I built a similar system with 55 gallon food grade barrels several years ago. It was a great backup when my submersible well pump failed. I use it often when the power is out. It allows me to run water throughout the house without starting the generator. There is no perceptible pressure difference. I recommend a surflo filter to pre filter the water before the pump. The toolbox is an interesting concept.
Thanks for another great video. Very informative. I put in a deep well hand pump that can be connected, by hose, to my house so that I can still flush toilets, turn on the sinks, etc. Because of my pumps' location in relation to my elderly neighbors' house, I can run a 100' hose straight into their kitchen or bathroom window, so I know they too can have water if the power goes out. Without water NOBODY will last long. Very important prep.
DUDE!!! A potable rain catcher exists???? my BIGGEST issue right now is getting drinking water. YOU ROCK!!!!! just that side mention solved like 50% of my issues.
Using a pump to transfer the water from the storage container to the point of use has a couple of advantages - but it has a lot of limitations. I prefer using an elevated air-pressure system - where the storage container is a pressure vessel and a compressor pressurizes the elevated container to provide the moving pressure/delivery. Elevated so gravity is always present and is a component of the system. additional pressure is generated by pressurizing the container , if desired. To me this , this is a cheaper and more reliable system - which has the added benefit that in the worst possible case scenario the systems works on gravity alone (somewhat reduced flow + pressure - but still functional) and you could pressurize the container without electricity using a hand pump , if desired.
That's a great idea! But, it does have limitations and caveats. For one thing, pumps don't like to be cycled on and off a lot - even the ones with built in pressure switches. Here is a scenario that would put a lot of stress on a pump like the one you demonstrated: If it has a 3 gallon per minute capacity, but you only need to use 1 gallon per minute, that pump is going to be cycling on and off quite rapidly! That rapid cycling, due to the low demand for water, will wear out the pump MUCH faster! In fact, the number one killer of electric water pumps, like that, is excessive cycling! Now, this is not a new problem. It is a problem that had to be solved over a hundred years ago. The way you solve the problem is to use a pressure tank that is pressurized up to 2 PSI lower than the turn ON pressure for the pump. So, if you have a pump that has a built in pressure switch that turns on at 40 PSI and turns off at 60 PSI, the pressure tank needs to be set to about 38 PSI. By using a pressure tank, smaller demands for water can be handled without having to turn the pump on at all - like when you need to fill a glass of water. One drawback of a pressure tank based system, though, is that the pressure is not consistent. It may start at 60PSI, but as you use water, the pressure will drop. And, the pump won't turn back on until the pressure drops below 40 PSI. And, if you have a large tank, that means that you will have to deal with low pressure for a long time before the pump kicks in to bring the pressure back up. And, if you have a small tank, the pump is going to be cycling more frequently. To address the problem of inconsistent pressure, you can add what is called a. "cycle stop valve." A CSV will sense the amount of water being used and restrict flow from the pump to match the usage. In other words, the CSV would make the 3 gallon per minute pump produce only the needed 1 gallon per minute, rather than cycling it on and off at the 3 gallon per minute rate. This causes the pump to draw less current, which means it is using less power, which means it is also running cooler. And, rather than rapidly cycling between full output and no output, it simply runs longer at a lower rate - something the pump can do much easier and for many more years! The CSV also regulates pressure in the system, regardless of flow, up to the pump's maximum output. So, if it is set for 50 PSI, you will always get 50 PSI while using at least one gallon per minute. A CSV will also allow you to use a smaller five gallon pressure tank, rather than a large one, and still have essentially the same benefits. Of course, these modifications to the system add complexity and cost, but they do make for much more robust performance and longer life. Thanks, for the video!
Thank you for the information, it looks like his setup is more for emergency, but I appreciate this info, because I'm looking for pressurized home water for off grid solutions
I've been doing this for about 20 years. The RV pumps work good for Battery setup, especially during rolling blackouts. Have mine setup to tandem deep cycle. Deep cycle are solar charged
Great setup, except you should put the battery on top (in case of a malfunction so your batt doesn't get wet) and put holes in the top and bottom of the tote (so your battery and pump can "breathe").
