Hi Rick! Yes...another video on this one please! Water and pH is so incredibly important to successful growing. Thanks so much for another great video!
@@HerebutNotthat’s maybe because ‘you’re here but not’. I have 100 orchids and had the same pH as you claim to have and it was killing my roots!!! Yes there we’re constantly new leaves coming. Because ambient conditions were just so perfect but roots is what one is looking for .. and blooms.
Rick, your videos are incredibly helpful! You explain pH in a way that makes it digestible for us newbie orchid growers! Those were great analogies. I have a background in raising fish in aquariums, but I didn't even realize the importance of pH for plants and orchids. You've opened my eyes! Thank you for your great informative videos 🙂🌺 Grow on!
Thank you for helping me save my plants from imminent death 😢 Yes. They were sprouting new leaves. I thought that was a sign then we’re healthy, but there was new root growth or flowering. Now I know why !!
I just started growing orchids again after 20 years....I stumbled upon this video and it was so helpful....I am going to browse your other videos hoping to find one that goes more in depth into this!!!!Thank you!!!!
HOORAY, finally someone understands, plants are the same as people different ailments can be caused by too much acid or alkaline in the system. Aborigines knew some plants are toxic in some areas, while the same plants in another area were ok, because of the ph in the soil. The older the plant the higher/lower PH in the fruits, roots or leaves. PH changes depending on the season. I could go on about this forever, you have hit the nail on the head, your uncomplicated way of explaining to your band of followers is so refreshing and simple. Thank you.
.......your comments are what I love to hear......none of this is heavy chemistry.....just simple hydro growing......and watching the plants..thank you my friend......
Just wanted to say, thank you so much for the video! This is the first time I've been able to comprehend exactly why PH is important. You've inspired me to change how I do things in my watering schedule. None of my orchids were reviving much of anything because my LECA medium raised the PH. If it wasn't for you, I never would have even thought it mattered. Now I'm learning how to control that and use the natural rise in PH from my medium to my advantage. Thank you so much for sharing in a simple way to help those of us who are not well versed in how hydroponics works
Hi Rick I just watched this video for the second time. I was a little confused when you stated that the Ph should swing. Now I know exactly what you are saying. It took me awhile, but now I get it. I already have citric acid as I use it as a natural rinse for my hair, but I can see exactly what you are saying. I want to put this chart in my grow room, so when I mix I can chart the feedings, so I'll have a record of the ph from each feeding. Thanks again so much. This is so great! Blessings, Rita
thank you Rita....its a hard concept to follow, for even experienced growers......read labels, check you mix......most are chelated and you dont need to swing it as much.......
I just subscribed your channel ,it is very informative I like your work on fertilisers pls more,just got a ph and tds meter 3 weeks ago And was testings ph and tds leves with differt amonds of feed,and by luck opted for feed of 1/3strength With ph of 5,8 and tds 230. Thank you very much
I did a quick check today. My tap was 6.82ph and 51ppm. Then I added my cal/mg and my ph was 6.61 184ppm. So even with the cal/mg i am missing the sweet spot. I need to check again with my fertilizer and cal/mg supplemented in and see what it reads. So it's my cal and micro nutrients that are missing. I knew I was calcium deficient. If the fert doesn't read properly I might have to take a field trip to my local hydro store ♥♥♥ This is one of the best videos ever ♥
remember calmag is usually chelated, check the label.......that means it can be absorbed at other PH ranges......6.0-6.5 is fine.....your close enough........using PH is good for isolating nutrients or to direct feed..........with most orchid mixes a little swing is enough.......
Yes, more! Your orchids looks fabulous...and those leaves! BTW, I noticed the clay orchid pots you have...Home Depot had the holey ones last summer because I bought about 4 of them. The info on their website, however, only shows the regular orchid pots like you have.
Eileen, thank you ......love the feedback.....I like the orchid pots they sell, ...I always add/drill a drain hole thru center.....not a fan of the glazed saucer set up.....put love the air flow.....
I’m a recent subscriber and already I am learning so much from you, thank you! This topic is super interesting to me so more please 👍🏻 I would like to know more about ph swings and growing in bark and on mounts too.
Thanks Rick, extremely informative. Right now I'm feelin a little silly. As a nutritionist I am always talking to humans about varying their diet and eating a little of everything. Why I never thought about it for my orchids is beyond me. Perfectly timed as well. We've just had a day of rain here in Michigan and it's time to fertilize.
this is the video I needed!! I know my tap water is 6.1 from my first test run with my PH pen when I first got it. I need to calibrate it and actually sit down and do it properly take notes. But this helps explain why and what I need to be at. I don't remeber what my TDS reading was ♥
Hi Rick. Did you make part 2 of this video? I really like to understand more about pH as relates to orchid growth and be in control. Thank you so much for all that you do.
I may have.....but it may have been lost during a U tube glitche......the main thing to remember about Ph and orchids is that minerals all have specific ranges that they absorb best in.......but..Chelated minerals like we have in most of our orchid nutrients(check your label).......are designed to be absorbed outside of their normal ph ranges.......so as long as your starting water is 7.8 or lower......you should be fine.....Nutrient mixes are designed to lower the ph as they dissolve....best thing is to get a meter and check your starting water ph & your nutrient mix.......then you know where your at and how the nutrients will lower it..........PH is only important to begin with.......see what your water is and occasionally check it.......keeps your orchids happy and feeding better......
I really like used aqaurium water once a week to feed my oncidium and cattleyas. Once weekly i use epsom salt during the growing season. Always have crushed, not powder, clean eggshells at the base of the plant so roots can grasp a small chunk.Rainwater, depending on direction of air where i am, gulf of mexico south and tennessee tombigbee warerway close by gives me varied ph during rainstorms. Good advice you give. Did not know about nutrient absorbtion ph before you mentioned it.
HI Rick, This is a great video and I have visited it often. I have a question for you...I am using cal mag with Fe. I believe the Fe is chelate(d). This would affect the Fe absorbability, how about the Cal and Mag?? (I do not believe the cal and mag are chelated to the Iron.) Would these then become absorbable by the plant at the same PH range as the Fe? If no, I need to PH down more to grab that Cal. I tried asking the guy at the shop- what is now in OZ the "headshop" the Aquaponic/hydroponic shop-anyway....guy just looked at me and blinked when I asked. They stopped carrying my usual brand so...i am trying a new one. I am hoping this one doesn't create theses occasional little jelly balls -like small tapioca- when I mix it with fertilizer. The old one did....i'd prefer to give all the "nutrients" except for when I flush, have not been able to because of these little jelly balls. Totally unsure what sort of chemical reaction God I offended to cause that, but...yeah...nah.. I started my "routine" after that. It also made me a little dizzy...definitely didn't do that again. I'll try mixing it up the new stuff the first few time with my mask on.Thank you for your help on this topic.
......great questions Julie.....Im not a chemist, so all I can do is put it in my terms.....the Jelly balls forming is what they call precipitation reaction.....usually from the calcium nitrate and magnesium being mixed together......calcium nitrate should be well mixed before adding any form of magnesium, even then it may still happen. ...If im using calcium nitrate, or my mix has calcium nitrate in it..... I dont add any additional magnesium, and dont add calmag to it.....I add the calmag to my flushing water usually or will add it if im using other nutrient mixes....like the General Hydroponics liquid nutrients......as long as your ph is 5.0 to 6.3........your fine........allowing your ph to swing or fluctuate is a good thing.....it allows the orchids to absorb a wider range of different minerals......hope that makes sense, and Ive answered you question....
