Having been doing the videos for almost 10 years , I am so glad that many enjoy and learn from them ,,Every once in a while we have to remove comments that get a bit ugly. We do the video in an area that provides the best visual ability for the camera as my workbench will not allow much room for shooting videos. I often don't fumble with clamp padding as that would be another obstruction for the viewer.I would hope that people will use something for padding. Leather belts are great for this. Rest assured that when working on these things I prefer cork and leather. Wood blocks often crush the finish and cork and leather make great padding.
Wow, I didnt realize I could even stumble upon such incredibly informative videos. I must say to you Sir's, Sharing these things speaks to your graciousness. I am a passionate student of such things and you guys just Really Made My Day! I cant thank you enough as I am Very Grateful!
I put a piece of packing tape on the back of the sandpaper to avoid breakage and make it more durable. It also reduces friction on the back side of the paper
This sandpaper trick has been around a long time. I do this on the video as those looking at doing this , few know how to sharpen a chisel and if a chisel isn't shaving it isn't sharp. There are many different chisels, I prefer a 1/2 firmer chisel , I still use the sandpaper for the final fitting , and there is a technique to it. If you are getting high spots you may be pulling the sanpaper through . I do spoon out the heel area and I also will cope sand that area. When using a chisel you shave small areas and pay attention to what is holding you off and where. Often is is just a small area that can seem to be the biggest problem. I can say that take small nibbles with the chisel and cut from the out side in to shear the wood and finish.
Thanks for the video. It's all pretty straight forward except the shimming. I couldn't see where it was going (camera work wasn't so good, and you were going really fast), and I didn't get why it was going there, or what its purpose was. I must have a mental block that needs shimming.
Thanks, i have to do my d28 herringbone i made in 85 from a stew mac kit. the top lifted and im hoping it stabilized at that point. i may have scalloped the braces a little too much for the sound is great
@2:52 Ppl new to this procedure need to understand that the guitar body is amplifying the sound of the scraping to make it sound much more forceful than it actually is. This video is very informative to me & stresses exactly why it is so very important to take your time with such a tedious process. I'm sure all neck sets don't go as smoothly as this one seems to go. I'm getting ready to start a neck set on a 73 D-28 with a very experienced luthier friend of mine. He's been doing guitar work for 40+ yrs & I'm confident his experience will keep me on the right track. This video is a great tool for me to go back & pick up helpful tips to make this process go much smoother as well. How can ppl contact you for work & pricing? Great video & thanks for posting!!!!!!!
+xd451e1edcc8 thanks for the kind words I do enjoy sharing and paying forward I had a lot of help when I started and want to give back to what gave me so much.
8:54 I hate to be an arm chair luthier, but I really hope this isn't how you treat all your customers guitars. Notice all the wood chips stuck on the bottom of the guitar. That is constantly scratching the surface and leaving fine scratches at best. Maybe deep scratches, or God forgive it may cause dents at worst. The work surface should be constantly cleaned so you don't keep scraping the bottom and sides of the guitar on those wood chips. If someone is sending you a guitar for a neck reset, it is either an expensive guitar, or it has sentimental value to that person. Now if this guitar was getting completely refinished, it's another story. That being said, I enjoyed your neck reset vid. Highly informative, good commentary, and good lighting/camera work.
Um sort of agree from a certain perspective as I’m really over the top when caring for my guitars........but other than those few shavings he’s very good at his craft ! I didn’t see once any metallic tool ding the guitar back, sides or top also the clamps used are all rubberised to prevent damage
@John Doh yes it will idiot! It will 100% leave fine scratches on it. Do you have a nice guitar? Try it yourself. Throw some wood shavings on a towel and then man handle your nice guitar all over it. Lay it on its back over the shavings. See what happens. Let me guess, you won't even dare try it. You know it too, and you know why you wont try it. Seriously grow up and stop being such a fanboy. The guy is a cool luthier and I like his technique and work. But it doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. We all need to improve daily.
I must say that he is not very gentle in handling the guitar, he got me very nervous with his quick moves, but he is a professionnel luthier and he knows how to do the job.
Thank you for your time and generosity, as a furniture maker I appreciated the craftsmanship/experience. Just one question as I couldn't quite see in the video, is the Dovetail a compound i.e beveled in two planes or a simple beveled back to front [or front to back]?