That's what I need. I have a solar panel for my well pump and I wonder if I could use it to charge a battery as well. I might as well get as much use out of my solar panel as I can.
I REALLY like your setup!!! You could also set up a small Solar Charging station for those smaller batteries, separate from your house power. A 30 Watt Panel & 10 Amp Charge Controller would work just fine. You could have one battery in your pump box and keep TWO on the Solar on standby at any given time.
'Check your rules and regulations' LOL. Sorry, in California, where a Ruger 10-22 is now classified as an assault rifle, and virtually anything you can think of is probably illegal, that's funny. Awesome setup David. Those are the same pumps we use on our agricultural spray rigs. They're not highly efficient but work really well. A small bit of debris in the valves of the thing will cause it to not pump, so a filter before it and something to keep algae from growing in there is a great addition. With ours, if they over winter they often need to be taken apart and cleaned out to get them running again. Simple enough, just those screws at the end. A solar panel and a charge controller on top of the tote would be double awesome.
Do you mind if I ask the specific make and model pump you use? I bought a 12v pump for our cabin and pull the water from a rain water catch tote and really dissapoint in the pressure. Pump said 5 gallons per minute and 55psi. Not even close.
@@jasoncoleman9000 I would check your height. If you need lift. I have 2 pumps 2 tanks, 1 Big tank#1 up to cabin ( lift 125' pump) to smaller tank#2. Then the smaller pump ( RV size) into cabin from #2 tank ( 300 gal) .RV Shureflo I'm thinkin'... I used a new toilet float in #2 smaller tank as automatic filler and stop overfill from #1 tank. ( I thought that was pretty genius!) Works great!! Gotta make sure no air gets in line to reduce cycling of pumps. Have them hooked to Deep cycles just with alligator clips...
when I copy your set-up, I think that I will strap it to a harbor freight hand truck, and mount a solid connection port on the outlet on the box. excellent idea!
If you need to shut off the municipal water go out to the meter and open the cover. Just before the meter is a valve that you can shut off (turn until it is like ======||======= across the pipe direction). That will keep your water, and pressure, on your side of the municipal connection.
Many places are calling for the use of a back-flow preventer so whenever your inside pressure is higher than the street it will not flow back to the main. This would make it fully automatic.
Good idea, SouthernPrepper1. The big totes of water, could be handy, for people living in areas, where a source of water is needed to put out fires. Out West, homes are always being burnt down, because of out of control, grass, brush and forest fires. if the water tote is connected to a Public Water Supply System of Piping, a backflow prevention valve might be required. It would depend on the set up. (Ask a good plumbing store.) In most places, even a sprinkler system for the lawn, requires the backflow prevention valve, to prevent, unsafe contaminated water, from being pulled back into the drinking water supply. A public bathroom will often have an water outlet for a hose. (See a Walmart bathroom.) There will be a backflow valve on the water outlet for the hose. (If a janitor ever places-leaves the hose in a toilet), the value is suppose to prevent sewage water, from being pulled back into, the drinking water piping. ---------------------------------------- Here it is the law, for South Carolina: South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control ``The Cross Connection Control/Backflow Prevention program is a state mandated program designed to protect the public's drinking water from contamination by identifying and eliminating cross connections.`` `No person shall install, permit to be installed or maintain any cross connection between a public water system and any other non-public water system, sewer or a line from any container of liquids or other substances, unless an approved backflow prevention device or assembly is installed between the public water system and the source of contamination.``
surflow pumps were really popularhere in the uk for canal boats. However, their reliability/lifespan is questionable. I had issues with mine and my boat engineer friend bsicly said replace it they are crap. Well not at £80! Managed to bodge it. Will run it untill it dies.
Awesome idea. We have a cabin in the middle of nowhere and this will be a great way to get a shower and wash up. Thank you. If you're still following this, about how long will a charged battery last running one of these pumps?
I like your idea a lot. Thank you for sharing this method of water with the pump. I hope you can share with me the names of those pumps again so can this down. I have huge bathtub and I can carry I out in small buckets which really hard for me to do in my delicate condition after surgery.
