I replaced my oxygen sensors this week. My car has 230,000 miles and the previous owner never replaced them. Turns out, they were both broken and for God knows how long. My car began running rough and backfiring, and once at a stop, would not move an inch, but idled perfectly fine. My guess, carbon built up everywhere it could and now I'm replacing just about everything I can think of. I got underneath my car and tried like hell to break them loose with no success. Breaker bars, O2 sensor kit from autozone, no dice. So I went to my neighborhood mechanic just to have the bolts loosened and it set me back $35. Took her back home and replaced the oxygen sensors ($20 each). Don't forget! There are two different types of o2 sensors, the Upstream O2 sensor (before catalytic converter) and downstream O2 sensor (behind the catalytic converter). You can't use the same oxygen sensor for both positions. Also, don't forget to reset your car's computer after changing dirty or broken sensors, especially if your CEL came on. If you're catalytic converter is toast and you have a cheap car in an area with no emissions tests, you can buy an O2 sensor adapter that will "trick" your computer into thinking the catalytic converter is there and fine. They sell these adapters on walmart. com for 10 bucks, and with great reviews. Anyway, I've done a ton of work to my car in the past couple weeks, trying to get to the root of my intermittent mechanical issue, and keeping my fingers crossed that I fixed her. Tomorrow I'm resetting her computer and taking her out for the big drive. Wish me luck! :)
I have the same issue on my ford explorer. I have changed the catalytic convertor and the two oxogen sensor and fixed the issue. The next day again come the check engine light. Then i realize and watch the youtube videos. Many of them are suggesting to put fuel injector and yesterday i put fuel injector including the full tank petrol. Fortunately it is success today and the check engine light has been disappear.
When you first start your car, your pcm runs in open loop. When in open loop the pcm ignores the information it receives from the O2 sensors. That can't cause a hard start because the O2 sensor won't come on line until they get how enough to work.
I changed my ignition coils, spark plugs, 2 new catalytic converters, new throttle body, new alternator, and lastly I put some fuel injector cleaner in. The misfire is fixed, the idle and the car shutting off is fixed. But the thing is, my car feels heavy when I accelerate to go faster and it has poor gas mileage. Today my check engine light popped up so idk if I needa change this 02 sensor or what. (I’m so close to giving up)
@@ounloyal5885 if it’s shutting off then it might be the throttle body, I put a new one in but you can also just use a old toothbrush and buy some throttle body cleaner to clean all that build up.
I have a code reading P0060, is this the same issue. When I googled it, it says bad 02 sensor. You didn't mention that when you ran down the code numbers, I didn't hear P0060....
My car is making a rattling sound where the o2 sensor is located. Only happens on cold start for 3 minutes then the rattling fades until unnoticable. Could the rattling on cold start for 2-4minutes only be a sign of bad o2 sensor or is it normal?
Sounds like it might just be the heat sheild on the exhaust. Might be able to bend it so it's not touching the exaust pipe. If you find it it's just heat sheild then yes its nothing to worry about....
great , informative video , I wonder if you come across this strange problem engine 651 2.1 L (P02A7=cylinder4 fuel trim at min ) from the code you would think injector problem but sadly that was not the case , I swapped inj4 with inj1 and still the same problem P02A7 , went toward vacuum and checked all vacuum parts (intake manifold /vacuum resonator/turbo actuator/transducers/vacuum hoses) with no sign of vacuum leaks at all , in fact the system holding 15inch vacuum with no problem at a all , in regards to injectors tested with injector leak test all four injectors are leaking the same amount of fuel so I can't fault them , engine idling is fine / drive fine the only thing is if you cleared that code , you will get the full power of the engine I mean the turbo will be working as it should be until you drive in steady speed like 65miles/hour for 10 to 15 minutes as soon as you take your foot off gas pedal the check light will be trigrad and you will start loosing power specially up hill , the only suspect left for me is o2 sensor , I haven't replaced it yet , but when I disconnected no check engine light show up as if its connected , but am thinking that could be the o2 sensor is faulty thats why when the engine on that steady speed and by the time I let off the gas pedal , the ECU request the oxygen from the o2 sensor and most likely the wrong values from the o2 sensor is the suspect what do you think ? your help is appreciated
I have a Chrysler 300 with hella problems including a transmission gear thing and that was the driveshaft. I have 4 codes left and 3 of them indicate the O2 sensors. And 1 is p0300 which is just a multiple misfire code. I changed almost everything except the spark plugs cause i thought they were changed. The car sounds better now but i hope the o2 sensors is the main cause of rough idling
Well, i had a full tank on my nissan. Ran 29km due to some errands. I noticed the fuel drop to 3/4 of the gauge. I tried to refuel again to check how much it consumed, or if my gas tank floater sensor is faulty. My god, it really did lose some fuel, significant amount. I lost about 9.3L of fuel on 29km. My car normally runs 7-8 km per liter! Could anyone know what else is causing this to drink so much gas? 1. Spark plugs are replaced and original parts 2. Replaced air filter 3. Newly changed oil (Amsoil OE 100% synthetic 5w-30) 4. Even the ATF is on the manual spec, Nissan Matic D.
Could this cause my van to sometimes mot start? I plugged in my OBDII sensor and it gives this code “p0036 ho2s heater control circuit (bank 1 sensor 2) location “ and I have the check engine light on. 99% of the time it starts fine, and 1% of the time it either lags to turn on (I turn the key and it needs a few seconds to for the engine to start), or in the worst cases it won’t start. If I then wait 2-3 minutes, it starts up just fine
Hi.I have w140 S320 96y and O² sensor wont work correctly, its on ON few sec and then its shut down/OFF Do i need to replace O² sensor? There is many different sensors in the market, witch one i need do buy?
Thanks for the video, I'm having a problem with my O2 sensor, my catalytic converter was taken from my Toyota prius 2008 with sensor 2 together but after fixing it with Toyota original parts, the light has been popping up with code P0137, the O2 sensor low voltage bank 1 sensor 2, I went to Toyota they said sensor 2 is new and is good but it is sensor 1 that is bad and my gas consumption has gone up 25% but now I have changed the sensor 1, still the light is kept on coming back, I didn't have this problem until my catalytic was stolen. What is the solution?
