I have a new video that shows how I built the ebb and flow hydroponics system here: ruclips.net/video/RajIKBYYnlU/видео.html Since I published this video on rooting citrus rootstocks, I have had more experience with scions grafted to some of the rootstocks in this video. I tasted fruit from branches grafted to some of the rootstocks that I had said gave “acceptable quality fruit”. I was disappointed and the fruit was not acceptable to me. I took the word “acceptable” from a textbook, but in real life I think it depends upon the variety of fruit and the person tasting the fruit. Based on this experience, I do not recommend rooting citrus rootstocks. For grafting citrus trees, I recommend either rootstocks grown from seed or small trees from a reputable nursery.
So you think rooted rather than grown from seed has a negative effect on fruit quality? Disappointing as I have just successfully rooted some Carrizo and Flying Dragon. I want to expand my orchard with a few duplicates of my favorites (Decopon , Tango, Gold Nugget etc…) but definitely don’t want to go through a 3-4 year exercise to be disappointed. I’ve seen a video on your site ( I think) showing a commercial grower using the rooting, grafting one step technique…. Now what🤦🏻♂️Haha
@@itsasickness4939 It isn't that a rooted rootstock produces a fruit of poorer quality. The issue is that some of the rootstocks that produce the best fruit are harder to root. If one succeeds at rooting one of these more-difficult-to-root rootstocks, the fruit will be high quality. Since you have already succeeded in rooting Carrizo and Flying Dragon, you will be able to graft trees that will produce high quality fruit!
I enjoy all of your shared information. I have moved from CA to the mid-west where there is no more grafting of citrus in my life - however I now have a grow-tent in my basement. QQ: Can I root scion wood from different varieties, or only root stock?
@@craigpearman2063 Thank you! I lived in Chicago for about 8 years before I moved to California and learned so much about citrus. Now if I were to move back to someplace where I could not grow citrus outside I would just buy a seedless kishu mandarin tree and grow that in a pot. Before I moved to a house with a yard I was successfully growing seedless kishu in a condominium in San Francisco. Rooting scionwood will vary in difficulty depending upon the variety. Lemons would be easier than oranges, for example. If you are able to root them, they might be OK if you grow them in pots with a nice growing medium that avoids diseases that would otherwise harm the roots. On the other hand, if you get some citrus rootstock seeds you could grow some seedlings and graft to them in your grow tent. I've been experimenting with grafting to small citrus rootstocks and healing them indoors in a container with a heating mat underneath and have found that it works well.
Im in SE Texas and my property extends across a creek into a hardwood bottom. I have found Trifoliate growing there along the creek. My dad had been grafting Owari Satsuma for many years. Prior to me buying my property my dad had a couple locations he knew of where Trifoliate grew in cow pastures. The last couple years we have been using the Trifoliate that grows behind my house! I think I'm going to try to root some Trifoliate cuttings. If they root I will graft onto them later! As it is now I dig them up once they go dominant in mid December. Which is going to be in a week or two.
After learning from this channel that citrus could be rooted, I attempted it with Sour Orange (Seville Sour Orange?) which is an Arizona preferred rootstock. Low take rate, long project, but it did work! I trimmed some big suckers and am going for round 2.
Providing heat to the root zone, while keeping the upper parts of the cuttings cooler will help prevent expending limited reserves on shoot development prior to root initiation. Not a big deal on easy to root cuttings, but is a deal breaker on more difficult cuttings. The successful cuttings were able to push both shoots and roots simultaneously, however, the more difficult to root rootstock were unable to do so. I have been successful in pulling unrooted stock after 10-14 days and re-applying rooting hormone, then returning to the rooting media. In summation, having pre-existing foliage is beneficial, developing shoots before roots is detrimental.
I actually have 100% propagation rating with my citrus cuttings. I’m working on some nursery stock and hopefully getting registered to sell citrus trees.
During last summer I carried out air layerings on old lemon trees in our orchard. 2 feet, 3 feet, and 5 feet long branches were selected. These were removed from the mother plant in July 2020 and planted in pots of appropriate sizes. Potting soil consisted of garden soil, red wrigglers compost, wood ashes etc. These plants soon began to experience flowering and fruiting. All are successful. But I still have to experiment with lemon cutting. The field of growing plants from seeds, cuttings, air layering (through soil mixture or water), various kinds of grafting methods, is vast. Barring grafting, the other three are straight forward ways of growing plants, especially, fruit plants. Grafting, on the other hand, is different in many ways, in my personal view, as we have to cut off (or decapitate in a sense) the top of the rootstock of one and force a scion from another species, to grow on it, without roots of its own. This makes grafting an artificial method in comparison to the other methods which seem and sound natural. Thank you ! Looking forward to having your valuable comments and guidance in this regard as I am almost like a beginner in this field . You have a demonstrated so well in your current video and the information is so very well narrated. Great work indeed !!
Thank you! I did an interview last year with a scientist who explained why grafted trees are now preferred to self-rooted trees. You can see his answer here: ruclips.net/video/JAAe8TnP3fQ/видео.html In California the disease issues are so severe that air layering or growing from cuttings are not allowed unless a tree is protected from disease-spreading insects, tested, and certified free of disease. Even without the issue of disease spread due to propagation, a grafted tree will give a healthier tree tolerant of some soil problems and resistant so some citrus diseases.
I preserve my citrus varieties by grafting fruit cocktail trees. Cocktail grapefruit is very dominant even took over a Yuzu I have and had multiple fruits in 2 years. Air layering also makes ok clones. All in Canada.
Thanks for the instructions, why do commercial farmers prefer rootstock seedling over budwood ? And why did you use budwood instead of seedling ? Last question, if I use a this method or air layering is there a higher chance of failure in comparison to grafted seedling after the plant takes off and vigorously grows in the ground ?
