Some also can’t live without useless gimmicky tools. Remove manifold. Weld regular old grade 5 nut of appropriate size to fit over stud without shortening it first. Remove broken stud, save your money. Stud broken off below gasket surface? Select slightly larger nut and fill cavity with weld, making sure to start arc on broken stud and fill to nut. Remove stud, save your money. Stubborn studs may require rocking with a wrench. Contrary to video advice, always use hand tools for this- it allows you to feel how much torque is required to move the fastener. Stubborn? Work it back and forth first. Fill exhaust port with piece of fibreglass cloth prior to welding.
If there are studs sticking out. Hammer a nut onto the studs and mig weld the nut onto the studs and then un wind the studs. There’s no need for that tool however good it is
@@mikethatguy27 NO this tool does not do it quicker or easier. This tool requires you to torch or cut the studs off near flush with the head and grind them flat if need be. By that time I'd have all of the studs out after welding nuts on the protruding studs, and that's only IF I had to go that far. >15 years working a shop in the rust belt less than 30 miles from Canada I've removed 100s of manifolds in the very worst of the worst condition. Even if the stud is already broke off flush or recessed it's still quicker to just hold a nut up to the hole with some vise grips and build up weld from the stud until the nut is filled in and welded to it than bolting this $100-$250 gizmo in place to do the same thing after a few more steps with their 'thin nuts'. About the only things I agree with shown in this vid is when the nuts are that rusted and worn down don't waste time trying to wrench them off as you're just going to snap one or more studs off making more work than need be. Just grab the torch and flush the studs off to get the manifold out of your way so you can then go after the protruding studs. The heat/quench is a good tip too. Much of the time you can just spin the studs out easily after making them red then quickly cooling them off using an extractor socket or even just a pair of vise grips as long as you don't go all gorilla and work them back and forth little by little till they spin free. If they don't seem like they are going to budge quick and easy like that then I'll start welding nuts onto the studs.
@@TJK0ng I've down damn near a hundred manifolds, they are cake when you learn the quicker ways, it's not that big of a deal, it's a tool to help people who need it , do yours your way. No need to talk down on the way someone else does it... maybe some people think your way is shtt but you don't hear them complaining.
@@DieselDog1982 I'm always looking for a tool or method that is faster and easier. I watched because I had high hopes this might be the ticket, but after watching the vid and seeing the price $$$$ they want for various models, this sure aint it.
I know right i got steel studs but had to notch two to replace my manifold as it broke one day while my uncle was driving it over a stump i notched the studs and it gives your just enought wiggle room to slide the old manifold out and new one in
You may want to make sure you exhaust valves are closed or plug ports so grinding dust does not enter the combustion chamber and destroy your piston rings.
@@austinkerzisnik8750 The combustion chamber is in the head,the debris will fall into the cylinder and it's quite likely some will make it down the side of the crown into the ringlands and can ruin that cylinder very rapidly,Things don't just automatically get 'blown' out of the exhaust,balls of torch spatter for example would bounce around in that cylinder, there's the chance of it getting stuck between a closing valve and it's seat causing piston to valve contact,until then it will likely bounce around peening the crap out of everything including the tip of the plug and with direct injection,the tip of the injector too.,look at the damage caused to combustion chambers on ally heads from running no air filter for instance,if you make those sort of needless assumptions you will find out to your cost. I have seen plenty of cases where just small amounts of dislodged crud,crap or debris in the right place have finished an engine. One example was a tiny piece of plastic dropped into the plug hole of a Porsche Cayenne with the fitter assuming it would be ok. £18000,was the cost of that assumption after it picked the top ring out which then took the nikasil off and machined a deep wide groove in the ally cylinder in one 5 minute drive. One of my own customers tried to de crud his Mazda petrol skyactive which resulted in crud getting in one cylinder and the the liner of that cylinder shattering into pieces with 2 fragments actually making it through the outer wall of the coolant jacket and protruding from the block!