I have a question Glenn. When a truss rod cant tighten anymore to straighten a guitar with string tension to dead flat. I have used a method of adding washers on the truss rod to give more torque... what is the pros and cons of this technique?? Im concerned about compression in wood at end of truss rod
Glenn LaSalle what grit paper used on sanding block? Have you even worked on other brands of guitars Harmony and Silverstone's or just Martins? Ever work on guitars made from Birch?
I have done 50+ neck resets, mostly on Harmonys and Kays, but some gibsons and guilds. I learned the StewMac method of doing the whole fitting with sandpaper, but I know that traditionally ( and at Martin) the cutting of the dovetail face is done with a chisel. I've tried this, mostly when I was starting out, and I cut gaps in the dovetail face, took chunks out it, split off the heelcap....so I went to the sanpaper method. This , too has its limitations...it tends to leave a high spot under the heel cap, and it easy to leave a gap there despite being careful not to pull up on the sandpaper strip. Now that I have some experience under my belt, I'd like to try the chisel again. It appears that having a super-sharp chisel, knowing where to remove wood and backing up the heel against the workbench are key. Here's my question: How do you get your chisels so sharp? Once again, THANK YOU for producing these videos!
mamachip sharp chisels are a must. If I’m setting a chisel up for the first time,setting angle or working out nicks ect I start with my 400g/1000g stone for the rough work to set my angle and get my edge roughed in then I go to my diamond plates and start at 1500 and work up until I’m happy with the edge and polish. Some guys use stone and leather. I’ve used leather and compounds too. High grit sandpaper and a peice of flat glass are good for your higher grit honing and polishing too. Hope this helps.
Great video. I just noticed that you don't mention that you brace the neck heel against the workbench edge while chiseling the dovetail face to avoid chipping the heel. You do this, but don't mention what you are doing and why. Very important.
You mentioned the importance or the Martin lifetime warranty- I have a D 45 I bought new at an authorized dealer. It has just started to have a problem with the binding around the waist of the body on both the upper and lower side coming loose. Would you consider that to be a warranty repair. By the way your videos are great go into a lot of detail and I appreciate the time you spend on it
they cover that so you will need to find a local Martin repair shop Martin is closed per se but we can get in touch with the customer service to ok these repairs
Thanks for the excellent videos. Three questions, if you have a minute: 1. You mentioned using a tapered shim. Why not keep the shim uniform and then treat the reset like the initial neck setting that you demonstrate in your neck setting videos ("Dovetail neck" Parts 1-5)? 2. I'm repairing a loose neck on an old Gretsch arch top acoustic. With the neck removed, I see that the dovetail angles don't mate between the body and neck, the surfaces in the block aren't even planar, and there is a lot of slop. My plan was to glue shims into the neck block on both sides to take up the slop and to give me good, flat surfaces. Then I was going set the neck like you described in your "Dovetail neck" videos. Since I need to mess with the neck block, I realize I'll need to be patient while setting and read the gaps since all the angles will probably be off a touch vs. a pristine machined block and dovetail. Am I on the right track? 3. Do you know the ideal string height above the top at the bridge for an arch top?
because you run a big risk of adding a twist to the tenon. Adjusting a shim is easier and if you make a mistake a shim is simple to replace the tenon not so much. What happens is you will have to trim at the heel to get the neck to rotate to correct the angle. A shim will be easy to adjust.
I would make the tapered sanding block and clean the neck mortise with that , then reword the neck. Adding a shim on a crooked base will not give you the best long term support. Making 10 small adjustments is better than one Awwwwwwww Darnit adjustment
The string height can vary . Look at the bridge and figure the adjustability and work using that as a gauge. If you needed a neck reset look at the bridge and see how much you think was adjusted and compensate that way You can send me an email with the bridge pic.
I use a thickness sander to make my shims if you don't have one of them a good hand plane and iron out your curls, I use .010 up to .050 in shims if your in the US call me I can help you out.
much depends on the individual instrument. Most close up once glued and clamped. If the angle change is enough I will make a tapered shim so the fretboard extension will be flat . If I have a .030 in drop off I can live with that but more than that I usually shim.