Is the daily 14 hours of light really necessary? I always thought cuttings should stay out of direct light. Also noticed you didn't scrape the ends of the rootstock before dipping and inserting.
Greetings from Puerto Rico, great video and very interesting way of propagating citrus trees. I would like to ask you what kind of rotting hormone you use and also how or where can I find the cubes medium you use and what really is? Finally where from I can get he cuttings? Thanks
I love your videos. Thank you for sharing. Do you know where I can get Ponderosa Lemon seeds. I'd love to get some varieties from the CCPP going here and I really want to use good rootstock material
Thanks so much for this wonderful video! I had a quick question about the setup, I bought the recommended black plastic tray and ebb and flow fitting kits, but because the bottom of the tray is flat I can't get a good seal for the fittings, how did you work around this, silicone sealing? A different tray?
Thank you! I am glad that you enjoyed the video. Your question is very timely because I just published a video showing how I set it up. Silicone sealing may work better than my hack, but mine worked OK with no leaks: ruclips.net/video/RajIKBYYnlU/видео.html
Is Myers lemon a root stock folks use? I've always heard it was one of the easiest types of citrus to root, and that generally the plants root system is good enough to not need a root stock.
In general I think lemons are pretty easy to root. There are some nurseries that will root lemon cuttings and sell those trees, but I don’t expect that you would see that from a reputable nursery selling trees to be sold in a citrus state like California or Florida where the tree would typically be planted in soil outside. A rooted lemon cutting might be OK for a houseplant, but if it’s going to be planted in the soil outside it would be better to graft it to a rootstock.
Why use a rootstock? I know the benifits are for diseases but why not just take healthy and productive scion wood from your desired citrus and grow cuttings from those?
I have the same question. I usually just cut a piece from a healthy, semi new growth, cut the end, wrap the stem in a synthetic sponge and leave it in water. No fruit yet but they did flower.
i am breeding some citrus varietis here in brazil to try and develop some resistant variety of tree,i dont have acess to the polen of the australian desert lime,but i am breeding my own crosses and in some 10 years we will see if i managed to get something
Thanks for the video Dan. This makes me feel better about the fact that my success rate for Flying Dragon cuttings over the last few years has only been about 40%. I didn't see holes in that hydroponic tray for the ebb and flow system so I'm assuming a 'clip-on' plumbing system of some sort? (I'm considering setting up a similar small system.) Cheers.
Flying Dragon is hard to root. I think 40% is not a bad success rate. Seeds are much easier. I hacked those trays with ebb and flow fitting kits. I was thinking I might make a video with more details of my setup. Would you want me to make such a video?
@@Fruitmentor Thanks. I've been unable to source Flying Dragon seeds here in New Zealand, hence the cuttings. I'd very much like to see a video of your hydroponic set up. Cheers.
Thanks for the encouragement! I know that Auscitrus ships citrus seeds outside of Australia. You may be able to order rootstock seeds of Flying Dragon and many other varieties from them: www.auscitrus.com.au/docs/seed_supply.asp
@@Fruitmentor Thanks for that Dan. Last time I looked into Auscitrus the minimum order size / price made it uncompetitive with growing rootstock from cuttings - at least for a hobbyist.
I've tried to root trifoliate rootstock and have had very little luck. From your experience though it looks like success is largely determined on variety
Don't give up. I propagate all of my own rootstock by cuttings and it took me a while to get it right. Even then depending on variety and method success rate may only be 40% or so.
i watched your vidéos all this day because i wanted to find videos about citrus cuttings, and you add 1 video about it just now, fantastic..i want to grow from cuttings a microcitrus australasica, did you try with this variety ??? or maybe an air layering ,can we make an air layering on green wood...??
Air layering of citrus in any area with citrus psyllids is always a bad idea because the new tree will contain any diseases present in the mother tree. I have not tried propagating Australian finger limes by cuttings. I think that grafting would be far easier.
This is an excellent, informative video but begs the question of where to get rootstock cuttings since the CCPP apparently does not sell rootstock to the general public. How can the public get HLB-resistant rootstock? I’m particularly interested in the US-941 rootstock,
Thank you. The CCPP does sell rootstock cuttings. All of the cuttings shown in this video were ordered from the CCPP. Please check the order form. Please note that the so called HLB-resistant rootstocks may not be very useful for HLB in California. My understanding is that the farmers in Florida take extreme measures to get benefit from those rootstocks that homeowners would be unlikely to take. Also note that these rootstocks are unproven in California conditions and may not work here. Nevertheless, the CCPP is currently working to make these rootstocks available, but the process takes time -- please see my video on "Grafting Citrus Trees under a Microscope".
fruitmentor I understand what might have worked in Florida field trial might not perform well in California. I’m in Washington state, growing in a greenhouse. Here are two sections copied and pasted from the CCPP website; “The CCPP distributes citrus budwood in accordance to the California Department of Food and Agriculture regulations to anyone interested to propagate citrus trees for commercial or personal use. The CCPP does not distribute citrus seeds, rootstocks, or trees. For such items contact your local nursery or click here for more information.” And... “CCPP only distributes citrus budwood for grafting. To buy citrus rootstock seedlings or citrus trees, you may contact your local nursery, or one of the the listed vendors that have agreed to accommodate requests from CCPP budwood users. Information for purchasing budwood and/or trees of standard and uncommon citrus varieties is also available at the UC Riverside Citrus Variety Collection site (purchasing) and at the Fruitmentor.” I see that the US-941 has passed quarantine and is being produced. I do not see it ever on a list of available budwood, at least for me. Also, the bud stock I’m interested in us US-942, not US-941. Thanks in advance for you help!
I don't see either on the budwood lists. They may have to wait for the tree to grow after taking cuttings for testing. Perhaps they have the caveat because many rootstock cuttings are difficult to root. Normally seed trees are grown to produce rootstock seeds. With new releases like these cuttings are the fastest way to get rootstocks. If a rootstock that is a true solution to HLB is discovered it will not matter if the seeds are nucellar or not. If they are not nucellar the new norm would be propagating by cuttings.
