Outstanding video - just serviced my '13 triple yesterday following these instructions. This is one of the best tutorials I've referenced -- lots of detail while still keeping things brief. I wish I had one of these for every maintenance item for every vehicle I own!
Thank you for going through the process.Sometimes it's easy to take fro granted all the helpful info available on the net but if it wasn't for people like you things would be a lot harder for people like me. Top fella!
Note, it is NOT important to use silica-free coolant or any specific coolant for that matter. What IS important is not to mix types. As well as for removing scale and deposits, when changing coolant always fill with water, run engine to temp and drain. This dilutes any residual old coolant to almost just water. Then refill with whatever you like, the cheap old-style green ethylene glycol at 50/50 is actually excellent. While this method is more involved, it is also a more proper cooling system service. Cheers to the OP for showing us some tips and his system is clean enough for a drain-and-refill.
I learned something new. Several Japanese cars (but especially Honda) had early water pump failure through the 2000's due to silicate antifreeze attacking their mechanical water pump seals. So, no reason not to use OAT (Organic Acid Technology) stuff from here on. I honestly have no idea whether Triumph uses conventional rubber or ceramic/carbon mechanical seals in its water pumps but at the high cost of replacement, I'd rather not find out. Many thanks.
Well those scrivets are in a place that makes it Very hard to "stop them spinning." The forward one came out no problem but the rear one spun just like you said and because of the tight space I had to Dremel it out. Other than that wasted hour (not your fault!) your instructions are brilliant. It was also a twofer because I was installing new turn signals and had to take them off anyway. Cheers!
Watched your video a couple of days ago, very informative and helpful...that damn screvit screw was a complete pain in the butt!, worse part of the whole job.
Thank you so much! Nice job. If not for that 2nd "Bugger" scrivet clip 🤬 this was a half-hour job. I eventually forcefully ripped the scrivet out with needle pliers 👋🏽 I did not find reason to remove the light assembly
Hi Thanks for watching and commenting, I followed the procedure as per workshop manual, but glad you find another way without removing indicators, those clips are Bugger's for sure :)
Thanks for watching, you can remove the brake pads without taking the caliper off,but to remove the caliper you have to remove the rear wheel. I don't have this bike anymore so unfortunately I won't be able to do a video.
I decided having two bikes (the street and the vfr) was two much. I never rode my street enough, and wanted something that was comfy so test rode a z1000sx and that was it I had to have one:)
I guess it'd be an idea to precisely measure the old coolant you drain out so you know if you've filled every void when you put the same amount back in? My dealer said it's necessary to get the front wheel pretty high in order to bleed the system properly. Thanks for the video.
Yes that's not a bad shout I was unaware of lifting the front wheel, I can see how that would help luckily for me following the manual procedure worked with no issues.
Hi sorry for the delayed response, It should be similar I don't have the workshop manual to hand to check but for sure the process should close. Have a search on the net you should be able to find a manual to download gratis ;)
Thanks for the video. Just a few questions the first video I watched on coolant change the tech flushed the system with distilled water before adding new coolant. Is that not really necessary or does it not matter? Also the bike they were working on was a first gen and it had a bleeder to get all the air pockets out of the system. I have a 3rd gen (2013) like yours so I'm wondering does it not have the bleeder or is it just easier to expell the air pockets out by squeezing all the hoses?
Hi thanks for watching and commenting. It's certainly good practice to flush a cooling system, I have useused distilled water because in my location (the south UK) the tap water has a chalk content and it's known as hard water, just me being over anal! The procedure in this video is based on the workshop manual and I'm pretty certain in there it actually tells you to tip the bike side to side from memory there is no bleeder, I wasn't going to do that , I an a vehicle (car) technician and I have always squeezed the hoses on cars and it's always worked for me hence why I did it in this video. If you have a search on the net you will find there are official workshop manuals out in the 'wild' or there used be at least.
Good video just a question wen riding what's your temperature gauge read mine I think is about 5 or 6 I think iv only heard my fan once at 8 bars I think is that to late thanks for the videos
Hi I don't have this bike anymore, I seem to remember the temp gauge bars used to go quite high before the fan come on 5 to six bars seems familiar for normal temp.
