Because I refer back to these videos for reference, I've created an index for this one: 0:42 - 4:46 Removal of the chains, whistles, hands, cuckoo bird, and movement. 4:46 - 5:46 Identifying the cuckoo movement and case. 5:46 - 8:50 Evaluating the state of the movement: it's very dirty and has a bent warning pin. 8:50 - 13:04 Disassembling the movement (See ruclips.net/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/видео.html for how to remove the Regula "crab" clips). 13:05 - 13:46 Detailed view of how dirty the movement is. 13:46 - 14:53 Picking off the clumps of animal hair. 14:53 - 15:08 Viewing the bent warning pin; re-bending the bent pin. 15:08 - 15:30 Final disassembly and wiping before cleaning. Cleaning itself is not shown in this video. 15:30 - 15:56 Viewing the cleaned and assembled movement - it's beautiful! 15:56 - 16:58 Winding the chains onto the movement (before putting the movement into the case). 16:58 - 18:03 Threading the chains through the case. 18:03 - 18:41 Screwing the movement into the case. 18:41 - 20:22 Screwing the whistles into the case. 20:22 - 21:10 Testing the whistles. 21:10 - 21:19 Viewing the running clock.
Tyvm for the repair guide. I just acquired a second hand clock and with your sound guidance it is totally fixed and hanging on the wall with pride, working like a new clock 😆😉
hey bud, thanks for this! hey how do you silence a cuckoo clock chime and cuckoo at night? is it better to just take the weight of the cuckoo weight or use the little lever over the cuckoo door? it doesnt have a night switch on the sides or the bottom, Im worried using the little lever over the door may damage the clock? cheers mate
Thank you for your video, I'm looking for advice on an old USSR cukoo clock I have been restoring oil have striped and cleaned it checked it over and reassembled, the clock is working well but I can't get it to stop striking everything sector be in good order no springs missing, any idea would be appreciated
First, I've never looked at a cuckoo clock from the USSR, so I haven't a clue as to how they work. From the rest of your comment, I can only sense that it won't stop striking. Without knowing how it is constructed, I don't know what to tell you to look for. If it works the same as a German Regula movement, you'll have to look at the rack, warning pin and gathering pallet to see if something is bent, broken, missing or out of adjustment. The rest of your comment makes no sense to me.
This was by far the best and most detailed cuckoo clock repair video I have seen on RUclips. I have a question though. Is there something that I can adjust to reduce the speed of the cuckoo sound? Or am I stuck with that speed? My clock is like 3 months old and original. All weights are equal and it's a 1day movement model.
There are 3 things that control the speed of the cuckoo: 1 The force it takes to lift the bellows, so one can add a small amount of weight to the top of each bellow (e.g. glue a penny to the tops). 2. The force applied. Reduce the weight of the pine cone weight on the strike side. Either purchase a lighter weight from a clock supply house like timsavers.com or drill out a portion of the weight to reduce its mass. 3. the last gear of the strike train of gears has a governor fan on it that controls the speed. Increase the angular momentum of the governor fan by gluing weights to the ends of the fan.
Great video... what a hairy clock! Is there a good repair guide online that you can suggest? I just bought my first cuckoo clock, a vintage Hubert Herr, with music and dancers. I want to make sure to learn as much as possible about cuckoo clocks so I can take proper care of mine. Thank you for any information. Best wishes~
You can do a search for "cuckoo clock repair guide" and you'll get lots of results, but few, if any, will give you good advice or instruction. There are books you can buy. I don't know how good they are. There are those who will be glad to sell you videos. I don't know how good they are. There is also a LOT of pure trash advice, especially on RUclips. If you follow some of the advice for cleaning and oiling, you will end up causing more damage than good. Many qualified repair people will not repair them. They will advise replacing the movement. Those that will fix them are likely to charge more for their work than the clock is worth. To properly clean, oil or repair ANY mechanical clock, the movement MUST be completely dismantled. Anyone who advises otherwise, is a charlatan. Since you chose a "vintage" clock, it likely has not been properly serviced since it was made and will likely have significant wear. Also, for a DIY repair on a cuckoo clock, you have chosen the worst possible clock on which to learn. The complications of music movements, which notoriously wear out, and dancers, make repairs sometimes difficult even for experienced repair persons. The levers that trip and control these items are touchy and tricky to diagnose, repair or adjust. Repairing them can be frustrating, even maddening. I don't mean to be discouraging -- just honest. This year marks 50 years I've been repairing clocks as a hobby. I can only tell you that it takes time and experience to learn to repair them.
Thankyou so much.this is just great!i followed your dismantle steps.and cleaned up clock really good.i have a cuckoo with a different movement. Its problem is that it cuckoos like 7 times at the half hour.any suggestions on a fix would be very much appreciated
What does it do on the hour? The reason I ask is if it only cuckoos once on the hour, you likely have the minute hand on 180 degrees off. There are two cams on the center shaft that also hold the minute hand. The cams are next to the front plate and one is shorter than the other. The shorter one lifts the lever that controls the rack just enough to trip the cuckoo and it calls once. The longer cam lifts the lever far enough for the rack to fall the number of teeth allowed by the snail that is also on the center shaft. The deeper the lever on the snail falls, the more teeth are dropped on the rack and the more time the clock cuckoos. If the clock is consistently calling an odd number of times with no pattern, then the levers of the strike mechanism are out of adjustment or the is a pin on the warning wheel that may be bent or one or more of the levers is bent, resulting in snagging or dragging or not releasing properly. Without looking at the clock, that's about all I can suggest. This is a rack and snail mechanism www.pinterest.com/pin/383509724497818818/ When you say you have a different movement, are you saying it is not rack and snai? If so, it has a count-wheel system. Those require a different adjustment, including the lever that drops into the slots on the count wheel. Here is a video that may be helpful, but, again, without seeing the movement, I'm limited in helping. ruclips.net/video/EhJ_ZPkivEg/видео.html
Hey there dperry, happy new year to you,hope you has a good night,thank you for getting back to me,sorry by different movement i meant that instead of like the movement you have the wheel that moves the bellows arms up and down is on the inside instead of the outside,sorry I'm a novice just trying to learn,is there a system to put these movements back together?like could i possibly have put it back together out of synk or something?
Yes, there are a number of ways of putting the movements back together wrong. Since movement vary, it's hard to tell you what your particular movement may have wrong and how to correct it. The best thing to do is, before you take the movement apart, study it carefully and manually activate the strike until you completely understand how it functions. Then, take lots of digital photos as you dismantle the movement, taking particular care to show the relative positions of the wheels and parts. That makes it easier to put things back the way they need to go. In a cuckoo movement, it is important to know the position of the pin on the warning wheel and the position of the gathering pallet next to the rack, so that all will be returned to the necessary positions. What kind of movement is it? Look on the back plate for a name. If you can identify the maker and model, such as "Regula 25" or "Herr", you might be able to search for pictures and diagrams that will also help. Another thing that can happen is if the lift wheel that you mention is not in correct position, it might cause the movement to stall if the levers are resting on the lift pins at the start of the strike. In your case, that's easy to remedy as the wheel is external and held on the shaft with a screw, making it easy to adjust that wheel. If it's inside, one needs to be careful to place it correctly when assembling.
