2003 Toyota RAV4 battery light is just haunting me!! Check and cleaned my connections and wires. Got done watching your video and now I’m ready for round two on checking other components. Much respect 🫡
I'm also having the same issue with my 2000 Toyota Camry. Maybe it's a Toyota issue 😆 The alternator is putting out over 14 volts at the battery so that's not it, But I did go through five alternators before I got a good one! Maybe it's time for a Honda!
Great video! Thanks! Sometimes brushes can wear inside alternator and not make good contact. Also, for some custom set ups, you can upgrade to an adjustable regulator on alternator to fine tune the voltage. Just for general knowledge
A really dim battery light was fixed on mine by tightening the connectors on the battery posts. Mechanic just didn't tighten them good enough when installing a new alternator. Battery is new as well. So if both are new and you see dim, fluctuating battery light, the connectors might just need extra tightening.
I had a Charging System Malfunction warning recently with my 2016 Mazda CX-3 AWD. Turns out that it wasn't the battery or alternator that was a problem, it was a faulty serpentine belt, which was a big relief as I only had to spend less than $150 on repairs.
Thank you for the information. You're the first guy that talks about the onboard computer. My voltage is sometimes 13.2 V , In which case my battery light lights up also as much as 17 V. In which case the battery light lights up. Change the battery and change the alternator but not original from dealer. It's a 2006 Lexus R. X330. What I needed to know was Yoon board computer sends a signal to the battery light on the - because it's not reading the proper voltage coming out of the alternator that makes sense to me now.
Great video I’m checking everything you mentioned. Batteries are 2 yrs old had them checked and👍🏼. Alternator next. However a mechanic that works on emergency vehicles told me to swap the batteries around every 3 months. So the primary battery gets changed. My truck has two batteries. It’s a 7.3L diesel.
I have a 99 rodeo and when the battery and brake light comes on the alternator is bad, had alternator replaced and the lights are still on, mechanic said they double checked everything to make sure nothing was loose, had battery and alternator tested at 3 different places and all the voltage is showing good. I was driving it the other day and the lights off for a few seconds but came back on, I don't know what else to do. I'm driving it but nervous
Great video thanks I'm working on my 06 Cadillac STS v8. It's very interesting what you said about checking the alternator's voltage is in the proper range, and how it might be a good alternator but your battery is bad
My battery light is on, I changed my ignition coils and spark plugs the other day, and now the battery symbol comes on, and sometimes the wrench symbol comes on
I have a 2009 Chevy aveo and it is draining the battery quickly I have replaced battery ,alternator and ecm all new. And hasn't fixed the issue . When installed new ecm it will no longer turn over what could the problem be?
I watched your video. I'm curious on your opinion on this. I've replaced my alternator and throttle sensor. Ever since then my check charging system keeps coming on but my vehicle seems to run fine. I've made sure there's no corrosion to the battery. I don't know what to do. Frustrated. Please help
Great Video about alternator. I have a 2001 Toyota sienna xle. I was driving today and all suddenly I have no power. The RPM jumped up and down and just stop. All the lights are dim, hazard and signal lights. The alternator original from Toyota. I don’t believe it been change. When I got home parked the car. It won’t start just loud clicking noises. I tested the battery it showed 11.2 amps. I have my battery tested at Autozone they say it was good, but hard to believe.
See Update below: I have a 1990 Toyota pickup with intermittent alternator light coming on. Cigarette lighter has a volt indicator plugged into it which reads about 11volts when Batt light is on and about 13-14 volts when the Batt light goes off. Sometimes when I firmly tap the alternator with engine running, the Batt light will go off, but not always. I think perhaps the voltage regulator or maybe the brushes in the Alt are malfunctioning? Hard to say. Comments? Update: It was the brushes. They had worn down to the very last section of contact material and tapping the alternator would momentarily make contact with the commutator and charge and dash light would go out. I replaced the alternator and inspected the defective one before returning it as a core and the commutator had two, 2-3 mm grooves in the stator and would have needed to be turned smooth, so the most expedient action was alternator replacement for about $140.
That is very smart of you to use a voltage indicator plugged into the cigarette lighter. The voltage indicator helps eliminate the diode trio and the accidental grounding of the wire connected to the battery light in the instrument panel. It's either going to be your voltage regulator, rotor, or the stator windings. If it were the brushes, the light would go off every time you firmly tapped the alternator. Let us know what fixed it. I'm sure it will help someone else in the future.
