Just out of curiosity how much juice do that charger pull out of the wall while it's charging 70-75 amps to the battery? Have you measured that yet? Because I'm wondering if my little 15 amp outlet is going to work> Thanks
I would love to have a big enough budget to have 16 of these batteries in a 4s4p configuration and 15kw to 20kw of solar on my roof with one of those awesome 12Kw all in one Sol Ark inverter systems or maybe a big enough Victron system to handle the whole house and the 240v split phase stuff. It would be magical to produce more energy than my whole house uses per day, but my dream 20kw solar system and the 82Kwh of Lifepo4 batteries, plus inverters/solar charge controllers, etc, would end up being a $50,000 system. Its tough to imagine spending $50k on solar and batteries when my house isn't that big and probably doesn't need that amount of solar, but I want enough battery power to get me through a few days of winter with snow in the northeast
Great review, The stuff on the chips is "Thermally Conductive Adhesive Transfer Tape" or thermal tape. You see it a lot in the PC world for cooling high speed ram.
just bought 2 100A 12V for my camper i'm so damn happy 1 month in just 120-140w on my roof & im charged up in no time & man they hold power all night, now i have to say after 2/h years in my camper i see how much I would love to have this 1 batt! With some work I could make it fit but it would not be easy. If I had just bought the camper this week I would for certain go for some extra construction & go for 1 of these, the big battery I think is the way to go!
I don’t understand how they dissipate the heat generated by the BMS in a sealed environment. Would like to see a test where you run a full 250A load and see how long it lasts.
@@LithiumSolar I can’t see how it couldn’t fail. High current = a lot of heat, heat sinks need to cool down, impossible in a closed sealed environment especially without a fan. I’m an electronic technician, and the numbers don’t compute. Feel free to contact me.
Totaly agree it would go thermal go into protection mode shut down ok run micro wave heat some food etc but if you were running muliple electric grills say in mobile food van not a chance
Ive always been a raw cells kind of guy because it just works out so much cheaper but if the price falls a bit further I might end up going this way so could just buy an all in one mpp solar charger/inverter, plug it all together and Im done. These sealed units are still at least 30% more expensive than raw cells but are obviously more hassle to build a set up...I will have to consider them as an option for my next build though.
@@daveyd0071hello, I was wondering how your DIY system is working now that it has been about a year? I used to research this stuff years ago, but haven’t recently…. What brands are recommended now for the cells? For the BMS? The last time I was looking t this stuff, CALB was recommended. Thanks
The thermal pads are called exactly what you called them. They are mostly used on low-power portable device processors or power-delivery elements such as MOSFETS (basically a power-delivery switch) on GPUs and sometimes on computer motherboards that don't get quite hot enough to warrant their own active cooling system - The pads will usually be touching the cooling plate of the part that needs the most cooling. I'd guess that the fact that they've used them here is a sign that this is a quality product. Cheaper consumer computing hardware wouldn't generally have these pads. Thanks for the video. You can probbaly guess from the comment why I'm watching your very informative video. Panels and portable power station first. Now it's time for the real deal!
With this being one of the first BMS rated at 250A on the market, in this form factor, I would like to pose a question regarding the potentially undersized pair of 6 gauge conductors bridging (BMS > two 6 gauge copper conductors > m8 Epoxy Terminals) to support 500A Peak load for 55 seconds. This question relates to a use case of one Power Queen 12.8V 410A battery in an RV that may require a full 500A draw for the rated 55 seconds, permitted by the VIP 250A BMS specifications. Question: Would the set of two 6 gauge copper conductors, that create the bridge between the 250A continuous BMS (500A Peak) and the m8 epoxy terminals, be sufficient to support a 500A Peak load for 55 seconds, while not becoming the fuse (read: fire hazard)? For example: On the Power Queen 12.8V 410Ah battery, between the 250A BMS and m8 epoxy terminal connections, there are two 6 gauge copper conductors. However, at the provided conductor length, a single 6 gauge copper conductor affords a maximum rating of 65A @ 75°C (167°F) for a continuous 12V load. Ampacity of a 6 gauge copper conductor, at an ambient temperature of 75°C (167°F) = 65A 6 gauge copper conductor: Max. Amp Load (Accounting For 80% NEC Rule) = 65A Ampacity × 0.8 = 52 Amps or 624 Watts continuous load. I (Amps) × V (Volts) = P (Watts) 52A x 12V = 624W 4/0 AWG (0000) gauge wire can handle the largest amount of current of any AWG gauge wire. At 75°C, the 4/0 copper wire ampacity is 230 amp contiuous load (with 195 amps and 260 amps at 60°C and 90°C temperature, respectively. VIP 250A BMS: However, the VIP 250A continuous BMS permits a 500A Peak load for 55 seconds, producing: I (Amps) × V (Volts) = P (Watts) 500A x 12V = 6000W or I (Amps) = P (Watts) / 12V 500A = 6000W / 12V It would appear the two 6 gauge copper conductors that create the bridge between the VIP 250A BMS and the epoxy m8 terminals would likely become the fuse, thus requiring a more appropriately sized gauge conductor (read: 4/0, 0000) to create the bridge between the 250A BMS and m8 epoxy terminal connections.
I thought it said 5 seconds rated. You are 100% correct though. I just spec-ed out a wire for a Walmart inverter I want to install in my car. I was a little concerned as 6 gauge wire is a bit thin for the 400 watt continuous & 800 watt peak loads. I figured nothing I am going to use on that inverter will ever draw more than about 300 watts so I am ok. However, 65 amps is right for 6 gauge wire. I suppose a 48 volt pack could run a 2k watt inverter fine, beyond that I would not trust this pack for more than 2x that more than a few seconds. One further thing to consider, length is a huge factor when determining DC resistance and thus current capacity. those wires are 6-18 inches. That may be just enough for 250 amps (but I seriously doubt it). Great catch on the numbers.
Good question. The wires don't spec out to handle the current. Since it's very high current it definitely appears dangerous. I totally missed it myself so thanks for bringing this up.
Its rated at that for a 5 second burst. Overloading for short bursts like that is common in lots of things from battery start chargers to Teslas. It even gives 3200w as the max continuous on the data sheet at 1:38 or so. At 12.8v thats exactly 250A. Its also got a thermal cut off just incase someone can't be bothered to read the instructions.
Really wish you had done a 250 amp draw test to verify that it would maintain that indefinitely and not just as a surge. That high discharge rate is what really makes this attractive to me. Would run one very large inverter or maybe several separate mid-sized inverters at the same time. Lots of versatility if it can actually deliver that 250 amps. I'm glad you did verify its capacity rating at least. Interesting tear down.
I really wanted to test this and was planning to do a follow-up; however, I do not have enough equipment to pull 250A at 12V. I didn't want to spend $300+ on inverters just for a single test.
@@LithiumSolar That's fair enough. I wouldn't do that either and that's why I hoped that you would. LOL Do you or any of your subscribers have any ideas on how to use an automotive starter battery tester or maybe a shunt connected to the precise amount of element wire from an old toaster to create a large load like 250 amps at 12ish volts? I don't make YT content, but my brain is always asking me, "How would I do this or that, if I wanted to?" and I haven't pursued this one yet. Thanks for the content that you did produce.
