I agree with everything you said Jake. Invaluable for touch ups. My experience with a similar concept Henckel sharpener on our Henckel knives was that after years of only using this carbide sharpener the edge started to develop waves much like those ripples or pot holes on gravel roads. After correcting the sharpened edge my sharpener still works great. I think your recommendation for light pressure is especially good advice to minimize issues from inconsistencies in steel hardness along the edge.
Hi Jake - what you said at around 4:30 about paper being rolled is absolutely correct, and it's not sufficiently appreciated by people doing paper-cutting sharpness tests. Here's the reason: Nearly all mass-produced paper these days is made from wood pulp (yes, you can get fancy hand-made cotton rag paper for art projects etc). The wood is pulped into a mass of cellulose fibres, which are then rolled out under very high pressure to produce paper, which comes out in a long roll and is then cut to size. The cellulose fibres align themselves under pressure in the direction of the rolling, and this means that paper has a grain pattern, similar to the wood that it's made from. Anyone who has worked with wood knows about the difference between cutting along the grain and across the grain, and you get the same effect when cutting paper with knives or scissors! The grain of paper usually runs parallel to the longest edge, but not always - it depends on how the paper has been cut from the roll. Paper which has been printed on and then cut after printing is quite often different from precut sheets likestandard A4 printer paper. Hope this is useful info - it deserves to be more widely known.
I agree but not in the absolute sense. There are some folks out there who cannot sharpen anything - even if their life depended on it. I try to make videos show that even those people CAN learn if they invest some time. The thing knife newbies need to learn is to maintain the edge regularly and not wait until the edge is trashed before they do edge maintenance
They are the same in the angles that you get, so they are the same in terms of how good they are for your knife. the D-Sharp has diamond in the sharpening components and so it is better for the new super steels, the ones that have a Rockwell hardness over 60. C= regular carbon steel knives and budget stainless steel knives. D = new super stainless steels. If you have the super stainless steels they will still get treated well with the C-Sharp, it will merely take longer to do maintenance on your knife on those steels than it would if you had the D-Sharp. In either case, never force the knife through by pushing down on the knife. Always do light passes regardless of which Lansky you have. Now if you have budget stainless or carbon steel and you have the D-Sharp then make sure to pull the knives through even more lightly than you do with your super steels.
Mostly due to the diamond rod that is in the BladeMedic. That part of the tool is VERY helpful and not only for serrations. But also because the Blade Medic has a carbide sharpener - now I did poo-poo carbide in this video but that is only because most guys use much to much force with carbide sharpener part and then destroy their knives, but when used properly (after learning via destroying many blades) the carbide can be useful in the field if a knife has a major problem. Blade chipout can take forever to work away with just ceramic. I don't recommend the QuadSharp because it has only carbide, which in my opinion should only be used for significant repairs and not for finish sharpening. I hope that makes sense.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge I agree, Jake - I can't see the point of the C-Sharp unless you have a load of knives that you want to give different edge angles to, and seriously, how many people are sharpening to a 17 degree angle out in the field? 20 degrees is far and away the most common edge angle, and the other three V-slots aren't going to see much use unless you have an axe with you that needs 30 degrees. The Blade Medic is much more versatile, and I wouldn't be without that diamond rod. It'd be nice if you could get the Blade Medic in hi-vis orange like this, though!
what is the difference between the ceramic and the diamond rod? Also how do you choose which sharpening angle to use? Is it just by sight? Finally what would you suggest as the next portable sharpening system to carry around (in terms of size, weight)?
Angle choice comes from experience. 20° is generally used for EDC type knives like the vast majority of what I review on this channel and outdoor fixed blades like hunting knives. Kitchen knives usually have angles smaller than 20° and tools like hatchets and axes etc are 30° or more. Ceramic is often used to get a very fine cutting edge. The diamond rod on the Lansky BladeMedic is used mostly for sharpening serrations. If you have a ceramic and diamond rod that is not tapered then generally the diamond is for doing a lot of sharpening quicky and the ceramic for giving it a nice finish. BUT Diamond rods, like ceramic rods, can come in a variety of grits, and both are for doing fast steel removal when the grit is low and for doing final finishing when the stone has a high grit. So diamond and ceramic are somewhat interchangeable if they are the same grit, but diamond can be made at almost any grit and ceramic is only made (for the commercial market) at the higher grits. I know that this explanation is FAR from complete or exhaustive, that would take a book, but I do hope that helps at least a little bit.
