Great videos and technical info, but I would love to see the repairs on actual cars/ trucks instead of a flat sheet of steel, the techniques become more difficult once you add a curved surface and or body lines
His test board had a light coat of sealer and paint easy to feather it's not the same on a car particularly on the German cars I worked on most of them have a rust preventive coat as well as sealer base coat and clear coat that's a lot of material to feather and many times you have to keep the area small to allow enough room for the painter to blend. I would spread the bondo right to the edge of the paint knock it down sand all scratches out of the paint than use evercoat glazing putty over the bondo and over the paint by a 1/4 inch no need to feather. They sent our preppers to an I-car class they came back saying "no more putty on the paint" the next 3 cars painted were redo's you could see a ring where the paint wasn't feathered properly. LOL the boss said "go back to how you were doing it before" In all my years I've never had a problem with a 1/4 inch of glaze over the paint I don't care what the experts say I was an expert repair man
Yeah that’s where some people disagree. Our painter always bitched when people just feathered chips scratches etc because he sow djr would buthole as he called it others call it bullseye. You can feather stuff but I feel like the odds of it showing are greater if you don’t get it feathered perfect and I think it may be harder or easier depending on how thick the paint is. I personally got in the habit of using 120-180 and at least remove the clear then use glaze and nothing shows. The only issue is if the paint ever lets go your glaze is over it so you definitely don’t want it over the clear since it’s the first to go. At the same time if the old paint lets go you have a completely different issue anyway.
I'm a paint helper I just started working 3 months ago. I just feather it out with a D.A. using 320 grit and then use 500 grit to remove the scratches and it's ready for primer. I do find it odd you're using guide coat on it because I wasn't told to use guide coat to feather it.
Guide coat is the only way to seeing. And knowing when to stop sanding. Last thing you want is to see things thru the paint. I've learned guide coat is your friend if you want to do FAST but Accurate Work. Use it any where you want to see your work Many body shops are cheap and won't want you to use another step .h
Hello do i undurstand right that the glaze can be applyed on sanded paint (P180) or bare metal without issue. The rule for bare metal for the bodyfiller is diffrent from the rule for glaze am'i wrong? Many thanks in advance
How would you go about fixing edge mapping after the primer is sprayed down? I ask because I thought i had featheredged properly but I can see some edge mapping underneath the urethane primer surfacer.
It sinks into the low spots mostly the scratches the vacuum won't pick it up as easily. It works wonders as a visual guide to help make the scratches pop
What if the dent is by a slightly curb surface not flat, does it matter if i sand up and down and left and right, or does the shape got its own form to sand it. ?
Geesus. A video about how to starve to death in a flat-rate shop. Want to get an amazing feather edge on filler, without glaze? Get a can of Rage Ultra, a roll of purple 3M 80 and a roll of purple 180, perfect your technique over decades, and get some epoxy on it. Next.
@@CesarSanchez-nu3eo Certainly there are some extra stuff here that you wont see in the body shop. I'm also an autobody apprentice as well and in the shop that I work at they don't use wax and grease remover to remove the dirt after sanding, we just use our air gun to blow it off. However, the guide coat that they show here really help you to be more accurate in your sanding. My Boss is a red seal technician and he always recommend me to use guide coat for your body filler or putty. The guide coat let you see all the low and high spot in your body filler so when you sand, you will be able to know when all your area are at the same level after sanding.
Waste, waste, waste those high dollar materials. Yeah, that's how you do it! A repair that size should have been ready for primer 10 minutes in. These guys need all you guys to use lots and lots of their product for their profit not yours.
Great videos and technical info, but I would love to see the repairs on actual cars/ trucks instead of a flat sheet of steel, the techniques become more difficult once you add a curved surface and or body lines
This is a great vid brotha smells like freedom and bald eagles when i watch a classic 3m how to video keep up the work
Honestly love these videos pls don't stop making them
These videos are great. Love the detailed explanation and video clarity
Finally step will visible bro😊
Awesome 👏 video bro what I really wanted to see is how you apply the body filler mate 👍👍👌👏✅👊✊
ruclips.net/video/ULIHoCYtGaM/видео.html
His test board had a light coat of sealer and paint easy to feather it's not the same on a car particularly on the German cars I worked on most of them have a rust preventive coat as well as sealer base coat and clear coat that's a lot of material to feather and many times you have to keep the area small to allow enough room for the painter to blend. I would spread the bondo right to the edge of the paint knock it down sand all scratches out of the paint than use evercoat glazing putty over the bondo and over the paint by a 1/4 inch no need to feather. They sent our preppers to an I-car class they came back saying "no more putty on the paint" the next 3 cars painted were redo's you could see a ring where the paint wasn't feathered properly. LOL the boss said "go back to how you were doing it before" In all my years I've never had a problem with a 1/4 inch of glaze over the paint I don't care what the experts say I was an expert repair man
Yeah that’s where some people disagree. Our painter always bitched when people just feathered chips scratches etc because he sow djr would buthole as he called it others call it bullseye. You can feather stuff but I feel like the odds of it showing are greater if you don’t get it feathered perfect and I think it may be harder or easier depending on how thick the paint is. I personally got in the habit of using 120-180 and at least remove the clear then use glaze and nothing shows. The only issue is if the paint ever lets go your glaze is over it so you definitely don’t want it over the clear since it’s the first to go. At the same time if the old paint lets go you have a completely different issue anyway.