@@mrhalfstep If 3,200 Watts is what you want to pull all day I would suggest going with a 48V system as I highly doubt there's even a 12V solar charge controller that can pull it off. You might need close to 10K Watts in pv to sustain it on an overcast day at 48V. I have 5900 watts in PV and have been able to sustain my living as a single person on 22.5 KW Hours of lifepo4. I ordered the powerqueen 190AH yesterday and it should hopefully arrive tomorrow to test it on a separate off-grid 12V system. I haven't paid for utility power since I began this endeavor back in 2014.
Between the 81lbs and $1600, no thanks. I'd rather have 4-100ah batteries then if one fails in a year it isn't a huge expense and another month of back problems.
We run our whole house, completely off-grid, on 4 of their 300ah models. 18 months so far and not a single hiccup. How many of what size did YOU buy and are currently using?
Not a fan of the construction. The terminal connections on the sides of the battery are a concern. Also the BMS, internal wire gauge and heat management. I like that it's easy to take apart, except the welded connect among the cells.
Something doesn't quite jive with the 2-#6 leads to the terminals. I'm in the market to purchase lithium batteries for my home, and the Power Queen caught me eye. So I'm glad you opened it up so we as consumers could see. #6 is only rated for 60 Amps, even though the leads are short, I'd be a little skeptical to take it past 125 Amps continuous.
The 60A rating you're referencing is likely from the NEC for home residential wiring? That doesn't apply here. The rating for chassis wiring is significantly higher, not to mention this has an insulation rating of 200C.
@@LithiumSolar On the other side of the coin, I think residential code is 55A for 6AWG at 60C and 75A at 90C. Also, note that when a wire is in an insulated space (which an enclosed plastic battery case probably qualifies as) you need to de-rate the insulation rating of the wire. Regardless of whether NEC applies inside a device or not, the laws of physics which prompted the code, still apply. I'm always skeptical that Chinese wire is AWG rather than just "gauge" or some rough translation of wire sized by mm**2 cross section. How much power dissipation happens in that wire per foot of length at 125A per wire? What temp does the insulation have to reach in order to dissipate that power into the air in the sealed case? If the answer is "well, it depends" as is usually true, let's be generous and assume it's a little under 200C (392F) in the worst normal scenario. How happy are you to know that one end of a copper wire hotter than your oven is bolted to the external terminal, and the other end to a cell terminal? OUCH, 200C is hot! If 250A were for 5 seconds, I'd agree with you. But for continuous operation, I'd want to both do exact engineering calculations, and check the actual temps of the insulation and terminals with a thermocouple before being brave enough to push more than half that current continuously. Anytime you parallel two wires to increase ampacity, you're relying upon the current being exactly equal in each wire, so the length, wire stripping, and connection quality have to be identical, or one wire is carrying more than half of the current. There's a lot going on, lots of potential points/modes of failure. I'm not the most nervous person in the world, but there's no way I'd pull 3200 watts through two 6ga wires in an encloses space, continuously.
I have a VoltX 300A/H battery. I never tested it and put it straight in the back of my car with a DC to DC charger.. Seems good Ava excellent value. I'll be replacing all my 7.2ah AGM batteries and replacing with 4 lithium batteries soon.. I had over 80 of the small ones fur free from a hospital. But they are slowly failing bit by bit but have lasted over 10 years. They were used to start with.. 410ah may be awesome if I can find them
I too am using used 7.2ah sealed UPS batteries (26 of them) that i got free. I am expecting another 30 of them shortly. I will keep using them until they fail, then prob. upgrade like you but on a much smaller scale. I only have a total of 650 watts of panels so my system is very small. Greetings from Jamaica.
I assume the price difference is due to different cells in the 300Ah vs 400Ah. This battery has 8x 206Ah cells. I'm going to guess the 300Ah is comprised of 100Ah cells, not sure.
@@VincentsfamilyCali free shipping for you not for them. Do I really have to explain that the cost of shipping is baked into the price ? You think FedEx and ups are running a charity?
beefy battery but you get more for your money buying just the seperate cells and configure them to your liking. I think the pressure on the cells with just the strips is not good enough - they will tend to bulge over time and loose capacity.
I agree you get more for your money by building your own. Most people though don't have the knowledge, skills, tools, or time to build their own battery. It's good to have quality options like these on the market. I'm not sure I agree regarding the straps though - time will tell for sure.
Lithium iron phosphate cells are usually rated for 3000-5000 full charge/discharge cycles. If you choose to be gentler with the battery and don't discharge below 10% or above 90% you can expect to prolong their life to 5000-7000 cycles without much issue. Also factor in that unlike lead acid which when dead are simply dead LFP batteries degrade capacity. Unless they experience catastrophic internal shorting or other failure they just become less energy dense over time meaning they will remain somewhat usable for potentially decades depending on the case.
$1600 battery and they can't spend the few extra bucks for a low temp cutoff BMS. lol. This feature will continue to be a pricey "perk" they are always too happy (greedy) to charge extra for.
If using that battery I would recommend 4 of them connected to a busbar so each battery delivers 75 amps max. 250 amps on a 206ah cell exceeds 1C which degrades battery life. even 2 or 3 to a busbar would help a lot. Very nice battery all in all. My RV would love 4 of those.
Would like to see charging options for 48 volt lifepower batteries. I have been looking at the Bigbattery 240 volt 50amp charger but no one has done a review that I can find. Thats a big battery great review
AIMS also makes a charger like the one I used in the video for 36/48V batteries. That's what I've been using for my 48V testing. It maxes out at 19A though. I'll have to check out the BigBattery 50A!
Hey, I'm from Ukraine, from Kyiv, and as you know we are suffering of power outage and blackouts because of ruzzian aggression, so I have some exp to share with you. Normaly we have power only 8 hours per day so I installed electricity storage system at my place. 1. The mentioned in video acc is for home use (solar/grid). It has 12.8v and it's wierd. More efficiently to make 48v battery 2. It has 250 A and it's cool. Author has not provided max current load test. This is the most important characteristic. My instance. I use Solis 5 kW invereter + 2 accs of Pylontech US2000C LiFePo4 with the max currect of 50A (short load current is 70 A, sorry don't know the correct terms in En, I hope you get my point). I must admit that 50/70A 48v is too less for home, cuz when I turn on the devices without soft start (is it right? the technology that allows to restrict the start current) or devices that consump 2.5kW+ the batteries goes to safe mode and turns off. And that's really pisses me off. Especially when the boiler is on and my beloved wife turns on the hair drier and then all flat blackouts lol
@@LithiumSolar I have shot you a few FB messages, but I guess you don't check that out any more. Well, I still list the 18650's but really do not push them much. The medical supply biz I started, sells have shot through the roof! Not to mention my gaming company. I would like to speak again and touch base on things we cannot talk about here. If you get a chance, shoot me a message on FB....Let's catch up!
Thanks - that is a big 12V battery! One thought that a battery manufacturer may consider for RV applications is to incorporate a DC-DC charger allowing for direct connection to a vehicle battery system for charging. I was thinking a MPPT too, but there are many variations of PV volt and amps but vehicle charging is overwhelmignly 12V.