Thanks for the very useful video. I have removed a neck using StewMac's heating rod and neck removal tool. Worked really well! I'm having trouble shaving the neck though. Have used Lee Valley Tools' file sharpening jig and 1000/4000 hone but I still have trouble shaving the mahogany. Any suggestions for how to take that material off?
learning to use a chisel is a skill that takes time to perfect. While I do use them I often use the sanding tool I make. Look at my neck set addendum video and you will see the angled sanding block. I can use fine grits when working on a finished neck. You can feel free to call me
@@tippie53 Oh wow, that is a great idea. Can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in your great videos and for answering my question. I actually have two projects I am working on. Just for fun, I am resetting a neck with high action on a cheap Yamaha acoustic. This sanding block idea will work great for that one. The other project will be a little trickier. It is a Martin kit guitar that I was given years ago. As is, because of my imperfect job on the body, the action will be much too low. So I will attempt to shave down the top edge of the heal to compensate. This will be harder to remove the necessary wood with the sanding block because the fingerboard came pre-attached to the neck. Ah well, I will do my best!! One other quick question about the Martin kit project... it is not technically a dovetail joint but a slot joint with a bolt inside the body. Do I glue the joint and then tighten the bolt? Or is the bolt (without glue) meant to hold the neck to the body on its own? Many thanks!!
Hey Sir I’m replacing a neck for a Ibanez Vintage #62 but having problems finding a neck to replace it with, any suggestions or websites you may use to point me in the right way? Love your videos and thanks for the help!
Hi Glenn, Thanks for the videos. As a hobbyist I have found them to be extremely helpful. I am attempting my 1st neck reset and have a question. I noticed on the video you didn't show the heel cap removal but when you started trimming it was gone. What did you use to remove it since it was a wood to plastic joint?
Can this process hurt the intonation? Seems to me there might be a problem as the distance between the first frets and the saddle is increased more than the distance between the last frets and the saddle.
no you are misunderstanding what is happening. We are correcting the intonation issues of the neck from time and stress , so as the neck moves the action height goes up causing intonation to go sharp. Since we don't remove any wood directly under the fretboard we don't change the position of the nut in relation to the saddle. Think of it this way , the neck is hinged at the fretboard and we are not moving the nut just putting it back into the original position.
not at all and in fact it will help . As the neck rises you bend the strings to fret causing some sharpening of the intonation. Once the neck geometry is re set the intonation improves. We don't have to work much of the neck anywhere near the fretboard. That is what you cause the most change in intonation.
How come the neck was not properly set in the factory during its initial production? This happen to one of my Martins with 12 frets being exposed outside the body, fret buzz arise from 13th to 20th fret when the saddle height goes down. Those with 14 frets (the D28 Marquis) outside the body are properly set though.
the neck moves over time. Also your issue sounds like it may also been humidty issues. Hi rh raises the upper part of the top and can cause this. In this case the guitar was over 20 yrs old and this is typical age for a reset
When I measure the relief of the strings at the 12th fret and the 17th fret, I found that the relief at the 17th fret is actually lower than the relief at the 12th fret, this is where the fret buzz from 13th -20th fret come about! I wonder is this a neck angle problem? Thanks.
You are misunderstanding neck relief and action height. Neck relief is the measurement of the curve of the neck . You do this by fretting 1 and 13 then looking at the string height at the 7th fret. This should be about .004 to .009 of an inch. I think in your case you have 1 of 2 issues. My gut tells me your over humidified the guitar and the top raised. This is not uncommon. If your rh is high and you have a humidifier in the case this happens. You can check by placing a straight edge across the top in front of the fretboard. if this is allows a gap at the rim , your over humidified. If it is flat then you may need to get the neck reset. Usually when you need the reset the top deforms from the rotation of the neck block. Good news is that once you get the RH in control this should go away.
Oh sorry. You are right. I was meant to say "action height" measured at 12th and 17th fret. What seems to be the problem of my Martin in this case? I have lowered the saddle height by sand paper and resulted in good low action (fret 1 - fret 12) already. The problem is the buzzing arises (fret 13 - fret 20). Sorry to border you. I just wanted to know more the physics behind.
@@thomaslau9631 lowering the saddle will make this worse so first you have to see if this is over humdified. Once you get that straightened out the issues should resolve themselves. I do suspect humidity. What is your RH where you are and were you using a humidifier or dehumidifier?
blues creek guitars Man, you're expensive...lol. You do good work, and taught me tons. I had no idea there was a dovetail holding the neck to the body. I have a very old Yamaha classical that is very thrashed cos someone already tried to reset neck??? Lol They tried to saw the two pieces apart, but didn't get too far, to my adavantage. I don't have the proper tools yet, but this guitar deserves a second chance to be heard. Thank you.