Hi Rick, I’m new to the hobby and I’m trying to learn, lots of great information from you and credible too! I’m using mix bark/moss/perlite/charcoal - with 75 % more bark. I’m new to ph info, just been watering with plain tap, adding 18-30-15 fertilizer, sometimes adds epson salt, and Superthrive, or just plain 18-5-5 Schultz and epsom. I’ve had some success in some orchids but killed roots on some. I think I’ve added more moss on those with root loss. I soak the pot in fertilizer, and used larger pots on some. I’ve had spider mites and mealy bugs and scale infestation, lost blooms but have nice root growth and new leaves on some, mixed bag you can say. Lost bottom leaves on thos that grew new roots. The roots are growing between leaves and above the media. I have just 12 phals, small collection but I want to be successful and patient with my phals. Hope you get the picture and give me tips. I’ve not measures ph level but how do i know what’s my media ph level? Do i need to measure /know media ph first before watering with water with correct ph? Water ph where I live is about 7.5. If my media has been acidic, how should I fertilize? How best can I adjust my watering with tap? I wish you blessings and success in everything. Thanks so much!
my guess is about using low nitrogen fertilizer one week and high N the next week. It would change the acidity level of the solution and make orchids to absorb high range of the microelements... I'm not sure about water. .. Rainwater is quite alkaline. .. We are all waiting for the next video!
.......yes...simply using lower levels or stronger levels to adjust ph and nutrient absorption....will work short term....but plants will suffer over time....thank you very much.
Hello Mr Rick.. Thanks for your knowledge! The pH availability chart made it clearer which elements would be absorbed at which pH range. It made more sense to me rather than just saying that pH is important and has to adjusted for nutrients to be absorbed. I’m sorry if my question might sound stupid.. I’m not clear though if that pH should be on that level before or after adding fertilizer? Thank you again.
a great question Cyril.......ask anything anytime....its best to have the ph near neutral...or 7.0.....most mixes will drop the ph about 1 whole point......example:..from 7.3 down to 6.3.....So if orchids need a ph of 6.0-6.8......you want your starting water ph to be with in a point of that......if that makes sense..........wonderful question.
OMG, This is awesome. I am going to send this video to my email. Over the years I have taken quite an interest in science because of my gardening and of course orchids. This information is very helpful and for the most part vital. I am sure you will get more of your followers interested. Please give us more. My question. Is this why you like to give your nutrients in single batches? Maybe you test for ph to calcium absorption one day, then test for magnesium absorption the next. And one more question, why wouldn't you want a multi mineral feeding mix packed with all of these minerals and then using the sweet spot, try and get the mixture right at 5.8? Just saying. Also, wondering about the NPK minerals. Is there certain mineral mixes for different seasons or different orchids?
you very kind Rita, and wonderful questions.......at the time I did not have a general balanced mix.......so I used what I had around.... Most of the orchids I have are rescues or from the dead rack at the garden center........and they all were suffering from loss of roots as well as had some type of nutrient deficiency.....With a background in hydroponics...treating them with individual nutrients was more for my benefit to help with diagnosing the issues....and to learn from....Now that most are over the issues and growing well, Im using a more balanced mix. Its important to know the mix ingredients and give them any minerals....that are missing......such as Calcium & Magnesium... a multi mineral mix .......is great and what you want to use, including myself......again read and know the mix......most are chelated.....and so will absorb over a range of ph's......low 6's is usually fine....no need to drop to sweet spot of 5.8.........N is more for growth...P & K are for blooming, yes.....but P is very important in root growth....and K is one that makes them all work together...very important...
old video and still very good. ph down solution is nothing more than citric acid, which you can buy much cheaper in powder. malic acid can be tried also, as research shows positive response by plant roots.
@@remaeburney832 : lemon juice contains other things, and may not be the best ph down ingredient. i have now found a sulfuric acid based ph down solution from aquarium trade. researched it and supposedly the best type of ph down for plants. i only use a few drops per 20 litre sink tub, where i mix the nutrients. either way, should be using ph test strips or indicator solution or a good ph tester meant for liquid testing. all these ph down solutions are very strong acidifiers in small quantity. you dont want to be watering plants with ph 3-4 nutrient solution, where most nutrients are unavailable.
Hi Rick, I have just become a subscriber and appreciate the info you shared about ph! Never knew much about it but I see the importance of it now! Thanks for sharing. I have also just implemented your tea and lemon juice regime for one of my phals, I only have two, and one has no roots and wrinkly leaves. I have also trimmed the stem and am letting it dry out now, soaked it last night. Should I continue with this till I see root growth or what? Thanks, Joy.
Please tell us how to control the pH. That would be great. I understand pH levels you are talking about only refer to inert medias, like stones etc. However same principals apply to organic medias, right? Please correct me if I am wrong. These matters you are bringing along are so interesting, please go on. Good job. Thank you very very much. (You have quite a job ahead of you, giving us more knowledge means we want to know more. Oh, boy! :))
Hi Rick, I'm new to your channel. I Love it you have so much knowledge about all of these nutrients. I have non. I use a orchid fertilizer from repotme.com I sure would Love to know how to read all of the things that your talking about. Where do I get one of those tools you use when your testing all the levels as your making up your fertilizers. I don't have a clue on how to measure ph levels or anything like that. We live in Michigan in the Country. Our water is hard so I purchased a fertilizer from repotme.com. Any Advice you can give me I would be so very Grateful. I have 13 phalaenopsis orchids now. I have 4 in spike right now and one of them is getting a new spike. Recently I purchased 5 phalaenopsis orchids from Walmart that were just bone dry. The flower's were all dying so I spoke to a manager and bought them for $2.88 for each one. I buy my orchid mix from repotme.com also. Out of the 5 that I bought for $2.88 for each one. There is one that still has floppy rubbery leaves. It's doing better than it was but, I'm not sure what else to do. Thank you in Advance Roxanne
understanding ph and its effects on absorption of nutrient's, is important with orchids,....and it helps with diagnosing issues...feed your orchid's between 6.0 - 6.8 and your fine
Hello Rick I enjoyed looking at your orchids they are beautiful I have a few phalonopsis and dendrobium trying hard with them .But I noticed the dendrobium spiking but looking closely they are not flowering spike but baby plants never flower before .What do you think please help
some types of dendrobiums are prone to keiki's .....some more than others..if they get to much nitrogen during the resting stage or pre-bloom stage it can effect hormones...and keiki's are produced instead of bloom spikes..
Rick, I'm binge watching your videos instead of sleeping. This idea of deliberately varying Ph levels is fascinating! I've been growing orchids for 7 years and you've inspired me to step up my game in a more thoughtful way-- instead of just lucking out, spending money on "miracle" chemicals and media. The fact that your plants so good and you've only been at this a year speaks to your understanding of how these beauties grow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Reese.........that's exactly the mindset I'm trying to push......you don't need a bunch or stuff.......you just need to know how to use it......I'm relying on you guys to teach me about orchids.......I know how to grow.......Thank you so much.
I fertilize weakly weekly and use a fertilizer for well water. So, do I use that AND supplement? Also, should one supplement every week? Buy the way, use lava rock but now adding gravel with it. Thank you for this helpful information.
This is what I understand. I am to have a good fertilizer and have on hand the right nitrogen. Keep checking the PH.. If the PH is off then add nitrogen to the usual fertilizer. Now, I have yellow tipped leaves, I assume this is lac k of mag/cal, so I should check PH and if off, add nitro with regular feeding. or do I forget the MSU for wells and just add nitro when needed. If that is so, then where does the plants get nutrients in an inorganic set-up? From the bacteria???
Sharon....I or someone has you turned around......use a low feed strength...........make sure your ph is in the range of 5.6 to 6.4.......it can go up and down....just keep it in that range......going up and down is good for them.......they dont need any extra nutrients if you do this......they will get a little of everything......if your mix is for orchids and balanced..........your done.
