Tip mate , use another 1 ft rod , same sized , then over lap cracked section like a support brace , after grinding gal off 1st , only where welding is to be done , welding back to just broken weld with no extra support will fail again in matter off time , never weld to gal or paint or rust grind where ever you are to weld , don't weld any more than 1 inch sections , extra heat will weaken chassis , take your time go back fill gaps after 5 mins or so , keep it hot but not at melting or bending point , after welding , wire brush welds and cold gal spray it , hope I've helped ya some where in future
Great video and great work guys, all them jobs done in 32 mins, at that rate youll have offers for work coming from all angles once you set out on the road again!!😂😂 We admire your decision to keep the Booshy and get a few jobs on it done. Look fwd to the next one, take care guys.👍
The difference between a good welder and a bad welder is the good welder knows when he’s put down a bad weld, the bad welder thinks they’re all good, Dave 🇦🇺
Grant there is a really great product for cleaning alloy tool ones called Salty captain aluminium cleaner but you have probably finished Reno by now cheers love your content
Awesome video guys and check out that list who needs a spreadsheet when you can make your own check list 😉 keep up the awesome work guys can’t wait for the future upgrade videos
You might have the portable solar controller already sorted but if not what I did was install two identical DCDC chargers. One is dedicated to the rooftop solar panels. The second one charges from the Anderson plug on the truck when moving as well as the portable panels when stopped The advantage of going tis way is that having two the same gives you a spare if one fails when remote. Having two means that when driving you get charge from the roof solar as well as the truck. This can double your charge rate. Having a seperate solar controller for the portable panels means that it doesn’t matter if the portable panels are a different voltage to the roof panels you will get the maximum power that they can deliver. I have a 2010 BT. I reused some existing cable that ran from the batteries to the drawbar for my DCDC charger. I suspect the factory installed it to run a fridge in the back of the tow vehicle from the van batteries. The wire gauge was a little small but it would still charge the van battery at 50 amps. The problem it did cause though was that the voltage rise on the earth return cable caused the Towpro brake controller to go into an error state. It took me quite a while to work out what the problem was. Heavier cable fixed the problem. Picking up a used HWS cover is a good think. They are stupidly expensive new - even the crappy little plastic latch is expensive. I’ve painted mine with white heat proof paint a couple of times.
I have a BT about the same age. The best fix for chine is to use angle instead of the current round chine. Much stronger. It's bound to break again on the back of the stiff truck.
Wire wheel the parts then use lpg gas torch to warm metal and go buy some Comwell galvanising bars (cig)and galvanise it properly. When it molten wire brush it to adhere and smooth the raw galv.
Enjoyed the video and have faith you will learn stuff quickly , if confused go here on RUclips or Google and learn from education videos people make , so easy to become a pro now with no trade skills at all , the videos show you how to do it and what you will need to do it , even electrical stuff too
Good luck with the caravan renovations/repairs. Going to be an interesting set of videos coming up. Just on the chines. These are a very important strength addition to your A frame. They provide additional resistance to bending stress of the A frame. They are simple and a weight saving compared to increasing A frame section dimensions. You need to view the chines as a fuse. If they are broken, this indicates the A frame has been subjected to significant bending stresses. Overloading A frames with tool boxes, bike carriers, wood storage etc, plus the dynamic forces of just towing the vehicle can lead to the chines breaking through the repeated stress applied. Many kilometers of driving on heavily corrugated roads tests your caravan’s integrity. Butt welding steel that is under high tension forces needs to be done professionally as you have done. Sorry for the rant but just don’t want you having an unwanted issue on your travels.
Hey guys, love your content, just from my experience and height, The OGO is smaller in height and quantities than the Natures Head option, do your research And fyi Installation is a breeze
@@Livin_Like_Kings_ absolutely agree, we chose the natures head for the size capacity, didn’t realise my short statue, so I have a small step, Grant would be more comfortable definitely, the OGO would suite my short legs haha
Hey guys great start. As mentioned in other comments you will need to paint the a bar now. Grant when our new van arrives you can have a play with the Airbags 😂🤣 Excited to hear you are heading back on the road.
