I have been waiting for a video just like this to come out. Very grateful for the time you invested to make it. It will be a great help to me when I do mine at the end of this upcoming season.
Just got done doing this and here are a couple pointers. Had to order Loctite 243 as couldn't find it. 242 was generally available, not 243. You can get triple-guard grease at a BRP/Canam dealer. The jet pump grease comes in a tube for models that use grease instead of oil and you won't have any leftover when you are done. It's XPS stuff at the dealer. Definitely replace the O rings. The freezer trick works really well for removing the ring. When putting it back on, I had the best luck with both the pump and ring at room temp. It may seem impossible and like it will never go, but use a 2x6 or so and with the right starting whack with a mallet, it will go down. When aligning the pump for reassembly, you'll be able to use your hand from the top above the pump to guide it in place. Best of luck! Overall fun project and great video!!!
Thank you for the video. Just one warning to everyone: find a very cold freezer. I tried twice on a freezer set to about 32F and the wear ring didn’t shrink enough. After placing it in a colder freezer (20F), it was much easier.
Hey man thanks for the video that was very helpful! I had somes question tho ! When reassemble everthing togheter, it was making a weird sound, and my ibr is struggling to go up or down. Could it be because i didn’t use the exact lbs/ft with the torque wrench ? Could u recommand some torque wrench for me, in fact 1/4 because i had a 3/8 and there was no place to work with. And in my place i don’t have any good place from where to buy. Thanks alot man !
It could be your torque settings. You can find some good torque wrenches at our website at www.3ftdeepsports.com. It’s more likely, however, that it wasn’t assembled properly. Make sure your actuator arm is correctly attached to the iBR. Good luck!
I have a 05 seadoo rxp, I took the old ring out no problem, but the new ring (267000372) is to big and wont fit no matter how much I freeze it, I believe it's a 159mm ring, you think it's a 155mm? Ps aluminum pump housing.
The new ones can be much tighter than the old ones and very difficult to get in. Before you push it any further, make absolutely sure that’s the right one for your machine. it may also be that it was made too large, and you’ll need to need to exchange it for another one. Call your dealer to verify. Good luck.
Love the vids but was wondering why you didn't choose a stainless steel wear ring??. From what I read better performance and can handle sticks with no damage compared to a plastic one.
The wear ring is a sacrificial part. It is meant to take the wear that the impeller might otherwise take. It would probably be better if you got a stick in there, but worse if you got a large rock like happened to us recently.
Very helpful video. One thing you should remove immediately though is you say to torque down the impeller shaft cover to 66 ft lbs. That just stripped my threads and cracked the cone mounts….
@@3ftDeepChannel aaaahhhhh yes… clearly I’m an idiot lol. Thanks for clarifying. I went back and rewatched it. Not being a mechanic I assumed the video melt to set my torque wrench to ft lbs. not INCH lbs.. I guess you live and learn. Again. Super helpful videos! I really do appreciate the guidance. And also thanks for responding so quickly. Side note, I can’t believe the Seadoo dealership near me told me that my 2013 wakepro215 with 98 hours on it is considered a relic…
Don’t beat yourself up. It’s a very common mistake. In later videos we start using N.m. torque values to try to avoid this potential issue. Sounds like your dealership wants to sell you another machine! Make sure you stay on top of that supercharger. Machines of that year required supercharger rebuilds about every 175 hours or every 5 years …whichever comes first. Good luck with your wrenching and stay safe.
@seanieg powersport equipment typically has about a 10 year lifespan as certain parts are no longer in production. Ask anyone who tries to restore or repair a 15 year or older motorcycle 😅
Hello, i have a 2004 seadoo sportster 4 tec supercharged; I have recently damaged the intake grate, do you have a video showing the steps to replace. Should I use silicon on the perimeter before attaching and what loctite should i use. Also the torch strength. Thank you in advance, and great video!
I don't have the manual for my model, but for the 2012 GTR 215 the screws need to be torqued to 18 lbf.ft. They don't suggest Loctite because they recommend using NEW screws after removal. They also say to torque them down in a specific order: 1st the big, solitary one, then the other 3 going counter-clockwise, ending with a second torque of the biggest screw. No silicone recommended. Good luck.
Probably one like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B01AY0JF42/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdeepsports-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=6cc8819373a2df9b7f1429170f02fcba&creativeASIN=B01AY0JF42. CDI are also very good value.
Anthony Giovino I just found your comment, sorry. I would look on Amazon or eBay. Otherwise, you may have to go to your dealer ($$$!!). If you're handy, you could even make one. I'm using a plate for an older model I have that doesn't fit perfectly, but it'll do the job. Good luck!