Why don't you reverse them so the battery is on top and the pump on bottom in case of a leak in your pump, unless your battery will do ok under water or at the least maybe drill some holes in the bottom of that case for drainage, you definitely don't want your battery sitting in a case full of water. An ounce of prevention and all. Very nice set up and great idea! I work in the critical power industry uninterruptible power supplies .... Vrla batteries, wet cell batteries and gel cell batteries static switches etc. so I am always trying new stuff at home for off the grid living...next step buying land!
Just a pointer for those wanting to put one of these in their truck... water weighs 7 pounds per gallon so a 200 gallon tank is already too much for a half ton pick up truck. Don't forget to add the weight of the empty tank and anything else you may carry.
I have the same experience as you but why gamble. Especially with modern manufactures poisoning us. I would rather have a white RV hose that is made for drinking water. I have several for potable water uses.
Have you considered mounting a hinged cheap solar panel on top of the water tank and installing an inexpensive charge controller inside the battery box. This will keep the battery topped off and ready when you need it.
I have a charging station for this that is in the chicken coup. I have a bunch of the totes spaced out around the property. So easier to just move the pump box and if a battery gets low change it out. I will do a video on the charging station.
I love the concept and the portability. What's the run time? How many amps does it draw? Could you possibly throw in some links to your "recommended" pumps?
I have one of the HF 110v pumps with the pressure tank that I've used in emergencies several times to pressurize the house from our swimming pool. It's worked great.
If the water leaks it falls on the battery, I would put the battery at the top and the pump below. I know 12v wont kill an adult but its still a design floor that needs some work.
Do you have to open the lid on top of that holding tank to get air flow in order for the pump to work properly? Or does it work fine sealed up and doesn’t create a vacuum? Thanks
For us people who have deep wells and would only need power to keep our pumps going what whould be needed as far as a generator, cause all I would need the generator to run is the fridge, well pump, and water heater? For lighting I got hurricane lanterns, and a grill to cook on.
Hey SP1, I know you probably hear this a lot, but, is there any word on MainePrepper? Myself and others have missed his videos and his calm demeanor. I wish the man nothing but the best, and would love to know how he's getting along.
You talked about the specs of the pumps That were not hook up but what was the specs on the one that you demoed in the video? I'm looking for the best route to go for a pump To suck water out of a 55 gallon drum and to feed a small 6 gallon hot water eater and also a garden hose spicket I'm trying to figure out how many gallons per minute I need and PSII know PSI should be that much of an issue as long as it's 50 or so but I'm worried about the gallons for minute for a garden hose
Could it be connected to an existing well tank to run only when the tank needs to be pressurized? That way it would not stay running all the time water is being used
Is it bad for the pump to not have it free flowing like that ? Isn't the pump gear always turning ? Or is that what the shit off switch is for ? I do have one too
2.3 feet height = 1 psi gain. Roughly 5 psi for each story in a house.... or 23 feet high for 10 psi gain. You can do the rest of the math if you want more.
I built a similar system with 55 gallon food grade barrels several years ago. It was a great backup when my submersible well pump failed. I use it often when the power is out. It allows me to run water throughout the house without starting the generator. There is no perceptible pressure difference. I recommend a surflo filter to pre filter the water before the pump. The toolbox is an interesting concept.
Thanks for another great video. Very informative. I put in a deep well hand pump that can be connected, by hose, to my house so that I can still flush toilets, turn on the sinks, etc. Because of my pumps' location in relation to my elderly neighbors' house, I can run a 100' hose straight into their kitchen or bathroom window, so I know they too can have water if the power goes out. Without water NOBODY will last long. Very important prep.
DUDE!!! A potable rain catcher exists???? my BIGGEST issue right now is getting drinking water. YOU ROCK!!!!! just that side mention solved like 50% of my issues.
