Fantastic video! I purchased T-962 and the issues described were also present, I implemented the sugested tape and earth solutions. The oven works very well. I plan to also implement the firmware and other mods mentioned. I am impressed with how accurate and straight to the point your video is.
Great upgrades, although you'd think the manufacturer would do these for us by now. Absolutely would like to see a tutorial for setting up custom reflow profiles.
I have the T-962A model. The chassis in this version is now grounded, I measured continuity on every metal screw including the tray handle. However, the kapton tape mod did not work for me, that horrible smell still persists even after removing all the white masking tape and replacing it with kapton. I do not think the masking tape alone is causing the smell because it is also coming from the white glass wool insulating material. Maybe there's more of the white masking tape under the insulation and yes I did make sure to replace the white tape from the front under the insulation and sealed every gap. I'll do the cold junction mod next as I'm planning to move the oven to my garage where temps are a bit cold during winter time.
I modified my oven with all suggested modifications but there seems to be a problem with my clock/time , the X-axis on the display represents time in minutes but 1 minute is not 1 minute, it looks like my clock is not calibrated , is it possible to adjust the clock ?
Vapor phase is probably more exciting and the right choice when dealing with sensitive components/boards as the temperature is very uniform and precisely controlled with a vapor phase oven. It does come with the disadvantage of hard to find and expensive chemicals. So should we expect a video on this subject on your channel? 😁
Someone should make a DIY Vapor Phase ... Maybe we should ask our local YT electronics nerd to design one, what's his name again ... Marcel Raps? Manny Rops? ... something like that. Joking aside ... They go for close to 2K Euro ... not sure why...
Sir, when I try to change the frequency from 12.000 to 11.059 I get the message: invalid value for crystal frequency. Why? I tried on Win7 and Win10 - no change. Do I have to be connected to the PUHUI PCB all the time? It is also strange that when entering the frequency 12.000 again, the error message does not disappear. Sill: invalid value for crystal frequency.
excellent video, I am following step by step, but I have a doubt in the connection of the module to the oven card, because I see that you make a connection of a few pins and after turning it on you remove it, I do not know if you could aduntar the image of the connection on the module also, excellent tutorial !😃
11:06 and do not forget to connect a freewheeling diode to the fan. This will reduce the load on the MOSFET and the device will probably cause less interference in the radio range.
Hi, excellent video, I just repaired my oven the T-962 the small one just like in your video. I also have an oven T-962C which I made the physical modifications as the small oven, the detail is that when I want to flash I get firmware error, and I have seen a comment where he says that download the most current and change the bauds, the firnware (0.50.1) and bauds to 9600. do you know where I could download the firmware (0.50.1)
Thanks - Yeah, you'd think the manufacturer would have integrated the mods into their product. Especially the ungrounded enclosure issue which could be fixed with a star washer tightened enough to pierce the powder paint.
Thank you for this. I've been thinking about getting this reflow oven (perhaps as a Christmas present to myself! ;-) ). I'd definitely be interested in a follow-up video about setting up custom reflow profiles.
Useful video. I've got one but rarely use it because of unreliability - I tend to fall back to an ancient hotplate and heat from below. I'll try these mods though thanks 😎
You mentioned it's not possible to get similar performance out of modded toaster oven. I was wondering, what are the main reasons behind this statement? Is it because of the resistive heaters vs infrared heaters, and if so, could you elaborate?
What kind of USB to UART serial converter are you using regardind signal (Rx, Tx) voltage level? I found on Amazon two FTDI USB to serial UART versions available, 5V TTL or 3.3V
I used a 3.3V (TTL-232R-3V3-1.8m) and it worked fine. Datasheet for the internal MCU (LPC2134/01) states that Vi max for digital pins is 5V5 so 5V should work for input (USB->MCU), output might be an issue (MCU->USB) as processor will output at most 3V3.
I have just got the T962a and did the firmware and kapton tape mods. Need a cold junction device (will order it) but would also like to add a stirring fan (a DC motor with an axle that goes through the heatshield) that will effectively distribute the heat more evenly.
It works fine with the firmware update and no cold junction compensation yet? I haven't done the firmware update because I didn't want to brick it while I was waiting for the temp IC to come in...
@@zbubby1202 I agree. It work’s well enough but if you could refine it more it’d give you a mor consistent flow. But for my uses the pizza gets cooked well enough in it 😉
I have completed my conversion and update per your extremely helpful and clear video. I have found that one of my T/C channels has a ~10C bias (not the T/C, I have tried many replacements and the other channel matches the DS18B20 exactly). Finding no hardware cause, I would like to try modifying the source code, but there does not seem to be any documentation on how to compile. What API or compiler can I use to build the hex file for loading with FlashMagic?
Is it possible they fitted the wrong type of thermocouple at the factory? If this unit has two thermocouples, have you tried swapping them to see if the error follows the TC?