Nice tutorial mate!! Can you let me know when does the fan suppose to kick in? (6 bars or more). I guess my fan is not kicking in at 6. Don't know if the issue is with fan or temperature sensors to kick in fan. Room temperature here is around 20-27 degree C.
Thanks for the comment and watching. I don't have this bike anymore but from memory the fan would kick in at around 6 to 7 bars. Check your fan is not seized/stuck maybe try running it to the 7th bar. You may need to plug into diagnostics to check the coolant temperature sensor reading.
Thanks for the video. I have some questions: 1. I thought they had a bleeder screw on the other side of the radiator or somewhere high. 2. Is there an overflow under the tank high up (like the speed) or just the one below. 3. How many bottles of coolant did you need. Thanks Jason
From memory I carried out the procedure as per the factory manual, there is only the one over flow tank as shown and the official capacity is 2.24 litres. HTH
Great video, thank you👍. How much coolant did your bike take? Mine only took 1.75 litres, even with rocking the bike side to side 45 degrees each side. Also I ran it for 10 minutes, coolant fan never cut in, but it didnt overheat either.
Hi sorry missed this comment - I can't remember how much I put in it was seven years ago! I have just checked the workshop manual and it states 2.24 litres . Thanks for watching I take it - it has been ok since?
that coolant was so clean... What came out of my radiator was sooth black, despite the mechanic telling me it was alright. Now I doubt if they tell me they changed oil filter and oil they actually did that.
Yes I missed that apologies-if you look at the manual it doesn't ask you to drain the expansion bottle but yes top it up just below min top your radiator up bleed it, run it up let cool and check both levels.
AJUDGE24 judge Sometimes coolant leaks can be funny things. I've had ones that only leak qhen the engines warm and ones that leak when the engines cooling down. let us know what it is.
Hi, I've just looked in the workshop manual and it does indeed look like there is a bleeder located in the top hose, well noticed,don't know how I missed that I must of had a brain fart. Thanks for letting me know.
Hello. And thanks for a you helpful vides .. I've been having an issue with my 03 Street triple r when it's hot it's hard to start. Battery is fairly new voltage is good. If I go for a 15 mile ride stop for whatever reason turn off the bike doesn't want to start let it sit for a few minutes and it fires right up. Any help will do. thanks mate
@@TheSussexBiker still cranks over. The starter definitely has a different sound to it, the sound is not alarming. keep on cracking on it battery get lower obviously right 😂.. I looked at videos on RUclips seems like a common problem on 03 and 04 never got a straight answer tho. thanks any help would be appreciated..
@@anthonym5050 I think it would be worth checking all cables especially the high current ones for high resistance/poor contact/corrosion. Also could be the starter motor is weak when warm. You're right it does seem to be a common problem with no real fix-unfortunately it's going to take some troubleshooting/diagnosing. Good luck with it.
So is the reservoir supposed to have a certain level of coolant in it? I just noticed mine is sitting on the minimum line but I've never heard of topping up a coolant reservoir before especially on a motorcycle. I have heard of topping off your coolant but never the reservoir.
Yes you have a min and max so the coolant should be ideally just below the 'max' line-I followed the factory manual procedure it should also tell you in the owners handbook where the coolant level should be :)
@@JK-tu1xx I personally use motorcycle specific coolant that is silicate free. I normally use Fuchs silkolene pro. If you are only topping up you would best to check if you running the original coolant and/or check what you are topping up with is safe to mix with what you have. It should be but check with the manufacturer.
dallatorretdu I take it you mean indicator/ turn signals. Depends if you want to keep it standard. If you fit led you will need to fit a new relay as well. Whilst Triumph parts can be expensive you may find aftermarket are not as good quality you pays your money and takes your choice. Have a search around and see what you find.
Hi a bit of subject this but I've just got myself a Street Triple, I want a tank pad protector like yours. What make is it and where did you get it. Cheers.
Got a question... I did the coolant flush as per the vid. Squeezed the hoses, tipped the bike, started for 30 sec and blurped throttle, refilled... Then when I let it run(15mins) to get the fan to start, the temp just wouldn't rise above the 5th bar. Is that normal? How long should I let it run? Thnx for the vid and for any help.