Kisae, among others, make exactly what you're suggesting be built into a battery. My Kisae includes MPPT solar input, vehicle alternator input, and ignition-on control wire. On the battery end of it, selections of battery type including lithium/LiFePO4, and totally customizable. Likewise, you can customize max charging current (5, 10, 20, or 30A on the DMT 1230; 5 through 50A in 5A increments on the DMT 1250). Best to keep it a separate device, so that you can match a DC-DC charger to your specific needs, and reduce the cost of when your battery or charger becomes a brick. Once you include stuff like that in a battery, it's not a battery anymore, it's more like a power station (maybe minus an inverter, USB outputs, etc.)
Great video, again. It would be super cool if you had a spreadsheet of the different batteries you have reviewed, and manufacturers, and ratings for them, like consturction quality, and so forth. And then also, which you'd go for yourself. Say the video is about this 410Ah powerqueen, is that the one you'd buy in that range of Ah ? Or would you go with the 460Ah of Li-Time... Just some ideas. But thank you for your videos. Oh and I noticed you haven't reviewed a renogy battery yet, the self heating one are quite well priced.
81 pounds? What's inside of it, lead plates? I mean I know lithium is a metal but… You can only get so much in that sized box. Holy moly! My lead acid truck battery, weighed the same thing. About the same size. But I guess didn't have quite as much staying power? And made by Interstate Batteries. That power up, interstate trucking. Cool! That almost sounded like a commercial! For lead acid batteries. As they work. RemyRAD
Yes you can, which would give you about 600Ah of actual usable capacity and have to replace it probably 2-3x during the lifespan this LiFePO4 battery would last.
What will happen if one of these Battery's fall over on it's side for just a very short time I just bought me a LiFePo4 Lithium 100AH Battery and it's going in my Kayak and if I ever flip my Kayak It will be over a Very short time Less Than 2/3 min Top More like less than 1 min But will it Kill the battery for good? The Battery will be in a Waterproof box and will Not get wet at all And I have a mane Kill switch on my Boat from my Battery to my trolling motor and my Fish finder I can't find any videos on this at all Thank you much
I doubt anything bad will happen considering it gets flipped on all sides for long periods of time during shipping. I would be more concerned about water getting on your electronics.
them links Still don't say anything about if the Battery ever gets flipped over If it will Kill the battery Are just shut it off for a short Are anything I'm wanting to find out Well Thank you much anyway
Roy pow makes a true marine lithium battery. See will prowse video teardown. Dont ever get lithium battery wet......lots of fires after hurricane ian , in florida. golf carts , cars ect.
It's also nice to have some batteries without low temp protection. I live in the desert southwest, we just have a handful of nights every year where it gets below freezing and the areas where I keep my batteries will, realistically never get that cold. If we have some extreme weather where it may possibly get to cold, I will be fully aware. To be honest, I have no idea how much it costs a manufacturer to add low temp protection but I have noticed batteries with low temp protection cost more. It's simply a feature that some people don't really need and it's nice to have the option to not pay extra for that feature.
So is the bms in these batteries good enough so you can hook up a 200 watt/18 volt solar panel directly to it? That would save some money on a charge controller....
No. The BMS is a safety device not a charge controller. You will still need a proper charge controller that either supports LiFePO4 batteries or that you can program the correct voltages in to.
I'm from Honduras, I bought a 25.6V, 100 Ah battery online for $685 on Oct 31, 2022 from Power Queen company. The battery did not reach its destination, a locker in Doral, Miami Dade County. Three months later, Power Queen says she'll pay me back $100. I lost $585. Despite the fact that I paid 7% sales tax in the State of Alabama (USA), it seems that I am not entitled to receive a full refund of my money.
I was just thinking whether it is good idea to rotate the battery and here you show the instruction denying this. What could be the reason for the restriction?
Wow. Battery prices sure are dropping. I just bought a 24V/100Ah Lithium bat from Victron. Cost me ~$6000 AUS. And it doesn't even have an on-board BMS.
When my Chevy Bolt eventually dies is there a kit anywhere that will let me drop the battery pack out of it, stand it up in my garage and use that instead of a powerwall or similar? Even at 50% capacity that's still ~33kWh for essentially free. Yeah I could tear the pack apart and build my own powerwall out of its guts, but that sounds like work (not to mention dangerous).
I have a 20’ toy hauler with a Dometec air conditioner. Does anyone know if this single battery would start and run the a/c unit for a couple of hours? I assume it’s a 15,000btu / 1500watt unit. Thanks!
Due to starting spike I use two Honda 2k gens.Then turn 1 off while running.Just 1 gen won’t start it.All I know is you’d need your roof covered in panels to run all day with solar.Something like 8 300 watt panels.I think that unit runs on 6 amps? Starts 20 amps? Maybe a 600ah bat to run about an hour I’m guessing ?Im not really sure.
Will this power a split A/C -Heater on a Semi truck if got got 2 of them and will it work in Arizona heat Florida humidity and heat and Canada cold. If I put them in a outside box on semi truck. Or any suggestions on where to put them or a better battery that can handle the Cold and heat and power a split A/C system. Which is a hone unit...
I ordered one in France as part of the Black Friday promotion, allegedly delivered from a warehouse in Germany. A month later nothing had arrived and I had to reclaim the payment from my credit card company because the manufacturer failed to either provide a tracking number of respond to my emails AVOID
@@LithiumSolar Thank you. I am trying to learn more about the different batteries. Do the Blue encasement boxes indicate Prismatic vs some other style of container for cylindrical battery? Or are all the battery makers using prismatic cells now?
@@LithiumSolar I may have found an answer, if all the cylindrical batteries are contained the same way, that is. In your Mustart Battery teardown, these were the cylindrical cells. Plus, the aluminum casing is more heat, thus fire, resistant as opposed to the plastic encasements for cylindrical, as I understand.
Still don't understand why do they put a picture with a van on the website, those wires are not isolated against vibration, the screws with the white silicon it's a joke. Worked on many automotive batterys like A123 start or the LG CHM, and when I see this kind of crappy construction here, meake me cry. I would use them only on stationary applications.
True, i just got a 100aH LiFePO4 for u$210 on black Friday, although this one has no BT or big BMS (50amps), it is purely for secondary purposes of only LED lighting and USB device charging. A friend of mine bought 8 (800aH) of them for $1700, for his farm in Florida, and loving it! All the batteries got 99 to 107aH after their first full test cycle, and yanked 4200w out of them in the stress test we did! The price factor on the PQ410 is way out of line IMO.
You would rather have 4 separate batteries taking up a larger footprint, more wiring, terminals, time and labor over a compact footprint and no need for multiple cable connections for parallel connections. Sure you can buy an EG4 for the same money but this one you can toss in the back of a camper, pickup truck, pack it with you for an extended camping trip, get wet, get dusty. Try that with a rack mount unit or five separate 100aH batteries. If it is useful for your usage or if it isn't useful, it's how you use it that makes it worth it or not.