Thank you. In this list, I cannot find references to Citrus Maxima (Pomelo) and Citrus Medica (Cedro). Do you have some informations about it? I am interested to Maxima and Medica on Volkameriana, Carizzo, Citrumelo and Orange Sour. Thank you again
I have an article with a graphic that shows how to tell here: fruitmentor.com/grafting-lemon-trees Look for the section titled “Orientation of the Bud”
if I have an orange tree that I love in my back yard and want to take a cutting and grow a second tree in my front yard, does that present a risk in terms of spreading diseases or violate any California regulations? Thanks
I took 10 lemon cutting . Made 45 degree cut ,, applied aleo vera in bottom then put it in soil + cow manure in plastic glass then packed it air tight in polythene bag .. kept it in shadow ... after 10 day when I open it I found all fungus and no new baby leaf in it.. so what to do no should I throw it ???. Kindly suggest..🙏
Yes. I would suggest throwing it away. That really is not a good way to make a lemon tree and I would not expect it to work. I prefer grafting: ruclips.net/video/6WUameIQS6I/видео.html
It depends upon where you live. It would not be legal in California or Florida. Trees of Meyer lemon are so readily available that I would never graft such a tree myself. I’d rather avoid wasting my time on it and just buy a tree from a reputable nursery.
I'm not in California. Is this info relevant to Texas? I have several citrus trees purchased locally and they had certified citrus tags for Texas producers... is it unethical for me to root cuttings of the rootstock the orange tree is on, and then graft that same orang onto that rooted rootstock cutting? The 2 plants were already together from the store I got them from.. they already share any disease or not, right? So, if the rootstocks are growing suckers off them (which is happening) and you graft right back to it the same thing you got originally... is this an issue? Not ordering other rootstock and other scion wood.. taking a pre bought setup and rooting and grating THEM?
It is unfortunate but this is also very relevant in Texas. I had not checked in quite a while, but I now see that the disease has spread to a number of new parts of Texas: www.citrusalert.com/south-texas-quarantine-map/ The whole state of Texas is an Asian Citrus Psyllid quarantined area, so the whole state is at high risk for HLB. The disease could be around and you would not know because citrus trees take a long time to show symptoms. Several years ago I understand that the laws in Texas were a bit lax and that some of the laws only applied in the citrus growing areas near the Mexican border. I don't know what the laws are now, but my understanding was that they were going to make them more like California. You could probably get a very good picture by talking to someone at the Texas A&M citrus center: www.tamuk.edu/agriculture/institutes-and-other-units/citr/index.html Regarding citrus bought at a nursery, they could be infested with psyllids and/or infected with HLB as soon as the pesticide applied at the production nursery washes away. In California trees in an open environment nursery should in theory be destroyed after 90 days because this pesticide is no longer protecting the trees. If trees are left sitting around longer than this they could pick up psyllids and HLB. I would not be surprised if the laws regarding citrus nurseries in Texas were different. Regarding the risk of what you are proposing, it depends upon what you plan to do with the new tree. If you plan to move it off of your property, that is probably not a good idea. If you plan to keep the tree on your property then there would be less risk. To be honest I would not bother with something like that when I could just buy another tree from the same nursery. I made a really nice video discussing some of these issues and questions with Georgios Vidalakis of the CCPP that you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/JAAe8TnP3fQ/видео.html
I have a few questions. Should I just grow my own rootstock from seed or try to get a cutting rootstock from Cccp. Given that, which is the best rootstock if I plan to make Kumquat trees. Thank you sir.
I think growing from seed is the easiest. Carrizo should make a good rootstock for kumquats, but is more difficult to root as I show in this video: ruclips.net/video/bjtr44QCi78/видео.html
You might want to try Lyn citrus seeds. The cuttings are not that easy to root. If you do try rooting them, give them more time than I did in this video. They are slow to root.
@@Fruitmentor If I try to root them should I graft and root them at the same time or should I wait after the cutting gets rooted and then graft? I'm just looking for the one that'll have the highest success rate.
My success rate with the grafting part was close to 100%. I found the rooting part more challenging. When the rooting fails the scion dies, so there is more waste. The rootstocks that give the best quality fruit tend to be harder to root. I prefer to graft to a seedling rather than root the rootstock.
Thanks your your videos. Like you, I love citrus and I'm also very concerned about spreading plant disease. I would love to grow my own cold-hardy rootstock but I always fail rooting cuttings. If I buy some citrange fruits from a hobbyist and germinate the seeds, will there be a danger of spreading citrus disease? I have grown kumquats from seeds.
There are some citrus diseases that are spread by citrus seeds and some that are not. It would be better to buy from a company that harvests the seed fruit from tested disease-free trees and properly treats the seeds. Here are a couple: lyncitrusseed.com/ www.auscitrus.com.au/docs/seed_supply.asp For the sake of hobbyists it would be nice if they had smaller minimum orders, but based on my experience growing rootstocks from cuttings I think it would be more economical anyway. It also eliminates the problem of cuttings that fail to root and the rootstock plants will likely be healthier and more vigorous.
Rooting citrus isn't so easy. How well it works depends upon the variety. I would recommend grafting to an appropriate rootstock. I prefer to graft to a a rootstock seedling rather than a rooted cutting.
@@Fruitmentor agree, i think grafting onto the rooted cutting defeats the purpose as i understand the root ball will never be as strong as one grown the seed. would it be another consideration to graft to a rootstock seedling (grown from a seed)?
Thanks for the information video. I had 7 citrus trees die back last winter to the root stock due to two snow & ice storms that are rare in my area. All 7 trees have recovered and are about 36" tall. What is the best time to graft new scions onto these root stocks?
