Thank you for this video. My door speakers are the exact same as yours. I had mine for about 2 years now. Make sure the Jumpers inside the cross over is secure. After shutting my door a few times after install they came loose and caused noise to pop in and out in my tweeter. I thought the tweeter was bad. I have a My08 Legacy 3.0r. using Wavtech for signal to my amps. I agree with you that the polk can use a little more mid bass but my sub over powers it so its not too much of a problem with mine. Tweeters are piercing. =D
Because in Japan the steering wheel is on the other side so the diagram your reading is for a right hand drive legacy lucky for us in Australia we share the same side 😊 love your work by the way bro
Cool that's a good point, didn't consider that could be a RHD/LHD difference. You guys in Australia get it easy trying to upgrade your Liberties! Thanks
I found that the tweeters in the stock location were way too obnoxious, but it could be because they were Alpines that were installed previously. I almost went with coaxial speakers but am probably going to make the move for the Polks, glad I found someone with the same car as me for comparison
Hey so did you encounter any problems with the battery and alternator from the double din/ speaker/ amp/ subwoofer upgrade ? it looks like alot of extra power so just wondering
So if I have an aftermarket head unit already would I still need a crossover if I just wanted to replace the factory speakers with something a little bit better? Great Video, I really like that it’s a walkthrough it’s hard to find good informative vids on these cars.
Thanks for the comment. If you have an aftermarket headunit chances are it's already capable of electronically crossing over the speakers, look in your audio settings somewhere. That said, you don't need a crossover if you don't have a subwoofer since they should be playing their full range. What you should be more concerned about is how much power your speakers need. You want to be able to give them the upper 2/3rd of their power rating RMS to get the best dynamics out of them.
Hi brother i am looking to upgrade my factory speaker into polk db+ component speakers is it still Worth a upgrade? I do have a polk device at home which i am a big fan of . So please let me know how the performance is .
RP. Thank you for the video. I’m currently installing the exact speakers in my 2005 as well. I read your update and are you saying instead of installing the tweeters in the stock location, install them on the side mirror housing (the triangle part) that sits right above the door card ? Is this correct ??
Yes that's right. I suggest before you reinstall everything, sit in the car, hold the tweeter in each of those positions and play some music. I found the highs to be clearer when I put it in the top position. Instead of cutting into the triangles (which is an option) I bought some of the tweeter housings from a JDM model online, pulled out the stock tweeters and put my own in there. Lots of work but very OEM appearance. The housings were about $75 all in from a seller I found on ebay. You'll still get a good result with them in the regular location but if you want to go the distance that's how I did it.
Useful video, thanks, but there is an error. He says the audio signal (from the head unit) goes the tweeter, which then "processes it" and sends it on to the lower speaker; so he cuts that signal where it goes into the tweeter and uses that as the input to the crossover. That will work. But there's no processing in the tweeter. The signal from the HU is simply connected to the wires that go down to the lower speaker (that's why there are 4 wires going into the tweeter connector). So you could just as easily drive the crossover from the wires that go to the lower speaker, and just leave the tweeter connector dangling. I think the way the video does it is cleaner, and that's what I did, but the way he describes it is misleading.
Have you tested the signal that goes to the tweeter and the signal that comes from it? How do you know there's no processing? Unless you've done that there's no guarantee that the signal that goes to the tweeter is the same as the signal that comes from it and that means what you're saying is misleading. This is stock wiring, the tweeter could very easily be set up with a built in filter to prevent higher frequencies from going to the woofer without indicating that anywhere. Regardless, there are a million ways to wire your speakers that don't make much sense but the way I showed gives you the most direct path for the signal. Feel free to take it or leave it.
The reason I know that the signal that goes to the tweeter is the same as the signal that comes from it is that the wires are literally crimped together in the contacts in the connector (and you can also see that it's the same signal in the schematics in the manual). But as I said, I agree that the way you said to wire it is the cleanest, and I did mine that way.
Great vid man, quick question though, your crossover has one input channel? (to run the signal from the head unit to the speakers) and 2 out put channels that go to the tweeter and the door speaker?
Yes a physical crossover takes the signal and sets a "crossover point" at which higher frequencies are sent to the tweeter and lower frequencies to the woofer.
