Quick tip for the toaks. Drill every other hole in the bottom of the burn chamber a couple sizes up with a stepbit. This helps significantly with airflow and prevents the stove from choking itself out when ashes start settling. I own the small toaks wood stove and this small mod helped a bunch. The added hole size also allows this stove to use wood pellets without immediately choking itself out. I also keep two small metal hook stakes for anchoring the stove down as well as a small piece of flexible tin that can act as a base for the stove to prevent burning burning the surface under the stove.
Absolutely correct. I use it the same way. The diameter of the log should be about ¾ inch less than the diameter of the stove. The length should be below the gasification holes. The wood should be hard wood. When used in the Swedish fire torch method, I get a burn time of about 25 mins of fire and an additional 20 minutes of hot coal that can be used for grilling food. I never use pre cooked packet meals or MRE. I always cook food from scratch. Good demonstration. Subscribed to your channel. ATB, The_Solo_hiker.....
Thanks a bunch! And you're correct, it performs the best when you're not obstructing the gas flow. This is why I switched to the toaks stove initially; it's taller which allows for longer logs. In a pinch, it works as a normal firebox if the pieces are too tall, but you won't get the same kind of clean burn. It's a very versatile stove type, ime. On longer trips, I often pair it with a spirit burner (using the stove as pot stand and wind shield) in case the weather turns to poo, then I have a backup with a controllable flame I can use in the vestibule of the tent, or under the tarp in case I use my hammock. Cheers!
I usually feed my stoves almost continuously, which makes it possible to regulate the temperature efficiently, but requires more attention than your tip, but I'll give it a try 😊 The Wild Woodstove is efficient and stable, and I like it. Another good stove is the Solo, also fairly stable, but bulky. The Toaks is not stable (MHO), and I sold mine very quickly, because I found it too high, and the heat source is quite far from the pot, when there are embers. Thanks for the great demo. One more sub.
Thanks! Yeah, the Toaks is a bit wobbly, but the weight and how it stacks with my pot, pan, mug and backup spirit burner makes it worth it for these kinds of trips. :) I do still have my Wild Stove, use it occasionally.
I like the Firebox G2 , 5 inch stove. It's very versatile and you can do a lot of different things with it. Best of all you can use a Swedish fire torch in it. Using the ash plate you can have it function as a damper to control the air flow and the flame. Giving you a longer burn without having to put wood in the burning chamber all the time. I hammock camp so dry , dead , wood is always available but if there isn't any a small Trangia burner can be used.
It probably is! Much like "kåsa" vs "kukse" vs "kuksa" vs "guksi". I asked my mother and my uncle who grew up in the Hälsinge Finnmark region, and he calls them eldstubbe, but had heard of stockfackla as well. :)
@@greyscout01 The ones made from actual birch burls tend to hold water better. I assume it's because of the grain structure. I got mine from a Sami market a long time ago. Trekopp (Norse) makes very pretty ones, and the one my father bought has been good. Not sure if they sell online though. One of my fishing friends got one from Casström, I think. The knife maker. That one looks proper too.
Probably not a necessary bit of information for you, but for anyone else reading these comments; don't wash your kuksa using detergent. It does weird stuff to the wood fibers.
![Awesome Hobo Stove [ Old Miner's Design ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Yl3gxt5tVAI/mqdefault.jpg)
Quick tip for the toaks. Drill every other hole in the bottom of the burn chamber a couple sizes up with a stepbit. This helps significantly with airflow and prevents the stove from choking itself out when ashes start settling. I own the small toaks wood stove and this small mod helped a bunch. The added hole size also allows this stove to use wood pellets without immediately choking itself out. I also keep two small metal hook stakes for anchoring the stove down as well as a small piece of flexible tin that can act as a base for the stove to prevent burning burning the surface under the stove.
Oh, interesting!
Thanks!
Absolutely correct. I use it the same way. The diameter of the log should be about ¾ inch less than the diameter of the stove. The length should be below the gasification holes. The wood should be hard wood. When used in the Swedish fire torch method, I get a burn time of about 25 mins of fire and an additional 20 minutes of hot coal that can be used for grilling food. I never use pre cooked packet meals or MRE. I always cook food from scratch.
Good demonstration. Subscribed to your channel.
ATB,
The_Solo_hiker.....
Thanks a bunch! And you're correct, it performs the best when you're not obstructing the gas flow. This is why I switched to the toaks stove initially; it's taller which allows for longer logs.
In a pinch, it works as a normal firebox if the pieces are too tall, but you won't get the same kind of clean burn.
It's a very versatile stove type, ime. On longer trips, I often pair it with a spirit burner (using the stove as pot stand and wind shield) in case the weather turns to poo, then I have a backup with a controllable flame I can use in the vestibule of the tent, or under the tarp in case I use my hammock.
Cheers!
Good video. If the flames are to hot, it is often possible to put some wet or moist twigs in the oven. It Will smoke more, but the heat Will go down.
Thanks!
thanks for showing and explaining your way of using it, it can be used for many other things, the way you do it. but thanks for showing your trick
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, a very useful demo of two uses.
Glad it was helpful!
I usually feed my stoves almost continuously, which makes it possible to regulate the temperature efficiently, but requires more attention than your tip, but I'll give it a try 😊
The Wild Woodstove is efficient and stable, and I like it. Another good stove is the Solo, also fairly stable, but bulky. The Toaks is not stable (MHO), and I sold mine very quickly, because I found it too high, and the heat source is quite far from the pot, when there are embers.
Thanks for the great demo. One more sub.
Thanks!
Yeah, the Toaks is a bit wobbly, but the weight and how it stacks with my pot, pan, mug and backup spirit burner makes it worth it for these kinds of trips. :)
I do still have my Wild Stove, use it occasionally.
I like the Firebox G2 , 5 inch stove. It's very versatile and you can do a lot of different things with it. Best of all you can use a Swedish fire torch in it. Using the ash plate you can have it function as a damper to control the air flow and the flame. Giving you a longer burn without having to put wood in the burning chamber all the time. I hammock camp so dry , dead , wood is always available but if there isn't any a small Trangia burner can be used.
That *is* a very nice stove too. Very packable. My wife got the titanium version. :)
FINALLY
Great explanation, very helpful. thank you for the Swedish words; Eldstubbe,
Stockfackla.
Cheers
Glad to hear, skål!
Great video, thank you!
Thanks a lot!
Nice thanks…Have fun stay safe.
You too!
I guess it's regional... I've only heard them called Stick Stoves.
It probably is! Much like "kåsa" vs "kukse" vs "kuksa" vs "guksi". I asked my mother and my uncle who grew up in the Hälsinge Finnmark region, and he calls them eldstubbe, but had heard of stockfackla as well. :)
@SelionFieldsOutdoors Speaking of a Kuksa... is there a brand you have used that didn't leak?
@@greyscout01 The ones made from actual birch burls tend to hold water better. I assume it's because of the grain structure. I got mine from a Sami market a long time ago. Trekopp (Norse) makes very pretty ones, and the one my father bought has been good. Not sure if they sell online though. One of my fishing friends got one from Casström, I think. The knife maker. That one looks proper too.
Probably not a necessary bit of information for you, but for anyone else reading these comments; don't wash your kuksa using detergent. It does weird stuff to the wood fibers.
@SelionFieldsOutdoors Thanks. I really appreciate the information.
Over load light then add angle it
I've heard this phrase (only in English) before. Where's it from?