I know about BARI. But they have no high quality malta, orange,pomelo,grapes fruits verity.satsuma,neval,blood orange,high quality lemon is not available here.Can you help me to collect it.I shall pay for this.
I don't work for the CCPP but you can send them an email at ccpp@ucr.edu and ask them if they can help you. They are happy to ship budwood anywhere, but sometimes there are restrictions from the local government. I don't know about Bangladesh.
It might be possible, but after my two videos on the subject I would be more inclined to grow citrus rootstocks from seeds because it is much easier and gives a very vigorous rootstock. If I were to root citrus rootstock cuttings again I would stick to either coconut coir or stonewool because I know that they work. Vermiculite might work as well.
If I had given some of those cuttings more time, there is a chance that roots would have eventually developed but there is no guarantee. Honestly I much prefer planting citrus rootstock seeds to rooting rootstock cuttings.
I have two suckers that popped up below the graftline of one of my kumquat trees. I was thinking of trying to root them in rockwool as well. I wanted to continue to grow them hydroponically in rockwool. Do you have any tips to avoid failure to root? If they do not produce roots within eight weeks, can I assume it never will and give up at that point? I am not sure what the rootstock is. Are there any resources you have that can help me identify the rootstock based on physical characteristics such as the leaves or their spacing? Thank you for posting this video.
This website has many good photos that are helpful for identification: citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/index.html Please be aware that in areas with citrus psyllids any tree outside of a protective structure could be infected with huanglongbing. If you live in such an area I would discourage such an experiment. Cuttings from a program such as CCPP will be free of disease. If you can acquire rootstock seeds that is a far easier way to grow rootstock seedlings.
The seeds of a normal orange would not typically be used as a roostock. Rootstocks are typically bred for special characteristics like disease resistance and normally the fruit of the rootstock fruit tastes bad.
@Fruit Mentor do you know why citrus grown from seed have incomplete flowers? I have a citron (I believe etrog) and it keeps having incomplete flowers that don't turn into fruits. I know the tree does have the ability to flower the fully formed ones, it has done that once before. I have pictures of this tree in my flickr.com/aktie9 account if you want pictures or message me for them. Also my friend's tree is having this issue too. I don't think she has the entire tree covered in incomplete, just a few. My ponderosa also had one! But just the one seems more normal? TY!
You have so many nice photos, but I'm not sure that I saw the one with incomplete flowers. Citrus grown from seed goes through a long juvenile stage where it does not flower. One common problem that people seem to have with citrus is fertilization. Even a grafted tree may not flower if it does not receive adequate fertilization.
Oranges seem to be more difficult and the benefit of a rootstock would be lost. It would be much better to order blood orange scions from the CCPP and graft them.
I have a new video that shows how I built the ebb and flow hydroponics system here:
ruclips.net/video/RajIKBYYnlU/видео.html
Since I published this video on rooting citrus rootstocks, I have had more experience with scions grafted to some of the rootstocks in this video. I tasted fruit from branches grafted to some of the rootstocks that I had said gave “acceptable quality fruit”. I was disappointed and the fruit was not acceptable to me. I took the word “acceptable” from a textbook, but in real life I think it depends upon the variety of fruit and the person tasting the fruit. Based on this experience, I do not recommend rooting citrus rootstocks. For grafting citrus trees, I recommend either rootstocks grown from seed or small trees from a reputable nursery.
So you think rooted rather than grown from seed has a negative effect on fruit quality? Disappointing as I have just successfully rooted some Carrizo and Flying Dragon. I want to expand my orchard with a few duplicates of my favorites (Decopon , Tango, Gold Nugget etc…) but definitely don’t want to go through a 3-4 year exercise to be disappointed. I’ve seen a video on your site ( I think) showing a commercial grower using the rooting, grafting one step technique…. Now what🤦🏻♂️Haha
@@itsasickness4939 It isn't that a rooted rootstock produces a fruit of poorer quality. The issue is that some of the rootstocks that produce the best fruit are harder to root. If one succeeds at rooting one of these more-difficult-to-root rootstocks, the fruit will be high quality. Since you have already succeeded in rooting Carrizo and Flying Dragon, you will be able to graft trees that will produce high quality fruit!
@@Fruitmentor advice needed, my Father moved to Frost Proof, FL. There's citrus everywhere, is it possible to root and graft outdoors there?
I enjoy all of your shared information. I have moved from CA to the mid-west where there is no more grafting of citrus in my life - however I now have a grow-tent in my basement.
QQ: Can I root scion wood from different varieties, or only root stock?
@@craigpearman2063 Thank you! I lived in Chicago for about 8 years before I moved to California and learned so much about citrus. Now if I were to move back to someplace where I could not grow citrus outside I would just buy a seedless kishu mandarin tree and grow that in a pot. Before I moved to a house with a yard I was successfully growing seedless kishu in a condominium in San Francisco. Rooting scionwood will vary in difficulty depending upon the variety. Lemons would be easier than oranges, for example. If you are able to root them, they might be OK if you grow them in pots with a nice growing medium that avoids diseases that would otherwise harm the roots. On the other hand, if you get some citrus rootstock seeds you could grow some seedlings and graft to them in your grow tent. I've been experimenting with grafting to small citrus rootstocks and healing them indoors in a container with a heating mat underneath and have found that it works well.
Im in SE Texas and my property extends across a creek into a hardwood bottom. I have found Trifoliate growing there along the creek.
My dad had been grafting Owari Satsuma for many years. Prior to me buying my property my dad had a couple locations he knew of where Trifoliate grew in cow pastures.
The last couple years we have been using the Trifoliate that grows behind my house!
I think I'm going to try to root some Trifoliate cuttings. If they root I will graft onto them later!
As it is now I dig them up once they go dominant in mid December. Which is going to be in a week or two.
I have to try this method. Thank you for sharing, my channel was truly inspired by your channel.
After learning from this channel that citrus could be rooted, I attempted it with Sour Orange (Seville Sour Orange?) which is an Arizona preferred rootstock.