Oh my I wish Roger had this chart when he was trying to explain this. And yes he gives the source of the information. I bet you know that. He is how I found you. I need to thank him for it.
very good info. I am getting a ph tester today. I moved 5 years ago from the country where I used well water, now I use city water. I can see my orchids are not as happy as they were. with the yellowing leaves. I thought it was the lack of something. So now I am thinking it is calcium . do you think adding in some calcium nitrate would be a good idea. I use DYNA-GRO orchid pro 7-8-6 . and what do you think about Superthrive or Kelpmax . and I was thinking about using some of Jacks orchid special 30-10-10 just to change my fertilizer from time to time. I am not sure about the MSU Fertilizer using city water. now i do let the water stand for a day or 2 to get out the chlorine.
Laura.....1st thanks for watching, and commenting..........what your using is probably fine.......check the ingredients in your mix before adding supplements..........usually the element is present but ph is off so it cant absorb it.....if that makes sense....before you change mixes, and spend money on supplements...........swing the ph of the water and let the plant absorb a more varied diet......most issues will correct themselves.........super thrive is good stuff.....but with orchids, has been know to cause issues......B vitamin, growth acid concentrates....
Ok so I just found your channel and may I say Sir...you know your stuff. Thank you for informing video and very well put vid also. May I ask, clarify:once the fertiliser has been added , do you then add PH up/down?
……..good question......yes,... after everything is mixed......then see if the PH needs adjusting...….as long as your in the 6's for ph...…...its fine.....
Thanks for this video! I sometimes water my orchids with tap water, sometimes with distilled/condensed water, because I figure it's good for them to have a little variety there. Are you going to do one on how the ph of media matters too? My media is slightly acidic (5.6) but my tap water is slightly alkaline (avg 7.8)
......actually my next one was going to be on water and water quality for orchids....should explain it, and address those concerns...thank for the comments.......love questions..
Rick, Thank thank thank so very much.I got it. I should put more effort in learning to your concept for I killed five Phals this month ☹️. I love your soup analogy 😆😆 it so cool , now it stuck on my brain. Thank too for the chart. You are great teacher. Take care and best regard to Jan.Keep the positive attitude. You & Jan is always in my prayers. God is faithful
hi Rick, i use a fertiliser called Duett A&B and Aquasol each week in my watering + they get a slight foliar feed at the same time...after submerging the pots.... for phals/ brassias/omcids etc... can you tell me if this is ok...
......not familiar with the Duett nutrient....but Aquasol, I've seen used commercially, but no experience....it is a urea base N....so in high heat it may burn....and at low temps it wont feed well and can burn also......in good weather.....should be ok....I would go real light, to prevent build up....i like that it has good amount of mag in it.....feeding wet roots is best way to prevent burns...your doing well.
Hi Rick Not to be redundant, but the chart you showed where 5.8 was, the magnesium and the calcium absorbed either right on 5.8 and above or right on 5.8 and below. So is this why you feed magnesium and calcium separately? This would make sense, since both of these absorb the best at opposite ends of the scale. Another question. I did watch a young woman on RUclips who has great luck with her orchids. She had only Phals. But this is where I got the idea of egg shells crushed on top of the orchid. Then I looked up the minerals in egg shells and they have calcium, magnesium and a host of other minerals, which I found very fascinating. The one question who be, do you know anything about the absorbency of eggs shells regarding Ph?
Hi Rich, it is me again. I have been watching this video over and over and over again. Sorry but I donot understand some of the issues. For example, let say I have used hydroponic solution for fixing the ph to 5.8. Then What happens if I add fertiliser to this water. Does my ph goes up or down or stay the same. How should I manage to fix my ph at 5.8? Let say I could not manage to fix it, and when and which elements are missing to get more spider mits and melly bugs ect? Mg and ca? Please please make more videos on that issue. What happens if K missing or Ca missing or Mg missing please 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
.....bark is just media, just something to anchor the plant......nether hydroponic or soil.......however orchids grow hydroponically in their ph ranges and feeding......as for mixing nutrients......most orchid mixes will drop the ph of your water......you need to start with water near the 6.7 -7.0 mark......so when the fertilizer is added it will drop down to 5.8-6.2.....which is fine for feeding...it doesn't need to be at 5.8 all the time......just let it swing...one time 6.5....next time 5.9....etc.....they will get a more varied diet that way..... plants with a healthy cell structure are less likely to have bugs, mites, etc.....all the minerals add to good cell structure......but calcium and Phos are 2 main ones.....I will do some more fertilizer videos to answer these questions better.........thank you.......excellent questions...
Sold ! I've been getting some pale patches on a few orchids and although I was sure it was either magnesium or calcium (or both) deficiency, I couldn't work out which. My RO water starts with a PH of 7.0. Because I've been feeding at lower levels this year, the 'fertiliser' is weaker and therefore not lowering the PH as much so it's not getting down low enough for the calcium to kick in. I need to alternate with how I feed now which gets everything into the plants except the calcium and then adjust the PH down every other time to get the calcium absorbed. I just need something to do that (which I don't have at the moment). Thanks for this - when I looked into all this, I wish I'd found that chart !!! Just proves that it doesn't have to be complicated.
Marcy *** Yes but the point is that I've been feeding at lower levels this year so my PH hasn't been dropping as much as it would with higher levels so I've probably been restricting the Calcium uptake.
Marcy, and not to butt in.....the entire orchid mix Roger uses naturally because of its composition will drop the mix to around 6.0+/-....Nitrogen on its own wont drop ph.....but if you feed at lower levels....the mix isnt strong enough ...may only drop too 6.5...so he would miss some elements...
Thank you for this very informative video! I recently found out about the importance of pH, and bought myself a pH meter, just to find out that I was having too high pH, and my orchids didn't get their proper nutrients this summer. Since this year I converted to proper sh, I've been using small dosages of feed, and of course the pH was affected. Last year, though, I used high amount of fertilizer, and didn't see a problem... I ordered now some proper hidroponic ph down, thanks to you! What do you think about using products that contain seaweed or fish mix, as an additional feeding product? I don't refer to foliar feed, but just adding those things at the roots, as a normal feeding, together with proper fertilizer?
so happy to see you here......Im a big fan of your shows....incredible work you have done with Fusarium and WC.........I love the kelp or seaweed feeds........but they can push your potassium(k) to high levels when fed to roots......I prefer to deliver that in foliar sprays........even though its one of the most important elements.....K can block a lot of other elements when it collects....a good balanced (thats key) fertilizer will feed fine......if you swing the ph they will get some of everything....
Rick L Unfortunately, here in Romania I can't find any balanced fertilizer, not in EU. And ordering from USA is out of my reach, as Amazon asks about 25$ just for shipping. Although I haven't been feeding in the recommended dosages with correct pH, like...never, my orchids show no bad signs. Can't understand why, but I am happy. Maybe cuz I also use slow release fertilizer too... Can't wait to see your video about water :D I would like to try river rocks in sh too, maybe after my exams...or next spring:)) I would love my orchids not to get knocked over during bad storms...
Hi Rick, I am adding Epsom salt to my Focus Grow fertilizer, I have a separate calcium fertilizer can I add it to the epsom salt and focus grow fertilizer or should I feed my Calcium separately? Thanks.
.Merlin, thanks for watching.......I always feed Ca separately....some dont, but it can mix odd sometimes....if its Calmag or Cal nit....I feed alone...
........I have many in lava rock........the media isnt the issue.......what do you mean loosing green tips........are they turning yellow?.......or black on ends?......
Chris....google "Hydroponic ph chart".......apparently the link I showed is connected to a Cannabis site..as are a lot of them.....not that's there anything wrong with that.....but don't want to spring that on a unsuspecting viewer...the chart will be there....it will show it along with several others
Why does pH matter if I am just using the water for flushing (I.e., ordinary watering)? I can understand why dissolved solids are important, but not pH in this situation.
