This is a glimpse of a real American with a can-do attitude. Thanks for sharing this. I spent last night cussing at my little butane torch method I was trying with some custom Mikuni throttle cables.
I lowered my front forks and then replaced my stock bars and mounting with clip-on bars, need to go back and shorten and relocate my choke, and shorten both the push/pull throttle cables. This was a huge help, however I am going to save myself some grief and order the replacement ends from Dime City Cycles, they are very inexpensive. Thank you for the vid, it was exactly what I was looking for - what solder to use or not use, etc. Awesome!
You are Brilliant!!!! Those Ariens pirates want nearly $50 for a stupid auger cable they made dang sure it was one of those ones that you couldn't rig your own. The steel quality was so poor that it had stretched out of limits in around 10 years for little use, imagine that. You saved the day brother, thanks a million.
not that this guy is going to read comments 8 years later, but for anyone looking to do this, he might well have annealed that wire which would have been harder due to the cold work and thus more be more durable than it was after annealing. Annealing removes the hardness of steel making more workable but the end is not the point you want to be doing that. There is a correct tool to do this called a 'solder pot' where you dip the end into molten solder rather than heating the part like this guy was doing. I understand this was amateur all the way from 34000 rpm emery disc cutting with no glasses to the work environment, so maybe im being anal but thought i should point that out.
Thanks, man. Most-excellent video. Keep producing these. I can't tell you how encouraging I find it that a young guy is doing this basic stuff. Usually, these days, only the older guys have the skills and the motivation.
I was taught to do this with acid core lead solder and to put the cable end in a vice VERTICALLY, you can hold up the loose cable end with the tip of your soldering gun,, and heat the cable from below the cable end and to let the solder make it's way down through the cable end a little so that you know it definitely adhered to all pieces of wire in the cable, you can use a torch style solder gun with a metal tip to speed up the process or you can literally use a cheap soldering iron below the cable end against the cable too (just takes quite a bit longer to heat up the cable enough to melt the solder when you touch the solder to the frayed ends of the cable above the cable end.) Besides all that you are doing it the same way pretty much as I was once taught. Just thought I'd share that and also that none of my cables have ever had the ends come off too. :)
Thank you fenrir00 ! I done it slightly different to save cleanup. I used 1/4" brake line, cut it to length and drilled the large hole for it in wood. Once I inserted the sleeve in the hole I drilled the hole for the wire.
thank you very much, It's worked for me. Very very thx :) I thought i can't solder bowdens, but i tried it, and worked. Now i don't have to buy new bowdens every time.
"The easiest way is to use a solder pot, but of course you and I don't have solder pots". How does this dude know me so well? Nice to see a video of someone doing this without a solder pot...although I'm kind'a thinking I should just spend 25 bucks and get one on amazon. I recently picked up a 64 Triumph and every cable I've ordered for it has been the wrong frickin' length.
great video.i've recently done this myself.i used silver solder(only 2% silver i think),got it at napa auto parts.i also used a small pencil torch,very carefully.your right about cable getting too hot and brittle.thanks for putting that in.i agree with the guy above about young guys getting into doing it thereselves.keep it up ...
thanks for posting this! I'll be trying it this week. I have about 5 bikes right now that need shorter cables and it would be great if this works so that I don't have to buy new ones
I ended up work hardening the ferrule with a drill and went through some cobalt bits, drill as slow as possible. Also you can melt solder in a spoon instead of using an iron.
@SnapDaddy5998 absolutely - that's the whole point of the video. That's a real clutch cable, I just didn't have a use for it right then. It doesn't matter if its a control cable for a bike, a car, or an airplane, they all work the same way.
@SnapDaddy5998 if you do it right it'll be strong enough for any application on a motorcycle (sometimes it just doesn't take and you have to redo it, but you'll know right away when the ferrel pops off on load) . I use 50/50 tin/lead solder, but 60/40 tin/lead is a little stronger. I know some people use straight lead, but the more tin, the stronger the solder, so I use at least 50/50. The more tin also the better the solder sticks to the metal.
@paradisoverde I wish there were more older guys around here to show me what to do! Thank god for the internet, though, without it and the people who share their techniques, I'd still be trying to figure out how to punch out an exhaust baffle.
@maninshed1 I've got glasses on during all grinding and cutting, but most of the time you can't see my face, and sometimes I've taken them off right before I've cut to the next scene. I've been to the hospital twice to get metal shards ground out of my eye and once spent over 2 years with a torn lens from a rock. I now try to be very aware of that sort of thing.
Nice to see a youngster "make do and mending" but I think if you had put some solder on your hot plate you would have had better heat transference and a quicker job.
Are you saying no to solder with flux in the core so you can apply flux directly to the part? IMO, even with flux core, flux can be applied. Thoughts? Dan
"Let's say, you wanna just take two inches.. off your fuckin finger, like this because the grinder is on while im fumbling the god damn tape measure and the workpiece and the grinder at the same time"
it's generally considered not strong enough - but quite frankly, I've never tried it (I've never wanted to risk a brake cable snapping at an inopportune moment)
Good Job!! Is it possible to make a cable longer? (By soldering an extension?) I wanna add APE hanger Bars to my virago, but I wanna save money by not having to purchase LONGER cables. I am looking to make them like 10 inches longer, and how about the rubber coating can I extend that?