Why not put guide coat on until you are on last stage? After the 150 and 180 grit....seems pointless to use at the first sanding
I'm a paint helper I just started working 3 months ago. I just feather it out with a D.A. using 320 grit and then use 500 grit to remove the scratches and it's ready for primer. I do find it odd you're using guide coat on it because I wasn't told to use guide coat to feather it.
Guide coat is the only way to seeing.
And knowing when to stop sanding.
Last thing you want is to see things thru the paint.
I've learned guide coat is your friend if you want to do FAST but Accurate Work. Use it any where you want to see your work
Many body shops are cheap and won't want you to use another step .h
@@MindDezign I usually feel the edge with my finger tips know if it's been feather out but everyone has their own method.
I find guide coat to be super useful when re-creating body lines.
Hello do i undurstand right that the glaze can be applyed on sanded paint (P180) or bare metal without issue. The rule for bare metal for the bodyfiller is diffrent from the rule for glaze am'i wrong? Many thanks in advance
Yes ! You are correct.
Many thanks for you answer and attention. I appreciate that.
How would you go about fixing edge mapping after the primer is sprayed down? I ask because I thought i had featheredged properly but I can see some edge mapping underneath the urethane primer surfacer.
Great vid and I appreciate all the tips - fyi around 2:20 you begin sanding and you're not wearing your mask ;-)
Why does it keep saying 80 then 280 which is it
What benefit is your dry guide coat when your dust collection systems picks it all up?
Still shows you if you have any low spots and highs
It sinks into the low spots mostly the scratches the vacuum won't pick it up as easily. It works wonders as a visual guide to help make the scratches pop
ojala hicieran estos videos en español
Hello good products. I use them and they make the process easier for me. Are your towels 3m or what brand are they? Greetings from Mexico.
Why did you guide coat when you leveled it out with 80 grit? seems like a waste of guide coat.
What if the dent is by a slightly curb surface not flat, does it matter if i sand up and down and left and right, or does the shape got its own form to sand it. ?
That's why you block it. You can get convex and concave blocks. Work with the shape
Why do u say 80 and then 280
Dry guide coat.
Is that a sanding block with a vacuum or is it an air powered sander with vacuum?
It’s a Festool vacuum sanding block connected to a Festool hose and dust extractor.
Hi Andy. Tom used the Festool Total Automotive Sanding System. You can check it out here:
www.3mcollision.com/festool
Geesus. A video about how to starve to death in a flat-rate shop. Want to get an amazing feather edge on filler, without glaze? Get a can of Rage Ultra, a roll of purple 3M 80 and a roll of purple 180, perfect your technique over decades, and get some epoxy on it. Next.
Im an apprentice to autobody .. here in my shop no one applies dried guide coat ? and all that extra stuff any tips?
@@CesarSanchez-nu3eo Certainly there are some extra stuff here that you wont see in the body shop. I'm also an autobody apprentice as well and in the shop that I work at they don't use wax and grease remover to remove the dirt after sanding, we just use our air gun to blow it off. However, the guide coat that they show here really help you to be more accurate in your sanding. My Boss is a red seal technician and he always recommend me to use guide coat for your body filler or putty. The guide coat let you see all the low and high spot in your body filler so when you sand, you will be able to know when all your area are at the same level after sanding.
This is a video about how to do it right, not how to fuck around for decades before kinda-sorta getting it right.
Lazy prep leads to shite work.
Thats exactly how we do it at the shop i work at and never had a problem
3
This proudest don’t need the EP?
Waste, waste, waste those high dollar materials. Yeah, that's how you do it! A repair that size should have been ready for primer 10 minutes in. These guys need all you guys to use lots and lots of their product for their profit not yours.
All this would be better if this sandpaper would stick to a f****** block
Nice video, a little less serious / more cheerful attitude would have made it nicer...
Waaw it looks like a cooked egg
How many times do you need to plug the brand? We are very aware that you're using 3M products, so there's no need to shove it down our throats.
Thats what I'm saying lol
Why not Eastwood products like Contour
Why the annoying music.