Quickly becoming one of my fav RUclips channels. As someone in generation X I can really appreciate Casey being raw and just real. Telling it how it is. Keep up the amazing work!
Hi Casey! My name is Chloe. I’m really really good with composites, sir. Glass, Kevlar, Carbon fibre. If you ever need something made of a composite just send me a CAD and I’ll make it and ship it. I learned from a couple guys who have been building yachts for 50 years. ChrisCraft, Christensen Motor Yachts etc.
Casey if you take a cut off wheel and fallow the body line of the factory flare . Make reference lines and cut out an eyebrow shape cohesive to the body line . You fit your bought wheel flares in and use the factory line just wider . You can use the original fender lips . You can make it look factory but different .
I am an 18-year-old kid who bought a supercharged 89 mr2 for my first car. I saved up for years to buy it and watching people on youtube who are going out to buy an aw11 is super fun. To answer your question about how the shift boot fits, yes there are clips, but most of the center consoles don't have working clips. My shift boot is just sitting the same as yours. I have thought about using strong velcro to non-permanently attach it without hurting the center console, but I don't know. I have been a subscriber for a while and I was so excited the second I saw that you bought an aw11. Keep up the good work, I love all of your content!!!
The shift boot clips in at the front and back of the boot under the console. Although they unclip really easy. Also I recommend getting a short shift kit.
Have a look at roll center adjusters. They are spacers between the strut and lower control arm. They fix the geometry after lowering and will help with the bump steer.
Thank you for mentioning how to drill stainless vs other soft metals. Drives me nuts when I see professional mechanics go full speed and take for ever driving one hole because they need 5 bits! Stainless slow and hard baby. Aluminum wide open!
How is Casey only at 59k subscribers come on people let's keep sharing his videos!!! We need more people to see Casey's message and support Genius Garage. I think he would agree if we made it even more difficult for him to find more qualified people for Genius Garage!!! Hey if I'm wrong Casey put me in check!!
For thje shift boot attachment, use either a single or double split, small shaft collar to hold it in place. Invert the boot over the knob, slip the collar over the end of the boot around the shaft, and tighten. You will now have a hidden clasp with a neat appearance.
An idea for the shift boot, attach a plastic "ring" to the bottom of the center console with a smaller opening than the factory hole, and put the boot in from the bottom so the boot fits the opening better. Throw a nut/washer over the top of the shift handle to keep the boot up, and the trim would keep it from pulling out. I'm assuming that the bottom of the boot has a rigid ring in it with this though.
"Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't" Also since you are talking about suspension geometry, here's sn older book that has great details for suspension and chassis design! I have a copy for years now and it really helped me get started. www.amazon.com/dp/1557880557/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_98.vEbYWVXF7N
there should be 'roll center adjusting' ball joint available from hardrace. basically a ball joint with a taller shaft extending front the 'ball joint' part of the ball joint extending the the cone shaped coupler thingy further up, lower the static control arm position closer to stock. helps?
Wait, you've picked up a first gen MR2?!? Been watching off an on a while but missed this somehow... I've been into the platform for 15 years now (came from modified Vettes and Mustangs). I rebuild and part these suckers out if you need anything hit me up!
For the shift boot, you can fold it inside out, then zip tie it to the top of the shifter, then you can fold it over nicely and place the knob on top. Hope that makes sense? If it's tight enough it shouldn't fall down
hell yeah mr2!!!! glad to see you doing steel fenders. I really dislike all the crappy bolt on fenders people are installing and destroying cars. here is a good lead on some of the best 4age engine builders out there. look into doing a "7age" with a 20v head.
Loving the energy you put into the work and how you bring it across to us all Casey 👍 As for the 😁 wheel arches aka fenders, great explanation on placement it's not always about a datum and measurement sometimes you have to trust your eye. If it looks right it it's right. On the steering wheel, I've driven a few of these over the years all with the factory steering wheel and they've always felt really good. As f boy as you can go with it you still need the 3 basic inputs nailed. Go, stop and turn so I'd be tempted with the original wheel to see what the driveability is like. Seems like whoever changed the wheel in the first place just tried to fix something that wasn't broken.
Just a heads up on the steering wheel, nrg wheels often dont have any metal support past the spokes. So cutting out any of that material could cause the wheel to fail pretty quick.
