Quick tip when dealing with the piston/cylinder. Try to keep metal to metal contact to a minimum whenever you can. when inserting the piston into the cylinder put a good amount of straight two stroke out on the piston rings, the piston, and the cylinder walls as to not scratch them, and to reduce the amount of force needed to put it in. (Because small scratches become larger over time) and try to only insert the piston when you need to, and do it delicately. But other than that the porting was great! And I’ll be looking forward to seeing part 2.
Don't ever apologize for liking things that look good, you have superb taste, polish-up your shiny stuff, and let the haters hate, ;-) of course the cylinder-bore is going to be a fraction bigger than the piston, that's what the rings are for ya silly boy, lol, if that cylinder isn't scratched-up or too much, or the Nikasil-plating isn't worn off too much, it will be fine for use, great video young-man!, thanks for sharing.
As tight as that fits,which is good,the main thing you Have to check is the Ring Gap.Take them off the piston and make sure there Is a proper gap or as they heat they'll expand against the pins and score your cylinder walls.(I very lightly coat the cylinder with Molybdenum Grease and let it soak in for a couple days.I also put some on the Wrist Pin and in the Roller bearing.It'll burn away after the motor's hot,but it'll not let scoring happen as the oil finally hits them.)I have a very fine steel file for dulling the edges of the rings too.Just the edges.Do Not hit the outside contact surface.>over 3000 miles and not scored
Sorry if that sounds 'preachy'.I'm waiting for it to be above freezing,(mid-Michigan and -1 tonight,Been about 20 for days)and I'm doing a 4th engine kit.I've treated each as above.+1/2 teaspoon of 2-cycle oil drizzled down the connecting rod into the bearing on each side.
Thanks for the vid.I want to window a piston for my next kit.I almost forgot to look for the ring pins and may've done it backwards.I've been using an BBR looking reed valve with no problems on the open Transfer port head like your black one,but bought an OZ reed valve looking type for the new bike.With the BBR type,I used 2 Exhaust gaskets filed to port match.When I put on a 'Flex Poo-Poo'exhaust the bike wanted to wheelie..(26"Mt.Bike.)
It can be confusing. A lot of pple say it’s a certain way when I look at brand new Pre made pistons with the window and it’s the opposite side. Really confusing
You windowed the wrong side of the piston triangle or arrow should be facing the exhaust not the intake. 19:30 / Also you would of been better off just buying one all ready done $ 20 - 35 bucks. I know a lot of people like to DIY to save a buck but if you do not know what your doing just pay for it already done. Nice bike looks great be safe.
You did it Right as the ring gap should be on the Intake side so oiled fuel lubes them,and the cylinder walls better.Not burnt gases.Sometimes the Arrow is on the wrong side.
Aye bro that’s awesome and the motor mounts I buy are on eBay. The link to that is here: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_id=133516136123&_nkw=80cc+100cc+OCC+Chopper+Mount+For+2-Stroke+Gas+Motorized+Bicycle+Engine. And the brake setup I just put the chain tensioner upside down and route the chain under the tensioner around the sprocket and back to the motor.
Any more questions and just go to this video and zoom in or pause the video a take a close look. Video link is here:ruclips.net/video/Fl_dV74RzBs/видео.html
Those expansion chambers you have on your exhaust aren't ideal for making power, they are very restrictive. Try to find a cheap 100cc + 2 stroke dirt bike exhaust like I did, you might have to drill holes or weld something but it's definitely worth it
Yeah I’ve noticed that. Back then I thought it was great but now I kinda realized. Thx for reminding me tho bro. And welding or making holes won’t be a prob so I’ll do it some time.
Dude, for starters, u can't / tell if a piston & cylinder combination has good compression or not by looking at the physical fit ! The ONLY way you can accurately check the compression of a setup is to use a compression tester that u screw into the sparkplug hole when the whole assembly is together ! The main reason for this is because it's NOT the physical piston that gives the compression but rather the PISTON RING ! and secondly, the piston ring and the cylinder wall has to be bed-in correctly before good compression is achieved. Another factor to look into here is that because the piston actually rocks and pivots on the grogeon pin, the cylinder wall hence wears in the shape of a drum and not completely evenly the same from top to bottom.... in short, there is an entire subject spanning over two whole semesters in college when studying to be a qualified mechanic about this topic..how do I know this ?? Lol u don't wanna know. Anyways, you can never check the fit and torence of components in engines just by eye, you MUST always use the correct measuring equipment such as micrometer, calipers, compression testers etc to achieve accurate measurements.