Thanks again for getting in touch with me. :-) today i have striped back down to parts.and ran through an ultrasonic cleaner and thn i soaked in fuelite.thats a metal cleaner/lighter fule sold here in new Zealand. And then scrubed with a soft brush.then i left to dry in the sun/not directly!...i think i made it worse.i think i might have solved the last problem but now it does not stop cuckooing.and with every cuckoo the door opens then closes.is there any way i could get your email and just email you a video recording of what im talking about.you honestly seem to be the most knowledgeable person on youtube about cuckoo clock movements.
I saw you took the plate off with the strike main wheel on. I’ve run into the main wheels with the star wheel that does. It have the set screw. What is the trick to remove these star wheels as they can bend easily...secondly what screwdriver do you use to get the movement screws deep in the case? Currently my trick is putting a tiny bit of glue stick in the tip so the screw stays attached to the screwdriver point and not fall off. The glue does not at all stay on the screw head, just allows me to get it started. Need a proper tool.
Removing a star-wheel that is pressed on without a set screw depends on how tight it is. Try using two flat-bladed screwdrivers with the tips facing each other on either side of the star close to its center. If it is still so tight as to risk bending it, separate the plates, grip the brass hub of the star with a pliers or small vise grip, hold on the to wheel on the other side of the plate and twist and pull like hell until it come off. I've also found the split ramp on the end of a crow's foot tool useful. For holding slotted screws to put them into deep cases, use a split-blade, screw-holding screwdriver. The split blade is put into the slot, a ring on the shaft is pushed down and the split blade spreads to wedge it in the slot. I've had mine for years, but here's one on Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GCVO?tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 Doesn't work for phillips-head screws. The sticky stuff on the tip of the screwdriver works for them.
I noticed you attached the little wire for the night shut off back to the movement after you took the movement out of the clock. How does a night shutoff in a cuckoo clock work? Does it lift up the rack or something high enough to prevent the entire strike side from operating?
If you look at the movement with the front facing you, there is a lever with its arbor to the leftmost part of the movement. That lever has the tab that is lifted by the center shaft tabs to start the cuckoo sequence. On clocks without a silencer, the arbor is solid. In those with a silent function, the arbor is spring loaded with the coil spring between the plates. On the back of the movement the shutoff wire is attached to a stepped lever that is over the end of the aforementioned arbor. Lifting the shutoff wire causes the stepped lever to push on the spring-loaded arbor, which pushes the arbor forward and disengages the tab from the center shaft. No lifty, no cuckoo!
I did with the railroad cuckoo clock and also with the cuckoo/quail seen here: ruclips.net/video/jOEBtlppwDI/видео.html Those were both count-wheel type strikes. I did some explanation of the rack-and-snail mechanism on the video of the Hubert Herr clock ruclips.net/video/v4yreDqcf3E/видео.html I currently have a 1-day Regula movement (Regula 25) that I'll be taking apart soon. When I do that video, I'll try to take more time to explain the rack-and-snail and what to look for when reassembling.
Great tutorial for rack and snail movement can u do one for the other type cos that’s the one I have a problem with. Focus a little problem but that’s usual thank you.
We have a cuckoo clock, original, about 2 years old. The problem we have is the cuckoo tends to go, well, cuckoo, at the hour-marks and instead of 12 whistles at 12, for example, it will keep going for 20-30 times. This happens at all hours. And occasionally it while whistle once or twice when it should go 6 times. Basically, the number of whistles is random, though it is whistling at every half hour. Do you know what might be wrong? I am hoping we wont have to replace the whole clockwork inside.
If, as you say, the clock is two years old, the number of times the clock strikes is controlled by what is called a rack-and-snail mechanism that, for the most part is on the front (dial) side of the movement. The snail is so-called because it resembles a spiral snail shell. It is on the center arbor, the part to which the hour hand attaches. It controls how far the rack, a toothed arc lever, falls each hour and that determines how many times the clock strikes. The rack is lifted by one tooth each time the clock strikes by a pin on a cam called the gathering pallet. Insides the movement, between the plates is a gear-wheel called the warning wheel that contains a stop-pin that stops the strike when a lever, controlled by the rack, contacts the stop-pin. If that pin is bent, as was the case in the clock in this video, the clock will not stop striking or will be intermittent as the pin sometimes catches and sometimes doesn't. Also, if the movement has been taken apart and the warning wheel not put back into its proper position, the timing of the rack-and-snail part will be out of sync with the warning pin and the clock won't stop. Sometimes, it's the rack-and-snail that's at fault. If any of the parts of that part of the mechanism is bent, dirty or otherwise out of adjustment or improperly reassembled after being taken apart, the same strike malfunction can occur. In your clock, since the half-hour is working correctly, it is likely that the warning pin is not bent or out of position. The problem is more likely to be in the rack-and-snail part on the front side of the movement. Something is likely not allowing the gathering pallet to lift the rack with each strike. One can sometimes get to, examine and fix the rack-and-snail by removing the dial, watching its function during striking and adjusting it to make it work properly. The dial is usually attached to the front of the case with very small brass brads and can be removed by carefully prying it off after removing the hands. Here is a link to a description of the rack-and-snail. mb.nawcc.org/showwiki.php?title=Rack_Strike_Elements If there is not enough room to work through the hole under the dial, the movement will have to be taken out of the case, a more complex fix. If you're not comfortable trying to repair it yourself, it will need the services of a clock repair person. The movement does NOT need replaced, but repaired and/or cleaned. That's about the best I can do to help you without examining the clock myself.
No, modern cuckoo clock such as this one are made with a mechanism that allows the minute hand to be moved backward. Likely, the pin was bent by too rigorous pulling up of the weight on the strike side or someone, like a child, pulling downward on the weight. The strike is stopped by a lever in the way of the pin and when the weight is pulled on, puts enough pressure on the pin to bend it. It's amazing what I've found inside clocks, including spider nests and even a dead mouse.
Very well done, quit a difficult job! Recently I found the old 1960 cuckoo clock from my grandmother, as she died in 1981 her daughter, my aunt took it with her, but never used it. She died as well two weeks ago, and as we were in the process of clearing her house I found it, and took it with me. After a bit of superficial cleaning and oiling it just runs fine, but it only chimes 1 time at the full hour. I cannot discover whether this is purposely or a failure,. Where do you suggest me to look at? By the look it is the same model and mechanism as in your video clip.
