RICK OWENS SS21MENS - PHLEGETHON

PHLEGETHON IS ONE OF THE RIVERS IN THE INFERNO DESCRIBED IN DANTE’S DIVINE COMEDY, NOT QUITE THE CENTER OF HELL BUT ON THE WAY THERE.
ROMANTICIZING DOOM HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN ADOLESCENT MOOD BUT IT’S A CLASSIC WAY TO CONFRONT FEAR AND INSTABILITY - HOPE FOR THE BEST BUT PLAN FOR THE WORST.
MY LAST FALL RUNWAY SHOULDER FREAK OUT WASN’T ABOUT POWER, IT WAS ABOUT DEFIANCE - DEFIANCE IN THE FACE OF THREAT. THOSE SHOULDERS REAPPEAR IN THIS SPRING COLLECTION ON COATS AND JKTS WITH THE SLEEVES RIPPED OFF, LEAVING A RAW ARMHOLE WITH REMNANTS OF WHITE LININGS AS A RIOT CORSAGE.
BLACK GRAIN DE POUDRE TAILORING IS TRACED WITH WHITE STITCHED LEVEL LINES - SINGLE DECISIVE LINES TO SUGGEST ORDER AND REASON; AND GEOMETRIC SATIN CIPHERS HAVE BEEN INLAYED INTO LAPELS.
TRAPUNTO SHOULDER PATCHES ARE THE INFLUENCE OF MY LARRY LEGASPI RESEARCH WHILE COMPILING A BOOK ON HIM RELEASED LAST YEAR. THESE PATCHES ARE APPLIQUED IN PERGAMENA LEATHER FROM MOTTA ALFREDO - THE LEATHER USED FOR OUR FIRST ITALIAN-PRODUCED COLLECTION 18 YEARS AGO.
MOST OF THE LEATHERS USED IN THIS COLLECTION ARE DOUBLE-FACED WITH MINIMAL, UNLINED CONSTRUCTION, INCLUDING A 0.8MM THICK NEAPOLITAN-PRODUCED JUICY DOUBLE-FACED LEATHER WE CALL DOUBLE BUTTER.
WE DID A NEAPOLITAN GELATO DÉGRADÉ PRINT ON CHIFFON AND CRÊPE, EXTENDING IT TO KNITS. THESE KNITS DOUBLE UP, PEEL UP AND DOWN LIKE A BANANA, COVERING OR EXPOSING AT WILL.
A GROUP OF KNITS AND SWIMWEAR HAS BEEN DEVELOPED FROM THE MEMBRANE T-SHIRTS OF OUR SPRING SUMMER 18 ‘DIRT’ COLLECTION AND ANOTHER KNIT STORY OF MESH TANKS ORIGINATES FROM THE MASKS USED IN FW12 ‘MOUNTAIN’.
JKTS AND SHORTS ARE PRESENTED IN STRETCH DENIM SURFACED WITH PAILLETTES CUSTOM MADE FOR US FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC.
RECYCLED PLASTIC IS ALSO USED IN OUR SHOES AND RAINCOATS. THERE IS SOME DEBATE IN OUR STUDIO WHETHER THE USE OF RECYCLED PLASTIC GLORIFIES USING A TOXIC MATERIAL THAT THERE ARE OTHER OPTIONS FOR - OR - FINDING A WAY TO REUSE SOMETHING THAT ALREADY EXISTS…
TO COUNTERBALANCE THE HEFT OF OUR SHOULDERS, WE INTRODUCE A BOZO BALLAST BOOT SHAPE WITH OUR BAUHAUS ZIPPED CARGO POCKET.