My understanding is the material is not strong enough - or may not be strong enough. I have cables still in use that I made 10 years ago using 50/50 solder - so I know that works!
I have no idea - I'm definitely not a chemist. I just know that I've always been told that straight solder is stronger than a flux core solder. The investment in solder and flux is pretty small - I've never felt the need to diverge from the formulas I've seen over and over again from the "old guys"
Erik Wagler exactly - it takes a lot of heat to get the cable barrel hot enough that the solder will flow. I don't know of any electric iron that'll do it (maybe there are some, but I've not seen one). My heaviest duty electric iron is a 230w - it might get it up to temperature eventually, but you might as well just use flame.
safety glasses sitting on the bench while an easily fracturable disk spins at thousands of rpms in a rotational plane with your eyes while throwing hot metal sparks.
This is a glimpse of a real American with a can-do attitude. Thanks for sharing this. I spent last night cussing at my little butane torch method I was trying with some custom Mikuni throttle cables.
I lowered my front forks and then replaced my stock bars and mounting with clip-on bars, need to go back and shorten and relocate my choke, and shorten both the push/pull throttle cables. This was a huge help, however I am going to save myself some grief and order the replacement ends from Dime City Cycles, they are very inexpensive. Thank you for the vid, it was exactly what I was looking for - what solder to use or not use, etc. Awesome!
You are Brilliant!!!! Those Ariens pirates want nearly $50 for a stupid auger cable they made dang sure it was one of those ones that you couldn't rig your own. The steel quality was so poor that it had stretched out of limits in around 10 years for little use, imagine that. You saved the day brother, thanks a million.
makes it clear,no messing about,and easily understood. tried this way,worked a treat . thanks mate. !
not that this guy is going to read comments 8 years later, but for anyone looking to do this, he might well have annealed that wire which would have been harder due to the cold work and thus more be more durable than it was after annealing. Annealing removes the hardness of steel making more workable but the end is not the point you want to be doing that. There is a correct tool to do this called a 'solder pot' where you dip the end into molten solder rather than heating the part like this guy was doing. I understand this was amateur all the way from 34000 rpm emery disc cutting with no glasses to the work environment, so maybe im being anal but thought i should point that out.
Thanks, man. Most-excellent video. Keep producing these.
I can't tell you how encouraging I find it that a young guy is doing this basic stuff. Usually, these days, only the older guys have the skills and the motivation.
I was taught to do this with acid core lead solder and to put the cable end in a vice VERTICALLY, you can hold up the loose cable end with the tip of your soldering gun,, and heat the cable from below the cable end and to let the solder make it's way down through the cable end a little so that you know it definitely adhered to all pieces of wire in the cable, you can use a torch style solder gun with a metal tip to speed up the process or you can literally use a cheap soldering iron below the cable end against the cable too (just takes quite a bit longer to heat up the cable enough to melt the solder when you touch the solder to the frayed ends of the cable above the cable end.) Besides all that you are doing it the same way pretty much as I was once taught. Just thought I'd share that and also that none of my cables have ever had the ends come off too. :)
Thank you fenrir00 ! I done it slightly different to save cleanup. I used 1/4" brake line, cut it to length and drilled the large hole for it in wood. Once I inserted the sleeve in the hole I drilled the hole for the wire.
Thanks! You've saved me from a long down time with my bike.
thank you very much, It's worked for me. Very very thx :) I thought i can't solder bowdens, but i tried it, and worked. Now i don't have to buy new bowdens every time.
"The easiest way is to use a solder pot, but of course you and I don't have solder pots". How does this dude know me so well? Nice to see a video of someone doing this without a solder pot...although I'm kind'a thinking I should just spend 25 bucks and get one on amazon. I recently picked up a 64 Triumph and every cable I've ordered for it has been the wrong frickin' length.
Great Video! I followed your video and converted my ATV to a twist throttle. Smooth as silk!
great video.i've recently done this myself.i used silver solder(only 2% silver i think),got it at napa auto parts.i also used a small pencil torch,very carefully.your right about cable getting too hot and brittle.thanks for putting that in.i agree with the guy above about young guys getting into doing it thereselves.keep it up ...
Really appreciate your time to make these vids. - Sunnbobb Bradshaw Bikes
YOU ARE TALENTED AND HANDSOME.... GOOD JOB
Hey it’s Dweezil Zappa, teaching me how to solder cables!
thanks for posting this! I'll be trying it this week. I have about 5 bikes right now that need shorter cables and it would be great if this works so that I don't have to buy new ones
I ended up work hardening the ferrule with a drill and went through some cobalt bits, drill as slow as possible. Also you can melt solder in a spoon instead of using an iron.
Awesome I'm going to try this this weekend and try to post my results.
@SnapDaddy5998 absolutely - that's the whole point of the video. That's a real clutch cable, I just didn't have a use for it right then. It doesn't matter if its a control cable for a bike, a car, or an airplane, they all work the same way.