....great question.........in principal I agree.....and as long as you know your beginning ph ranges.......your fine......but plenty of tap water in the mid to high 7's and I wont use it for flushing....I prefer to keep the ph range in the same as the plant would get in nature....mid to upper 6's.......for most roots not an issue.......but for fine roots it can burn...even with low dissolved solids........and exceptions to every rule.......but if your use to keeping it in the correct range......than less likely to have a screw up..
Hi Rick, I use citric acid if I need to lower the pH, which is rarely as my rainwater (and apparently all over Australia ) has a pH of 5.5. So if necessary after I add fertiliser I use pH up to get it to 5.8. Also, an older grower told me I told get some water, test the pH, then pour it through my media (bark) and see what the pH is.. Any comments?
Michael...thanks for watching.....great question.....what he is saying is check your run off......if you take some water...check ph.....lets say its 7.0.....then pour it thru your plant pot.....and collect the run off.....then check the ph again....it will tell you how acidic or alkaline your root mass is .....you can also check to see how much residual ppm your holding back.......good stuff, and a great way to monitor your plants......I do it all the time...always know your base #'s.....before adding anything. I've read that a lot of growers over there use limestone to grow in because of the acidic water.......
Thanks Rick. I have always wondered if the bark eventually takes on the pH of the fertiliser that I use (presuming it has not broken down). I use NZ bark. Leca is good but as we grow outside all year here, the winter can make the roots too cold in rocks, pebbles, leca etc. I lost a stack of phallies in a winter when i had them in scoria
all good points...I need to read up on your climate just out of curiosity.....I thought it was more tropical......most bark, of any type will hold on to nutrients....not so much the Nutrient ph....usually a lot lower........biggest thing about bark is.....after the 1st time it gets wet....it starts breaking down, and at that point the bacteria that breaks it down eat a lot of N.....they will get it from somewhere..they can starve a plant if you dont feed extra.....and as it breaks down the ph lowers.........adding some Dol Lime to your water or using a higher ph will compensate.....
I am on the Sunshine Coast, SE Queensland. We have a wet season and a dry season (now). Nights can be a low as 6 Celsius and days up to 27 C. Summers are humid and maybe lows of 20 at night and max maybe 30. I was given a bum steer in the pH for bark. The bloke who told me obviously didnt realise the chart was for soil.
i noticed in your other Ph video on the meter you were using products by GEneral Hydroponics..i started using their products..maxi grow..maxi bloom about a year ago thanks to my buddy Mike Brodzick the growing grunt..anyway i have had phenomenal results due to that product...i haven't even looked at the nutrient content on the back..just used it solely based on his results..switched from MSU because it wasn't doing shit for me...i am new to Ph...really just starting measuring it after 30+ years due to Roger and since i have started using rain water...well still use the hose..anyway happy growing
..........MSU is fine, as is other salts......but some of those straight up nitrates with those micros are the bomb....super potent and like candy to a plant......I'm same way, mix my own....but caution with ppms...get that ph dialed in and you be cutting vines trying to get to the coffee maker....
…….those are fine, in tiny amounts.....use caution...…..I prefer to use kelp/seaweed to lower ph and baking soda to raise it...…..as long as your ph is in the 6's...….your fine for feeding orchids..
It all depends on the type of fertilizer you use and the alkalinity of your water source. Fine tuning the ph of your nutrient solution can be a good thing, specially in hydroponics, but knowing the chemical reaction that takes place in the root zone is much more important for plants grown in containers with traditional media. For example phals grown in sphagnum moss can have a root ph of 4 or even lower without any nutrient issues, while phals grown in orchiata bark (which is treated to have some buffering capacity) can also have a runoff within 4-5 ph range with no issues. The best thing you can do is test your water alkalinity and ask for an advice by a professional, and if you want to dig deeper read this: staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/ChoosingYourFertilizerBasedonYourWaterQualitybySueBottom.pdf Love your videos Regards D
......good question......adjusting the ph is needed if your water is outside of the acceptable range......the nutrients are designed to lower the ph of the mix.......if your beginning water is around 6.5 to 7.5..........you should be fine with out adjusting it.........if I need to drop the ph of my mix......i use kelp/seaweed..a few drops per gallon.....citric acid as well as PH down supplements can drop it and be used also.
Rick L. Orchids hi Rick, thanks for responding, you are the only one that responded to my questions :) I haven’t realized you have a separate video on how to do it. I’ve watched many videos and yours is the only one that made sense to me especially that you showed how to mix your own.
thank you again......answering questions and discussing growing with others is the best part of Utube......at least to me it is.....happy to assist anytime I can....
Hi Rick! Yes...another video on this one please! Water and pH is so incredibly important to successful growing. Thanks so much for another great video!
so glad you enjoyed it.....
@@HerebutNotthat’s maybe because ‘you’re here but not’.
I have 100 orchids and had the same pH as you claim to have and it was killing my roots!!! Yes there we’re constantly new leaves coming. Because ambient conditions were just so perfect but roots is what one is looking for .. and blooms.
Rick, your videos are incredibly helpful! You explain pH in a way that makes it digestible for us newbie orchid growers! Those were great analogies. I have a background in raising fish in aquariums, but I didn't even realize the importance of pH for plants and orchids. You've opened my eyes! Thank you for your great informative videos 🙂🌺 Grow on!
wonderful feedback Emily...thank you
The PH part while on your monitor was brilliant! I really appreciate the clear message & excellent info!!
My plants could be doing a lot better I think, and this video lit a fire under my ass to start paying more attention to PH. Thank you!
Thank you for helping me save my plants from imminent death 😢
Yes. They were sprouting new leaves. I thought that was a sign then we’re healthy, but there was new root growth or flowering. Now I know why !!
Omg!!!! No wonder my orchids don't bloom. Im buying now a ph reader. Ty very much. More educational videos pls.
Great video....not sure how I missed it before....Thank you Rick :)
I just started growing orchids again after 20 years....I stumbled upon this video and it was so helpful....I am going to browse your other videos hoping to find one that goes more in depth into this!!!!Thank you!!!!
HOORAY, finally someone understands, plants are the same as people
different ailments can be caused by too much acid or alkaline in the system. Aborigines
knew some plants are toxic in some areas, while the same plants in another
area were ok, because of the ph in the soil. The older the plant the higher/lower
PH in the fruits, roots or leaves. PH changes depending on the season.
I could go on about this forever, you have hit the nail on the head, your uncomplicated way of
explaining to your band of followers is so refreshing and simple. Thank you.
.......your comments are what I love to hear......none of this is heavy chemistry.....just simple hydro growing......and watching the plants..thank you my friend......
love the tables! We all read these multiple acticles, but only one small table makes everything clear! Thank you!
thank you for the feedback.....
Just wanted to say, thank you so much for the video! This is the first time I've been able to comprehend exactly why PH is important. You've inspired me to change how I do things in my watering schedule. None of my orchids were reviving much of anything because my LECA medium raised the PH. If it wasn't for you, I never would have even thought it mattered. Now I'm learning how to control that and use the natural rise in PH from my medium to my advantage. Thank you so much for sharing in a simple way to help those of us who are not well versed in how hydroponics works
……..I love feedback like this......I just want everyone to have the same success I do....thank you!
Very interesting, would be great to learn more about this subject👍😊
....thank you, more on its way..
Awesome and informative video! I will check the PH of the fertiliser mix I give to my orchids. Thanks
Great discussion on ph. Thank you Rick
Yes, the PH conversation helps a lot. This may be the orchid education I am missing. Please continue with PH videos.
.....on its way my friend...
Ph is important for water you drink and for your orchids. Your orchids look great so I say absolutely important. 😄👍💚
Thank You Diana........you've been a great supporter.
Very good information, Rick. I'm learning so much! Keep teaching!!
Thanks Bobette,,,,,,,we will be visiting nutrition and ph again...
