Working in cast iron is something I really enjoy, the swarf simply falling off the parent part, and getting a nice smooth finish. That project is coming along very well, looking forward to hearing it run, even if it already has. Thanks, Andrew, fine work!
Hello Andrew,very well planned video.nice and easy to watch, you, re really enjoying what you are doing, you can see this in your presentation.good luck with your project.cheers,till next time.
Hi Ray - glad you like the video format. Not sure how many more will be in the series as it's a bit like a never ending story at the moment. I hope the videos will at least inspire other novices like me to give it go. All the best - till next time. Andrew
I have a bit of advice on turning cylinder covers. You made them with a serious of facing cuts. That works but depending on the backlash in the lathe it can be hard to match up the steps left by that kind of cutting. What I do is set a carriage stop at the depth of the cut. Then I turn the profile along the long axis. Using that Approach you could have made the undercut on the lathe at the same time you turned the profile. Tony
Andrew, be warned that sometimes in the model engineering fraternity, to keep the nuts and bolts in scale, that there are nuts and bolts that are 1 size smaller than standard. For example, you can get 7 BA bolts with a 7 head and you can also get 7 BA bolts with an 8 BA head. Nice spanner by the way a good quality one.
sure but this is first I've heard any bolt mistakes in kits from them. The only lack I've seen from YT modellers is an occasional sketchy casting, usually in the flywheel
Thanks Pete - Crankshaft next, but I've just spend 2 hours trying to understand two sentences in Tubal Cain's guide! I still don't get it so I will just have to press on. Oh, and then I spent another hour trying to find a misplaced tool! Cheers Andrew
Have the drawings been changed at some point, from a 5-bolt pattern (top) to six-bolt? And I remember a 4-bolt pattern on the bottom cover. My replacement plans have six. I like six, and I strive to make the hole patterns match. Rotary table helps!
Yeah, I think the drawings must have changed at some stage. Having recently installed a TouchDRO on the mill, I now find it far easier drilling circular holes - using the circular function. I did a series on the TouchDRO if you fancy making one. Have a great day. Andrew
I'd love to have a large Mill. Got a Chinese one, but seldom use it. Normally what I build can be machined on my CNC'd Sherline mill and lathe. I can generate Gcode for circular patterns, rectangular patterns, etc. but for the castings I think I just use it to lay out the holes, or position the spindle to each hole in sequence. (my hands get sore anymore). I'll check out TouchDRO. Great job!
I kind of goofed and bought an S50 kit on ebay. It only came with the one chart, maybe thats all you get, I don't know. I don't hear well and you keep referring to what sounds like Tublicon. Is this a book on these? I don't know if I'll be able to machine this anyway, as my machinery is far to large, but thought I might try it anyway, but would like a few more instructions. Thank You, I've been watching your videos and have much more info than I had.
Hi there. The kit only comes with one sheet of drawings. Tubal Cain produced a series of detailed instructions for Model Engineer in 1992. This is what I refer to. If you expand my video description just underneath my video you will see links to these articles. You can download and print them for free. They are really helpful. I hope you manage to have a go at making the S50. Good luck and have fun! All the best. Andrew
Thank You, I'll look that up. My problem is my smallest lathe is a 22" x 80" and my vertical mill is a Bridgeport series 2. I really didn't think about this before I bid on it. I'm going to give it a try, I think milling machine wise I'll be ok. Lathe wise I'll have to see I guess. 12" 3 jaw and 20" 4 jaw chucks seem a bit overkill, plus speed limitations. A 12" rotary table seems a bit much too.@@learningturningmetal
I believe the jaws should have been reversed for Tubelcain's collet to work fully. At no time, with the jaws as thus, was the ever any pressure on the partial cuts to clamp. The only clamping was on the very back edge of the cover. @7:38
Hi Grant. Many thanks for pointing that out. I'm not sure why I didn't realise that at the time. I hope your comment will help others that might try to follow my method. Cheers Andrew
This is well thought out precision machining and suggest using an acid brush + motor oil + 30% kerosene for parting, drilling and tapping for better finishes and to increase tool life... Cheers....
Hi Paul. This was a kit of un-machined castings. Each part needs to be machined to the drawing specifications. I think Stuart sell a set of machined castings but that wouldn't help develop my machining skills. Not as much fun either 😉 Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I ordered the unmachined kit last week, so now I'm Shi#$ting myself. Still nothing ventured, nothing gained. Really enjoyed watching you work. Cheers.
Hi - It's a 110mm Axminster Delux rotary table with 3 t-slots. I also purchased a 150mm 4 t-slot version from Axminster. Hope that helps. Cheers Andrew
04:32 to stop that chattering.... just keep the tool on touch with the Material.... turn of the lathe... an pass some turns by hand.... than back power on the machine....
Working in cast iron is something I really enjoy, the swarf simply falling off the parent part, and getting a nice smooth finish. That project is coming along very well, looking forward to hearing it run, even if it already has. Thanks, Andrew, fine work!
Thanks John!
Dear Andrew, Thank you for another enjoyable experience.
Cheers!
Hello Andrew,very well planned video.nice and easy to watch, you, re really enjoying what you are doing, you can see this in your presentation.good luck with your project.cheers,till next time.