Just subscribed, brilliant video's and I'm only very jealous of your car collection! Own a 20v aw11 out in the UK, looking to do flares myself as mine are starting to go. Also want that F boy stance, just curious to the flares that are available in the UK you mentioned? Cant find anything anywhere apart from universal bolt on plastic crap. Keep up the cool videos, I'll definitely be watching 🤙
i was rocking a NRG wheel on my sim rig. was really disappointed in the feel, despite it being it on a computer peripheral. rocking a Momo Trek now and its much better. Sure, the wheel's a bit ugly but its actually good enough to do virtual hour long trackday sessions.
If you make your suspension drop at the spindle it won't change your geometry . It will all articulate as designed . . The rear you may be able to raise the control arm fixture points and raise the strut mounts . Very easy
i love you are buying stuff on ebay. I buy a ton on ebay and people always hate on ebay and look down on me but my cars end up looking amazing. I am building a lexus is350 currently. I would probably sell the wheel and find the perfect fitting wheel on ebay. Also the shift boot on bottom should have some tabs to hold that ring in. look under for screw holes. if so cut out some strips of metal about a 3/4 in long and about 1/2 in wide and drill a hole and insert screws. the cips can rotate out the way for easy removal or unscrew. a trick to getting the boot to stay up around the gear knob is get a plastic bottle cap or something and drill a hole exactly as big as the shifter and slide it over and hot glut it underneath so it wont slide down. then when you put the console back in place you will have a stop for the fabric to stop at so it wont slide down. paint the bottle cap black so it looks oem. it keeps the boot up. another tip for fender flare work is dry fit the the flares. get it lined up and use a marker to make the cut lines to remove the excess metal off the original fender. when you cut it off grind down the edges and primer paint them so no raw metal is exposed. you can also cut a vaccum line down the middle and cover the lip with it so you dont cut your fingers inside while you finish. cant wait to hear the exhaust. i love wild custom exhaust! you should look into some coilover reviews for the mr2 on youtube and find the best ones.
Lowering,..... Put it back to FACTORY GEOMETRY and then use DROP SPINDLES. (Yes, I'm using capitals to grab Casey's attention when he scrolls comments :) ) That will lower the roll center with the minimum introduction of any bump steer. And going by the way the front end was pushing when you tried drifting it, not only is there waaaay too much neg camber on the rear end, the offset of those rims is incorrect for the chassis, so it may be wise to check what the factory offset was, remove any spacers previous owners may have installed, and go to the next size taller rim for more brake clearance, while binning the 'stanced/stretched tyres, as that will be causing the inside of the contact patch to lift prematurely under cornering loads - basically undoing any extra grip in the corners that the front camber may have added. The fenders are going to make it look even more X-1/9 or Stratos then ever. Yes, do a video on the Infinite Rate spring that is also known as the Bump Stop ;)
You could staple the shift boot. Also, the NRG wheel is cool but that in-cab video of the guy with a cheap wheel getting into an accident has scared me away from cheap steering wheels completely. The whole outer ring came off and all that was left was the 3 sharp spokes waiting to impale someone
your gonna hate the fixed racing seats. i have a corbelco raching seat from a rally car in my eagle talon bolted to the floor and it really is tight getting in and out as a daily driver. my stock seat belt works fine over my lap. i have the 5 point racing harness but no where to mount the shoulder belts yet without a roll bar
If you have a look at the whiteline roll center correction kit for the Subaru Impreza it contains the outboard front lower arm balljoint which is shorter than the standard part. The balljoint body is held in the hub carrier with an interference fit groove in the body that the pinch bolt interacts with and the pinch action itself. The modified balljoint body is shorter than the standard part so the pivot point is closer to the hub carrier (or steering knuckle, don't know which term you use in the US). This dials out some of the factory idiot proof understeer but does give bump steer. To correct this the kit contains new tie rod end balljoints which is where the Whiteline kit is superior to other brands. The tie rod ends achieve the correction by having a dog leg section where so the pivot of the ball is higher in relation to the tie rod. Would the whiteline tie rod ends for the Subaru fit your MR2? I cannot tell you but if you find the pitch and diameter of your tie rods I would be happy to measure mine for comparison. When I took my car to a shop to have new wheel bearings pressed they tore the boots on the Whiteline parts on one side (didn't grease the separation tool) so I contacted the UK Whiteline distributor who were able to supply the new boot kit for the four balljoints. Maybe if they will fit you could source the bump steer correction tie rod ends on their own? Otherwise you will have to modify your tie rods, possibly replace with rose joint rod ends?
