How to Insulate Your Garage Door the Easy and Inexpensive Way
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- How to insulate your garage door, it's easy to do, makes your garage more comfortable. Save money by doing it yourself! All you need is sheets of rigid foam, a tube of liquid nails, and something to cut the foam with.
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There this thing called a utility knife. Works very well. Good presentation...especially the last 30 seconds discussing how it performed over a years time.
This is the second video I’ve watched of yours so far and I just want to say thank you for the refreshing take on how to keep your garage cool! We live in Florida and it’s the first time the garage hasn’t been pre insulated and it’s hot! I appreciate your videos
Thanks Dad. Simple enough for a guy like me who never had a dad to teach me things to comprehend.
Awesome, glad I could help!
Thank you... I almost paid a contractor to do this. No need you confirmed this is a super simple DIY!!
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
Good job, thanks for posting.
Thanks for the demo and info, have a great day
I insulated my garage door this past week before the summer heat. I used 2 products from Home Depot. I first installed the Reach Barrier Reflective Air Kit ( buy additional 3M double sided tape) and then installed the Cellofoam insulation kit.
The Cellofoam kit has grooves cut in the back making it easy to bend to fit in the panels. I also used the Slice 10559 insulation cutting knife, no mess when cutting the Cellofoam. This was a great video though. Take your time and be patient, good luck to all.
So it didn’t add enough weight for you to have to change any settings or parts on the garage door? Thanks
Mike Villarreal Hi Mike, I haven’t had to change anything yet. The garage door and opener are 2 1/2 yrs old. The Cellofoam is 5 lbs per kit ( 2 1/2 kits) the Reach was less weight. I lubricate all components every 4 months ( 3 times a year). The opener doesn’t seem to struggle, but only time will tell.
Greg H thanks
Great Teacher!!! Thank you!
Just finished my double garage door. At $89 a kit (two required for 16' x 7' door) is worth it. I found the it hard to open garage door with one spring, so I upgraded and installed double springs. My door had ONE, which was barely adequate for the door when new. Dual torsion springs is far better, but builders cheap out with one. You will need duct tape to hold one edge of the insulation on some bays. Most doors have angles running vertically. When the insulation can tuck under the angle it is supported. In bays where the insulation butts against the back of the angle nothing is holding it but the two anchors per panel bay. That is not enough to hold the edge. I got white duct tape for appearance. Silver or other color would look bad.
Now the door, even with insulation is easy to open and close. This also saves wear on the garage door opener (which I had to replace the drive bushing which was trashed). Total cost $56 for spring set, self installed, not too bad. Two insulation kits $150 (one new stock $89 one old stock $70 see below), $7 for white duct tape. Total investment about $217 and about 3-4 hours. Looks nice and will keep the heat down in garage that got afternoon sun. I now need to add some vent fan or AC in the wall (garage is fully insulated and dry walled).
Old vs New Stock. Look at BOX the one with the big R-8, this is the newer version. The old version has Garage. I had two kits one old and one new stock. The older stock is at least 4 years from what Owning Corning told me. The pink insulation was slightly more compressed when unrolled, and it was faded (not bright pink). The color fade is not critical since you don't see it, there is white vinyl cover. However the insulation affects how effective the insulation is. Over time it should puff out to at least 2" to give you the insulation value of R-8. After unrolling I let them sit flat for a day. They all puffed up. In some cases the new stuff was still slightly compressed. The older insulation did fluff up, and was about the same thickness as new, may be slightly less on average. So if you want fresh insulation look for the R-8 white letters in RED box...
This seems like the right way to go. I need to winterize the garage for the simple fact that I like to grill all year AND my niece does softball and we need a place to practice in the winter.
Thanks for the video
Thank you.
Great video. I'm getting read to do this over the next couple of days. Just grabbed 4 4x8 1.5" thickness R Tech foam boards from my local HD. I noticed on mine that the R Tech labeling is an adhesive label that can be removed to reveal an all white finish. Curious to know if yours had that too. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info. I want to create an art space in the garage and want it to be comfortable all year.
Awesome application following simple instructions. Thank you Eric Lindbergh👍
Thanks Don!
What’s the R value?
Thanks I was wondering how to do this . :) now I know, greatly appreciate it
Excellent "How-to"!