If the P0137 code continues to come up even after replacing the Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor, then there may be a problem with the wiring or circuitry that connects the sensor to the engine control module. This could be due to a damaged or corroded connector or wiring harness. It is also possible that the catalytic converter replacement was not done properly and is not functioning as it should. A poorly functioning catalytic converter can cause the O2 sensors to report incorrect readings, leading to issues such as decreased fuel efficiency and engine performance.
Could this cause a cylinder 6 misfire I’ve checked spark plugs coil packs injectors and everything is fine I even replaced my camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor it doesn’t idle as badly as it did but the check engine light flashes could the o2 sensor cause this.
I have a skoda yeti that goes at limp mode when its cold for years now. i have done a total revamp on the engine, repaired the software, changed cold valve and heat sensor and it still happens. any idea why?
For faulty O2 sensor could be any problem behind O2 sensor and these are: leaking fuel injectors (carbon build up), faulty Lmm sensor, faulty intake vacum air leaking, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel pump. All this affects the incorrect air-fuel ratio, therefore the error on the O2 Lambda sensor.
After change of spark plugs SV6 commodore vf. Now slight rough idle notice but drives and accelration is smooth like butter. whats cause???? idle sits on 550 and stable even on idle but i can feel slightly rough. no check engine lights no vaccum leaks
Interesting, because I have same SV6 with slight rough idle, not enough to set off any codes, but it is noticable. My scanner does not show any codes, (Topdon and Vident). But O2 sensor 1 bank 1 is lower on voltage and bank 1 short term fuel Trim is leaner than bank 2. I am finding it hard to diagnose the issue.
@@1xbettrick Don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about. Can you explain how fuel trims work? Do you know how to bypass your O2 sensors for diagnostic purposes? All you are doing is telling someone to replace a part before you even diagnose it as a problem.
Well my car has been stalling and I took it to the mechanic and he replaced the throttle body for the code on the scanner I guess it was broken and that didn’t even fix the issue of my car my has still been stalling after I make a complete stop at a light or idle to a stop sign when I’m driving or when I’m turning a corner my car just dies out my dash still has power but my steering wheel locks up if i turned my engine off i need help any ideas…no scans pop up could it be a fuel injector issue or 02 issue I’m not sure any ideas?
Everything he's saying my vehicle is currently going through at 87k. I was advised it may be a head gasket failure but we'll see when I swap em out for FREE.
Can these sensors go out at 30k miles? Or more likely that something that caused it to? My cars eml is p0138 but runs fine. And strangely getting better mpg
My car fuel consumption is very high about 40% increase. I was thinking it's oxygen sensor but I don't have check engine light On, I scan codes and no fault. What exactly could be the reason
Have you checked for some kind of leak? Maybe you can get a large card board, split it from the center to get two then cardboard and place under car and monitor it like that. Maybe it’s dripping out. If not, try monitoring the rpm. Do you notice if it has higher than usual rpm, either when idling or when you’re driving. A next thing it could be, if no code is showing up, is maybe the car has and Over Drive available, you have it activated. Essentially, it keeps the car running in the smaller gears, so if you’re on a highway or long free roads, it’s using gas pointlessly. You’d mainly use it if you need some power and not speed. You’d maybe use it to climb up a somewhat steep incline. Or maybe you’re trying to help pull a car out from a ditch. You can do a little research on if your car has OD and how to enable and disable it. I remember I drove my cousin’s Tacoma, Dont recall year, but it’s not a recent model, and the OD button was on the shifter. I accidentally pressed it and was wondering why it was driving funny.
Right now I am on here tryna fix my O2 sensor connector. Idk if it’s been disconnected a while, but I have the pesky code and OEM parts are a little to expensive for my liking. Lmao. The contact point of one of the 4 contact points inside the sensor connector is broken. And I’m having issues with Mpg efficiency too. I figured maybe the bank 2 sensor 2 is the one that helps monitor and controls the air/fuel mixture. If it doesn’t get feedback, it just keeps throwing in more fuel than it needs. God having a car is a pain. What’s worse, it’s difficult to fucking unscrew this shit.
If you are looking to just throw money away, following advice in videos like this is an excellent way to do it. I guess no one realized that the voice in the video is computer generated. How did you come up with a an airflow sensor with for a bank one lean condition? That might be the problem, but an 0172 is a generic code, which means there are many things that could turn it on. When you see a bunch of lights come on for systems that are primarily safety features, its considered normal. For example, if you have an issue with your ABS system, your vehicle will automatically shut down other systems like, traction control, parking assist, adaptive cruise control, lane drift condition, etc. All of those systems won't work without ABS, so they all get shut down as a precaution.
Hi there, hope you are doing well sir I would have a question about my car if you could help me out. I was just wondering. MOT has been done to my care which is a Ford fiesta, before the MOT the noise level was high in the car, its consumption was also high and it's felt like it doesn't have much power in it. after running a test on its computer to find any problems with the car, everything was fine. oil has been changed, oil filter and also Air filter was changed, last year spark plugs were changed, catalytic converter, oxygen sensor and they reset the on board computer. The engine ran very nicely without effort, very quietly, very quickly and its fuel consumption was perfect no noise whatsoever. The yellow engine error light came on when we were traveling, the noise level increased, the consumption also increased, the performance decreased. now I don't know what to do... any suggestions please
Yes, a bad O2 sensor can cause a failed emissions test even if the check engine light is not on and there are no error codes stored in the engine control module. If the O2 sensor is faulty, it may not be able to accurately measure the oxygen levels in the exhaust gases, which can result in increased emissions. This could cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test, even if there are no other apparent issues.
@@carproblemsmax Will a bad sensor cause the truck to shake stutter and won't accelerate from slow or stop to go? It runs fine when I floor it but in the city stop and go makes it want to stall out but doesn't but it won't accelerate until I floor it. Could a bad o2 sensor do this?
Yes, a bad O2 (oxygen) sensor can potentially cause your car to vibrate when you drive off from a complete stop. If the O2 sensor is malfunctioning or sending incorrect readings to the ECU, it can disrupt the engine's fuel management system. This can lead to an imbalance in the air-fuel mixture, resulting in poor engine performance, rough idling, and potentially vibrations during acceleration.