Anthony Giovino I couldn't find it either, ended up getting raped from the dealer for it ($170.00 CAD), I may look into getting some copies made up on a water jet table to both reduce my initial cost and provide an affordable solution to the average diy'er
I very much appreciate this video, I am about to replace the wear ring on my 2010 Speedster jet boat. I see that Triple Guard grease is being used and this is also specified in the manual, however I can't find this in Canada, I am in Ontario. Is there a comparable alternative or do you have any idea where I could buy it other than from the states. Thanks, really appreciate all the 3ftDeep videos I have watched. It sure helps with doing all the hands on work for my jet boat.
We live in Canada too, and were eventually able to find some. It's available on our Amazon store, but unfortunately it comes from the US (www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYH6AW/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=14aae46556cc964b84f152508a5edc2e&creativeASIN=B001KYH6AW). It's really a unique product, so I would stick with it. Try a marine store near you, if you can't find it online. If I can find an online supplier, I'll link it on our website. Good luck!
Hello, which do you think is better, the stainless steel propeller from the company solas or the original one from the Sea Doo, and which is better with the plastic or stainless steel wear ring? Thank you.
After certain modifications to your machine changing the impeller makes sense, but it’s important to consider that the engineers at BRP built your machine from scratch and know it best. So, in our opinion OEM parts almost always work best with stock setup. But if you’re into racing and increasing performance …
Where did you go to get the O-rings, impeller O-ring, outlet adapter O-ring and in another video you had the friction sleeves replaced on the IBR! I looked in description and it gives links to Amazon for loctite and bearing grease but nothing for O-rings. Has part numbers but how do you use that?
Hey 3 Deep. Why don’t you assemble everything onto the pump, then install it all together. Or at least the cone on the pump while it’s on the bench. Just curious
Hey, Scott. That's a good question. That video was made a long time ago, so I don't remember the details. But some times we piece together scenes from more than one repair/maintenance job (hence the clothing, hair changes, etc.) to make a video. So you're right. It's better to assemble everything you can while it's on the bench and then install it as a unit. Thanks for your comment.
What size tap is needed for the pump housing? I just pulled mine today and am waiting on parts. Mine has a lot of white build up on the bolts and holes. Thank You
Hi im replacing the wear ring on my 08 speedster 150 215 and noticed after removing the jet pump that on the pump support there is a exhaust water restriction washer and beside it are 2 smaller holes that look like there should be o rings but they are missing. On the parts look up for a 08 rxt it shows them but for the 08 boat it doesnt. On a forum some one said they arent required on the boats since they do not have any siphon automatic bilge like the skis do. Do you guys know the correct answer to this before i re assemble? Thanks
It looks like there should be 2 O-rings, if I understand what you’re saying. They may still be on the pump, and not on the pump support. Check out the Sea-Doo parts finder catalog to confirm: shop.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/?aribrand=SEA_DOO_EN_CA_CAD .
resqme49 It depends on how much you get stuck up the pump when riding (like rocks, sticks, etc.), and how much damage results. I replaced mine at 116 hrs and it probably didn't need it (not as much damage as I thought). Even without obvious damage though, it's a good idea to replace it when the space between the impeller and the wear ring exceeds 0.35 mm (0.014 in), to ensure you have maximum propulsion. I'd say replacing it every 100-150 hrs is a good idea. I'll find out when the season starts if it made much difference with my machine. I suspect it will. Thanks for your comment.
As for the supercharger, the older models needed changing between 50 and 150 hrs, but the new ones (2012 and newer) can last for 200 hrs. I'm planning on doing my supercharger at 200 hrs.
The maximum distance I'd ever try to go on my 2012 GTR 215 is 100km. And that's using a mixture of different modes, including Touring mode. When I start getting low though, I switch to "Eco" mode, and that makes a huge difference. It makes your machine feel unresponsive, but it really saves on gas. I wouldn't try it, but I'd guess I could do 120km in pure Eco mode.
3ftDeep Thanks for the response, My buddies and me are going to go on a 50 mile run in May (West Palm Beach to West End Bahamas), a couple of them have made that trip before and its exactly 52 Miles from the dock at West Palm Beach to the Customs Office in West End Bahamas(They have a gas pump there) and just wanted to make sure I could make the run with out Having to put gas in the middle of the trip.