Is the average degree angle 20° for a pocket knife? I have a Spyderco Enduro 4 and was curious when it gets dull. Do I use the 20, 25 or 30? Thanks for the video
20° is super common and it was an angle that people settled on decades ago. BUT, steel has gotten a lot better over the last 20 years (mostly stainless steel has improved a lot) and the better steels can easily handle angles a bit lower than that and still have great rates of durability of the edge. The angle has so many variables, the main things to consider are: 1. quality of steel. 2. purpose of the blade 3. shape of the blade (mostly thinness of the edge). Those 3 things (mostly) combined tell me what angle I want to put on a given knife.
D-sharp? I've not heard of that. I have reviewed the Blade Medic here- ruclips.net/video/xCjdLZwNsTI/видео.html The Quad Sharp here: ruclips.net/video/rze7G5_WAOU/видео.html Of all these types of tools I like the Blade Medic best, by far.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge D-Sharp is green in colour and has 600 grit diamond cutters, otherwise it's identical to the C-sharp & Quad. This would round off your reviews and comparison. Nudge nudge... wink wink!
Interesting. I usually don't get good results using these pull-through type sharpeners. It seems like I always get a pronounced burr on one side of the blade. I've always attributed this to the fact that there is no good way to change which side of the knife is sharpened last and to remove the burr. Then again, what do I know. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. I'd really like to find one of these pull-through sharpeners that has two different slots for the same angle & sharpening media. That way the positioning of the sharpening media could be alternated. So say in the first slot the sharpening media closest to you does the right side of the blade last and in the second slot the sharpening media closest to you does the left side of the blade. That way you can alternate which side is sharpened last and remove the burr without needing to use a stone/rod.
There is a knack to using them. Sounds like you are holding your knife on just a bit of an angle to one side consistently. No one system works for everyone, maybe a different system is better for you. Suggestion: You can turn the unit around in your hand, that way you are using the opposite side of the same slot. That might work for you.
Jake, thank you for the reply. Regarding the burr and holding the knife at an angle, it is possible. I try to center the blade in the sharpener but maybe I've not got it centered perfectly. I've tried flipping the sharpener around to use the opposite side before. That actually doesn't work. If you try it what happens is the sharpening rods wind up in the same orientation regardless of which side you turn it. That is why I mentioned I'd like to find a sharpener with two slots with the order of the rods alternated for the same media/grit. When I sharpen by hand I normally use a fine diamond stone to do most of the work. If I want it really sharp I finish it off with a 1000-grit, synthetic water stone. If I have a bunch of knives to sharpen, it is a cheap knife that I don't care about, or I just can't get it sharp by hand (and I've run into a few of those over the years) I'll break out the Worksharp and use the 220-grit and 6000-grit belts. The Worksharp tends to round the points a bit unless I'm very careful but it puts a pretty good edge on quickly.
If you mean which of their pocket sharpeners: I don't know for certain, but it might be the one I have not yet reviewed - the D Sharp is very appealing: lansky.com/index.php/products/d-sharp/ But if you mean from any Lansky sharpeners then definitely their "Controlled Angle" series are good, get whichever one you can find, but get the diamond version if you have premium pocket knives with very hard steel. At the top of this page they list the 7 different kits they make of them - lansky.com/precision-sharpening-kits/
It was a long time ago, I think I found it on amazon, but not totally sure. This might be the same stuff: amzn.to/38akO0u Search for light shock cord 3mm or 1/8"
There is a knack to it and its not always easy to learn. A classic mistake people make is to put too much pressure when drawing the knife through and the next mistake is to not spend enough time doing it. This is a long slow process, as it is intended more for touchups and not really for re-sharpening a knife, but if that's all you have then with patience a knife can indeed be fully sharpened with one of these.