@@sanseiryu If the purpose is "only" using it for 12V devices, and for needing long duration while out in the wilderness or what not, sure, go for that. But that is probably going to be the minority, tbh. Most ppl would be looking at these for powerwall applications. So space isn't as much as a premium. Also, they aren't the same size. 100Ah 6.8inW * 13inL * 8.8inH 410Ah 10.6inW * 20.4inL * 8.6inH Same height, but 36% wider and 36% longer. So they won't fit in the same space. Either one will fit an RV space, tho. However, if you want "capacity", then going with 5 of the 100Ah batteries would be cheaper over all "and" would give you good failover in case one of them stops functioning for some reason (ie. the bms shuts the unit off for some reason). That way you won't be left in the dark with zero power available. Using a single battery means you have a single point of failure, and zero backup (aside from a generator and/or starting the RV up)
@@korishan 4-100aH batteries vs 1 400aH battery. Which takes up more space? Which requires more cabling and connectors. If you have one 48 v 100aH server rack battery and a component fails internally, what's the difference? You're left in the dark. A few years ago people were still stripping Lion cells from electric cars battery packs building their own power walls with raw cells. Stripping cells from modem, scooter batteries, all kinds of crap. Then buying and shipping lifepo4 cells to build diy milk crate battery banks. Now we don't have to do that anymore because of choices. Cheaper and more convenient to buy ready made batteries like this one or server rack batteries. Or if you have a ton of money to spend, buy a bunch of Ecoflow pros, daisy chain them and build a powerwall with those. Do you tell people who buy Battle Born batteries that they are wasting their money? 'You should buy Power Queen it's half the price!'
I see this and reading through some of those comments is... shocking? They include many reports of receiving used/returned equipment instead of new and a 12V-only version? Who knows what the 3rd party sellers on Amazon are pawning off. I wouldn't purchase one there unless it's a reputable seller/dealer. I purchased both of mine from Current Connected (link below). www.currentconnected.com/product/aims-con/?ref=lithiumsolar
@ 3:02 "Look how this thing is built" - yeah it looks pretty much like it's home built, not in a factory. And edges of some batteries look deformed. Amazing build quality indeed. 😂
Me thinks that logic sounds reasonable! I have to wonder though, having 2x the amount of cells and 2x the BMS - greater chance of a failure, statistically speaking? Hmmm.
why should I buy it Mate?What's the price?I woulduse these instead of bricks to build a HOUSE that would power as many dark houses around as many battaries are used. We extremelly need something like this in Ukraine. We have lot of free lands, so building 500-1k people settlement and backup power for all the region around.
Could you say something about which hybrid solar inverters these batteries work with? Power Queen says you can connect up to four of them in series for 51.2 volts, but that wouldn't be enough to drive the new Sunny Boy hybrid inverter from SMA which requires 90V to 500V.
I don't work with, nor have any expereience with, high voltage DC systems. You would need something custom built if you're looking for 90-500V. None of the batteries I have reviewed thus far are capable of reaching those ranges. Additionally, there is a lot that needs to happen in terms of safety when working with high voltage DC.
too bad i can't use few of these for my solar home in northern ontario . they told me because of the low temps during the winter that they will fail (-50f) with out heat. so i guess lead acid will have to do.
@@LithiumSolar yep. i looked at these a few years ago. hauling lead acid in and out by boat when needed at 220#'s + - a piece and i'm not young any more i thought that the lifepo4 would last long and a lot lighter til they told me nope they won't work. i think that they said -20f maybe and it would be iffy. but we are not there but from june 1st til 1st or so of oct. too cold for me up there. 90 - 100f in summer. crazy right? lol
I’m a noob, and I’m curious if you or anyone has ever done a scatter chart(s) showing the different brands cost to Ah, size to Ah, cost to size and whatever else I don’t even know to ask. Here’s my logic; I know my budget, I know how much space I have (3d), and I know how many Ah I need. What I would like to know is what has the most Ah for the footprint/size, or the most Ah for the buck, by brand.
12V 410Ah Battery... ipowerqueen.com/products/power-queen-12-8v-410ah-lifepo4-battery-built-in-250a-bms/?ref=lithiumsolar
12V 100Ah Battery... ipowerqueen.com/products/12-8v-100ah-lifepo4-battery-built-in-100a-bms/?ref=lithiumsolar
AIMS Charger... www.currentconnected.com/product/aims-con/?ref=lithiumsolar
(affiliate links)
Just out of curiosity how much juice do that charger pull out of the wall while it's charging 70-75 amps to the battery? Have you measured that yet? Because I'm wondering if my little 15 amp outlet is going to work> Thanks
THE CLICK IS BACK! It's reviewers like you and others doing rigorous teardowns that have forced these companies to make high quality products! Thanks!
you are truly a baby -he was paid to review and tear down THAT battery!
I would love to have a big enough budget to have 16 of these batteries in a 4s4p configuration and 15kw to 20kw of solar on my roof with one of those awesome 12Kw all in one Sol Ark inverter systems or maybe a big enough Victron system to handle the whole house and the 240v split phase stuff. It would be magical to produce more energy than my whole house uses per day, but my dream 20kw solar system and the 82Kwh of Lifepo4 batteries, plus inverters/solar charge controllers, etc, would end up being a $50,000 system. Its tough to imagine spending $50k on solar and batteries when my house isn't that big and probably doesn't need that amount of solar, but I want enough battery power to get me through a few days of winter with snow in the northeast
Great review, The stuff on the chips is "Thermally Conductive Adhesive Transfer Tape" or thermal tape. You see it a lot in the PC world for cooling high speed ram.
I think I've heard it called 'sil pad'
just bought 2 100A 12V for my camper i'm so damn happy 1 month in just 120-140w on my roof & im charged up in no time & man they hold power all night, now i have to say after 2/h years in my camper i see how much I would love to have this 1 batt! With some work I could make it fit but it would not be easy. If I had just bought the camper this week I would for certain go for some extra construction & go for 1 of these, the big battery I think is the way to go!
I don’t understand how they dissipate the heat generated by the BMS in a sealed environment. Would like to see a test where you run a full 250A load and see how long it lasts.
That's a great idea for a test. I'll see if I can make it happen! (need to find another 12V inverter)
@@LithiumSolar I can’t see how it couldn’t fail. High current = a lot of heat, heat sinks need to cool down, impossible in a closed sealed environment especially without a fan. I’m an electronic technician, and the numbers don’t compute. Feel free to contact me.
No, load here down on DC, 250 straight. I’m pretty sure it will get #$&@
Totaly agree it would go thermal go into protection mode shut down ok run micro wave heat some food etc but if you were running muliple electric grills say in mobile food van not a chance
High temp cutoff protection.
Uncanny how you pulled exactly the rated watt/hrs on the test -- 5248! Impressive.
It is not watts/hrs. It's Watt Hours or Watt-Hours. There is no division.
So the units are Wh, not w/h.
@@deang5622 You know what you are? Your a watt bully!!!
Ive always been a raw cells kind of guy because it just works out so much cheaper but if the price falls a bit further I might end up going this way so could just buy an all in one mpp solar charger/inverter, plug it all together and Im done. These sealed units are still at least 30% more expensive than raw cells but are obviously more hassle to build a set up...I will have to consider them as an option for my next build though.
I totally agree about the self built way. I was able to make a 48V 15KWHR battery with a 250A BMS with touchscreen for right around $3K.