I've made many drill guide fixtures in the past.This tool could be a last resort.seeing as how in this case you had 7 studs sticking out still ,it would be more prudent to try a good pair of vise grips on those studs to SEE if they break loose or just break. OR simply put Non zinc nuts over the studs and weld those on.OR 3rd try a external stud remover.BUT all that being said,the idea of using an aluminum plate and CNC it to hold your patented nuts in place is great,and the nut you turned down so it has a shoulder is innovative,i like it.nice work.
Broken studs come lot easier without cooling, as soon as the welded broken stops glowing thats when to ratchet it out. When stud is cooled back down it freezes back worse then before.....
Yeah I've found instantly hitting heated stuff up with cold water till u can touch by hand breaks the rust up and is easy to remove, when everything is hot it is ALL expanded , or hot metal in aluminum the stud is expanded and aluminum isn't making it harder to remove
I've pulled hundreds of broken studs from triton heads , never once have I drilled one or taken a motor out to do it. ONLY smart thing ford did on that motor was aluminum heads, I weld a nut in the broken stud and out she comes. Even broken 1/4" or more down I easily get em out. Worse case the first two or three threads get boogered up.
If the nut was spaced out away from the head one washer thickness, the fresh welded nut could be hit with a hammer. The hammer hit will cause the threads of the hout bolts to roll up a little while the block threads will not. That process would greatly improve this procedure. That is an old school trick. Very neat tool idea.
You need a different tool to clean the rust off the tip to get a good weld, or if it’s really rusty you just pick it out and use a chemical that furthers the rust while not eating aluminum (so definitely not sodium hydroxide which eats aluminum but not steel, but maybe vinegar or similar)
I just sold a Lincoln 225A stick my dad bought just before I was born. I'm 40.....the welder still worked!! I promise you their modern version of that welder won't last that long.
It's hard to explain to a customer why this job can be so expensive, I fully believe your 10 hours was justified. Early Nissan V6s were bad at this and they were such a pain to get at, we regularly spent 3 to 4 hours just on the back manifold.
@@sorryimajerk735 Okay, first of all, I never said anything about being a tech. Second, it's not against any laws to not know how to weld. I just happen to be a musician, and that may go way over your head. Because I also happen to be an auto mechanic and a computer tech. Just don't have welding skills. But thank you for your help and concern.
@@wacvader Not saying this to be mean, but if you have no welding experience, this is not the job to gain it on. It can turn to 5h!t real quick. Mig is easy to learn and a good skill to have but there is a big difference in being able to weld and being good at it.
Never needed a tool,i've just drilled them out, then tapped them,just done 8 on VW beetle engine,a right pain, but can be done without specialist tools. The key is flat the surface of the stud ,and center punch the suckers,dead center, on the VW, i cut the studs off ,leaving about 5mm proud, didn't even try to double nut them,as once the stud brackets inside the thread,you need to mig weld.
Always wanted to build jigs to remove broken studs. My concept was to center the drill bit to accurately drill a centered hole so a removal tool could be used. Looks like a great concept if you have a welder. The problem is that you have cast iron manifolds and an aluminum head. The two materials heat and cool at different rates. The stresses cause the bolts to break. Another problem is that steel and aluminum are different metals. Due to this they tend to stick together. Why the broken steel bolts "stick" in the aluminum threads of the cylinder head. Heat breaks the bond between the steel and aluminum. The jig is made of aluminum. The weld wire is steel, as is the broken bolt. When you weld the steel nut to the steel stud, the "weld" will not stick to the aluminum guide plate. Great idea.
YEAH, LISLE HAS ONE FOR ALL POPULAR V8 AND OTHE RENGINES, ANOTHER GUY MAKES ONE FOR LS CAN REMEMBER I HAVE EM ALL AND USE EM ONLY FOR THE ONES BROKE OFF DEEP INSIDE. A 1/8 INCH DIE GRINDER WITH SOME CARBIDE TOOLING IS YOUR BACKUP INCASE OF BROKEN DRILLS OR TAPS OR EASY OUTS. WHICH I NEVER USE. A TORX BIT IS THE BEST BOLT EXTRACTOR U CAN GET AND U ALREADY HAVE EM ALL IN YOUR BOX ALREADY
At first I thought this was a joke like they were gonna grind off the studs and then epoxy a exhaust manifold on or something stupid like I’ve seen on RUclips. When I saw it work I was blown away, this things awesome.
