Just be aware that while HCL is more hazardous than vinegar due to corrosiveness, fuming, etc. Both solutions will become more toxic as more metal is put into solution. Regardless of whether you're only using vinegar it's still wise to wear gloves and avoid contact with the solution. Treat all stripping and plating solutions as though they contain high levels of toxic heavy metals.
Good video. I agree the acetone wash is sufficient. Degreasers sometimes leave a film. Curious if you have any experience plating internal threads using a thread insert or plug to protect threads from coating buildup? I have a bronze part that gets black zinc, it's usually just the coating buildup, but i have had some employees complain it feels like the thread is cross-threaded. i explain the coating process, but wondering if it is worth my time to just plug these with a 1" x 8-32 slotted thread insert/plug.
you may use NaOH instead of HCL, it strip the ols zinc plating and degreasing the parts very well, follow by a good water rince and an acid dip (citric) to neutralize NaOH and etch the part for good plating adhesion. you must passivate zinc plating, or it will corode quickly. yellow hexavalent, or blue trivalent chromium passivate is the way.
Does zinc plating use line of sight method? Do you have to flip the bolt around a bunch of times in order to get an even coating? I've been experimenting with plating on bolts and mine don't get an even coat.
The tank needs to have good circulation. I use a little fish tank pump to move the solution around non stop. I haven’t had issues with an uneven plate!
the deplating process is the oposite of plating, meaning the part to deplate is conected to anode, instead of cathode in case of plating. in general, sulfuric acid is use as an electrolyte.
@kylevara how does the plating hold up? It doesn't come off when you tighten the bolts down does it? I restore a lot of dirt bikes, I would really like to zinc plate and nickel plate (nickel looks kind of like titanium). I vapor hone and dry sand blast and got to coat any steel in a oil or else it will rust in front of your eyes, that's why I want to plate.
No,it does not if you imerge the part with electricity already on. the reduction potential at the cathode doesn't' allow base metal disolve into the electrolyte, even if the ph is acid.
Your parts are way too shiny for zinc since zing has a dark grey natural look I am pretty sure that is not just zinc in the solutuon, probably whitener and other additives. I do my electro plating the old fashioned way. Great content!
Good day sir, may i ask hows the bolt now? How long does the bolts begin to rust again?
I fond this Out to a year ago works very good i nickel plat every thing
Solid advice; especially regarding muriatic acid. That stuff is serious. I will be setting up a plating rig soon.
You could use vinegar instead of muratic acid. Just takes longer to work than mutatic acid. But, it's non toxic...
Just be aware that while HCL is more hazardous than vinegar due to corrosiveness, fuming, etc.
Both solutions will become more toxic as more metal is put into solution.
Regardless of whether you're only using vinegar it's still wise to wear gloves and avoid contact with the solution.
Treat all stripping and plating solutions as though they contain high levels of toxic heavy metals.
I prefer citric acid. It's cheap to buy powdered citric acid, very satisfying to see it bubbling away. Plus it doesn't stink out your workshop!
Thanks Kyle great video
I have copper plated and wet sanded prior, in order to fill pits in emblems.
Bro you’re Legend thank you so much
Love these kinds of vids - thanks so much!
Good video. I agree the acetone wash is sufficient. Degreasers sometimes leave a film. Curious if you have any experience plating internal threads using a thread insert or plug to protect threads from coating buildup? I have a bronze part that gets black zinc, it's usually just the coating buildup, but i have had some employees complain it feels like the thread is cross-threaded. i explain the coating process, but wondering if it is worth my time to just plug these with a 1" x 8-32 slotted thread insert/plug.
Awesome and very succinct video! A great incentive to get started.
Thanks Rob! I appreciate it
you may use NaOH instead of HCL, it strip the ols zinc plating and degreasing the parts very well, follow by a good water rince and an acid dip (citric) to neutralize NaOH and etch the part for good plating adhesion.
you must passivate zinc plating, or it will corode quickly. yellow hexavalent, or blue trivalent chromium passivate is the way.
Great video.
Dude… awesome
Great video. Do you know a technique for a yellow/gold zinc finish?
bichromate passivation for yellow, with hexavalent chromium. trivalent chromium for blue passivate
Does zinc plating use line of sight method? Do you have to flip the bolt around a bunch of times in order to get an even coating? I've been experimenting with plating on bolts and mine don't get an even coat.
The tank needs to have good circulation. I use a little fish tank pump to move the solution around non stop. I haven’t had issues with an uneven plate!
Whats in the tank though……..
I use Epsom salts with white vinegar...I litre of distilled vinegar to 100g of Epsom salts..the Caswell kit will have it's own recipe
So what's in the tank.. for beginners? Thats it? But thanks for the video helps a lot.
Hey Kyle, a similar process is used for removing chrome plating, is that something you've experimented with too?
the deplating process is the oposite of plating, meaning the part to deplate is conected to anode, instead of cathode in case of plating. in general, sulfuric acid is use as an electrolyte.
What solution is in the tank?
COPYCAD Kit from Caswell
@kylevara how does the plating hold up? It doesn't come off when you tighten the bolts down does it? I restore a lot of dirt bikes, I would really like to zinc plate and nickel plate (nickel looks kind of like titanium). I vapor hone and dry sand blast and got to coat any steel in a oil or else it will rust in front of your eyes, that's why I want to plate.
Great vid Kyle! Your link is for the chrome kit - is this right or should I consider the zinc kit that is also available?
John, it is the copycad kit! It is a modified Zinc Kit.
@@kylevaragood job .👍
how to remove heavy oil and grease with chemical, I use higher concentration sulfuric acid,, and it destroys parts,
Gasoline or mineral spirit.
Can I pay for your services and send you some hardware to plate for me!?
if you use copper wire to hang your parts, you are contaminating your fluid...
No,it does not if you imerge the part with electricity already on. the reduction potential at the cathode doesn't' allow base metal disolve into the electrolyte, even if the ph is acid.
Your parts are way too shiny for zinc since zing has a dark grey natural look I am pretty sure that is not just zinc in the solutuon, probably whitener and other additives.
I do my electro plating the old fashioned way.
Great content!
Did you not watch the video lol
There is a brightener added to the solution. It comes in the caswell kit!
@@LCustomslegit he said it right in the video 😂😂😂