@@tippie53 Cheers, I have a 2016 custom which is showing signs of a reset. However, its been like it is now since I bought it in 2016. I have emailed Martin customer services
Hope you understand this is a video and I don't use wood I use leather and cork. In the video it makes for a lot of fumbling. There is a big difference in video and actual working. I am hoping to educate those not experienced in these mattern. Taping off the areas would not give me an accurate replication of the joint. That is what the buffer is for. Thanks for your reply.
I agree with you, the working methods made me nervous also. I was constantly thinking there's another scuff maybe a ding. twoodfrd vids I think are the best.
Having been doing the videos for almost 10 years , I am so glad that many enjoy and learn from them ,,Every once in a while we have to remove comments that get a bit ugly. We do the video in an area that provides the best visual ability for the camera as my workbench will not allow much room for shooting videos. I often don't fumble with clamp padding as that would be another obstruction for the viewer.I would hope that people will use something for padding. Leather belts are great for this. Rest assured that when working on these things I prefer cork and leather. Wood blocks often crush the finish and cork and leather make great padding.
Wow, I didnt realize I could even stumble upon such incredibly informative videos. I must say to you Sir's, Sharing these things speaks to your graciousness. I am a passionate student of such things and you guys just Really Made My Day! I cant thank you enough as I am Very Grateful!
I put a piece of packing tape on the back of the sandpaper to avoid breakage and make it more durable. It also reduces friction on the back side of the paper
I love to watch a master craftsman at work. Thanks!
thanks glad you enjoy these videos
Fascinating, thanks for maki g these videos, I much more appreciate the work that goes into a neck reset.
Thank you for your contributions and lessons.
Thank you John, for sharing your knowledge and experience…
This sandpaper trick has been around a long time. I do this on the video as those looking at doing this , few know how to sharpen a chisel and if a chisel isn't shaving it isn't sharp. There are many different chisels, I prefer a 1/2 firmer chisel , I still use the sandpaper for the final fitting , and there is a technique to it. If you are getting high spots you may be pulling the sanpaper through . I do spoon out the heel area and I also will cope sand that area. When using a chisel you shave small areas and pay attention to what is holding you off and where. Often is is just a small area that can seem to be the biggest problem. I can say that take small nibbles with the chisel and cut from the out side in to shear the wood and finish.
Hi whats the glue you are using ?
If you don't mind hehe
Thanks Glenn for this video. Educational and skills at best. Top man!!
Thanks for the video. It's all pretty straight forward except the shimming. I couldn't see where it was going (camera work wasn't so good, and you were going really fast), and I didn't get why it was going there, or what its purpose was. I must have a mental block that needs shimming.
awesome video very useful information
Thanks, i have to do my d28 herringbone i made in 85 from a stew mac kit. the top lifted and im hoping it stabilized at that point. i may have scalloped the braces a little too much for the sound is great
Great video! Thanks for doing it and showing us the proper way it is done. You are a good instructor, and explain it very well.
Good work and good content.
Very nice video
@2:52 Ppl new to this procedure need to understand that the guitar body is amplifying the sound of the scraping to make it sound much more forceful than it actually is. This video is very informative to me & stresses exactly why it is so very important to take your time with such a tedious process. I'm sure all neck sets don't go as smoothly as this one seems to go. I'm getting ready to start a neck set on a 73 D-28 with a very experienced luthier friend of mine. He's been doing guitar work for 40+ yrs & I'm confident his experience will keep me on the right track. This video is a great tool for me to go back & pick up helpful tips to make this process go much smoother as well. How can ppl contact you for work & pricing? Great video & thanks for posting!!!!!!!
I have Blues Creek Guitars and we have a website. You may contact me through there . Glad you found this a useful video thanks
This video should have a Million views thanks for taking your time in sharing
Thank Glenn. Great video.
Thanks for paying it forward.I hope to one day to be as good as you are at guitar repair.tremendous.
I love this work
Excelent! A real good job.
Thanks for posting another excellent video!
+xd451e1edcc8 thanks for the kind words I do enjoy sharing and paying forward I had a lot of help when I started and want to give back to what gave me so much.
Great video, very good infomation
excellent video, thank you very much,
Excellent
8:54 I hate to be an arm chair luthier, but I really hope this isn't how you treat all your customers guitars. Notice all the wood chips stuck on the bottom of the guitar. That is constantly scratching the surface and leaving fine scratches at best. Maybe deep scratches, or God forgive it may cause dents at worst. The work surface should be constantly cleaned so you don't keep scraping the bottom and sides of the guitar on those wood chips. If someone is sending you a guitar for a neck reset, it is either an expensive guitar, or it has sentimental value to that person. Now if this guitar was getting completely refinished, it's another story.