Got a 2002 Buick LeSabre limited off fb marketplace previous owner didn't replace intake manifold gasket right o2 sensor was going out ignition control module was going out 20 year old spark plugs og fuel pump and fuel filter 3 months later got everything done except o2 sensor 😂
How do I diagnose this issue I have a n55 I’ve changed spark plugs coil packs fuel injectors and vvt solenoid and still sluggish I think your video diagnose the o2 sensor but I don’t have cats
It's worth noting that even if you don't have catalytic converters installed in your vehicle, you still have oxygen sensors that monitor the engine's air-fuel ratio. The sensors are located before and after the catalytic converters in most vehicles, but in your case, they would be located upstream and downstream of the secondary air injection system. Firstly, you can use a scan tool to read any diagnostic trouble codes. If the O2 sensor is malfunctioning, you may see a code related to the sensor or the engine's air-fuel ratio. If there are no codes present, you can use a multimeter to test the oxygen sensor's electrical resistance and voltage output. The resistance should be within a certain range, depending on the sensor's specifications, and the voltage should fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.9 volts when the engine is running.
I have santro xing car.when i drove about 3km and when i turn it off the engine . as soon as i try to start at the same minute i could not start the car it doesnt take the start so pls help me
O2 sensor down stream code came on in my 2010 300..changed it out an still there an runnin rough an jerkin like its gona die while ideling drivin a certain speed or sometimes shifts hard around 35 40pmh or wont shift in the next gear..gona change out the up stream next..anyone have the same problem an figuiit out yet? Put a new starter in it but sometimes cranks for 5 ish sec longer than it should before starting.
You have to diagnose the problem, not just replace parts until you guess correctly. Your O2 sensors can't cause a hard start condition because they don't work when they're cold. Your PCM ignores them and they only come online when they reach a specific operating temperature. About 600 degrees. You have to look somewhere else.
i just upgraded my fuel pump and threw in gtr 550cc fuel injectors into my infiniti g35 n it was running decent with rough idle but now i cant get it to start but when it does i gotta hit the gas to keep it running n if i stop it stalls i got the code p0131 and p0151 saying low voltage on bank 1 and 2 for upstream, im wondering if anyone knows if the 02 sensors themselves are bad or that im just throwing in to much fuel i planned to get it dyno tuned, also i never got the codes before or at least i dont remember having them before
Thats certainly interesting. Most likely will be the O2 sensor, due to the age of the vehicle or perhaps the Oxygen intake is struggling to meet the demand of Fuel injected with the new modifications. My vehicle (Manual VW Jetta 04) would stall at idle or if the revolutions in the engine became too low at neutral, it would stall. I replaced my air vacuum tubes (cracked and broken) and got the true cold air intake installed correctly because the previous owner didn’t attach it properly. My engine stopped stalling afterwards and I hadn’t had the problem since, however the code appears every once in a while despite it running decently. My vehicle went from 18 mpg to 27 after that fix, however I believe that my O2 sensor is bad or I need to replace a faulty fuel injector.
There are four common problems with oxygen-fuel ratios that cause the voltage in the o2 sensors to drop. Either Fuel injectors, a leak in the exhaust, bad o2 sensors, or improper air intake
If you are going to modify your vehicle, you should know what you're doing. Mods bring your sensor data out of spec, and unless you know how to compensate for the changes, you'll have problems. O2 sensors can't cause a hard start for one simple reason. O2 sensors only work when they're hot. (aprox. 600 degrees). Before they reach operating temp, they give bad readings. Because of this, you would get a check engine light every time you start the car with a cold motor. To deal with this, your pcm has 2 modes of operation. Open and closed loop. When you first start the car, the pcm defaults to open loop, and stays in open loop until your O2 sensors reach a minimum temperature. The important thing to remember, is when your vehicle is running in open loop, it disregards the reading it gets from the O2 sensors, and runs under an alternate fuel injection mapping strategy while everything is warming up. Simply put, your O2 sensors can't cause a hard start because they're ignored whenever you are in open loop.
Well mine said it was cylinder 6 1st so i replaced the spark plugs and coil then it said the furl injectors i replaced them,then it said the converters i have 3 just as aoon as i replaced the converters it now rattles shakes like its full of water.gets hot within about 3/4 of a miles decreases in spees till it stops and clunks out.so im thinking oxygen sensors im sure i have plenty with 3 convertors.the mechanic says he thinks my engine lost compression.but it cranks and runs for a few minutes.
It sounds like you have been through a lot with your car, and it's frustrating when replacing parts doesn't solve the problem. Based on your description, it's possible that the oxygen sensors could be the issue, as they can affect the performance of the catalytic converters. However, it's also concerning that your engine is losing compression and that the car is rattling and shaking. It's important to have a qualified mechanic take a look at your car to properly diagnose the issue and prevent any further damage to your vehicle. They can perform a compression test to determine if your engine has lost compression, and check the oxygen sensors and other components to identify any other potential issues.
Given the combination of codes and the fact that your vehicle starts but turns off after a few seconds, it's possible that you're dealing with multiple issues. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem: 1. Inspect the wiring and connectors related to the oxygen sensors, throttle body, and idle air control valve. Look for any signs of damage or loose connections. 2. Clean the throttle body. A dirty throttle body can cause idle and stalling issues. Remove the intake hose and clean the throttle body using a throttle body cleaner. 3. Inspect the spark plugs for any signs of wear or fouling. Consider replacing them if needed. Additionally, check the ignition coil for cylinder 1 and ensure it's functioning properly. 4. Test the oxygen sensors. If the wiring appears to be in good condition, it's possible that one or more of the oxygen sensors are faulty. Consider having them tested or replaced.
@@carproblemsmax You have absolutely no idea as to what you're talking about. A lube tech knows more than you do. "I need help my 07 mazda5 grand touring starts but turns off after a few seconds" That sounds like a classic open/closed loop conflict, does it not? I bet you don't even know what that is. Also, how can you have intermittent bad plugs. Maybe you should learn how to fix cars and stop using a computer generated voice to make your videos.
Hello, Maybe you can help me with a question. The apologies of the case for my English, it is not my native language. I have a motorcycle and since it is already hot and idling the scanner shows a voltage in the oxygen sensor (it is a single wire) of between .8 and .9 which drops to between .1 and .5 when the motorcycle accelerated it also marks the change from open loop in idling to closed loop in acceleration. Is this normal?