I would begin by examining the rack-and-snail strike control mechanism on the front of the movement. It is under the dial. The number of strikes is controlled by a toothed arc-shaped lever that has a tail that falls on a snail-shaped piece at each hour. The snail is a stepped piece on the hour pipe (the part that holds the hour hand), which turns with the hours. So, the tail of the rack falls deeper onto the snail as each hour passes, allowing the rack to fall the number of teeth that corresponds to the hour. A cam with a wire lift, called the gathering pallet, lifts the rack one tooth each time the clock strikes until the rack is liffed back to a locked position and the strike stops. The rack is likely not falling at the time it is supposed to, which is some time just before the hour. You can access the rack and snail by completely removing the movement or by removing the hands and the dial from the front of the case and looking at it through the hole in the front of the case. The dial is held on with two or three small brads. You can see what it will look like in this message board thread: mb.nawcc.org/threads/cuckoo-clock-rack-and-snail.105809/ That's about all I can suggest at this point.
Thank you! You were right, after removing the dial I noticed that the toothed arc-shaped lever was kept in the most upright position of one o'clock, after some drops of oil on the hinge moved free again and now it strikes the right amount of hours again. Because of your video I have learnt a lot about this mechnism and without this it would take considerably more time and effort to solve the problem!
I'm glad I could help. Likely the shaft the rack is on had some rust on it from being stored so long. The oil broke the rust seizure. I need to warn you, though, that the pins on which levers move should not be oiled as the oil will eventually absorb dust and dirt and the same problem you experienced will reoccur. It may take a few years, but it will happen. During that time, learn more about your clock so that sometime in the future, you can take it apart, properly clean and oil it, and return it to many years of service. Glad your clock is working again. Enjoy it.
dperry428 Thanks for that tip. I will now remove the oil I just put on the rack pivot before I forget! My current problem is that the clock stops running with in about 5 seconds. I'm a real novice, by the way. The first problem was that one of the weights couldn't be "wound". Sister said she couldn't pull the chain-- I don't know which one. But I think it's free now. She dropped the clock onto the floor while cleaning it (dusting)?
Dropping a clock doesn't do it much good. Lots of things can be bent or broken. If the clock only runs a few seconds, have you assured that it is "in beat"; that is, does the ticking sound equal on each side of the pendulum swing? It should sound even as in tick, tock, tick tock, tick tock and not ticktock -- ticktock -- ticktock. Level the clock on the wall, listen and then bend the wire inside that moves the pendulum one way or the other until the ticking sounds even. The it is in beat. If it still stops, there is damage or it needs cleaned and oiled.
hi sir thank you for this fine video i really apprised it ..can you please send me a link inform me where can i find spear parts for a German coco clock withe melody and dancing couples ..i need the 2 coco whistle ..2 chains 4 bruises and some more ..thank you ..regards panos
@@dperry428 thank you sir for helping me ..i am new on that ....can i send you some foto of the clock to let me now what kind is ..say German all wright at the back ..regards panos
That clock is commonly called a 400-day clock or anniversary clock and technically called a torsion pendulum clock. They generally run for about a year on a single wind and run with a rotational oscillating pendulum suspended by a thin wire called a torsion spring.
I have a cuckoo with a Regula 34 movement and the bird won't shutup when I place the weight on it. It seems a lot cleaner than this one. It was stored for a few years and the pendulum had fallen from the silver hook (I didn't notice it before I tried the first time) but it seemed to work just fine if a bit slow. Then I placed the pendulum in its place and tried again and the bird won't shut up unless I remove the weight. Do you think a good cleaning and oiling might solve the problem or there might be something else wrong? Thank you for any help you might provide. 👍
It could just need cleaned. The mechanism on the front of the movement, called the rack and snail, controls how many times the cuckoo calls. If it is dirty or has been oiled in the past, it could fail and cause the problem. So could a missing or bent pin on the gathering pallet cause the problem. Otherwise, the problem could be on the warning pin on the next to last wheel of the strike side could be bent or missing and cause that problem.
@@dperry428 Thank you, I would take a look at it and clean it properly. It worked just fine the first time I tried it, I hope it's just dirty & /or dry. Thank you for your help, I will let you know how it went once I have it all cleaned and lubed. 👍
Like not. Your use of the phrase "mate" means your likely in Australia or New Zealand, which is a little far for me to repair the clock. A Vienna movement is a particularly delicate movement with very fine pivots and stop pins. If it got knocked over and know won't stop chiming, it is like either that the warning pin on the warning wheel is either badly bent or broken or that the rack-and-snail strike regulator mechanism is damaged. You'll need someone who is knowledgeable about clock repair to have a go at it, as you are far, far away. Best I can do is give you this link: www.nawcc-index.net/RepairShopsOther.php
Thanks for the reply i'm english , its not got a rack & snail so i'm probably wrong in calling it a vienna movement , could you tell me were this warning wheel is likely to be located please
On the strike train, the warning wheel is almost always the next-to-last wheel. The fan, or governor, is driven by it. The warning pin would be on the side of the rim of the wheel. If your clock doesn't have a rack-and-snail mechanism, do you see a count wheel (a wheel with deeper slots on it spaced progressively further apart? If so, also check to see that the lever that falls into those deeper slots is not bent out of position. If it cannot fall into the deeper slots, the clock will never stop striking.
Many thanks for your help , the pin on the warning wheel is fine but i've noticed another pin on a larger wheel contected below which looks broken should this interact with the star close to it
When you say, "star", I take you mean a star wheel? The star wheel is simply the piece that lifts the tail of a hammer to make it strike, but has nothing to do with the clock not stopping its strike. Likely, then, if the warning pin is not broken or bent, one or more levers is bent or out of adjustment. Without actually seeing the clock, I really can't be of much help. There are just too many variations in mechanism design and layout to tell you what to look for without actually seeing the clock.
If you're handy at removing the movement and replacing it, you might find it much cheaper to buy a replacement movement. That's likely what a repair shop will do anyway. Unless it's a very old clock, it will cost far more to get it properly cleaned than to replace the movement.