6 years later and you have saved a life! I am freeezing right now HAHA
Great video coming from South Florida 🌞🌝🌞🌞🌝🌞. 95* on a daily!!!!!
Going to try it now !!!!!
We’ve been between 100 and 105 for the last week, but at least we don’t have the humidity out here. Best of luck getting your garage cold!
Adding polystyrene foam is definitely a money saver but it can also be a pain in the butt to cut. I have many years of experience cutting this foam to insulate my 150 year old farmhouse and the best I've found is the Bosch T313AW3 3-Piece 6" Knife Edge for Soft Materials, T-Shank Jig Saw Blades. I bought mine 5 years ago and have cut several hundred feet of foam and I'm still on my first blade. Well worth the money.
A table saw does it easy
@@terrythomas790 but that can be messy. The Bosch blades can be used indoors as they produce very little saw dust, it has almost zero kerf thickness.
A table saw would make it snow foam!
I do a lot of insulation foam art for drama sets. I have found that an electric carving knife works very well for cutting large pieces and never seems to get dull. Just another way to cut that stuff. Oh, and shiny side out looks nicer, in my opinion.
Hello Sir, what is the R- value on this insulation? We live in Virginia and get all 4 seasons. Not too sure if that matters but worth mentioning.
What about using closed cell rigid foam boards with a thermal barrier on one face instead of the Rtech foam? Will the added R value be worth the trouble of ordering the specialty foam boards?
Thanks for the video! Any issues with the added weight on the door on the torsion springs, etc?
No problems so far, I've had the foam up for about a year. The added weight on the door still is less than a factory made insulated door, so as long as your hardware can lift a factory made insulated door you should be fine.
Robert, thank you, this was my biggest concern. I know I can adjust the force to open and close the door, but I’d rather not. Thank you for your inquiry!
Any issues with the garage door balancing did you have to replace the springs or anything with the added weight?
I've seen other videos that recommend not using an adhesive to secure the panel due to expansion and contraction of the door panel eventually causing the adhesive to fail. What are your thoughts on the issue? Any notice of panel shift or letting go under these circumstances?
I haven’t had anything pop loose yet.
I went with the Downs Corning garage kit total was about a hundred and sixty bucks with tax. I looked at rigid foam but the cost is going to be very close to the kit and I think the R rating was higher for the Ownings Corning kit.
Should insulate the metal verticals, too. Also use a flexible insulation on the joints.
Awesome. I didn't know you could do that. Curious as to weather this effected the Lift Master or whatever motor that lifts the door up.
I put it on my garage door. No effect, the styrofoam weighs very little. To improve your doors ease of up and down, be sure to spray a lubricant on all the hinges, rollers, and chains. Makes a world of difference.
I need to buy this insulation foam; I checked with Lowes and it shows they have different measurements. Which size do you recommend dad? My garage door is identical to your garage door. Thank you for your video, very helpful
Sorry, just saw this. I used 1 inch foam I believe
What was the R-value of the foam you used?
Should be an air barrier between the foam and door. I get one extra sheet and cut small strips to use as a spacer.
Great point! Thanks.
What thickness on foam boards you go with??
how much did it all weigh? did you adjust the garage spring?
I didn’t weigh the difference but no, didn’t have to adjust the spring.
What is/was the R-factor on the R-TEC Foam Board you used, DIYD?
foam board comes from a variety of manufacturures, i think the higher R ratings can be found on the SUPER TUFF-R brand. There are other brands bu that brand seems to be superior. Boards are usually available in 1/2" , 1" , and 2" thickness. The R rating on SUPER TUFF-R brand 1 inch foam board is 6.5
I think this product he used is rated R-9
Did you find it to be cheaper to buy the larger sheets of foam than the precut pieces? I'm just starting to look into doing this. For $90 on amazon you can buy the precut DIY kit for a single door. How many sheets did you need to cover your double door?
When I priced mine out it did turn out cheaper to buy the large panels, though when I priced them out I was comparing to the price of the pre-cut kits sold at my hardware store, not amazon. Kit's like these: amzn.to/2xaoKf8 look like a great option.
Be careful if you purchase the kit ... it is made for 4-panel (8 - 2’ x 4’ sections) garage doors, and many doors have 5 panels. I bought a kit for my son’s garage, but because it has 5 panels, I would end up with a bunch a scraps pieced together on two of the 10 sections. I wound up returning the kit, and will do what was done here.
