I would take the crank and pistons out and find someplace with a dip tank to ensure all the oil passages and water jackets are clear. You also may have some stuck piston rings. I'd replace all of them and check the wrist pins. You'd kick yourself if you reassemble it as it sits, and then it runs like crap.
Couldn’t agree more. Beware of false economies, a little bit more spent now will save 000s later and will give you a better experience when you come to drive it and/or sell it.
"Whatever it is that's disgusting"... that's the cold start mechanism for the Spica. Actually it's a thermo actuator. The probe at the end goes in and out according to the ambient temperature and leans or enriches the fuel. Hang on to it as they are expensive to replace.
Very good, really enjoyed. I know trying to stay within a budget can really be hard sometimes! Anyway I really hope you can get all these oil leaks fixed for good. The bearing surfaces don't look like they need any work. What I would do is put new rings, give the cylinders a quick hone to restore the oil film and get the combustion chamber clean. Only thing I'd give more attention is the valve and their seats. PS: try not to dump oil and grease onto your yard, that stuff is really bad for the environment. Try getting off most of it with some brake cleaner to soften it up and then scoop with paper towels. Waiting for the next episode!
Really amazing how easily the cylinder head came off.These used to be a pain in the neck to do.Some even tried to suspended the cylinder on chain blocks to do it.This engine sounds and looks great just the same.
Nice work. I’d block the cylinder sleeves in place before you turn it over much, they are wet sleeves and the head normally holds them in place. If they move the seal underneath won’t and you’ll get coolant and oil mixing. Good luck!
After more than 30 years away from Alfas I'm trying to get a local car hoarder to sell me a 1971 1750 GTV. A complete and straight but very rusty car, needs everything, but the engine was gone through at 50,500 miles, the car is showing 64,000 miles when it was parked in 1984. I had a 2000 Spider back in the 1980s, did a lot of bodywork on it. Now the itch is returning, clearly a sign of dementia.
By the way, really nice watch all the time on your wrist! A SKX 007?! Looks like you not only know what you are doing, you also know what you want! Cool!
if it were me, I'd probably replace that expensive SPICA with a pait of side-draft weber carbs... you'll still have an intake port for each cylinder. A pair of Webers are expensive, but I doubt it's any more than restoring the SPICA system
Be sure to check the crank oil passage plugs- these had a tendency to loosen and fall out on the 1750. Also put some big flat washers on the tops of the cylinder sleeves so you don't break the seal when turning the motor.
So far so good, degrease the head and have it vapour blasted. When you get it back, triple clean it especially the oil galleries to remove any remnants of grit.
Hi! Looks like you know what you are doing! But how can it be for a man in your age?!😎 But I think, it is very good for the oldtimercene, when young people are interested in this!!!😀 I have a Giulia from 1971 restored by myselve and I bought a 2 liter Spider from 1980. --- And all have the exactly same problems. But you are on a good way to have a lot of fun! By the way, the 1750 is a very nice engine. It combines the power of a 2 liter and the easy revving of the smaller engines. I´m waiting for what happens next! Go on with this!👍
Great video. Definitely gonna be looking out for this series. I want to get this same project car but I am a little apprehensive since I don’t know much about cars. Hopefully your videos can give me the information I need to finally pull the trigger!
When you told your budget I thought "well most of that would go to rebuilding the Spica injection" but like a lot of people I see the carbs at the end 👍🏼
I kept my Spica on my '74 rebuild. If you get a set of headers from Centerline for $500 and it comes with a bun for an A/F sensor or you can weld a bung into the exhaust. Then pick up an Innovate LM-2 "COMPLETE" KIT wide ban O2 sensor to adjust the Spica Cold Start Solenoid which adjusts the set point for the Spica. The rest of the fuel curve is controlled by a cam in the Spica. That way you don't have to guess and drive as well as have a tool that you can use on other projects. Also for the Thermostatic Actuator the is the "Sure Start" cable replacement from ebay for around $150 instead of $400 for a rebuilt Actuator from Wes.
I would at least change the rings and hone the sleeves, also new rod bearings and check the mains, just sayin. I know it my not be in your budget but it’s fairly cheap insurance and will insure a great engine. Good luck 👍🍀 😊
I would take the crank and pistons out and find someplace with a dip tank to ensure all the oil passages and water jackets are clear.
You also may have some stuck piston rings. I'd replace all of them and check the wrist pins.
You'd kick yourself if you reassemble it as it sits, and then it runs like crap.
Couldn’t agree more. Beware of false economies, a little bit more spent now will save 000s later and will give you a better experience when you come to drive it and/or sell it.
"Whatever it is that's disgusting"... that's the cold start mechanism for the Spica. Actually it's a thermo actuator. The probe at the end goes in and out according to the ambient temperature and leans or enriches the fuel. Hang on to it as they are expensive to replace.
The Spica Injection system has quite the learning curve, thank you for the info!
Cheftush Alfa video series has a great resource video on the thermo actuator. I’d check out his videos
I had one of these in UK late 70's early 80's in veloce red, wish I had kept her...
These engines were extremely exotic during the time they were made. It takes a lot of skill to make them right.
