Thanks. I learned so much that i have a perfect running 1969 r60s. I rebuilt engine watching your video many times and do the job step by step and IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!
Just for those that don't know, the magneto setting is to ensure that the current through the coils is at max when the points open. If its not right, can make starting a bit more difficult. One mod I did on my R69s was a pair of relays for the headlight and a return line from headlight to batt neg, improved night riding some what, wished it had 12v electrics. Lovely old bike,
Hi Nate, The blue synthetic grease is available at any auto parts store. The copper anti-seize paste that I use is from Wurth and is very expensive. You can find lesser quality copper at your local auto parts store. Thanks & good luck, Chris
One of the few RUclips videos where I've seen a safe and correct kick start technique ie prodding the leaver and lifting your foot immediately in the event of a kick back. John Surtees was the only other one I've seen
At our Princess Auto (just like your Harbour Freight) I found a small hobby hammer made by Enkay ( a hobby tools maker) that has 5 screw in hammer faces steel (flat and ball peen), bronze and silicone, The right face is good for light taps, or on/near finishes you don't want to mar with a heavy steel head (when I miss) The hammer shaft is thin but long, easier get into tight spots.
I owe you a very big thanks , I now have big blue sparks at the plugs , after changing the caps , no power was getting through as too many ohm thingeys got in the way . I would love it if you did session on the old carbs to stop them leaking fuel ..thanks heaps !
My Clymer manual gives some wrong information: Says to adjust ignition timing, loosen the 2 nuts on either side of the magneto & rotate the magneto...which does change the timing but also changes the magneto timing away from the "hot spot" & you may lose the spark completely (happened to me). They don't even mention turning the points plate.
Hi Chris. I have a question about actually setting the points timing. My magneto line is perfect. To fine tune the points gap requires turning the elliptical screw. To adjust the ignition timing requires loosening the screws on the points base plate. All three of these screws seem inaccessible without removing the centrifugal advancer. How do you loosen and tighten the points base plate in order to make adjustments to the ignition timing without removing the centrifugal advance. Even my smallest right angle screwdriver won't get me there. Thanks in advance for your help. Chris
Very nice video!It is helped me a lot.If i may can i ask you to make a video how to repair the kickstarter string .It's difficult to me to dissaseble the rear drive .Thanks in advance
Chris, what is the stuff called, and where would I get : blue synthetic bearing grease, and the copper anti seize you refer to in other videos? Are those bmw products? Your videos are just awesome. great help for me here in Minnesota, with my new to me 76 R60/6.
Chris, great video as always and that bike looks amazing. Kind of a new guy on airhead maintenance, so pardon the dumb question - what are you using for the timing light? I'm in a similar general tune-up on a new-to-me 74 R90/6 and most of what i'm reading says that timing should be done prior to carb synching etc. thanks man, as always, i'm learning a ton from your videos!
Good day sir. I also have a bmw r50 and i am having a hard time with tuning its new carburetor. The problem is that the spark plug gets too much oil and re-starting the bike is more difficult from the cold start.
If the spark plug is becoming oil fouled you'll need to address the oil burning issue before you'll be able to tune it properly. I wish you luck, Chris.
@@josecaldamo6401 If you have oil on your spark plugs that is an indication that the engine is tired and burning oil. I'd suggest a book to help you: barringtonmotorworkspublications.com/gallery.php?sid=14&gid=97
I know this video is old but am wondering why you disconnect the battery to work on a Magneto ignition? I drove this style BMW back in the 60s and 70s. The magneto system is independent of the battery and in no way is dependent on the battery for its operation. The voltage of the battery has nothing to do with Magneto and there is no 6 volt magneto system as it is not connected to the battery.
I have done everithing like in the video but I always get F in the window.... If I put 29 degres forward on strobo, only then I get S in the window. Its BMW R672. It start but wery hard. Can someone help me?
Very nice job Chris. I've read some real horror stories about maintenance issues on these bikes, pistons and valves etc. How much trouble are they to keep running correctly and on the road?
Rotating the magneto body does NOT set the timing of the ignition. It changes the so-called "Abriss" - which is the point in time when the magnetic field collapses. To change the ignition timing you have to loosen the base plate of the breaker and rotate the base plate after you have checked the point gaps.
I have done everithing like in the video but I always get F in the window.... If I put 29 degres forward on strobo, only then I get S in the window. Its BMW R672. It start but wery hard. Can someone help me?
Dude THanks for the still pics..I tried reading the shop manual on how to do this and couldn't figure it out..this was a spot on vid.
Thanks. I learned so much that i have a perfect running 1969 r60s. I rebuilt engine watching your video many times and do the job step by step and IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!
Just for those that don't know, the magneto setting is to ensure that the current through the coils is at max when the points open. If its not right, can make starting a bit more difficult.
One mod I did on my R69s was a pair of relays for the headlight and a return line from headlight to batt neg, improved night riding some what, wished it had 12v electrics. Lovely old bike,
Hi Nate, The blue synthetic grease is available at any auto parts store. The copper anti-seize paste that I use is from Wurth and is very expensive. You can find lesser quality copper at your local auto parts store. Thanks & good luck, Chris
Chris & Barbara's book is simply amazing and well worth the cost.
hi man.I'm in china now.i need you help.i can' t find oil filter. where is it?