Doing my second full speaker system install in an 06 legacy. Those brackets look a lot nicer than the metra ones. I'm thinking they would be a better seal and I'm slightly concerned about speaker depth as i invested in some nicer focals this time around and they are a decent bit deeper than the Kickers I had in my old 06 legacy. If you can tell me where you got those. I can't find them online. Thanks and your videos are great as I am new to turbo legacy life.
Hey Matt, those adapters are from carstereoadapters.com/installations/05-09-legacy They're good spacers but I actually ended up taking them back off and turning the stock speakers into adapters because I didn't need the extra depth and the seal was better that way. If you need the depth the adapters are good
How do these compare to the polk mm's..i have these actually on a 5 channel nvx...and cerwin 10...im thinking of trying polk mm's or doing sound deadening for better sound quality.
I'd like to know that too. I feel like the db6501/651 set sounded better to me than the newer version to be honest but that said, sound deadening is THE way to go. I'm in progress of doing the 3rd video where I sound deaden everything and I've done the front doors so far. Sound quality improved DRASTICALLY. 1 layer of foil deadener on the outside skin and one layer on the inside skin + 1 layer of closed cell foam is what I have right now.
@@RPGarage So it does improve im a little new to this but not really but aiming for sound quality ive tried different speakers but like polks silk dome...thought of trying the polk mm's which are there higher tier but i think its just means there more powerful and i dont think i need that but looking for sound quality..i have heard those polks before sounded good too...but im wondering if i should try polk mm's or sound deaden but i think ima might try sound deadening...local show said 350 with soundskins...doors and trunk...i have a scion xd...with a similar setup as you.
I have a kenwood ddx395...nvx 900.5 which i believe is the same amp as the polk...cerwin vega 10...polk db component up front and coaxil in rear..6.5...
lol i basically got same set up as you instead i have the nvx model...but just and fyi if u get a 2ohm sub you will get more power being that amp runs more watts at 2ohms and 1 ohm...which i hear they have 1 ohm subs...so i believe it's 440 at 2ohms and 550 or something like that at 1 ohm...i'm running a cerwin vega at 2ohm's sound pretty good...with the polk db's....
Because the rear speakers aren’t really helping the sound stage. Depending on intent, going for SQ and proper imaging, eliminating the rear speakers all together would be the best route.
Do I need to use the crossovers i have a ninth gen civic and I didnt buy an amp but I thought all cars came stock with it p.s. i wont be using the tweeters
You can skip the crossovers if you're not using tweeters BUT if you're not using tweeters the speakers will sound like garbage. If you want a single speaker design with no tweeter use a coaxial model like the db652
and just so you know yes the polk db's are silk dome tweeter's so they're more laid back and smooth in my book...they both sound good with sub..but polks sound really good to me i like the smoothness and how they blend with the bass...
@@ahambhramasmii @N D depends what your looking for...possibly what vehicle...if u want smooth silk dome tweeters that are clear and mellow...polk...if u want metal tweeters and are clear and clean...but can be over bearing or harsh depending what u like...at high volumes...u can try infinity...infinity is really good alot of people like them but alot of people like polk as well...u can also go on crutchfield.com and listen to them and read review's...and all three of those speakers brands. ive had infinity primus and reference the primus are better for smaller vehicles reference middle rode...but i like the smoothness of polks...the reference will be clear just like polks...metal tweeters tho instead of silk.
Nice install! Remove those extra long bundled lengths of wire when you do stage 3 so you don't add unnecessary resistance
Thank you for this video. My door speakers are the exact same as yours. I had mine for about 2 years now. Make sure the Jumpers inside the cross over is secure. After shutting my door a few times after install they came loose and caused noise to pop in and out in my tweeter. I thought the tweeter was bad. I have a My08 Legacy 3.0r. using Wavtech for signal to my amps. I agree with you that the polk can use a little more mid bass but my sub over powers it so its not too much of a problem with mine. Tweeters are piercing. =D
Because in Japan the steering wheel is on the other side so the diagram your reading is for a right hand drive legacy lucky for us in Australia we share the same side 😊 love your work by the way bro
Cool that's a good point, didn't consider that could be a RHD/LHD difference. You guys in Australia get it easy trying to upgrade your Liberties! Thanks
I found that the tweeters in the stock location were way too obnoxious, but it could be because they were Alpines that were installed previously. I almost went with coaxial speakers but am probably going to make the move for the Polks, glad I found someone with the same car as me for comparison
Hey so did you encounter any problems with the battery and alternator from the double din/ speaker/ amp/ subwoofer upgrade ? it looks like alot of extra power so just wondering
So if I have an aftermarket head unit already would I still need a crossover if I just wanted to replace the factory speakers with something a little bit better? Great Video, I really like that it’s a walkthrough it’s hard to find good informative vids on these cars.