Very good, really enjoyed. I know trying to stay within a budget can really be hard sometimes! Anyway I really hope you can get all these oil leaks fixed for good. The bearing surfaces don't look like they need any work. What I would do is put new rings, give the cylinders a quick hone to restore the oil film and get the combustion chamber clean. Only thing I'd give more attention is the valve and their seats. PS: try not to dump oil and grease onto your yard, that stuff is really bad for the environment. Try getting off most of it with some brake cleaner to soften it up and then scoop with paper towels. Waiting for the next episode!
Really amazing how easily the cylinder head came off.These used to be a pain in the neck to do.Some even tried to suspended the cylinder on chain blocks to do it.This engine sounds and looks great just the same.
Awesome series! Alfa owner myself (S4 model) and it’s great to see someone make a video series about the Alfa spiders! Can’t wait for more videos
Nice work. I’d block the cylinder sleeves in place before you turn it over much, they are wet sleeves and the head normally holds them in place. If they move the seal underneath won’t and you’ll get coolant and oil mixing. Good luck!
After more than 30 years away from Alfas I'm trying to get a local car hoarder to sell me a 1971 1750 GTV. A complete and straight but very rusty car, needs everything, but the engine was gone through at 50,500 miles, the car is showing 64,000 miles when it was parked in 1984. I had a 2000 Spider back in the 1980s, did a lot of bodywork on it. Now the itch is returning, clearly a sign of dementia.
Cant wait for next episode
By the way, really nice watch all the time on your wrist!
A SKX 007?!
Looks like you not only know what you are doing, you also know what you want! Cool!
cant wait to see it go back together with carbs
if it were me, I'd probably replace that expensive SPICA with a pait of side-draft weber carbs... you'll still have an intake port for each cylinder. A pair of Webers are expensive, but I doubt it's any more than restoring the SPICA system
wow u got so lucky. nice one
Wo. I didn't expect you to get carbs and ignition. Amazing bro.
Change that lower chain and upper. Probably will im sure.
Wo as an alfa owner. That is a super nice find. Talk about fun. Keep making videos
Great man, looking forward to see progress on that alfa!
Be sure to check the crank oil passage plugs- these had a tendency to loosen and fall out on the 1750. Also put some big flat washers on the tops of the cylinder sleeves so you don't break the seal when turning the motor.
those are the best engines alfa romeo has made
So far so good, degrease the head and have it vapour blasted. When you get it back, triple clean it especially the oil galleries to remove any remnants of grit.
Looks good I’m surprised the one chap didn’t remove his watch, looks an expensive job. Good content…
Indeed !
Looks to be a Seiko SKX, they are extremely robust, so not a big deal.
Hi!
Looks like you know what you are doing!
But how can it be for a man in your age?!😎
But I think, it is very good for the oldtimercene, when young people are interested in this!!!😀
I have a Giulia from 1971 restored by myselve and I bought a 2 liter Spider from 1980.
--- And all have the exactly same problems.
But you are on a good way to have a lot of fun!
By the way, the 1750 is a very nice engine.
It combines the power of a 2 liter and the easy revving of the smaller engines.
I´m waiting for what happens next!
Go on with this!👍
Great video. Definitely gonna be looking out for this series. I want to get this same project car but I am a little apprehensive since I don’t know much about cars. Hopefully your videos can give me the information I need to finally pull the trigger!
What is the stuff that looks like sand pouring out @ 10:43
Even though it's not expensive, you will need cleaning piston tops, etc to maker everything as good as possible?
When you told your budget I thought "well most of that would go to rebuilding the Spica injection" but like a lot of people I see the carbs at the end 👍🏼
I have the same pulley system to yank my small stuff out. Funny, no room for a cherry picker.
Spica mechanical injection that has been sitting for 40 years is nightmare fuel for the word "budget". Good luck.
I think I spotted some carbs at the end of the video..... which is the way to go if you are watching pennies!
Great video, thank you. But your sound is a little erratic, depending where in the garage you are standing, so the sound fades a bit.
I do see a pro at work lol
my son wants one .but the rings are so vulnerable to rust.
What state did you find this in? I’ve been trying to find something like this in California and something in this state here is going for around $5k
I found this car in the north east. You can learn a little more about the car in episode 1 of the series. Thank you!
That engine cries out for a dry sump conversion.
How about TDC before removing camshafts? I would scrap the Spica and go for carburettors....unless you can find a Spica guru.
I kept my Spica on my '74 rebuild. If you get a set of headers from Centerline for $500 and it comes with a bun for an A/F sensor or you can weld a bung into the exhaust. Then pick up an Innovate LM-2 "COMPLETE" KIT wide ban O2 sensor to adjust the Spica Cold Start Solenoid which adjusts the set point for the Spica. The rest of the fuel curve is controlled by a cam in the Spica. That way you don't have to guess and drive as well as have a tool that you can use on other projects. Also for the Thermostatic Actuator the is the "Sure Start" cable replacement from ebay for around $150 instead of $400 for a rebuilt Actuator from Wes.
No worries about the rings?
I would at least change the rings and hone the sleeves, also new rod bearings and check the mains, just sayin. I know it my not be in your budget but it’s fairly cheap insurance and will insure a great engine. Good luck 👍🍀 😊
any coming updates?
New video out later today!
oil leaks are Italian rustproofing.
By the way three, I´m nunber 658!🤣
I have a 69' boat-tail for sale!
Asse agamme alzata da 9 mm
yes shake that powder in your fuel pump
yea only AR are normally leaking AHAHAH
measure your valve clearance first before making that step