You were incorrect on all counts. It was the brushes. They had worn down to the very last section of contact material and tapping the alternator would momentarily make contact with the commutator and charge and dash light would go out. I replaced the alternator and inspected the defective one before returning it as a core and the commutator had two, 2-3 mm grooves in the stator and would have needed to be turned smooth, so the most expedient action was alternator replacement for about $140.
@@GereDJ2Thanks for the update. Goes to show how much I know...lol, but that voltage indicator is a smart move. It helps you eliminate some things. The majority of older alternators from the early 90s and back grounded the battery light through the brushes and that's another reason I didn't think it was the brushes. The newer ones get grounded through a resistor before the regulator and brushes. You most likely had the newer style, but I could be wrong again. Thanks again for the update.
Great video. The problem I’m having is when I drive on the freeway at high speeds at any random moment my battery starts to get low. I can drive 2 hrs or even 15 minutes on the freeway and this starts to happen. Any suggestions?
Make sure the battery is secured down with a bracket so it's not moving around at high speed. Also make sure the fluid level is good and connectors on the posts are clean and tight. Get it tested at Autozone, they do free testing on charging system to make sure your battery, alternator is good.
My last battery died by putting regular tap water in it. Bad mistake. Flouride and chlorine will kill battery. To be extra safe you can buy special water for it although most people likely just add distilled water.
If you get solid bright battery light the alternator might be dying. A dim light often means connectors are loose or battery going bad in my experience anyway
I have an 08 grand Marquis, battery light comes on intermittently, checked voltage when light is on, reads 14.3. also reads the same when light is off. Any suggestions?
Same here, 2002 LTC but only happened after rebuilding the alternator using new bearings, new rectifier and the same old voltage regulator. I'll replacing the VR and see what happens. The charging is fine, 14.4V no lights flickering, window regulator is quick etc checked each and every fuse, fusable link.. all good. Will let you know after i change the VR.
@ronniepemberton1942 There's a wire that goes from the ignition switch to the battery light then from the battery light to the alternator. This wire grounds out at times within or near the voltage regulator. When it grounds out is when the battery light comes on. Most of the time it's inside or near the voltage regulator where it grounds out, but it could be that this wire's insulation has been damaged and it's grounding out between the battery light and the alternator. You first need to make sure the wire from the battery light to the alternator isn't shorting out. Then you can either replace the alternator or disassembe your current alternator and replace the voltage regulator.
Thanks for the list to check.... 2004 SATURN ION, 390999 miles, 5spd, been with Me since new ❤ Alternator replaced at 265,000... eVeRytHiNg flashed and acted cRaZy when it went out. Today the battery light came on... That's a first. 🤔 Diagnostic gizmo said "no code". So I'm hoping it's just the battery... Or connection. Anyway, drove home from Austin 2 hours with that battery light on... Towards the end the AC got warm. So I turned the AC & fan off... Driver window worked, sunroof opened, but passenger window ignored Me. About 30 miles later, the airbag light turned on as I turned into the driveway.... 😜 Motor acting alright, just seemed like the car was deciding what to live without while driving. Gotta check the age of the battery... BTW same AC since the beginning of time... Only thing I've ever had to do was replace a relay fuse about ten years ago. Seriously ❤❤❤ My SATURN Coupe.
Part 2: Battery charged enough to drive to My 👍 Mechanic. Located 2015 lifetime warranty for Alternator & purchased part yesterday. 😁 9 years is pretty good for 2nd Alternator, now onto #3 at 390888 miles... HELPS to have ONE knowledgeable Mechanic that trustworthy... Limit who is allowed to work on the vehicle. 👍
I just bought a Buick Enclave 2011 and the battery light is on all the time in the cluster. The old owner says that the alternator and the battery were changed and it's not solved. I don't know what can be the problem. Any idea?
I have an issue with the multifunction switch , my withers sometimes won't shut off , it seems like when I use the van more and it heats up inside ,it gets better and the wipers quit
Got a 2002 Nissan Frontier replaced alternator and Battery and cleaned up Battery Terminals etc. Tested Voltage with Everything On. Ac max, Headlight high beam on etc. 14.3 voltage at idle. Lights On still.! SMH help please
You checked all the most common causes, so the issue is likely harder to troubleshoot. The computer or the wiring may be having a problem which is more difficult. I would double check all the connections, check for any damaged wires, and be sure the fuses are all good.