Great job Grant careful not to wire wheel the gal off. Don't wire wheel the aluminium just polish. Use gal paint on the drawbar. If you don't know stuff ask Alex did you know Alex used to build caravans lol
G'day guy's looks like ya traveling well health wise ,go the low shave mate looks better om N you, black hammer finish on A-frame and bits n Bob's, legs would look update, go hard or go home i say a nice facelift orsme. Lookin forward to see how its going to be. Please please don't be"ALEX" and tell us you used to build caravans loloooo😂😆😆😅 Look forward to seeing you in action, good luck.
Looks like you’re having fun with the house renos 👍. It’ll all be worth it in the end when you’re back on the road. Should we ask if Paul now doesn’t have a hot water cover on his bush tracker? 🤣 Keep up the good work.
i would remove that bar and weld a piece of 50x50 box flat to the bottom of the other piece of box. much stronger ,if therod breaks from new it will break much easier when repaired
This is going to sound harsh but I don't mean to be. Before welding metal that has been painted get all the paint off. Especially if you aren't practiced with welding. On critical work such as in this video use fresh/new GPS rods or cook the ones you have at 120-150 for at least 1 hour. You will be surprised how much moisture they can hold. Moisture makes it hard to get started and more importantly during the welding process hydrogen gets fussed into the metal making it extremely brittle. Which is probably why the first repair failed. And if you are going to continue to do welding get some proper lessons and lots of practice. Honestly you will be thanking me after. One last thing that bracing under the A frame draw bars is to prevent flexing which in turn prevents brittle fatigue which is what causes draw bars to crack and fail. When it comes to engineering there is a good reason for everything if done correctly.
If there is rust then there is no galvanising left. I suggest remove the rust then paint with a zinc rish paint to help prevent the rust returning. There is a dulux product called bright zinc I think that is pretty tough. I used it on my draw bar.
Aluminium cleaner on the checker plate , remove itt from van to clean it , acids in Aluminium cleaner will destroy gal from chassis , trust me when I say it , don't let it dry on Aluminium , use stiff scrubbing brush , scrubbing acid with grains off checker plate both ways , rinse it off , be surprised by it , then repeat processes with lighter brush each time and cleaner too, now it foams up and fizzy too , this is normal and more foam mean more action on cleaning alloy , , caution where gloves good rubber gloves and glasses too , do it in open spaces outside , rinse very well when finished, , auto smart is the place to get this cleaner or other commercial suppliers for auto trades, stuff sold in stores is weak as shit , Ali King is the type I use its dark green, darker the better and more pure it is , some time suppliers water it down , when it's not watered down it's about 1.8 kg pure litre, heavy shit
Galvanised metal is galvanised metal, right through the material mate , clean it up as much as like and but cold gal paint with a spray gun . Wagner spray guns are the best for paint scrappers mate . Penetration is important !
Hi guys, good work. But with the chequer plate aluminium. Just acid wash it it will come up bright like new alluminum with very little work. If you do that don't worry about anything underneath the area until you've done it. This is sort of in my realm of experience as a metal worker. If you want to ask me a question, no problems. Cheers Bill D.
Hey Grant id be painting the draw bar as it's going to rust on you now ,it's looks like the wire brush has removed the galvanise . All the with the reno Mate.