What is the point of this don't need this tool and if it's broke off inside the heat just build the bolt up with weld and a nut all this "tool" does it hold the nut
What a silly thing to do. If the broken studs come out that easy, I'd never cut them off like that. I'd use pliers or locking pliers and just unscrew them.
Are you serious there is no way you can get that close to the bolts either the engine in the trust heck anybody con do that out of the truck just saying
Hello, has anyone ever used stainless steel studs at any phase of assembly of these types of things?! I know, never use a stainless steel nut on a stainless steel stud, they auto-weld, use a regular steel nut, thank you.
this is a nice tool. but this is how mechanics usually remove the studs. Ford and Ram should have to pay for all these repairs. it's inexcusable why a truck costs $60k and the manifold bolts rot away in 3 years. I had a GMC sonoma with a 2.2L 4cyl engine that I just sold a year ago and the bolts on the manifold look like brand new ones still. 260k miles old.
All i want is the carbide brush wheel and some of those nuts with the tapered collar. The tool itself is kinda useless since its manifold specific and requires torching studs that wouldve potentially came off normally. Also....no way that snap on electric rachet alone zipped those off. Its doesnt even impact. video must be staged for demo purposes i suspect.
If you own a 5.4 Ford the best thing you can do is Jack up the radiator cap and drive any other brand of truck under it. ......well except maybe a Dodge
Why cut off the exposed studs when you could weld nuts to them and work them out? So you cut them off then weld nuts to them? Sorta stupid to do it like your video shows! Using a wrench to work them free not an air ratchet or electric ratchet. Less work and better results.
Interesting gimmick. But kever meeded one all these years amd never had a problem. Right angle drill and a torx bit for the broken ones amd a twist bit for the one with enough meat. Never needed a welder.
yeah...always some new idea to generate sales but is it really better. The real world nitty gritty of the job done with the engine in the bay is not so easy as it looks in the demo.
Under no circumstances do you ever grind off a stud sticking out i don't give a damn what tool you have. Is this a good tool from the looks of it yes, but it's an old trick from god knows how many years back. But consumables are involved. Using that torch to heat those studs and using an ordinary stud remover those can be turned out with little effort and using up nothing but a little oxy/ahc. Use of a tool like this is last resort.
![How To Remove Broken Manifold Bolts with the EZ Stud Out Kit [REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/upHlqGSypjU/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Remove Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts [LS HEADS and More]](/img/1.gif)
Sum can't live without music.
I can
@@allywilkeforsenate 😳😹🤣😂🤣😹😹
Most can.
Lol I can’t figure it out either
Some also can’t live without useless gimmicky tools. Remove manifold. Weld regular old grade 5 nut of appropriate size to fit over stud without shortening it first. Remove broken stud, save your money. Stud broken off below gasket surface? Select slightly larger nut and fill cavity with weld, making sure to start arc on broken stud and fill to nut. Remove stud, save your money. Stubborn studs may require rocking with a wrench. Contrary to video advice, always use hand tools for this- it allows you to feel how much torque is required to move the fastener. Stubborn? Work it back and forth first. Fill exhaust port with piece of fibreglass cloth prior to welding.
If there are studs sticking out. Hammer a nut onto the studs and mig weld the nut onto the studs and then un wind the studs. There’s no need for that tool however good it is
This tool does that except quicker and easier💯🙌✌
@@mikethatguy27 NO this tool does not do it quicker or easier. This tool requires you to torch or cut the studs off near flush with the head and grind them flat if need be. By that time I'd have all of the studs out after welding nuts on the protruding studs, and that's only IF I had to go that far. >15 years working a shop in the rust belt less than 30 miles from Canada I've removed 100s of manifolds in the very worst of the worst condition.
Even if the stud is already broke off flush or recessed it's still quicker to just hold a nut up to the hole with some vise grips and build up weld from the stud until the nut is filled in and welded to it than bolting this $100-$250 gizmo in place to do the same thing after a few more steps with their 'thin nuts'.