That being said, I enjoyed your neck reset vid. Highly informative, good commentary, and good lighting/camera work.
Um sort of agree from a certain perspective as I’m really over the top when caring for my guitars........but other than those few shavings he’s very good at his craft ! I didn’t see once any metallic tool ding the guitar back, sides or top also the clamps used are all rubberised to prevent damage
@John Doh yes it will idiot! It will 100% leave fine scratches on it. Do you have a nice guitar? Try it yourself. Throw some wood shavings on a towel and then man handle your nice guitar all over it. Lay it on its back over the shavings. See what happens. Let me guess, you won't even dare try it. You know it too, and you know why you wont try it. Seriously grow up and stop being such a fanboy. The guy is a cool luthier and I like his technique and work. But it doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. We all need to improve daily.
I must say that he is not very gentle in handling the guitar, he got me very nervous with his quick moves, but he is a professionnel luthier and he knows how to do the job.
great video very helpful
Thank you for your time and generosity, as a furniture maker I appreciated the craftsmanship/experience. Just one question as I couldn't quite see in the video, is the Dovetail a compound i.e beveled in two planes or a simple beveled back to front [or front to back]?
glad you found this helpful
I have a question Glenn. When a truss rod cant tighten anymore to straighten a guitar with string tension to dead flat. I have used a method of adding washers on the truss rod to give more torque... what is the pros and cons of this technique?? Im concerned about compression in wood at end of truss rod
it works your good. I do the same thing.
Glenn LaSalle what grit paper used on sanding block? Have you even worked on other brands of guitars Harmony and Silverstone's or just Martins? Ever work on guitars made from Birch?
I have done 50+ neck resets, mostly on Harmonys and Kays, but some gibsons and guilds. I learned the StewMac method of doing the whole fitting with sandpaper, but I know that traditionally ( and at Martin) the cutting of the dovetail face is done with a chisel. I've tried this, mostly when I was starting out, and I cut gaps in the dovetail face, took chunks out it, split off the heelcap....so I went to the sanpaper method.
This , too has its limitations...it tends to leave a high spot under the heel cap, and it easy to leave a gap there despite being careful not to pull up on the sandpaper strip.
Now that I have some experience under my belt, I'd like to try the chisel again. It appears that having a super-sharp chisel, knowing where to remove wood and backing up the heel against the workbench are key.
Here's my question: How do you get your chisels so sharp?
Once again, THANK YOU for producing these videos!
mamachip sharp chisels are a must. If I’m setting a chisel up for the first time,setting angle or working out nicks ect I start with my 400g/1000g stone for the rough work to set my angle and get my edge roughed in then I go to my diamond plates and start at 1500 and work up until I’m happy with the edge and polish. Some guys use stone and leather. I’ve used leather and compounds too. High grit sandpaper and a peice of flat glass are good for your higher grit honing and polishing too. Hope this helps.
Great video. I just noticed that you don't mention that you brace the neck heel against the workbench edge while chiseling the dovetail face to avoid chipping the heel. You do this, but don't mention what you are doing and why. Very important.
He mentions it later at around 18 min
You mentioned the importance or the Martin lifetime warranty- I have a D 45 I bought new at an authorized dealer. It has just started to have a problem with the binding around the waist of the body on both the upper and lower side coming loose. Would you consider that to be a warranty repair. By the way your videos are great go into a lot of detail and I appreciate the time you spend on it
they cover that so you will need to find a local Martin repair shop Martin is closed per se but we can get in touch with the customer service to ok these repairs
Glenn LaSalle ever do neck resets with butt joint dowels?
Thanks for the excellent videos. Three questions, if you have a minute:
1. You mentioned using a tapered shim. Why not keep the shim uniform and then treat the reset like the initial neck setting that you demonstrate in your neck setting videos ("Dovetail neck" Parts 1-5)?
2. I'm repairing a loose neck on an old Gretsch arch top acoustic. With the neck removed, I see that the dovetail angles don't mate between the body and neck, the surfaces in the block aren't even planar, and there is a lot of slop. My plan was to glue shims into the neck block on both sides to take up the slop and to give me good, flat surfaces. Then I was going set the neck like you described in your "Dovetail neck" videos. Since I need to mess with the neck block, I realize I'll need to be patient while setting and read the gaps since all the angles will probably be off a touch vs. a pristine machined block and dovetail. Am I on the right track?
