Jack O'Neil showed how a very small but positive force can create a very large change. Tried to surf steamers when a kid on a waterlogged long board that probably weighed as much as I did and it was cold... very cold. A wet suite back then was a luxury and just shows the emotional drive people like Jack had to get out in the cold CA water. Even in Hawaii a short John adds time in the water and you know after an hour the guys in the lineup without one are at a disadvantage... waiting always has its advantages. And Jack waited to "die" in a Universe where information made of time is never lost. If anyone can fair well in the next step we all take it will be people like Jack... thanks for all the warmth you brought to the planet.
Jack O'Neil showed how a very small but positive force can create a very large change. Tried to surf steamers when a kid on a waterlogged long board that probably weighed as much as I did and it was cold... very cold. A wet suite back then was a luxury and just shows the emotional drive people like Jack had to get out in the cold CA water. Even in Hawaii a short John adds time in the water and you know after an hour the guys in the lineup without one are at a disadvantage... waiting always has its advantages. And Jack waited to "die" in a Universe where information made of time is never lost. If anyone can fair well in the next step we all take it will be people like Jack... thanks for all the warmth you brought to the planet.
Legend. Proud, as an amateur, to have been part of one of the official peddle outs.
RIP legend
so cool
big boss
very cool!!