Hey VileMods, just wanted to thank you for this video as it helped me and the huge headache that was the huge air leak happening with my kit. Your suggestion to wrap the piston with Teflon tape pretty much solved my issues. Additionally, for anyone else struggling with massive air leaks, I also put Teflon tape under the o-rings on the pusher and telescoping pieces, which gave me a near perfect air seal. Hope this helps others and thanks again VileMods.
Thank you for this! I realized I hadn't installed the two rubber spacers on the plunger and now the gun primes sooo much easier! I love the performance on this kit, even if the plunger tube is slightly larger.
@@VileMods bro this video isn't good. You're assuming that everyone has as much experience with this stuff as you. I cant get any of these pins for my life and you literally spent 20 seconds on it. Not everyone has old pins from old guns bro... some of us don't have 15 thousand guns laying around.
@@VileMods like show us how to install this stuff to a STOCK gun it was very foolish of you to think you could make this video of any help to someone who didn't spend ANOTHER $70 on the other Worker set.
@@rushpittsburgh4 There were other video's that show that, why make another one? Pretty sure I mentioned this about Bradley Phillips install guide in the video covering the first kit? You do realize that this kit is designed assuming you have the first one right? Not to mention, if you need a punch to knock the pin out you can get them from any hardware store. I use a pin cause that's what I had at the time. Others have used nails.
The telescopic breech can take a 2x16x20mm o-ring if you would like to add new rings to the seal. I'm having trouble with my stock internals due to lending my blaster to a friend who didn't know about the de-prime and was shooting the blaster while it was primed back 😑 I might just pick up this internal kit and rectify the problem altogether.
I have both metal kits and I have yet to get the hold your thumb over the barrel when you dry fire pop as far as an air seal goes. Any tips? I don’t know where else to seal.
Under the o-ring on the plunger tube. Since this video Worker has added a larger plunger (basically the same as the Retal XPT one) that you can get. I highly recommend grabbing that if you can since the stock Nexus plunger is to small. With the larger plunger you can also skip putting any teflon under the o-ring since it'll seal WAY better.
When you said you still put three wraps of Teflon, is that on the plunger tube under the big O ring? Working on the mod right now and just wanted to double check
Will the nexus pro function fine with the turf ceda spring and a 175FPS tuning cap? Just got the metal upgrade kit and was looking for another mod. Thanks
Do I need to upgrade the spring? I installed both worker internal kits for my nexus pro but the prime handle won’t stay in the forward locked position after a dart is chambered. The metal plunger collapses in on itself....is that a plunger seal issue or the weak spring?
The plunger spring wouldn't effect the priming handle locking into place after chambering I don't think. Sounds like the problem could be the pusher not fully seating into the dart gate. I'd check and make sure all o-rings are lubed and the internals are lined up correctly. Also an easy mistake to make is installing the barrel backwards.
I just bought the metal priming bar worker kit in this video but after watching in full I realized I’m not sure if it will work without the first metal kit with the top rail. Will it?
Is there a kit to make the spectrum shoot half darts? I have the Nexus and spectrum and I love the 100 $10 half darts and would love to use them on my spectrum.
So your best option as of right now is to get the magazine adapter, either from Dart Zone or the one from Worker, and then 3d print this half dart pusher from thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:4620238 I don't see anyone currently selling a kit at this time.
Hi Vile Mods I have this Kit and have installed it, but ran into some problems. First: The catch gets stuck and doesn't lift up when you pull the trigger. Are you getting the same issue? I also had the Pusher rip straight out of the adapter tube when fully primed - WTF I am going to pull apart again and install the original Adapter piece and see if it fixes it. Let me know how you went with the Catch working correctly.
Yeah I'm not having either of those issues. Check some of the following: Double check the catch spring isn't getting kinked or if the catch isn't in the track correctly. If you're still getting issues, try to see if putting a small amount of lubricant on the sides of the catch that slide along the shell to see if that'll help. The pusher popping could be something with the position of the breech block not sitting on the post correctly, not enough/too much lubricant on the o-ring, or possibly the priming bar not sitting correctly in it's tracks that might be causing it not to push 100% forward. One other possibility is making sure the barrel is the correct direction, one side of it has a deeper chamfer that needs to be facing the breech block/pusher. Even just opening the blaster may just 'align' things since they could fall back into place and fix the issues.
Where did you get that mag adapter? I have been trying to find one and I have but i'm not sure if that's the same one you have so i'm just wondering where you yours
Personally I use Super Lube 56204 since it's more of an actual lubricant and less viscous than the Super Lube 92003 cause it's a grease. You do have to be aware that 56204 can NOT be used with red o-rings cause it will actually cause them to break down and fall apart.