Using a pump to transfer the water from the storage container to the point of use has a couple of advantages - but it has a lot of limitations. I prefer using an elevated air-pressure system - where the storage container is a pressure vessel and a compressor pressurizes the elevated container to provide the moving pressure/delivery. Elevated so gravity is always present and is a component of the system. additional pressure is generated by pressurizing the container , if desired. To me this , this is a cheaper and more reliable system - which has the added benefit that in the worst possible case scenario the systems works on gravity alone (somewhat reduced flow + pressure - but still functional) and you could pressurize the container without electricity using a hand pump , if desired.
Was searching the Internet for 2 hours looking for this exact solution, you're the man thanks for your time !
That's a great idea! But, it does have limitations and caveats.
For one thing, pumps don't like to be cycled on and off a lot - even the ones with built in pressure switches. Here is a scenario that would put a lot of stress on a pump like the one you demonstrated:
If it has a 3 gallon per minute capacity, but you only need to use 1 gallon per minute, that pump is going to be cycling on and off quite rapidly! That rapid cycling, due to the low demand for water, will wear out the pump MUCH faster! In fact, the number one killer of electric water pumps, like that, is excessive cycling!
Now, this is not a new problem. It is a problem that had to be solved over a hundred years ago. The way you solve the problem is to use a pressure tank that is pressurized up to 2 PSI lower than the turn ON pressure for the pump. So, if you have a pump that has a built in pressure switch that turns on at 40 PSI and turns off at 60 PSI, the pressure tank needs to be set to about 38 PSI.
By using a pressure tank, smaller demands for water can be handled without having to turn the pump on at all - like when you need to fill a glass of water.
One drawback of a pressure tank based system, though, is that the pressure is not consistent. It may start at 60PSI, but as you use water, the pressure will drop. And, the pump won't turn back on until the pressure drops below 40 PSI. And, if you have a large tank, that means that you will have to deal with low pressure for a long time before the pump kicks in to bring the pressure back up. And, if you have a small tank, the pump is going to be cycling more frequently.
To address the problem of inconsistent pressure, you can add what is called a. "cycle stop valve." A CSV will sense the amount of water being used and restrict flow from the pump to match the usage. In other words, the CSV would make the 3 gallon per minute pump produce only the needed 1 gallon per minute, rather than cycling it on and off at the 3 gallon per minute rate. This causes the pump to draw less current, which means it is using less power, which means it is also running cooler. And, rather than rapidly cycling between full output and no output, it simply runs longer at a lower rate - something the pump can do much easier and for many more years! The CSV also regulates pressure in the system, regardless of flow, up to the pump's maximum output. So, if it is set for 50 PSI, you will always get 50 PSI while using at least one gallon per minute. A CSV will also allow you to use a smaller five gallon pressure tank, rather than a large one, and still have essentially the same benefits.
Of course, these modifications to the system add complexity and cost, but they do make for much more robust performance and longer life.
Thanks, for the video!
thanks for all of the info!
Really appreciate the knowledge 🙌
Richard Owens q
Thank you for the information, it looks like his setup is more for emergency, but I appreciate this info, because I'm looking for pressurized home water for off grid solutions
Travel trailer pressure pumps are consistently on/off without any issues
I've been doing this for about 20 years. The RV pumps work good for Battery setup, especially during rolling blackouts. Have mine setup to tandem deep cycle. Deep cycle are solar charged
Great setup, except you should put the battery on top (in case of a malfunction so your batt doesn't get wet) and put holes in the top and bottom of the tote (so your battery and pump can "breathe").
Only thing that kit needs as a small solar panel. Great job
That right there- the firefighting potential alone- makes this probably one of the most valuable videos you've ever made.
You made a very educated video keep up the good work
You can also hook up a 12V Portable Solar Panel Battery Charger to the box to keep the battery charged.
That's what I need. I have a solar panel for my well pump and I wonder if I could use it to charge a battery as well. I might as well get as much use out of my solar panel as I can.
I REALLY like your setup!!!
You could also set up a small Solar Charging station for those smaller batteries, separate from your house power. A 30 Watt Panel & 10 Amp Charge Controller would work just fine. You could have one battery in your pump box and keep TWO on the Solar on standby at any given time.