It depends. In a car OBD2 laws requires all manufacturers to comply with a specific set of regulations. Wide open throttle on an obd2 vehicle forces an open loop condition. I don't know what the standards are for motorcycles, but if its going into open loop all the time, and not just under WOT, you probably have an issue.
Hi my Acura tl 2010 exhaust smell very bad and the car started showing check emission system with a check engine light,l cleaned my maf sensor and erased the codes but next day it came up again can anyone tell me something about it 😢😢
I’m getting Error Code P2198 & I think it’s the Oxygen sensor on bank 2 sensor 1 because I have a rough idle, it turns off at random & even when i start it sometimes it just dies out, then it smells al lot like fuel & you also feel some vibrations on the car so that’s why I think it’s the Oxygen Sensor but what do y’all think?
Based on the symptoms you have described, it is possible that the oxygen sensor on bank 2 sensor 1 is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the sensor is faulty, it can cause a rough idle, stalling, and a rich fuel smell.
@@xokam No bro, I dug a bit more into my car & it turns out one of my Sensors by the engine bay that goes connected to my fuel rail wasn’t connected, then my fuel rail was torn & had a leak & on top of that all 8 of my Fuel Injectors were burnt out, so I had to replace my Fuel Rail & Fuel Injectors
I have 2010 chevy camaro I replaced the 02 sensors and lasted for a couple months but then i got the code for the 02 sensors when engine light came back on now have to replace again its cheap fix. But mechanic also told me It can be a vacume leak as well.
The P0420 code in a Toyota Prius C indicates an issue with the catalytic converter: Check for any exhaust leaks. Exhaust leaks before the catalytic converter can cause false readings, triggering the P0420 code. Inspect the exhaust system for leaks, and repair or replace any damaged components. Replace the oxygen sensor. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause the P0420 code. Replace the sensor with a new one. Check the wiring for the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. Damaged wires can cause issues with the catalytic converter system, resulting in the P0420 code. If none of the above steps solve the problem, the catalytic converter may be damaged and needs to be replaced. Note that the P0420 code can also be triggered by other factors, such as engine misfires or fuel system issues. If the above steps do not solve the problem, it's recommended to take the vehicle to a certified mechanic for a more thorough diagnosis.
Is it true that o2 sensors have an expiration time frame? My mechanic thinks it needs a replacing since I keep getting P0420/P0430 every 6 months after using catalyst cleaner. What are your thoughts? @@carproblemsmax
Lol. Doesn't have this issue but has many more different ones that require you to go to a dealership that's going to cost a ton of money. Dealerships love evs because your forces to go to them for many of the issues and they can f you over without using lube.
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It does!! Basically when you have issues(jerking) at low speeds, incline, loss of powers, stall = o2 sensor most possible. Don’t be manipulated by stupid mechanics that tell you no code in diagnostic test
I replaced my oxygen sensors this week. My car has 230,000 miles and the previous owner never replaced them. Turns out, they were both broken and for God knows how long. My car began running rough and backfiring, and once at a stop, would not move an inch, but idled perfectly fine. My guess, carbon built up everywhere it could and now I'm replacing just about everything I can think of.
I got underneath my car and tried like hell to break them loose with no success. Breaker bars, O2 sensor kit from autozone, no dice. So I went to my neighborhood mechanic just to have the bolts loosened and it set me back $35. Took her back home and replaced the oxygen sensors ($20 each).
Don't forget! There are two different types of o2 sensors, the Upstream O2 sensor (before catalytic converter) and downstream O2 sensor (behind the catalytic converter). You can't use the same oxygen sensor for both positions. Also, don't forget to reset your car's computer after changing dirty or broken sensors, especially if your CEL came on.
If you're catalytic converter is toast and you have a cheap car in an area with no emissions tests, you can buy an O2 sensor adapter that will "trick" your computer into thinking the catalytic converter is there and fine. They sell these adapters on walmart. com for 10 bucks, and with great reviews.
Anyway, I've done a ton of work to my car in the past couple weeks, trying to get to the root of my intermittent mechanical issue, and keeping my fingers crossed that I fixed her. Tomorrow I'm resetting her computer and taking her out for the big drive. Wish me luck! :)
How did your drive turn out?
I guess your on a long road trip😂😂
Good Luck 😂
@@bethanderson5050he’s dead
what's the name of that o2 sensor bypass part?
I have the same issue on my ford explorer. I have changed the catalytic convertor and the two oxogen sensor and fixed the issue. The next day again come the check engine light. Then i realize and watch the youtube videos. Many of them are suggesting to put fuel injector and yesterday i put fuel injector including the full tank petrol. Fortunately it is success today and the check engine light has been disappear.
I have exactly problem like you said, problem on performance and idling.. need to service my o2 sensor
That’s absolutely correct!! The stupid mechanics 🧰 can say, it is not giving me a code, it’s fine 😂!!
Thanks. Getting ready to place downstream. Hard starts.
When you first start your car, your pcm runs in open loop. When in open loop the pcm ignores the information it receives from the O2 sensors. That can't cause a hard start because the O2 sensor won't come on line until they get how enough to work.
Hands Down this was the Best Overview of o2Sensors EVER!!!
could you have bad O2sensor without engine light ?
Yes
only most of the time
Absolutely yes
My car right now. But it's coming up on the computer
Yes barely learning this now.
I changed my ignition coils, spark plugs, 2 new catalytic converters, new throttle body, new alternator, and lastly I put some fuel injector cleaner in. The misfire is fixed, the idle and the car shutting off is fixed. But the thing is, my car feels heavy when I accelerate to go faster and it has poor gas mileage. Today my check engine light popped up so idk if I needa change this 02 sensor or what. (I’m so close to giving up)
Hey man I’m having the same issues except my car is shutting off and seriously bucking while I’m coming to a stop under 20 mph
@@ounloyal5885 if it’s shutting off then it might be the throttle body, I put a new one in but you can also just use a old toothbrush and buy some throttle body cleaner to clean all that build up.
@@ounloyal5885what’s bucking
Dear @marcos im facing same issue, but no light in dashboard,
Pls tell me solution if your car is good now
Start looking into fuel system if the the O2 sensors don’t fix it
I have a code reading P0060, is this the same issue. When I googled it, it says bad 02 sensor. You didn't mention that when you ran down the code numbers, I didn't hear P0060....
I get P0172 today and when i scan the car it say bank 1 system too rich. What could be the cause of that?
