I honestly admire your exquisite workmanship. I just like the ProPress vs. soldering. Here in Wisconsin, I had a Bradford White water heater installed recently, with copper fittings connected to the water heater nipples, no dielectric fittings, and soldered to the copper pipes. This prevents me to be able to change the anode rod myself unless I own a torch and know how to solder. Is this a common procedure, up to code? Needless to say, the job was done by a master plumber.
Dude, shut the cold line off, drain the tank a bit, relieve the pressure, and cut the pipe. Use your pro press to reassemble using unions this time. Pretty quick job. Good luck.
Thats why using a flex hose connecting to the water heater will alleviate that problem. Besides a flex hose will allow some slight movement of the water heater without risking tearing off the solid copper pipes. This is by code in California due to the risk of earthquake.
I would use a 3/4" thread cutter to ream out the outlet thread. Due to corrosion, inevitably it would risk cross-threading when putting in a new anode rod. Cleaning up the threading will alleviate that problem.
I did not take anode rod for a long time. I am thinking of flushing water through for 3 fill-refill cycles in the tank to get all built-up calcium on the bottom. Also, think of putting vinegar and a 3-fill-refill cycle. What do you think?
I find its usually best to cut out the old shutoff valve and remove the copper that is in bad shape but that mightve been a bit more time than you had allocated for that job in the run of a day, we have all been there before. One slick trick to help free stuck dip tubes it to take an old 10" pipe wrench you dont care much about and flatten a long piece of 3/4" emt conduit onto it so it doesnt slip off. This will help you get a pile of leverage to break apart these old stuck fittings
I've had to use two people and tank full of water to break fittings loose in the past. I mean with 2' pipe wrench and cheater pipe (1.5" or 2" galvanized water line 3') I've also wrapped legs and one arm around the filled tank and used pipe wrench + cheater to break them free. very likely started to twist the bung and stress around the welds. they clearly used red or worse thread locking compound years ago, because back then I could break 1/2" pipe/fittings with 10" wrenches bare hand and also twist off screw drivers and screws like no tomorrow if not careful! just middle last year, I fingertip carried one end of a large heavy stone stair tread. loaded, unloaded and placed into mortar bed, about 430LBS total. Yes homeowner was asking, how are you going to carry and set that in place. afterwards said "git-r-done" and asked if he'd like to help lift, shim and mortar one end for level. nope
So true. I liked this brand for their open access to Service Manuals, (Compared to Rheem, whose service manuals are behind a contractor wall), but this anode rod has been a deal breaker for 2 reasons. 1. Clearance. Thing is nearly 4 foot long. Nobody has that kind of space above their already tall water heater. Much less if it is on a Stand in your garage. They don't have a sausage link version neither. 2. I wouldn't even disconnect the hot water compression fitting of my sink every year, because I fear it would deteriorate the connection and cause a leak. Let alone the Hot water connection to my entire house. That connection shouldn't be messed with for annual maintenance/inspection. Rheem and others like you mentioned aren't perfect, but they do Anode rods much better with their standardized sizes and flexible rod options.
@@bob_frazier Eastman is another company that makes the sausage type for tight spaces that match the Bradford white length. If it’s 10-15 years old and you didn’t have a whole house water filtration system including UV sterilizer with the carbon filter and iron and manganese filter combo. Plus never flushed or upgraded to 3/4 ball drain. Definitely plan on buying a new one.
Why use a nipple adapter coverting the outlet 3/4" to 1"....3/4" is more than enough for any residential housing. Besides when the upstream is 3/4" converting the downstream to 1" wouldn't give you any more water pressure or flow rate.
SODIUM will also erode things. That's all water softeners do--they replace magnesium/calcium with sodium. I never could understand the reasoning why people get soft water units because they still leave soap scum, and quite frankly I would not want to drink that kind of water. You would need special filters. It probably is toxic to plants too. I may be wrong but if you have copper or cast iron pipes they ARE going to erode your plumbing faster with SODIUM ions.