3. Do you know the ideal string height above the top at the bridge for an arch top?
because you run a big risk of adding a twist to the tenon. Adjusting a shim is easier and if you make a mistake a shim is simple to replace the tenon not so much. What happens is you will have to trim at the heel to get the neck to rotate to correct the angle. A shim will be easy to adjust.
I would make the tapered sanding block and clean the neck mortise with that , then reword the neck. Adding a shim on a crooked base will not give you the best long term support. Making 10 small adjustments is better than one Awwwwwwww Darnit adjustment
The string height can vary . Look at the bridge and figure the adjustability and work using that as a gauge. If you needed a neck reset look at the bridge and see how much you think was adjusted and compensate that way You can send me an email with the bridge pic.
Thanks for your replies. They make sense. The original bridge was lost, so I didn't want to assume the replacement bridge was correct.
Glen ,can you tell where ideally should a straight edge hit a bridge ? Just resting on the top of the bridge slot ? Awesome skill my friend !!
Great video, do you have any video that shows how you make your shims?
I use a thickness sander to make my shims if you don't have one of them a good hand plane and iron out your curls, I use .010 up to .050 in shims if your in the US call me I can help you out.
Top pro make it look easy
So what was done with the “void” on the tongue of the fretboard after the heel angle was changed ?
much depends on the individual instrument. Most close up once glued and clamped. If the angle change is enough I will make a tapered shim so the fretboard extension will be flat . If I have a .030 in drop off I can live with that but more than that I usually shim.
Thanks for the very useful video. I have removed a neck using StewMac's heating rod and neck removal tool. Worked really well! I'm having trouble shaving the neck though. Have used Lee Valley Tools' file sharpening jig and 1000/4000 hone but I still have trouble shaving the mahogany. Any suggestions for how to take that material off?
learning to use a chisel is a skill that takes time to perfect. While I do use them I often use the sanding tool I make. Look at my neck set addendum video and you will see the angled sanding block. I can use fine grits when working on a finished neck. You can feel free to call me
@@tippie53 Oh wow, that is a great idea. Can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in your great videos and for answering my question. I actually have two projects I am working on. Just for fun, I am resetting a neck with high action on a cheap Yamaha acoustic. This sanding block idea will work great for that one. The other project will be a little trickier. It is a Martin kit guitar that I was given years ago. As is, because of my imperfect job on the body, the action will be much too low. So I will attempt to shave down the top edge of the heal to compensate. This will be harder to remove the necessary wood with the sanding block because the fingerboard came pre-attached to the neck. Ah well, I will do my best!! One other quick question about the Martin kit project... it is not technically a dovetail joint but a slot joint with a bolt inside the body. Do I glue the joint and then tighten the bolt? Or is the bolt (without glue) meant to hold the neck to the body on its own? Many thanks!!
Hey Sir I’m replacing a neck for a Ibanez Vintage #62 but having problems finding a neck to replace it with, any suggestions or websites you may use to point me in the right way? Love your videos and thanks for the help!
the only place I can think of is Birconium he makes custom necks and may be able to help you
Good job! How much this repair costs? I am musician from argentina! Thank you!!
Hi Glenn, Thanks for the videos. As a hobbyist I have found them to be extremely helpful. I am attempting my 1st neck reset and have a question. I noticed on the video you didn't show the heel cap removal but when you started trimming it was gone. What did you use to remove it since it was a wood to plastic joint?
you don't want to take it off if you can help it. In this video it popped off on its own and I just reglued it later.
Rem Husted 8
Great video. I have one question though. Why do you only shim one side, not both?
it has to do with the string alignment. . I make what I need but in this case 1 shim was all it needed
Great bit of magic, take off 12 string neck put back 6 string neck. Much better idea to watch Randy Shartiger or Jerry Rosa !!!
any trouble with the truss rod
I would like to know how much would it cost to have a neck reset on a 1970 Martin d28?
$450 cover reset . Thanks again you can contact me at BluesCreekGutiars.com
Can this process hurt the intonation?