Kelsy Blanco Wow, I'm really jealous. That is the perfect ride that Chris and I dream of making. Although you should be able to make the trip on a tank of gas in touring mode, if you start fooling around in sport mode for a bit, you may be pushing it. I'd bring a small can of gas in the front storage compartment, just in case. Have fun!
we have a 2003 GTX 4-TEC S/C and it only gets up to 43 mph and struggles to get to 20mph with 3 people on it, would replacing the wear ring and intake grate fix the issue my theory is that the pump isn’t getting enough water at low speeds and the wear ring is in need of a replacement
also regardless of rpm with 3 people on it if it’s not over 15 mph it won’t accelerate at all even when flooring it, you have to keep it in the 4-5 rpm range to get it above 15
You have an older machine, so if you haven't replaced your wear ring in a while, it's likely due for a change. Also, your impeller could be damaged/worn and could need reconditioning. Another thing to consider is your supercharger. If it hasn't been rebuilt in the last 150 hours or 5 years (whichever is less), it's time to do do a rebuild on that. That's where we'd start. Good luck.
i just bought a solas wear ring and im having a real har time putting it in i already meassure it thinking i got the wrong one but is exact same as the one i pulled out it came out so easy, dont get it any tips
Some of those wear rings are a very tight pressure fit. If you're absolutely certain it's the right one, it may take a bit of "convincing" to go in. Last time we needed to use a hammer and a 2x4. If you do use force like that, make sure it's going in evenly. Also, make sure there aren't any retaining screws preventing it from going in. Good luck.
Hello i have a seadoo rxt of the 2008 Maybe you can tell me which are the two oring that change if you know the number to buy on ebay, I'm from Ecuador greetings and thanks
Our machine took M8 X 30 screws, so we used that tap, but you'll need to confirm for your machine as they are known to change from machine to machine over time. Good luck.
I've only ever heard a rumor of one "sinking", and that was an aS model (i.e. with suspension). It was during a storm, it was left moored without a cover, and water got into the hull. I had the hull of my 2003 GTX full of water and it only partially "sank". In other words, mine didn't actually sink to the bottom of the ocean, they just end up "bobbing" on an angle. It takes a breach of the hull sealing mechanism(s) for that to happen, though.
It depends on the model of machine. Check Sea-Doo’s parts catalog for the expanded diagram of your pump system to see if you could strip anything. The fear is stripping bolt studs anchored in fiberglass. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you for your answer, It's a 2003 seadoo GTX 155 wake. I believe the bolt goes thru I will try to remove the bolt from the other side and pull it out and replace it. Great video by a great person.
We use a socket with an extension. I don't think mine is a deep socket, but if yours doesn't fit, you should go buy one. You can buy them individually at most hardware stores for about $10.
I think it's about 112 hours. I bought it when it had 16 hours on it, so I wasn't involved in the break in process. It's a fantastic machine - make sure you maintain it! Thanks for your comment. Next up will be a supercharger rebuild (required at 200 hrs).
3ftDeep when I first got it on the water it would not go above 35MPH(with green key) now at 7 HRS it does about 45-48 but the supercharger has not kicked in yet sense I'm still on the green key, when I get to 8 HRS I will start using the normal key and Start working the supercharger. Where do you guys ride it seems to be up north somewhere me and my buddies ride here in south Florida(Manatee and Sarasota County)
Kelsy Blanco The GREEN KEY?!! I'd be surprised if you were firing more than one cylinder! Wait until you plug in the yellow key and set it to "Sport Mode", then you'll appreciate the machine you have. Have fun and be safe.
i think more than normal, no loss in power, but i think it eating up some oil. only had it out once. going this weekend again to try it out. very strange runs great eats oil and smokes. thanks
It doesn’t take much wear on the wear ring to cause the performance to drop considerably. If you’re picked up some rocks, or chunks of wood and you’re not getting high acceleration or maximum speeds like you used to, it’s probably time to change your wear room. You can check your clearance using a feeler gauge, and look for gouges with a flashlight.
Ok, I've asked you guys several questions and I'm stuck on something again. Time to come back to my trusty source for answers lol..... I have a GTR like this. Went to Seadoo dealer and bought a wear ring. Take it home, get it all taken apart per this video, go to put the new ring in, and I'm stuck. The ring looks identicle to the old ring except it appears to be just slightly bigger. When I go to install it, it hangs over the lip of the pump slightly. I've had it in the freezer for hours. Still too big. Did they give me the wrong one? Is there a method to atleast get it started in the pump? If I could get it started I could hammer it down in there.
It is supposed to hang over the lip a bit (check our video again). The main point is that it should be snug against the inner lip when fully inserted. Compare the length of the new ring to the length of the original ring, as they should be the same. The freezer won't make any difference to the length, only slightly to the diameter to make it easier to go in. Good luck and avoid the hammer!
Just got it in!!!!!!!! Felt like I just discovered invincibility lol!!! Used some hand lotion I had laying around and it went in with one hit. Definitely couldn't avoid the hammer though. Was using the block of wood and rubber mallet method.
That's the $60,000 question. Chris and I have had many debates about it. My feeling is given the critical job of those screws, they need to be put back to "factory specs" before use.
If it calls for new bolts they are TTY bolts and have to be replaced. Given the low torque specs it doesn't take much to stretch them. The better question is why take them out at all. Most videos on this they leave all of that intact and take the whole pump off as a unit.