Low take rate, long project, but it did work! I trimmed some big suckers and am going for round 2.
Great go for it, best of luck
How long did it take the cuttings to root? I'm trying to root the same type.
@@kellykittinger5969 I put pencil sized cuttings in a bag of perlite, dipped in powdered hormone, and it took about 4-6 weeks.
Wow that's exciting and gives me some hope. Did you keep them in full sunlight, under a grow light or did you keep them in a more shady area?
@@kellykittinger5969 Just indoors on the kitchen counter in a zippy. No direct sunlight.
Providing heat to the root zone, while keeping the upper parts of the cuttings cooler will help prevent expending limited reserves on shoot development prior to root initiation. Not a big deal on easy to root cuttings, but is a deal breaker on more difficult cuttings. The successful cuttings were able to push both shoots and roots simultaneously, however, the more difficult to root rootstock were unable to do so. I have been successful in pulling unrooted stock after 10-14 days and re-applying rooting hormone, then returning to the rooting media. In summation, having pre-existing foliage is beneficial, developing shoots before roots is detrimental.
I actually have 100% propagation rating with my citrus cuttings. I’m working on some nursery stock and hopefully getting registered to sell citrus trees.
Congratulations on your success!
During last summer I carried out air layerings on old lemon trees in our orchard. 2 feet, 3 feet, and 5 feet long branches were selected. These were removed from the mother plant in July 2020 and planted in pots of appropriate sizes. Potting soil consisted of garden soil, red wrigglers compost, wood ashes etc. These plants soon began to experience flowering and fruiting. All are successful.
But I still have to experiment with lemon cutting. The field of growing plants from seeds, cuttings, air layering (through soil mixture or water), various kinds of grafting methods, is vast. Barring grafting, the other three are straight forward ways of growing plants, especially, fruit plants. Grafting, on the other hand, is different in many ways, in my personal view, as we have to cut off (or decapitate in a sense) the top of the rootstock of one and force a scion from another species, to grow on it, without roots of its own. This makes grafting an artificial method in comparison to the other methods which seem and sound natural.
Thank you !
Looking forward to having your valuable comments and guidance in this regard as I am almost like a beginner in this field .
You have a demonstrated so well in your current video and the information is so very well narrated. Great work indeed !!
Thank you!
I did an interview last year with a scientist who explained why grafted trees are now preferred to self-rooted trees. You can see his answer here:
ruclips.net/video/JAAe8TnP3fQ/видео.html
In California the disease issues are so severe that air layering or growing from cuttings are not allowed unless a tree is protected from disease-spreading insects, tested, and certified free of disease. Even without the issue of disease spread due to propagation, a grafted tree will give a healthier tree tolerant of some soil problems and resistant so some citrus diseases.
Gray video, you're the best at this. Thank you for always teaching us by sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
@@Fruitmentor root and growth stimulant drugs
@@yinyoeung8487 The materials that I used can be found here:
www.fruitmentor.com/materials-for-growing-fruit-trees-from-cuttings-hydroponically
I preserve my citrus varieties by grafting fruit cocktail trees. Cocktail grapefruit is very dominant even took over a Yuzu I have and had multiple fruits in 2 years. Air layering also makes ok clones. All in Canada.
Most kickass video on the subject. Thanks for this work.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the instructions, why do commercial farmers prefer rootstock seedling over budwood ? And why did you use budwood instead of seedling ?
Last question, if I use a this method or air layering is there a higher chance of failure in comparison to grafted seedling after the plant takes off and vigorously grows in the ground ?
Bruh! Very professional
Thank you!
Is the daily 14 hours of light really necessary? I always thought cuttings should stay out of direct light. Also noticed you didn't scrape the ends of the rootstock before dipping and inserting.
Greetings from Puerto Rico, great video and very interesting way of propagating citrus trees. I would like to ask you what kind of rotting hormone you use and also how or where can I find the cubes medium you use and what really is?
Finally where from I can get he cuttings?
Thanks
I love your videos. Thank you for sharing. Do you know where I can get Ponderosa Lemon seeds. I'd love to get some varieties from the CCPP going here and I really want to use good rootstock material
I loved this video as agricultural student
Thank you!
What chemical was it that you used as a rooting hormone ?
Here is the web page where I list the materials:
www.fruitmentor.com/materials-for-growing-fruit-trees-from-cuttings-hydroponically
O trabalho e muito bom Parabéns,um abraço do Brasil.
Obrigado!
Magari fosse così facile e veloce a fare attecchire le talee
👋👋👋👋👋
Thanks so much for this wonderful video! I had a quick question about the setup, I bought the recommended black plastic tray and ebb and flow fitting kits, but because the bottom of the tray is flat I can't get a good seal for the fittings, how did you work around this, silicone sealing? A different tray?
Thank you! I am glad that you enjoyed the video. Your question is very timely because I just published a video showing how I set it up. Silicone sealing may work better than my hack, but mine worked OK with no leaks:
ruclips.net/video/RajIKBYYnlU/видео.html
Is Myers lemon a root stock folks use?
I've always heard it was one of the easiest types of citrus to root, and that generally the plants root system is good enough to not need a root stock.
In general I think lemons are pretty easy to root. There are some nurseries that will root lemon cuttings and sell those trees, but I don’t expect that you would see that from a reputable nursery selling trees to be sold in a citrus state like California or Florida where the tree would typically be planted in soil outside. A rooted lemon cutting might be OK for a houseplant, but if it’s going to be planted in the soil outside it would be better to graft it to a rootstock.
@@Fruitmentor Thank you, I greatly appreciate the your time!
Best videos. But, what kind nutrition should be applied?
How long does a freshly grafted tree take to flower? Is there a difference to trees propagated by cuttings?