@@daveyd0071 10 to 20 years of no power bills for 3K is a great deal :)
@@daveyd0071hello, I was wondering how your DIY system is working now that it has been about a year? I used to research this stuff years ago, but haven’t recently…. What brands are recommended now for the cells? For the BMS? The last time I was looking t this stuff, CALB was recommended. Thanks
just found your channel, first video i watched. never seen anyone unbox and rip apart a $1500 battery so fast, cant wait to see more!
The thermal pads are called exactly what you called them. They are mostly used on low-power portable device processors or power-delivery elements such as MOSFETS (basically a power-delivery switch) on GPUs and sometimes on computer motherboards that don't get quite hot enough to warrant their own active cooling system - The pads will usually be touching the cooling plate of the part that needs the most cooling. I'd guess that the fact that they've used them here is a sign that this is a quality product. Cheaper consumer computing hardware wouldn't generally have these pads. Thanks for the video. You can probbaly guess from the comment why I'm watching your very informative video. Panels and portable power station first. Now it's time for the real deal!
With this being one of the first BMS rated at 250A on the market, in this form factor, I would like to pose a question regarding the potentially undersized pair of 6 gauge conductors bridging (BMS > two 6 gauge copper conductors > m8 Epoxy Terminals) to support 500A Peak load for 55 seconds.
This question relates to a use case of one Power Queen 12.8V 410A battery in an RV that may require a full 500A draw for the rated 55 seconds, permitted by the VIP 250A BMS specifications.
Question: Would the set of two 6 gauge copper conductors, that create the bridge between the 250A continuous BMS (500A Peak) and the m8 epoxy terminals, be sufficient to support a 500A Peak load for 55 seconds, while not becoming the fuse (read: fire hazard)?
For example:
On the Power Queen 12.8V 410Ah battery, between the 250A BMS and m8 epoxy terminal connections, there are two 6 gauge copper conductors. However, at the provided conductor length, a single 6 gauge copper conductor affords a maximum rating of 65A @ 75°C (167°F) for a continuous 12V load.
Ampacity of a 6 gauge copper conductor, at an ambient temperature of 75°C (167°F) = 65A
6 gauge copper conductor: Max. Amp Load (Accounting For 80% NEC Rule) = 65A Ampacity × 0.8 = 52 Amps or 624 Watts continuous load.
I (Amps) × V (Volts) = P (Watts)
52A x 12V = 624W
4/0 AWG (0000) gauge wire can handle the largest amount of current of any AWG gauge wire. At 75°C, the 4/0 copper wire ampacity is 230 amp contiuous load (with 195 amps and 260 amps at 60°C and 90°C temperature, respectively.
VIP 250A BMS: However, the VIP 250A continuous BMS permits a 500A Peak load for 55 seconds, producing:
I (Amps) × V (Volts) = P (Watts)
500A x 12V = 6000W
or
I (Amps) = P (Watts) / 12V
500A = 6000W / 12V
It would appear the two 6 gauge copper conductors that create the bridge between the VIP 250A BMS and the epoxy m8 terminals would likely become the fuse, thus requiring a more appropriately sized gauge conductor (read: 4/0, 0000) to create the bridge between the 250A BMS and m8 epoxy terminal connections.
I thought it said 5 seconds rated. You are 100% correct though. I just spec-ed out a wire for a Walmart inverter I want to install in my car. I was a little concerned as 6 gauge wire is a bit thin for the 400 watt continuous & 800 watt peak loads. I figured nothing I am going to use on that inverter will ever draw more than about 300 watts so I am ok. However, 65 amps is right for 6 gauge wire. I suppose a 48 volt pack could run a 2k watt inverter fine, beyond that I would not trust this pack for more than 2x that more than a few seconds. One further thing to consider, length is a huge factor when determining DC resistance and thus current capacity. those wires are 6-18 inches. That may be just enough for 250 amps (but I seriously doubt it). Great catch on the numbers.
Good question. The wires don't spec out to handle the current. Since it's very high current it definitely appears dangerous. I totally missed it myself so thanks for bringing this up.
Its rated at that for a 5 second burst. Overloading for short bursts like that is common in lots of things from battery start chargers to Teslas. It even gives 3200w as the max continuous on the data sheet at 1:38 or so. At 12.8v thats exactly 250A. Its also got a thermal cut off just incase someone can't be bothered to read the instructions.
When you double up the wires its fine
@@supremeautomotive6749 And they're silicone insulated so are rated to operate at a higher temp and current.
Really great video! Merry Christmas!🎅
Super Video danke alles gute 2023 👌☘️👍😊
Really wish you had done a 250 amp draw test to verify that it would maintain that indefinitely and not just as a surge. That high discharge rate is what really makes this attractive to me. Would run one very large inverter or maybe several separate mid-sized inverters at the same time. Lots of versatility if it can actually deliver that 250 amps. I'm glad you did verify its capacity rating at least. Interesting tear down.
I really wanted to test this and was planning to do a follow-up; however, I do not have enough equipment to pull 250A at 12V. I didn't want to spend $300+ on inverters just for a single test.
@@LithiumSolar That's fair enough. I wouldn't do that either and that's why I hoped that you would. LOL Do you or any of your subscribers have any ideas on how to use an automotive starter battery tester or maybe a shunt connected to the precise amount of element wire from an old toaster to create a large load like 250 amps at 12ish volts? I don't make YT content, but my brain is always asking me, "How would I do this or that, if I wanted to?" and I haven't pursued this one yet. Thanks for the content that you did produce.
it can easily do 300 amps for two minutes before the BMS shuts down due to overtemp.
@@daveyd0071 But can it do 250 indefinitely? That's the question that needs to be answered, I think.
@@mrhalfstep If 3,200 Watts is what you want to pull all day I would suggest going with a 48V system as I highly doubt there's even a 12V solar charge controller that can pull it off. You might need close to 10K Watts in pv to sustain it on an overcast day at 48V. I have 5900 watts in PV and have been able to sustain my living as a single person on 22.5 KW Hours of lifepo4. I ordered the powerqueen 190AH yesterday and it should hopefully arrive tomorrow to test it on a separate off-grid 12V system. I haven't paid for utility power since I began this endeavor back in 2014.
Between the 81lbs and $1600, no thanks. I'd rather have 4-100ah batteries then if one fails in a year it isn't a huge expense and another month of back problems.
We run our whole house, completely off-grid, on 4 of their 300ah models.
18 months so far and not a single hiccup.
How many of what size did YOU buy and are currently using?
Not a fan of the construction. The terminal connections on the sides of the battery are a concern. Also the BMS, internal wire gauge and heat management. I like that it's easy to take apart, except the welded connect among the cells.
Just bought this battery. Very pumped.
Something doesn't quite jive with the 2-#6 leads to the terminals.
I'm in the market to purchase lithium batteries for my home, and the Power Queen caught me eye. So I'm glad you opened it up so we as consumers could see.
#6 is only rated for 60 Amps, even though the leads are short, I'd be a little skeptical to take it past 125 Amps continuous.
The 60A rating you're referencing is likely from the NEC for home residential wiring? That doesn't apply here. The rating for chassis wiring is significantly higher, not to mention this has an insulation rating of 200C.
@@LithiumSolar On the other side of the coin, I think residential code is 55A for 6AWG at 60C and 75A at 90C. Also, note that when a wire is in an insulated space (which an enclosed plastic battery case probably qualifies as) you need to de-rate the insulation rating of the wire. Regardless of whether NEC applies inside a device or not, the laws of physics which prompted the code, still apply.