+1 for the christmas interior what kinda monster doesnt like christmas you should be able to get an m12x1.25? screw on dingus from ebay that will go on before the shift knob and clip into that shift boot so its not all wonky
There should be some sort of really funky u-clips in the console that should (in theory) hold that shift boot in place, if not i would try finding them at a local napa store. And in regards to that new big red monstrosity that is a wheel? All those suggestions you are making sound good, but... you have to ask yourself, do I really have the time to deal with this? Or should i just find something else that might be a little bit better in the long-run. It's your decision. But either way, it's your decision. I will still be here waiting and watching. Unfortunately i never had the funds for a MR2, all i could afford was a 84 Celica GT...but i really wanted a GTS. But that GT was really a fun little car to sling around at local SCCA and PCA autocrosses. 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a high flow cat and a custom one piece driveshaft to replace the two piece unit that had non replaceable joints.
Momo Monte Carlos and similar wheels like the grant Corsa GT(cheap leather wheel) feel much better and actually have some grip to them and aren't just big pool noodles in a circle.
Bolt the steering wheel on and let it ride. If you try to cut it and modify it, it will probably just come apart and not be as nice as the original one.
So poor man's shift boot retailer. O ring, I've used fat o rings to hold boots up before and it works well, also you're not helping me not wanting an sw20 lol want an mr2 more and more
these are surprisingly heavy due to the bulk head. Some people believe this was developed from the aborted lotus x100. These rumors were shot down by totoya however some of the people who worked for lotus during that time claim the rumor to still be true.
Run a gymkhana with those fboy wheels. Now do it again stock. Guaranteed the stock will be faster. MR2 is designed to be nimble, not fat. MR2 and AE86 were both damned nimble and quick on tight courses, not drag racers or boulevard cruisers.
you should get a wheel you're happy with with. i would return, sell or trade it. also since its a f-boi build just zip tie the top of the shift boot, no one will care and it wont move too much
Lol, sorry for making fun of your Christmas styling Casey. It's your car so hey, what matters is if you like it. I can respect that. I just wouldn't do it to my car.
don't buy NRG products other than their steering wheel hub quick releases, their quick release/lock combo is super fucking cool, but every other product they make is literal dogshit
Why not reupholster the original wheel? I would get rid of that wheel. David Patterson did a video on how an NRG wheel broke apart when he leaned on it too hard. Might want to look into that or test it before you commit to it ruclips.net/video/zBYmtMJ-ylk/видео.html
Hey Casey, is there a way to contact you privately? I would like to have a conversation with you in private. Your channel is awesome and i love the content. If you could let me know I would greatly appreciate it and i look forward to speaking with you.
@@LaughingBearWindDies Should we discuss the history of pig latin aswell? Language history is irrelevant, what is correct in the modern translation is of importance.
I admit it is possible some people who have the money might buy a few more than 1 of their favorite cars so “Some guy” DOESNT weld fender flares to it....😕🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
nrg is good if you buy the right stuff. not all hondas are good not all fords are good so does it make them bad and unsafe? no every brand has low and mid range and high end product lines. ive used tons of nrg products. one thing is the newer steering wheels i dont like though. the design isnt the best. -
@@cppctek I've seen countless examples of their seats shattering in accidents and steering wheels falling apart and impaling drivers. If they manage get their stuff FIA certified I'll change my tune.
technotoytuning do a bunch of suspension stuff for aw11, including front roll center adjusters to help correct bumpsteer
Quickly becoming one of my fav RUclips channels. As someone in generation X I can really appreciate Casey being raw and just real. Telling it how it is. Keep up the amazing work!
Hi Casey!
My name is Chloe. I’m really really good with composites, sir. Glass, Kevlar, Carbon fibre. If you ever need something made of a composite just send me a CAD and I’ll make it and ship it.