A proper working water softener should NEVER add sodium to the water! if it does, something is wrong with the unit or it's a clown company selling bad products.
@Supa Trending Daily it can happen if there's a water pressure loss when they're mid cycle and the softener is up higher than water supply (well of city supply) also if there's fixtures below the level of water softener and water heater, it can back siphon. there's a reason vacuum breakers, dual check valves and expansion tanks get installed most always these days. I've seen it happen plenty in mobile homes parks and other places without backflow prevention
@Supa Trending Daily municipal supplied water doesn't always mean clean and clear, it could be pumped from multiple ground wells which have many minerals are other safe things within, but wreak havoc on water heaters. change to aluminum anode, then if better but still present, try cranking the temperature way up, if it kills it(less bacteria), then add a thermostatic mixing valve to temper it down. both or neither may work depending on how bad the water is. that's pretty much into water quality sample and testing, it could need large whole house/building carbon filter, chemical oxidizer or oxidizer filter and other filtration.
I've learned to apply tape, smash it into threads hard, then dope overtop that for lube. with use junk or all of today's poorly cast material with junk threads. I hate leaks and would rather spend 10 minutes making sure it doesn't leak vs 10 minutes to hours reworking while looking like a dummy with water spurting all over :)
I have a call out to a plumber right now, asking him if replacing my anode is worth it, since my water heater, in this new house we moved into out here, is six years old. What's your opinion? Should I see about replacing it, or is it even worth it?
@@MiHeatingGuy Six years. I meant to call a plumber about it years ago, but, I just kept forgetting to call. Also, since I'm new to California, I don't really know plumbers out here who do that type of work. But, I have one in mind now.
@@MiHeatingGuy Oh, sorry, I thought I answered this yesterday, right after you asked. It is six years old, same year that the house was built. Oh, I see above, I said six months old. Duh! Rough weekend.
How old was anode and why replaced? Odor in water or just preventive maintenance? I think we have a similar BW model water heater and am looking to change the rod before tank goes.
I live in an area with large amounts of minerals in the water. Just replaced a 5 year old water heater where anode rusted through completely and inside of the tank started to rust. It was only 5 years old... Plumber told me that in my area, anode should be replaced after 3 years, as they don’t last much longer than that here.
Thanks man. Changed both out yesterday. Great video and a huge help. Nightmare to get them both out but it worked. I forwarded your video to some friends who are getting ready to change them both out as well.
It is 3/4", but for some reasons if you watch the video, they have a 3/4" to 1" converter which oesn't make sense. The outlet is 3/4" and even if they use a 2" connector downstream would have no bearing on the water pressure at all.
Depends on your manufacturer. Manufacturers like Bradford White or State only want their units installed by plumbing professionals, so those would have to be purchased directly from a local plumbing supply house or you can buy them online. Rheem can be purchased at Home Depot, AO Smith @ Lowes, etc. Just check your manufacturer. If you want to buy online, check out supplyhouse dot com.
Another skimpy penny pinching idea to use plastic tube for the down tube. Its almost like the brand wants all the parts to disintegrate so that you will buy a new water heater.
This is the only video that mentions replacing the dip tube. Great info!
I honestly admire your exquisite workmanship. I just like the ProPress vs. soldering. Here in Wisconsin, I had a Bradford White water heater installed recently, with copper fittings connected to the water heater nipples, no dielectric fittings, and soldered to the copper pipes. This prevents me to be able to change the anode rod myself unless I own a torch and know how to solder. Is this a common procedure, up to code? Needless to say, the job was done by a master plumber.
That is because your installer didn’t want to spend the money on unions…..😅
Dude, shut the cold line off, drain the tank a bit, relieve the pressure, and cut the pipe. Use your pro press to reassemble using unions this time. Pretty quick job. Good luck.
Thats why using a flex hose connecting to the water heater will alleviate that problem. Besides a flex hose will allow some slight movement of the water heater without risking tearing off the solid copper pipes. This is by code in California due to the risk of earthquake.