ياسﻻم جميل جدا ساعات الكوكو اﻻلمانية انامن عشاقها ﻹنها اصيلة وعريقة ودائما الصناعة اﻻلمانية جودتها عالية جدا على مستواى العالم والذي يعجبني في هذه الساعات صناعها حافظوا على اصالتيها بالطرق التقليدية إنها كا الذهب والذهب يبقى ذهب ﻻيتغير وانا احب صيانتها وجميل جداهذا البرنامج وانا اشاهد واتعلم صيانتها وشكرا لقناتكم 😙👍
Your question is somewhat unclear, but I assume you are saying that the cuckoo doesn't work on the half-hour. There are two mechanisms that control the cuckoo. One, used in relatively old cuckoo clocks, uses a count wheel with notches in it that control the hour and half-hour cuckoo. The relatively newer system uses a rack-and-snail mechanism that controls the cuckoo by releasing teeth on a curved arc equal to the number of "cuckoos" needed. You likely have this mechanism and the problem is usually caused by either slight wear on a lifting cam or by one of the parts of the mechanism being slightly out of adjustment. The rack-and-snail are on the front of the movement, under the dial. Unless you know how to take the clock apart, you will need to have someone who does, take a look at it. If you tell me where you are located, I can give you the names of repair shops or persons in your area who are members of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC), or, you can do a Google search for clock repair shops in your area.
The wire that hangs in the last hole is a shut-off for the cuckoo. Some people don't like the clock making noise in the middle of the night, so they like having a way to shut off the cuckoo sound at night.
my problem is the cuckoo happens after the door shuts,,it stikes fine and opens and closes on every strike,but the cuckoo sound is after the bird goes bk in and the door shuts,,can you help me remedy this,,thanks,Brian,r
The clue to your problem lies in the door opening and closing with each cuckoo. The door should open, the number of appropriate cuckoos sound and then the door should shut. There are a number of mechanisms that keep the door open. One is a weighted disc on a shaft that has one end free to move in an "L"-shaped slot. If it is operating correctly, when the cuckoo is moved outward, the weighted shaft moves in the slot and holds the door open until the cuckoo has sounded the proper number of time. After the strike has completed the weighted shaft is bumped back to the resting position and the door can now shut. If that weighted shaft pops out of position each time the cuckoo sounds, the door will close each time. Very old clocks had different methods to do the same thing. Without actually examining the clock, that's about all the help I can provide.
Beautiful job but can those extensive repairs to that pityful, dirty cuckoo clock be financially justified? Seems the bill would be at least $100 for that much time. Am I wrong?
Were I fixing these clocks as a business, you would be absolutely right, but this is what I do for entertainment when the weather is too bad to work outside. Even for a professional clock repair shop, if a clock such as this has replacement movements available, the recommendation would be to simply replace the movement with a new one and the old one would be discarded or sold on eBay "parts only". For most old clocks, unless they are valuable antiques, the cost of repair almost always exceeds their resale value. Many of those clocks have sentimental value, though, as they belonged to loved ones or people remember growing up with them as children. In those cases, sometimes the cost of professional repair is justified by the owner. Otherwise, the non-functioning clock languishes in a closet or basement storage for years until the next generation comes along and tosses it in the trash. Most of the people for whom I fix clocks cannot afford the cost of professional repair and their clocks have spent years collecting dirt, grime and corrosion as they sat on walls and shelves as mere decorative items. When they hear I can fix clocks, they wonder if the old thing could be brought back to life and what it would cost. I do not charge for my labor. I charge them what the parts, if any, cost me and then ask they make a donation to our local ministerial association and food pantry for an amount they feel the repair was worth to them. For a price they can afford, they get their treasure working, I get to enjoy saving it from the landfill and bringing it back to life and the needy in my community get supported. Professional repair shops may feel this takes from their livelihood, but the clocks I repair would likely never see an expensive professional anyway. So, yes, were these repairs based solely on financial justification, the clock would remain non-functional or be relegated to a landfill, but the value of a clock is often more than just intrinsic.
dperry428 That is what I call a happy arrangement. You are indeed a very nice man to do that. It works out good from every angle. Thanks for your service and reply. Guy
When I was finished with my military service in 1966, my wife and I moved back near her family. My father-in-law was a machinist who repaired clock movements for a collector who lived down the street. That neighbor had hundreds of clocks of almost every variety, including many that had badly worn dials and deteriorated reverse painted glass elements. My father-in-law knew I enjoyed art projects and asked if I could repaint and number some of the bad dials and also redo the deteriorated reverse paintings. He took me to the neighbor's house to meet the man and I was instantly enthralled by his old clock collection that filled the building that was once his welding shop. After doing several art repairs on some of his clocks, he asked what he owed me. I asked for a "junker" clock that I could fix up for my wife and me. That was the start. My father-in-law taught me some basics of repair and also how to use a lathe and milling machine. After a couple years of learning, my father-in-law passed away in 1968 and I was on my own. I've been repairing and adding to my knowledge and skills from that time forward. I'm still learning at 80 years of age.
ruclips.net/video/XV400YSLYfQ/видео.html pronounce.name/how-to-pronounce-regula ruclips.net/video/0vnWw-1T4_Y/видео.html Kind of depends on where you're from.
Because I refer back to these videos for reference, I've created an index for this one:
0:42 - 4:46 Removal of the chains, whistles, hands, cuckoo bird, and movement.
4:46 - 5:46 Identifying the cuckoo movement and case.
5:46 - 8:50 Evaluating the state of the movement: it's very dirty and has a bent warning pin.
8:50 - 13:04 Disassembling the movement (See ruclips.net/video/GfUAY6v1Im0/видео.html for how to remove the Regula "crab" clips).
13:05 - 13:46 Detailed view of how dirty the movement is.
13:46 - 14:53 Picking off the clumps of animal hair.
14:53 - 15:08 Viewing the bent warning pin; re-bending the bent pin.
15:08 - 15:30 Final disassembly and wiping before cleaning. Cleaning itself is not shown in this video.
15:30 - 15:56 Viewing the cleaned and assembled movement - it's beautiful!
15:56 - 16:58 Winding the chains onto the movement (before putting the movement into the case).
16:58 - 18:03 Threading the chains through the case.
18:03 - 18:41 Screwing the movement into the case.
18:41 - 20:22 Screwing the whistles into the case.
20:22 - 21:10 Testing the whistles.
21:10 - 21:19 Viewing the running clock.
Thanks, we'll keep it pinned to the beginning of comment section.
Bradford Needham thanks
Thank you so much for these videos! And I love your running comments. You have given me the confidence to work on my newest clock.
Thanks for the comment.
Tyvm for the repair guide. I just acquired a second hand clock and with your sound guidance it is totally fixed and hanging on the wall with pride, working like a new clock 😆😉
Good for you. It can be hard to find someone to fix cuckoo clocks at a reasonable rate.
Hello, Happy to see you back . I have missed your videos. Glad to see your well.
Hello and thank you.
hey bud, thanks for this! hey how do you silence a cuckoo clock chime and cuckoo at night? is it better to just take the weight of the cuckoo weight or use the little lever over the cuckoo door? it doesnt have a night switch on the sides or the bottom, Im worried using the little lever over the door may damage the clock? cheers mate
Locking the cuckoo door won't hurt anything, but it may not stop the cuckoo. Try it. Otherwise, just take off the weight.