Bro. I have a 10th gen civic. 2L non turbo. Oil and battery light came on and car loss acelleration.It cleared after restarting the car. What’s your take?
My '12 Camry after first start of the day my battery light comes on. It starts fine and after I run or drive it for 10-12 minutes it turns off. Then each additional start of the day the light doesn't come back on. I had the alternator and battery tested at a parts store and they both passed. I need to check the running voltage to make sure it is putting out the rated numbers like you said. I'm assuming I have either a parasitic draw issue or a bad fuse or relay or maybe ground. It's like something drains it just enough to trigger the light. Also until this morning, for the last three days the light never came on at all. It started originally one week and a day ago.
@@shaunmurphy412 Not yet. It's weird. It's like a parasitic drain or maybe a bad relay not turning off something when it's shut off. The days when the battery/charging system light comes on, it's right after I start it in the morning. It isn't drained enough to not start and goes off after running about 10-12 minutes. I usually drive around the same time of day. I park it around 11 am and it sits until around 5:00 am the next morning. If I let it sit longer without starting and running it then it has taken several minutes longer for the light to go off. Also, some days the light doesn't come on at all. That's the case often. Sometimes it'll be up to four days straight without coming on. I bought another alternator to try just in case. It's a remanufactured one with a lifetime warranty. I haven't installed it yet bc I really believe it's not it bc it seems to charge and that's why the light goes off at the same time. Like I said it seems to be something pulling power while it's off and when I start and run it then it charges up the battery and light goes off. I need my relays and fuses and slots tested to see but everywhere I've asked said it could take forever to find the culprit. Not sure why bc it seems like you'd just test each slot to see if it's drawing power while it's off. When checking relays it may take longer bc you have to send power to them and then have to wait several minutes for the system to settle back down so that can add up time. I bought a new multimeter to test but I'm very limited in my ability to physically stand and bend over bc I have severe back, hips and neck issues as well as a muscle condition and my feet are messed up from bones and spurs that cause ulcers I have to get treated often. I know how but just am not able most times. I could with help but I don't have many people to help around. But yeah I've just been driving it and researching but I want and need to fix the issue bc it will likely hurt my alternator or atleast it's lifespan. Plus I don't want to always have to start and let it run every morning to charge it. I'm gonna put a battery trickle charger or regular battery charger on low and slow so I don't have to waste fuel and wear and tear etc. Sorry I made this reply long. I appreciate you asking about it. Have a good day.
Hi. Can you give me an idea about my problem please. Battry light illuminating all the time but it’s dim. Flickers when load is high and low, like if I turn on AC. Also, rpm goes low at idle and battery light flickering. Recently changed the battery and alternator.
my alternator bracket broke and i have the part on the way but i connected it directly i put a little supe glue on the just so it wouldnt move not mess with the prongs, ive got the warning light brake and battery. i checked the fuses the connection im hoping once i fix the bracket the warning light will go.
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue
Humming sound under hood when trying to start, clicking noise when trying to start.. the starter is less then a year old timing belt changed - battery less then a year old. I’m sick of it
It's most likely going to be your battery, alternator, too much resistance in thick positive cable or thin positive wire going to starter, or bad ground from engine block back to battery. If your battery terminals are dirty, clean them. Make sure all the connections from the battery to the starter are tight; this includes your battery terminals.
Update? I just bought a 2024 ram romaster for $💯,💯+(100,000$+) to live in it and turn it into a mobile home....ordered an indoor heater from china which is gonna take 25+days to deliver so until then i been using inbuilt heater (cuz Canadaian winters are unbearable and harsh) and doin that few times i drained battery sumtimes while charging my devices or running fan without idle/ withoutengine runnin after which had to start with a jump start cable/ booster cable with the help of random strangers who connect it with their cars battery and get mine working again,but been doin it for a week or two at max if i recall correctly it happened a total of less than 10 times but it mesed up my vans electrical systems i guess , and becuz i made changes that have voided any warranty i gues im just FCCKED BUT I NEVER HAD A CHOICE FCCKN HATE LIVING IN THIS FROZEN DEATHLAND 🇨🇦 🤮
I hope you see this. I recently had my alternator changed a few months ago and just a few days ago I had to replace my battery. Now since I’ve changed the battery the comes on the car drove for a few days and gave out. Took the battery in they said bad it was a bad battery I was able to exchange it. However I put the newer battery in and the light keeps coming on but now the car won’t keep power I was able to drive it just a little before it gave out on me again. Any suggestions . PLEASE I NEED HELP
@@lillianm1242 I didn’t. I just purchased another alternator so hopefully in the this coming week I can get it put on and or figured out. I can give an update when I get it done.
