjustable? TSC carries an adjustable regulator that allows you to crank up the flame a bit more if you need to. A turkey fryer regulator is about the same. For small or thin cast parts, I've used a big cheap cast iron pan as a heat sink to hold the part and keep the heat regulated as well. But anyway...love the table setup that beats the old cast iron gas burner on a work bench for sure 👍
Thank you, sir. It is funny how some guys have no sense on doing these kinds of repairs. I built this for one little job and its been a godsend. There is no better way to keep these parts warm, it is a struggle to do anything else. I just ordered an adjustable regulator with armored hose, so I can really get the work done. I will put up a video of the table as soon as I get the parts and time. I started making a video when I put it together and thought I should not show this as someone will have a fit. But, definitely gonna show this table in detail coming up. Thank you again.
I’m very curious as to what piece of equipment this coupler came off of. The only rolling stock I know that uses such short shank couplers are the front ends of some steam locomotives and the rear coupler of EMD FTs. Also, it’s common practice to weld locomotive truck frames. Weld them up an put them in a huge heat treat oven. If this piece of equipment is in a museum, and depending on their operation, they may not be considered part of the national rail system and exempt from FRA jurisdiction. Furthermore, AAR rules only cover equipment used in interchange service between railroads.
Sounds like it would have to be an F unit as he said it didn't even have an engine...
I enjoyed your reaction to the snow. I am 55 from South Africa and have never seen snow in my life. In fact where I live now I hardly use a blanket.
I lived there for 38 years and saw snow 4 times. In Gauteng/Transvaal we used to have a sprinkling of snow that would stay for a day or two about every 7 years usually in spring, hail was a bigger menace and occasionally caused major property and crop damage. Many of the high passes in the Drakensberg get snow every year but it does not last very long usually. Now living in Finland and the snow here is a given, the duration and depth are the only variables.
Great job and vid! A good museum should be salivating over that coupler for a display!
Nice weld prep and weld job. That heat table is a great idea. Great finish as well.
I hate winter too; even the watered down version we get here in the UK.
Good job. I learned a lot from watching this excellent repair. If you hear a knock on your door in the middle of the night head out the back into those cold north woods.
Shoot, shovel, and shut up is my motto. Ad I've got new equipment coming to help with the shoveling.
I was just in Spooner a few days ago. I vacationed in Birchwood doing some filming of the CN around there as well as tracing where the "Blueberry" and the "Oklahoma" railroads came through that area.
Nice looking repair JT. You need to patent that preheater. You could name it the stopsitfromcrakin. Looks like you're in God's country and Rocky adds a lot to the vids. Keep up the good work.
I worked in the Car Shops in Centralia ILL ... on the old IC and ICG line ... I saw a lot of those things !!!! back in the 70's
Nice work Josh.
Am interested in the preheat/post heat and normalising process you used on the large coupler. I am HD mechanic and often have to weld and repair large machine parts with heavy welds. Always keen the learn more to be better at my job. This is the process you used as I understand it.
You preheat to 317f, and kept the burner going at this temp while welding, pausing after each weld allowing the weld area to cool to match the parent material before proceeding.The post heat, I assume you let the couples and welds reach the same temp for a while? Did the normalising process occur as you were welding and pausing? etc. Or do you need to heat to a higher temperature for a longer period post welding? You placed the burner on lower temp at completion of work while you had lunch. (What is the lower temp you use)? Then switched off the burner and let it cool over night. Did you cover while cooling?
Thanks
Josh...Like your preheat table....Good idea...I think I'll build one! Welding construction equipment it will come handy...Better then wrapping in asbestos blanket....SEE..You'll never stop learning some thing...Thanks Josh...as my Father always said..."Don't get hurt".......................Robbie
You should build one. The burner is just the unit out of an old gas oven. Super simple. I do plan to add an adjustable regulator to it for a little finer control, but its been a money maker.
That was so cool, thanks for explaining things in such detail. I am just starting to learn how to weld and that was great!
its funny, i was reading the title "repairing a Broken Locomotive Coupler..." and i immediately thought "Thats not legal!" before finishing reading it. 🤣 The forces exerted on those couplers are insane!
yeah. decades ago I was taught that the knuckles were only good for about 1 million pounds of tractive pull. On a long train, from standing start, if the engineer just whacks the throttle wide open, the knuckle will break on about the 6th car behind the engine. as a brakeman, you had to be able to carry and replace a broken 95 pound knuckle. the shock loads on those knuckles and drawbars will give you pause for thought.
Seems a part like this could be _signed_ at the repair site indicating it's no longer for service use.
