Interesting, but I solved the problem by buying the “Little Ripper” saw mill for my Rikon 14. It solves the set-up issues and can cut super-thin slices accurately.
Just because the piece is jammed up against the high clamp-on fence doesn't mean there will be no drift. The bandsaw needs to be properly set up first. If the piece can't move and the blade drifts from improper (or incomplete) set up, the pieces will not be uniform thickness.
heck, lay down a 3/4 plywood secondary table on the table, clamp it with the fence and you have a long infeed and outfeed platform. sand it smooth and varnish it so the resaw wood will glide along.
hey thanks good tips. Do you have any information on the stool/lift feed table you have in the video. Would love to see how that was made. Update: Hey found it on popular wood working under "double duty stool"
Have the same set up without the feather board block. Like that idea will definitely add that to my set up. In addition I use large vise grip C- clamps to hold down the fence , easier for me than the reg clamps and works for the uneven under surface of my old Rockler bandsaw.
I have this saw. It is a beast. It came badly setup however, took me several hours to get it straightened out. But u can resaw thin 1.5-2mm veneers from very tall boards.
Yup, had the same saw. Don’t expect much from the people who sold it to you, or Laguna to offer much support or any help trying to set it up. If you did get help, you won the lottery. I just went thru this the other day with mini max 20;inch bandsaw. I’ve been a furniture maker for almost 56 years and still going. I’ve work on countless machines, big , small and in between. I don’t know everything but I know a fair amount to setting up woodworking machines. I never used a bandsaw with a flat, not crowned tire before. So, I decided to call distributors who sell this machine to see it setting the bade was different on the wheel. Called at least 5. Not one could tell me or offer any help. I ended up calling SCM . USA distribution center for this and many other European machines. Went thru a long bunch of prompts to get someone only to tell me she had no idea. I asked to talk to a tech guy/ woman who could help. She could not put me thru without a complete interrogation of who I was, who i worked for how many years in business, what kind of truck I drove, my mothers middle name, you get my drift. After all that I said I just need a simple answer to one question about a machine they import and sell. There was no serial number on the machine. My friend bought it brand new. I have no idea where the serial number was. I asked how that was relevant. Could give no answer except impossible to do without that number. In my opinion, anyone who distributes or sells a machine better know damn well how it’s set up and function. I’m not talking about a bandsaw from sears, I’m talk about a European saw that Cost thousands of dollars. It boggles my mind that the 5 people I talked to and SCM had no clue. It’s like talking to a used car salesman. I finally found out through a forum I found on line. It appears customer service is not a thing after the sale.How do they stay in business is my question. A little off topic but I’m sure I’m not the only one who experiences this. Thanx for reading my rant.
Excellent video. Thank you very much. I appreciate all the information and the clear explanation of what features and techniques are important when resawing. Subscribed.
I noticed the tension arm also. I have the laguna 14-12 and on my saw that is definitely the position for the tension being "off". The arrow for tension position is clearly visible in the video. You would think that there must be a reason considering the cut that he got. As well as the fact that the man is a seasoned woodworker...smh ?
Nice and straight cut, no burn marks looks good. Used to saw purplehart all four sides with not much to work with. Scary work making sure saw would not dive into the wood. Nice clip makes me miss my old job.
I do like the setup with the block. What carbide blade did you use? I heard that unless you have an 18" wheel or larger that they are not a good idea due to increased likelihood of breaking.
Keith's Shop I've heard that too, but i think that was because there were only available carbide tip blades of 1" wide and up... but now there are even 1/2" wide blades with carbide tips. They are from Laguna. They make it for 14" bandsaws and i don't see any issue with those. There are also 3/4" carbidw tips.
I use a lenox blade with carbide teeth. Just find the length and order that length from your supplier. You can call Lenox technical support for information on blades for any application. You cannot cut curves with a carbide blade. Curves will break the teeth.