About the only things I agree with shown in this vid is when the nuts are that rusted and worn down don't waste time trying to wrench them off as you're just going to snap one or more studs off making more work than need be. Just grab the torch and flush the studs off to get the manifold out of your way so you can then go after the protruding studs. The heat/quench is a good tip too. Much of the time you can just spin the studs out easily after making them red then quickly cooling them off using an extractor socket or even just a pair of vise grips as long as you don't go all gorilla and work them back and forth little by little till they spin free. If they don't seem like they are going to budge quick and easy like that then I'll start welding nuts onto the studs.
@@TJK0ng I've down damn near a hundred manifolds, they are cake when you learn the quicker ways, it's not that big of a deal, it's a tool to help people who need it , do yours your way. No need to talk down on the way someone else does it... maybe some people think your way is shtt but you don't hear them complaining.
@@mikethatguy27 no it doesnt. It takes as long as u take to weld in eitger situation.
@@DieselDog1982 I'm always looking for a tool or method that is faster and easier. I watched because I had high hopes this might be the ticket, but after watching the vid and seeing the price $$$$ they want for various models, this sure aint it.
I just don’t understand why they made these engines with self ejecting spark plugs, but couldn’t do the same with the exhaust studs.
😆🙌💯 no kidding
LOL!
Laughs in vortec
Hi. Congratulations on winning the internet!!
I know right i got steel studs but had to notch two to replace my manifold as it broke one day while my uncle was driving it over a stump i notched the studs and it gives your just enought wiggle room to slide the old manifold out and new one in
You may want to make sure you exhaust valves are closed or plug ports so grinding dust does not enter the combustion chamber and destroy your piston rings.
a rag in the hole sounds alot easier
it would most likely blow the shit out the exhaust before entering the combustion chamber
@@austinkerzisnik8750 The combustion chamber is in the head,the debris will fall into the cylinder and it's quite likely some will make it down the side of the crown into the ringlands and can ruin that cylinder very rapidly,Things don't just automatically get 'blown' out of the exhaust,balls of torch spatter for example would bounce around in that cylinder, there's the chance of it getting stuck between a closing valve and it's seat causing piston to valve contact,until then it will likely bounce around peening the crap out of everything including the tip of the plug and with direct injection,the tip of the injector too.,look at the damage caused to combustion chambers on ally heads from running no air filter for instance,if you make those sort of needless assumptions you will find out to your cost. I have seen plenty of cases where just small amounts of dislodged crud,crap or debris in the right place have finished an engine. One example was a tiny piece of plastic dropped into the plug hole of a Porsche Cayenne with the fitter assuming it would be ok. £18000,was the cost of that assumption after it picked the top ring out which then took the nikasil off and machined a deep wide groove in the ally cylinder in one 5 minute drive. One of my own customers tried to de crud his Mazda petrol skyactive which resulted in crud getting in one cylinder and the the liner of that cylinder shattering into pieces with 2 fragments actually making it through the outer wall of the coolant jacket and protruding from the block!
@@smellmyfingure just don’t forget to take it out like I do all the time
@@latenttweet
Better to be safe than sorry. Keep the rag in there at all times!
Most people can't tell if the V8 is running on all cylinders anyways.
I've made many drill guide fixtures in the past.This tool could be a last resort.seeing as how in this case you had 7 studs sticking out still ,it would be more prudent to try a good pair of vise grips on those studs to SEE if they break loose or just break. OR simply put Non zinc nuts over the studs and weld those on.OR 3rd try a external stud remover.BUT all that being said,the idea of using an aluminum plate and CNC it to hold your patented nuts in place is great,and the nut you turned down so it has a shoulder is innovative,i like it.nice work.
THEY ALWAYS COME OUT. HEAT AND PATIENCE IS KEY
Man this is one of the coolest tools I've ever seen. Great job y'all
Damn the things people come up with! Love it
Broken studs come lot easier without cooling, as soon as the welded broken stops glowing thats when to ratchet it out. When stud is cooled back down it freezes back worse then before.....