I have a polo 2014 model
It keep’s misfiring
I changed the timing chain and made a service but it’s still misfiring
My car is making a rattling sound where the o2 sensor is located. Only happens on cold start for 3 minutes then the rattling fades until unnoticable. Could the rattling on cold start for 2-4minutes only be a sign of bad o2 sensor or is it normal?
Need better tech oil ~ Lucas technology
Sounds like it might just be the heat sheild on the exhaust. Might be able to bend it so it's not touching the exaust pipe. If you find it it's just heat sheild then yes its nothing to worry about....
@@ginoromano2442 sorry for not being too technical. Not sure how i'm going to describe the noise. It seems more like a hissing sound than rattling
great , informative video , I wonder if you come across this strange problem engine 651 2.1 L (P02A7=cylinder4 fuel trim at min ) from the code you would think injector problem but sadly that was not the case , I swapped inj4 with inj1 and still the same problem P02A7 , went toward vacuum and checked all vacuum parts (intake manifold /vacuum resonator/turbo actuator/transducers/vacuum hoses) with no sign of vacuum leaks at all , in fact the system holding 15inch vacuum with no problem at a all , in regards to injectors tested with injector leak test all four injectors are leaking the same amount of fuel so I can't fault them , engine idling is fine / drive fine the only thing is if you cleared that code , you will get the full power of the engine I mean the turbo will be working as it should be until you drive in steady speed like 65miles/hour for 10 to 15 minutes as soon as you take your foot off gas pedal the check light will be trigrad and you will start loosing power specially up hill , the only suspect left for me is o2 sensor , I haven't replaced it yet , but when I disconnected no check engine light show up as if its connected , but am thinking that could be the o2 sensor is faulty thats why when the engine on that steady speed and by the time I let off the gas pedal , the ECU request the oxygen from the o2 sensor and most likely the wrong values from the o2 sensor is the suspect what do you think ? your help is appreciated
flashing cel at all?
did you ever find out what was wrong? let me know!
My annoying mechanic is asking me what this is. Just do the job. Ask questions later
Can it cause noise more prominently when transmission changes gear?
No it has nothing to do with that
Just one of many on you tube fully explaining replacement of oxygen sensors. 😮
I have a Chrysler 300 with hella problems including a transmission gear thing and that was the driveshaft. I have 4 codes left and 3 of them indicate the O2 sensors. And 1 is p0300 which is just a multiple misfire code. I changed almost everything except the spark plugs cause i thought they were changed. The car sounds better now but i hope the o2 sensors is the main cause of rough idling
Well, i had a full tank on my nissan. Ran 29km due to some errands. I noticed the fuel drop to 3/4 of the gauge. I tried to refuel again to check how much it consumed, or if my gas tank floater sensor is faulty. My god, it really did lose some fuel, significant amount. I lost about 9.3L of fuel on 29km. My car normally runs 7-8 km per liter!
Could anyone know what else is causing this to drink so much gas?
1. Spark plugs are replaced and original parts
2. Replaced air filter
3. Newly changed oil (Amsoil OE 100% synthetic 5w-30)
4. Even the ATF is on the manual spec, Nissan Matic D.
Check and possibly clean your MAF Sensor
Had this exact same issue, when i disconnected the O2 sensor it went back to consuming just a bit more than normal
Could this cause my van to sometimes mot start? I plugged in my OBDII sensor and it gives this code “p0036 ho2s heater control circuit (bank 1 sensor 2) location “ and I have the check engine light on.
99% of the time it starts fine, and 1% of the time it either lags to turn on (I turn the key and it needs a few seconds to for the engine to start), or in the worst cases it won’t start. If I then wait 2-3 minutes, it starts up just fine
Hi.I have w140 S320 96y and O² sensor wont work correctly, its on ON few sec and then its shut down/OFF
Do i need to replace O² sensor?
There is many different sensors in the market, witch one i need do buy?
Very informative and well narrated video. thank you!
Thanks for the video, I'm having a problem with my O2 sensor, my catalytic converter was taken from my Toyota prius 2008 with sensor 2 together but after fixing it with Toyota original parts, the light has been popping up with code P0137, the O2 sensor low voltage bank 1 sensor 2, I went to Toyota they said sensor 2 is new and is good but it is sensor 1 that is bad and my gas consumption has gone up 25% but now I have changed the sensor 1, still the light is kept on coming back, I didn't have this problem until my catalytic was stolen. What is the solution?
Check your MAP sensor
@@Irish-Bear please can you explain more?
If the P0137 code continues to come up even after replacing the Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor, then there may be a problem with the wiring or circuitry that connects the sensor to the engine control module. This could be due to a damaged or corroded connector or wiring harness.
It is also possible that the catalytic converter replacement was not done properly and is not functioning as it should. A poorly functioning catalytic converter can cause the O2 sensors to report incorrect readings, leading to issues such as decreased fuel efficiency and engine performance.
I’m having P420 after having an aftermarket car and sensor put on 2 years ago with a shield. I haven’t had it worked on yet.
Hi would a bad o2 sensor triger other codes
yes
Could this cause a cylinder 6 misfire I’ve checked spark plugs coil packs injectors and everything is fine I even replaced my camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor it doesn’t idle as badly as it did but the check engine light flashes could the o2 sensor cause this.
Please respond as to what cured your problem. 😊
Great videos!!!!! Straight and to the point!
I just change my exhaust manifold and the oxygen sensor and I got the p1148 and p1031 code could the oxygen sensor gone mad this fast again?
I have a skoda yeti that goes at limp mode when its cold for years now. i have done a total revamp on the engine, repaired the software, changed cold valve and heat sensor and it still happens. any idea why?
For faulty O2 sensor could be any problem behind O2 sensor and these are: leaking fuel injectors (carbon build up), faulty Lmm sensor, faulty intake vacum air leaking, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad fuel pump. All this affects the incorrect air-fuel ratio, therefore the error on the O2 Lambda sensor.
After change of spark plugs SV6 commodore vf. Now slight rough idle notice but drives and accelration is smooth like butter.
whats cause????
idle sits on 550 and stable even on idle but i can feel slightly rough.
no check engine lights
no vaccum leaks
Interesting, because I have same SV6 with slight rough idle, not enough to set off any codes, but it is noticable. My scanner does not show any codes, (Topdon and Vident). But O2 sensor 1 bank 1 is lower on voltage and bank 1 short term fuel Trim is leaner than bank 2. I am finding it hard to diagnose the issue.