Great idea, thanks, I need to resaw some inch and a half stock that are 8 feet long to build a sliding barn door, I just hope my band saw and blade are up to the task.
boy that's just great I didn't think you could cut one that big I've been cutting small cedar logs into boards about a half inch to three quarter inch thick. couldn't help but notice there was a couple smart asses that probably don't even have a saw if they did they wouldn't know what to do with it that made comments that were totally unnecessary but that's just the type of people we have to deal with I guess
Thanks I like the block feather board. How much tension do you use & what make of blade is that. I have a lennox 1/2 carbide but have not seen your blade
Very interesting, as I am about to re saw a piece of Australian Jarrah. I have 16mm blade with 4TPI. The board is approx 250 mm X 70mm. I want to re saw three 20mm boards. Should I cut 22mm from the main fence (skinny cut) or have 40mm+ against the main fence and 22mm on the outside with the box support???
So the average woodworker has a 12" 1/2 to 1 horsepower saw , if you own a saw like yours at this point you don't need instructions how to . This video is useless !
I love the big smile when you fire the saw up and are ready to make the cut. Priceless!! It's the simple things in life. :)
I like the way you work... You have been attached to your fingers for decades. No point in separating them now.
Interesting, but I solved the problem by buying the “Little Ripper” saw mill for my Rikon 14. It solves the set-up issues and can cut super-thin slices accurately.
Just because the piece is jammed up against the high clamp-on fence doesn't mean there will be no drift. The bandsaw needs to be properly set up first. If the piece can't move and the blade drifts from improper (or incomplete) set up, the pieces will not be uniform thickness.
Great video..loved the seat come support. Do you have plans on how to make that please?
Would this be recommended for creating veneers?
heck, lay down a 3/4 plywood secondary table on the table, clamp it with the fence and you have a long infeed and outfeed platform. sand it smooth and varnish it so the resaw wood will glide along.
Is that what you did?
Sir, I appreciate this video very much, as I wish to create planks to build a wooden boat.
Very good information. I will be trying this for sure. Thank you :)
I too have this same band saw but have not seen this type of jig. Will definitely build one to use next time. Thanks for the tip!
hey thanks good tips. Do you have any information on the stool/lift feed table you have in the video. Would love to see how that was made.
Update: Hey found it on popular wood working under "double duty stool"
www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/double-duty-shop-stool/
Have the same set up without the feather board block. Like that idea will definitely add that to my set up. In addition I use large vise grip C- clamps to hold down the fence , easier for me than the reg clamps and works for the uneven under surface of my old Rockler bandsaw.
My saw is underpowered for 6” walnut and I could not manage a re-saw until I copied what you did. Bravo! It was still slow but the cut was straight!
I have this saw. It is a beast. It came badly setup however, took me several hours to get it straightened out. But u can resaw thin 1.5-2mm veneers from very tall boards.
Yup, had the same saw. Don’t expect much from the people who sold it to you, or Laguna to offer much support or any help trying to set it up. If you did get help, you won the lottery. I just went thru this the other day with mini max 20;inch bandsaw. I’ve been a furniture maker for almost 56 years and still going. I’ve work on countless machines, big , small and in between. I don’t know everything but I know a fair amount to setting up woodworking machines. I never used a bandsaw with a flat, not crowned tire before. So, I decided to call distributors who sell this machine to see it setting the bade was different on the wheel. Called at least 5. Not one could tell me or offer any help. I ended up calling SCM . USA distribution center for this and many other European machines. Went thru a long bunch of prompts to get someone only to tell me she had no idea. I asked to talk to a tech guy/ woman who could help. She could not put me thru without a complete interrogation of who I was, who i worked for how many years in business, what kind of truck I drove, my mothers middle name, you get my drift. After all that I said I just need a simple answer to one question about a machine they import and sell. There was no serial number on the machine. My friend bought it brand new. I have no idea where the serial number was. I asked how that was relevant. Could give no answer except impossible to do without that number. In my opinion, anyone who distributes or sells a machine better know damn well how it’s set up and function. I’m not talking about a bandsaw from sears, I’m talk about a European saw that Cost thousands of dollars. It boggles my mind that the 5 people I talked to and SCM had no clue. It’s like talking to a used car salesman. I finally found out through a forum I found on line. It appears customer service is not a thing after the sale.How do they stay in business is my question. A little off topic but I’m sure I’m not the only one who experiences this. Thanx for reading my rant.
Excellent video. Thank you very much. I appreciate all the information and the clear explanation of what features and techniques are important when resawing. Subscribed.
um, was the blade tension arm down during that entire operation?