Thanks for watching. From memory I think mine gets up to the sixth bar. Let the bike cool down and leave it overnight if possible with the rad cap off and correct the level if required. Make sure all hoses have got coolant in. Then try running it up again with the cap on.
Thanks for the quick response! I checked the level this morning and it was still full. Squeezed the hoses and tipped it from side to side. Started the engine, it took close to 15- 20 minutes for the sixth bar to show and the fan to come on. I guess the coolant is doing it's job, although you would think it should absorb heat faster. Who knows:-)Anyways, Thnx again for the vid and your input. I did a brake flush as well with the help of your vid. Waiting on your valve check vid, hehe!!!
Hi, not sure what you mean? Do you is the colour a guide to when it should be changed? Normally it should be changed at a specific time/mileage , although if it's dirty then of course it should be done also if you don't know when it was last done.
AJUDGE24 judge. I would strip off what you need to see properly i.e cowlings etc. Then pressure test or run the bike up and using a torch and mirror identify where the leak is coming from. Hope this helps
Are you talking about the expansion bottle (plastic) ? or the Radiator? if it's the plastic tank you just top it up to the maximum line. Have you got the owners handbook? if not you used to be able to download them from the Triumph website.
You may, as you could see the coolant was fairly clean and no scum in the expansion tank so I deemed it wasn't necessary. However I have on other bikes which have been neglected filled up with distilled or natural spring water and done a flush. Thanks for watching :)
TheSussexBiker, this was an awesome step by step instructions..thank you so much. I did this work on my STR last weekend and it really helped alot, This was my first time flushing my coolant for my bike and I have around 33000km on it so I had to flushed it with distilled water 4 times and eventualy got it cleaned, surprisingly there were no scaling on the reservoir. Thanks again.
dealers cant find a fault so god knows! dont think they pressure tested it tho !wish theyre was more dealers in my area !dont trust the dealers unless they r gettin paid for a job
Outstanding video - just serviced my '13 triple yesterday following these instructions. This is one of the best tutorials I've referenced -- lots of detail while still keeping things brief. I wish I had one of these for every maintenance item for every vehicle I own!
Wow, just found you and this is SUPER HELPFUL as bike is ten years old without coolant change.
Glad you found it useful :)
Your videos are superb and your instructions are spot on. Well done!
Thanks very much for the kind comment and glad they help :)
Finally got around to coolant on my 2011 and this tutorial was the handiest. Surprised not to see more likes on this page, instruction is brilliant.
painmagnet1 thanks for watching glad you found it useful ☺
Thank you for going through the process.Sometimes it's easy to take fro granted all the helpful info available on the net but if it wasn't for people like you things would be a lot harder for people like me. Top fella!
Hello. I speak of Brazil. Your video helped me because I have a motorcycle like yours. Congratulations and Thanks !!!
Great video. Nice and thorough explanation. I'll tackle the job this weekend. Thanks 👍🏽
Hi thanks for the kind comment,hope it goes well :)
A good straightforward informative video.
Thanks for the comment and for watching :)
I Changed The Coolant on My 2015 Triumph Street Triple Rx Yesterday - Can't Thank U Enough !! :)
Thanks for watching and glad you found it useful :)
Absolutely outstanding video, I plan on doing this on my 2014 Street Triple R in spring. Thanks for all of these excellent videos!
Derek McCurdy Thanks for watching and I'm glad it is of use.
Note, it is NOT important to use silica-free coolant or any specific coolant for that matter. What IS important is not to mix types. As well as for removing scale and deposits, when changing coolant always fill with water, run engine to temp and drain. This dilutes any residual old coolant to almost just water. Then refill with whatever you like, the cheap old-style green ethylene glycol at 50/50 is actually excellent. While this method is more involved, it is also a more proper cooling system service. Cheers to the OP for showing us some tips and his system is clean enough for a drain-and-refill.
painmagnet1 pages.infinit.net/mcrides/engine_tech/engine_coolant.htm
TheSussexBiker A blogger is not a reliable source of information. Thanks for the idea though, I'll research it a bit and see if I can find more.
I learned something new. Several Japanese cars (but especially Honda) had early water pump failure through the 2000's due to silicate antifreeze attacking their mechanical water pump seals. So, no reason not to use OAT (Organic Acid Technology) stuff from here on. I honestly have no idea whether Triumph uses conventional rubber or ceramic/carbon mechanical seals in its water pumps but at the high cost of replacement, I'd rather not find out. Many thanks.