I'm always skeptical that Chinese wire is AWG rather than just "gauge" or some rough translation of wire sized by mm**2 cross section. How much power dissipation happens in that wire per foot of length at 125A per wire? What temp does the insulation have to reach in order to dissipate that power into the air in the sealed case? If the answer is "well, it depends" as is usually true, let's be generous and assume it's a little under 200C (392F) in the worst normal scenario. How happy are you to know that one end of a copper wire hotter than your oven is bolted to the external terminal, and the other end to a cell terminal? OUCH, 200C is hot!
If 250A were for 5 seconds, I'd agree with you. But for continuous operation, I'd want to both do exact engineering calculations, and check the actual temps of the insulation and terminals with a thermocouple before being brave enough to push more than half that current continuously.
Anytime you parallel two wires to increase ampacity, you're relying upon the current being exactly equal in each wire, so the length, wire stripping, and connection quality have to be identical, or one wire is carrying more than half of the current. There's a lot going on, lots of potential points/modes of failure. I'm not the most nervous person in the world, but there's no way I'd pull 3200 watts through two 6ga wires in an encloses space, continuously.
*WOW Thats a nice size battery!!!*
I have a VoltX 300A/H battery. I never tested it and put it straight in the back of my car with a DC to DC charger.. Seems good Ava excellent value. I'll be replacing all my 7.2ah AGM batteries and replacing with 4 lithium batteries soon.. I had over 80 of the small ones fur free from a hospital. But they are slowly failing bit by bit but have lasted over 10 years. They were used to start with..
410ah may be awesome if I can find them
I too am using used 7.2ah sealed UPS batteries (26 of them) that i got free. I am expecting another 30 of them shortly. I will keep using them until they fail, then prob. upgrade like you but on a much smaller scale. I only have a total of 650 watts of panels so my system is very small. Greetings from Jamaica.
What a monster. Great video, Thank you for posting
Great review... the 300AH is $930 after coupon but for 100AH extra, the price jump to a whopping $1586
I assume the price difference is due to different cells in the 300Ah vs 400Ah. This battery has 8x 206Ah cells. I'm going to guess the 300Ah is comprised of 100Ah cells, not sure.
Could be added shipping weight? You'd be surprised how much shipping costs to weight and size jumps
@@swedesspeedshop2518 hello, free shipping from PowerQueen to Southern CA address :)
@@VincentsfamilyCali free shipping for you not for them. Do I really have to explain that the cost of shipping is baked into the price ? You think FedEx and ups are running a charity?
Wich coupon you use to have a good Price?
$1600 is ridiculous
beefy battery but you get more for your money buying just the seperate cells and configure them to your liking. I think the pressure on the cells with just the strips is not good enough - they will tend to bulge over time and loose capacity.
I agree you get more for your money by building your own. Most people though don't have the knowledge, skills, tools, or time to build their own battery. It's good to have quality options like these on the market. I'm not sure I agree regarding the straps though - time will tell for sure.
I just bought 2 of these for my Prevost
But the 300ah was being offered for $929 on Hobotech.
I haven't seen a bad review on Power Queen products on the contrary nothing but people raving about their performance.
Thank you for the detailed review! My main question for all batterys is: What is the expected life span? Will it last long enought to pay for itself?
Lithium iron phosphate cells are usually rated for 3000-5000 full charge/discharge cycles. If you choose to be gentler with the battery and don't discharge below 10% or above 90% you can expect to prolong their life to 5000-7000 cycles without much issue.
Also factor in that unlike lead acid which when dead are simply dead LFP batteries degrade capacity. Unless they experience catastrophic internal shorting or other failure they just become less energy dense over time meaning they will remain somewhat usable for potentially decades depending on the case.
$1600 battery and they can't spend the few extra bucks for a low temp cutoff BMS. lol. This feature will continue to be a pricey "perk" they are always too happy (greedy) to charge extra for.
Outrageous costs vs. Emergency use.
I've seen some residential projects online, the costs are enormous and you never get you're investment back.
Outrageous cost? This is very cheap and priced very competatively compared to other options.
If using that battery I would recommend 4 of them connected to a busbar so each battery delivers 75 amps max. 250 amps on a 206ah cell exceeds 1C which degrades battery life. even 2 or 3 to a busbar would help a lot. Very nice battery all in all. My RV would love 4 of those.
The cells are paralleled up in groups of 2. That makes it a 412Ah battery. Pulling 250A from a 412Ah battery is only 0.61C.
But yes, even at 0.61C running lower C rates will extend overall battery life.
@@LithiumSolar Oh okay. I forgot to divide the C in half since they are paralleled inside. so 2 would be perfect for my use then in an RV. Thank you.
Would like to see charging options for 48 volt lifepower batteries. I have been looking at the Bigbattery 240 volt 50amp charger but no one has done a review that I can find. Thats a big battery great review
AIMS also makes a charger like the one I used in the video for 36/48V batteries. That's what I've been using for my 48V testing. It maxes out at 19A though. I'll have to check out the BigBattery 50A!
Nice power queens. We only use power kings
I like both power queens and power kings.
Hey, I'm from Ukraine, from Kyiv, and as you know we are suffering of power outage and blackouts because of ruzzian aggression, so I have some exp to share with you. Normaly we have power only 8 hours per day so I installed electricity storage system at my place.
1. The mentioned in video acc is for home use (solar/grid). It has 12.8v and it's wierd. More efficiently to make 48v battery
2. It has 250 A and it's cool. Author has not provided max current load test. This is the most important characteristic.
My instance. I use Solis 5 kW invereter + 2 accs of Pylontech US2000C LiFePo4 with the max currect of 50A (short load current is 70 A, sorry don't know the correct terms in En, I hope you get my point).
I must admit that 50/70A 48v is too less for home, cuz when I turn on the devices without soft start (is it right? the technology that allows to restrict the start current) or devices that consump 2.5kW+ the batteries goes to safe mode and turns off. And that's really pisses me off. Especially when the boiler is on and my beloved wife turns on the hair drier and then all flat blackouts lol
Can’t wait for them to start using the Eve LF280k cells 😍280ah in a 100ah footprint.
Good review Mike!
Hey thanks, how have you been??
@@LithiumSolar I have shot you a few FB messages, but I guess you don't check that out any more. Well, I still list the 18650's but really do not push them much. The medical supply biz I started, sells have shot through the roof! Not to mention my gaming company. I would like to speak again and touch base on things we cannot talk about here. If you get a chance, shoot me a message on FB....Let's catch up!
Aluminum for conductors? Wonder how they look on a thermal gun during high current charging.
Laser-welded aluminum is the standard as the posts are always aluminum themselves. There's nothing wrong with aluminum.
Since this has a built in BMS, shouldn't any charger work?
Thanks - that is a big 12V battery!
One thought that a battery manufacturer may consider for RV applications is to incorporate a DC-DC charger allowing for direct connection to a vehicle battery system for charging. I was thinking a MPPT too, but there are many variations of PV volt and amps but vehicle charging is overwhelmignly 12V.
theres already all in 1 inverter chargers which could easily add a dc to dc charger
@@jar407 Yes, there is plenty of choice out there.