Thx for the help. But, I know that true compression is judged off of a compression test and that stuff. I don’t have that tool so I just judged it off of that and I judged it off of the compression it had when I tried to start it and well it had compression. I appreciate all the info tho dude ur smart af. But I personally don’t think it’s work using all these tools and knowledge on a motor that is cheaper than a phone lol. I just put all this stuff on it and make content with it to have fun. Again thx tho
Naaaa. Forget the arrows . Always look at where the piston rings meet the 2 pins on the piston . As long as those pins are facing positioned towards the intake that's the proper way. Top piston ring pin should be at your 7oclock and the 2nd down should be around 4 o'clock.
Yeah just seeing this vid and you put the window on the wrong side and the piston is supposed to move slightly because of the rings rub against the sides not the piston. And on the next one the black cylinder is a newer better G4 type of cylinder so yeah way better. And compress the rings right against the locator pins if you don't you will scar your cylinder all up and it will be a paper weight.
"Installing a Dio Reed Valve Kit on 80cc Motorized Bike | 24mm OKO Carb + Windowing a piston Part 1!" , dude!, I was wanting to see ya install the reed, did we just get punked?, seriously, wtf?
noo noo the reed valve is literally the huge piece the replaced the intake. thats all. its just two bolts into the motor and then the carb. what more is there to show. i think you maybe have though i was gonna put like a new set of reeds into the housing and then put on the thing, if that's true then my bad sir, ill explain in a future video.
I love Ya'll fam, teaching me stuff along the way and enjoying my vids.
Quick tip when dealing with the piston/cylinder. Try to keep metal to metal contact to a minimum whenever you can. when inserting the piston into the cylinder put a good amount of straight two stroke out on the piston rings, the piston, and the cylinder walls as to not scratch them, and to reduce the amount of force needed to put it in. (Because small scratches become larger over time) and try to only insert the piston when you need to, and do it delicately. But other than that the porting was great! And I’ll be looking forward to seeing part 2.
Appreciate the tips and advice brother! thx for watching
Don't ever apologize for liking things that look good, you have superb taste, polish-up your shiny stuff, and let the haters hate, ;-) of course the cylinder-bore is going to be a fraction bigger than the piston, that's what the rings are for ya silly boy, lol, if that cylinder isn't scratched-up or too much, or the Nikasil-plating isn't worn off too much, it will be fine for use, great video young-man!, thanks for sharing.
thx bro and Appreciate the help!
As tight as that fits,which is good,the main thing you Have to check is the Ring Gap.Take them off the piston and make sure there Is a proper gap or as they heat they'll expand against the pins and score your cylinder walls.(I very lightly coat the cylinder with Molybdenum Grease and let it soak in for a couple days.I also put some on the Wrist Pin and in the Roller bearing.It'll burn away after the motor's hot,but it'll not let scoring happen as the oil finally hits them.)I have a very fine steel file for dulling the edges of the rings too.Just the edges.Do Not hit the outside contact surface.>over 3000 miles and not scored
Sorry if that sounds 'preachy'.I'm waiting for it to be above freezing,(mid-Michigan and -1 tonight,Been about 20 for days)and I'm doing a 4th engine kit.I've treated each as above.+1/2 teaspoon of 2-cycle oil drizzled down the connecting rod into the bearing on each side.
Yeah ik. Also a compression tester but I didn’t have any of those things
Lookin forward to second part.
Thanks for the vid.I want to window a piston for my next kit.I almost forgot to look for the ring pins and may've done it backwards.I've been using an BBR looking reed valve with no problems on the open Transfer port head like your black one,but bought an OZ reed valve looking type for the new bike.With the BBR type,I used 2 Exhaust gaskets filed to port match.When I put on a 'Flex Poo-Poo'exhaust the bike wanted to wheelie..(26"Mt.Bike.)
It can be confusing. A lot of pple say it’s a certain way when I look at brand new Pre made pistons with the window and it’s the opposite side. Really confusing
Dio Reed Valve block Upgrade For 48cc/66cc/80cc 2 Stroke Gas Motorized Bicycle WHAT are the dimensions between the bolts

NEVER PUT AN ALUMINUM PISTON IN A STEEL JAW VISE !!!
why? nothing happen. i didnt over tighten it
What's your top speed? I've got a mountain bike with the 66cc, same head you've got and hp carb. Top speed "down hill" 48 MPH.
39 with this heavy ass bike
I like that cards 🎉
Thanks man. Do u have too cover all the unused hose ports on the carb and reed valve?
on the carb no, but the reed valve has this hole or little nipple and its used for Nitrous. i dont have that so i replaced it for a screw.
use this pipe it's the best. It has a wider header than all the other similar pipes.
which pipe is it?