I learned from a couple guys who have been building yachts for 50 years. ChrisCraft, Christensen Motor Yachts etc.
He's married. (pause...pan slowly to face ) But I'm not. ( insert wide grin ). ( raise canned laughter ). -sorry. Just kidding.
Casey if you take a cut off wheel and fallow the body line of the factory flare . Make reference lines and cut out an eyebrow shape cohesive to the body line . You fit your bought wheel flares in and use the factory line just wider . You can use the original fender lips . You can make it look factory but different .
I am an 18-year-old kid who bought a supercharged 89 mr2 for my first car. I saved up for years to buy it and watching people on youtube who are going out to buy an aw11 is super fun. To answer your question about how the shift boot fits, yes there are clips, but most of the center consoles don't have working clips. My shift boot is just sitting the same as yours. I have thought about using strong velcro to non-permanently attach it without hurting the center console, but I don't know. I have been a subscriber for a while and I was so excited the second I saw that you bought an aw11. Keep up the good work, I love all of your content!!!
17:42 Tru Fboi's would use a Crown Royal bag for their shift boot #dontaskmehowiknow
The shift boot clips in at the front and back of the boot under the console. Although they unclip really easy. Also I recommend getting a short shift kit.
First you then MCM, this is the year of the MR2!
Also boosted bois
I just got one too
REX H ..
MCM, Boosted Bois, Casey and Sarah-n-Tuned,.. and if you look there's some smaller channels doing V6 and V8 swaps.
PiDsMedia and my channel as well, I have a lot of MR2 Sw20 content.
You’re going to get a cease and desist letter from Toyota for this MR2 😂.
Really enjoying the build, keep up the good work!
Have a look at roll center adjusters. They are spacers between the strut and lower control arm. They fix the geometry after lowering and will help with the bump steer.
Thank you for mentioning how to drill stainless vs other soft metals. Drives me nuts when I see professional mechanics go full speed and take for ever driving one hole because they need 5 bits! Stainless slow and hard baby. Aluminum wide open!
How is Casey only at 59k subscribers come on people let's keep sharing his videos!!! We need more people to see Casey's message and support Genius Garage. I think he would agree if we made it even more difficult for him to find more qualified people for Genius Garage!!! Hey if I'm wrong Casey put me in check!!
Shaun brother you are right on the money. I will gladly take the help!
For thje shift boot attachment, use either a single or double split, small shaft collar to hold it in place. Invert the boot over the knob, slip the collar over the end of the boot around the shaft, and tighten. You will now have a hidden clasp with a neat appearance.
An idea for the shift boot, attach a plastic "ring" to the bottom of the center console with a smaller opening than the factory hole, and put the boot in from the bottom so the boot fits the opening better. Throw a nut/washer over the top of the shift handle to keep the boot up, and the trim would keep it from pulling out. I'm assuming that the bottom of the boot has a rigid ring in it with this though.
you gonna show the process of welding exhausts and modyfing the wheel and such, love the build
"Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't"
Also since you are talking about suspension geometry, here's sn older book that has great details for suspension and chassis design! I have a copy for years now and it really helped me get started.
www.amazon.com/dp/1557880557/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_98.vEbYWVXF7N
there should be 'roll center adjusting' ball joint available from hardrace. basically a ball joint with a taller shaft extending front the 'ball joint' part of the ball joint extending the the cone shaped coupler thingy further up, lower the static control arm position closer to stock. helps?
Wait, you've picked up a first gen MR2?!? Been watching off an on a while but missed this somehow... I've been into the platform for 15 years now (came from modified Vettes and Mustangs). I rebuild and part these suckers out if you need anything hit me up!
For the shift boot, you can fold it inside out, then zip tie it to the top of the shifter, then you can fold it over nicely and place the knob on top. Hope that makes sense? If it's tight enough it shouldn't fall down
Like the Stratos look of the fender flares!
hell yeah mr2!!!! glad to see you doing steel fenders. I really dislike all the crappy bolt on fenders people are installing and destroying cars. here is a good lead on some of the best 4age engine builders out there. look into doing a "7age" with a 20v head.
Loving the energy you put into the work and how you bring it across to us all Casey 👍
As for the 😁 wheel arches aka fenders, great explanation on placement it's not always about a datum and measurement sometimes you have to trust your eye. If it looks right it it's right.