Seems to me there might be a problem as the distance between the first frets and the saddle is increased more than the distance between the last frets and the saddle.
no you are misunderstanding what is happening. We are correcting the intonation issues of the neck from time and stress , so as the neck moves the action height goes up causing intonation to go sharp. Since we don't remove any wood directly under the fretboard we don't change the position of the nut in relation to the saddle. Think of it this way , the neck is hinged at the fretboard and we are not moving the nut just putting it back into the original position.
not at all and in fact it will help . As the neck rises you bend the strings to fret causing some sharpening of the intonation. Once the neck geometry is re set the intonation improves. We don't have to work much of the neck anywhere near the fretboard. That is what you cause the most change in intonation.
Does the same height over the bridge apply to arch tops too?
arch tops are a different animal . check out this video it may help you better than I ruclips.net/video/SN67i5nqIso/видео.html
How come the neck was not properly set in the factory during its initial production? This happen to one of my Martins with 12 frets being exposed outside the body, fret buzz arise from 13th to 20th fret when the saddle height goes down. Those with 14 frets (the D28 Marquis) outside the body are properly set though.
the neck moves over time. Also your issue sounds like it may also been humidty issues. Hi rh raises the upper part of the top and can cause this. In this case the guitar was over 20 yrs old and this is typical age for a reset
When I measure the relief of the strings at the 12th fret and the 17th fret, I found that the relief at the 17th fret is actually lower than the relief at the 12th fret, this is where the fret buzz from 13th -20th fret come about! I wonder is this a neck angle problem? Thanks.
You are misunderstanding neck relief and action height. Neck relief is the measurement of the curve of the neck . You do this by fretting 1 and 13 then looking at the string height at the 7th fret. This should be about .004 to .009 of an inch. I think in your case you have 1 of 2 issues. My gut tells me your over humidified the guitar and the top raised. This is not uncommon. If your rh is high and you have a humidifier in the case this happens. You can check by placing a straight edge across the top in front of the fretboard. if this is allows a gap at the rim , your over humidified. If it is flat then you may need to get the neck reset. Usually when you need the reset the top deforms from the rotation of the neck block. Good news is that once you get the RH in control this should go away.
Oh sorry. You are right. I was meant to say "action height" measured at 12th and 17th fret. What seems to be the problem of my Martin in this case? I have lowered the saddle height by sand paper and resulted in good low action (fret 1 - fret 12) already. The problem is the buzzing arises (fret 13 - fret 20). Sorry to border you. I just wanted to know more the physics behind.
@@thomaslau9631 lowering the saddle will make this worse so first you have to see if this is over humdified. Once you get that straightened out the issues should resolve themselves. I do suspect humidity. What is your RH where you are and were you using a humidifier or dehumidifier?
I have a 1971 guild 12 string it needs a reset, how much would it cost me if I sent it to you?
Thanks!
Glenn LaSalle Ever work on Harmony's?
yes Harmony range a great deal so you have to be aware of the time period
A typical neck reset is $350 thanks for the interest
blues creek guitars Man, you're expensive...lol. You do good work, and taught me tons. I had no idea there was a dovetail holding the neck to the body. I have a very old Yamaha classical that is very thrashed cos someone already tried to reset neck??? Lol They tried to saw the two pieces apart, but didn't get too far, to my adavantage. I don't have the proper tools yet, but this guitar deserves a second chance to be heard. Thank you.
Do Martin still pay for neck resets, I hear they don't any longer?
one a one by basis if your within 3-5 yrs or so maybe but they no longer cover neck resets over 5 yrs
@@tippie53 Cheers, I have a 2016 custom which is showing signs of a reset. However, its been like it is now since I bought it in 2016. I have emailed Martin customer services
depends on the age. most after 5 years are on the owner but Martin will look at them on a one by one basis
16:27 Glad that's not my guitar.
How much do,you charge to,do,a,basic neck set.
Ian Viereck He said $400.
neck up and down, how to do?
I do that using a straight end . On resets I have to use a shim then adjust the neck tenon. The key is that the joint is self tightening.
I would have taped all the area been worked on. you make me very nervous with your use of tools.no wood blocks for the clamps. your not doing my baby.
Hope you understand this is a video and I don't use wood I use leather and cork. In the video it makes for a lot of fumbling. There is a big difference in video and actual working. I am hoping to educate those not experienced in these mattern. Taping off the areas would not give me an accurate replication of the joint. That is what the buffer is for. Thanks for your reply.
I agree with you, the working methods made me nervous also. I was constantly thinking there's another scuff maybe a ding. twoodfrd vids I think are the best.