Kisae, among others, make exactly what you're suggesting be built into a battery. My Kisae includes MPPT solar input, vehicle alternator input, and ignition-on control wire. On the battery end of it, selections of battery type including lithium/LiFePO4, and totally customizable. Likewise, you can customize max charging current (5, 10, 20, or 30A on the DMT 1230; 5 through 50A in 5A increments on the DMT 1250). Best to keep it a separate device, so that you can match a DC-DC charger to your specific needs, and reduce the cost of when your battery or charger becomes a brick. Once you include stuff like that in a battery, it's not a battery anymore, it's more like a power station (maybe minus an inverter, USB outputs, etc.)
.....and of course it also includes very refined charging of all lead-acid varieties.
Great video, again. It would be super cool if you had a spreadsheet of the different batteries you have reviewed, and manufacturers, and ratings for them, like consturction quality, and so forth. And then also, which you'd go for yourself. Say the video is about this 410Ah powerqueen, is that the one you'd buy in that range of Ah ? Or would you go with the 460Ah of Li-Time...
Just some ideas. But thank you for your videos.
Oh and I noticed you haven't reviewed a renogy battery yet, the self heating one are quite well priced.
I watched the video for 5 seconds then I subscribed
Thank you.
I have three powerqueens now, and think they are working well.
powerqueen, chins and amperetime are good brands.
Four of those batteries and 10,000 Watt Solar Array could run my house!
They're called thermal SIL pads.
81 pounds? What's inside of it, lead plates? I mean I know lithium is a metal but… You can only get so much in that sized box. Holy moly! My lead acid truck battery, weighed the same thing. About the same size. But I guess didn't have quite as much staying power? And made by Interstate Batteries. That power up, interstate trucking.
Cool! That almost sounded like a commercial! For lead acid batteries. As they work.
RemyRAD
no isolation between the Cells themself?
Yes, there is isolation between the cells. I noted this in the video.
@@LithiumSolar ah OK missed that comment at beginning of video
$1600 holy shit, i get 1200 AH lead battery for that kind of money!
Yes you can, which would give you about 600Ah of actual usable capacity and have to replace it probably 2-3x during the lifespan this LiFePO4 battery would last.
@@LithiumSolar i only need 250 Amps/24H and in my trailer i have lead battery’s for 5 years now…..
Nice battery. It is a monster for sure!
huge battery. good review. solid battery. thanks for sharing
That's a beast!
What will happen if one of these Battery's fall over on it's side for just a very short time I just bought me a LiFePo4 Lithium 100AH Battery and it's going in my Kayak and if I ever flip my Kayak It will be over a Very short time Less Than 2/3 min Top More like less than 1 min But will it Kill the battery for good? The Battery will be in a Waterproof box and will Not get wet at all And I have a mane Kill switch on my Boat from my Battery to my trolling motor and my Fish finder I can't find any videos on this at all Thank you much
I doubt anything bad will happen considering it gets flipped on all sides for long periods of time during shipping. I would be more concerned about water getting on your electronics.
them links Still don't say anything about if the Battery ever gets flipped over If it will Kill the battery Are just shut it off for a short Are anything I'm wanting to find out Well Thank you much anyway
Roy pow makes a true marine lithium battery. See will prowse video teardown. Dont ever get lithium battery wet......lots of fires after hurricane ian , in florida. golf carts , cars ect.
4:25 lol in the UK that's a tyre tread Gauge I have one :D
It needs low temperature protection and Bluetooth to keep track of the battery.
It's also nice to have some batteries without low temp protection. I live in the desert southwest, we just have a handful of nights every year where it gets below freezing and the areas where I keep my batteries will, realistically never get that cold.
If we have some extreme weather where it may possibly get to cold, I will be fully aware.
To be honest, I have no idea how much it costs a manufacturer to add low temp protection but I have noticed batteries with low temp protection cost more.
It's simply a feature that some people don't really need and it's nice to have the option to not pay extra for that feature.
Bluetooth and a kind of balancing too
What type/size charge controller would you recommend for this size battery?
Maybe one day I’ll be able to afford one for my golf cart.
So is the bms in these batteries good enough so you can hook up a 200 watt/18 volt solar panel directly to it? That would save some money on a charge controller....
No. The BMS is a safety device not a charge controller. You will still need a proper charge controller that either supports LiFePO4 batteries or that you can program the correct voltages in to.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks!
at last a serious battery :) 410Ah
I'm from Honduras, I bought a 25.6V, 100 Ah battery online for $685 on Oct 31, 2022 from Power Queen company. The battery did not reach its destination, a locker in Doral, Miami Dade County. Three months later, Power Queen says she'll pay me back $100. I lost $585.
Despite the fact that I paid 7% sales tax in the State of Alabama (USA), it seems that I am not entitled to receive a full refund of my money.
this twice i hear some shady shyt
How does it perform in cold temps?
It looks pretty good but you can get an eg4 for the same price
Don't ask $1669.99
100Ah $309.99
I was just thinking whether it is good idea to rotate the battery and here you show the instruction denying this. What could be the reason for the restriction?
How long might this run a portable residential 5000btu ac unit with a 3,000 watt inverter?
Wow. Battery prices sure are dropping.
I just bought a 24V/100Ah Lithium bat from Victron. Cost me ~$6000 AUS.
And it doesn't even have an on-board BMS.
that was expensive!
Got my P.Q 200ah plus today, just installed it! Should I wait till tomorrow to use it so it can fully charge?
👍👌🇨🇦❤️, Gr8 content, Power Queen also ship free to Canada
شكرا لك
Not sure about those straps, the prismatic cells are known to expand a bit so I don't think those straps are a good idea.
When my Chevy Bolt eventually dies is there a kit anywhere that will let me drop the battery pack out of it, stand it up in my garage and use that instead of a powerwall or similar?
Even at 50% capacity that's still ~33kWh for essentially free.
Yeah I could tear the pack apart and build my own powerwall out of its guts, but that sounds like work (not to mention dangerous).
Доброго дня Вам! Яка ціна такої гарної батареї?
Does the battery have Bluetooth? If I put two together to make 820 ah 12v could I monitor the stats on my phone?
I have a 20’ toy hauler with a Dometec air conditioner. Does anyone know if this single battery would start and run the a/c unit for a couple of hours? I assume it’s a 15,000btu / 1500watt unit. Thanks!
Due to starting spike I use two Honda 2k gens.Then turn 1 off while running.Just 1 gen won’t start it.All I know is you’d need your roof covered in panels to run all day with solar.Something like 8 300 watt panels.I think that unit runs on 6 amps? Starts 20 amps? Maybe a 600ah bat to run about an hour I’m guessing ?Im not really sure.
I googles it for you.Says that 400ah lithium bat will run yer ac for about 2 hours.
It's the inverter not the battery that starts the Air conditioner
Put a soft starter on it and will take much less to get it started.
I feel like I need a monitor inside for the individual cells. Have you looked at the LPFMAX or JavaEnegy Smart Bluetooth 12V 300Ah?
Is 12a charger enough for 50ah model?
A 12A charger will charge a 50Ah battery in approximately 4.1 hours.