2003 Toyota RAV4 battery light is just haunting me!! Check and cleaned my connections and wires. Got done watching your video and now I’m ready for round two on checking other components. Much respect 🫡
Did you ever figure it out?
I had that RAV4 checked out by multiple shops and couldn’t find the issue, so I solved the issue and sold that bad boy😁😁😁
I'm also having the same issue with my 2000 Toyota Camry. Maybe it's a Toyota issue 😆 The alternator is putting out over 14 volts at the battery so that's not it, But I did go through five alternators before I got a good one! Maybe it's time for a Honda!
@@bryanjones4985 I sold my RAV4 and got a Avalon, no more issues.
Great video! Thanks!
Sometimes brushes can wear inside alternator and not make good contact.
Also, for some custom set ups, you can upgrade to an adjustable regulator on alternator to fine tune the voltage. Just for general knowledge
A really dim battery light was fixed on mine by tightening the connectors on the battery posts. Mechanic just didn't tighten them good enough when installing a new alternator. Battery is new as well. So if both are new and you see dim, fluctuating battery light, the connectors might just need extra tightening.
I had a Charging System Malfunction warning recently with my 2016 Mazda CX-3 AWD.
Turns out that it wasn't the battery or alternator that was a problem, it was a faulty serpentine belt, which was a big relief as I only had to spend less than $150 on repairs.
Thank you for the information. You're the first guy that talks about the onboard computer. My voltage is sometimes 13.2 V , In which case my battery light lights up also as much as 17 V. In which case the battery light lights up. Change the battery and change the alternator but not original from dealer.
It's a 2006 Lexus R. X330. What I needed to know was Yoon board computer sends a signal to the battery light on the - because it's not reading the proper voltage coming out of the alternator that makes sense to me now.
Great video
I’m checking everything you mentioned.
Batteries are 2 yrs old had them checked and👍🏼.
Alternator next. However a mechanic that works on emergency vehicles told me to swap the batteries around every 3 months. So the primary battery gets changed. My truck has two batteries. It’s a 7.3L diesel.
I have a 99 rodeo and when the battery and brake light comes on the alternator is bad, had alternator replaced and the lights are still on, mechanic said they double checked everything to make sure nothing was loose, had battery and alternator tested at 3 different places and all the voltage is showing good. I was driving it the other day and the lights off for a few seconds but came back on, I don't know what else to do. I'm driving it but nervous
Great video thanks I'm working on my 06 Cadillac STS v8. It's very interesting what you said about checking the alternator's voltage is in the proper range, and how it might be a good alternator but your battery is bad
You missed one more thing on your list!
ELD (Electronic Load Detector) and its located inside the fuse box UNDER the hood...
My battery light is on, I changed my ignition coils and spark plugs the other day, and now the battery symbol comes on, and sometimes the wrench symbol comes on
You need to get a it checked with a computer scanner tool to diagnose the problem because with
@@ryanhamilton9709 thanks
@@ryanhamilton9709obd scanner
I have a 2009 Chevy aveo and it is draining the battery quickly I have replaced battery ,alternator and ecm all new. And hasn't fixed the issue . When installed new ecm it will no longer turn over what could the problem be?
So I took my car to the shop they said my battery and alternator are all good but my battery light is on what should I do next?
my ford edge light cam on but it start up what chould it be
Great technical and educational rundown. Keep good going!
