Dude this guide was super helpful. I really appreciate it! I'm the type of guy who likes to do his own things, but don't have the knowledge. Step by step, easy to follow. Took me a few days to complete, but got it done! What's next? lol
Thanks for this awesome guide! For those doing the 3.5 tt version, you'll also need to pull out most of the boost pipes. I had to remove the rear turbo oil drain and disconnect the water feed to get the PTO out. If I had to do it again, I would consider dropping the suspension, cradle, roll bar, and steering all as an assembly.
My 2014 is starting kicking when the 3rd gear goes in and feel a delay then the thump. Check the transmission oil and looks clean . Hope I can have it fix and not fully rebuilt. Great work you do Sir.
I may need to replace the subframe in my 2015 Edge, 3.5L V6. Fairly sure its similar stuff under the hood as this Explorer. I've been trying to figure out how to support the engine+trans and remove the steering rack and sway bar from the subframe. The ford tech manual I got my hands on says to support the engine with an engine hoist and only shows how to remove the subframe with the steering rack, sway bar attached. Seems to me the steering rack and sway bar are just a few extra bolts and they can stay up there. Though I'm still stuck on the engine. From some other vids I've seen, it looks like the engine is suspended from supports on top. So I might not need the support? (prob should just cause) The manual also says to dispose of a number of the bolts and replace. Doesn't say it explicitly, but I assume that means they are to be torqued to yield? Is that the case or is the manual just being extra cautious?
We always use straps to hang the rock and pinion from the strut and as long as the balls come out OK there’s no reason to replacing just probably to cover their ass but as long as you leave both the top mounts on it, you won’t have to support the motor
Thanks, great video! 👍 I’ve got 352k miles on mine and the transmission is slipping. Do you think it be worth it to replace the engine as well while doing the transmission and transfer case, or would it be twice as much work?
I hope they put a new PTU in with the new transmission. Barely any fluid came out when you unbolted it. They should have 16oz fluid but the exhaust cooks it up. Definitely recommend anyone doing this procedure to invest in the PTU and modify so it can be drained/filled regularly. The torque converter is another weak point and should be replaced if you're this deep into it.
Have you ever changed a Police Interceptor PTU with the external oil cooler? If so, how do you reinstall the coolant hoses that run back into the PTU? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get them to sit back into the housing. Thanks.@@doingstuffwithdylan4367
You sure do look like you know what you're doing there I wish we had some decent mechanics around here anyway great job man I know soon I'll have to have that done to my 2015 Explorer recently it started jumping and skipping through gear shifts I was advised to put some friction modifier in, it actually straightened out the problem but it still doesn't feel just right I just wonder do you have any idea how long that might get me through?
Do you by chance have a part number for the transmission fluid cooler line seals? The ones on top of the transmission. I believe that’s what they’re called. My transmission (explorer), Is leaking from that line with the 8 mm bolt holding it down, on top. Can’t find the replacement oring seal, if there is one at all. TYIA!!
I just dropped my first transmission on a 2011 Ford explorer note I've been a mechanic for 20 years. Watching your video really made me mad my steering rack I had to buy a one and a quarter inch wrench grind the head down for the box and to get my rack off makes me managers just came off with a quick zap of the gun on another bad side my torque converter will not come off so you have any information about the torque converter either staying on or coming off I would appreciate it
The torque converter is stuck to the fly wheel? If this is the case try 2 pry bars and a helper. If you are talking converter clutch engagement let me know
I have a question some I’m getting a used trans off eBay that has 48k miles on it with warranty and I’m going to be putting it in my 13 Ford Explorer. The number matches up. Will I still have have it towed to the dealer for programming ?
Just curious on the total cost of the removal, rebuild and install. I know it'll be different from shop to shop, but I'm going to have to have my done and wanted maybe a ballpark figure. Thanks for the video BTW, I thought about doing mine myself, but I'm having second thoughts about doing this in my gravel driveway.
Where are you located? If you’re within driving range I’ll bring my explorer to you for the tranny. The shops in my local area are atrocious. Looks like you do solid work.
My 2012 Ford explorer has a p0715 code after it was shuddering. It slammed really hard going into the next gear then the wrench light came on and when i tried to accelerate it barely wants to move and is in one gear. It also sounds bad after that happened.
Sounds like you need a transmission shop. The shudder is the converter going bad. Once that happens it wipes out the rest. Sorry to have to give you the bad news. Thanks for the comment.
You got any tricks to get the rusty bolts off on on the exhaust flex pipe? I tried pb blaster and the blow torch and am still afraid it will break off.