Please, explain how this ceramic sharpener destroys edges. It is easy to destroy edges with carbide sharpeners like the QuadSharp, and I say so in this video, but how does the ceramic sharpener do that when my instructions in this video are followed?
@@realmetis8002 if you're not careful any sharpener can destroy a blade. Im learning knife sharpening and ive ruined quite a few blades even with stones. Than goodness i have some crapy cheap knifes to train on
I agree with everything you said Jake. Invaluable for touch ups. My experience with a similar concept Henckel sharpener on our Henckel knives was that after years of only using this carbide sharpener the edge started to develop waves much like those ripples or pot holes on gravel roads. After correcting the sharpened edge my sharpener still works great. I think your recommendation for light pressure is especially good advice to minimize issues from inconsistencies in steel hardness along the edge.
Hi Jake - what you said at around 4:30 about paper being rolled is absolutely correct, and it's not sufficiently appreciated by people doing paper-cutting sharpness tests. Here's the reason:
Nearly all mass-produced paper these days is made from wood pulp (yes, you can get fancy hand-made cotton rag paper for art projects etc). The wood is pulped into a mass of cellulose fibres, which are then rolled out under very high pressure to produce paper, which comes out in a long roll and is then cut to size. The cellulose fibres align themselves under pressure in the direction of the rolling, and this means that paper has a grain pattern, similar to the wood that it's made from. Anyone who has worked with wood knows about the difference between cutting along the grain and across the grain, and you get the same effect when cutting paper with knives or scissors! The grain of paper usually runs parallel to the longest edge, but not always - it depends on how the paper has been cut from the roll. Paper which has been printed on and then cut after printing is quite often different from precut sheets likestandard A4 printer paper. Hope this is useful info - it deserves to be more widely known.
Indeed. Thanks for this.
Great review. I don't want to make a career out of sharpening a knife. Never had much luck with the "Sharpmaker". I just purchased a C sharp.
Will definitely get you a useable working edge out in the field as long as your edge isn't completely trashed.
I agree but not in the absolute sense. There are some folks out there who cannot sharpen anything - even if their life depended on it. I try to make videos show that even those people CAN learn if they invest some time. The thing knife newbies need to learn is to maintain the edge regularly and not wait until the edge is trashed before they do edge maintenance
Canadian Cutting Edge yeah it's always going to come down to the user. I was just saying that the product itself is capable of doing the job.
Good review Jake. Thanks for sharing. Tony
What’s the difference between Lansky C-Sharp and D-Sharp pull through? Wondering which one is better for my knives, thanks in advance 👏🏻
They are the same in the angles that you get, so they are the same in terms of how good they are for your knife. the D-Sharp has diamond in the sharpening components and so it is better for the new super steels, the ones that have a Rockwell hardness over 60. C= regular carbon steel knives and budget stainless steel knives. D = new super stainless steels.
If you have the super stainless steels they will still get treated well with the C-Sharp, it will merely take longer to do maintenance on your knife on those steels than it would if you had the D-Sharp.
In either case, never force the knife through by pushing down on the knife. Always do light passes regardless of which Lansky you have.
Now if you have budget stainless or carbon steel and you have the D-Sharp then make sure to pull the knives through even more lightly than you do with your super steels.
Thanks man, I’m ordering the C!
👍🏻
Hope you enjoy it!
This sharpener seems pretty good if you were on the go or in the field. I am curious though why do you like the blade medic more..?
Mostly due to the diamond rod that is in the BladeMedic. That part of the tool is VERY helpful and not only for serrations. But also because the Blade Medic has a carbide sharpener - now I did poo-poo carbide in this video but that is only because most guys use much to much force with carbide sharpener part and then destroy their knives, but when used properly (after learning via destroying many blades) the carbide can be useful in the field if a knife has a major problem. Blade chipout can take forever to work away with just ceramic. I don't recommend the QuadSharp because it has only carbide, which in my opinion should only be used for significant repairs and not for finish sharpening.