hi guys. loving the videos. loving the building and caravan reno content, too. Just wondering have you spoken to your mate "who use to build caravans" @nowornever? to get some advice on the reno 😀
the bar strap under the drawbar is designed by dumb and dumber. (not engineered competently- never was, never will be) - you would be better to replace it with a more rigid C section of crossectional area similar to that of half of the box section crossection area. It would then have a better equiped to that can take compression as well as tension than the strap bar. ( the strap could only take tension) - with the strap being so far from the neutral axis, it attempts to take the makority of the structural loads and will never be up for the task all the best with your renovations
Leave as much galvanising on it as you can , galvanising was done better 20 years ago than today's stuff and paint over it , marine aluminium acid cleaner wash for boats is great for cleaning Ali and removing the black shit out off the metal then apply an Ali pollish and buff your heart out will come up shiny beautiful
Tip mate , use another 1 ft rod , same sized , then over lap cracked section like a support brace , after grinding gal off 1st , only where welding is to be done , welding back to just broken weld with no extra support will fail again in matter off time , never weld to gal or paint or rust grind where ever you are to weld , don't weld any more than 1 inch sections , extra heat will weaken chassis , take your time go back fill gaps after 5 mins or so , keep it hot but not at melting or bending point , after welding , wire brush welds and cold gal spray it , hope I've helped ya some where in future
Thanks mate it’s a relief reading this!
I did all these things to the best of my limited knowledge and abilities.
😁👍 cheers mate
Great video and great work guys, all them jobs done in 32 mins, at that rate youll have offers for work coming from all angles once you set out on the road again!!😂😂
We admire your decision to keep the Booshy and get a few jobs on it done. Look fwd to the next one, take care guys.👍
Thanks mate!
Yeah kraming in the work!
How’s the work on the bug coming along?
The difference between a good welder and a bad welder is the good welder knows when he’s put down a bad weld, the bad welder thinks they’re all good, Dave 🇦🇺
Grant there is a really great product for cleaning alloy tool ones called Salty captain aluminium cleaner but you have probably finished Reno by now cheers love your content
Thanks for the tip!😁👍
You said you stuffed up, didn't look like it, good job
Awesome video guys and check out that list who needs a spreadsheet when you can make your own check list 😉 keep up the awesome work guys can’t wait for the future upgrade videos
Awesome thank you!🙏
Great vid guy's. Van will come up a treat. Thought you might have said you used to build caravans the same as Alex from Now or Never.😂😂😂😂.
🤣🤣🤣👍 cheers mate
Love your work, these things need to be done, old is always better your van will out last a lot of new one I reckon.
Hope so! 😁👍
Awesome guys. Love the casual approach no need to stress about this stuff i say. Keep on keeping on.
Thanks! Will do!😁👍
For the aluminium use purple magic with carpet pieces as a polishing cloth
Thanks for the tip!😁👍
Sounds like you need to hire.. Mr I used to build caravans
😂😂😂
Will have to judge Alex's sealing vs Grants
🤣🤣 I reckon he’s got me!
Lol 😂😂😂😂
You won’t regret the OGO. I recently put one in our van and it’s awesome.
Seriously looking forward to it!
……a toilet! I’m excited about a toilet!……
Lord help me!🤦♂️
Wire brush and a bit of rust converter then follow up with some cold gal paint.
Cheers mate. I’m feeling like the jobs not done!😮💨😁👍
You might have the portable solar controller already sorted but if not what I did was install two identical DCDC chargers. One is dedicated to the rooftop solar panels. The second one charges from the Anderson plug on the truck when moving as well as the portable panels when stopped
The advantage of going tis way is that having two the same gives you a spare if one fails when remote.
Having two means that when driving you get charge from the roof solar as well as the truck. This can double your charge rate.
Having a seperate solar controller for the portable panels means that it doesn’t matter if the portable panels are a different voltage to the roof panels you will get the maximum power that they can deliver.
I have a 2010 BT. I reused some existing cable that ran from the batteries to the drawbar for my DCDC charger. I suspect the factory installed it to run a fridge in the back of the tow vehicle from the van batteries. The wire gauge was a little small but it would still charge the van battery at 50 amps. The problem it did cause though was that the voltage rise on the earth return cable caused the Towpro brake controller to go into an error state. It took me quite a while to work out what the problem was. Heavier cable fixed the problem.
Picking up a used HWS cover is a good think. They are stupidly expensive new - even the crappy little plastic latch is expensive. I’ve painted mine with white heat proof paint a couple of times.