'Check your rules and regulations' LOL. Sorry, in California, where a Ruger 10-22 is now classified as an assault rifle, and virtually anything you can think of is probably illegal, that's funny.
Awesome setup David. Those are the same pumps we use on our agricultural spray rigs. They're not highly efficient but work really well. A small bit of debris in the valves of the thing will cause it to not pump, so a filter before it and something to keep algae from growing in there is a great addition. With ours, if they over winter they often need to be taken apart and cleaned out to get them running again. Simple enough, just those screws at the end. A solar panel and a charge controller on top of the tote would be double awesome.
I've been using an RV pump in my cabin for 26 years. Cheap and has plenty of psi.
Have it hooked up to deep cycle batteries, from tank through cabin.
Do you mind if I ask the specific make and model pump you use? I bought a 12v pump for our cabin and pull the water from a rain water catch tote and really dissapoint in the pressure. Pump said 5 gallons per minute and 55psi. Not even close.
@@jasoncoleman9000 I would check your height. If you need lift. I have 2 pumps 2 tanks, 1 Big tank#1 up to cabin ( lift 125' pump) to smaller tank#2. Then the smaller pump ( RV size) into cabin from #2 tank ( 300 gal) .RV Shureflo I'm thinkin'... I used a new toilet float in #2 smaller tank as automatic filler and stop overfill from #1 tank. ( I thought that was pretty genius!) Works great!! Gotta make sure no air gets in line to reduce cycling of pumps. Have them hooked to Deep cycles just with alligator clips...
when I copy your set-up, I think that I will strap it to a harbor freight hand truck, and mount a solid connection port on the outlet on the box. excellent idea!
My constant $200+ water bills on a two bath, two person household, time to set this up and start collecting rain barrels.
Love your posts. You may want to use RV hoses to reduce the possibility of bacteria in the garden hoses. Please keep up the good work sir.
Nobody does it better. You're an inspiration SP1!!
Now I'm going to have that bond song stuck in my head all evening. 'Like heaven above me...the spy who loved meeee! Ugh!
This was an excellent explanation and exactly what i was looking for for my country property! Thanks for the great video!
Great idea! We could definitely have many uses for that type of water pump on our Rocky Mountains homestead..Thank you!
Great info. Great presentation. Great job!
Thank you. Everything I needed in one video.
Great idea and execution to solve a problem. I would replace the toggle switch with a rocker type, less likely to snag or break it off.
Yes good suggestion. I actually have some when my Radio Shack closed up bought a bunch at 90% off.
+southernprepper1 I miss Radio Shack... The Source (new name) is WAY over priced!
Nifty. Thank you for sharing. That is better water pressure than I have in my house now.
great video. we miss your show!
we have a tire valve on a 55 gal barrel that we fill with air to get decent pressure . just use it on the job site . thanks for the info
+1 love the concept! no electricity needed, can charge the system with a bike cycle air pump.
I'd love to get more details about it.
An old water tight water heater works good also. A tire valve at the top, draw the water at the bottom of the tank...
Campers used to use the air pressure tanks for their water. Haven’t seen one for a. While but the one I had worked well.
Actually good idea put the pump outside. Less noisy than the pump inside which mine is at present.
Good idea and the top box can be change out for something else .
If you need to shut off the municipal water go out to the meter and open the cover. Just before the meter is a valve that you can shut off (turn until it is like ======||======= across the pipe direction). That will keep your water, and pressure, on your side of the municipal connection.
Many places are calling for the use of a back-flow preventer so whenever your inside pressure is higher than the street it will not flow back to the main. This would make it fully automatic.
Good idea, SouthernPrepper1. The big totes of water, could be handy, for people living in areas, where a source of water is needed to put out fires. Out West, homes are always being burnt down, because of out of control, grass, brush and forest fires.
if the water tote is connected to a Public Water Supply System of Piping, a backflow prevention valve might be required. It would depend on the set up. (Ask a good plumbing store.)