Thank You Rick!....I am pretty sure I watched this before, but I just bought a PH pen and wanted a little refresher :)
Makes sense. I would love to hear more about PH and Orchid nutrition.
Omg where have you been??? ❤️❤️ please keep it coming. Going back to day 1 of your vids. Canada's watching 🙌
heh heh heh,,........love that......Hello Canada!........very sweet Judy!
Do more ph information please.
Canada loves you, Rick,
Rick, this information is SO helpful! Thanks for presenting it in such an easy to understand way.
Thank you Susan....
Hi Rick
I just watched this video for the second time. I was a little confused when you stated that the Ph should swing. Now I know exactly what you are saying. It took me awhile, but now I get it. I already have citric acid as I use it as a natural rinse for my hair, but I can see exactly what you are saying. I want to put this chart in my grow room, so when I mix I can chart the feedings, so I'll have a record of the ph from each feeding. Thanks again so much. This is so great! Blessings, Rita
thank you Rita....its a hard concept to follow, for even experienced growers......read labels, check you mix......most are chelated and you dont need to swing it as much.......
I just subscribed your channel ,it is very informative
I like your work on fertilisers pls more,just got a ph and tds meter 3 weeks ago
And was testings ph and tds leves with differt amonds of feed,and by luck opted for feed of 1/3strength
With ph of 5,8 and tds 230.
Thank you very much
appreciate you joining us.....your headed in the right direction.....
I did a quick check today. My tap was 6.82ph and 51ppm. Then I added my cal/mg and my ph was 6.61 184ppm. So even with the cal/mg i am missing the sweet spot. I need to check again with my fertilizer and cal/mg supplemented in and see what it reads. So it's my cal and micro nutrients that are missing. I knew I was calcium deficient. If the fert doesn't read properly I might have to take a field trip to my local hydro store ♥♥♥ This is one of the best videos ever ♥
remember calmag is usually chelated, check the label.......that means it can be absorbed at other PH ranges......6.0-6.5 is fine.....your close enough........using PH is good for isolating nutrients or to direct feed..........with most orchid mixes a little swing is enough.......
Yes, more! Your orchids looks fabulous...and those leaves! BTW, I noticed the clay orchid pots you have...Home Depot had the holey ones last summer because I bought about 4 of them. The info on their website, however, only shows the regular orchid pots like you have.
Eileen, thank you ......love the feedback.....I like the orchid pots they sell, ...I always add/drill a drain hole thru center.....not a fan of the glazed saucer set up.....put love the air flow.....
Hello! So many things i still have to learn for growing my orchids))) Thanks for this video! Will wait the next one)))
appreciate the kind words Svetlana......
I’m a recent subscriber and already I am learning so much from you, thank you! This topic is super interesting to me so more please 👍🏻 I would like to know more about ph swings and growing in bark and on mounts too.
thanks and welcome....we will get back into ph and a few other things soon...
Wow! Learning a lot on your channel, Rick. Thanks for this video! ;-)
love this video still.... I remember the first time I watched it I had no idea the impact of monitoring PH levels. Thank you Rick :D
It's very informative video. Thank you for sharing, Rick...
thank you for watching......
Further. Go further. This is exactly what I've been looking for. Have been considering rain water, tapwater, and fish tank water. More please!
.......hope its coming off in a way to understand....it will get easier as it goes along....
Rick L oh I totally get it. I'm nodding my head as you're talking. Makes perfect sense.
Rick L I totally get it. As you were talking I am nodding my head yes. Makes perfect sense
That's fantastic info Rick....and it made total sense to me and I always thought the the PH thing was way to complicated for me...but not any more
.....hang tight Debra.........about to get even deeper......but will get easier I swear....
Thanks Rick, extremely informative. Right now I'm feelin a little silly. As a nutritionist I am always talking to humans about varying their diet and eating a little of everything. Why I never thought about it for my orchids is beyond me. Perfectly timed as well. We've just had a day of rain here in Michigan and it's time to fertilize.
........just what I like to hear........thank you so much.
this is the video I needed!! I know my tap water is 6.1 from my first test run with my PH pen when I first got it. I need to calibrate it and actually sit down and do it properly take notes. But this helps explain why and what I need to be at. I don't remeber what my TDS reading was ♥
.....knowing what the tap ppm/tds reading and ph as well........makes big difference
Yes another video please more info
yes tell us more!! I'm a newbie thanks for the video
Hi Rick. Did you make part 2 of this video? I really like to understand more about pH as relates to orchid growth and be in control. Thank you so much for all that you do.
I may have.....but it may have been lost during a U tube glitche......the main thing to remember about Ph and orchids is that minerals all have specific ranges that they absorb best in.......but..Chelated minerals like we have in most of our orchid nutrients(check your label).......are designed to be absorbed outside of their normal ph ranges.......so as long as your starting water is 7.8 or lower......you should be fine.....Nutrient mixes are designed to lower the ph as they dissolve....best thing is to get a meter and check your starting water ph & your nutrient mix.......then you know where your at and how the nutrients will lower it..........PH is only important to begin with.......see what your water is and occasionally check it.......keeps your orchids happy and feeding better......
and now, i understand. Thank you so much.
Waiting to learn more!
...thank you.......coming soon.
Thanks again Rick!!!
I really like used aqaurium water once a week to feed my oncidium and cattleyas. Once weekly i use epsom salt during the growing season. Always have crushed, not powder, clean eggshells at the base of the plant so roots can grasp a small chunk.Rainwater, depending on direction of air where i am, gulf of mexico south and tennessee tombigbee warerway close by gives me varied ph during rainstorms. Good advice you give. Did not know about nutrient absorbtion ph before you mentioned it.
......you have a wonderful natural connection to things growing around you, as well as a great understanding of growing......
I try but your plants are nicer than mine.....so far. Gaining ground!
HI Rick, This is a great video and I have visited it often. I have a question for you...I am using cal mag with Fe. I believe the Fe is chelate(d). This would affect the Fe absorbability, how about the Cal and Mag?? (I do not believe the cal and mag are chelated to the Iron.) Would these then become absorbable by the plant at the same PH range as the Fe? If no, I need to PH down more to grab that Cal. I tried asking the guy at the shop- what is now in OZ the "headshop" the Aquaponic/hydroponic shop-anyway....guy just looked at me and blinked when I asked. They stopped carrying my usual brand so...i am trying a new one. I am hoping this one doesn't create theses occasional little jelly balls -like small tapioca- when I mix it with fertilizer. The old one did....i'd prefer to give all the "nutrients" except for when I flush, have not been able to because of these little jelly balls. Totally unsure what sort of chemical reaction God I offended to cause that, but...yeah...nah.. I started my "routine" after that. It also made me a little dizzy...definitely didn't do that again. I'll try mixing it up the new stuff the first few time with my mask on.Thank you for your help on this topic.
......great questions Julie.....Im not a chemist, so all I can do is put it in my terms.....the Jelly balls forming is what they call precipitation reaction.....usually from the calcium nitrate and magnesium being mixed together......calcium nitrate should be well mixed before adding any form of magnesium, even then it may still happen. ...If im using calcium nitrate, or my mix has calcium nitrate in it..... I dont add any additional magnesium, and dont add calmag to it.....I add the calmag to my flushing water usually or will add it if im using other nutrient mixes....like the General Hydroponics liquid nutrients......as long as your ph is 5.0 to 6.3........your fine........allowing your ph to swing or fluctuate is a good thing.....it allows the orchids to absorb a wider range of different minerals......hope that makes sense, and Ive answered you question....
Just subscribed, and hoping for more.
Thank You so much Robin...
My favourite video...