On this particular transmission it’s hard to say. I just remove and reinstall them but generally they slip and stop moving. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Would a 2016 Ecoboost one be much harder since you have to remove that rear manifold? I'm about to tackle one tomorrow and nervous about it being an Ecoboost 😬 any advice is much appreciated 👍
I don’t think it will be much harder. I do plenty of transfer cases on those and the rear cat is not hard to remove. Especially with the subframe out of the way. Did not be nervous just nuts and bolts. Good luck let me know how it goes! Thanks for the comment!
Dude this guide was super helpful. I really appreciate it! I'm the type of guy who likes to do his own things, but don't have the knowledge. Step by step, easy to follow. Took me a few days to complete, but got it done! What's next? lol
Thanks a lot! Really reminds me why I make videos! Glad it was helpful!
Hey brother I've thoroughly enjoyed watching The transformation of that transmission Thanks for the knowledge and the entertainment.
Thanks for the comment and watching!!
Thanks for this awesome guide! For those doing the 3.5 tt version, you'll also need to pull out most of the boost pipes. I had to remove the rear turbo oil drain and disconnect the water feed to get the PTO out. If I had to do it again, I would consider dropping the suspension, cradle, roll bar, and steering all as an assembly.
Thanks for the tips!!
Doing this on the ground on my back rn lol. Not at easy. Great job
I never wish to do that. Better man than me. Good job to you! Thanks for the comment
I found the video interesting, my friend, greeting from Venezuela
My name is Gerardo Salom , very good
Thanks man! Greetings from USA!
My 2014 is starting kicking when the 3rd gear goes in and feel a delay then the thump. Check the transmission oil and looks clean . Hope I can have it fix and not fully rebuilt. Great work you do Sir.
Good luck we see a few of these.
Respect 👌
Thanks!!
Great video! Need more light. Looks like a black hole.
I have since upgraded my lighting.
You are the man. Thanks for making this video. I’m about to tackle one of these tomorrow. How much time did you have in tear down and install.
Probably around 5 hours total. Thanks for watching. Hope it’s helpful!
6/21/24 and i have a 2013 ford explorer thats needs a new transfercase looks like i found my shop
Bring it on over! Let them know I sent you!
I may need to replace the subframe in my 2015 Edge, 3.5L V6. Fairly sure its similar stuff under the hood as this Explorer. I've been trying to figure out how to support the engine+trans and remove the steering rack and sway bar from the subframe. The ford tech manual I got my hands on says to support the engine with an engine hoist and only shows how to remove the subframe with the steering rack, sway bar attached. Seems to me the steering rack and sway bar are just a few extra bolts and they can stay up there. Though I'm still stuck on the engine. From some other vids I've seen, it looks like the engine is suspended from supports on top. So I might not need the support? (prob should just cause)
The manual also says to dispose of a number of the bolts and replace. Doesn't say it explicitly, but I assume that means they are to be torqued to yield? Is that the case or is the manual just being extra cautious?
We always use straps to hang the rock and pinion from the strut and as long as the balls come out OK there’s no reason to replacing just probably to cover their ass but as long as you leave both the top mounts on it, you won’t have to support the motor
Awesome! Quick question, should the trans cooler be replaced with new trans?
Ford recommends it. We flush them. Never had an issue. Thanks for the question!!
Thanks, great video! 👍 I’ve got 352k miles on mine and the transmission is slipping. Do you think it be worth it to replace the engine as well while doing the transmission and transfer case, or would it be twice as much work?
The rest of the car is just as old. Removing the trans and transfer case do provide room to remove the engine. Is your engine bad?
I hope they put a new PTU in with the new transmission. Barely any fluid came out when you unbolted it. They should have 16oz fluid but the exhaust cooks it up. Definitely recommend anyone doing this procedure to invest in the PTU and modify so it can be drained/filled regularly. The torque converter is another weak point and should be replaced if you're this deep into it.
Very true we do a lot of ptu replacements on these! Always use a new converter. Thanks for the info comment and watching!
Have you ever changed a Police Interceptor PTU with the external oil cooler? If so, how do you reinstall the coolant hoses that run back into the PTU? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get them to sit back into the housing. Thanks.@@doingstuffwithdylan4367
Can you a show oil pan r and r please? I was looking for how to “move the transaxle slightly back from the engine”
Sorry I primarily do transmissions. Thanks for comment!
Any thoughts on bolting the transfer case to the trans and then installing them together?
I think the top bottom rear bell housing bolts would be hard to get too. Thanks for the comment.
You sure do look like you know what you're doing there I wish we had some decent mechanics around here anyway great job man I know soon I'll have to have that done to my 2015 Explorer recently it started jumping and skipping through gear shifts I was advised to put some friction modifier in, it actually straightened out the problem but it still doesn't feel just right I just wonder do you have any idea how long that might get me through?
Not really sure. I’m actually a little surprised it straightened out. Good luck and thanks for the comment!
What friction modifier did you use?