@@alexscarbro796 I flipped the T/Cs, used new ones, and even sacrificed a chicken. I am concluding that it is a querk of the board. I am using biases in the setup parameters to compensate, and I added other hardware modifications (fan, baffles, etc.) to eliminate hot and cold spots. It seems pretty OK now based on my own T/C meter. Thanks.
you should check if NXP has a tool for checking alternative series swap outs and if these no hardware/pinout difference you can swap em out going off the part number i would guess its just a flash/ram difference
I've tried this but the program always fails to autobaud, I've tried different PCs, program versions and usb-ttl converters but none seems to work so I assume something is off in the pcb, any advise?
If the PWM pin for the fan can act as a GPIO, couldn't you also make a probe to have it actually on the PCB? Would that help the reflowing abilities of the oven, being able to detect the actual PCB temp?
I'm not sure I follow your idea, how would having a probe on the PCB help? Even if you had such a probe, the gradients in the oven and hence on the board would still be present.
I would say these days it's a combination of both. I do order ready assembled boards frequently but sometimes I also need to do some assembly myself because of various reasons like: time, flexibility, swapping out parts, etc.
I did all of the above modifications. Just to find out, the oven is absolutely useless - it doesn't have enough power to follow any sensible temperature profile and continuously lags behind with increasingly large deltas the more time has passed. Trying to use some no-name solder paste, it doesn't even get it to melt before the cool-down starts again. Don't get me wrong, the above video is great, and exactly what you want to do to your oven. But I for myself didn't get any use out of it, despite the time I had put in to improve it.
Fantastic video! I purchased T-962 and the issues described were also present, I implemented the sugested tape and earth solutions. The oven works very well. I plan to also implement the firmware and other mods mentioned. I am impressed with how accurate and straight to the point your video is.
I just bought this oven and have not yet used it. So glad to see this before I did. Thanks for going into such detail.
I just done these awesome upgrades now, thanks for the video 🙏, “”IMPORTANT NOTE: don’t forget to set the adapter to 3,3v””
really helpful, Krypton tape and cold junction sensor added, and updated firmware. TBH having fan being noisy is helpful.
Great video, thanks a lot!
Great upgrades, although you'd think the manufacturer would do these for us by now. Absolutely would like to see a tutorial for setting up custom reflow profiles.
Noted!
I have the T-962A model. The chassis in this version is now grounded, I measured continuity on every metal screw including the tray handle. However, the kapton tape mod did not work for me, that horrible smell still persists even after removing all the white masking tape and replacing it with kapton. I do not think the masking tape alone is causing the smell because it is also coming from the white glass wool insulating material. Maybe there's more of the white masking tape under the insulation and yes I did make sure to replace the white tape from the front under the insulation and sealed every gap. I'll do the cold junction mod next as I'm planning to move the oven to my garage where temps are a bit cold during winter time.
It will be great if you can do a video about calibrating and also run few tests.
WARNING ALL WHO TRY TO REFLASH!!! DO NOT USE THE HEATSINKS AS GROUND THEY ARE 24V +
I modified my oven with all suggested modifications but there seems to be a problem with my clock/time , the X-axis on the display represents time in minutes but 1 minute is not 1 minute, it looks like my clock is not calibrated , is it possible to adjust the clock ?
Thank you so much for this immensely helpful video!🖖
Nice, I want one. Should I get this or the A version?
....... or save for vapor phase?
Vapor phase is probably more exciting and the right choice when dealing with sensitive components/boards as the temperature is very uniform and precisely controlled with a vapor phase oven. It does come with the disadvantage of hard to find and expensive chemicals. So should we expect a video on this subject on your channel? 😁
Huh? No selective laser reflow?
I just came here from watching your Open Source 8.5 Digit Voltmeter video, so, I guess you made the right choice.
Someone should make a DIY Vapor Phase ... Maybe we should ask our local YT electronics nerd to design one, what's his name again ... Marcel Raps? Manny Rops? ... something like that.
Joking aside ... They go for close to 2K Euro ... not sure why...
Sir, when I try to change the frequency from 12.000 to 11.059 I get the message: invalid value for crystal frequency. Why? I tried on Win7 and Win10 - no change. Do I have to be connected to the PUHUI PCB all the time? It is also strange that when entering the frequency 12.000 again, the error message does not disappear. Sill: invalid value for crystal frequency.
Great video. Just made the upgrades.
I had an issue with the autobaud (LPC2134/01) but was resolved by keeping the n_ISP pin grounded during the whole process.
Legendary comment
excellent video, I am following step by step, but I have a doubt in the connection of the module to the oven card, because I see that you make a connection of a few pins and after turning it on you remove it, I do not know if you could aduntar the image of the connection on the module also, excellent tutorial !😃
Excellent video.
11:06 and do not forget to connect a freewheeling diode to the fan. This will reduce the load on the MOSFET and the device will probably cause less interference in the radio range.
Hi, excellent video, I just repaired my oven the T-962 the small one just like in your video.
I also have an oven T-962C which I made the physical modifications as the small oven, the detail is that when I want to flash I get firmware error, and I have seen a comment where he says that download the most current and change the bauds, the firnware (0.50.1) and bauds to 9600.
do you know where I could download the firmware (0.50.1)
Thanks - Yeah, you'd think the manufacturer would have integrated the mods into their product. Especially the ungrounded enclosure issue which could be fixed with a star washer tightened enough to pierce the powder paint.