Not in my experience. The quench helps break the bond.
@@gordbaker896 YES SIR!
Or try cooling it with oil.
Yeah I've found instantly hitting heated stuff up with cold water till u can touch by hand breaks the rust up and is easy to remove, when everything is hot it is ALL expanded , or hot metal in aluminum the stud is expanded and aluminum isn't making it harder to remove
I've pulled hundreds of broken studs from triton heads , never once have I drilled one or taken a motor out to do it. ONLY smart thing ford did on that motor was aluminum heads, I weld a nut in the broken stud and out she comes. Even broken 1/4" or more down I easily get em out. Worse case the first two or three threads get boogered up.
Yep I did the same thing to my 98E8 5.4 that came out of my Box Van
If the nut was spaced out away from the head one washer thickness, the fresh welded nut could be hit with a hammer. The hammer hit will cause the threads of the hout bolts to roll up a little while the block threads will not. That process would greatly improve this procedure. That is an old school trick. Very neat tool idea.
Looks great. Are those nuts in the opening and they get welded in place or is that molten metal in the shape of a nut added?
You can see the nuts installed at 1:18
Yea n pray the bolts are not so rusty every weld breaks off every time
You need a different tool to clean the rust off the tip to get a good weld, or if it’s really rusty you just pick it out and use a chemical that furthers the rust while not eating aluminum (so definitely not sodium hydroxide which eats aluminum but not steel, but maybe vinegar or similar)
I don't know why I watched this or why it was recommended but hey, now I know how to remove busted studs
You're gay
Best removal job I have seen. Now I need a mig welder instead of my 40 year old ac stick welder.
I just sold a Lincoln 225A stick my dad bought just before I was born. I'm 40.....the welder still worked!! I promise you their modern version of that welder won't last that long.
A note to the video producer: the audio levels between the dialogue and the music are extreme.
Is it necessary to piss on it after welding? Just seems like extra step not needed and probably doesn’t smell good
I saw one guy, take a pair of needle nose, vice grips and hold the nut in place with one hand and weld with the other hand worked just as good
Might not wanna do any of that cutting and grinding and spraying before you tape off those open exhaust ports...
Glad someone else said it, because i was cringing.
Is it possible to buy the specific EZ Stud plate for one engine, rather than a kit?
So, being a noob, what kind of gas/mixture is being used in the MIG torch?
Usually 75/25 Argon/CO2
If you let the weld cool down slowly and didn't quench it, it wouldn't be as brittle.
Neat tool but is it needed? Seems to be handy for clean welds, but.. ?
Sweet..I need one of those
They are $150 still want one!
Did the “work” truck. 2001 f250. Vice grips on stud hanging out of cyl head. 10 yes 10 hours. 7 out of 8. My boss thanked me for a week after done.
It's hard to explain to a customer why this job can be so expensive, I fully believe your 10 hours was justified. Early Nissan V6s were bad at this and they were such a pain to get at, we regularly spent 3 to 4 hours just on the back manifold.
I like the invention, but what if you don't have any welding experience?
Never too late to acquire some
THEN YOUR OBVIOUSLY NOT A REAL TECHNICIAN AND THIS JOB IS SO FAR OVER YOUR HEAD ITS LAUGHABLE
Any mechanic in the rust belt should have welding experience!
@@sorryimajerk735 Okay, first of all, I never said anything about being a tech. Second, it's not against any laws to not know how to weld. I just happen to be a musician, and that may go way over your head. Because I also happen to be an auto mechanic and a computer tech. Just don't have welding skills. But thank you for your help and concern.
@@wacvader Not saying this to be mean, but if you have no welding experience, this is not the job to gain it on. It can turn to 5h!t real quick.
Mig is easy to learn and a good skill to have but there is a big difference in being able to weld and being good at it.
Wow what ahandy tool how much is it and were would a person find it
I just use heat to remove them and if they break I just use a nut. But it looks like a pretty cool tool
Awesome job guys! 😳🙂😉🇺🇸🇺🇸
Never needed a tool,i've just drilled them out, then tapped them,just done 8 on VW beetle engine,a right pain, but can be done without specialist tools. The key is flat the surface of the stud ,and center punch the suckers,dead center, on the VW, i cut the studs off ,leaving about 5mm proud, didn't even try to double nut them,as once the stud brackets inside the thread,you need to mig weld.