Thanks for the comment. If you have an aftermarket headunit chances are it's already capable of electronically crossing over the speakers, look in your audio settings somewhere. That said, you don't need a crossover if you don't have a subwoofer since they should be playing their full range. What you should be more concerned about is how much power your speakers need. You want to be able to give them the upper 2/3rd of their power rating RMS to get the best dynamics out of them.
Hi brother i am looking to upgrade my factory speaker into polk db+ component speakers is it still
Worth a upgrade? I do have a polk device at home which i am a big fan of . So please let me know how the performance is .
RP. Thank you for the video. I’m currently installing the exact speakers in my 2005 as well.
I read your update and are you saying instead of installing the tweeters in the stock location, install them on
the side mirror housing (the triangle part) that sits right above the door card ? Is this correct ??
Yes that's right. I suggest before you reinstall everything, sit in the car, hold the tweeter in each of those positions and play some music. I found the highs to be clearer when I put it in the top position. Instead of cutting into the triangles (which is an option) I bought some of the tweeter housings from a JDM model online, pulled out the stock tweeters and put my own in there. Lots of work but very OEM appearance. The housings were about $75 all in from a seller I found on ebay. You'll still get a good result with them in the regular location but if you want to go the distance that's how I did it.
@@RPGarage ok I got you. I think I’m going to go the JDM housing route. Thanks! again.
Someone's really been there. That's a left side speaker in the right side door...
Useful video, thanks, but there is an error. He says the audio signal (from the head unit) goes the tweeter, which then "processes it" and sends it on to the lower speaker; so he cuts that signal where it goes into the tweeter and uses that as the input to the crossover. That will work. But there's no processing in the tweeter. The signal from the HU is simply connected to the wires that go down to the lower speaker (that's why there are 4 wires going into the tweeter connector). So you could just as easily drive the crossover from the wires that go to the lower speaker, and just leave the tweeter connector dangling. I think the way the video does it is cleaner, and that's what I did, but the way he describes it is misleading.
Have you tested the signal that goes to the tweeter and the signal that comes from it? How do you know there's no processing? Unless you've done that there's no guarantee that the signal that goes to the tweeter is the same as the signal that comes from it and that means what you're saying is misleading. This is stock wiring, the tweeter could very easily be set up with a built in filter to prevent higher frequencies from going to the woofer without indicating that anywhere. Regardless, there are a million ways to wire your speakers that don't make much sense but the way I showed gives you the most direct path for the signal. Feel free to take it or leave it.
The reason I know that the signal that goes to the tweeter is the same as the signal that comes from it is that the wires are literally crimped together in the contacts in the connector (and you can also see that it's the same signal in the schematics in the manual). But as I said, I agree that the way you said to wire it is the cleanest, and I did mine that way.
Great vid man, quick question though, your crossover has one input channel? (to run the signal from the head unit to the speakers) and 2 out put channels that go to the tweeter and the door speaker?
Yes a physical crossover takes the signal and sets a "crossover point" at which higher frequencies are sent to the tweeter and lower frequencies to the woofer.
Thanks man, I’m still new to this type of work and tryin to learn as I go, I really appreciate you making this video! Helped out a lot
Doing my second full speaker system install in an 06 legacy. Those brackets look a lot nicer than the metra ones. I'm thinking they would be a better seal and I'm slightly concerned about speaker depth as i invested in some nicer focals this time around and they are a decent bit deeper than the Kickers I had in my old 06 legacy. If you can tell me where you got those. I can't find them online. Thanks and your videos are great as I am new to turbo legacy life.