@@dperry428 awesome, thanks mate!
Thank you for your video, I'm looking for advice on an old USSR cukoo clock I have been restoring oil have striped and cleaned it checked it over and reassembled, the clock is working well but I can't get it to stop striking everything sector be in good order no springs missing, any idea would be appreciated
First, I've never looked at a cuckoo clock from the USSR, so I haven't a clue as to how they work. From the rest of your comment, I can only sense that it won't stop striking. Without knowing how it is constructed, I don't know what to tell you to look for. If it works the same as a German Regula movement, you'll have to look at the rack, warning pin and gathering pallet to see if something is bent, broken, missing or out of adjustment. The rest of your comment makes no sense to me.
Always nice to have Anniversary Clocks running in the background.
Two that I had just fixed for a friend.
Ah, okay.
This was by far the best and most detailed cuckoo clock repair video I have seen on RUclips.
I have a question though. Is there something that I can adjust to reduce the speed of the cuckoo sound? Or am I stuck with that speed? My clock is like 3 months old and original. All weights are equal and it's a 1day movement model.
There are 3 things that control the speed of the cuckoo: 1 The force it takes to lift the bellows, so one can add a small amount of weight to the top of each bellow (e.g. glue a penny to the tops). 2. The force applied. Reduce the weight of the pine cone weight on the strike side. Either purchase a lighter weight from a clock supply house like timsavers.com or drill out a portion of the weight to reduce its mass. 3. the last gear of the strike train of gears has a governor fan on it that controls the speed. Increase the angular momentum of the governor fan by gluing weights to the ends of the fan.
Great video... what a hairy clock! Is there a good repair guide online that you can suggest? I just bought my first cuckoo clock, a vintage Hubert Herr, with music and dancers. I want to make sure to learn as much as possible about cuckoo clocks so I can take proper care of mine. Thank you for any information. Best wishes~
You can do a search for "cuckoo clock repair guide" and you'll get lots of results, but few, if any, will give you good advice or instruction. There are books you can buy. I don't know how good they are. There are those who will be glad to sell you videos. I don't know how good they are. There is also a LOT of pure trash advice, especially on RUclips. If you follow some of the advice for cleaning and oiling, you will end up causing more damage than good. Many qualified repair people will not repair them. They will advise replacing the movement. Those that will fix them are likely to charge more for their work than the clock is worth. To properly clean, oil or repair ANY mechanical clock, the movement MUST be completely dismantled. Anyone who advises otherwise, is a charlatan. Since you chose a "vintage" clock, it likely has not been properly serviced since it was made and will likely have significant wear. Also, for a DIY repair on a cuckoo clock, you have chosen the worst possible clock on which to learn. The complications of music movements, which notoriously wear out, and dancers, make repairs sometimes difficult even for experienced repair persons. The levers that trip and control these items are touchy and tricky to diagnose, repair or adjust. Repairing them can be frustrating, even maddening. I don't mean to be discouraging -- just honest. This year marks 50 years I've been repairing clocks as a hobby. I can only tell you that it takes time and experience to learn to repair them.
Thankyou so much.this is just great!i followed your dismantle steps.and cleaned up clock really good.i have a cuckoo with a different movement. Its problem is that it cuckoos like 7 times at the half hour.any suggestions on a fix would be very much appreciated
What does it do on the hour? The reason I ask is if it only cuckoos once on the hour, you likely have the minute hand on 180 degrees off. There are two cams on the center shaft that also hold the minute hand. The cams are next to the front plate and one is shorter than the other. The shorter one lifts the lever that controls the rack just enough to trip the cuckoo and it calls once. The longer cam lifts the lever far enough for the rack to fall the number of teeth allowed by the snail that is also on the center shaft. The deeper the lever on the snail falls, the more teeth are dropped on the rack and the more time the clock cuckoos. If the clock is consistently calling an odd number of times with no pattern, then the levers of the strike mechanism are out of adjustment or the is a pin on the warning wheel that may be bent or one or more of the levers is bent, resulting in snagging or dragging or not releasing properly. Without looking at the clock, that's about all I can suggest. This is a rack and snail mechanism www.pinterest.com/pin/383509724497818818/ When you say you have a different movement, are you saying it is not rack and snai? If so, it has a count-wheel system. Those require a different adjustment, including the lever that drops into the slots on the count wheel. Here is a video that may be helpful, but, again, without seeing the movement, I'm limited in helping. ruclips.net/video/EhJ_ZPkivEg/видео.html
Hey there dperry, happy new year to you,hope you has a good night,thank you for getting back to me,sorry by different movement i meant that instead of like the movement you have the wheel that moves the bellows arms up and down is on the inside instead of the outside,sorry I'm a novice just trying to learn,is there a system to put these movements back together?like could i possibly have put it back together out of synk or something?
Yes, there are a number of ways of putting the movements back together wrong. Since movement vary, it's hard to tell you what your particular movement may have wrong and how to correct it. The best thing to do is, before you take the movement apart, study it carefully and manually activate the strike until you completely understand how it functions. Then, take lots of digital photos as you dismantle the movement, taking particular care to show the relative positions of the wheels and parts. That makes it easier to put things back the way they need to go. In a cuckoo movement, it is important to know the position of the pin on the warning wheel and the position of the gathering pallet next to the rack, so that all will be returned to the necessary positions. What kind of movement is it? Look on the back plate for a name. If you can identify the maker and model, such as "Regula 25" or "Herr", you might be able to search for pictures and diagrams that will also help. Another thing that can happen is if the lift wheel that you mention is not in correct position, it might cause the movement to stall if the levers are resting on the lift pins at the start of the strike. In your case, that's easy to remedy as the wheel is external and held on the shaft with a screw, making it easy to adjust that wheel. If it's inside, one needs to be careful to place it correctly when assembling.
Thanks again for getting in touch with me. :-) today i have striped back down to parts.and ran through an ultrasonic cleaner and thn i soaked in fuelite.thats a metal cleaner/lighter fule sold here in new Zealand. And then scrubed with a soft brush.then i left to dry in the sun/not directly!...i think i made it worse.i think i might have solved the last problem but now it does not stop cuckooing.and with every cuckoo the door opens then closes.is there any way i could get your email and just email you a video recording of what im talking about.you honestly seem to be the most knowledgeable person on youtube about cuckoo clock movements.
Mr. Perry, please tell me what size split screwdriver do you use to get the 4 mounting screws from the movement. Thank you
I think it's a 1/4 inch tip . Overall length is about 6". It's really more handy to put them back in. You can use any screwdriver to take them out.