Hi. I recently redid the impeller and wear ring on my 2019 GTI 130. I was wondering if the 16 ft-lb torque spec for the pump to hull nuts applies to my ski as well. That is what I torqued them to. I am now finding conflicting specs on what it should be. Some people are saying that it should be 22 - 24 ft-lbs for those nuts.
They keep changing those nuts and bolts back there. The torque for our 2017 GTI SE 130 is 19 foot pounds. If you can get a hold of the service manual for your year, I would suggest doing so. Good luck.
Absolutely. Very, very important part of power production in these machines is the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. If either of those is worn, performance can be dramatically decreased. Thanks for your comment.
Atheer Ismail The best way is to look at it through the intake grate from underneath the Sea-Doo. Peer through the intake grate and shine a flashlight toward the pump. Look at the clearance between the wear ring and the impeller. If you see deep gouges in the wear ring, or if the clearance between the wear ring and impeller is more than a millimeter or so, it should be replaced. The pump works by forcing water through the tube, so the tighter the impeller sits within the wear ring, the better. Your Sea-Doo will still work as the wear ring wears, but it'll lose power and speed.
@@3ftDeepChannel So many people don't understand why they are freezing things. Thanks for doing it according to physics :) For anyone reading this, heat = expansion, cold = contraction. Since you want the ring to co come out/go in, and you can't only freeze the ring since it's inside the pump, you freeze both as they did and then heat up the metal only thus making that expansion/contraction differential as big as possible. Your pump is now warm and so if the new ring is frozen as well, you again have that same differential. Btw, your videos are fantastic! Keep it up!
Well, that’s best practices but we can’t honestly say that we replace them all the time. But then again, hopefully you won’t be doing that service for a while, so since you’re already in there …
It could be your wear ring but before you go to all that trouble peek through the intake grate and through the pump from the rear to make sure there's no debris still left in there. If there is, that would likely be your problem and not the wear ring. Good luck.
We are not big fans. That part is designed to be a sacrificial component of the propulsion system. Stainless steel does not wear so the system does not function properly with steel instead of plastic.
I have been waiting for a video just like this to come out. Very grateful for the time you invested to make it. It will be a great help to me when I do mine at the end of this upcoming season.
Just got done doing this and here are a couple pointers.
Had to order Loctite 243 as couldn't find it. 242 was generally available, not 243. You can get triple-guard grease at a BRP/Canam dealer. The jet pump grease comes in a tube for models that use grease instead of oil and you won't have any leftover when you are done. It's XPS stuff at the dealer. Definitely replace the O rings. The freezer trick works really well for removing the ring. When putting it back on, I had the best luck with both the pump and ring at room temp. It may seem impossible and like it will never go, but use a 2x6 or so and with the right starting whack with a mallet, it will go down. When aligning the pump for reassembly, you'll be able to use your hand from the top above the pump to guide it in place.
Best of luck!
Overall fun project and great video!!!
Wow, thanks for your comment!
Thank you for the video. Just one warning to everyone: find a very cold freezer. I tried twice on a freezer set to about 32F and the wear ring didn’t shrink enough. After placing it in a colder freezer (20F), it was much easier.
Hey, thanks for the tip.
I came for the music, and stayed for the wear ring replacement haha Nice video as always.
Awesome instructions. Thank you.
Very helpful. Was able to change mine easily after seeing your video
Great Video! Have you guys done (or thought of doing) a video on how to replace the carbon seal? Thanks!
We do repairs and modifications as they come up. When it's time to replace a carbon seal, we'll definitely film it. Thanks for your comment.
Hey man thanks for the video that was very helpful! I had somes question tho ! When reassemble everthing togheter, it was making a weird sound, and my ibr is struggling to go up or down. Could it be because i didn’t use the exact lbs/ft with the torque wrench ?
Could u recommand some torque wrench for me, in fact 1/4 because i had a 3/8 and there was no place to work with. And in my place i don’t have any good place from where to buy.
Thanks alot man !
It could be your torque settings. You can find some good torque wrenches at our website at www.3ftdeepsports.com. It’s more likely, however, that it wasn’t assembled properly. Make sure your actuator arm is correctly attached to the iBR. Good luck!
Just purchased the New 2018 SEA / DOO RXT-x-300 wondering when I can get my hands on the service manual .
I have a 05 seadoo rxp, I took the old ring out no problem, but the new ring (267000372) is to big and wont fit no matter how much I freeze it, I believe it's a 159mm ring, you think it's a 155mm? Ps aluminum pump housing.
The new ones can be much tighter than the old ones and very difficult to get in. Before you push it any further, make absolutely sure that’s the right one for your machine. it may also be that it was made too large, and you’ll need to need to exchange it for another one. Call your dealer to verify. Good luck.