I watched your video. I'm curious on your opinion on this. I've replaced my alternator and throttle sensor. Ever since then my check charging system keeps coming on but my vehicle seems to run fine. I've made sure there's no corrosion to the battery. I don't know what to do. Frustrated. Please help
Great Video about alternator. I have a 2001 Toyota sienna xle. I was driving today and all suddenly I have no power. The RPM jumped up and down and just stop. All the lights are dim, hazard and signal lights. The alternator original from Toyota. I don’t believe it been change. When I got home parked the car. It won’t start just loud clicking noises. I tested the battery it showed 11.2 amps. I have my battery tested at Autozone they say it was good, but hard to believe.
Bmw e39' s. Bmw e46's they are linked to the low oil light sensor. If the oil sensor in the oil pan is a open circut, will cause this issue.
Could you please elaborate this further ? I’m using E46 & have the intermittent battery light warning
Dude. THANK YOU
Great video. Covered all bases.
See Update below: I have a 1990 Toyota pickup with intermittent alternator light coming on. Cigarette lighter has a volt indicator plugged into it which reads about 11volts when Batt light is on and about 13-14 volts when the Batt light goes off. Sometimes when I firmly tap the alternator with engine running, the Batt light will go off, but not always. I think perhaps the voltage regulator or maybe the brushes in the Alt are malfunctioning? Hard to say. Comments? Update: It was the brushes. They had worn down to the very last section of contact material and tapping the alternator would momentarily make contact with the commutator and charge and dash light would go out. I replaced the alternator and inspected the defective one before returning it as a core and the commutator had two, 2-3 mm grooves in the stator and would have needed to be turned smooth, so the most expedient action was alternator replacement for about $140.
I would take the alternator to an auto part store and have them test it. If it tests good, then I would replace the voltage regulator.
That is very smart of you to use a voltage indicator plugged into the cigarette lighter.
The voltage indicator helps eliminate the diode trio and the accidental grounding of the wire connected to the battery light in the instrument panel.
It's either going to be your voltage regulator, rotor, or the stator windings. If it were the brushes, the light would go off every time you firmly tapped the alternator. Let us know what fixed it. I'm sure it will help someone else in the future.
You were incorrect on all counts. It was the brushes. They had worn down to the very last section of contact material and tapping the alternator would momentarily make contact with the commutator and charge and dash light would go out. I replaced the alternator and inspected the defective one before returning it as a core and the commutator had two, 2-3 mm grooves in the stator and would have needed to be turned smooth, so the most expedient action was alternator replacement for about $140.
@@GereDJ2Thanks for the update. Goes to show how much I know...lol, but that voltage indicator is a smart move. It helps you eliminate some things. The majority of older alternators from the early 90s and back grounded the battery light through the brushes and that's another reason I didn't think it was the brushes. The newer ones get grounded through a resistor before the regulator and brushes. You most likely had the newer style, but I could be wrong again. Thanks again for the update.
Great video. The problem I’m having is when I drive on the freeway at high speeds at any random moment my battery starts to get low. I can drive 2 hrs or even 15 minutes on the freeway and this starts to happen. Any suggestions?
Make sure the battery is secured down with a bracket so it's not moving around at high speed. Also make sure the fluid level is good and connectors on the posts are clean and tight. Get it tested at Autozone, they do free testing on charging system to make sure your battery, alternator is good.
My last battery died by putting regular tap water in it. Bad mistake. Flouride and chlorine will kill battery. To be extra safe you can buy special water for it although most people likely just add distilled water.
If you get solid bright battery light the alternator might be dying. A dim light often means connectors are loose or battery going bad in my experience anyway
I have an 08 grand Marquis, battery light comes on intermittently, checked voltage when light is on, reads 14.3. also reads the same when light is off. Any suggestions?
Same here, 2002 LTC but only happened after rebuilding the alternator using new bearings, new rectifier and the same old voltage regulator. I'll replacing the VR and see what happens. The charging is fine, 14.4V no lights flickering, window regulator is quick etc checked each and every fuse, fusable link.. all good. Will let you know after i change the VR.
@ronniepemberton1942 There's a wire that goes from the ignition switch to the battery light then from the battery light to the alternator. This wire grounds out at times within or near the voltage regulator. When it grounds out is when the battery light comes on.
Most of the time it's inside or near the voltage regulator where it grounds out, but it could be that this wire's insulation has been damaged and it's grounding out between the battery light and the alternator.
You first need to make sure the wire from the battery light to the alternator isn't shorting out. Then you can either replace the alternator or disassembe your current alternator and replace the voltage regulator.