Hi Rick, I’m new to the hobby and I’m trying to learn, lots of great information from you and credible too! I’m using mix bark/moss/perlite/charcoal - with 75 % more bark. I’m new to ph info, just been watering with plain tap, adding 18-30-15 fertilizer, sometimes adds epson salt, and Superthrive, or just plain 18-5-5 Schultz and epsom. I’ve had some success in some orchids but killed roots on some. I think I’ve added more moss on those with root loss. I soak the pot in fertilizer, and used larger pots on some. I’ve had spider
mites and mealy bugs and scale infestation, lost blooms but have nice root growth and new leaves on some, mixed bag you can say. Lost bottom leaves on thos that grew new roots. The roots are growing between leaves and above the media. I have just 12 phals, small collection but I want to be successful and patient with my phals. Hope you get the picture and give me tips. I’ve not measures ph level but how do i know what’s my media ph level? Do i need to measure /know media ph first before watering with water with correct ph? Water ph where I live is about 7.5.
If my media has been acidic, how should I fertilize? How best can I adjust my watering with tap? I wish you blessings and success in everything. Thanks so much!
Wow! Thanks for making this video!
Keep going with this please.
thank you Sharon.....planning on it.
So the ph upper and downer (i saw them in bottles) on Amazon.com will work? Yes, plz continue with info
my guess is about using low nitrogen fertilizer one week and high N the next week. It would change the acidity level of the solution and make orchids to absorb high range of the microelements...
I'm not sure about water. .. Rainwater is quite alkaline. .. We are all waiting for the next video!
.......yes...simply using lower levels or stronger levels to adjust ph and nutrient absorption....will work short term....but plants will suffer over time....thank you very much.
Hello Mr Rick.. Thanks for your knowledge! The pH availability chart made it clearer which elements would be absorbed at which pH range. It made more sense to me rather than just saying that pH is important and has to adjusted for nutrients to be absorbed. I’m sorry if my question might sound stupid.. I’m not clear though if that pH should be on that level before or after adding fertilizer? Thank you again.
a great question Cyril.......ask anything anytime....its best to have the ph near neutral...or 7.0.....most mixes will drop the ph about 1 whole point......example:..from 7.3 down to 6.3.....So if orchids need a ph of 6.0-6.8......you want your starting water ph to be with in a point of that......if that makes sense..........wonderful question.
OMG, This is awesome. I am going to send this video to my email. Over the years I have taken quite an interest in science because of my gardening and of course orchids. This information is very helpful and for the most part vital. I am sure you will get more of your followers interested. Please give us more. My question. Is this why you like to give your nutrients in single batches? Maybe you test for ph to calcium absorption one day, then test for magnesium absorption the next. And one more question, why wouldn't you want a multi mineral feeding mix packed with all of these minerals and then using the sweet spot, try and get the mixture right at 5.8? Just saying. Also, wondering about the NPK minerals. Is there certain mineral mixes for different seasons or different orchids?
you very kind Rita, and wonderful questions.......at the time I did not have a general balanced mix.......so I used what I had around.... Most of the orchids I have are rescues or from the dead rack at the garden center........and they all were suffering from loss of roots as well as had some type of nutrient deficiency.....With a background in hydroponics...treating them with individual nutrients was more for my benefit to help with diagnosing the issues....and to learn from....Now that most are over the issues and growing well, Im using a more balanced mix. Its important to know the mix ingredients and give them any minerals....that are missing......such as Calcium & Magnesium...
a multi mineral mix .......is great and what you want to use, including myself......again read and know the mix......most are chelated.....and so will absorb over a range of ph's......low 6's is usually fine....no need to drop to sweet spot of 5.8.........N is more for growth...P & K are for blooming, yes.....but P is very important in root growth....and K is one that makes them all work together...very important...
old video and still very good.
ph down solution is nothing more than citric acid, which you can buy much cheaper in powder. malic acid can be tried also, as research shows positive response by plant roots.
...and lemon juice. Just 1 or 2 drops per cup. 😊
O no! He said, no lemon juice. I use the same lemon juice from a lemon that I put in my tea! Comment back, ok?
@@remaeburney832 : lol
@@remaeburney832 : lemon juice contains other things, and may not be the best ph down ingredient. i have now found a sulfuric acid based ph down solution from aquarium trade. researched it and supposedly the best type of ph down for plants. i only use a few drops per 20 litre sink tub, where i mix the nutrients.
either way, should be using ph test strips or indicator solution or a good ph tester meant for liquid testing. all these ph down solutions are very strong acidifiers in small quantity. you dont want to be watering plants with ph 3-4 nutrient solution, where most nutrients are unavailable.
Great video Ricky, perfect explanation of ph range needed for orchids without it being a heavy lesson in chemistry. Hadn't seen this one till now!
Hi Rick, I have just become a subscriber and appreciate the info you shared about ph! Never knew much about it but I see the importance of it now! Thanks for sharing. I have also just implemented your tea and lemon juice regime for one of my phals, I only have two, and one has no roots and wrinkly leaves. I have also trimmed the stem and am letting it dry out now, soaked it last night. Should I continue with this till I see root growth or what? Thanks, Joy.
Joy......soak them off and on till you see hydration.....once they are absorbing and plumping up....stop the tea mixture....
Please tell us how to control the pH. That would be great. I understand pH levels you are talking about only refer to inert medias, like stones etc. However same principals apply to organic medias, right? Please correct me if I am wrong.
These matters you are bringing along are so interesting, please go on. Good job. Thank you very very much. (You have quite a job ahead of you, giving us more knowledge means we want to know more. Oh, boy! :))
......this is a very easy concept and makes the most difference in growing...PH adjusting coming...
Hi Rick, I'm new to your channel. I Love it you have so much knowledge about all of these nutrients. I have non. I use a orchid fertilizer from repotme.com I sure would Love to know how to read all of the things that your talking about. Where do I get one of those tools you use when your testing all the levels as your making up your fertilizers. I don't have a clue on how to measure ph levels or anything like that. We live in Michigan in the Country. Our water is hard so I purchased a fertilizer from repotme.com. Any Advice you can give me I would be so very Grateful. I have 13 phalaenopsis orchids now. I have 4 in spike right now and one of them is getting a new spike. Recently I purchased 5 phalaenopsis orchids from Walmart that were just bone dry. The flower's were all dying so I spoke to a manager and bought them for $2.88 for each one. I buy my orchid mix from repotme.com also. Out of the 5 that I bought for $2.88 for each one. There is one that still has floppy rubbery leaves. It's doing better than it was but, I'm not sure what else to do. Thank you in Advance Roxanne
I think I answered this one.........let me know if I can help with anything else.
Please elaborate on the pH Rick!
understanding ph and its effects on absorption of nutrient's, is important with orchids,....and it helps with diagnosing issues...feed your orchid's between 6.0 - 6.8 and your fine
Hello Rick I enjoyed looking at your orchids they are beautiful I have a few phalonopsis and dendrobium trying hard with them .But I noticed the dendrobium spiking but looking closely they are not flowering spike but baby plants never flower before .What do you think please help
some types of dendrobiums are prone to keiki's .....some more than others..if they get to much nitrogen during the resting stage or pre-bloom stage it can effect hormones...and keiki's are produced instead of bloom spikes..
Rick, I'm binge watching your videos instead of sleeping. This idea of deliberately varying Ph levels is fascinating! I've been growing orchids for 7 years and you've inspired me to step up my game in a more thoughtful way-- instead of just lucking out, spending money on "miracle" chemicals and media. The fact that your plants so good and you've only been at this a year speaks to your understanding of how these beauties grow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Reese.........that's exactly the mindset I'm trying to push......you don't need a bunch or stuff.......you just need to know how to use it......I'm relying on you guys to teach me about orchids.......I know how to grow.......Thank you so much.
I fertilize weakly weekly and use a fertilizer for well water. So, do I use that AND supplement? Also, should one supplement every week? Buy the way, use lava rock but now adding gravel with it. Thank you for this helpful information.