On the steering wheel, I've driven a few of these over the years all with the factory steering wheel and they've always felt really good. As f boy as you can go with it you still need the 3 basic inputs nailed. Go, stop and turn so I'd be tempted with the original wheel to see what the driveability is like. Seems like whoever changed the wheel in the first place just tried to fix something that wasn't broken.
Just a heads up on the steering wheel, nrg wheels often dont have any metal support past the spokes. So cutting out any of that material could cause the wheel to fail pretty quick.
Woodsport in England has the flares you mentioned....
Just subscribed, brilliant video's and I'm only very jealous of your car collection! Own a 20v aw11 out in the UK, looking to do flares myself as mine are starting to go. Also want that F boy stance, just curious to the flares that are available in the UK you mentioned? Cant find anything anywhere apart from universal bolt on plastic crap. Keep up the cool videos, I'll definitely be watching 🤙
i was rocking a NRG wheel on my sim rig. was really disappointed in the feel, despite it being it on a computer peripheral. rocking a Momo Trek now and its much better. Sure, the wheel's a bit ugly but its actually good enough to do virtual hour long trackday sessions.
If you make your suspension drop at the spindle it won't change your geometry . It will all articulate as designed . . The rear you may be able to raise the control arm fixture points and raise the strut mounts . Very easy
A lot of the time when you get really low you can attach the tie rod upside down if it goes in from the bottom you can put them in from the top
Make some custom chopped drop knuckles to retain geometry. Would be a very involved process to do properly though
Thank you for mentioning corrosion protection. It is a must!
i love you are buying stuff on ebay. I buy a ton on ebay and people always hate on ebay and look down on me but my cars end up looking amazing. I am building a lexus is350 currently. I would probably sell the wheel and find the perfect fitting wheel on ebay. Also the shift boot on bottom should have some tabs to hold that ring in. look under for screw holes. if so cut out some strips of metal about a 3/4 in long and about 1/2 in wide and drill a hole and insert screws. the cips can rotate out the way for easy removal or unscrew.
a trick to getting the boot to stay up around the gear knob is get a plastic bottle cap or something and drill a hole exactly as big as the shifter and slide it over and hot glut it underneath so it wont slide down. then when you put the console back in place you will have a stop for the fabric to stop at so it wont slide down. paint the bottle cap black so it looks oem. it keeps the boot up.
another tip for fender flare work is dry fit the the flares. get it lined up and use a marker to make the cut lines to remove the excess metal off the original fender. when you cut it off grind down the edges and primer paint them so no raw metal is exposed. you can also cut a vaccum line down the middle and cover the lip with it so you dont cut your fingers inside while you finish.
cant wait to hear the exhaust. i love wild custom exhaust! you should look into some coilover reviews for the mr2 on youtube and find the best ones.
Where did you get these flares please thanks
Lowering,..... Put it back to FACTORY GEOMETRY and then use DROP SPINDLES.
(Yes, I'm using capitals to grab Casey's attention when he scrolls comments :) )
That will lower the roll center with the minimum introduction of any bump steer. And going by the way the front end was pushing when you tried drifting it, not only is there waaaay too much neg camber on the rear end, the offset of those rims is incorrect for the chassis, so it may be wise to check what the factory offset was, remove any spacers previous owners may have installed, and go to the next size taller rim for more brake clearance, while binning the 'stanced/stretched tyres, as that will be causing the inside of the contact patch to lift prematurely under cornering loads - basically undoing any extra grip in the corners that the front camber may have added.
The fenders are going to make it look even more X-1/9 or Stratos then ever.
Yes, do a video on the Infinite Rate spring that is also known as the Bump Stop ;)
Hey Casey, any chance you could link the source for the MR2 fender flares?
Woodsport
Does anyone have a link to the ebay listing for these? I'd love a set for my AW11
For the shift boot, you flip it inside out and zip tie/clamp the boot to the shaft, Then flip it back.
Heck with it. Mod that steering wheel. Record it. Bam. More awesome content!
GET IT!
Hope you'll decide to keep the general color scheme. Black with brass wheels and red fabric is just plain sexy on cars from that era!