Although it seems the repair is better than new.
My weld inspector took a quick look at it and told me to get a couple NDTs done and if it passes should be good to go. But, the railroads would still probably not accept it.
@@TopperMachineLLC Check the AAR field manual for proper repair. You will never be qualified to be a coupler repair shop unless you give Ian Jefferies $Millions.
@@wadestanton I would never do this repair for an operating piece. Since it was a static display, i have no issues. I've dealt with the FRA enough over 20 years to know they are morons with vendettas and just want to fine everyone. No Thanks!!!
So.....I guess you understand why I moved to the south 42 years ago.
I wish I could give this more than one heart. I totally understand. Every winter, I consider selling everything and fleeing.
Here in Australia, we moved North 30 years ago for a warmer climate. I hate the winter and even here, it's a bit cold, but nowhere near as bad as where we came from.
Since you did such a good job with that are you required to put a stamp or mark on it as a display unit not for service?
I am not required to, but I did stamp and insert a laminated tag inside the lock mechanism.
It's always been really hard for me to believe that something so small can pull an entire miles-long train.
Thats not what should impress you ! How it stops the dang thing should impress you lol
@@liberty7835 being how every car has brakes on every wheel, there isn't much stress on this part. All the stress is from getting the train going and pulling grades
Excellent repair Josh, great video, keep'um coming.
Great job again Josh. Wondering why you didnt try electric arc gouging instead of the torch. Oh and thanks for the heads up on the weather forecast....So now can figure 18-24hrs and that crap will be here too.....
Thanks. I haven't been using the air-arc indoors. Just too messy. The plasma torch did an amazing job. I started with the oxy-propane and quickly switched to plaz.
It is great to see the snow but I am looking forward to the warm weather again. Great repair and it looks really good. It looked like a really heavy part to be moving around
Hello from Prairie Du Chien Wisconsin, great Video ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
My fathers father used to say if you take the time to do it right you don’t waist time doing it over he was also a fan of saying make haste slowly.
"Don't rush me, I'm makin' mistakes as fast as I can" is one of my favorites when the boss gets on my case. ;-)
*waste
very cool job and awesome table you have there, would love to see you build another, cheers
I thought that coupler would have to be cast steel, even though it looked like cast iron, which would not have been strong enough for that application. Looks like you really laid the amps into it. What was the amperage setting on the welder?
They are cast steel. I think I was right around 260-270 amps. My welder is a 300 amp 100% duty cycle, but capable of 400 for short times.
You should get a trans jack, or a motorcycle jack and mount that table to the jack so you can adjust the height of your work surface.
Is it true that a engineer can break couplings by accelerating a long train before slack is removed from cars at the end of the train? Is that cast steel or or malleable iron? I would like to know how much impact is required.
A coupler can break by impact if it has a crack due to defect in casting. A good coupler will come out of its pocket or bend due to impact. The 'coupling' between cars may break in your scenario because of the knuckle failing.
Is that cast iron or cast steel? What type of wire did you use? Looks like it turned out great and that preheat table is super clever!
Quite a bit of equipment like this don't seem to get grease to keep them from rusting, etc. Just wondering why that is?
Does it get marked so that someone doesn’t dismantle the display and mistake it for a usable coupler?
Excellent question, and yes it did. Stamped in a few spots, somewhat hidden from public view, along with a laminated tag inside the body attached to the pin lifter.
Expecting civilization to crumble and then rebuild that much?
I would imagine such part shall come with documentation if it is to be used on a locomotive. At least a 3.1 certificate, but probably also ASME or CE declaration of conformity.
The stick out out away from the weld on than Mig nozzle looked huge, 1-1.25 inches. Surely not?
definitely an optical delusion. Amazing what a camera sees that isn't there.
Great video! Cast has to be done just right. Kurtis has to build one of your heat tables, lol.
Normally I don't just like and subscribe to a channel and vid but the moment I opened this vid. I realized it was something special. It was a few min later I realized it was not a mistake, The moment I realized he had a heater for cast welding and saw him cutting with the torch, I realized this was the read deal.
Cast steel?
So much for the nice weather you were having, great one day and then *********** the next day. Even though it's spring here in Australia now, we had a cold snap recently, almost back to winter again. But it's warmed up again now.
What type wire and gas did you use?
Josh that's an excellent repair.
I wouldn't be afread of putting that into service either.
Thanks for sharing this process Josh.
Take care, have a great day and Stay Warm!
You must be rich or your name is Ian Jefferies.