Sharon....not sure if I understand the question...basically.....you should vary the ph of your plants feed so they can absorb more varied diet...
This is what I understand. I am to have a good fertilizer and have on hand the right nitrogen. Keep checking the PH.. If the PH is off then add nitrogen to the usual fertilizer. Now, I have yellow tipped leaves, I assume this is lac k of mag/cal, so I should check PH and if off, add nitro with regular feeding. or do I forget the MSU for wells and just add nitro when needed. If that is so, then where does the plants get nutrients in an inorganic set-up? From the bacteria???
Sharon....I or someone has you turned around......use a low feed strength...........make sure your ph is in the range of 5.6 to 6.4.......it can go up and down....just keep it in that range......going up and down is good for them.......they dont need any extra nutrients if you do this......they will get a little of everything......if your mix is for orchids and balanced..........your done.
Oh my I wish Roger had this chart when he was trying to explain this. And yes he gives the source of the information. I bet you know that. He is how I found you. I need to thank him for it.
........I like the tech part....and Roger is a greenhouse guy...........Im teaching him a few little things.......and he is teaching me a lot....lol
Hi Rick, great video. can I use sodium bisulphate for ph down. Is it safe for my plants. I have it for my pool
very good info. I am getting a ph tester today. I moved 5 years ago from the country where I
used well water, now I use city water. I can see my orchids are not as happy as they were. with the yellowing leaves. I thought it was the lack of something. So now I am thinking it is calcium . do you think adding in some calcium nitrate would be a good idea. I use DYNA-GRO orchid pro
7-8-6 . and what do you think about Superthrive or Kelpmax . and I was thinking about using some of Jacks orchid special 30-10-10 just to change my fertilizer from time to time. I am not sure about the MSU
Fertilizer using city water. now i do let the water stand for a day or 2 to get out the chlorine.
Laura.....1st thanks for watching, and commenting..........what your using is probably fine.......check the ingredients in your mix before adding supplements..........usually the element is present but ph is off so it cant absorb it.....if that makes sense....before you change mixes, and spend money on supplements...........swing the ph of the water and let the plant absorb a more varied diet......most issues will correct themselves.........super thrive is good stuff.....but with orchids, has been know to cause issues......B vitamin, growth acid concentrates....
Wow I learnt something... you took the mysticism out of pH. I'm going to get myself a pH meter. Any suggestions?
....I use Oakton, just my preference.....cheap is fine and some calibration fluid...Thank you very much....
Thanks Rick, i'll check it out
Ok so I just found your channel and may I say Sir...you know your stuff. Thank you for informing video and very well put vid also. May I ask, clarify:once the fertiliser has been added , do you then add PH up/down?
……..good question......yes,... after everything is mixed......then see if the PH needs adjusting...….as long as your in the 6's for ph...…...its fine.....
Thanks for this video! I sometimes water my orchids with tap water, sometimes with distilled/condensed water, because I figure it's good for them to have a little variety there. Are you going to do one on how the ph of media matters too? My media is slightly acidic (5.6) but my tap water is slightly alkaline (avg 7.8)
......actually my next one was going to be on water and water quality for orchids....should explain it, and address those concerns...thank for the comments.......love questions..
Thanks! I enjoy your videos.
Rick, Thank thank thank so very much.I got it. I should put more effort in learning to your concept for I killed five Phals this month ☹️. I love your soup analogy 😆😆 it so cool , now it stuck on my brain. Thank too for the chart.
You are great teacher.
Take care and best regard to Jan.Keep the positive attitude. You & Jan is always in my prayers.
God is faithful
hi Rick, i use a fertiliser called Duett A&B and Aquasol each week in my watering + they get a slight foliar feed at the same time...after submerging the pots.... for phals/ brassias/omcids etc... can you tell me if this is ok...
......not familiar with the Duett nutrient....but Aquasol, I've seen used commercially, but no experience....it is a urea base N....so in high heat it may burn....and at low temps it wont feed well and can burn also......in good weather.....should be ok....I would go real light, to prevent build up....i like that it has good amount of mag in it.....feeding wet roots is best way to prevent burns...your doing well.
Hi Rick
Not to be redundant, but the chart you showed where 5.8 was, the magnesium and the calcium absorbed either right on 5.8 and above or right on 5.8 and below. So is this why you feed magnesium and calcium separately? This would make sense, since both of these absorb the best at opposite ends of the scale. Another question. I did watch a young woman on RUclips who has great luck with her orchids. She had only Phals. But this is where I got the idea of egg shells crushed on top of the orchid. Then I looked up the minerals in egg shells and they have calcium, magnesium and a host of other minerals, which I found very fascinating. The one question who be, do you know anything about the absorbency of eggs shells regarding Ph?
Hi Rick, do we count bark media mix as soilmor hydroponic. I could not decide what should be PH for my orchids which are in bark mix
Hi Rich, it is me again. I have been watching this video over and over and over again. Sorry but I donot understand some of the issues. For example, let say I have used hydroponic solution for fixing the ph to 5.8. Then What happens if I add fertiliser to this water. Does my ph goes up or down or stay the same. How should I manage to fix my ph at 5.8? Let say I could not manage to fix it, and when and which elements are missing to get more spider mits and melly bugs ect? Mg and ca? Please please make more videos on that issue. What happens if K missing or Ca missing or Mg missing please 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
.....bark is just media, just something to anchor the plant......nether hydroponic or soil.......however orchids grow hydroponically in their ph ranges and feeding......as for mixing nutrients......most orchid mixes will drop the ph of your water......you need to start with water near the 6.7 -7.0 mark......so when the fertilizer is added it will drop down to 5.8-6.2.....which is fine for feeding...it doesn't need to be at 5.8 all the time......just let it swing...one time 6.5....next time 5.9....etc.....they will get a more varied diet that way.....
plants with a healthy cell structure are less likely to have bugs, mites, etc.....all the minerals add to good cell structure......but calcium and Phos are 2 main ones.....I will do some more fertilizer videos to answer these questions better.........thank you.......excellent questions...
Rick L hi Rick thank you ever so much for your answer. I will be so happy to watch more videos to learn more on that subject. Regards 💞🙋🏻
Sold ! I've been getting some pale patches on a few orchids and although I was sure it was either magnesium or calcium (or both) deficiency, I couldn't work out which. My RO water starts with a PH of 7.0. Because I've been feeding at lower levels this year, the 'fertiliser' is weaker and therefore not lowering the PH as much so it's not getting down low enough for the calcium to kick in. I need to alternate with how I feed now which gets everything into the plants except the calcium and then adjust the PH down every other time to get the calcium absorbed. I just need something to do that (which I don't have at the moment). Thanks for this - when I looked into all this, I wish I'd found that chart !!! Just proves that it doesn't have to be complicated.
Roger Frampton nitrogen fertilizer? will it add some more acidity?
Marcy *** Yes but the point is that I've been feeding at lower levels this year so my PH hasn't been dropping as much as it would with higher levels so I've probably been restricting the Calcium uptake.
Marcy, and not to butt in.....the entire orchid mix Roger uses naturally because of its composition will drop the mix to around 6.0+/-....Nitrogen on its own wont drop ph.....but if you feed at lower levels....the mix isnt strong enough ...may only drop too 6.5...so he would miss some elements...
glad it triggered something Roger, really appreciate the feedback...
So after watching this weeks ago had to watch it again and then I had to call you some scientists I am👉👵👈
lol.....
Thank you for this very informative video! I recently found out about the importance of pH, and bought myself a pH meter, just to find out that I was having too high pH, and my orchids didn't get their proper nutrients this summer. Since this year I converted to proper sh, I've been using small dosages of feed, and of course the pH was affected. Last year, though, I used high amount of fertilizer, and didn't see a problem...
I ordered now some proper hidroponic ph down, thanks to you!