Thank you so much for the advice!
We really appreciate it. It’s amazing what you learn!
So far this is a gr8 series
🤣cheers mate 👍
I have a BT about the same age. The best fix for chine is to use angle instead of the current round chine. Much stronger. It's bound to break again on the back of the stiff truck.
Cheers! If I have any more problems with it I’ll go the angle 😁👍
Wire wheel the parts then use lpg gas torch to warm metal and go buy some Comwell galvanising bars (cig)and galvanise it properly. When it molten wire brush it to adhere and smooth the raw galv.
Thanks for the tips!
Enjoyed the video and have faith you will learn stuff quickly , if confused go here on RUclips or Google and learn from education videos people make , so easy to become a pro now with no trade skills at all , the videos show you how to do it and what you will need to do it , even electrical stuff too
clean it up with wire wheel rather than grinder
Good luck with the caravan renovations/repairs. Going to be an interesting set of videos coming up. Just on the chines. These are a very important strength addition to your A frame. They provide additional resistance to bending stress of the A frame. They are simple and a weight saving compared to increasing A frame section dimensions. You need to view the chines as a fuse. If they are broken, this indicates the A frame has been subjected to significant bending stresses. Overloading A frames with tool boxes, bike carriers, wood storage etc, plus the dynamic forces of just towing the vehicle can lead to the chines breaking through the repeated stress applied. Many kilometers of driving on heavily corrugated roads tests your caravan’s integrity. Butt welding steel that is under high tension forces needs to be done professionally as you have done. Sorry for the rant but just don’t want you having an unwanted issue on your travels.
Hey guys, love your content, just from my experience and height, The OGO is smaller in height and quantities than the Natures Head option, do your research
And fyi Installation is a breeze
Cheers for that😁👍
We can wait to say goodbye to the devils briefcase!
@@Livin_Like_Kings_ absolutely agree, we chose the natures head for the size capacity, didn’t realise my short statue, so I have a small step, Grant would be more comfortable definitely, the OGO would suite my short legs haha
Hey guys great start. As mentioned in other comments you will need to paint the a bar now.
Grant when our new van arrives you can have a play with the Airbags 😂🤣
Excited to hear you are heading back on the road.
Use a w40v drill for wire wheeling, higher rpm way better results
Grant. Absolutely NEVER argue with the barber BEFORE the haircut 😂😂😂. Great work on the van, guys 😊
😂😂
Can't wait to see you back on the road it's about time. If you've got the right licences there is tons of work out there
water blast gets rid of the dirt
Great job Grant careful not to wire wheel the gal off.
Don't wire wheel the aluminium just polish. Use gal paint on the drawbar. If you don't know stuff ask Alex did you know Alex used to build caravans lol
🤣🤣
Raptor paint it all it’ll look like new forever do it once do it right
Cool
G'day guy's looks like ya traveling well health wise ,go the low shave mate looks better om
N you, black hammer finish on A-frame and bits n Bob's, legs would look update, go hard or go home i say a nice facelift orsme.
Lookin forward to see how its going to be.
Please please don't be"ALEX" and tell us you used to build caravans loloooo😂😆😆😅
Look forward to seeing you in action, good luck.
Cheers mate!
Yeah I’m thinking the hammer tone might the go!
🤣 lots of “Alex” references 🤣👍
Looks like you’re having fun with the house renos 👍. It’ll all be worth it in the end when you’re back on the road. Should we ask if Paul now doesn’t have a hot water cover on his bush tracker? 🤣
Keep up the good work.
i would remove that bar and weld a piece of 50x50 box flat to the bottom of the other piece of box. much stronger ,if therod breaks from new it will break much easier when repaired
Rust converter and cold gal will protect the draw bar
This is going to sound harsh but I don't mean to be. Before welding metal that has been painted get all the paint off. Especially if you aren't practiced with welding. On critical work such as in this video use fresh/new GPS rods or cook the ones you have at 120-150 for at least 1 hour. You will be surprised how much moisture they can hold. Moisture makes it hard to get started and more importantly during the welding process hydrogen gets fussed into the metal making it extremely brittle. Which is probably why the first repair failed. And if you are going to continue to do welding get some proper lessons and lots of practice. Honestly you will be thanking me after. One last thing that bracing under the A frame draw bars is to prevent flexing which in turn prevents brittle fatigue which is what causes draw bars to crack and fail. When it comes to engineering there is a good reason for everything if done correctly.