Thank you so much for your time and consideration help me
Love the vids but was wondering why you didn't choose a stainless steel wear ring??. From what I read better performance and can handle sticks with no damage compared to a plastic one.
The wear ring is a sacrificial part. It is meant to take the wear that the impeller might otherwise take. It would probably be better if you got a stick in there, but worse if you got a large rock like happened to us recently.
Very helpful video. One thing you should remove immediately though is you say to torque down the impeller shaft cover to 66 ft lbs. That just stripped my threads and cracked the cone mounts….
66 ft lbs. torque will definitely crack the cone! 66 lbf.in is inch pounds though, not foot pounds. Thanks for the kind words and your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel aaaahhhhh yes… clearly I’m an idiot lol. Thanks for clarifying. I went back and rewatched it. Not being a mechanic I assumed the video melt to set my torque wrench to ft lbs. not INCH lbs.. I guess you live and learn. Again. Super helpful videos! I really do appreciate the guidance. And also thanks for responding so quickly.
Side note, I can’t believe the Seadoo dealership near me told me that my 2013 wakepro215 with 98 hours on it is considered a relic…
Don’t beat yourself up. It’s a very common mistake. In later videos we start using N.m. torque values to try to avoid this potential issue. Sounds like your dealership wants to sell you another machine! Make sure you stay on top of that supercharger. Machines of that year required supercharger rebuilds about every 175 hours or every 5 years …whichever comes first. Good luck with your wrenching and stay safe.
@seanieg powersport equipment typically has about a 10 year lifespan as certain parts are no longer in production. Ask anyone who tries to restore or repair a 15 year or older motorcycle 😅
My sentiments exactly.
Hello, i have a 2004 seadoo sportster 4 tec supercharged; I have recently damaged the intake grate, do you have a video showing the steps to replace. Should I use silicon on the perimeter before attaching and what loctite should i use. Also the torch strength. Thank you in advance, and great video!
I don't have the manual for my model, but for the 2012 GTR 215 the screws need to be torqued to 18 lbf.ft. They don't suggest Loctite because they recommend using NEW screws after removal. They also say to torque them down in a specific order: 1st the big, solitary one, then the other 3 going counter-clockwise, ending with a second torque of the biggest screw. No silicone recommended. Good luck.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Very grateful!
You're welcome. Sorry, I meant to say going "clockwise", NOT "counter-clockwise".
Of course mine west ring and impeller came with a different type of driveshaft seal.
Messed my whole operation up.
Brutal!
If you can recommend one torque wrench you use which one would you get.
Probably one like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B01AY0JF42/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdeepsports-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=6cc8819373a2df9b7f1429170f02fcba&creativeASIN=B01AY0JF42. CDI are also very good value.
3ftDeep where did you buy the pump plate tool, I cannot find it anywhere for my ski
Anthony Giovino I just found your comment, sorry. I would look on Amazon or eBay. Otherwise, you may have to go to your dealer ($$$!!). If you're handy, you could even make one. I'm using a plate for an older model I have that doesn't fit perfectly, but it'll do the job. Good luck!
Anthony Giovino I couldn't find it either, ended up getting raped from the dealer for it ($170.00 CAD), I may look into getting some copies made up on a water jet table to both reduce my initial cost and provide an affordable solution to the average diy'er
I very much appreciate this video, I am about to replace the wear ring on my 2010 Speedster jet boat. I see that Triple Guard grease is being used and this is also specified in the manual, however I can't find this in Canada, I am in Ontario. Is there a comparable alternative or do you have any idea where I could buy it other than from the states. Thanks, really appreciate all the 3ftDeep videos I have watched. It sure helps with doing all the hands on work for my jet boat.
We live in Canada too, and were eventually able to find some. It's available on our Amazon store, but unfortunately it comes from the US (www.amazon.com/dp/B001KYH6AW/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=3ftdspor-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=14aae46556cc964b84f152508a5edc2e&creativeASIN=B001KYH6AW). It's really a unique product, so I would stick with it. Try a marine store near you, if you can't find it online. If I can find an online supplier, I'll link it on our website. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks, I will keep looking.
@@GF-ok5yn did you find anything
Hello, which do you think is better, the stainless steel propeller from the company solas or the original one from the Sea Doo, and which is better with the plastic or stainless steel wear ring? Thank you.
After certain modifications to your machine changing the impeller makes sense, but it’s important to consider that the engineers at BRP built your machine from scratch and know it best. So, in our opinion OEM parts almost always work best with stock setup. But if you’re into racing and increasing performance …
Where did you go to get the O-rings, impeller O-ring, outlet adapter O-ring and in another video you had the friction sleeves replaced on the IBR! I looked in description and it gives links to Amazon for loctite and bearing grease but nothing for O-rings. Has part numbers but how do you use that?