What do you think about using products that contain seaweed or fish mix, as an additional feeding product? I don't refer to foliar feed, but just adding those things at the roots, as a normal feeding, together with proper fertilizer?
so happy to see you here......Im a big fan of your shows....incredible work you have done with Fusarium and WC.........I love the kelp or seaweed feeds........but they can push your potassium(k) to high levels when fed to roots......I prefer to deliver that in foliar sprays........even though its one of the most important elements.....K can block a lot of other elements when it collects....a good balanced (thats key) fertilizer will feed fine......if you swing the ph they will get some of everything....
Rick L Unfortunately, here in Romania I can't find any balanced fertilizer, not in EU. And ordering from USA is out of my reach, as Amazon asks about 25$ just for shipping. Although I haven't been feeding in the recommended dosages with correct pH, like...never, my orchids show no bad signs. Can't understand why, but I am happy. Maybe cuz I also use slow release fertilizer too...
Can't wait to see your video about water :D
I would like to try river rocks in sh too, maybe after my exams...or next spring:)) I would love my orchids not to get knocked over during bad storms...
Hi Rick, I am adding Epsom salt to my Focus Grow fertilizer, I have a separate calcium fertilizer can I add it to the epsom salt and focus grow fertilizer or should I feed my Calcium separately? Thanks.
.Merlin, thanks for watching.......I always feed Ca separately....some dont, but it can mix odd sometimes....if its Calmag or Cal nit....I feed alone...
cal-mag is a combo.....its fine in a premix...wanted to clarify....
Rick do you have any cattleyas on lava rock? Mine seem to be losing the green tips so im wondering if i need to switch them to pea gravel or bark
........I have many in lava rock........the media isnt the issue.......what do you mean loosing green tips........are they turning yellow?.......or black on ends?......
@@rickl.orchids they are turning black ends, when i purchased them they had green tips but now black, i may not be watering enough or feeding
Well im sure it can be a matter of several different things
Do you have a link to the chart you used in the video?
This is makes so much sense. You're a fantastic teacher. Thank you and keep it coming.
hi Rick.. can you send a link to this chart please...
Chris....google "Hydroponic ph chart".......apparently the link I showed is connected to a Cannabis site..as are a lot of them.....not that's there anything wrong with that.....but don't want to spring that on a unsuspecting viewer...the chart will be there....it will show it along with several others
Why does pH matter if I am just using the water for flushing (I.e., ordinary watering)? I can understand why dissolved solids are important, but not pH in this situation.
....great question.........in principal I agree.....and as long as you know your beginning ph ranges.......your fine......but plenty of tap water in the mid to high 7's and I wont use it for flushing....I prefer to keep the ph range in the same as the plant would get in nature....mid to upper 6's.......for most roots not an issue.......but for fine roots it can burn...even with low dissolved solids........and exceptions to every rule.......but if your use to keeping it in the correct range......than less likely to have a screw up..
Hi Rick, I use citric acid if I need to lower the pH, which is rarely as my rainwater (and apparently all over Australia ) has a pH of 5.5. So if necessary after I add fertiliser I use pH up to get it to 5.8. Also, an older grower told me I told get some water, test the pH, then pour it through my media (bark) and see what the pH is.. Any comments?
Michael...thanks for watching.....great question.....what he is saying is check your run off......if you take some water...check ph.....lets say its 7.0.....then pour it thru your plant pot.....and collect the run off.....then check the ph again....it will tell you how acidic or alkaline your root mass is .....you can also check to see how much residual ppm your holding back.......good stuff, and a great way to monitor your plants......I do it all the time...always know your base #'s.....before adding anything. I've read that a lot of growers over there use limestone to grow in because of the acidic water.......
Thanks Rick. I have always wondered if the bark eventually takes on the pH of the fertiliser that I use (presuming it has not broken down). I use NZ bark. Leca is good but as we grow outside all year here, the winter can make the roots too cold in rocks, pebbles, leca etc. I lost a stack of phallies in a winter when i had them in scoria
all good points...I need to read up on your climate just out of curiosity.....I thought it was more tropical......most bark, of any type will hold on to nutrients....not so much the Nutrient ph....usually a lot lower........biggest thing about bark is.....after the 1st time it gets wet....it starts breaking down, and at that point the bacteria that breaks it down eat a lot of N.....they will get it from somewhere..they can starve a plant if you dont feed extra.....and as it breaks down the ph lowers.........adding some Dol Lime to your water or using a higher ph will compensate.....
I am on the Sunshine Coast, SE Queensland. We have a wet season and a dry season (now). Nights can be a low as 6 Celsius and days up to 27 C. Summers are humid and maybe lows of 20 at night and max maybe 30.
I was given a bum steer in the pH for bark. The bloke who told me obviously didnt realise the chart was for soil.
interesting Michael.....thanks..... yeah soil chart will mess things up.
What is the PH sweet spot for African Violets?
a great question Carl.........Violets like it around 6.5.....they are acidic loving plants, and have absorption ranges like orchids
i noticed in your other Ph video on the meter you were using products by GEneral Hydroponics..i started using their products..maxi grow..maxi bloom about a year ago thanks to my buddy Mike Brodzick the growing grunt..anyway i have had phenomenal results due to that product...i haven't even looked at the nutrient content on the back..just used it solely based on his results..switched from MSU because it wasn't doing shit for me...i am new to Ph...really just starting measuring it after 30+ years due to Roger and since i have started using rain water...well still use the hose..anyway happy growing
..........MSU is fine, as is other salts......but some of those straight up nitrates with those micros are the bomb....super potent and like candy to a plant......I'm same way, mix my own....but caution with ppms...get that ph dialed in and you be cutting vines trying to get to the coffee maker....
How about if i use acidic acid to down ph and sodium hydroxide to up pH level instead buying ph up & down solutions from amazon.?
…….those are fine, in tiny amounts.....use caution...…..I prefer to use kelp/seaweed to lower ph and baking soda to raise it...…..as long as your ph is in the 6's...….your fine for feeding orchids..
Where can I get the availability chart from?
....just google hydroponic PH chart....
Am I supposed to mix the PH liquid in distilled water and then feed it to my Orchids?
Jamelle, not sure if I understand the question?
Rick L the PH Up and PH Down liquid that you buy in stores.
......sorry....yes, you can use it to adjust the ph.....
Does anyone know what. Happened to Rick l Tex me let me know
It all depends on the type of fertilizer you use and the alkalinity of your water source. Fine tuning the ph of your nutrient solution can be a good thing, specially in hydroponics, but knowing the chemical reaction that takes place in the root zone is much more important for plants grown in containers with traditional media. For example phals grown in sphagnum moss can have a root ph of 4 or even lower without any nutrient issues, while phals grown in orchiata bark (which is treated to have some buffering capacity) can also have a runoff within 4-5 ph range with no issues.
The best thing you can do is test your water alkalinity and ask for an advice by a professional, and if you want to dig deeper read this:
staugorchidsociety.org/PDF/ChoosingYourFertilizerBasedonYourWaterQualitybySueBottom.pdf
Love your videos
Regards
D
um I wish you showed us how to adjust the ph instead of just telling us to adjust the ph...
......good question......adjusting the ph is needed if your water is outside of the acceptable range......the nutrients are designed to lower the ph of the mix.......if your beginning water is around 6.5 to 7.5..........you should be fine with out adjusting it.........if I need to drop the ph of my mix......i use kelp/seaweed..a few drops per gallon.....citric acid as well as PH down supplements can drop it and be used also.
Rick L. Orchids hi Rick, thanks for responding, you are the only one that responded to my questions :) I haven’t realized you have a separate video on how to do it. I’ve watched many videos and yours is the only one that made sense to me especially that you showed how to mix your own.
thank you again......answering questions and discussing growing with others is the best part of Utube......at least to me it is.....happy to assist anytime I can....
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