I saw you took the plate off with the strike main wheel on. I’ve run into the main wheels with the star wheel that does. It have the set screw. What is the trick to remove these star wheels as they can bend easily...secondly what screwdriver do you use to get the movement screws deep in the case? Currently my trick is putting a tiny bit of glue stick in the tip so the screw stays attached to the screwdriver point and not fall off. The glue does not at all stay on the screw head, just allows me to get it started. Need a proper tool.
Removing a star-wheel that is pressed on without a set screw depends on how tight it is. Try using two flat-bladed screwdrivers with the tips facing each other on either side of the star close to its center. If it is still so tight as to risk bending it, separate the plates, grip the brass hub of the star with a pliers or small vise grip, hold on the to wheel on the other side of the plate and twist and pull like hell until it come off. I've also found the split ramp on the end of a crow's foot tool useful. For holding slotted screws to put them into deep cases, use a split-blade, screw-holding screwdriver. The split blade is put into the slot, a ring on the shaft is pushed down and the split blade spreads to wedge it in the slot. I've had mine for years, but here's one on Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GCVO?tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 Doesn't work for phillips-head screws. The sticky stuff on the tip of the screwdriver works for them.
dperry428 thanks buddy
I noticed you attached the little wire for the night shut off back to the movement after you took the movement out of the clock. How does a night shutoff in a cuckoo clock work? Does it lift up the rack or something high enough to prevent the entire strike side from operating?
If you look at the movement with the front facing you, there is a lever with its arbor to the leftmost part of the movement. That lever has the tab that is lifted by the center shaft tabs to start the cuckoo sequence. On clocks without a silencer, the arbor is solid. In those with a silent function, the arbor is spring loaded with the coil spring between the plates. On the back of the movement the shutoff wire is attached to a stepped lever that is over the end of the aforementioned arbor. Lifting the shutoff wire causes the stepped lever to push on the spring-loaded arbor, which pushes the arbor forward and disengages the tab from the center shaft. No lifty, no cuckoo!
Good Cuckoo clock videos to be sure. Have you made any that shows in detail the striking set up as you reassemble the movement. Thanks in advance.
I did with the railroad cuckoo clock and also with the cuckoo/quail seen here: ruclips.net/video/jOEBtlppwDI/видео.html Those were both count-wheel type strikes. I did some explanation of the rack-and-snail mechanism on the video of the Hubert Herr clock ruclips.net/video/v4yreDqcf3E/видео.html I currently have a 1-day Regula movement (Regula 25) that I'll be taking apart soon. When I do that video, I'll try to take more time to explain the rack-and-snail and what to look for when reassembling.
Great tutorial for rack and snail movement can u do one for the other type cos that’s the one I have a problem with. Focus a little problem but that’s usual thank you.
You mean how a countwheel works?
We have a cuckoo clock, original, about 2 years old. The problem we have is the cuckoo tends to go, well, cuckoo, at the hour-marks and instead of 12 whistles at 12, for example, it will keep going for 20-30 times. This happens at all hours. And occasionally it while whistle once or twice when it should go 6 times. Basically, the number of whistles is random, though it is whistling at every half hour. Do you know what might be wrong? I am hoping we wont have to replace the whole clockwork inside.
If, as you say, the clock is two years old, the number of times the clock strikes is controlled by what is called a rack-and-snail mechanism that, for the most part is on the front (dial) side of the movement. The snail is so-called because it resembles a spiral snail shell. It is on the center arbor, the part to which the hour hand attaches. It controls how far the rack, a toothed arc lever, falls each hour and that determines how many times the clock strikes. The rack is lifted by one tooth each time the clock strikes by a pin on a cam called the gathering pallet. Insides the movement, between the plates is a gear-wheel called the warning wheel that contains a stop-pin that stops the strike when a lever, controlled by the rack, contacts the stop-pin. If that pin is bent, as was the case in the clock in this video, the clock will not stop striking or will be intermittent as the pin sometimes catches and sometimes doesn't. Also, if the movement has been taken apart and the warning wheel not put back into its proper position, the timing of the rack-and-snail part will be out of sync with the warning pin and the clock won't stop. Sometimes, it's the rack-and-snail that's at fault. If any of the parts of that part of the mechanism is bent, dirty or otherwise out of adjustment or improperly reassembled after being taken apart, the same strike malfunction can occur. In your clock, since the half-hour is working correctly, it is likely that the warning pin is not bent or out of position. The problem is more likely to be in the rack-and-snail part on the front side of the movement. Something is likely not allowing the gathering pallet to lift the rack with each strike. One can sometimes get to, examine and fix the rack-and-snail by removing the dial, watching its function during striking and adjusting it to make it work properly. The dial is usually attached to the front of the case with very small brass brads and can be removed by carefully prying it off after removing the hands. Here is a link to a description of the rack-and-snail. mb.nawcc.org/showwiki.php?title=Rack_Strike_Elements If there is not enough room to work through the hole under the dial, the movement will have to be taken out of the case, a more complex fix. If you're not comfortable trying to repair it yourself, it will need the services of a clock repair person. The movement does NOT need replaced, but repaired and/or cleaned. That's about the best I can do to help you without examining the clock myself.
Thank you so much for your response. I'll see what I can do with it.
If you find you can't fix it, send me a message to tell me where you are located and I'll find a reputable repairman in your area.
I certainly will. Thank you for your help and guidance.
Another great video! The bent warning pin, was it caused by attempting to rotate minute hand backwards? Cat hair + chains + WD40 = mess.
No, modern cuckoo clock such as this one are made with a mechanism that allows the minute hand to be moved backward. Likely, the pin was bent by too rigorous pulling up of the weight on the strike side or someone, like a child, pulling downward on the weight. The strike is stopped by a lever in the way of the pin and when the weight is pulled on, puts enough pressure on the pin to bend it. It's amazing what I've found inside clocks, including spider nests and even a dead mouse.
Very well done, quit a difficult job! Recently I found the old 1960 cuckoo clock from my grandmother, as she died in 1981 her daughter, my aunt took it with her, but never used it. She died as well two weeks ago, and as we were in the process of clearing her house I found it, and took it with me. After a bit of superficial cleaning and oiling it just runs fine, but it only chimes 1 time at the full hour. I cannot discover whether this is purposely or a failure,. Where do you suggest me to look at? By the look it is the same model and mechanism as in your video clip.
I would begin by examining the rack-and-snail strike control mechanism on the front of the movement. It is under the dial. The number of strikes is controlled by a toothed arc-shaped lever that has a tail that falls on a snail-shaped piece at each hour. The snail is a stepped piece on the hour pipe (the part that holds the hour hand), which turns with the hours. So, the tail of the rack falls deeper onto the snail as each hour passes, allowing the rack to fall the number of teeth that corresponds to the hour. A cam with a wire lift, called the gathering pallet, lifts the rack one tooth each time the clock strikes until the rack is liffed back to a locked position and the strike stops. The rack is likely not falling at the time it is supposed to, which is some time just before the hour. You can access the rack and snail by completely removing the movement or by removing the hands and the dial from the front of the case and looking at it through the hole in the front of the case. The dial is held on with two or three small brads. You can see what it will look like in this message board thread: mb.nawcc.org/threads/cuckoo-clock-rack-and-snail.105809/ That's about all I can suggest at this point.