@@qre268Zrtb u need to replace the o2 sensor must then all will be set
@@1xbettrick Don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about. Can you explain how fuel trims work? Do you know how to bypass your O2 sensors for diagnostic purposes? All you are doing is telling someone to replace a part before you even diagnose it as a problem.
Well my car has been stalling and I took it to the mechanic and he replaced the throttle body for the code on the scanner I guess it was broken and that didn’t even fix the issue of my car my has still been stalling after I make a complete stop at a light or idle to a stop sign when I’m driving or when I’m turning a corner my car just dies out my dash still has power but my steering wheel locks up if i turned my engine off i need help any ideas…no scans pop up could it be a fuel injector issue or 02 issue I’m not sure any ideas?
Pray
Same
Did you ever find out what it was? My pt cruiser is like those symptoms only on cold starts when i don't push the pedal down at start.
@@Purodegeneracion My car does same, a Daewoo matiz (2008). Changed IAC valve and still have that issue
Alt
What about white smoke while its idling. It only smokes when its idling and im stopped at red lights.
Thank you , great video
Everything he's saying my vehicle is currently going through at 87k. I was advised it may be a head gasket failure but we'll see when I swap em out for FREE.
What kind of car and did you find the problem?
Can these sensors go out at 30k miles? Or more likely that something that caused it to? My cars eml is p0138 but runs fine. And strangely getting better mpg
My car fuel consumption is very high about 40% increase.
I was thinking it's oxygen sensor but I don't have check engine light On, I scan codes and no fault. What exactly could be the reason
Have you checked for some kind of leak?
Maybe you can get a large card board, split it from the center to get two then cardboard and place under car and monitor it like that. Maybe it’s dripping out.
If not, try monitoring the rpm. Do you notice if it has higher than usual rpm, either when idling or when you’re driving.
A next thing it could be, if no code is showing up, is maybe the car has and Over Drive available, you have it activated.
Essentially, it keeps the car running in the smaller gears, so if you’re on a highway or long free roads, it’s using gas pointlessly.
You’d mainly use it if you need some power and not speed. You’d maybe use it to climb up a somewhat steep incline. Or maybe you’re trying to help pull a car out from a ditch.
You can do a little research on if your car has OD and how to enable and disable it.
I remember I drove my cousin’s Tacoma, Dont recall year, but it’s not a recent model, and the OD button was on the shifter. I accidentally pressed it and was wondering why it was driving funny.
Right now I am on here tryna fix my O2 sensor connector. Idk if it’s been disconnected a while, but I have the pesky code and OEM parts are a little to expensive for my liking. Lmao.
The contact point of one of the 4 contact points inside the sensor connector is broken. And I’m having issues with Mpg efficiency too.
I figured maybe the bank 2 sensor 2 is the one that helps monitor and controls the air/fuel mixture. If it doesn’t get feedback, it just keeps throwing in more fuel than it needs.
God having a car is a pain.
What’s worse, it’s difficult to fucking unscrew this shit.
These cause multiple misfire white smoke from exhaust it do mess like rotten egg…
Would it cause my care to vibrate or feel like my car is off balance?
Rough idling at morning.. what's reason?
Is this for upstream or downstream o2? Or it doesn't matter?
Upstream sensors are called Air fuel ratio or lambda sensor not o2 sensor. O2 are located downstream of catalytic converter 👍
What if all my lights turn on such as break and cruise control ect but i get p0172? Could it be the maf?
If you are looking to just throw money away, following advice in videos like this is an excellent way to do it. I guess no one realized that the voice in the video is computer generated. How did you come up with a an airflow sensor with for a bank one lean condition? That might be the problem, but an 0172 is a generic code, which means there are many things that could turn it on.
When you see a bunch of lights come on for systems that are primarily safety features, its considered normal. For example, if you have an issue with your ABS system, your vehicle will automatically shut down other systems like, traction control, parking assist, adaptive cruise control, lane drift condition, etc. All of those systems won't work without ABS, so they all get shut down as a precaution.
Hi there, hope you are doing well sir
I would have a question about my car if you could help me out.
I was just wondering. MOT has been done to my care which is a Ford fiesta, before the MOT the noise level was high in the car, its consumption was also high and it's felt like it doesn't have much power in it. after running a test on its computer to find any problems with the car, everything was fine. oil has been changed, oil filter and also Air filter was changed, last year spark plugs were changed, catalytic converter, oxygen sensor and they reset the on board computer. The engine ran very nicely without effort, very quietly, very quickly and its fuel consumption was perfect no noise whatsoever. The yellow engine error light came on when we were traveling, the noise level increased, the consumption also increased, the performance decreased. now I don't know what to do... any suggestions please
Will a bad O2 sensor show on an emissions test if you dont have an engine light or code?
Yes, a bad O2 sensor can cause a failed emissions test even if the check engine light is not on and there are no error codes stored in the engine control module.
If the O2 sensor is faulty, it may not be able to accurately measure the oxygen levels in the exhaust gases, which can result in increased emissions. This could cause the vehicle to fail an emissions test, even if there are no other apparent issues.
Yeah because the scanners they have shows the data different systems are showing
A bad 02 sensor give you a code of p0302 misfire on cylinder 2
@@carproblemsmax
Will a bad sensor cause the truck to shake stutter and won't accelerate from slow or stop to go? It runs fine when I floor it but in the city stop and go makes it want to stall out but doesn't but it won't accelerate until I floor it. Could a bad o2 sensor do this?
@@covidfake1573thats transmission issue bro
I got a question can a bad o2 sensor make my car vibrate when I drive off from a complete stop? Can someone plz help me
Yes, a bad O2 (oxygen) sensor can potentially cause your car to vibrate when you drive off from a complete stop. If the O2 sensor is malfunctioning or sending incorrect readings to the ECU, it can disrupt the engine's fuel management system. This can lead to an imbalance in the air-fuel mixture, resulting in poor engine performance, rough idling, and potentially vibrations during acceleration.
