I got interested at the tail end of being able to buy a decent historical anvil, but it still would have run me $300 for a good one and I didn't have that kind of money, and it was the 90s and that was like 10 tanks of gas for my van. Which makes me angry because today if I spent the equivalent of 10 tanks of gas for my van on an anvil I could almost get a brand new Refflinghaus. We all wished there was a cheaper option back then which is why the ASO caught on. I'm glad you found an actual use for them, BTW.
I was impressed that anvil took that much abuse and didn't end up with more damage. Real impressed the horn didn't lose at least the tip. For the money, I can't see how you could go wrong unless you get a lemon. You can pay way more for an anvil half that size and just a miss/ face strike with a one pound claw hammer will leave a dent, a couple summers ago summer I spend an hour or two with an angle grinder taking out such dents form such an anvil, though for small jobs, even it will do.
What a waste! I see no point in stress testing, enough force will break anything. You can shatter diamonds with enough force,so what? You just said that the things you did is not typical use,so nobody would do this. It proves nothing.
@@herscheltaylor7919 Actually, it DOES prove something - that these are not simply cheap junk sold as an 'anvil'. Stress testing is a real and valid exercise, within limits. It's not about "WILL this break" but more about "What will it take to MAKE this break". Being able to demonstrate that the anvil holds up to conditions in excess of what it should *ever* be put through in normal use, gives people the knowledge and confidence to invest in it for themselves. It definitively tells people whether or not they can expect it to do the job, or if it is going to fail on them after just a short time and be a waste of their hard earned money.
@@ChristCenteredIronworks just makes how well your sample of a cheap Vevor anvil held up more impressive. I have one of the Doyle anvils that I got a couple of months ago as my cheap starter anvil and am having fun starting some light forging with it and a 2 burner Mr Volcano forge.
I think you'd struggle to get hardening on this type of anvil all the way through, just being its probably not a complicated alloy and it'll be water quenched almost for sure given the depth of the hardening. If it was more akin to a tool-steel with a heap of moly and other metals into the alloy for a slower oil quench it'd be much deeper hardening- but that also passes onto he customer as well in terms of having to get an expensive alloy brewed up on demand, the heat treating process would need to be a lot more controlled and to be honest- It's overkill for a 66lb anvil to need that kind of engineering to go into it Like you said, under normal use and with just one bloke with a hammer even beating colder metals on its face 'really hard', it'd stand up just fine for longer than most people's shoulder and elbow joints will hold out! So its not in the same league as big industrial die-presses or shears that get 50 or 500t behind them in squashing force. I'm not a blacksmith and before anyone throws rocks at me, I am I knife maker who also makes his own hammers, swage blocks, hold-fasts and other stuff for one of the older blue vevor 66lb anvils. At the time I bought it a couple of years ago it was $150 Australian to get it delivered to my door out in bumblecreek nowhereville, the alternative would have been a $500 anvil and about 200 in shipping or me driving a day there, a day back and about 200 in fuel plus lost income being away for two days. Would the 500 anvil be a 'better' anvil? No it isn't, from an engineering and materials science perspective its better. From a time management, being fit for purpose and cost the 150 vevor anvil was actually the better anvil, the world doesn't run on necessarily the best. It sadly runs on time and money, both of which are in some ways more elusive a quality when you're running a business
Yup! A good test! I've been finding myself looking more & more at Vevor's web site. Thinking about their bigger euro style anvil. The 132lbs one... Kind of wondering how that base would be... What's your thoughts, Roy? By the way, Great video!
Thanks Roy, Nice explanation. I was getting into the tension/compression plane through the tail - the primary failure plane is vertical through the hardy hole cross section - typical of a beam in bending flexure - but there is a horizontal crack from some mid point of that failure into the body indicating a shearing line of force between the top tension area and bottom compression area. Well, at least that is what I think - not a mechanical or materials engineer.
Love the videos i just got the vevor 110lb in the mail today got here in 2 days for 150 shipped cant beat that and it was shipped in a nice little crate
Thank you very much for this analysis!
I got interested at the tail end of being able to buy a decent historical anvil, but it still would have run me $300 for a good one and I didn't have that kind of money, and it was the 90s and that was like 10 tanks of gas for my van. Which makes me angry because today if I spent the equivalent of 10 tanks of gas for my van on an anvil I could almost get a brand new Refflinghaus.
We all wished there was a cheaper option back then which is why the ASO caught on. I'm glad you found an actual use for them, BTW.
Thank you for sharing 😊
Now try a Holland Anvil. They are hardened all the way through.
