Chapter 11 tv 007 - "Not today"

Sometimes I feel ridiculous driving around checking waves. Checking swell forecast. Checking wind. Checking tide. Rubbing elbows with groms trying to catch a wave to do a trick with someone standing on the beach with a camera to record it.
Some day I’ll have to hang it up. Stop forcing my fossilized body to pump and thrash and relax into a more soulful manner of riding waves. Maybe buy an old van and burn some sage. Get resin tints and grow a pony tail and wrap it in a bun. Switch to craft beer. Hang up the thruster and glide in from out the back on a 7’6 single fin. I’ll put my arms in the air when I reach the crest of every gently peeling wave.
But not today. The waves are shit and onshore. After I write this I’m going to clean the wax off my 5’9 square tail epoxy and call Matt to see what he’s doing. He probably won’t pick up. He’ll probably call me back in about 5 minutes and I’ll ask him if he’s seen the ocean and he’ll say no he had a few things he had to take care of but he was thinking about going look at the wood. I’ll say I was thinking the same. I’ve got a sore knee so I’ll roll on a foam thing for like 2 minutes before I get distracted. I’ll hop in my car and head south with a Howard Stern re-run playing from my radio at maximum volume. If it’s a stupid episode I’ll listen to Royal Dog Shit for the 1000th time.
When I pull up Matt will be on his phone. When he gets off his phone he’ll say he’s seen a few. I’ll say yeah looks fun enough for a surf and after all, If it’s shitty we’ll come in. Then we’ll suit up, I’ll ask him how his bitcoin trading is going. He’ll say ‘awwww man not so hot’ and I’ll laugh at his misfortune. The waves will be average but I’ll be able to hit the lip a few times and maybe do an air reverse. Matt will pearl going straight at least once and i will yell “I can’t believe you are still riding that board!” I’ll be happy I surfed. The waves could be good soon and I’ve got a new 6’0 with glass ons that I’m excited to ride.
And for the record. If you ever see me on a set at Rincon throwing my arms in the air on a 7’6 single fin feel free to burn me…
Dane.

[@aarondiaz2506]

That text in the description was funny. After days and days of shitty waves, crowded line ups, driving around, my shoulder killing me.. I also think in "relax into a more soulful manner of riding waves" and i fact i have do it a few times and feel good and have fun for 2 o 3 session surfing an "alternative craft" but not more than that , the fourth day i'm back to my shortboard.

[@Henridrake]

That’s funny ‘cause every one tried to copy Dane but no one could find the way to produce this magical way of surfing. Good luck kids !

[@adamlorden5666]

You can tell that he deeply loves surfing and everything that comes with it. Good luck copying that.

[@Henridrake]

@@adamlorden5666 I agree ! Dane got an education and above all a heart ! Some pro nowadays got none of these...

[@adamlorden5666]

@@Henridrake because its seen as a sport.

[@venturabrothers3771]

dane reading waves is insane, so creative so beautiful

[@grant.larson]

Best video series in surfing for sure, thank u guys for not selling out like everyone else🙏

[@micbancap]

That foam climb though ...enviable to say the least.

[@adamlorden5666]

3:23 pants jizzing left there.

[@mrfelipehurtado]

Insane 🤘🏻

[@gtov7812]

🙌🏻

[@civilsocietyprivateinteres1711]

How about you buy yourself some bitcoin, I've gone big into it and have made money..