Thanks, I replaced the alternator 3 prong wiring connector and problem solved.
@@ronniepemberton1942 Good to hear. So that's where it was grounding out? Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the list to check.... 2004 SATURN ION, 390999 miles, 5spd, been with Me since new ❤
Alternator replaced at 265,000... eVeRytHiNg flashed and acted cRaZy when it went out.
Today the battery light came on... That's a first. 🤔 Diagnostic gizmo said "no code". So I'm hoping it's just the battery... Or connection.
Anyway, drove home from Austin 2 hours with that battery light on... Towards the end the AC got warm. So I turned the AC & fan off... Driver window worked, sunroof opened, but passenger window ignored Me.
About 30 miles later, the airbag light turned on as I turned into the driveway.... 😜 Motor acting alright, just seemed like the car was deciding what to live without while driving.
Gotta check the age of the battery...
BTW same AC since the beginning of time... Only thing I've ever had to do was replace a relay fuse about ten years ago.
Seriously ❤❤❤ My SATURN Coupe.
Part 2: Battery charged enough to drive to My 👍 Mechanic.
Located 2015 lifetime warranty for Alternator & purchased part yesterday. 😁
9 years is pretty good for 2nd Alternator, now onto #3 at 390888 miles... HELPS to have ONE knowledgeable Mechanic that trustworthy... Limit who is allowed to work on the vehicle. 👍
I just bought a Buick Enclave 2011 and the battery light is on all the time in the cluster. The old owner says that the alternator and the battery were changed and it's not solved. I don't know what can be the problem. Any idea?
I would start from the beginning, get a meter test of the battery and alternator output, and if those are good, test the battery sensor.
I have an issue with the multifunction switch , my withers sometimes won't shut off , it seems like when I use the van more and it heats up inside ,it gets better and the wipers quit
great video covered all basis.
Got a 2002 Nissan Frontier replaced alternator and Battery and cleaned up Battery Terminals etc. Tested Voltage with Everything On. Ac max, Headlight high beam on etc. 14.3 voltage at idle. Lights On still.! SMH help please
You checked all the most common causes, so the issue is likely harder to troubleshoot. The computer or the wiring may be having a problem which is more difficult. I would double check all the connections, check for any damaged wires, and be sure the fuses are all good.
Bro. I have a 10th gen civic. 2L non turbo. Oil and battery light came on and car loss acelleration.It cleared after restarting the car. What’s your take?
My '12 Camry after first start of the day my battery light comes on. It starts fine and after I run or drive it for 10-12 minutes it turns off. Then each additional start of the day the light doesn't come back on. I had the alternator and battery tested at a parts store and they both passed. I need to check the running voltage to make sure it is putting out the rated numbers like you said. I'm assuming I have either a parasitic draw issue or a bad fuse or relay or maybe ground. It's like something drains it just enough to trigger the light. Also until this morning, for the last three days the light never came on at all. It started originally one week and a day ago.
You ever figure this out? I replaced both battery and alternator. New alternator only putting out 11.53 and battery holds 12.75
@@shaunmurphy412 Not yet. It's weird. It's like a parasitic drain or maybe a bad relay not turning off something when it's shut off. The days when the battery/charging system light comes on, it's right after I start it in the morning. It isn't drained enough to not start and goes off after running about 10-12 minutes. I usually drive around the same time of day. I park it around 11 am and it sits until around 5:00 am the next morning. If I let it sit longer without starting and running it then it has taken several minutes longer for the light to go off. Also, some days the light doesn't come on at all. That's the case often. Sometimes it'll be up to four days straight without coming on. I bought another alternator to try just in case. It's a remanufactured one with a lifetime warranty. I haven't installed it yet bc I really believe it's not it bc it seems to charge and that's why the light goes off at the same time. Like I said it seems to be something pulling power while it's off and when I start and run it then it charges up the battery and light goes off. I need my relays and fuses and slots tested to see but everywhere I've asked said it could take forever to find the culprit. Not sure why bc it seems like you'd just test each slot to see if it's drawing power while it's off. When checking relays it may take longer bc you have to send power to them and then have to wait several minutes for the system to settle back down so that can add up time. I bought a new multimeter to test but I'm very limited in my ability to physically stand and bend over bc I have severe back, hips and neck issues as well as a muscle condition and my feet are messed up from bones and spurs that cause ulcers I have to get treated often. I know how but just am not able most times. I could with help but I don't have many people to help around. But yeah I've just been driving it and researching but I want and need to fix the issue bc it will likely hurt my alternator or atleast it's lifespan. Plus I don't want to always have to start and let it run every morning to charge it. I'm gonna put a battery trickle charger or regular battery charger on low and slow so I don't have to waste fuel and wear and tear etc. Sorry I made this reply long. I appreciate you asking about it. Have a good day.