My panels are all different sizes, so the precut kits were untenable.
Will this work on a wood garage door and on wood framing walls?
Thanks
it would, but you may also want to take a look at reflective barrier for that situation.
What thickness boards did you use 1/2" or 1"? Thanks
I used 1”, but double check what will fit in your door.
DoItYourselfDad thank you!
Thank you! I was looking for good explanation !
Where do I click to find the insulation you purchased
For the large sheets you'd be better off getting it from a local hardware store, it will be much cheaper. If you are looking for a precut kit check these out: amzn.to/2Vf8KXi
Did you have to replace the door springs to compensate for extra weight?
Nope, not that much added weight.
Door springs can be adjusted to compensate for any added weight. Have a garage door service do the adjustment, the springs are very dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing.
Isn't the R-TEC Insulfoam flammable, or are there different types of Insulfoam? When I was looking at an R-TEC Insulfoam at Home Depot the kind they carried said "combustible" and then I read reviews and many people said this was not to be used on garage doors because of the heat factor. I bought a small piece and took it home and lit it with a lighter in my fire pit and sure enough it burned pretty quick.
can you still open the door without damaging the foam?
Yes
My garage door don’t have those lips/metal ribs to hold the insulations. Any ideas what I can do to hold the insulations? Do you recommend using foam board adhesive?
I’d look construction adhesive, something that will also adhere to the metal door.
DoItYourselfDad alright thank you!!!
Use Super 77 spray adhesive. You will have to spray the foil side as the glue will melt the foam. This works perfectly
What is saving on energy bill?
I'm not sure, our garage doesn't have a living space above it so we're not affected by that. I did this more for comfort in the garage and it made a huge difference in the summer.
Just to ask for completeness.......are your garage walls and ceiling insulated? I wish to do this in my SC home, but the existing garage walls and attic above are not insulated. BUT.....I have the same issue of the door getting very hot from the sun beating on it...and would like that affect minimized.
The walls were insulated, the ceiling wasn’t. I used radiant barrier on the ceiling. We also installed a 220 heater and an AC in the garage as well. Check out my other videos, I’ve got videos on all of it. The door was the first thing I did and it made a huge difference as my door faces the setting sun and gets baked in the afternoon.
@@DoItYourselfDad ...thanks for the updated info.....
A year later and you still have the little wedged pieces that were to hold the panels in place while the glue set. Is it cause the door gets so hot the glue melts?
Honestly..... I’m lazy and forgot to remove them. 😂
What if your garage door doesnt have bays & there’s no frame for the foam to slide into?
There are probably covers on the bays, poke around and see if you can find screws or rivits.
how do i fix the space between the insulation and the metal? Thanks
If it’s sealed around the edges you really don’t have to worry about it.
Sealed air space IS added insulation
Your suicide vents will allow much heat/cold into your garage. Hence, what’s the point insulating the garage door?
You reduced the emissive heat, not the radiant heat. Still, better than a plain door, specially in So. Cal.
I'm trying better insulate my garage. I pretty much did exactly this and am going to follow your video on air conditioner installation.
But my crawl space above my garage doesn't have insulation under the decking, should I add that or should I leave the ceiling un insulated?
Do you already have insulation or radiant barrier on the roof?
@@DoItYourselfDad no, I don't believe so. House was made in the 80's. Would adding a radiant barrier to the underside of the roof help?
How does that affect the garage door when you go to open it?
No issues at all.
How thick is insulation
I think mine are 1.5 incheS
Does this help with sound insulation too?
It seemed to cut down what was coming in from the outside.
@@DoItYourselfDad would you say it by a lot? Or should I go for thicker insulation instead?
Helps a lot. My neighbor would run their bass high on their music and I couldn't work in the garage without my ears pounding. Then I added the insulation. worked wonders
What if the garagedoor has windows? Can thise be insulated ?
You can actually get an insulation film, kind of like window tinting that you can put on the little windows in your door. I had done that in our previous house.
soooo what is the temp on the wall now that the whole door is insulated. and what is the ambient temp?
It's at the end of the video: 4:15
Where did you get your R-Tech from?