I hope that makes sense.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge thanks for answering this
@@CanadianCuttingEdge I agree, Jake - I can't see the point of the C-Sharp unless you have a load of knives that you want to give different edge angles to, and seriously, how many people are sharpening to a 17 degree angle out in the field? 20 degrees is far and away the most common edge angle, and the other three V-slots aren't going to see much use unless you have an axe with you that needs 30 degrees. The Blade Medic is much more versatile, and I wouldn't be without that diamond rod. It'd be nice if you could get the Blade Medic in hi-vis orange like this, though!
Use a cheap cereal cardbord and some green compond. Will help fill the roughness and make it little sharper. Strop
what is the difference between the ceramic and the diamond rod? Also how do you choose which sharpening angle to use? Is it just by sight? Finally what would you suggest as the next portable sharpening system to carry around (in terms of size, weight)?
Angle choice comes from experience. 20° is generally used for EDC type knives like the vast majority of what I review on this channel and outdoor fixed blades like hunting knives. Kitchen knives usually have angles smaller than 20° and tools like hatchets and axes etc are 30° or more.
Ceramic is often used to get a very fine cutting edge.
The diamond rod on the Lansky BladeMedic is used mostly for sharpening serrations.
If you have a ceramic and diamond rod that is not tapered then generally the diamond is for doing a lot of sharpening quicky and the ceramic for giving it a nice finish. BUT Diamond rods, like ceramic rods, can come in a variety of grits, and both are for doing fast steel removal when the grit is low and for doing final finishing when the stone has a high grit.
So diamond and ceramic are somewhat interchangeable if they are the same grit, but diamond can be made at almost any grit and ceramic is only made (for the commercial market) at the higher grits.
I know that this explanation is FAR from complete or exhaustive, that would take a book, but I do hope that helps at least a little bit.
Is the average degree angle 20° for a pocket knife? I have a Spyderco Enduro 4 and was curious when it gets dull. Do I use the 20, 25 or 30? Thanks for the video
20° is super common and it was an angle that people settled on decades ago. BUT, steel has gotten a lot better over the last 20 years (mostly stainless steel has improved a lot) and the better steels can easily handle angles a bit lower than that and still have great rates of durability of the edge.
The angle has so many variables, the main things to consider are:
1. quality of steel.
2. purpose of the blade
3. shape of the blade (mostly thinness of the edge).
Those 3 things (mostly) combined tell me what angle I want to put on a given knife.
I see the Lionsteel Rock have come up with a flush mounted pocket clip that opens up when you need it
I knew I should have trademarked that idea
I
Acetone works great for cleaning ceramic
Great tip!
Do a review on the Sharp D
Maybe. To be honest I didn't even know about the "D-Sharp" - It looks like it would be a better sharpener than this thing.
Thanks Jake#
Can you do a review of the lansky d-sharp, comparing with the Quad and c-sharp please?
D-sharp? I've not heard of that.
I have reviewed the Blade Medic here- ruclips.net/video/xCjdLZwNsTI/видео.html
The Quad Sharp here: ruclips.net/video/rze7G5_WAOU/видео.html
Of all these types of tools I like the Blade Medic best, by far.
@@CanadianCuttingEdge D-Sharp is green in colour and has 600 grit diamond cutters, otherwise it's identical to the C-sharp & Quad. This would round off your reviews and comparison. Nudge nudge... wink wink!
Can i use the lansky C sharp, blade medic and quad for big blades like machettes?
Wher can I buy in the UK the ceramic(carbide) replacement inserts for the c-sharp and quad, please?
Hopefully someone from the UK will know the answer, I am sorry but I don't know.
I would sit for 2hours and do this and turn on the tv
Then it’s probably gonna be razer sharp
I watch tv and sharpen mine. Works!!
I think it's great and cheap too.