Fruit much faster non grafted will die before you see fruit. Cuttings clone the mother tree
Why use a rootstock? I know the benifits are for diseases but why not just take healthy and productive scion wood from your desired citrus and grow cuttings from those?
I have the same question. I usually just cut a piece from a healthy, semi new growth, cut the end, wrap the stem in a synthetic sponge and leave it in water. No fruit yet but they did flower.
Where would one find C-35 or Flying dragon seeds to plant?
i am breeding some citrus varietis here in brazil to try and develop some resistant variety of tree,i dont have acess to the polen of the australian desert lime,but i am breeding my own crosses and in some 10 years we will see if i managed to get something
Good luck with your breeding project! I wish you success!
Thanks for the video Dan. This makes me feel better about the fact that my success rate for Flying Dragon cuttings over the last few years has only been about 40%.
I didn't see holes in that hydroponic tray for the ebb and flow system so I'm assuming a 'clip-on' plumbing system of some sort? (I'm considering setting up a similar small system.)
Cheers.
Flying Dragon is hard to root. I think 40% is not a bad success rate. Seeds are much easier. I hacked those trays with ebb and flow fitting kits. I was thinking I might make a video with more details of my setup. Would you want me to make such a video?
@@Fruitmentor Thanks. I've been unable to source Flying Dragon seeds here in New Zealand, hence the cuttings. I'd very much like to see a video of your hydroponic set up. Cheers.
Thanks for the encouragement! I know that Auscitrus ships citrus seeds outside of Australia. You may be able to order rootstock seeds of Flying Dragon and many other varieties from them:
www.auscitrus.com.au/docs/seed_supply.asp
@@Fruitmentor Thanks for that Dan. Last time I looked into Auscitrus the minimum order size / price made it uncompetitive with growing rootstock from cuttings - at least for a hobbyist.
Does the citrus grown by cutting would fruit with out grafting? If yes how much time it would take?
I've tried to root trifoliate rootstock and have had very little luck. From your experience though it looks like success is largely determined on variety
Yes. And also time of year and the quality of the cuttings.
I have found the time of year makes a large difference.
Lower nighttime temps might help.
Don't give up. I propagate all of my own rootstock by cuttings and it took me a while to get it right. Even then depending on variety and method success rate may only be 40% or so.
i watched your vidéos all this day because i wanted to find videos about citrus cuttings, and you add 1 video about it just now, fantastic..i want to grow from cuttings a microcitrus australasica, did you try with this variety ??? or maybe an air layering ,can we make an air layering on green wood...??
Air layering of citrus in any area with citrus psyllids is always a bad idea because the new tree will contain any diseases present in the mother tree. I have not tried propagating Australian finger limes by cuttings. I think that grafting would be far easier.
Just a question. The rooting hormon is home made ? Or did you buy It at the market ? Thanks.
I ordered some seville budwood and I'm hoping to root them the way you did. Do you know if they'll root easily? Great video thank you
I suspect that they may be difficult to root. I would be interested to hear how it goes.
This is an excellent, informative video but begs the question of where to get rootstock cuttings since the CCPP apparently does not sell rootstock to the general public. How can the public get HLB-resistant rootstock? I’m particularly interested in the US-941 rootstock,
Thank you. The CCPP does sell rootstock cuttings. All of the cuttings shown in this video were ordered from the CCPP. Please check the order form. Please note that the so called HLB-resistant rootstocks may not be very useful for HLB in California. My understanding is that the farmers in Florida take extreme measures to get benefit from those rootstocks that homeowners would be unlikely to take. Also note that these rootstocks are unproven in California conditions and may not work here. Nevertheless, the CCPP is currently working to make these rootstocks available, but the process takes time -- please see my video on "Grafting Citrus Trees under a Microscope".
fruitmentor I understand what might have worked in Florida field trial might not perform well in California. I’m in Washington state, growing in a greenhouse.
Here are two sections copied and pasted from the CCPP website;
“The CCPP distributes citrus budwood in accordance to the California Department of Food and Agriculture regulations to anyone interested to propagate citrus trees for commercial or personal use. The CCPP does not distribute citrus seeds, rootstocks, or trees. For such items contact your local nursery or click here for more information.”
And...
“CCPP only distributes citrus budwood for grafting.
To buy citrus rootstock seedlings or citrus trees, you may contact your local nursery, or one of the the listed vendors that have agreed to accommodate requests from CCPP budwood users. Information for purchasing budwood and/or trees of standard and uncommon citrus varieties is also available at the UC Riverside Citrus Variety Collection site (purchasing) and at the Fruitmentor.”
I see that the US-941 has passed quarantine and is being produced. I do not see it ever on a list of available budwood, at least for me. Also, the bud stock I’m interested in us US-942, not US-941.
Thanks in advance for you help!
I don't see either on the budwood lists. They may have to wait for the tree to grow after taking cuttings for testing. Perhaps they have the caveat because many rootstock cuttings are difficult to root. Normally seed trees are grown to produce rootstock seeds. With new releases like these cuttings are the fastest way to get rootstocks. If a rootstock that is a true solution to HLB is discovered it will not matter if the seeds are nucellar or not. If they are not nucellar the new norm would be propagating by cuttings.
Excellent video explanation
Thank you!
Was that just water, or a nutrient solution in the ebb flow setup?
I just used water. I understand that starting the rooting with a nutrient solution would lead to an algae problem.
What rooting hormone you are using? Indole-3-acetic acid?
Does CCPP only take MasterCard to pay for the cuttings, or can they accept other forms of payment?
When is the best time of the season to take the cuttings ???
April-June
Do you have compatibility list of roostocks on citrus variety? for example Pomelo on Volkameriana? thank you
ucanr.edu/sites/ucceventura/files/57694.pdf
Thank you. In this list, I cannot find references to Citrus Maxima (Pomelo) and Citrus Medica (Cedro). Do you have some informations about it? I am interested to Maxima and Medica on Volkameriana, Carizzo, Citrumelo and Orange Sour. Thank you again
How can you tell which is up / down on these cuttings?