Why would u cut off a stud that is above the surface,? U went backwards to go forwards
Interesting tool but most of those would have come out with a stud extractor…
Or a wrench
@@tonys901yeah that would work too. Maybe he cut them all off for demonstrating the tool but I only weld the ones that need it.
really great tool specially for the one that broke far way in
Your English sucks
Will this work for the 3.7 6 cylinder F150
How do I purchase your tool?
Or just use vice grips on the exposed studs to twist them out after spraying with pb blaster.
So why does Ford Charge me 2hrs labor for each for each stud they have to remove...
Not sure about flash cooling it but ya it works
with that much stud sticking out initially a stud remover should make quick work of the non broken ones
Always wanted to build jigs to remove broken studs. My concept was to center the drill bit to accurately drill a centered hole so a removal tool could be used. Looks like a great concept if you have a welder. The problem is that you have cast iron manifolds and an aluminum head. The two materials heat and cool at different rates. The stresses cause the bolts to break. Another problem is that steel and aluminum are different metals. Due to this they tend to stick together. Why the broken steel bolts "stick" in the aluminum threads of the cylinder head. Heat breaks the bond between the steel and aluminum. The jig is made of aluminum. The weld wire is steel, as is the broken bolt. When you weld the steel nut to the steel stud, the "weld" will not stick to the aluminum guide plate. Great idea.
YEAH, LISLE HAS ONE FOR ALL POPULAR V8 AND OTHE RENGINES, ANOTHER GUY MAKES ONE FOR LS CAN REMEMBER I HAVE EM ALL AND USE EM ONLY FOR THE ONES BROKE OFF DEEP INSIDE. A 1/8 INCH DIE GRINDER WITH SOME CARBIDE TOOLING IS YOUR BACKUP INCASE OF BROKEN DRILLS OR TAPS OR EASY OUTS. WHICH I NEVER USE. A TORX BIT IS THE BEST BOLT EXTRACTOR U CAN GET AND U ALREADY HAVE EM ALL IN YOUR BOX ALREADY
Yeah!!! Try doing that when in the truck!!!!!
looks like it is
Dumbass Award right here. 😆 🤣
I broke some exhaust studs on my DeSoto Hemi heads wish I had equipment like that to use
No link to buy?
$500-600 on ebay
@@keithskustoms2311 😮
Could've literally used a mini-ductor and been done with it.
Fords 5.4 triton motor was great till it got wet unfortunately they all have these issues in the northeast and then some
What kind of voodoo magic is this??
Where do I find this in the 5.4?
Guess they don't answer questions 🙄
4.6 5.4 6.8 Triton 2v engines share the same bolt patterns. 3v engines are different.
At first I thought this was a joke like they were gonna grind off the studs and then epoxy a exhaust manifold on or something stupid like I’ve seen on RUclips. When I saw it work I was blown away, this things awesome.
What is the point of this don't need this tool and if it's broke off inside the heat just build the bolt up with weld and a nut all this "tool" does it hold the nut
if you have stud sticking out you just need some heat and a stud extractor.....this tool seems well thought but not really neccessary.
Why would you cut the studs flush? Just use a speed socket on the stud, with a lil heat if needed and if that doesn't work then weld a nut to it.
Wish i had one of thease for my ls..
That’s awesome
Great tool awesome video 👍
Do they make em for C15?????
Fuck Chevy. I mean Chitty
How awesome!
What a silly thing to do. If the broken studs come out that easy, I'd never cut them off like that. I'd use pliers or locking pliers and just unscrew them.
mostly its the heat that expands studs and then the water shocks them and shrinks them !
Are you serious there is no way you can get that close to the bolts either the engine in the trust heck anybody con do that out of the truck just saying
What about rusted steel bolts in a steel head??
there are no steel heads..they are cast iron..unless you have steel headers...original motors dont..