In most places, even a sprinkler system for the lawn, requires the backflow prevention valve, to prevent, unsafe contaminated water, from being pulled back into the drinking water supply. A public bathroom will often have an water outlet for a hose. (See a Walmart bathroom.) There will be a backflow valve on the water outlet for the hose. (If a janitor ever places-leaves the hose in a toilet), the value is suppose to prevent sewage water, from being pulled back into, the drinking water piping.
----------------------------------------
Here it is the law, for South Carolina:
South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control
``The Cross Connection Control/Backflow Prevention program is a state mandated program designed to protect the public's drinking water from contamination by identifying and eliminating cross connections.``
`No person shall install, permit to be installed or maintain any cross
connection between a public water system and any other non-public water system,
sewer or a line from any container of liquids or other substances, unless an
approved backflow prevention device or assembly is installed between the public
water system and the source of contamination.``
surflow pumps were really popularhere in the uk for canal boats. However, their reliability/lifespan is questionable. I had issues with mine and my boat engineer friend bsicly said replace it they are crap. Well not at £80! Managed to bodge it. Will run it untill it dies.
Awesome idea. We have a cabin in the middle of nowhere and this will be a great way to get a shower and wash up. Thank you.
If you're still following this, about how long will a charged battery last running one of these pumps?
I have the same kind of system feeding rain water to the garden using a solar panel. All off grid.
I like your idea a lot. Thank you for sharing this method of water with the pump. I hope you can share with me the names of those pumps again so can this down. I have huge bathtub and I can carry I out in small buckets which really hard for me to do in my delicate condition after surgery.
If you have any questions do not hesitate to send m a message to southernprepper1@yahoo.com
Add a couple solar panels to that setup and that would be perfect!
How cool is that? Great idea! Thanks!
Nice setup, You never cease to amaze, keep that brain working! Great Info., Thanks!!
Why don't you reverse them so the battery is on top and the pump on bottom in case of a leak in your pump, unless your battery will do ok under water or at the least maybe drill some holes in the bottom of that case for drainage, you definitely don't want your battery sitting in a case full of water. An ounce of prevention and all. Very nice set up and great idea! I work in the critical power industry uninterruptible power supplies .... Vrla batteries, wet cell batteries and gel cell batteries static switches etc. so I am always trying new stuff at home for off the grid living...next step buying land!
Just a pointer for those wanting to put one of these in their truck... water weighs 7 pounds per gallon so a 200 gallon tank is already too much for a half ton pick up truck. Don't forget to add the weight of the empty tank and anything else you may carry.
rupe53 .. it's more than 7 lbs. It's a little more than 8.34 lbs per gallon.
i like your idea of a fire truck setup. then i could use an ac pump and my inverter. thanks!!!!
I'm one of your Five Faithful! Do you have a video on that AC pump inverter? I didn't find it....
Good video! Maybe you should vent the battery compartment? Adding a solar trickle charger would be nice.
Thank you for your ideas!
I was enjoy your shows things like this make a difference thank you
Southernprepper1, you could use a ShellyCloud or Sonoff wifi switch powered off 12v, to make your system Smart. Allowing timer, or smart rules.
Thanks for the demo Mr. Travolta.
Great idea, we are getting ready to hook up all of our totes and had planned on something similar
Nice! Im gonna have to build one and maybe incorprate a small solar panel to keep the batt charged
great video. I have been looking for a better way fight spot fires with water from my 2800 gal tank.
Great video, the only thing that I would change is get rid of the garden hose and get RV hoses. Garden hoses are not for potable water.
Yes Have one white RV hose should get a few more.
I have the same experience as you but why gamble. Especially with modern manufactures poisoning us. I would rather have a white RV hose that is made for drinking water. I have several for potable water uses.
Have you considered mounting a hinged cheap solar panel on top of the water tank and installing an inexpensive charge controller inside the battery box. This will keep the battery topped off and ready when you need it.
I have a charging station for this that is in the chicken coup. I have a bunch of the totes spaced out around the property. So easier to just move the pump box and if a battery gets low change it out. I will do a video on the charging station.
I really like the videos. you have given me some good ideas. if you are ever in Eastern NC give us a holler.