@@scottfrancis6745 I used the Super Lube 56204, if you do for any reason use red o-rings (they're not that common but I've seen them used before) you can use something like lithium grease which is what OOD, Worker, etc. tend to sell or send out with their mod kits.
That's the reason I wrapped the teflon tape around the plunger to get a better seal. We'll see if Worker decides to make a slightly larger plunger to go with these metal kits in the future.
Nice vid! Curious to see how the metal priming bar feels in comparison to the plastic one. My personal biggest grip of the nexus has always been how nasty the prime feels.
Everything about the prime is bad. The handle is pretty much always going to break bc its so sloppy and theres nothing to brace the priming handle. Its a terrible design
Teflon goes on the plunger head under where the o-ring is located. I'm still on the fence about doing this step at all to be honest but it's at your discretion if you want to put any on there. Personally, I hope they offer a updated plunger that is designed specifically with this tube since there is quite a large gap between them.
Hey VileMods, just wanted to thank you for this video as it helped me and the huge headache that was the huge air leak happening with my kit. Your suggestion to wrap the piston with Teflon tape pretty much solved my issues. Additionally, for anyone else struggling with massive air leaks, I also put Teflon tape under the o-rings on the pusher and telescoping pieces, which gave me a near perfect air seal.
Hope this helps others and thanks again VileMods.
I’m glad your back youtube has been empty and lonely without you, good video I’m awaiting the review with much eagerness
Added both Worker metal kits this past weekend and this vid was most helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for this! I realized I hadn't installed the two rubber spacers on the plunger and now the gun primes sooo much easier! I love the performance on this kit, even if the plunger tube is slightly larger.
Yeah those things kinda blend in with the stock plunger tube.
@@VileMods bro this video isn't good. You're assuming that everyone has as much experience with this stuff as you. I cant get any of these pins for my life and you literally spent 20 seconds on it. Not everyone has old pins from old guns bro... some of us don't have 15 thousand guns laying around.
@@VileMods like show us how to install this stuff to a STOCK gun it was very foolish of you to think you could make this video of any help to someone who didn't spend ANOTHER $70 on the other Worker set.
@@rushpittsburgh4 There were other video's that show that, why make another one? Pretty sure I mentioned this about Bradley Phillips install guide in the video covering the first kit? You do realize that this kit is designed assuming you have the first one right?
Not to mention, if you need a punch to knock the pin out you can get them from any hardware store. I use a pin cause that's what I had at the time. Others have used nails.
This is the cleanest how-to video I've ever seen, I swear. Bravo!
Good to hear your velvety voice again. Top notch quality video as always 👌
Thank you for the detailed guide. Helps alot.
The telescopic breech can take a 2x16x20mm o-ring if you would like to add new rings to the seal.
I'm having trouble with my stock internals due to lending my blaster to a friend who didn't know about the de-prime and was shooting the blaster while it was primed back 😑
I might just pick up this internal kit and rectify the problem altogether.
The metal prophecy pt that's on the worker mod website is slightly larger as well.
I have both metal kits and I have yet to get the hold your thumb over the barrel when you dry fire pop as far as an air seal goes. Any tips? I don’t know where else to seal.
At 12:55 you said you used 3 wraps of Teflon, but I don’t see it in the video. Where did you wrap the Teflon? Thanks!
Under the o-ring on the plunger tube. Since this video Worker has added a larger plunger (basically the same as the Retal XPT one) that you can get. I highly recommend grabbing that if you can since the stock Nexus plunger is to small. With the larger plunger you can also skip putting any teflon under the o-ring since it'll seal WAY better.
I’ve done all this and more and I still can’t get that good of an air seal. No pop when I take my thumb off the barrel
I have found that if you put your palm over the barrel it seals better
How tf am I supposed to remove the pin? Shits not meant to come out I dont think
do u need lube to put the pieces back together? and what lube works
When you said you still put three wraps of Teflon, is that on the plunger tube under the big O ring? Working on the mod right now and just wanted to double check
I don’t feel any resistance when I plug the barrel. Is the little green O ring that comes with the kit a spare? Thanks in advance
Will the nexus pro function fine with the turf ceda spring and a 175FPS tuning cap? Just got the metal upgrade kit and was looking for another mod. Thanks
Idk about y’all but in tempted to forge an m4 style priming bolt or a bolt action
Do I need to upgrade the spring? I installed both worker internal kits for my nexus pro but the prime handle won’t stay in the forward locked position after a dart is chambered. The metal plunger collapses in on itself....is that a plunger seal issue or the weak spring?