Thank you! You were right, after removing the dial I noticed that the toothed arc-shaped lever was kept in the most upright position of one o'clock, after some drops of oil on the hinge moved free again and now it strikes the right amount of hours again. Because of your video I have learnt a lot about this mechnism and without this it would take considerably more time and effort to solve the problem!
I'm glad I could help. Likely the shaft the rack is on had some rust on it from being stored so long. The oil broke the rust seizure. I need to warn you, though, that the pins on which levers move should not be oiled as the oil will eventually absorb dust and dirt and the same problem you experienced will reoccur. It may take a few years, but it will happen. During that time, learn more about your clock so that sometime in the future, you can take it apart, properly clean and oil it, and return it to many years of service. Glad your clock is working again. Enjoy it.
dperry428 Thanks for that tip. I will now remove the oil I just put on the rack pivot before I forget!
My current problem is that the clock stops running with in about 5 seconds. I'm a real novice, by the way.
The first problem was that one of the weights couldn't be "wound". Sister said she couldn't pull the chain-- I don't know which one. But I think it's free now. She dropped the clock onto the floor while cleaning it (dusting)?
Dropping a clock doesn't do it much good. Lots of things can be bent or broken. If the clock only runs a few seconds, have you assured that it is "in beat"; that is, does the ticking sound equal on each side of the pendulum swing? It should sound even as in tick, tock, tick tock, tick tock and not ticktock -- ticktock -- ticktock. Level the clock on the wall, listen and then bend the wire inside that moves the pendulum one way or the other until the ticking sounds even. The it is in beat. If it still stops, there is damage or it needs cleaned and oiled.
hi sir thank you for this fine video i really apprised it ..can you please send me a link inform me where can i find spear parts for a German coco clock withe melody and dancing couples ..i need the 2 coco whistle ..2 chains 4 bruises and some more ..thank you ..regards panos
timesavers.com/c-325596-clock-repair-replacement-parts-cuckoo-clock-parts.html
blackforestimports.com/
ronellclock.com/Cuckoo-Parts_c7.htm
milehiclocksupplies.com/
frankenmuthclock.com/pages/cuckoo-clock-questions-answers
perrinwatchparts.com/collections/clock-parts
www.clockworks.com/clock-parts/cuckoo-clock-parts.html
@@dperry428 thank you sir for helping me ..i am new on that ....can i send you some foto of the clock to let me now what kind is ..say German all wright at the back ..regards panos
I hold comments for review. just post an email and I"ll contact you.
My favorite is when the manufacturers Glue the bellows in….
Hello, where can I find cuckoo clock parts as Hand and gussets
timesavers.com/search.html?q=cuckoo&go=Search
frankenmuthclock.com/collections/parts-cuckoo-clock-quartz-cuckoo-miniature
blackforestimports.com/category/Parts-Accessories/Cuckoo-Parts-Accessories/
www.ronellclock.com/?s=cuckoo+clock&post_type=product
www.merritts.com/merritts/public/default.aspx
perrinwatchparts.com/search?type=product&q=cuckoo*+clock*+parts*
There’s like half a cat in that movement
I have a clock that won't cuckoo the one chain doesn't move can you show how to fix this please
Here's one that had that problem and what needed to be done:
ruclips.net/video/rhHLTUlkOMA/видео.html
I've a clock likes the one to the right,the it doesn't work. Do you know how they are called?
That clock is commonly called a 400-day clock or anniversary clock and technically called a torsion pendulum clock. They generally run for about a year on a single wind and run with a rotational oscillating pendulum suspended by a thin wire called a torsion spring.
@@dperry428 thank you :)
I have a cuckoo with a Regula 34 movement and the bird won't shutup when I place the weight on it.
It seems a lot cleaner than this one.
It was stored for a few years and the pendulum had fallen from the silver hook (I didn't notice it before I tried the first time) but it seemed to work just fine if a bit slow.
Then I placed the pendulum in its place and tried again and the bird won't shut up unless I remove the weight.
Do you think a good cleaning and oiling might solve the problem or there might be something else wrong?
Thank you for any help you might provide. 👍
It could just need cleaned. The mechanism on the front of the movement, called the rack and snail, controls how many times the cuckoo calls. If it is dirty or has been oiled in the past, it could fail and cause the problem. So could a missing or bent pin on the gathering pallet cause the problem. Otherwise, the problem could be on the warning pin on the next to last wheel of the strike side could be bent or missing and cause that problem.
@@dperry428 Thank you, I would take a look at it and clean it properly.
It worked just fine the first time I tried it, I hope it's just dirty & /or dry.
Thank you for your help, I will let you know how it went once I have it all cleaned and lubed. 👍
Hi mate can you please help me , my wall clock which is some kind of vienna movement after being knocked over now wont stop striking
Like not. Your use of the phrase "mate" means your likely in Australia or New Zealand, which is a little far for me to repair the clock. A Vienna movement is a particularly delicate movement with very fine pivots and stop pins. If it got knocked over and know won't stop chiming, it is like either that the warning pin on the warning wheel is either badly bent or broken or that the rack-and-snail strike regulator mechanism is damaged. You'll need someone who is knowledgeable about clock repair to have a go at it, as you are far, far away. Best I can do is give you this link: www.nawcc-index.net/RepairShopsOther.php
Thanks for the reply i'm english , its not got a rack & snail so i'm probably wrong in calling it a vienna movement , could you tell me were this warning wheel is likely to be located please
On the strike train, the warning wheel is almost always the next-to-last wheel. The fan, or governor, is driven by it. The warning pin would be on the side of the rim of the wheel. If your clock doesn't have a rack-and-snail mechanism, do you see a count wheel (a wheel with deeper slots on it spaced progressively further apart? If so, also check to see that the lever that falls into those deeper slots is not bent out of position. If it cannot fall into the deeper slots, the clock will never stop striking.
Many thanks for your help , the pin on the warning wheel is fine but i've noticed another pin on a larger wheel contected below which looks broken should this interact with the star close to it
When you say, "star", I take you mean a star wheel? The star wheel is simply the piece that lifts the tail of a hammer to make it strike, but has nothing to do with the clock not stopping its strike. Likely, then, if the warning pin is not broken or bent, one or more levers is bent or out of adjustment. Without actually seeing the clock, I really can't be of much help. There are just too many variations in mechanism design and layout to tell you what to look for without actually seeing the clock.