I noticed the tension arm also. I have the laguna 14-12 and on my saw that is definitely the position for the tension being "off". The arrow for tension position is clearly visible in the video. You would think that there must be a reason considering the cut that he got. As well as the fact that the man is a seasoned woodworker...smh ?
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼🎉😎
what about blade drift?
At 6:30 the grain of the wood (where the two boards meet) look like a rabbit. That could make for some interesting piece of furniture.
What belt speed o you use.
Nice and straight cut, no burn marks looks good. Used to saw purplehart all four sides with not much to work with. Scary work making sure saw would not dive into the wood. Nice clip makes me miss my old job.
I do like the setup with the block. What carbide blade did you use? I heard that unless you have an 18" wheel or larger that they are not a good idea due to increased likelihood of breaking.
Keith's Shop I've heard that too, but i think that was because there were only available carbide tip blades of 1" wide and up... but now there are even 1/2" wide blades with carbide tips. They are from Laguna. They make it for 14" bandsaws and i don't see any issue with those. There are also 3/4" carbidw tips.
I use a lenox blade with carbide teeth. Just find the length and order that length from your supplier. You can call Lenox technical support for information on blades for any application. You cannot cut curves with a carbide blade. Curves will break the teeth.
Thanks Ralph.
Ok. You got the super duper mighty tool, but what about the rest of us? Will this technique work the same on a Ryobi or an old craftsman?
Shut up with your broke ass
Old craftsman yes. Ryobi maybe it has to be made for resawing
what are all the secrets for the laguna bandsaw because there is no 3hp 14" bandsaw? can you give up any updates you did do it?
Did Popular Woodworking Answer any of the questions? He should have safety glasses on.
Great idea, thanks, I need to resaw some inch and a half stock that are 8 feet long to build a sliding barn door, I just hope my band saw and blade are up to the task.
boy that's just great I didn't think you could cut one that big I've been cutting small cedar logs into boards about a half inch to three quarter inch thick. couldn't help but notice there was a couple smart asses that probably don't even have a saw if they did they wouldn't know what to do with it that made comments that were totally unnecessary but that's just the type of people we have to deal with I guess
Thanks for the contribution. This is an excellent tip that I will build inmediately.
Good video with several great tips.
Thanks I like the block feather board. How much tension do you use & what make of blade is that. I have a lennox 1/2 carbide but have not seen your blade
Thank you very much. I had never seen the use of the block on the front of the saw table like that. Very helpful training.
Your hinges on the cabinets at the back of you are different heights. 👎
You forgot to tension the blade. The tensioning arm is down in the loose position.
Blade always tends to lead off I don,t care how much you think it is going to work
Awesome. Excellent tips! Thank you
That was great, very informative, thank you
The editor didn’t say in the beginning he was using a 3-4 tooth blade so I edited it in.
I did it too. This is what I used Woodglut designs for
Very nice! The bandsaw is a must have tool in the wood shop.
Great video, what do you think of the little ripper jig from Canada?
unintentional ASMR, and excellent woodworking video too.
Very interesting, as I am about to re saw a piece of Australian Jarrah. I have 16mm blade with 4TPI. The board is approx 250 mm X 70mm. I want to re saw three 20mm boards. Should I cut 22mm from the main fence (skinny cut) or have 40mm+ against the main fence and 22mm on the outside with the box support???
Peter Compton For resawing I always set the fence to the desired thickness.
Great demo and advice. Thank you Sir!
Great Video.the infeed support? was that covered in one of the magazine's
Now that makes a lot of sense. Did you have any problem with blade drift ?
Thanks for subscribing. It means a lot when one of the big boys subscribe.
Very nice! Thank you!
Great budget bandsaw
i will learn to do the thing
Thank you. I am going to give that a go!
ExcellentT!
Nice!
Good vid, thanks.
thank you
Thank you
No tension on the blade? Lever was down.
Ah yes thanks!
On the Laguna saw the blade is tightened when you put the handle down and released when you put the handle up.
That must not be true on all Laguna saws -- on my 1412 the blade is tensioned with the handle up.
Very nice how to build. My question is did you upgrade the bandsaw yourself with a 3hp motor or did you acquire it like that?
You can buy that saw with a 3 hp motor 230v single phase.
So the average woodworker has a 12" 1/2 to 1 horsepower saw , if you own a saw like yours at this point you don't need instructions how to .
This video is useless !