I'm having the same problem, did you ever solve it?
The plunger spring wouldn't effect the priming handle locking into place after chambering I don't think. Sounds like the problem could be the pusher not fully seating into the dart gate. I'd check and make sure all o-rings are lubed and the internals are lined up correctly. Also an easy mistake to make is installing the barrel backwards.
I just bought the metal priming bar worker kit in this video but after watching in full I realized I’m not sure if it will work without the first metal kit with the top rail. Will it?
Just found out it will not after taking it apart...😡😡🤬
It will just need to replace with original parts some other parts
@@justingordon-niemietz5700 yeah I got it figured out, thanks. I also totally forgot I made the above comments 😅
Yes. Needed this
Where do you put the teflon tape? My nexus with both kits wont even get the dart out of the barrel
Does the nexus pro have an air restrictor
They do not.
Is there a kit to make the spectrum shoot half darts?
I have the Nexus and spectrum and I love the 100 $10 half darts and would love to use them on my spectrum.
So your best option as of right now is to get the magazine adapter, either from Dart Zone or the one from Worker, and then 3d print this half dart pusher from thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:4620238
I don't see anyone currently selling a kit at this time.
@@VileMods is that pusher a direct bolt on or I have to shave some stuff off?
@@oso999x It depends how you print it and what filament you use but it should just bolt on from the looks of it.
Hi Vile Mods
I have this Kit and have installed it, but ran into some problems.
First: The catch gets stuck and doesn't lift up when you pull the trigger. Are you getting the same issue?
I also had the Pusher rip straight out of the adapter tube when fully primed - WTF
I am going to pull apart again and install the original Adapter piece and see if it fixes it.
Let me know how you went with the Catch working correctly.
Yeah I'm not having either of those issues. Check some of the following:
Double check the catch spring isn't getting kinked or if the catch isn't in the track correctly. If you're still getting issues, try to see if putting a small amount of lubricant on the sides of the catch that slide along the shell to see if that'll help.
The pusher popping could be something with the position of the breech block not sitting on the post correctly, not enough/too much lubricant on the o-ring, or possibly the priming bar not sitting correctly in it's tracks that might be causing it not to push 100% forward. One other possibility is making sure the barrel is the correct direction, one side of it has a deeper chamfer that needs to be facing the breech block/pusher.
Even just opening the blaster may just 'align' things since they could fall back into place and fix the issues.
The catch made it harder to prime.
Wonder why they didnt make a metal plunger?
It could have even been plastic as long as it was slightly larger to go with the tube size.
Where did you get that mag adapter? I have been trying to find one and I have but i'm not sure if that's the same one you have so i'm just wondering where you yours
What lubricant do you use for your mods like this?
Personally I use Super Lube 56204 since it's more of an actual lubricant and less viscous than the Super Lube 92003 cause it's a grease.
You do have to be aware that 56204 can NOT be used with red o-rings cause it will actually cause them to break down and fall apart.
@@VileMods thanks. What should use in that particular case then? And what did you use for this particular mod?
@@scottfrancis6745 I used the Super Lube 56204, if you do for any reason use red o-rings (they're not that common but I've seen them used before) you can use something like lithium grease which is what OOD, Worker, etc. tend to sell or send out with their mod kits.
@@VileMods Thank You.
@@VileMods why do you prefer 56204 instead of lithium grease?
The new plunger tube is too big for the orgininal plunger rod.. it leaks air :( someone has the same problem?
Have you wrapped any Teflon on it?
That's the reason I wrapped the teflon tape around the plunger to get a better seal. We'll see if Worker decides to make a slightly larger plunger to go with these metal kits in the future.
I have been trying to bang my old bolt pin out for 45 minutes. #impossible
Nice vid! Curious to see how the metal priming bar feels in comparison to the plastic one. My personal biggest grip of the nexus has always been how nasty the prime feels.
Everything about the prime is bad. The handle is pretty much always going to break bc its so sloppy and theres nothing to brace the priming handle. Its a terrible design
teflon on plunger tube: can you explain that please?
Teflon goes on the plunger head under where the o-ring is located. I'm still on the fence about doing this step at all to be honest but it's at your discretion if you want to put any on there. Personally, I hope they offer a updated plunger that is designed specifically with this tube since there is quite a large gap between them.
Hi nice vid 🙂
Algorithm comment, nice vid tho.
Algorithm reply, Thanks!