Thinking of getting one
Well I had a fire and my coo coo clock coo coo does not stop till it is wound down looks like I will take mine in to be cleaned
If you're handy at removing the movement and replacing it, you might find it much cheaper to buy a replacement movement. That's likely what a repair shop will do anyway. Unless it's a very old clock, it will cost far more to get it properly cleaned than to replace the movement.
I never see you do Grandfather movements
ruclips.net/video/E6wUwlVVvzM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/sjdCbOSoe-I/видео.html
ياسﻻم جميل جدا ساعات الكوكو اﻻلمانية انامن عشاقها ﻹنها اصيلة وعريقة ودائما الصناعة اﻻلمانية جودتها عالية جدا على مستواى العالم
والذي يعجبني في هذه الساعات صناعها حافظوا على اصالتيها بالطرق التقليدية إنها كا الذهب والذهب يبقى ذهب ﻻيتغير وانا احب صيانتها وجميل جداهذا البرنامج وانا اشاهد واتعلم صيانتها وشكرا لقناتكم 😙👍
أنا موافق
What's my cuckoo clock is broken, it's won't cuckoo when is half hours goming?
Your question is somewhat unclear, but I assume you are saying that the cuckoo doesn't work on the half-hour. There are two mechanisms that control the cuckoo. One, used in relatively old cuckoo clocks, uses a count wheel with notches in it that control the hour and half-hour cuckoo. The relatively newer system uses a rack-and-snail mechanism that controls the cuckoo by releasing teeth on a curved arc equal to the number of "cuckoos" needed. You likely have this mechanism and the problem is usually caused by either slight wear on a lifting cam or by one of the parts of the mechanism being slightly out of adjustment. The rack-and-snail are on the front of the movement, under the dial. Unless you know how to take the clock apart, you will need to have someone who does, take a look at it. If you tell me where you are located, I can give you the names of repair shops or persons in your area who are members of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC), or, you can do a Google search for clock repair shops in your area.
If I had one of those my room I would not be able to sleep
Maybe the first day. You get used to them.
There was the makings of a birdsnest inside that clock. You will fix it :-)
Thanks, T, finished it yesterday. Works like it should, now.
at the buttom I see 5 holes, 4 for the chains, what does the fifth hole do, I see a straight wire? Thank you for your answer
The wire that hangs in the last hole is a shut-off for the cuckoo. Some people don't like the clock making noise in the middle of the night, so they like having a way to shut off the cuckoo sound at night.
Maybe not WD 40. It looked more like the ubiquitous 3 in 1 oil
Probably could grow potatoes in that mess
Some of them get pretty messy.
my problem is the cuckoo happens after the door shuts,,it stikes fine and opens and closes on every strike,but the cuckoo sound is after the bird goes bk in and the door shuts,,can you help me remedy this,,thanks,Brian,r
The clue to your problem lies in the door opening and closing with each cuckoo. The door should open, the number of appropriate cuckoos sound and then the door should shut. There are a number of mechanisms that keep the door open. One is a weighted disc on a shaft that has one end free to move in an "L"-shaped slot. If it is operating correctly, when the cuckoo is moved outward, the weighted shaft moves in the slot and holds the door open until the cuckoo has sounded the proper number of time. After the strike has completed the weighted shaft is bumped back to the resting position and the door can now shut. If that weighted shaft pops out of position each time the cuckoo sounds, the door will close each time. Very old clocks had different methods to do the same thing. Without actually examining the clock, that's about all the help I can provide.
Mine had this problem . I fixed it
Clocks Fans & Vlogs how?
How
Beautiful job but can those extensive repairs to that pityful, dirty cuckoo clock be financially justified? Seems the bill would be at least $100 for that much time. Am I wrong?
Were I fixing these clocks as a business, you would be absolutely right, but this is what I do for entertainment when the weather is too bad to work outside. Even for a professional clock repair shop, if a clock such as this has replacement movements available, the recommendation would be to simply replace the movement with a new one and the old one would be discarded or sold on eBay "parts only". For most old clocks, unless they are valuable antiques, the cost of repair almost always exceeds their resale value. Many of those clocks have sentimental value, though, as they belonged to loved ones or people remember growing up with them as children. In those cases, sometimes the cost of professional repair is justified by the owner. Otherwise, the non-functioning clock languishes in a closet or basement storage for years until the next generation comes along and tosses it in the trash. Most of the people for whom I fix clocks cannot afford the cost of professional repair and their clocks have spent years collecting dirt, grime and corrosion as they sat on walls and shelves as mere decorative items. When they hear I can fix clocks, they wonder if the old thing could be brought back to life and what it would cost. I do not charge for my labor. I charge them what the parts, if any, cost me and then ask they make a donation to our local ministerial association and food pantry for an amount they feel the repair was worth to them. For a price they can afford, they get their treasure working, I get to enjoy saving it from the landfill and bringing it back to life and the needy in my community get supported. Professional repair shops may feel this takes from their livelihood, but the clocks I repair would likely never see an expensive professional anyway. So, yes, were these repairs based solely on financial justification, the clock would remain non-functional or be relegated to a landfill, but the value of a clock is often more than just intrinsic.
dperry428 That is what I call a happy arrangement. You are indeed a very nice man to do that. It works out good from every angle. Thanks for your service and reply. Guy
@@charlesfoster141 Mr dperry is very generous man by his ideas and helps giving to any body in need including my self.
@@dperry428 that is amazingly kind, and I love your videos. How did you learn how to repair clocks?
When I was finished with my military service in 1966, my wife and I moved back near her family. My father-in-law was a machinist who repaired clock movements for a collector who lived down the street. That neighbor had hundreds of clocks of almost every variety, including many that had badly worn dials and deteriorated reverse painted glass elements. My father-in-law knew I enjoyed art projects and asked if I could repaint and number some of the bad dials and also redo the deteriorated reverse paintings. He took me to the neighbor's house to meet the man and I was instantly enthralled by his old clock collection that filled the building that was once his welding shop. After doing several art repairs on some of his clocks, he asked what he owed me. I asked for a "junker" clock that I could fix up for my wife and me. That was the start. My father-in-law taught me some basics of repair and also how to use a lathe and milling machine. After a couple years of learning, my father-in-law passed away in 1968 and I was on my own. I've been repairing and adding to my knowledge and skills from that time forward. I'm still learning at 80 years of age.
7:52
Bent pin keeps it from being stopped by the stop lever.
Pronounced “Reg oo la”
ruclips.net/video/XV400YSLYfQ/видео.html
pronounce.name/how-to-pronounce-regula
ruclips.net/video/0vnWw-1T4_Y/видео.html
Kind of depends on where you're from.