I would use a 3/4" thread cutter to ream out the outlet thread. Due to corrosion, inevitably it would risk cross-threading when putting in a new anode rod. Cleaning up the threading will alleviate that problem.
I did not take anode rod for a long time. I am thinking of flushing water through for 3 fill-refill cycles in the tank to get all built-up calcium on the bottom. Also, think of putting vinegar and a 3-fill-refill cycle. What do you think?
I find its usually best to cut out the old shutoff valve and remove the copper that is in bad shape but that mightve been a bit more time than you had allocated for that job in the run of a day, we have all been there before. One slick trick to help free stuck dip tubes it to take an old 10" pipe wrench you dont care much about and flatten a long piece of 3/4" emt conduit onto it so it doesnt slip off. This will help you get a pile of leverage to break apart these old stuck fittings
Yes, I would replace it with a ball valve.
I've had to use two people and tank full of water to break fittings loose in the past. I mean with 2' pipe wrench and cheater pipe (1.5" or 2" galvanized water line 3') I've also wrapped legs and one arm around the filled tank and used pipe wrench + cheater to break them free. very likely started to twist the bung and stress around the welds.
they clearly used red or worse thread locking compound years ago, because back then I could break 1/2" pipe/fittings with 10" wrenches bare hand and also twist off screw drivers and screws like no tomorrow if not careful!
just middle last year, I fingertip carried one end of a large heavy stone stair tread. loaded, unloaded and placed into mortar bed, about 430LBS total. Yes homeowner was asking, how are you going to carry and set that in place. afterwards said "git-r-done" and asked if he'd like to help lift, shim and mortar one end for level. nope
This teaches me to leave the water heater until it leaks replace it with a different brand that uses a non proprietary standalone anode rod.
So true. I liked this brand for their open access to Service Manuals, (Compared to Rheem, whose service manuals are behind a contractor wall), but this anode rod has been a deal breaker for 2 reasons.
1. Clearance. Thing is nearly 4 foot long. Nobody has that kind of space above their already tall water heater. Much less if it is on a Stand in your garage. They don't have a sausage link version neither.
2. I wouldn't even disconnect the hot water compression fitting of my sink every year, because I fear it would deteriorate the connection and cause a leak. Let alone the Hot water connection to my entire house. That connection shouldn't be messed with for annual maintenance/inspection.
Rheem and others like you mentioned aren't perfect, but they do Anode rods much better with their standardized sizes and flexible rod options.
@@subinct Don, Blue Lightning offers a sausage rod in a variety of metals for these nipple anodes, but I agree, another brand for me next time too.
You got that right….
I called a plumber, they wanted $500 for this …..lol
@@bob_frazier Eastman is another company that makes the sausage type for tight spaces that match the Bradford white length. If it’s 10-15 years old and you didn’t have a whole house water filtration system including UV sterilizer with the carbon filter and iron and manganese filter combo. Plus never flushed or upgraded to 3/4 ball drain. Definitely plan on buying a new one.
Can I go with any brand name anode rod?
Why use a nipple adapter coverting the outlet 3/4" to 1"....3/4" is more than enough for any residential housing. Besides when the upstream is 3/4" converting the downstream to 1" wouldn't give you any more water pressure or flow rate.
Is that dip tube, PEX pipe? And do they sell them with the nipple already?
I never could get to the anode rod. It's absolutely STUCK -- you have a lot of muscle to do that.
I’m no expert by any means but why not use a socket wrench and breaker bar to remove those petrified nuts?
So you don't have to replace the copper piping every time?
Is that the 3 in head on the anode rod?
Do you need to take those out when you have a water softener? Great video
No you need to replace them more often
SODIUM will also erode things. That's all water softeners do--they replace magnesium/calcium with sodium. I never could understand the reasoning why people get soft water units because they still leave soap scum, and quite frankly I would not want to drink that kind of water. You would need special filters. It probably is toxic to plants too. I may be wrong but if you have copper or cast iron pipes they ARE going to erode your plumbing faster with SODIUM ions.
A proper working water softener should NEVER add sodium to the water! if it does, something is wrong with the unit or it's a clown company selling bad products.