We got those from our local Sea-Doo dealer. Hopefully there’s one not too far from where you live. Good luck.
Hey 3 Deep. Why don’t you assemble everything onto the pump, then install it all together.
Or at least the cone on the pump while it’s on the bench.
Just curious
Hey, Scott. That's a good question. That video was made a long time ago, so I don't remember the details. But some times we piece together scenes from more than one repair/maintenance job (hence the clothing, hair changes, etc.) to make a video. So you're right. It's better to assemble everything you can while it's on the bench and then install it as a unit. Thanks for your comment.
What size tap is needed for the pump housing? I just pulled mine today and am waiting on parts. Mine has a lot of white build up on the bolts and holes.
Thank You
What year and model machine do you have?
@@3ftDeepChannel 2009 gtx 155
Hi im replacing the wear ring on my 08 speedster 150 215 and noticed after removing the jet pump that on the pump support there is a exhaust water restriction washer and beside it are 2 smaller holes that look like there should be o rings but they are missing. On the parts look up for a 08 rxt it shows them but for the 08 boat it doesnt. On a forum some one said they arent required on the boats since they do not have any siphon automatic bilge like the skis do. Do you guys know the correct answer to this before i re assemble? Thanks
It looks like there should be 2 O-rings, if I understand what you’re saying. They may still be on the pump, and not on the pump support. Check out the Sea-Doo parts finder catalog to confirm: shop.sea-doo.com/ca/en/shop/sales/parts/?aribrand=SEA_DOO_EN_CA_CAD .
How many hours before you replace the wear ring? And I heard you want to rebuild the SC at 100 hours, not the 200 hours as in the book?
resqme49 It depends on how much you get stuck up the pump when riding (like rocks, sticks, etc.), and how much damage results. I replaced mine at 116 hrs and it probably didn't need it (not as much damage as I thought). Even without obvious damage though, it's a good idea to replace it when the space between the impeller and the wear ring exceeds 0.35 mm (0.014 in), to ensure you have maximum propulsion. I'd say replacing it every 100-150 hrs is a good idea. I'll find out when the season starts if it made much difference with my machine. I suspect it will. Thanks for your comment.
As for the supercharger, the older models needed changing between 50 and 150 hrs, but the new ones (2012 and newer) can last for 200 hrs. I'm planning on doing my supercharger at 200 hrs.
I have been meaning to ask you for some time now do you know what's your range on a full tank of gas on touring mode?
The maximum distance I'd ever try to go on my 2012 GTR 215 is 100km. And that's using a mixture of different modes, including Touring mode. When I start getting low though, I switch to "Eco" mode, and that makes a huge difference. It makes your machine feel unresponsive, but it really saves on gas. I wouldn't try it, but I'd guess I could do 120km in pure Eco mode.
3ftDeep Thanks for the response, My buddies and me are going to go on a 50 mile run in May (West Palm Beach to West End Bahamas), a couple of them have made that trip before and its exactly 52 Miles from the dock at West Palm Beach to the Customs Office in West End Bahamas(They have a gas pump there) and just wanted to make sure I could make the run with out Having to put gas in the middle of the trip.
Kelsy Blanco Wow, I'm really jealous. That is the perfect ride that Chris and I dream of making. Although you should be able to make the trip on a tank of gas in touring mode, if you start fooling around in sport mode for a bit, you may be pushing it. I'd bring a small can of gas in the front storage compartment, just in case. Have fun!
Do you guys know the measurements of a 2008 GTX wear ring? I plan building one my own
Unfortunately, no. We don’t have that level of detail on hand. Good luck.
Why do you need to purchase the pump plate for this job.
You just need a way to support the driveshaft while you're working on the pump.
we have a 2003 GTX 4-TEC S/C and it only gets up to 43 mph and struggles to get to 20mph with 3 people on it, would replacing the wear ring and intake grate fix the issue my theory is that the pump isn’t getting enough water at low speeds and the wear ring is in need of a replacement
also regardless of rpm with 3 people on it if it’s not over 15 mph it won’t accelerate at all even when flooring it, you have to keep it in the 4-5 rpm range to get it above 15
You have an older machine, so if you haven't replaced your wear ring in a while, it's likely due for a change. Also, your impeller could be damaged/worn and could need reconditioning. Another thing to consider is your supercharger. If it hasn't been rebuilt in the last 150 hours or 5 years (whichever is less), it's time to do do a rebuild on that. That's where we'd start. Good luck.
I guess I don't understand why you can't just support the driveshaft with a board or something?