It was either Home Depot or Lowes
@@DoItYourselfDad Thanks
I would have put the foil side outside is to have a more consistent clean look, all that writing and information on the product is just ugly
That paper backing peels off easily which would leave it flat white. It's an option for someone that did it this way.
The reflective side should face the heat source.... the door.... that and I'm not too worried about aesthetics in my garage.
@@DoItYourselfDad I don't know who to believe half the people say the foil should face inside others say outside dude to not being an air gap if u face it against the door.
@@DoItYourselfDad you said it didn’t matter because no air gap
@@CP-ux9zd There isn't a gap, but there are going to be gaps due to the shape of the door panels. The foil is a reflective battier, so you want it facing the heat source.
How many sheets of foam did your insulation require?
It's been a while, but if I'm remembering correctly I think it took two.
I was debating wether to spend the$ on an insulated Garage Door. I think I'll Save some money.
The exact reason we did ours!
Actually, the direction the reflective side faces does make a difference. Your garage space is the air gap and the reflective side should face the air. Just like radiant barrier sheathing for your roof. The plywood or OSB side faces the shingles (where there is no air gap) and the reflective side faces the air space of your attic.
Agreed. The reflective face should face the heat. It will reflect the IR back into the room. If it was facing the room that is.
It will also help to brighten the garage when closed same as reflective material on light housings.
@@RossWilliamsDC But isnt' the "Heat" the outside of the door? If you were installing in a cold climate and the purpose was to keep the garage warm, then facing the silver into the room would work but he's trying to keep the heat down, so he installed it correctly, I think, ha!
@Nobody Vapor You are correct
hows it holding up today?
Like a champ, still keeping the garage cool.
Can you still operate the garage door?
Yes, it only adds a few pounds to the door (5-8 lbs)
how much does it cost ?
Mine took three sheets of foam board, they run $12-$20 a board.
what about the big gaps on the sides?????
They make a vinyl trim kit for the outside of the door. Also DIY
By chance have you had to replace the garage door hinges? I have the same door but can't find a replacement hinge to save my life
The funny not funny thing about this is I did and it really makes my garage cooler but whenever I'm working in my garage, I like to open the door and the hot just comes right back in when I'm working, haha.
I prefer it open as well, but It was 107 out this last weekend, so closed and AC pumping it was!
I wonder if I could insulate my metal portable shed with it?
It should work, sounds like a great idea to me!
Foil is ALWAYS facing the heat...it makes all the difference.
Foil facing inside would looked 10x better and you should have used 1.5 inch thickness board and no glue would be required as it would fit nice and snug.
It’s not for looks. It’s to keep heat down. So foil has to be against door.
But…you can peel off the white lettering for a plain white appearance now. Which I did because looking at the labelling all over the garage door is really ugly.
Call me stupid my door doesn’t have the “gap” to tuck the insulation into. Help! 😎
Coming from someone who has jerry rigged a Sawzall blade to linesman pliers for a drywall saw (which works lol) please get a knife with a handle.
Got one with a handle, handle doesn’t let your get the blade completely though the foam..... plus, I’ve got 10 fingers, seems excessive.
@@DoItYourselfDad hahaha. I was thinking like kitchen knife style
I’ve noticed cutting this type of foam that anything less sharp than a razor blade causes it to crumble instead of cut cleanly.
Get a handle for the blade
Why don't you just buy insulated door?
If I was in the market to be buying a new door I absolutely would recommend just buying an insulated door. In my case we already had the door, just wanted insulation.
Does do it your self refer to cutting off your finger your self? Why in the hell would you not use a utility knife?
The blade length isn’t long enough to cut all the way through thicker foam when it’s inside the handle.
I cringed a little cutting bare handed with that razor blade
You lost me with, “I used a 2x4 for a straight edge”. Nothing straight about a 2x4. Additionally, the glue should have been applied in the middle of each panel as well as opposed to around the perimeter only.
The edges are going underneath a lip on the door, no need for perfection, once installed it will never be seen. In regards to the glue, there is no need to use that much of it.
I like the video, but I don’t like the look of your door now with all the words showing on the insulation. I would either get a brand that has no words on either side, or use the silver side showing out.
I agree, but the rest of my garage is usually a disaster of other projects so it doesn’t bother me much.