@@retro_2v993 adoro seus videos
Wc 80
@@jhonatangonzagarodriguesam7097 gracias
You windowed the wrong side of the piston triangle or arrow should be facing the exhaust not the intake. 19:30 / Also you would of been better off just buying one all ready done $ 20 - 35 bucks. I know a lot of people like to DIY to save a buck but if you do not know what your doing just pay for it already done. Nice bike looks great be safe.
Some Times the arrow is pointing to the intake side, it also come like that on my kit
yeah i looked it up and even saw the ones already done and i just copied that same design on to mine and it came out just fine i believe.
thats what im saying
You did it Right as the ring gap should be on the Intake side so oiled fuel lubes them,and the cylinder walls better.Not burnt gases.Sometimes the Arrow is on the wrong side.
I just got a chopper bike im prob going to put a80 cc kit on what motor mounts would i need and how do i set up brakes on the chopper
Aye bro that’s awesome and the motor mounts I buy are on eBay. The link to that is here: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_id=133516136123&_nkw=80cc+100cc+OCC+Chopper+Mount+For+2-Stroke+Gas+Motorized+Bicycle+Engine. And the brake setup I just put the chain tensioner upside down and route the chain under the tensioner around the sprocket and back to the motor.
Any more questions and just go to this video and zoom in or pause the video a take a close look. Video link is here:ruclips.net/video/Fl_dV74RzBs/видео.html
Those expansion chambers you have on your exhaust aren't ideal for making power, they are very restrictive. Try to find a cheap 100cc + 2 stroke dirt bike exhaust like I did, you might have to drill holes or weld something but it's definitely worth it
Yeah I’ve noticed that. Back then I thought it was great but now I kinda realized. Thx for reminding me tho bro. And welding or making holes won’t be a prob so I’ll do it some time.
Also making the exhaust to long and not wide enough can cause you to loose torque
@@mtm5143 yeah ok I understand
Dude, for starters, u can't / tell if a piston & cylinder combination has good compression or not by looking at the physical fit ! The ONLY way you can accurately check the compression of a setup is to use a compression tester that u screw into the sparkplug hole when the whole assembly is together ! The main reason for this is because it's NOT the physical piston that gives the compression but rather the PISTON RING ! and secondly, the piston ring and the cylinder wall has to be bed-in correctly before good compression is achieved. Another factor to look into here is that because the piston actually rocks and pivots on the grogeon pin, the cylinder wall hence wears in the shape of a drum and not completely evenly the same from top to bottom.... in short, there is an entire subject spanning over two whole semesters in college when studying to be a qualified mechanic about this topic..how do I know this ?? Lol u don't wanna know.
Anyways, you can never check the fit and torence of components in engines just by eye, you MUST always use the correct measuring equipment such as micrometer, calipers, compression testers etc to achieve accurate measurements.
Thx for the help. But, I know that true compression is judged off of a compression test and that stuff. I don’t have that tool so I just judged it off of that and I judged it off of the compression it had when I tried to start it and well it had compression. I appreciate all the info tho dude ur smart af. But I personally don’t think it’s work using all these tools and knowledge on a motor that is cheaper than a phone lol. I just put all this stuff on it and make content with it to have fun. Again thx tho
You cut window on the exhaust side of the piston son. Arrow should be pointing away from your window. Otherwise good job
You sure? I thought the window was for grabbing more gas and putting it under the piston
Naaaa. Forget the arrows . Always look at where the piston rings meet the 2 pins on the piston . As long as those pins are facing positioned towards the intake that's the proper way. Top piston ring pin should be at your 7oclock and the 2nd down should be around 4 o'clock.
ill make sure for the next piston i do thx
@@JDProductions_YTcan't grab gas from the intake of it's on the exhaust side of you look at the rings there in the side he should have put the window
How fast this bike can go
35 Mph
wait, is that after the reed valve and windowed piston?cause if so, you should be making more power than that on a 66/80@@retro_2v993
Yeah just seeing this vid and you put the window on the wrong side and the piston is supposed to move slightly because of the rings rub against the sides not the piston. And on the next one the black cylinder is a newer better G4 type of cylinder so yeah way better. And compress the rings right against the locator pins if you don't you will scar your cylinder all up and it will be a paper weight.
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I think that's the wrong side of the piston!
?
U sure
It is the arrow is pointing to the window side it should face the exhaust side
It is he windowed the wrong side.
"Installing a Dio Reed Valve Kit on 80cc Motorized Bike | 24mm OKO Carb + Windowing a piston Part 1!" , dude!, I was wanting to see ya install the reed, did we just get punked?, seriously, wtf?
noo noo the reed valve is literally the huge piece the replaced the intake. thats all. its just two bolts into the motor and then the carb. what more is there to show. i think you maybe have though i was gonna put like a new set of reeds into the housing and then put on the thing, if that's true then my bad sir, ill explain in a future video.
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