I started off thinking this was yet another video covering the bleedin' obvious but theres some good practical advice and tips here, thanks for posting!
I'm very impressed in how you manage your ropes with the slings it keeps it organized and less of a rats nest. I've taken many courses and no one ever has shown me that. I will be using that technique from now on. Thanks!!
You are a life saver! I was trying to figure out alone how to make extendable quick-draws... dropped one carabiner while climbing... found your video! hahahah
Really nice video. I have a question, is there any negative to keeping your slings stored twisted like that (@ 2:08)? Does the twisting have any negative effects on the fibers of the slings?
Uh oh... at 3:13 he tied a knot in dynema, very bad! That can break if shock loaded. DMM has a great video of the effects of shock loading on knotted dynema
yes but this is short and taught so no problem - the DMM video is about falling weights on a slack line; shock loading = bad. Always keep belay slings taught.
I know webbing and dyneema webbing is best for slings. But can you use for example static cord rated at 14 Kn doubled through each carabiner as a a quickdraw? In case you haven't got enough of dyneema Quickdraws? Any reply appreciated?
He called a threat a bomber anchor. I’m not saying not to use it, and I’m not saying people haven’t died using actually bomber safety, but come on. There are too many stories of people dying because they used a thread while both caving and climbing to ever call one bomber.
Its pretty safe as long as you don't shock load it. Has a lot of advantages too. www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108738915/consensus-on-knots-in-slings
very sorry to burst your bubble...you have put up this clip showing ways to endanger ppls lives. if you're qualified that amounts to attempted murder ! you just CANNOT use any types of sling(s) to make an anchor, whereby the sling(s) contains any knot(s) as the anchor will snap under fall factor 2 conditions !!!
please note the final anchor should be capable of at least 3 tons ..ie 30 Kn under shock load of a fall factor 2 thus it should also have 2 carabiners with opposing gates at the end .....
I started off thinking this was yet another video covering the bleedin' obvious but theres some good practical advice and tips here, thanks for posting!
I'm very impressed in how you manage your ropes with the slings it keeps it organized and less of a rats nest. I've taken many courses and no one ever has shown me that. I will be using that technique from now on. Thanks!!
same with every material. A knot reduces the strength of a sling, but it is still string enough. You just need to be aware of it.
No. Don't do this. It saws your slings. Never rub fabric on fabric. Your sling can be damaged this way.
You are a life saver! I was trying to figure out alone how to make extendable quick-draws... dropped one carabiner while climbing... found your video! hahahah
Awesome video! Very informational. Thorough, yet concise. Great work!
great information, well presented, useful, concise - thank you.
Good idea to hang the ropes, thanks.
Very good video - I've always wanted to know how to triple up to make a quickdraw and release it without a loop on the top biner.
Excellent !
Thank you so much! excellent video
Great vid, thanks!
Very useful, great video!
Nice one that's a really useful video
Really nice video. I have a question, is there any negative to keeping your slings stored twisted like that (@ 2:08)? Does the twisting have any negative effects on the fibers of the slings?
none whatsoever (spoken as a polymer chemist...)
There's the negative of the slings becoming harder to deploy with one hand, but as Al Heeley said it will not compromise the integrity of the sling.
I'm a newbie, but seems like it might be easier to backclip due to the sling twisting on your alpine quickdraw when you don't want it to.
Uh oh... at 3:13 he tied a knot in dynema, very bad! That can break if shock loaded. DMM has a great video of the effects of shock loading on knotted dynema
yes but this is short and taught so no problem - the DMM video is about falling weights on a slack line; shock loading = bad. Always keep belay slings taught.
This is very standard and safe as long as you keep the anchor loaded. Lean back!
I know webbing and dyneema webbing is best for slings. But can you use for example static cord rated at 14 Kn doubled through each carabiner as a a quickdraw? In case you haven't got enough of dyneema Quickdraws? Any reply appreciated?
Pretty useful tips :)
Why not just tie the rope directly to the rock thread using a rope protector?
Thumbs up for a accent to my ears
Changed my opinion on slings! dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
He called a threat a bomber anchor. I’m not saying not to use it, and I’m not saying people haven’t died using actually bomber safety, but come on. There are too many stories of people dying because they used a thread while both caving and climbing to ever call one bomber.
knotting dyneema and building an anchor off it, is not recommended.
Its pretty safe as long as you don't shock load it. Has a lot of advantages too. www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/108738915/consensus-on-knots-in-slings
Do not rub your rope against a sling like you showed for top belay. You will rope saw the sling and compromise its integrity. Do NOT do this.
very sorry to burst your bubble...you have put up this clip showing ways to endanger ppls lives. if you're qualified that amounts to attempted murder ! you just CANNOT use any types of sling(s) to make an anchor, whereby the sling(s) contains any knot(s) as the anchor will snap under fall factor 2 conditions !!!
please note the final anchor should be capable of at least 3 tons ..ie 30 Kn under shock load of a fall factor 2 thus it should also have 2 carabiners with opposing gates at the end .....
Your back will snap under fall factor 2 conditions...