I have an article with a graphic that shows how to tell here:
fruitmentor.com/grafting-lemon-trees
Look for the section titled “Orientation of the Bud”
if I have an orange tree that I love in my back yard and want to take a cutting and grow a second tree in my front yard, does that present a risk in terms of spreading diseases or violate any California regulations? Thanks
Just be sure you are wearing double masks when you do it, and put one on your orange tree for good measure.
I took 10 lemon cutting . Made 45 degree cut ,, applied aleo vera in bottom then put it in soil + cow manure in plastic glass then packed it air tight in polythene bag ..
kept it in shadow ...
after 10 day when I open it I found all fungus and no new baby leaf in it..
so what to do no should I throw it ???. Kindly suggest..🙏
Yes. I would suggest throwing it away. That really is not a good way to make a lemon tree and I would not expect it to work. I prefer grafting:
ruclips.net/video/6WUameIQS6I/видео.html
Is legal to take cuttings from my own Meyer lemon tree and graft onto my own seedling?
It depends upon where you live. It would not be legal in California or Florida. Trees of Meyer lemon are so readily available that I would never graft such a tree myself. I’d rather avoid wasting my time on it and just buy a tree from a reputable nursery.
@@Fruitmentor I like to grow them and graft them myself for my own enjoyment.
Thank you for sharing i will use the method
You’re welcome 😊
I'm not in California. Is this info relevant to Texas? I have several citrus trees purchased locally and they had certified citrus tags for Texas producers... is it unethical for me to root cuttings of the rootstock the orange tree is on, and then graft that same orang onto that rooted rootstock cutting? The 2 plants were already together from the store I got them from.. they already share any disease or not, right? So, if the rootstocks are growing suckers off them (which is happening) and you graft right back to it the same thing you got originally... is this an issue? Not ordering other rootstock and other scion wood.. taking a pre bought setup and rooting and grating THEM?
It is unfortunate but this is also very relevant in Texas. I had not checked in quite a while, but I now see that the disease has spread to a number of new parts of Texas:
www.citrusalert.com/south-texas-quarantine-map/
The whole state of Texas is an Asian Citrus Psyllid quarantined area, so the whole state is at high risk for HLB. The disease could be around and you would not know because citrus trees take a long time to show symptoms.
Several years ago I understand that the laws in Texas were a bit lax and that some of the laws only applied in the citrus growing areas near the Mexican border. I don't know what the laws are now, but my understanding was that they were going to make them more like California. You could probably get a very good picture by talking to someone at the Texas A&M citrus center:
www.tamuk.edu/agriculture/institutes-and-other-units/citr/index.html
Regarding citrus bought at a nursery, they could be infested with psyllids and/or infected with HLB as soon as the pesticide applied at the production nursery washes away. In California trees in an open environment nursery should in theory be destroyed after 90 days because this pesticide is no longer protecting the trees. If trees are left sitting around longer than this they could pick up psyllids and HLB. I would not be surprised if the laws regarding citrus nurseries in Texas were different.
Regarding the risk of what you are proposing, it depends upon what you plan to do with the new tree. If you plan to move it off of your property, that is probably not a good idea. If you plan to keep the tree on your property then there would be less risk. To be honest I would not bother with something like that when I could just buy another tree from the same nursery.
I made a really nice video discussing some of these issues and questions with Georgios Vidalakis of the CCPP that you can watch here:
ruclips.net/video/JAAe8TnP3fQ/видео.html
I have a few questions. Should I just grow my own rootstock from seed or try to get a cutting rootstock from Cccp. Given that, which is the best rootstock if I plan to make Kumquat trees. Thank you sir.
I think growing from seed is the easiest. Carrizo should make a good rootstock for kumquats, but is more difficult to root as I show in this video:
ruclips.net/video/bjtr44QCi78/видео.html
*CCPP.
The CCCP is the former USSR, which I don't think sells plants online.
4:55 that's a mouthful lol
I would like to use c35 as a rootstock, is there anywhere that sells the seeds? I can't find any, and if there aren't is it easy to root the cuttings?
You might want to try Lyn citrus seeds. The cuttings are not that easy to root. If you do try rooting them, give them more time than I did in this video. They are slow to root.
@@Fruitmentor If I try to root them should I graft and root them at the same time or should I wait after the cutting gets rooted and then graft? I'm just looking for the one that'll have the highest success rate.
My success rate with the grafting part was close to 100%. I found the rooting part more challenging. When the rooting fails the scion dies, so there is more waste. The rootstocks that give the best quality fruit tend to be harder to root. I prefer to graft to a seedling rather than root the rootstock.
Thanks your your videos. Like you, I love citrus and I'm also very concerned about spreading plant disease. I would love to grow my own cold-hardy rootstock but I always fail rooting cuttings. If I buy some citrange fruits from a hobbyist and germinate the seeds, will there be a danger of spreading citrus disease? I have grown kumquats from seeds.
There are some citrus diseases that are spread by citrus seeds and some that are not. It would be better to buy from a company that harvests the seed fruit from tested disease-free trees and properly treats the seeds. Here are a couple:
lyncitrusseed.com/
www.auscitrus.com.au/docs/seed_supply.asp
For the sake of hobbyists it would be nice if they had smaller minimum orders, but based on my experience growing rootstocks from cuttings I think it would be more economical anyway. It also eliminates the problem of cuttings that fail to root and the rootstock plants will likely be healthier and more vigorous.
Can we propagate rough lemon through this method??? If possible then guide me about propagation of rough lemon..
I did not try rough lemon, but I would expect similar results as the video shows for the three roostocks that rooted successfully.
hi, can i just root my desired cutting without grafting onto a rootstock? seems to be much easier. thanks
They can grow, but they're much less hardy and are more likely to get disease.