You could staple the shift boot. Also, the NRG wheel is cool but that in-cab video of the guy with a cheap wheel getting into an accident has scared me away from cheap steering wheels completely. The whole outer ring came off and all that was left was the 3 sharp spokes waiting to impale someone
your gonna hate the fixed racing seats. i have a corbelco raching seat from a rally car in my eagle talon bolted to the floor and it really is tight getting in and out as a daily driver. my stock seat belt works fine over my lap. i have the 5 point racing harness but no where to mount the shoulder belts yet without a roll bar
I would just cut out the padding like you said on the steering wheel. I had a momo I did the same thing with, then just reglue.
Oh man! What a bad ass project!
If you like the Sparco wheel maybe just have it reupholstered. They do make kits to DIY but a shop could do it and it wouldn’t be too expensive.
Hey man, can you link the fender flares in the comments?
I would like your old steering wheel...
It would fit my 1981 Toyota Corona 4dr sedan really well... 😁😁😁
If you have a look at the whiteline roll center correction kit for the Subaru Impreza it contains the outboard front lower arm balljoint which is shorter than the standard part. The balljoint body is held in the hub carrier with an interference fit groove in the body that the pinch bolt interacts with and the pinch action itself. The modified balljoint body is shorter than the standard part so the pivot point is closer to the hub carrier (or steering knuckle, don't know which term you use in the US). This dials out some of the factory idiot proof understeer but does give bump steer. To correct this the kit contains new tie rod end balljoints which is where the Whiteline kit is superior to other brands. The tie rod ends achieve the correction by having a dog leg section where so the pivot of the ball is higher in relation to the tie rod. Would the whiteline tie rod ends for the Subaru fit your MR2? I cannot tell you but if you find the pitch and diameter of your tie rods I would be happy to measure mine for comparison.
When I took my car to a shop to have new wheel bearings pressed they tore the boots on the Whiteline parts on one side (didn't grease the separation tool) so I contacted the UK Whiteline distributor who were able to supply the new boot kit for the four balljoints. Maybe if they will fit you could source the bump steer correction tie rod ends on their own? Otherwise you will have to modify your tie rods, possibly replace with rose joint rod ends?
+1 for the christmas interior
what kinda monster doesnt like christmas
you should be able to get an m12x1.25? screw on dingus from ebay that will go on before the shift knob and clip into that shift boot so its not all wonky
For the lowering of the car you can change it to air ride suspension. You still have look of a lowered car. You still have a stiff suspension.
Mr2 for the win
Make the pipe all unequal so it burbles at idle! Maybe not the best for performance, but it sure sounds good.
F Boiiiiiiiiii
Loving the updates Casey
There should be some sort of really funky u-clips in the console that should (in theory) hold that shift boot in place, if not i would try finding them at a local napa store.
And in regards to that new big red monstrosity that is a wheel?
All those suggestions you are making sound good, but... you have to ask yourself, do I really have the time to deal with this? Or should i just find something else that might be a little bit better in the long-run. It's your decision.
But either way, it's your decision. I will still be here waiting and watching.
Unfortunately i never had the funds for a MR2, all i could afford was a 84 Celica GT...but i really wanted a GTS.
But that GT was really a fun little car to sling around at local SCCA and PCA autocrosses.
2 1/2 inch exhaust with a high flow cat and a custom one piece driveshaft to replace the two piece unit that had non replaceable joints.
Casey would you be willing to sell the old Sparco wheel when your done with it?
You should checkout Sarah in tune RUclips channel. She just did the suspension on a mr2
It’s NRG?
Of course it’s from eBay!
NRG is very unsafe. Casey should throw it out immediately
I think... you should partner with these aftermarket steering wheel manufacturers and design your own racing steering wheels! I would totally buy one.
Momo Monte Carlos and similar wheels like the grant Corsa GT(cheap leather wheel) feel much better and actually have some grip to them and aren't just big pool noodles in a circle.
Using those mufflers is going to be such a good idea
You should make a 9age for that and the indy car
Thank you Casey. I don't know how your wife does it. I would be laughing and giggling my ass off. LoL she must have nerves of steel!!!!!
Cut the steering wheel. Interested to see how you do it and then put it back together again.
Is there an Age Limit to your Genius Garage?