@@ericsandrin8123 - I meant hard metal as opposed to aluminum, terminology Nazi!!
Hello, has anyone ever used stainless steel studs at any phase of assembly of these types of things?! I know, never use a stainless steel nut on a stainless steel stud, they auto-weld, use a regular steel nut, thank you.
Brilliant
Wow. Sometimes technology is really cool,
Sweet! 🎉
That’s a awesome tool
this is a nice tool. but this is how mechanics usually remove the studs.
Ford and Ram should have to pay for all these repairs. it's inexcusable why a truck costs $60k and the manifold bolts rot away in 3 years. I had a GMC sonoma with a 2.2L 4cyl engine that I just sold a year ago and the bolts on the manifold look like brand new ones still. 260k miles old.
Very cool!!
I always just used a vice grip and whatever scrap nuts but ok this works too
All i want is the carbide brush wheel and some of those nuts with the tapered collar. The tool itself is kinda useless since its manifold specific and requires torching studs that wouldve potentially came off normally. Also....no way that snap on electric rachet alone zipped those off. Its doesnt even impact. video must be staged for demo purposes i suspect.
Why $150? Monopoly?
MUSIC WAY TOO LOUD
Another example of why the big three are not going to be.
Now that is a neat tool!
If you own a 5.4 Ford the best thing you can do is Jack up the radiator cap and drive any other brand of truck under it. ......well except maybe a Dodge
thats like going from bad to worst
Another example of where ford is so crappy it needs a special tool for what should never be an issue.
Step one pass over anything with a 5.4.
POWDER COATING MUST BE WHAT KEEPS BRACKET FROM SEIZING TO NEWLY FORMED NUT
That or perhaps hard anodized.
It's Aluminum - welds don't stick to it due to the aluminum oxide layer on the surface. This is why when welding aluminum, an inert gas is needed.
Yeah well let's see it done on cast iron head
ONLY a $150.00 this is a ! WTF ! moment if I ever seen one!
Kinda hard to hear you talking after the music has deafened us
Why cut off the exposed studs when you could weld nuts to them and work them out? So you cut them off then weld nuts to them? Sorta stupid to do it like your video shows! Using a wrench to work them free not an air ratchet or electric ratchet. Less work and better results.
Where can I buy this tool Ford will not sell it to you
Hi Fred, there's a link in the description. Thanks!!
So where is the kit for Duramax engines?
@@ezstudout3228 do this work on engine 4.9300l6
@@ezstudout3228 I have that engine on my Ford bronco 1987 and I was wonder if this is for all fords engines ????
Good video,but what does the sorry ass music contribute to the video?
now show me how you got the other four studs out,thats the tool i need ,not the easy access ones
I just paid ford 1200. Shoulda cought that and a welder 😒🙈🤦♂️
Great tool, horrible music/noise
SPANKIN GOOD DEAL I MUST SAY CLEVER DEAL
wow!
Nice!
Yeah, the music sucks! However, this is a great tool.
In all cases you should burn and destroy All Ford 5.4
Interesting gimmick. But kever meeded one all these years amd never had a problem.
Right angle drill and a torx bit for the broken ones amd a twist bit for the one with enough meat. Never needed a welder.
yeah...always some new idea to generate sales but is it really better. The real world nitty gritty of the job done with the engine in the bay is not so easy as it looks in the demo.
YES. Torx bits work well. Choose size carefully and heat stud to red hot first.
Under no circumstances do you ever grind off a stud sticking out i don't give a damn what tool you have. Is this a good tool from the looks of it yes, but it's an old trick from god knows how many years back. But consumables are involved. Using that torch to heat those studs and using an ordinary stud remover those can be turned out with little effort and using up nothing but a little oxy/ahc. Use of a tool like this is last resort.
Woww
Amazing
Or just take the studs out....
👀💯💯💯❤️❤️❤️
Waste of time , weld on a big thick nut
Here's an idea. Don't waste your money attempting to fix junk
Sure the damn music is loud enough? Good video, stupid music!!!
Ditch the obnoxious music.
🤓🤓🤓