Tutorial molto chiaro e utile per la sostituzione del liquido refrigerante della Street!.
Well those scrivets are in a place that makes it Very hard to "stop them spinning." The forward one came out no problem but the rear one spun just like you said and because of the tight space I had to Dremel it out. Other than that wasted hour (not your fault!) your instructions are brilliant. It was also a twofer because I was installing new turn signals and had to take them off anyway. Cheers!
Glad the video was useful and it helped.
Watched your video a couple of days ago, very informative and helpful...that damn screvit screw was a complete pain in the butt!, worse part of the whole job.
Thanks for this video. I'm planning on doing this next week using your video as a guide. This is the first one I've seen for a 2013+ S3R.
Thanks for watching, I hope the job goes well :)
I'm impressed. You know your stuff.
Many thanks for watching and the kind comment :)
Thank you so much! Nice job.
If not for that 2nd "Bugger" scrivet clip 🤬 this was a half-hour job. I eventually forcefully ripped the scrivet out with needle pliers 👋🏽
I did not find reason to remove the light assembly
Hi Thanks for watching and commenting, I followed the procedure as per workshop manual, but glad you find another way without removing indicators, those clips are Bugger's for sure :)
You saved my day, I was looking to do the same, great vid mate!!!
Love your content mate! Its gold! Many thanks!
Thanks for watching and the king comments.
Great video. Helped me with my 2009 coolant change. Thanks!!
Very Nice & Informative Video - Thanks :)
thanks for the video 😉✌🏼
Thanks for watching and commenting 🙂
Great videos, I'd like if you put one up explaining how to remove the rear brake caliper / brake pads.. thanks again for all your help..👍
Thanks for watching, you can remove the brake pads without taking the caliper off,but to remove the caliper you have to remove the rear wheel. I don't have this bike anymore so unfortunately I won't be able to do a video.
Thanks.. can I ask you why you sold the street triple?
I decided having two bikes (the street and the vfr) was two much. I never rode my street enough, and wanted something that was comfy so test rode a z1000sx and that was it I had to have one:)
Would appreciate that you make one instruction video on how to replace the radiator fan
Hi sorry I don't have this bike anymore.
Great videos how did you go around resetting the spanner light on the dash
Hi Thanks for watching and commenting, I used a programme called 'Dealertool'
I guess it'd be an idea to precisely measure the old coolant you drain out so you know if you've filled every void when you put the same amount back in? My dealer said it's necessary to get the front wheel pretty high in order to bleed the system properly. Thanks for the video.
Yes that's not a bad shout I was unaware of lifting the front wheel, I can see how that would help luckily for me following the manual procedure worked with no issues.
hi, is it the same process for the model street triple 675 year 2008? Thanks
Hi sorry for the delayed response, It should be similar I don't have the workshop manual to hand to check but for sure the process should close. Have a search on the net you should be able to find a manual to download gratis ;)
Great video 👌
Thanks for the video. Just a few questions the first video I watched on coolant change the tech flushed the system with distilled water before adding new coolant. Is that not really necessary or does it not matter? Also the bike they were working on was a first gen and it had a bleeder to get all the air pockets out of the system. I have a 3rd gen (2013) like yours so I'm wondering does it not have the bleeder or is it just easier to expell the air pockets out by squeezing all the hoses?
Hi thanks for watching and commenting. It's certainly good practice to flush a cooling system, I have useused distilled water because in my location (the south UK) the tap water has a chalk content and it's known as hard water, just me being over anal! The procedure in this video is based on the workshop manual and I'm pretty certain in there it actually tells you to tip the bike side to side from memory there is no bleeder, I wasn't going to do that , I an a vehicle (car) technician and I have always squeezed the hoses on cars and it's always worked for me hence why I did it in this video.
If you have a search on the net you will find there are official workshop manuals out in the 'wild' or there used be at least.
Merci, good tutorial I'm go to try on my street 2014 👍
Good luck hope the video helps.
Thanks, I'll do the same very soon. How much coolant is required for a complete change?