You can, absolutely. I've even supported it with a heavy-duty sponge in the past. Thanks for your comment.
i just bought a solas wear ring and im having a real har time putting it in i already meassure it thinking i got the wrong one but is exact same as the one i pulled out it came out so easy, dont get it any tips
Some of those wear rings are a very tight pressure fit. If you're absolutely certain it's the right one, it may take a bit of "convincing" to go in. Last time we needed to use a hammer and a 2x4. If you do use force like that, make sure it's going in evenly. Also, make sure there aren't any retaining screws preventing it from going in. Good luck.
Hello i have a seadoo rxt of the 2008 Maybe you can tell me which are the two oring that change if you know the number to buy on ebay, I'm from Ecuador greetings and thanks
All the parts you need are listed in the description below the video on RUclips. Good luck.
What tap are you using to clean the Venturi pump threads ?
Our machine took M8 X 30 screws, so we used that tap, but you'll need to confirm for your machine as they are known to change from machine to machine over time. Good luck.
3ftDeep awesome thank you !
Looking to purchase a 2013 seadoo 215 should I be worried about it sinking ? I've recently heard they sink alot
I've only ever heard a rumor of one "sinking", and that was an aS model (i.e. with suspension). It was during a storm, it was left moored without a cover, and water got into the hull. I had the hull of my 2003 GTX full of water and it only partially "sank". In other words, mine didn't actually sink to the bottom of the ocean, they just end up "bobbing" on an angle. It takes a breach of the hull sealing mechanism(s) for that to happen, though.
One of my 4 pump nuts is jammed, any danger of breaking something if I use serious force ?
It depends on the model of machine. Check Sea-Doo’s parts catalog for the expanded diagram of your pump system to see if you could strip anything. The fear is stripping bolt studs anchored in fiberglass. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you for your answer, It's a 2003 seadoo GTX 155 wake. I believe the bolt goes thru I will try to remove the bolt from the other side and pull it out and replace it. Great video by a great person.
I know there are 2 retaining screws on mine but I lost one do I need 2 or can I go with just one
Get another one. You can find them on the Parts section on Sea-Doo's website, or at your dealer.
How do you get those 4 pump nuts off? I have no deep well socket or wrench that can fit
We use a socket with an extension. I don't think mine is a deep socket, but if yours doesn't fit, you should go buy one. You can buy them individually at most hardware stores for about $10.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for the feedback but i got it off like an hour after i wrote that lol thanks anyway
How many hours do you have on your GTR now? ,I just bought the 2015 GTR and I am still in the break in process(7 HRS need to get to 10)
I think it's about 112 hours. I bought it when it had 16 hours on it, so I wasn't involved in the break in process. It's a fantastic machine - make sure you maintain it! Thanks for your comment. Next up will be a supercharger rebuild (required at 200 hrs).
3ftDeep when I first got it on the water it would not go above 35MPH(with green key) now at 7 HRS it does about 45-48 but the supercharger has not kicked in yet sense I'm still on the green key, when I get to 8 HRS I will start using the normal key and Start working the supercharger. Where do you guys ride it seems to be up north somewhere me and my buddies ride here in south Florida(Manatee and Sarasota County)
Kelsy Blanco The GREEN KEY?!! I'd be surprised if you were firing more than one cylinder! Wait until you plug in the yellow key and set it to "Sport Mode", then you'll appreciate the machine you have. Have fun and be safe.
3ftDeep Trust Me I cant wait till I get to really open her up and let it rip, Just three more hours and its GO time.
i have a 2006 seadoo gti , it is smoking white smoke when idle. is this what have to do to stop the smoke. thanks
Some white smoke at idle is normal. Is this more smoke than what you normally see? Any other symptoms? Loss of power?
i think more than normal, no loss in power, but i think it eating up some oil. only had it out once. going this weekend again to try it out. very strange runs great eats oil and smokes. thanks
Will this guide work on GTI 155 ?
Probably. There may be some subtle differences between years, though.
How can you tell when a wear ring is ready to be replaced...? Like how much wear is too much?
It doesn’t take much wear on the wear ring to cause the performance to drop considerably. If you’re picked up some rocks, or chunks of wood and you’re not getting high acceleration or maximum speeds like you used to, it’s probably time to change your wear room. You can check your clearance using a feeler gauge, and look for gouges with a flashlight.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks for your advice! I will most likely be replacing then. Love your content!
Hello My jetski is accelerating but not advancing do you have any idea?
Help me
I don’t quite understand your problem. Can you explain it in a different way?
Ok, I've asked you guys several questions and I'm stuck on something again. Time to come back to my trusty source for answers lol..... I have a GTR like this. Went to Seadoo dealer and bought a wear ring. Take it home, get it all taken apart per this video, go to put the new ring in, and I'm stuck. The ring looks identicle to the old ring except it appears to be just slightly bigger. When I go to install it, it hangs over the lip of the pump slightly. I've had it in the freezer for hours. Still too big. Did they give me the wrong one? Is there a method to atleast get it started in the pump? If I could get it started I could hammer it down in there.