I was impressed that anvil took that much abuse and didn't end up with more damage. Real impressed the horn didn't lose at least the tip. For the money, I can't see how you could go wrong unless you get a lemon. You can pay way more for an anvil half that size and just a miss/ face strike with a one pound claw hammer will leave a dent, a couple summers ago summer I spend an hour or two with an angle grinder taking out such dents form such an anvil, though for small jobs, even it will do.
Your very right 👍 no anvil I have ever used would hold up any better than this one did and for the money who could go wrong?
What a waste! I see no point in stress testing, enough force will break anything. You can shatter diamonds with enough force,so what? You just said that the things you did is not typical use,so nobody would do this. It proves nothing.
@@herscheltaylor7919 Actually, it DOES prove something - that these are not simply cheap junk sold as an 'anvil'. Stress testing is a real and valid exercise, within limits. It's not about "WILL this break" but more about "What will it take to MAKE this break". Being able to demonstrate that the anvil holds up to conditions in excess of what it should *ever* be put through in normal use, gives people the knowledge and confidence to invest in it for themselves. It definitively tells people whether or not they can expect it to do the job, or if it is going to fail on them after just a short time and be a waste of their hard earned money.
A Holland anvil test would be great. It’d be an expensive test though.
I'm hoping to test one in the same weight class here soon 😉
Weren't the sledges 10lbs and 16lbs, not 6 and 12?
Yes you're correct 💯
@@ChristCenteredIronworks just makes how well your sample of a cheap Vevor anvil held up more impressive. I have one of the Doyle anvils that I got a couple of months ago as my cheap starter anvil and am having fun starting some light forging with it and a 2 burner Mr Volcano forge.
Very informative about what you found and think about what happened with this anvil thank you for sharing your knowledge and thoughts Roy
My pleasure thank you for watching
I'm guessing
That testing Olga is out of the question😉
Fun stuff, great video.
Glad you enjoyed it thank you brother for stopping by
I think you'd struggle to get hardening on this type of anvil all the way through, just being its probably not a complicated alloy and it'll be water quenched almost for sure given the depth of the hardening. If it was more akin to a tool-steel with a heap of moly and other metals into the alloy for a slower oil quench it'd be much deeper hardening- but that also passes onto he customer as well in terms of having to get an expensive alloy brewed up on demand, the heat treating process would need to be a lot more controlled and to be honest-
It's overkill for a 66lb anvil to need that kind of engineering to go into it
Like you said, under normal use and with just one bloke with a hammer even beating colder metals on its face 'really hard', it'd stand up just fine for longer than most people's shoulder and elbow joints will hold out! So its not in the same league as big industrial die-presses or shears that get 50 or 500t behind them in squashing force. I'm not a blacksmith and before anyone throws rocks at me, I am I knife maker who also makes his own hammers, swage blocks, hold-fasts and other stuff for one of the older blue vevor 66lb anvils. At the time I bought it a couple of years ago it was $150 Australian to get it delivered to my door out in bumblecreek nowhereville, the alternative would have been a $500 anvil and about 200 in shipping or me driving a day there, a day back and about 200 in fuel plus lost income being away for two days.
Would the 500 anvil be a 'better' anvil?
No it isn't, from an engineering and materials science perspective its better. From a time management, being fit for purpose and cost the 150 vevor anvil was actually the better anvil, the world doesn't run on necessarily the best. It sadly runs on time and money, both of which are in some ways more elusive a quality when you're running a business
Comment respectfully? What? We been rude and crude all this time, why change now?😛😁🤣
Yup! A good test! I've been finding myself looking more & more at Vevor's web site. Thinking about their bigger euro style anvil. The 132lbs one... Kind of wondering how that base would be... What's your thoughts, Roy? By the way, Great video!
As a control, you should try this on Big Bertha... then we'd see a high quality anvil for a comparison.
6 and 12 lb? Thought you said 10 and 12 in the destruction video.
Thanks Roy, Nice explanation.
I was getting into the tension/compression plane through the tail - the primary failure plane is vertical through the hardy hole cross section - typical of a beam in bending flexure - but there is a horizontal crack from some mid point of that failure into the body indicating a shearing line of force between the top tension area and bottom compression area.
Well, at least that is what I think - not a mechanical or materials engineer.
Hi Roy !Thank you for showing !Keep it up !Greeting Bulats forge from germany 😊🤙
Thank you too!
Love the videos i just got the vevor 110lb in the mail today got here in 2 days for 150 shipped cant beat that and it was shipped in a nice little crate
Would love to see how these surface hardened anvils stand up to forging some tool steel while making punches and chisels and stuff.
Good honest review with good info. Thanks Roy, take care an God bless.
I really like your deep explanation. Thanks for the video.
“Turds for anvils” gave me a very funny mental image 😂
What's Snow?
Very well done!!