It is good. I just like the Lansky Blade Medic more. for about the same price.
i have a Blade Medic also. thanks, Jake.
Interesting. I usually don't get good results using these pull-through type sharpeners. It seems like I always get a pronounced burr on one side of the blade. I've always attributed this to the fact that there is no good way to change which side of the knife is sharpened last and to remove the burr. Then again, what do I know. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
I'd really like to find one of these pull-through sharpeners that has two different slots for the same angle & sharpening media. That way the positioning of the sharpening media could be alternated. So say in the first slot the sharpening media closest to you does the right side of the blade last and in the second slot the sharpening media closest to you does the left side of the blade. That way you can alternate which side is sharpened last and remove the burr without needing to use a stone/rod.
There is a knack to using them. Sounds like you are holding your knife on just a bit of an angle to one side consistently. No one system works for everyone, maybe a different system is better for you. Suggestion: You can turn the unit around in your hand, that way you are using the opposite side of the same slot. That might work for you.
Jake, thank you for the reply.
Regarding the burr and holding the knife at an angle, it is possible. I try to center the blade in the sharpener but maybe I've not got it centered perfectly.
I've tried flipping the sharpener around to use the opposite side before. That actually doesn't work. If you try it what happens is the sharpening rods wind up in the same orientation regardless of which side you turn it. That is why I mentioned I'd like to find a sharpener with two slots with the order of the rods alternated for the same media/grit.
When I sharpen by hand I normally use a fine diamond stone to do most of the work. If I want it really sharp I finish it off with a 1000-grit, synthetic water stone. If I have a bunch of knives to sharpen, it is a cheap knife that I don't care about, or I just can't get it sharp by hand (and I've run into a few of those over the years) I'll break out the Worksharp and use the 220-grit and 6000-grit belts. The Worksharp tends to round the points a bit unless I'm very careful but it puts a pretty good edge on quickly.
Which of Lansky's sharpeners do you recommend up to 30$?
I'll be getting Karambit with steel 440 and I'm not sure which one should I choose
If you mean which of their pocket sharpeners: I don't know for certain, but it might be the one I have not yet reviewed - the D Sharp is very appealing: lansky.com/index.php/products/d-sharp/
But if you mean from any Lansky sharpeners then definitely their "Controlled Angle" series are good, get whichever one you can find, but get the diamond version if you have premium pocket knives with very hard steel. At the top of this page they list the 7 different kits they make of them - lansky.com/precision-sharpening-kits/
@@CanadianCuttingEdge Thanks, also is turn box series good for karambits? I'm looking for sharpener that won't damage 3Cr13 steel
Where did you get that bungee cord?
It was a long time ago, I think I found it on amazon, but not totally sure.
This might be the same stuff: amzn.to/38akO0u
Search for light shock cord 3mm or 1/8"
i use 30 on my machete
I got the D sharp with diamond and my knife is still dull
There is a knack to it and its not always easy to learn. A classic mistake people make is to put too much pressure when drawing the knife through and the next mistake is to not spend enough time doing it. This is a long slow process, as it is intended more for touchups and not really for re-sharpening a knife, but if that's all you have then with patience a knife can indeed be fully sharpened with one of these.
👍
Benchmade 162 Bushcraft is 30degree...
Okay. thanks.
sorry but i hate those systems if you want to destroy a blade edge just use one of those ps thanks for the review all the same
Please, explain how this ceramic sharpener destroys edges. It is easy to destroy edges with carbide sharpeners like the QuadSharp, and I say so in this video, but how does the ceramic sharpener do that when my instructions in this video are followed?
Good if you don't know how to sharpen lol
@Harry Daniels im not the One that needs little gadgets to sharpen my knives....say what you will my answer stands lol
@Harry Daniels im not big on micro bevels on my scandi grind and my convex blades......you staring to understand now 🤣🤣🤣🤣lol i didn't think so
@@realmetis8002 if you're not careful any sharpener can destroy a blade. Im learning knife sharpening and ive ruined quite a few blades even with stones. Than goodness i have some crapy cheap knifes to train on