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Got a 2002 Buick LeSabre limited off fb marketplace previous owner didn't replace intake manifold gasket right o2 sensor was going out ignition control module was going out 20 year old spark plugs og fuel pump and fuel filter 3 months later got everything done except o2 sensor 😂
How do I diagnose this issue I have a n55 I’ve changed spark plugs coil packs fuel injectors and vvt solenoid and still sluggish I think your video diagnose the o2 sensor but I don’t have cats
It's worth noting that even if you don't have catalytic converters installed in your vehicle, you still have oxygen sensors that monitor the engine's air-fuel ratio. The sensors are located before and after the catalytic converters in most vehicles, but in your case, they would be located upstream and downstream of the secondary air injection system.
Firstly, you can use a scan tool to read any diagnostic trouble codes. If the O2 sensor is malfunctioning, you may see a code related to the sensor or the engine's air-fuel ratio.
If there are no codes present, you can use a multimeter to test the oxygen sensor's electrical resistance and voltage output. The resistance should be within a certain range, depending on the sensor's specifications, and the voltage should fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.9 volts when the engine is running.
Seek Jesus! He’s the way! The truth! And the life! Repent for the Kingdom is at hand!
shut up
Lol
Amen Brother. The LORD is forever watching, with an ocean of love for each of us. 🙏
What has Jesus got to do with replacing a bad oxygen sensor? Maybe giving you the
strength and knowledge and money to replace it ? 😮 😮
I have santro xing car.when i drove about 3km and when i turn it off the engine . as soon as i try to start at the same minute i could not start the car it doesnt take the start so pls help me
O2 sensor down stream code came on in my 2010 300..changed it out an still there an runnin rough an jerkin like its gona die while ideling drivin a certain speed or sometimes shifts hard around 35 40pmh or wont shift in the next gear..gona change out the up stream next..anyone have the same problem an figuiit out yet? Put a new starter in it but sometimes cranks for 5 ish sec longer than it should before starting.
You have to diagnose the problem, not just replace parts until you guess correctly. Your O2 sensors can't cause a hard start condition because they don't work when they're cold. Your PCM ignores them and they only come online when they reach a specific operating temperature. About 600 degrees. You have to look somewhere else.
i just upgraded my fuel pump and threw in gtr 550cc fuel injectors into my infiniti g35 n it was running decent with rough idle but now i cant get it to start but when it does i gotta hit the gas to keep it running n if i stop it stalls i got the code p0131 and p0151 saying low voltage on bank 1 and 2 for upstream, im wondering if anyone knows if the 02 sensors themselves are bad or that im just throwing in to much fuel i planned to get it dyno tuned, also i never got the codes before or at least i dont remember having them before
Thats certainly interesting. Most likely will be the O2 sensor, due to the age of the vehicle or perhaps the Oxygen intake is struggling to meet the demand of Fuel injected with the new modifications. My vehicle (Manual VW Jetta 04) would stall at idle or if the revolutions in the engine became too low at neutral, it would stall. I replaced my air vacuum tubes (cracked and broken) and got the true cold air intake installed correctly because the previous owner didn’t attach it properly. My engine stopped stalling afterwards and I hadn’t had the problem since, however the code appears every once in a while despite it running decently. My vehicle went from 18 mpg to 27 after that fix, however I believe that my O2 sensor is bad or I need to replace a faulty fuel injector.
There are four common problems with oxygen-fuel ratios that cause the voltage in the o2 sensors to drop. Either Fuel injectors, a leak in the exhaust, bad o2 sensors, or improper air intake
If you are going to modify your vehicle, you should know what you're doing. Mods bring your sensor data out of spec, and unless you know how to compensate for the changes, you'll have problems. O2 sensors can't cause a hard start for one simple reason. O2 sensors only work when they're hot. (aprox. 600 degrees). Before they reach operating temp, they give bad readings. Because of this, you would get a check engine light every time you start the car with a cold motor. To deal with this, your pcm has 2 modes of operation. Open and closed loop. When you first start the car, the pcm defaults to open loop, and stays in open loop until your O2 sensors reach a minimum temperature. The important thing to remember, is when your vehicle is running in open loop, it disregards the reading it gets from the O2 sensors, and runs under an alternate fuel injection mapping strategy while everything is warming up. Simply put, your O2 sensors can't cause a hard start because they're ignored whenever you are in open loop.
Well mine said it was cylinder 6 1st so i replaced the spark plugs and coil then it said the furl injectors i replaced them,then it said the converters i have 3 just as aoon as i replaced the converters it now rattles shakes like its full of water.gets hot within about 3/4 of a miles decreases in spees till it stops and clunks out.so im thinking oxygen sensors im sure i have plenty with 3 convertors.the mechanic says he thinks my engine lost compression.but it cranks and runs for a few minutes.
It sounds like you have been through a lot with your car, and it's frustrating when replacing parts doesn't solve the problem. Based on your description, it's possible that the oxygen sensors could be the issue, as they can affect the performance of the catalytic converters.
However, it's also concerning that your engine is losing compression and that the car is rattling and shaking. It's important to have a qualified mechanic take a look at your car to properly diagnose the issue and prevent any further damage to your vehicle. They can perform a compression test to determine if your engine has lost compression, and check the oxygen sensors and other components to identify any other potential issues.
@@carproblemsmax can a engine run with lost compression?
on obd2 O2 1 makes waves and lambda O2 looks like a ladder. It's ok?
I need help my 07 mazda5 grand touring starts but turns off after a few seconds Codes popping up
P0131, P0301,P0137,P050A,P2119
Given the combination of codes and the fact that your vehicle starts but turns off after a few seconds, it's possible that you're dealing with multiple issues. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:
1. Inspect the wiring and connectors related to the oxygen sensors, throttle body, and idle air control valve. Look for any signs of damage or loose connections.
2. Clean the throttle body. A dirty throttle body can cause idle and stalling issues. Remove the intake hose and clean the throttle body using a throttle body cleaner.
3. Inspect the spark plugs for any signs of wear or fouling. Consider replacing them if needed. Additionally, check the ignition coil for cylinder 1 and ensure it's functioning properly.
4. Test the oxygen sensors. If the wiring appears to be in good condition, it's possible that one or more of the oxygen sensors are faulty. Consider having them tested or replaced.
@@carproblemsmax You have absolutely no idea as to what you're talking about. A lube tech knows more than you do.
"I need help my 07 mazda5 grand touring starts but turns off after a few seconds"
That sounds like a classic open/closed loop conflict, does it not? I bet you don't even know what that is. Also, how can you have intermittent bad plugs.