I seem to remember the listed capacity was 2.2 or 2.4 litres but I think I used around 2 litres.
can u make video about cam chain tensioner? how to change it... ?
Good video just a question wen riding what's your temperature gauge read mine I think is about 5 or 6 I think iv only heard my fan once at 8 bars I think is that to late thanks for the videos
Hi I don't have this bike anymore, I seem to remember the temp gauge bars used to go quite high before the fan come on 5 to six bars seems familiar for normal temp.
Nice tutorial mate!! Can you let me know when does the fan suppose to kick in? (6 bars or more). I guess my fan is not kicking in at 6. Don't know if the issue is with fan or temperature sensors to kick in fan.
Room temperature here is around 20-27 degree C.
Thanks for the comment and watching. I don't have this bike anymore but from memory the fan would kick in at around 6 to 7 bars. Check your fan is not seized/stuck maybe try running it to the 7th bar. You may need to plug into diagnostics to check the coolant temperature sensor reading.
Thanks for the video. I have some questions:
1. I thought they had a bleeder screw on the other side of the radiator or somewhere high.
2. Is there an overflow under the tank high up (like the speed) or just the one below.
3. How many bottles of coolant did you need.
Thanks
Jason
From memory I carried out the procedure as per the factory manual, there is only the one over flow tank as shown and the official capacity is 2.24 litres. HTH
TheSussexBiker thanks mate, appreciate it.
Great video, thank you👍. How much coolant did your bike take? Mine only took 1.75 litres, even with rocking the bike side to side 45 degrees each side. Also I ran it for 10 minutes, coolant fan never cut in, but it didnt overheat either.
Hi sorry missed this comment - I can't remember how much I put in it was seven years ago! I have just checked the workshop manual and it states 2.24 litres . Thanks for watching I take it - it has been ok since?
great! thank you! I was looking for how to do that
that coolant was so clean... What came out of my radiator was sooth black, despite the mechanic telling me it was alright. Now I doubt if they tell me they changed oil filter and oil they actually did that.
That's not good, it's not good to have doubts on work carried out.
Are you supposed to add coolant in the expansion tank after the radiator is topped off?
Yes I missed that apologies-if you look at the manual it doesn't ask you to drain the expansion bottle but yes top it up just below min top your radiator up bleed it, run it up let cool and check both levels.
cheers again had rac out wasnt leaking now so its going back 2 the dealers to presure test it but its strange its not leakin now???
AJUDGE24 judge Sometimes coolant leaks can be funny things. I've had ones that only leak qhen the engines warm and ones that leak when the engines cooling down. let us know what it is.
Does this version of the R not have the Air bleeder screw at the top?
Hi, I've just looked in the workshop manual and it does indeed look like there is a bleeder located in the top hose, well noticed,don't know how I missed that I must of had a brain fart. Thanks for letting me know.
Hello. And thanks for a you helpful vides ..
I've been having an issue with my 03 Street triple r when it's hot it's hard to start. Battery is fairly new voltage is good. If I go for a 15 mile ride stop for whatever reason turn off the bike doesn't want to start let it sit for a few minutes and it fires right up. Any help will do. thanks mate
Does it crank over and not fire or is it dead i.e no cranking?
@@TheSussexBiker still cranks over. The starter definitely has a different sound to it, the sound is not alarming. keep on cracking on it battery get lower obviously right 😂.. I looked at videos on RUclips seems like a common problem on 03 and 04 never got a straight answer tho. thanks any help would be appreciated..
@@anthonym5050 I think it would be worth checking all cables especially the high current ones for high resistance/poor contact/corrosion. Also could be the starter motor is weak when warm. You're right it does seem to be a common problem with no real fix-unfortunately it's going to take some troubleshooting/diagnosing. Good luck with it.
So is the reservoir supposed to have a certain level of coolant in it? I just noticed mine is sitting on the minimum line but I've never heard of topping up a coolant reservoir before especially on a motorcycle. I have heard of topping off your coolant but never the reservoir.
Yes you have a min and max so the coolant should be ideally just below the 'max' line-I followed the factory manual procedure it should also tell you in the owners handbook where the coolant level should be :)
@@TheSussexBiker Any idea what coolant the 675 street triples run? Looks like mine could use some coolant as she's sitting at the minimum line.