Thank you for this. I've been thinking about getting this reflow oven (perhaps as a Christmas present to myself! ;-) ). I'd definitely be interested in a follow-up video about setting up custom reflow profiles.
Thank you! Working on that.
I like how your English is improving
Useful video. I've got one but rarely use it because of unreliability - I tend to fall back to an ancient hotplate and heat from below. I'll try these mods though thanks 😎
I mean if a hot plate works great for your process just embrace it 👍
Very cool video!
Would love to see a followup video
You mentioned it's not possible to get similar performance out of modded toaster oven. I was wondering, what are the main reasons behind this statement? Is it because of the resistive heaters vs infrared heaters, and if so, could you elaborate?
What kind of USB to UART serial converter are you using regardind signal (Rx, Tx) voltage level?
I found on Amazon two FTDI USB to serial UART versions available, 5V TTL or 3.3V
I used a 3.3V (TTL-232R-3V3-1.8m) and it worked fine.
Datasheet for the internal MCU (LPC2134/01) states that Vi max for digital pins is 5V5 so 5V should work for input (USB->MCU), output might be an issue (MCU->USB) as processor will output at most 3V3.
I have just got the T962a and did the firmware and kapton tape mods. Need a cold junction device (will order it) but would also like to add a stirring fan (a DC motor with an axle that goes through the heatshield) that will effectively distribute the heat more evenly.
It works fine with the firmware update and no cold junction compensation yet? I haven't done the firmware update because I didn't want to brick it while I was waiting for the temp IC to come in...
@@zbubby1202 I agree. It work’s well enough but if you could refine it more it’d give you a mor consistent flow. But for my uses the pizza gets cooked well enough in it 😉
Nice video
I made the mods and updated, but how do you calibrate the gain and offset of the thermocouples?
Thank tou for your video. Could you please put the link for the white thermal silicone? Thank you agin.
voltlog.com/y/k8c3z
Great video, thank you. :)
2N7000 for fan surprised me, but the maths says it is ok for the low fan current. :)
Can this be used for reballing? Will I be able to pop a chip off once it gets hot enough?
Or should I invest in better more suited equipment
I have completed my conversion and update per your extremely helpful and clear video. I have found that one of my T/C channels has a ~10C bias (not the T/C, I have tried many replacements and the other channel matches the DS18B20 exactly). Finding no hardware cause, I would like to try modifying the source code, but there does not seem to be any documentation on how to compile. What API or compiler can I use to build the hex file for loading with FlashMagic?
Is it possible they fitted the wrong type of thermocouple at the factory?
If this unit has two thermocouples, have you tried swapping them to see if the error follows the TC?
@@alexscarbro796 I flipped the T/Cs, used new ones, and even sacrificed a chicken. I am concluding that it is a querk of the board. I am using biases in the setup parameters to compensate, and I added other hardware modifications (fan, baffles, etc.) to eliminate hot and cold spots. It seems pretty OK now based on my own T/C meter. Thanks.
Is it okay to solder the sensor on before flashing the new firmware?
My NXP lpc2134 micro controller is faulty. Unable to get the same chip.I found a NXP LPC2138 micro controller ..Can it be used
you should check if NXP has a tool for checking alternative series swap outs and if these no hardware/pinout difference you can swap em out
going off the part number i would guess its just a flash/ram difference
I've tried this but the program always fails to autobaud, I've tried different PCs, program versions and usb-ttl converters but none seems to work so I assume something is off in the pcb, any advise?
@Adam Iantorno same issue
Why is the factory ... the manufacturer not able to update it by themselves? They know the current issue with their oven and does not change it?
If the PWM pin for the fan can act as a GPIO, couldn't you also make a probe to have it actually on the PCB? Would that help the reflowing abilities of the oven, being able to detect the actual PCB temp?
I'm not sure I follow your idea, how would having a probe on the PCB help? Even if you had such a probe, the gradients in the oven and hence on the board would still be present.
Still wondering if it's worth getting an oven together VS having boards made via the internet.
I would say these days it's a combination of both. I do order ready assembled boards frequently but sometimes I also need to do some assembly myself because of various reasons like: time, flexibility, swapping out parts, etc.
It depends, but a lot of the time if you have to buy all the equipment--you can get hundreds of boards made... And, even populated in a lot of cases.
I did all of the above modifications. Just to find out, the oven is absolutely useless - it doesn't have enough power to follow any sensible temperature profile and continuously lags behind with increasingly large deltas the more time has passed. Trying to use some no-name solder paste, it doesn't even get it to melt before the cool-down starts again.
Don't get me wrong, the above video is great, and exactly what you want to do to your oven. But I for myself didn't get any use out of it, despite the time I had put in to improve it.
👍
Does anyone have experience making any of these mods, if needed, to the larger model 962C unit?
Are you scared of ac?
Реальную температуру можно измерить при помощи термопрофайлера САХАРА Т8-20
Das hat Frank Sinatra nicht verdient...
So what did frank not deserve?