@Supa Trending Daily it can happen if there's a water pressure loss when they're mid cycle and the softener is up higher than water supply (well of city supply) also if there's fixtures below the level of water softener and water heater, it can back siphon. there's a reason vacuum breakers, dual check valves and expansion tanks get installed most always these days.
I've seen it happen plenty in mobile homes parks and other places without backflow prevention
@Supa Trending Daily municipal supplied water doesn't always mean clean and clear, it could be pumped from multiple ground wells which have many minerals are other safe things within, but wreak havoc on water heaters.
change to aluminum anode, then if better but still present, try cranking the temperature way up, if it kills it(less bacteria), then add a thermostatic mixing valve to temper it down. both or neither may work depending on how bad the water is.
that's pretty much into water quality sample and testing, it could need large whole house/building carbon filter, chemical oxidizer or oxidizer filter and other filtration.
I've learned to apply tape, smash it into threads hard, then dope overtop that for lube. with use junk or all of today's poorly cast material with junk threads. I hate leaks and would rather spend 10 minutes making sure it doesn't leak vs 10 minutes to hours reworking while looking like a dummy with water spurting all over :)
I can dig it Big Dogg.LIKE.
Really good vid. Good content. Thank you.
Do you not cut the new tube to length ?
I was thinking the same thing. I think that was the problem he had in screwing it together again because it was a bit too long.
I have a call out to a plumber right now, asking him if replacing my anode is worth it, since my water heater, in this new house we moved into out here, is six years old. What's your opinion? Should I see about replacing it, or is it even worth it?
How old is the water heater
@@MiHeatingGuy Six years. I meant to call a plumber about it years ago, but, I just kept forgetting to call. Also, since I'm new to California, I don't really know plumbers out here who do that type of work. But, I have one in mind now.
@@MiHeatingGuy Oh, sorry, I thought I answered this yesterday, right after you asked. It is six years old, same year that the house was built. Oh, I see above, I said six months old. Duh! Rough weekend.
It's about time to check the Anode rod
@@MiHeatingGuy Thanks, I'll give Peter Levi a call this morning. Loved your mini-split video from yesterday.
A driver wrench is your friend
How old was anode and why replaced? Odor in water or just preventive maintenance? I think we have a similar BW model water heater and am looking to change the rod before tank goes.
I live in an area with large amounts of minerals in the water. Just replaced a 5 year old water heater where anode rusted through completely and inside of the tank started to rust. It was only 5 years old... Plumber told me that in my area, anode should be replaced after 3 years, as they don’t last much longer than that here.
Is that a 3/4" for the diptube and anode rod on a Bradford white?
Thanks man. Changed both out yesterday. Great video and a huge help. Nightmare to get them both out but it worked. I forwarded your video to some friends who are getting ready to change them both out as well.
@@CleveIndians did you buy exact parts from Bradford or just pick up generic parts for. Home Depot of Loews ?
@@justinloos1286 sorry man...read that wrong. I bought generic parts. They were much cheaper
It is 3/4", but for some reasons if you watch the video, they have a 3/4" to 1" converter which oesn't make sense. The outlet is 3/4" and even if they use a 2" connector downstream would have no bearing on the water pressure at all.
Where do you get the Dip Tube replacement ?
Depends on your manufacturer. Manufacturers like Bradford White or State only want their units installed by plumbing professionals, so those would have to be purchased directly from a local plumbing supply house or you can buy them online. Rheem can be purchased at Home Depot, AO Smith @ Lowes, etc. Just check your manufacturer. If you want to buy online, check out supplyhouse dot com.
For a gas or electric water heater
Bro its got a vent on it. Did you even watch the video
Needed on both
@@MiHeatingGuy also a bot comment ed remove the comment
Personally, I like to use explosives.
Another skimpy penny pinching idea to use plastic tube for the down tube. Its almost like the brand wants all the parts to disintegrate so that you will buy a new water heater.
Elephant in a China shop …..😂
Ok
999.99