@@JK-tu1xx I personally use motorcycle specific coolant that is silicate free. I normally use Fuchs silkolene pro. If you are only topping up you would best to check if you running the original coolant and/or check what you are topping up with is safe to mix with what you have. It should be but check with the manufacturer.
thank you, I also cracked the transparent indicator window, what should I search online for a replacement?
Or is it better to get the OEM led kit?
dallatorretdu I take it you mean indicator/ turn signals. Depends if you want to keep it standard. If you fit led you will need to fit a new relay as well. Whilst Triumph parts can be expensive you may find aftermarket are not as good quality you pays your money and takes your choice. Have a search around and see what you find.
Thanks for the video. This doesn't apply to the 2010 street triple as the coolant reservoir is under the seat.
Hi a bit of subject this but I've just got myself a Street Triple, I want a tank pad protector like yours. What make is it and where did you get it. Cheers.
It looks like the Triumph brand tank protector.
Did you fill the resovoir or just the radiator?
Yes as per the video :)
Scrivets are impossible to remove, no idea how you got them off
They can be fiddly - it's explained in the video at 2:07 :)
Great video, what brand is the rad guard?
Thanks very for watching. Can't remember off hand, I'll try to remember.
Thank you. Informative and concise. I recommend everyone subscribe!
Got a question... I did the coolant flush as per the vid. Squeezed the hoses, tipped the bike, started for 30 sec and blurped throttle, refilled... Then when I let it run(15mins) to get the fan to start, the temp just wouldn't rise above the 5th bar. Is that normal? How long should I let it run?
Thnx for the vid and for any help.
Thanks for watching. From memory I think mine gets up to the sixth bar. Let the bike cool down and leave it overnight if possible with the rad cap off and correct the level if required. Make sure all hoses have got coolant in. Then try running it up again with the cap on.
Thanks for the quick response! I checked the level this morning and it was still full. Squeezed the hoses and tipped it from side to side. Started the engine, it took close to 15- 20 minutes for the sixth bar to show and the fan to come on. I guess the coolant is doing it's job, although you would think it should absorb heat faster. Who knows:-)Anyways, Thnx again for the vid and your input. I did a brake flush as well with the help of your vid. Waiting on your valve check vid, hehe!!!
How to top up extension tank with coolant .
hello! does it have to do with the color of the coolant?
Hi, not sure what you mean? Do you is the colour a guide to when it should be changed? Normally it should be changed at a specific time/mileage , although if it's dirty then of course it should be done also if you don't know when it was last done.
@@TheSussexBiker does it have to do with color, blue, green, red!
@@bledjannikolli Sorry I'm still not understanding 'Does what have to do with the colour?'
@@TheSussexBiker there are green, red, blue, yellow antifreezes
my triumhi 675 2015 is green in color.
hi how do u fault find on a radaitor leakin at the top left of the radaitor plus a drip on the belly pan? cheers
AJUDGE24 judge. I would strip off what you need to see properly i.e cowlings etc. Then pressure test or run the bike up and using a torch and mirror identify where the leak is coming from. Hope this helps
Very much confused to to topup extension tank with coolant.
Are you talking about the expansion bottle (plastic) ? or the Radiator? if it's the plastic tank you just top it up to the maximum line. Have you got the owners handbook? if not you used to be able to download them from the Triumph website.
May I ask why you didn't flush the whole system with Distilled water?
You may, as you could see the coolant was fairly clean and no scum in the expansion tank so I deemed it wasn't necessary. However I have on other bikes which have been neglected filled up with distilled or natural spring water and done a flush. Thanks for watching :)
TheSussexBiker, this was an awesome step by step instructions..thank you so much. I did this work on my STR last weekend and it really helped alot, This was my first time flushing my coolant for my bike and I have around 33000km on it so I had to flushed it with distilled water 4 times and eventualy got it cleaned, surprisingly there were no scaling on the reservoir. Thanks again.
Glad it helped and Thanks for watching:)
Why didn't yoi flush it ?
dealers cant find a fault so god knows! dont think they pressure tested it tho !wish theyre was more dealers in my area !dont trust the dealers unless they r gettin paid for a job
AJUDGE24 judge If another dealer is too far away. Take a picture/ video of the leak and go back