Maybe you should learn how to fix cars and stop using a computer generated voice to make your videos.
Hello, Maybe you can help me with a question. The apologies of the case for my English, it is not my native language. I have a motorcycle and since it is already hot and idling the scanner shows a voltage in the oxygen sensor (it is a single wire) of between .8 and .9 which drops to between .1 and .5 when the motorcycle accelerated it also marks the change from open loop in idling to closed loop in acceleration. Is this normal?
Is your issue resolved bro ?
It depends. In a car OBD2 laws requires all manufacturers to comply with a specific set of regulations. Wide open throttle on an obd2 vehicle forces an open loop condition. I don't know what the standards are for motorcycles, but if its going into open loop all the time, and not just under WOT, you probably have an issue.
My car hesitates go accelerate is that the main cause I got all my cats cutt off please help.
Map it
Exhaust sensor can cause engine to stop, while driving? Anyone know this?? Mine is peugeot.
not quite stalling, but it is noticeable as a strong jerking of the car while driving, without real power.
@@joesaric1 Thanks for the advice. Will keep you posted :D
This guy sounds like neil degras tyson and the guy from those allstate commercials
Hi my Acura tl 2010 exhaust smell very bad and the car started showing check emission system with a check engine light,l cleaned my maf sensor and erased the codes but next day it came up again can anyone tell me something about it 😢😢
Did you figure out what it was? I changed my MAF and nothing happened, and I’m not even 100% sure it’s the o2 sensor
Wow just found out what's been happe😢to my car had! To? Watch once mechanic told me what needs! To be replaced
Anyone smelling gas in there car cuz it’s bad?
Yes a bad o2 sensor will cause gas smell in car, and when you’re reving it… you’ll smell gas
@@RamzaBeo appreciate it bro💯
@@RamzaBeo or a bad charcoal canister
Is that what it call a sensor
I’m getting Error Code P2198 & I think it’s the Oxygen sensor on bank 2 sensor 1 because I have a rough idle, it turns off at random & even when i start it sometimes it just dies out, then it smells al lot like fuel & you also feel some vibrations on the car so that’s why I think it’s the Oxygen Sensor but what do y’all think?
Based on the symptoms you have described, it is possible that the oxygen sensor on bank 2 sensor 1 is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the sensor is faulty, it can cause a rough idle, stalling, and a rich fuel smell.
im dealing with the same thing, did new o2 sensors fix the problem for you?
@@xokam No bro, I dug a bit more into my car & it turns out one of my Sensors by the engine bay that goes connected to my fuel rail wasn’t connected, then my fuel rail was torn & had a leak & on top of that all 8 of my Fuel Injectors were burnt out, so I had to replace my Fuel Rail & Fuel Injectors
@@Oatis_07 ah okay appreciate the heads up, replacing o2 sensors today so i’ll check the fuel rail if that doesn’t fix the problem
@@xokam best of luck bro! Hopefully it isn’t all the things that happened to my car
( I drive 73 Ford station wagon, I have no problem with it,ha ha ha!)
And you're smog exempt.
Rough idle plus loss of power. Definitely an oxygen sensor fault. Cleaned it and I will give you an update if it works
I have 2010 chevy camaro I replaced the 02 sensors and lasted for a couple months but then i got the code for the 02 sensors when engine light came back on now have to replace again its cheap fix. But mechanic also told me It can be a vacume leak as well.
Sounds like why my bike shut dwn 02 censors.
In where in canada
i replaced the oxigen sensor 1 and still got the problem
change both
I don’t want the car to stall soon as I put into reverse
P1163???
Can I ask you a question
Guess not
In maruti omni van where they tite the sensor
will always be on the exhaust pipe, normally 2 sensors will be there , one before and after the catalytic converter
Great video
Good for the soul
Boss how can i solve P0420 in Toyota Prius C
The P0420 code in a Toyota Prius C indicates an issue with the catalytic converter:
Check for any exhaust leaks. Exhaust leaks before the catalytic converter can cause false readings, triggering the P0420 code. Inspect the exhaust system for leaks, and repair or replace any damaged components.
Replace the oxygen sensor. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause the P0420 code. Replace the sensor with a new one.
Check the wiring for the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. Damaged wires can cause issues with the catalytic converter system, resulting in the P0420 code.
If none of the above steps solve the problem, the catalytic converter may be damaged and needs to be replaced.
Note that the P0420 code can also be triggered by other factors, such as engine misfires or fuel system issues. If the above steps do not solve the problem, it's recommended to take the vehicle to a certified mechanic for a more thorough diagnosis.
Is it true that o2 sensors have an expiration time frame? My mechanic thinks it needs a replacing since I keep getting P0420/P0430 every 6 months after using catalyst cleaner. What are your thoughts?
@@carproblemsmax
What about Po420
this is why EV has one less problem to worry about
Okay
Lol. Doesn't have this issue but has many more different ones that require you to go to a dealership that's going to cost a ton of money. Dealerships love evs because your forces to go to them for many of the issues and they can f you over without using lube.
Haaaaaa haaaaaa that's because your using cheap fuel.cuzz it builds up NOx emissions in side your engine plus in your intake manifold true facts.
This was very helpful thank youu for sharing your experience
Cut the cat out straight pipe
Problem solved when you replace MAF sensor
Nope! Tried it
ltarieq ale aljana
din al'islam
(the secret of happiness)
(ashhad 'an la 'iilah 'iilaa allah wa'an muhamad rasul allahi)
( أشهد أن لا إله إلا الله وأن محمد رسول الله)
mn fadlk lookin 'iib din al islam
lol mine have 160k miles on them
Quran 112
I hate BMWs
Fake video.
I don't think oxygen sensor do to car stall lol
Yes it does
@@tjayayewhy1595 my never have happen even I got alot code on for oxygen's sensor maybe some car different
It does!! Basically when you have issues(jerking) at low speeds, incline, loss of powers, stall = o2 sensor most possible.
Don’t be manipulated by stupid mechanics that tell you no code in diagnostic test
@@ioannisstavrou2677 I don't trust no mechanic even my own family member so doing my only way aslong no check engine to pass smog then in good 😂
@@ioannisstavrou2677 ... I'm going through this at the moment and mechanic has freagin clue, is pretending. I'm beyond PIST.