If there is rust then there is no galvanising left. I suggest remove the rust then paint with a zinc rish paint to help prevent the rust returning. There is a dulux product called bright zinc I think that is pretty tough. I used it on my draw bar.
Hope to see you take out the old loo 🚻 and replace with new
Stay tuned!😁👍
Aluminium cleaner on the checker plate , remove itt from van to clean it , acids in Aluminium cleaner will destroy gal from chassis , trust me when I say it , don't let it dry on Aluminium , use stiff scrubbing brush , scrubbing acid with grains off checker plate both ways , rinse it off , be surprised by it , then repeat processes with lighter brush each time and cleaner too, now it foams up and fizzy too , this is normal and more foam mean more action on cleaning alloy , , caution where gloves good rubber gloves and glasses too , do it in open spaces outside , rinse very well when finished, , auto smart is the place to get this cleaner or other commercial suppliers for auto trades, stuff sold in stores is weak as shit , Ali King is the type I use its dark green, darker the better and more pure it is , some time suppliers water it down , when it's not watered down it's about 1.8 kg pure litre, heavy shit
Just a quick paint you’ve taken the coating off the draw bar and tool box so for protection and looks you will be happier
Cold gal paints the go. We do our every year.
If you have rust it is already at bare metal Aluclean will bring the toolbox will come up like new.
I don't want to tell you how to do your job but the draw bar would look better painted in cold gal paint to protect it and it would look a lot better.
Yeah I’m starting to think so!
I would not be wire brushing heavy, just enough to remove the dust.
Good to hear people choosing to keep their old van. Too many characters spending too much money getting new vans.
Galvanised metal is galvanised metal, right through the material mate , clean it up as much as like and but cold gal paint with a spray gun . Wagner spray guns are the best for paint scrappers mate . Penetration is important !
Hi guys, good work. But with the chequer plate aluminium. Just acid wash it it will come up bright like new alluminum with very little work. If you do that don't worry about anything underneath the area until you've done it.
This is sort of in my realm of experience as a metal worker.
If you want to ask me a question, no problems.
Cheers Bill D.
Just get some salty captain aluminium cleaner works a treat
What about paint how would the chequer plate look black
🤔 got me thinking now!
OH MY LIL HEART!!! What happened to the “luscious Locks”
Ohhhhhhh Nooooo hehehe
Hey Grant id be painting the draw bar as it's going to rust on you now ,it's looks like the wire brush has removed the galvanise . All the with the reno Mate.
after cleaning off all rust use gal paint to paint a frame
hi guys. loving the videos. loving the building and caravan reno content, too. Just wondering have you spoken to your mate "who use to build caravans" @nowornever? to get some advice on the reno 😀
the bar strap under the drawbar is designed by dumb and dumber. (not engineered competently- never was, never will be)
- you would be better to replace it with a more rigid C section of crossectional area similar to that of half of the box section crossection area. It would then have a better equiped to that can take compression as well as tension than the strap bar. ( the strap could only take tension)
- with the strap being so far from the neutral axis, it attempts to take the makority of the structural loads and will never be up for the task
all the best with your renovations
Leave as much galvanising on it as you can , galvanising was done better 20 years ago than today's stuff and paint over it , marine aluminium acid cleaner wash for boats is great for cleaning Ali and removing the black shit out off the metal then apply an Ali pollish and buff your heart out will come up shiny beautiful
Very excited to see all this guys.. Especially the toilet love those Ogos
Can’t wait for that one to go in 😀