What kind of mig wire did you use ty great video
Thanks for all the info. And the idea of the heat table
Cool repair Josh...if the oxy-fuel torch was able to cut that, the same as steel, then that coupler is cast steel [not cast iron] cast iron will not burn, just melt. The preheat/post heat you did was the charm "that will work" IMHO and keep you out of jail lol!
These are definitely cast steel. I believe I said that several times. Cast iron would never take this beating. Years back they were wrought iron.
@@TopperMachineLLC So many of the comments said cast iron, I aimed my comment at them, not you Josh. Sorry for the confusion on my part, you have a great channel!
@@AWDJRforRUclips no problem. It's funny how there is so much confusion between cast steel and cast iron. Both require totally different processes in making and repairing, yet people use the term universally. Kind of like brass and bronze. You would never use brass for a bushing, yet everyone calls them brass bushings. 🤦♂️
You called this a fillit weld so is that the same as a through penetration weld or different because there is such a large area to fill back in the way you cut it out here to line up right? (Not sure if its fillit or fill it or spelled completely different)
Some clip on or fold down screens around that table would get it up to temperature quicker....
🇬🇧☹️
I've been thinking along those lines, but some of the stuff I've done is bigger than the table. I've even considered a box that I can lower onto the part, but again, you're restricted to one size. I'll come up with something yet.
If anything cast says a date on it, it means the pattern or mold was made at the time. Even worse, it could be that the *original* pattern or mold was made then, then a copy of that pattern was made and cast later. For popular products that have been produced unchanged for a long time, it could have been made decades later in a different factory on a different continent than the first batch.
This video would give 'Manny' nightmares...
Cool video
I like that preheat table, great idea!
I would run it. We use the same methods on excavator buckets and arms and have never had a problem. I guess you could use Themite to do it the way the rail road seams track lays but that weld looked just fine to me but if you would get in trouble, it is not worth the risk.
Nice shout. Good, visceral, feeling. Where were you when they were shooting Revenge of the Sith?
What locomotive is this off of? We have a few laying around possibly the right one.
I believe it is for a center cab GE, 44 or 45 ton. I did find another, but would maybe be interested in one myself for another customer.
Awwe, don't you know moving a locomotive coupler west of the Mississippi is bootlegging? Kidding, love your channel. 🙂
Nice repair.
Just a thought but shouldn't you be wearing a face shield when grinding?
He had his safety squints on
Nice job Josh!!
It looked an awful lot like the heat from the burner was carrying your shielding gas away. I could hear and see it happening when you started and stopped due to the overabundance amount of sparks and and volcano like spew of sparks when you started and stopped welding. That pre and post heat table is an excellent idea and I have never seen such a handy tool though I wouldn't run it while welding.
Me too, it might catch on fire !!! lol
I'll add my inquiry into what wire you used . ? ( your neighbors in Minnesota aren't really ready for the snow, either ! )
Hi Josh, Keith is pretty interested about this device. 1/ When was the actual time line. You had the sun shining with the shop was open. Friday in my area, Thursday was fantastic, not today. I'm much further south, versus your location. 2/ I love your pre-heat table, very nice. My 24 Hp Kohler tractor is ready for winter. Have a pleasant weekend.
Weeks ago. Don't remember when I actually shot it all.
Awesome job, I enjoyed watching how you did this,
Thanks, from kiwi land
Was this dual shield? (Gas and flux core)
Hey Josh, Josh here lol, what wire did you use for welding that part?
What was your filler metal
What's the statute of limitations for illegal welding? Asking for a friend.
Depends, did your friend weld, then grind, paint and rub grease and dirt over the weld. That would be a fraudulent repair if your friend charged for it, no statute of limitations on fraud.
Technically, the repair is completely legal. Use in railroad service.AFTER being repaired, THAT'S the illegal part.
What wire are you using?
Its from a D & RG engine, it is a front coupler.
The railroad would never repair a part like this they would replace it with a new one.
The railroad would not sub contract any services.
I tore the tag off my mattress .
That preheat table is brilliant.
Why no blanket during pre-heat?
Lots of beads and time but it turned out well.
The risk as I see it is that some day in the future the display gets dismantled and parts are sold for spares. Not at all likely but just a remote possibility down the road. Perfect storms happen and I understand why they decided to scrap it.
Served as a Conductor for 41 years with Southern Pacific then Union Pacific. UP would have considered that break as new and blamed the engineer every time. It was nearly never the engineer’s fault. Through the years with reduction in manpower inspections went by the way side. UP’s motto was blame the guy operating at the time of failure. Write up the report for the FRA and force re-train the engineer that did nothing wrong…..