Rooting citrus isn't so easy. How well it works depends upon the variety. I would recommend grafting to an appropriate rootstock. I prefer to graft to a a rootstock seedling rather than a rooted cutting.
@@Fruitmentor agree, i think grafting onto the rooted cutting defeats the purpose as i understand the root ball will never be as strong as one grown the seed. would it be another consideration to graft to a rootstock seedling (grown from a seed)?
From where did you getthe Cutting please?
I got them from the CCPP:
ccpp.ucr.edu/onlineOrdersV2/
I got them from the CCPP:
ccpp.ucr.edu/onlineOrdersV2/
Thanks for the information video. I had 7 citrus trees die back last winter to the root stock due to two snow & ice storms that are rare in my area. All 7 trees have recovered and are about 36" tall. What is the best time to graft new scions onto these root stocks?
Good luck! I wrote an article that should help with your timing:
www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time
how many roots can a rootstock root if rootstock roots only rooty roots
is just growing rootstock from seed an option? And if so is there a reputable place to order rootstock seed?
I think growing from seed is a much better option. You can buy seeds from disease free source trees here:
lyncitrusseed.com/
I know about BARI. But they have no high quality malta, orange,pomelo,grapes fruits verity.satsuma,neval,blood orange,high quality lemon is not available here.Can you help me to collect it.I shall pay for this.
I don't work for the CCPP but you can send them an email at ccpp@ucr.edu and ask them if they can help you. They are happy to ship budwood anywhere, but sometimes there are restrictions from the local government. I don't know about Bangladesh.
How to prevent root rotting in lime cutting.please advice
I would recommend buying a grafted lime tree rather than attempting to root lime cuttings.
@@Fruitmentor thanks
Do you think you can root citrus cuttings with vermiculite as a rooting medium?
It might be possible, but after my two videos on the subject I would be more inclined to grow citrus rootstocks from seeds because it is much easier and gives a very vigorous rootstock. If I were to root citrus rootstock cuttings again I would stick to either coconut coir or stonewool because I know that they work. Vermiculite might work as well.
@@Fruitmentor thanks :)
IF IT STARTS TO HAVE LEAVES BUT NO ROOTS...DOESNT THAT MEAN YOU JUST HAVE TO WAIT LONGER FOR THE ROOTS TO DEVELOPE ?
If I had given some of those cuttings more time, there is a chance that roots would have eventually developed but there is no guarantee. Honestly I much prefer planting citrus rootstock seeds to rooting rootstock cuttings.
Dan , Thanks very much .
You're welcome!
Which month is best for grafting
Here is an article that I wrote on timing:
www.fruitmentor.com/grafting-citrus-trees-best-time
Which chemical used for tool wash
Here is my article on disinfecting tools:
www.fruitmentor.com/sterilizing-grafting-tools
For how long the Woodstock stay in good cobdition in the plastic sealed bag.
I have two suckers that popped up below the graftline of one of my kumquat trees. I was thinking of trying to root them in rockwool as well. I wanted to continue to grow them hydroponically in rockwool.
Do you have any tips to avoid failure to root? If they do not produce roots within eight weeks, can I assume it never will and give up at that point? I am not sure what the rootstock is. Are there any resources you have that can help me identify the rootstock based on physical characteristics such as the leaves or their spacing?
Thank you for posting this video.
This website has many good photos that are helpful for identification:
citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/index.html
Please be aware that in areas with citrus psyllids any tree outside of a protective structure could be infected with huanglongbing. If you live in such an area I would discourage such an experiment. Cuttings from a program such as CCPP will be free of disease. If you can acquire rootstock seeds that is a far easier way to grow rootstock seedlings.
Thanks getting lesson ...
Sir I have tried to download your book and I have putted my email but it is not downloading
Sorry for the trouble. Please try again and let me know if you still have a problem.
That was my problem no heat.
so the seeds from my orange tree is actually the root stock?
The seeds of a normal orange would not typically be used as a roostock. Rootstocks are typically bred for special characteristics like disease resistance and normally the fruit of the rootstock fruit tastes bad.
why do we need to graft another variety to the growing stock? why not just grow the rootstock into a full sized tree?
i was thinkin the same thing
You could do that, but the rootstock fruit tastes bad.
Grazie
Что это за кубики ?
Stone wool cubes:
www.fruitmentor.com/materials-for-growing-fruit-trees-from-cuttings-hydroponically
The liquid is what sir
I think you are referring to the liquid rooting hormone. See here:
fruitmentor.com/materials-for-growing-fruit-trees-from-cuttings-hydroponically
Very interesting fruitmentor; thanks for the video.
You're welcome!
How bout Japanese citrus???
God job...
Thanks 👏👍🇺🇸
You're welcome! I am glad that you enjoyed it!
❤❤❤
Metti i sottotitoli in italiano
Citrus tree grow from cuting excellent. Try me.
nice .
Thank you!
Жаль что не могу перевести на русский но смотреть приятно!
@Fruit Mentor do you know why citrus grown from seed have incomplete flowers? I have a citron (I believe etrog) and it keeps having incomplete flowers that don't turn into fruits. I know the tree does have the ability to flower the fully formed ones, it has done that once before. I have pictures of this tree in my flickr.com/aktie9 account if you want pictures or message me for them. Also my friend's tree is having this issue too. I don't think she has the entire tree covered in incomplete, just a few. My ponderosa also had one! But just the one seems more normal? TY!
You have so many nice photos, but I'm not sure that I saw the one with incomplete flowers. Citrus grown from seed goes through a long juvenile stage where it does not flower. One common problem that people seem to have with citrus is fertilization. Even a grafted tree may not flower if it does not receive adequate fertilization.
Namasthe.Well told.I will try.Blessings.
Thank you!
Do you think blood oranges will root with this method?
Oranges seem to be more difficult and the benefit of a rootstock would be lost. It would be much better to order blood orange scions from the CCPP and graft them.