Actually watching how easy it went in for y'all is adding insult to injury 😠. I'm pretty sure I've said every cuss word that exists lol
It is supposed to hang over the lip a bit (check our video again). The main point is that it should be snug against the inner lip when fully inserted. Compare the length of the new ring to the length of the original ring, as they should be the same. The freezer won't make any difference to the length, only slightly to the diameter to make it easier to go in. Good luck and avoid the hammer!
They are definitely making them much tighter than they used to. Chris complained a lot about how tight the last one was (done after this video).
Just got it in!!!!!!!! Felt like I just discovered invincibility lol!!! Used some hand lotion I had laying around and it went in with one hit. Definitely couldn't avoid the hammer though. Was using the block of wood and rubber mallet method.
:)
why do the 3 cover screws always call for new ones? I don't imagine they are stretch bolts.
That's the $60,000 question. Chris and I have had many debates about it. My feeling is given the critical job of those screws, they need to be put back to "factory specs" before use.
If it calls for new bolts they are TTY bolts and have to be replaced. Given the low torque specs it doesn't take much to stretch them.
The better question is why take them out at all. Most videos on this they leave all of that intact and take the whole pump off as a unit.
Hi. I recently redid the impeller and wear ring on my 2019 GTI 130. I was wondering if the 16 ft-lb torque spec for the pump to hull nuts applies to my ski as well. That is what I torqued them to. I am now finding conflicting specs on what it should be. Some people are saying that it should be 22 - 24 ft-lbs for those nuts.
They keep changing those nuts and bolts back there. The torque for our 2017 GTI SE 130 is 19 foot pounds. If you can get a hold of the service manual for your year, I would suggest doing so. Good luck.
Absolutely. Very, very important part of power production in these machines is the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. If either of those is worn, performance can be dramatically decreased. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for posting!
Hi sir how are you
plz how can i know if the wear ring is good or bad?
i have a 2006 rxp
Thank you
Atheer Ismail The best way is to look at it through the intake grate from underneath the Sea-Doo. Peer through the intake grate and shine a flashlight toward the pump. Look at the clearance between the wear ring and the impeller. If you see deep gouges in the wear ring, or if the clearance between the wear ring and impeller is more than a millimeter or so, it should be replaced. The pump works by forcing water through the tube, so the tighter the impeller sits within the wear ring, the better. Your Sea-Doo will still work as the wear ring wears, but it'll lose power and speed.
Thank you so much for your help sir
Why do you heat it up after you freeze it?
We freeze the wear ring to make it smaller and heat the pump to make it larger so they fit together more easily.
@@3ftDeepChannel So many people don't understand why they are freezing things. Thanks for doing it according to physics :) For anyone reading this, heat = expansion, cold = contraction. Since you want the ring to co come out/go in, and you can't only freeze the ring since it's inside the pump, you freeze both as they did and then heat up the metal only thus making that expansion/contraction differential as big as possible. Your pump is now warm and so if the new ring is frozen as well, you again have that same differential.
Btw, your videos are fantastic! Keep it up!
Thanks very much, Luc!
Do u really need all those new o rings on a sea do with only 20 hours I’m gonna be doing a wear ring
Well, that’s best practices but we can’t honestly say that we replace them all the time. But then again, hopefully you won’t be doing that service for a while, so since you’re already in there …
@@3ftDeepChannel my sister sucked up some rocks or twigs so I will be doing ring would just wear ring sea do very laggy won’t go over 40mph
It could be your wear ring but before you go to all that trouble peek through the intake grate and through the pump from the rear to make sure there's no debris still left in there. If there is, that would likely be your problem and not the wear ring. Good luck.
What is your opinion on a stainless steel wear ring ?
We are not big fans. That part is designed to be a sacrificial component of the propulsion system. Stainless steel does not wear so the system does not function properly with steel instead of plastic.
y'all should put a kit for this together and sell it on your website or Amazon. it is a pain trying to find everything online.
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately our Amazon store will be coming to an end in October. Amazon is discontinuing the service.
Love the 70's porn music !
Hey, c’mon …that’s good ol’ funk music!
My question was, to improve my jet ski and not to compete.
We advise that if your machine is more than 5 years old to install a bilge pump.
some verbal instructions would have been much better than the horrible music.....just sayin
Point taken. Thanks.
Will I need the special spline tool to remove the jet pump when doing the wear ring on a 2010 RXT260RS?
You don’t need a special tool to remove the pump. Do you mean the impeller removal tool?
@@3ftDeepChannel Yes, the impeller removal tool. Will I need that to simply do the wear ring?
Well, if you’re careful you can do it without the tool (like we did in the video), but it’s much easier if you have the tool. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks mate.