Hi. Can you give me an idea about my problem please.
Battry light illuminating all the time but it’s dim. Flickers when load is high and low, like if I turn on AC. Also, rpm goes low at idle and battery light flickering. Recently changed the battery and alternator.
It will need to be diagnosed but check all the battery terminals are connected good. Also, if you have a meter test the alternator output is good.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Alternator output is good. Have checked the grounds also. Seems okay.
my alternator bracket broke and i have the part on the way but i connected it directly i put a little supe glue on the just so it wouldnt move not mess with the prongs, ive got the warning light brake and battery. i checked the fuses the connection im hoping once i fix the bracket the warning light will go.
I have a voltage drop under acceleration to 12.3 volts unless i put lights on and it stays at 13.7 with a new alternator and rectifier
do you know how to fix battery light
Hooked battery up backwards now windows don't work, radio doesn't work and the battery light is on. Any suggestions
backwards... uve blown fuses is my first guess
Your fuse behind your battery blew gotta replace it i just had that happen when someone hooked it up backwards
Thx
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue
I would test the battery and the alternator.
@@HVAC_Mechanic battery is new as well as tested
Humming sound under hood when trying to start, clicking noise when trying to start.. the starter is less then a year old timing belt changed - battery less then a year old. I’m sick of it
It's most likely going to be your battery, alternator, too much resistance in thick positive cable or thin positive wire going to starter, or bad ground from engine block back to battery. If your battery terminals are dirty, clean them. Make sure all the connections from the battery to the starter are tight; this includes your battery terminals.
What
Good video, Thank You!
Everything mentioned is ok.. Battery light indicator comes on car SHUTS DOWN... EXPLANATION PLEASE.
Update? I just bought a 2024 ram romaster for $💯,💯+(100,000$+) to live in it and turn it into a mobile home....ordered an indoor heater from china which is gonna take 25+days to deliver so until then i been using inbuilt heater (cuz Canadaian winters are unbearable and harsh) and doin that few times i drained battery sumtimes while charging my devices or running fan without idle/ withoutengine runnin after which had to start with a jump start cable/ booster cable with the help of random strangers who connect it with their cars battery and get mine working again,but been doin it for a week or two at max if i recall correctly it happened a total of less than 10 times but it mesed up my vans electrical systems i guess , and becuz i made changes that have voided any warranty i gues im just FCCKED BUT I NEVER HAD A CHOICE FCCKN HATE LIVING IN THIS FROZEN DEATHLAND 🇨🇦 🤮
I hope you see this. I recently had my alternator changed a few months ago and just a few days ago I had to replace my battery. Now since I’ve changed the battery the comes on the car drove for a few days and gave out. Took the battery in they said bad it was a bad battery I was able to exchange it. However I put the newer battery in and the light keeps coming on but now the car won’t keep power I was able to drive it just a little before it gave out on me again. Any suggestions . PLEASE I NEED HELP
I would double check the battery terminals are connected good and test the alternator.
@@HVAC_Mechanic THANK YOU!!!!
@@VaughnTaylor31did you ever figure out the issue I’m having the same problem can’t figure it out. Tia
@@lillianm1242 I didn’t. I just purchased another alternator so hopefully in the this coming week I can get it put on and or figured out. I can give an update when I get it done.
@@VaughnTaylor31hello i have the samr problem did it get fixed? If you did what was the problem
My battery light goes on and off like it lose power but I had the battery and alternator tested but they said it was good
Please help me
Check the battery terminals and all the other connections at the alternator. If the engine is running good, then there likely is a loose connection.
2008 PT cruiser.
My car ford fiesta 🚗 this problem friend
Did you fixed?
wt was the problem
Need a code car won't start
2002 Cadillac town car
Well Dame
Battery don't discarge
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