Hi Ray - glad you like the video format. Not sure how many more will be in the series as it's a bit like a never ending story at the moment. I hope the videos will at least inspire other novices like me to give it go.
All the best - till next time.
Andrew
I have a bit of advice on turning cylinder covers. You made them with a serious of facing cuts. That works but depending on the backlash in the lathe it can be hard to match up the steps left by that kind of cutting. What I do is set a carriage stop at the depth of the cut. Then I turn the profile along the long axis. Using that Approach you could have made the undercut on the lathe at the same time you turned the profile.
Tony
Hi Tony
Many thanks for the advice, I will try to remember that approach next time.
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew, be warned that sometimes in the model engineering fraternity, to keep the nuts and bolts in scale, that there are nuts and bolts that are 1 size smaller than standard. For example, you can get 7 BA bolts with a 7 head and you can also get 7 BA bolts with an 8 BA head. Nice spanner by the way a good quality one.
Thanks Dave. I didn't realise that, and it answers some of my past confusion.
Cheers
Andrew
sure but this is first I've heard any bolt mistakes in kits from them. The only lack I've seen from YT modellers is an occasional sketchy casting, usually in the flywheel
exellent andrew, im making the same engine following you thanks..
Thanks mate. I hope yours turns out well.
Cheers
Andrew
I'd be happy with the way that's turning out Andrew, looking forward to the next installment ... Andy
Thanks Andy - I think I surprised myself with the way it turned out.
All the best.
Andrew
very well done andrew i look foward to your videos . please keep them comming PETE
Thanks Pete - Crankshaft next, but I've just spend 2 hours trying to understand two sentences in Tubal Cain's guide! I still don't get it so I will just have to press on. Oh, and then I spent another hour trying to find a misplaced tool!
Cheers
Andrew
Well done!
Cheers Tom!
Excellent!
Have the drawings been changed at some point, from a 5-bolt pattern (top) to six-bolt? And I remember a 4-bolt pattern on the bottom cover. My replacement plans have six. I like six, and I strive to make the hole patterns match. Rotary table helps!
Yeah, I think the drawings must have changed at some stage. Having recently installed a TouchDRO on the mill, I now find it far easier drilling circular holes - using the circular function. I did a series on the TouchDRO if you fancy making one.
Have a great day.
Andrew
I'd love to have a large Mill. Got a Chinese one, but seldom use it. Normally what I build can be machined on my CNC'd Sherline mill and lathe. I can generate Gcode for circular patterns, rectangular patterns, etc. but for the castings I think I just use it to lay out the holes, or position the spindle to each hole in sequence. (my hands get sore anymore). I'll check out TouchDRO. Great job!
I kind of goofed and bought an S50 kit on ebay. It only came with the one chart, maybe thats all you get, I don't know. I don't hear well and you keep referring to what sounds like Tublicon. Is this a book on these? I don't know if I'll be able to machine this anyway, as my machinery is far to large, but thought I might try it anyway, but would like a few more instructions. Thank You, I've been watching your videos and have much more info than I had.
Hi there. The kit only comes with one sheet of drawings. Tubal Cain produced a series of detailed instructions for Model Engineer in 1992. This is what I refer to. If you expand my video description just underneath my video you will see links to these articles. You can download and print them for free. They are really helpful. I hope you manage to have a go at making the S50. Good luck and have fun!
All the best.
Andrew
Thank You, I'll look that up. My problem is my smallest lathe is a 22" x 80" and my vertical mill is a Bridgeport series 2. I really didn't think about this before I bid on it. I'm going to give it a try, I think milling machine wise I'll be ok. Lathe wise I'll have to see I guess. 12" 3 jaw and 20" 4 jaw chucks seem a bit overkill, plus speed limitations. A 12" rotary table seems a bit much too.@@learningturningmetal
I believe the jaws should have been reversed for Tubelcain's collet to work fully. At no time, with the jaws as thus, was the ever any pressure on the partial cuts to clamp. The only clamping was on the very back edge of the cover. @7:38
Hi Grant. Many thanks for pointing that out. I'm not sure why I didn't realise that at the time. I hope your comment will help others that might try to follow my method.
Cheers
Andrew
This is well thought out precision machining and suggest using an acid brush + motor oil + 30% kerosene for parting, drilling and tapping for better finishes and to increase tool life... Cheers....
Thanks Dave - and thanks for the tip. I will give it a try.
Cheers
Andrew
cast iron is always machined dry
I enjoyed that !
Cheers mate!
Weren't the cylinder covers included in the kit?
Hi Paul. This was a kit of un-machined castings. Each part needs to be machined to the drawing specifications. I think Stuart sell a set of machined castings but that wouldn't help develop my machining skills. Not as much fun either 😉
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal I ordered the unmachined kit last week, so now I'm Shi#$ting myself. Still nothing ventured, nothing gained. Really enjoyed watching you work. Cheers.
@@oldmanonabike233 its a great starter engine and a good way to learn.
what size rotary table are you using
Hi - It's a 110mm Axminster Delux rotary table with 3 t-slots. I also purchased a 150mm 4 t-slot version from Axminster.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thanks, I really enjoy your clips
04:32 to stop that chattering.... just keep the tool on touch with the Material.... turn of the lathe... an pass some turns by hand.... than back power on the machine....