Bolt the steering wheel on and let it ride. If you try to cut it and modify it, it will probably just come apart and not be as nice as the original one.
So poor man's shift boot retailer. O ring, I've used fat o rings to hold boots up before and it works well, also you're not helping me not wanting an sw20 lol want an mr2 more and more
Puts a shifter boot cover over a shifter without a boot and wonders why it fits odd
If it doesn't feel comfortable but you like the way it looks just shave off some room for your fingers, resew and good to go.
Needs larger diameter wheels and definitely taller tires, ditch those skinny sidewalls!
Baby yoda hands lol
these are surprisingly heavy due to the bulk head. Some people believe this was developed from the aborted lotus x100. These rumors were shot down by totoya however some of the people who worked for lotus during that time claim the rumor to still be true.
Run a gymkhana with those fboy wheels. Now do it again stock. Guaranteed the stock will be faster. MR2 is designed to be nimble, not fat. MR2 and AE86 were both damned nimble and quick on tight courses, not drag racers or boulevard cruisers.
you should get a wheel you're happy with with. i would return, sell or trade it. also since its a f-boi build just zip tie the top of the shift boot, no one will care and it wont move too much
Stop it Casey...
Now I'm wandering how my 205 would look with that kind of flares :(
Your wife has the patience of a saint.
I like how he dresses really nice but doesn’t flaunt. And he’s a super nice guy. Plus he actually does shit. Good on ya man. Ya got good taste
Lol, sorry for making fun of your Christmas styling Casey. It's your car so hey, what matters is if you like it. I can respect that. I just wouldn't do it to my car.
Restore that Sparco wheel. That Mario Kart wheel looks silly.
I have seen a guy pull an nrg wheel apart with his hands....
don't buy NRG products other than their steering wheel hub quick releases, their quick release/lock combo is super fucking cool, but every other product they make is literal dogshit
“It’s gonna be loud,” like that’s a bad thing? 🤔
Why not reupholster the original wheel?
I would get rid of that wheel. David Patterson did a video on how an NRG wheel broke apart when he leaned on it too hard. Might want to look into that or test it before you commit to it
ruclips.net/video/zBYmtMJ-ylk/видео.html
You should give the wheel away to one unlucky subscriber and redo the one you have!
Casey does "here in my garage..." way better.
Ditch the steering wheel
He just called my grant wheel big and dumb 💀 laughed my ass off
Hey Casey, is there a way to contact you privately? I would like to have a conversation with you in private. Your channel is awesome and i love the content. If you could let me know I would greatly appreciate it and i look forward to speaking with you.
LinkedIn
@@CaseyPutsch ok cool thank you casey
@@CaseyPutsch i sent you a request on there. Im not a premium member.
Xnay on the steering wheel!
I already loved you but now you have mr2 content.. yikes. I adore you now.
Isn't it illegal having tires come out further than fenders?
That is one chunky ass wheel....
6:07 *Doesn't like STANCE.* u wot m8? Not going to get a date to prom with that mentality.
Don't want to be considered a troll, but it's FLARES not FLAIRS. :)
Please bro, its height, not heighth.
word originated in Middle English as heighthe
@@LaughingBearWindDies Should we discuss the history of pig latin aswell? Language history is irrelevant, what is correct in the modern translation is of importance.
You don't want to know what I think you should do with that Alleged Steering Wheel.
Casey digs through the glove box...oh shit, is that a meth pipe?
Kinda early
I admit it is possible some people who have the money might buy a few more than 1 of their favorite cars so “Some guy” DOESNT weld fender flares to it....😕🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I told you NRG stuff was unsafe and badly designed :/
nrg is good if you buy the right stuff. not all hondas are good not all fords are good so does it make them bad and unsafe? no every brand has low and mid range and high end product lines.
ive used tons of nrg products. one thing is the newer steering wheels i dont like though. the design isnt the best.
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@@cppctek I've seen countless examples of their seats shattering in accidents and steering wheels falling apart and impaling drivers. If they manage get their stuff FIA certified I'll change my tune.
@@Tugboatpb oh dam I didnt know about that.
Is it countless because you didn’t count? :)
@@CaseyPutsch countless because I give up trying to be helpful. Have fun with your build.
Who else has a wheel like that 👀💀