Hey Matt, those adapters are from carstereoadapters.com/installations/05-09-legacy
They're good spacers but I actually ended up taking them back off and turning the stock speakers into adapters because I didn't need the extra depth and the seal was better that way. If you need the depth the adapters are good
@@RPGarage Awesome, thank you!
How do these compare to the polk mm's..i have these actually on a 5 channel nvx...and cerwin 10...im thinking of trying polk mm's or doing sound deadening for better sound quality.
I'd like to know that too. I feel like the db6501/651 set sounded better to me than the newer version to be honest but that said, sound deadening is THE way to go. I'm in progress of doing the 3rd video where I sound deaden everything and I've done the front doors so far. Sound quality improved DRASTICALLY. 1 layer of foil deadener on the outside skin and one layer on the inside skin + 1 layer of closed cell foam is what I have right now.
@@RPGarage So it does improve im a little new to this but not really but aiming for sound quality ive tried different speakers but like polks silk dome...thought of trying the polk mm's which are there higher tier but i think its just means there more powerful and i dont think i need that but looking for sound quality..i have heard those polks before sounded good too...but im wondering if i should try polk mm's or sound deaden but i think ima might try sound deadening...local show said 350 with soundskins...doors and trunk...i have a scion xd...with a similar setup as you.
I have a kenwood ddx395...nvx 900.5 which i believe is the same amp as the polk...cerwin vega 10...polk db component up front and coaxil in rear..6.5...
lol i basically got same set up as you instead i have the nvx model...but just and fyi if u get a 2ohm sub you will get more power being that amp runs more watts at 2ohms and 1 ohm...which i hear they have 1 ohm subs...so i believe it's 440 at 2ohms and 550 or something like that at 1 ohm...i'm running a cerwin vega at 2ohm's sound pretty good...with the polk db's....
What if I am just installing the bottom speakers? Do I need a cross over and how would the wiring work then?
A previous owner of my Legacy replaced only the front passenger speakers also 😂 😅
Because the rear speakers aren’t really helping the sound stage. Depending on intent, going for SQ and proper imaging, eliminating the rear speakers all together would be the best route.
Did you do your Brackets yourself ?
i mean the speakers mount
He says it on the video... He bought them.
Watching the video would have gotten you this answer two months ago...
Do I need to use the crossovers i have a ninth gen civic and I didnt buy an amp but I thought all cars came stock with it p.s. i wont be using the tweeters
You can skip the crossovers if you're not using tweeters BUT if you're not using tweeters the speakers will sound like garbage. If you want a single speaker design with no tweeter use a coaxial model like the db652
RP Garage i have tweeters but im not using the polk tweeters will it still work if I use stock crossovers
do you think this is better than infinity reference 6530cx or focal ?
ive had infinity reference they sound good but i like silk tweeters instead of metal...never had focal..but i hear they're bright too like infinity.
and just so you know yes the polk db's are silk dome tweeter's so they're more laid back and smooth in my book...they both sound good with sub..but polks sound really good to me i like the smoothness and how they blend with the bass...
@@oslozoya1
Do you think polk is better than infinity reference
@@ahambhramasmii @N D depends what your looking for...possibly what vehicle...if u want smooth silk dome tweeters that are clear and mellow...polk...if u want metal tweeters and are clear and clean...but can be over bearing or harsh depending what u like...at high volumes...u can try infinity...infinity is really good alot of people like them but alot of people like polk as well...u can also go on crutchfield.com and listen to them and read review's...and all three of those speakers brands.
ive had infinity primus and reference the primus are better for smaller vehicles reference middle rode...but i like the smoothness of polks...the reference will be clear just like polks...metal tweeters tho instead of silk.
what is your sub? good vid.
Thanks right now I have a Pioneer TS-SWX251 in there until I can get a 12" box for my Polk MM1240. The Pioneer isn't great.
I'm having trouble finding speaker adapters for the rear doors on a 2012 Outback. Any suggestions?
Some people have been known to cut the stock speaker apart and use the edge as an adapter for the new speaker.
Is the back door speaker size the same as the front?
Yes but 1 is component and one is coaxial