Not too often do I see a power feeder used on a table saw. I have used one on my saw at times, but as you say, it is really only worth the time if you are making a lot of similar parts. Not only do you have to adjust, but it takes a bit of time to elevate etc. AND it is DAMN heavy! I use one on my shaper all the time. Additionally I use it on one of my jointers most of the time. I find that by putting the feeder on the out feed of a jointer, (not worth it on a small jointer but VERY worth it on anything 12" and up) you get a much nicer finish and much more planer. As to the wheels not working, yes, soak them in thinners. Softens the wheel a bit but also cleans it so it grips better. Also keep that table well waxed so that materials really slip on it. (just like your planer bed).
Ive had a Holz Herr feed on my 12" powermatic tablesaw since 1980, mostly rip cabinet face frame and door stiles .... you can lift up your blade and cut into the tire, aint gonna hurt anything and a can of turtle wax is your friend, you can rejuvenate old tires by taking them off and cutting some treads in to the rubber with your bandsaw.
I use mine every time for long boards. Repositioning your hands can make a nick on the board feeding manually, which needs to be sanded out later if making something nice. I also don't like to inhale sawdust manually ripping directly in front of the blade id I don't have to. Mines a 1/4HP held by MagSwitches so easy to move out of the way when not using.
Oh ya I agree with the board movement when shifting your hands. You really gotta be consistent. And yes, not standing right behind the board getting hit by the dust is nice too!
a former shop mate who was pretty tall put his saw up on 3-4 inch tall chunks of maple to help his back out. Also handy if you want to slip a pallet jack underneath and move it around.
What edge are you referring to? Unless you mean what keeps the fence straight with the feeder pushing against it? The fence is very strong and it would take much more pressure than what I have on it. The feeder is angled towards the fence yes but only a slight amount.
Oooohhhhh my bad! I understand what you’re saying. So the power feeder is set slightly at an angle towards the fence so it is constantly pushing the board against the fence.
Ya as stiff as that arm and support is there is still some play. I also have a little more pressure on the wood than I need since my tires need replacing and don’t have as much grip.
Hello😀. I first used it in 1984 or 85. We used it to split boards. Very effective to use that way. Sincerely, Lars from Denmark 👍.
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Not too often do I see a power feeder used on a table saw. I have used one on my saw at times, but as you say, it is really only worth the time if you are making a lot of similar parts. Not only do you have to adjust, but it takes a bit of time to elevate etc. AND it is DAMN heavy! I use one on my shaper all the time. Additionally I use it on one of my jointers most of the time. I find that by putting the feeder on the out feed of a jointer, (not worth it on a small jointer but VERY worth it on anything 12" and up) you get a much nicer finish and much more planer. As to the wheels not working, yes, soak them in thinners. Softens the wheel a bit but also cleans it so it grips better. Also keep that table well waxed so that materials really slip on it. (just like your planer bed).
Giving you your first like for using the word cantilever.
Thanks for noticing. My vocabulary is limited but I sometimes surprise myself.
Ive had a Holz Herr feed on my 12" powermatic tablesaw since 1980, mostly rip cabinet face frame and door stiles .... you can lift up your blade and cut into the tire, aint gonna hurt anything and a can of turtle wax is your friend, you can rejuvenate old tires by taking them off and cutting some treads in to the rubber with your bandsaw.
Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately I don’t use it a ton so it’s been low on my priority list.
I use mine every time for long boards. Repositioning your hands can make a nick on the board feeding manually, which needs to be sanded out later if making something nice. I also don't like to inhale sawdust manually ripping directly in front of the blade id I don't have to. Mines a 1/4HP held by MagSwitches so easy to move out of the way when not using.
Oh ya I agree with the board movement when shifting your hands. You really gotta be consistent. And yes, not standing right behind the board getting hit by the dust is nice too!
a former shop mate who was pretty tall put his saw up on 3-4 inch tall chunks of maple to help his back out. Also handy if you want to slip a pallet jack underneath and move it around.
What prevents The edge on the fence from going crooked and coming off the fence
What edge are you referring to? Unless you mean what keeps the fence straight with the feeder pushing against it? The fence is very strong and it would take much more pressure than what I have on it. The feeder is angled towards the fence yes but only a slight amount.
@@markferioli208 usually a featherboard is used to keep the wood against the fence. How does the wood stay pressed against the fence with this?
Oooohhhhh my bad! I understand what you’re saying. So the power feeder is set slightly at an angle towards the fence so it is constantly pushing the board against the fence.
Refer to 9:44 of the video and I talk about that
I see you have lowered the feeder more than the sprung wheels, hence the lift on the bar.
Ya as stiff as that arm and support is there is still some play. I also have a little more pressure on the wood than I need since my tires need replacing and don’t have as much grip.
@@markferioli208 Common with all feeders.
And I don’t use it a ton so I always forgot to order the new tires
@@markferioli208 Try soaking in thinners a while, they soften up.
@@davidbowden8362 oh I may try that! They need replacing either way at some point from all my learning mistakes haha