Great video, what size pump were you using for your demo. Thanks
awesome video, I'm working on something similar now, thanks for all the videos and information!
would have liked to seen the back of the box and how it was hooked up to the tank
I love the concept and the portability. What's the run time? How many amps does it draw? Could you possibly throw in some links to your "recommended" pumps?
Thank you so very much !
Nice vid good to see you not talking about politics
Great ideal.....Apreseiate You sharing!
Excellent vid David! thank you for the idea.
I like the pump setup. I'd like to try the ones from harbor freight.
I have one of the HF 110v pumps with the pressure tank that I've used in emergencies several times to pressurize the house from our swimming pool. It's worked great.
Wvo Quailwvo Thanks for the input.
That is an awesome setup!
Thanks for your upload
Nice setup. Great advice again. Thanks.
If the water leaks it falls on the battery, I would put the battery at the top and the pump below. I know 12v wont kill an adult but its still a design floor that needs some work.
Great idea!
nice. thanks for sharing
GREAT idea thank you for the video Dave.
Now THIS is a good idea!
Do you have to open the lid on top of that holding tank to get air flow in order for the pump to work properly? Or does it work fine sealed up and doesn’t create a vacuum? Thanks
No paint on the water tanks? 2 coats of black and a coat of white will block most light from getting in and still keep the tanks cool from the sun.
Not yet.....To much to do.
Might I suggest plasti-dip if you ever get around to painting them? Easily removable if you need to remove the coating for whatever reason
Thank you
That was a great video. Thank you very much
Great idea and great video. Thank you.
For us people who have deep wells and would only need power to keep our pumps going what whould be needed as far as a generator, cause all I would need the generator to run is the fridge, well pump, and water heater? For lighting I got hurricane lanterns, and a grill to cook on.
My well is 400+ feet deep and only needs a 110-240 volt source to run it if I should lose electricity from the grid.
Hey SP1, I know you probably hear this a lot, but, is there any word on MainePrepper? Myself and others have missed his videos and his calm demeanor. I wish the man nothing but the best, and would love to know how he's getting along.
You talked about the specs of the pumps That were not hook up but what was the specs on the one that you demoed in the video? I'm looking for the best route to go for a pump To suck water out of a 55 gallon drum and to feed a small 6 gallon hot water eater and also a garden hose spicket I'm trying to figure out how many gallons per minute I need and PSII know PSI should be that much of an issue as long as it's 50 or so but I'm worried about the gallons for minute for a garden hose
Absolutely Beautiful !
Good idea containing the pump and batteries in a box but your batteries are gonna need to breathe
great idea I'm gonna use it for sure
San Diego California Freedom Rally. July. 30; 2016 at 1pm. 1600 Pacific Highway, San Diego, California
Could it be connected to an existing well tank to run only when the tank needs to be pressurized? That way it would not stay running all the time water is being used
awesome
Awesome idea!!
Could you please tell me what kind of pump that is... exactly what kind of pump and where to buy it.. please thank you
Great video!
have you ever thought about doing aquaponics it would really help with the retreat
Yes I have but at this time way to many projects started and need to finish some before I start another one.
Start a house wash service with that set up
Very cool
what set up is coming off the water tote is it a hose set up
how awesome is this...........
Great idea.
Great information.
Is it bad for the pump to not have it free flowing like that ? Isn't the pump gear always turning ? Or is that what the shit off switch is for ? I do have one too
SP1, What would you recommend for a battery? Do maintenance free batteries emit gasses like their filliable cell counterparts?
Link to the 55 gallon water drum video.. im searching for it now, wish me luck
that is a good idea man. thanks for showing
That's good information. Thanks!
Does the IBC tote need to be sealed to create pressure for the pump to work? Can it have an open top?
Great video. How long will the battery run the pump? Could you pump out the whole tote? Also thumbs up for the solar charging idea.
great video, i think im just going to elevate my tank with 4x4 posts
You'll get about 1 psi per foot so you would need to elevate it to 60 feet for 60 psi.
lol
2.3 feet height = 1 psi gain. Roughly 5 psi for each story in a house.... or 23 feet high for 10 psi gain. You can do the rest of the math if you want more.