Do you by chance have a part number for the transmission fluid cooler line seals? The ones on top of the transmission. I believe that’s what they’re called. My transmission (explorer), Is leaking from that line with the 8 mm bolt holding it down, on top. Can’t find the replacement oring seal, if there is one at all. TYIA!!
No I’m sorry good luck
I just dropped my first transmission on a 2011 Ford explorer note I've been a mechanic for 20 years. Watching your video really made me mad my steering rack I had to buy a one and a quarter inch wrench grind the head down for the box and to get my rack off makes me managers just came off with a quick zap of the gun on another bad side my torque converter will not come off so you have any information about the torque converter either staying on or coming off I would appreciate it
The torque converter is stuck to the fly wheel? If this is the case try 2 pry bars and a helper. If you are talking converter clutch engagement let me know
Thank you. I was scared to do that didn't want want the flex plate to break. My buddy did that once.
I have a question some I’m getting a used trans off eBay that has 48k miles on it with warranty and I’m going to be putting it in my 13 Ford Explorer. The number matches up. Will I still have have it towed to the dealer for programming ?
Probably not. Most fords don’t need programmed. We rebuild them though. Thanks for watching!
Just curious on the total cost of the removal, rebuild and install. I know it'll be different from shop to shop, but I'm going to have to have my done and wanted maybe a ballpark figure. Thanks for the video BTW, I thought about doing mine myself, but I'm having second thoughts about doing this in my gravel driveway.
Right around $3000. Yeah I don’t think I would try it in a driveway let alone gravel. Thanks for watching!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 doing it on concrete in my driveway way. It a lil challenging on you back.
Where are you located? If you’re within driving range I’ll bring my explorer to you for the tranny. The shops in my local area are atrocious. Looks like you do solid work.
Ohio. Thanks for the comment I try.
My 2012 Ford explorer has a p0715 code after it was shuddering. It slammed really hard going into the next gear then the wrench light came on and when i tried to accelerate it barely wants to move and is in one gear. It also sounds bad after that happened.
Sounds like you need a transmission shop. The shudder is the converter going bad. Once that happens it wipes out the rest. Sorry to have to give you the bad news. Thanks for the comment.
You got any tricks to get the rusty bolts off on on the exhaust flex pipe? I tried pb blaster and the blow torch and am still afraid it will break off.
Heat. Oxygen and acetylene
And if they do break heat flange red cherry hot and drive out stud and put through nut and bolt!
Did you use an engine hoist up top?
Nope supported from below.
Better than Mitchell1 haha
Thanks for watching! I try. I have better lighting now!
How long did the entire job take? Removal and reinstall.
I don’t remember exactly. Probably 6 to 8 hours.
Have you ever tried to make one only RWD
It’s the same minus the t case and driveshaft.
Help I swapped mine on my 2013 explorer but now mph needle won't move or go past first gear do I need to reprogram or reflash the transmission?????
Is every thing plugged in? Did you get from junk yard?
Most of the time these do not need reflashed or programmed. No Speedo is likely why it won’t shift. I’d check all the plugs first for bent pins.
You need lights.
I’ve since upgraded my lighting.
Yay! Is this the quickest and easiest way to remove the trans/transaxle unit? @@doingstuffwithdylan4367
Is it easier to pull a motor and then take the transmission off
I don’t think so. Good luck if you go that route
Thats how I do them. I don't have a 2 post lift though, just a midrise that gets the car up about 4ft.
What does something like that cost
Right around 3000 total. Usd. Thanks for asking and watching!!
How many miles did it have on it. Nice work that tranny small as hell.
Not sure man. Thanks! Looks small its kind of heavy though. Thanks for watching!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 ok cool thanks
Curiosity could you tell us what the original customer stated as how we diagnose the transmission?
On this particular transmission it’s hard to say. I just remove and reinstall them but generally they slip and stop moving. Thanks for the comment and watching!
How many mille's?
Not quite sure. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Would a 2016 Ecoboost one be much harder since you have to remove that rear manifold? I'm about to tackle one tomorrow and nervous about it being an Ecoboost 😬 any advice is much appreciated 👍
I don’t think it will be much harder. I do plenty of transfer cases on those and the rear cat is not hard to remove. Especially with the subframe out of the way. Did not be nervous just nuts and bolts. Good luck let me know how it goes! Thanks for the comment!
how much does that job cost?
Right around $3000 usd. Thanks for asking and watching!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 And if the transmission is obtained in a junk car how much would it cost to change it?
Yea.. fuck torque specs.. 🤣
Not sure how I missed this comment? Love it! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Some things I will use specs on. Few. Lol!!
Lighting sucks!
Agreed I’m sorry. I’m trying to get better lighting! Thanks for the feed back!
Did you support engine from top?
I did my think so I would have included it. Thanks for the question!