Hi, Go to Sears or wherever tools are sold (Auto Parts Store) and buy an inductive timing light. That's all you'll need in this case. Thanks, Chris
One of the few RUclips videos where I've seen a safe and correct kick start technique ie prodding the leaver and lifting your foot immediately in the event of a kick back. John Surtees was the only other one I've seen
At our Princess Auto (just like your Harbour Freight) I found a small hobby hammer made by Enkay ( a hobby tools maker) that has 5 screw in hammer faces steel (flat and ball peen), bronze and silicone, The right face is good for light taps, or on/near finishes you don't want to mar with a heavy steel head (when I miss) The hammer shaft is thin but long, easier get into tight spots.
I owe you a very big thanks , I now have big blue sparks at the plugs , after changing the caps , no power was getting through as too many ohm thingeys got in the way . I would love it if you did session on the old carbs to stop them leaking fuel ..thanks heaps !
My Clymer manual gives some wrong information: Says to adjust ignition timing, loosen the 2 nuts on either side of the magneto & rotate the magneto...which does change the timing but also changes the magneto timing away from the "hot spot" & you may lose the spark completely (happened to me). They don't even mention turning the points plate.
Hi Chris. I have a question about actually setting the points timing. My magneto line is perfect. To fine tune the points gap requires turning the elliptical screw. To adjust the ignition timing requires loosening the screws on the points base plate. All three of these screws seem inaccessible without removing the centrifugal advancer. How do you loosen and tighten the points base plate in order to make adjustments to the ignition timing without removing the centrifugal advance. Even my smallest right angle screwdriver won't get me there. Thanks in advance for your help. Chris
Chris where can I buy needle and seats for my 66 r 50/2 both of my bings leak.. can I tap a ball bearing on the seat ?
Very nice video!It is helped me a lot.If i may can i ask you to make a video how to repair the kickstarter string .It's difficult to me to dissaseble the rear drive .Thanks in advance
Chris, what is the stuff called, and where would I get : blue synthetic bearing grease, and the copper anti seize you refer to in other videos? Are those bmw products? Your videos are just awesome. great help for me here in Minnesota, with my new to me 76 R60/6.
Chris, great video as always and that bike looks amazing.
Kind of a new guy on airhead maintenance, so pardon the dumb question - what are you using for the timing light? I'm in a similar general tune-up on a new-to-me 74 R90/6 and most of what i'm reading says that timing should be done prior to carb synching etc. thanks man, as always, i'm learning a ton from your videos!
HI Chris, What is the name of the channel lock plyers you used to remove the spark plug caps? Thanks
Good day sir. I also have a bmw r50 and i am having a hard time with tuning its new carburetor. The problem is that the spark plug gets too much oil and re-starting the bike is more difficult from the cold start.
If the spark plug is becoming oil fouled you'll need to address the oil burning issue before you'll be able to tune it properly. I wish you luck, Chris.
@@ChrisR.Harris How do i do that sir? Whats the first thing to do?
@@josecaldamo6401 If you have oil on your spark plugs that is an indication that the engine is tired and burning oil. I'd suggest a book to help you: barringtonmotorworkspublications.com/gallery.php?sid=14&gid=97
@@ChrisR.Harris ok thank you sir.
Sir does shops still have W240TI and BERU 240/14 spark plugs now? I think I also have a problem with the spark plugs
Nice video..... why didnt you adjust the points in the video?
I know this video is old but am wondering why you disconnect the battery to work on a Magneto ignition? I drove this style BMW back in the 60s and 70s. The magneto system is independent of the battery and in no way is dependent on the battery for its operation. The voltage of the battery has nothing to do with Magneto and there is no 6 volt magneto system as it is not connected to the battery.
I have done everithing like in the video but I always get F in the window.... If I put 29 degres forward on strobo, only then I get S in the window. Its BMW R672. It start but wery hard. Can someone help me?
Very nice job Chris. I've read some real horror stories about maintenance issues on these bikes, pistons and valves etc. How much trouble are they to keep running correctly and on the road?
They require serious commitment and dedication. A thick bank account helps immensely!
Nice! I won't go to harbor freight... I have no space left in my toolbox! ;)
i have a r60 , 1959, my problem is the time, good video, tomor, start the reparation, i think, will start the machine, he have 15 year not on,
Rotating the magneto body does NOT set the timing of the ignition. It changes the so-called "Abriss" - which is the point in time when the magnetic field collapses. To change the ignition timing you have to loosen the base plate of the breaker and rotate the base plate after you have checked the point gaps.
I have done everithing like in the video but I always get F in the window.... If I put 29 degres forward on strobo, only then I get S in the window. Its BMW R672. It start but wery hard. Can someone help me?
@@69esi Get the BMW manual - it describes nearly perfectly the tech.
@@bmwr5086 fixed.... thanks
I have a 55 R50 and I just replaced coil, condenser, wires and plugs....NO SPARK... Points look good. Whats next? Great video by the way...
with time and heat the magnets in the "magneto" go flat and will need to be recharged so to speak by an electrics shop
@@richardmann800 no just replace the battery duh
You forgot to set the points gap before setting the timing !!!
How to contact you？facebook ?i need you help
The technical information is good … the Mass hole attitude is just annoying !