Trey Parker can do anything man.
@SnapDaddy5998 if you do it right it'll be strong enough for any application on a motorcycle (sometimes it just doesn't take and you have to redo it, but you'll know right away when the ferrel pops off on load) . I use 50/50 tin/lead solder, but 60/40 tin/lead is a little stronger. I know some people use straight lead, but the more tin, the stronger the solder, so I use at least 50/50. The more tin also the better the solder sticks to the metal.
@paradisoverde I wish there were more older guys around here to show me what to do! Thank god for the internet, though, without it and the people who share their techniques, I'd still be trying to figure out how to punch out an exhaust baffle.
Excellent and informative. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Thanks! saved me like $80, you the man!
@maninshed1 I've got glasses on during all grinding and cutting, but most of the time you can't see my face, and sometimes I've taken them off right before I've cut to the next scene. I've been to the hospital twice to get metal shards ground out of my eye and once spent over 2 years with a torn lens from a rock. I now try to be very aware of that sort of thing.
Thanks man! Helped me out big time!
Nice to see a youngster "make do and mending" but I think if you had put some solder on your hot plate you would have had better heat transference and a quicker job.
I think you are absolutely right and next time I will. If I tin a soldering iron tip, why wouldn't I tin the copper plate?
Awesome vid man thank you. Going to try this on my TC for my datsun
1979 just called. They want their phone back.
I will use your methods thanks for sharing
@SnapDaddy5998 no good - it can't have any sort of flux core (acid or rosin). its gotta be solid solder
Very good job done m8. Cheers .
Are you saying no to solder with flux in the core so you can apply flux directly to the part? IMO, even with flux core, flux can be applied. Thoughts?
Dan
"Let's say, you wanna just take two inches.. off your fuckin finger, like this because the grinder is on while im fumbling the god damn tape measure and the workpiece and the grinder at the same time"
Why wouldn't flux core stuff work? Is the lead/tin ratio different/not as strong?
it's generally considered not strong enough - but quite frankly, I've never tried it (I've never wanted to risk a brake cable snapping at an inopportune moment)
Great info here. Thanks.
ME GUSTO ,QUIERO SABER QUE UTILIZA PARA EL CABLE DE ACELERADOR APARTE DE SOLDADURA ?
I've seen Flanders any other places you'd recommend. I'm working on a outboard, I'm looking for a specific diameter cable sleave and stainless cable
nicely done....
Nice one , thanks !
nice job!
Good Job!! Is it possible to make a cable longer? (By soldering an extension?) I wanna add APE hanger Bars to my virago, but I wanna save money by not having to purchase LONGER cables. I am looking to make them like 10 inches longer, and how about the rubber coating can I extend that?
If it is, I can't see how to do it so that it's reliable. I'd just get new cables from motionpro
thanks, informative-
what happens if we use rosin core wire?
My understanding is the material is not strong enough - or may not be strong enough. I have cables still in use that I made 10 years ago using 50/50 solder - so I know that works!
So will the silver acid core solder work????
and if not why?! Any idea?
I have no idea - I'm definitely not a chemist. I just know that I've always been told that straight solder is stronger than a flux core solder. The investment in solder and flux is pretty small - I've never felt the need to diverge from the formulas I've seen over and over again from the "old guys"
Why don't you use an electric soldering iron? I have seen a couple people shy away / warn against these. Are the cheap ones just not hot enough?
Erik Wagler exactly - it takes a lot of heat to get the cable barrel hot enough that the solder will flow. I don't know of any electric iron that'll do it (maybe there are some, but I've not seen one). My heaviest duty electric iron is a 230w - it might get it up to temperature eventually, but you might as well just use flame.
fenrir00 Oh wow, thanks for the tip! I'll definitely be using your copper sheet trick. Now i just gotta get my hands on some copper....
good tips
The brass end piece is a nipple, the piece of metal covering end of cable is the ferrule, it's soldering, not soddering. Just a few tips.
this is a tech class, english is down the hall-
David Dale he's American, or a merkin.
LOL
Sod off
Eye protection!!!!
safety glasses sitting on the bench while an easily fracturable disk spins at thousands of rpms in a rotational plane with your eyes while throwing hot metal sparks.
Oh no..... THAT safety dickhead has showed up. Run along and find my UNsafety videos..... you'll be posting shit for hours
so dangerous!!hahaha why he not use the cutter for cut the cable??!and whatch out for the power cord!!
This is another interesting way to rebuild the ferrell. ruclips.net/video/F-gY27LTU2c/видео.html
better watch out for your eyes, when u get old, you will say,, l am a dumb ass.
Awesome video! I live in an apartment. Can I mail you my cable to be shortened? I will send you $20 + $10 for shipping through PayPal.
Phone!!
Please explain why you would not use a 60/40 rosin core?
Used your method today worked awsome
That was really informitive on how to shorten bowdens and make the extends also be to your needs. Thank you so much!
makes it clear,no messing about,and easily understood. tried this way,worked a treat . thanks mate. !
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, headed to the store to buy some 60/40 now!
Good video, just looks like it was on a VHS tape
what is "the right temperature" for the copper plate?