@@LithiumSolar thanks
Will this power a split A/C -Heater on a Semi truck if got got 2 of them and will it work in Arizona heat Florida humidity and heat and Canada cold. If I put them in a outside box on semi truck. Or any suggestions on where to put them or a better battery that can handle the Cold and heat and power a split A/C system. Which is a hone unit...
Wow such a bit capacity, but the price is too high
Olá, como faço para minhas células lifepo4 não incha?
price and details and how can purchase.
I ordered one in France as part of the Black Friday promotion, allegedly delivered from a warehouse in Germany. A month later nothing had arrived and I had to reclaim the payment from my credit card company because the manufacturer failed to either provide a tracking number of respond to my emails
AVOID
Your logistics customs issues doesnt have anything to do with the battery. Maybe those germans stole your batter HAHA
Are these cylindrical or prismatic cells?
Aluminum-cased prismatic cells.
@@LithiumSolar Thank you. I am trying to learn more about the different batteries. Do the Blue encasement boxes indicate Prismatic vs some other style of container for cylindrical battery? Or are all the battery makers using prismatic cells now?
@@LithiumSolar I may have found an answer, if all the cylindrical batteries are contained the same way, that is. In your Mustart Battery teardown, these were the cylindrical cells. Plus, the aluminum casing is more heat, thus fire, resistant as opposed to the plastic encasements for cylindrical, as I understand.
Still don't understand why do they put a picture with a van on the website, those wires are not isolated against vibration, the screws with the white silicon it's a joke. Worked on many automotive batterys like A123 start or the LG CHM, and when I see this kind of crappy construction here, meake me cry. I would use them only on stationary applications.
Does it have low temp warning?
Sheesh. You can buy "5" of the 100Ah batteries for the cost of "1" 410Ah battery 🤔
Usually it's the other way around.
True, i just got a 100aH LiFePO4 for u$210 on black Friday, although this one has no BT or big BMS (50amps), it is purely for secondary purposes of only LED lighting and USB device charging. A friend of mine bought 8 (800aH) of them for $1700, for his farm in Florida, and loving it! All the batteries got 99 to 107aH after their first full test cycle, and yanked 4200w out of them in the stress test we did!
The price factor on the PQ410 is way out of line IMO.
You would rather have 4 separate batteries taking up a larger footprint, more wiring, terminals, time and labor over a compact footprint and no need for multiple cable connections for parallel connections. Sure you can buy an EG4 for the same money but this one you can toss in the back of a camper, pickup truck, pack it with you for an extended camping trip, get wet, get dusty. Try that with a rack mount unit or five separate 100aH batteries. If it is useful for your usage or if it isn't useful, it's how you use it that makes it worth it or not.
@@sanseiryu If the purpose is "only" using it for 12V devices, and for needing long duration while out in the wilderness or what not, sure, go for that. But that is probably going to be the minority, tbh.
Most ppl would be looking at these for powerwall applications. So space isn't as much as a premium.
Also, they aren't the same size.
100Ah 6.8inW * 13inL * 8.8inH
410Ah 10.6inW * 20.4inL * 8.6inH
Same height, but 36% wider and 36% longer. So they won't fit in the same space.
Either one will fit an RV space, tho.
However, if you want "capacity", then going with 5 of the 100Ah batteries would be cheaper over all "and" would give you good failover in case one of them stops functioning for some reason (ie. the bms shuts the unit off for some reason). That way you won't be left in the dark with zero power available.
Using a single battery means you have a single point of failure, and zero backup (aside from a generator and/or starting the RV up)
@@korishan 4-100aH batteries vs 1 400aH battery. Which takes up more space? Which requires more cabling and connectors. If you have one 48 v 100aH server rack battery and a component fails internally, what's the difference? You're left in the dark. A few years ago people were still stripping Lion cells from electric cars battery packs building their own power walls with raw cells. Stripping cells from modem, scooter batteries, all kinds of crap. Then buying and shipping lifepo4 cells to build diy milk crate battery banks. Now we don't have to do that anymore because of choices. Cheaper and more convenient to buy ready made batteries like this one or server rack batteries. Or if you have a ton of money to spend, buy a bunch of Ecoflow pros, daisy chain them and build a powerwall with those. Do you tell people who buy Battle Born batteries that they are wasting their money? 'You should buy Power Queen it's half the price!'
@@sanseiryu I think you are completely missing the point here 🙄
That Aims charger has a ton of 1 star reviews (nearly 20%) on amazon for what it's worth......
I see this and reading through some of those comments is... shocking? They include many reports of receiving used/returned equipment instead of new and a 12V-only version? Who knows what the 3rd party sellers on Amazon are pawning off. I wouldn't purchase one there unless it's a reputable seller/dealer. I purchased both of mine from Current Connected (link below).
www.currentconnected.com/product/aims-con/?ref=lithiumsolar
LOL I see now that the Amazon listing actually says "This model only supports charging 12 volt DC batteries. Not suitable for 24 volt DC"
I wish I had the money to get thi
About price please
You can look at the website to see their current prices.
Why bother with the bulky & cost while we can get 12V, up to hundreds of amps dry battery. We can use the inverter to get 110volts too?
you aint stacking nothing on that with the terminals on the top - gong
No, they're not made to stack vertically like that. Need to be on shelves.
@ 3:02 "Look how this thing is built" - yeah it looks pretty much like it's home built, not in a factory. And edges of some batteries look deformed. Amazing build quality indeed. 😂
There are no deformed edges on the batteries. Where are you seeing this?
Me thinks buying two at half the size is a safer bet. If it goes bad your out 400ah
Me thinks that logic sounds reasonable! I have to wonder though, having 2x the amount of cells and 2x the BMS - greater chance of a failure, statistically speaking? Hmmm.
Don't forget the cost of a hernia, too.
why should I buy it Mate?What's the price?I woulduse these instead of bricks to build a HOUSE that would power as many dark houses around as many battaries are used. We extremelly need something like this in Ukraine. We have lot of free lands, so building 500-1k people settlement and backup power for all the region around.
Can youn cooment on your AIMS sharger as your provided link to site says"Product discontinued due to QC/QA issues" TY
Wow, didn't realize it has been discontinued. I haven't had any trouble with mine and I've used both of them dozens of times now.
Could you say something about which hybrid solar inverters these batteries work with? Power Queen says you can connect up to four of them in series for 51.2 volts, but that wouldn't be enough to drive the new Sunny Boy hybrid inverter from SMA which requires 90V to 500V.
I don't work with, nor have any expereience with, high voltage DC systems. You would need something custom built if you're looking for 90-500V. None of the batteries I have reviewed thus far are capable of reaching those ranges. Additionally, there is a lot that needs to happen in terms of safety when working with high voltage DC.
@@LithiumSolar So SMA is a no. Are there others you've worked with?
How the hell is that little 1500 watt heater pulling 70 amps and that 2000 watt inverter able to put out 70 amps ?
That 70A is on the DC side, not AC.
Shipping to US only. That sucks.
Cho mình hỏi bao nhiêu đô vậy a.?????
too bad i can't use few of these for my solar home in northern ontario . they told me because of the low temps during the winter that they will fail (-50f) with out heat. so i guess lead acid will have to do.
Yeah those are some pretty extreme temperatures, wow... That goes below even the safe discharge operating range.
@@LithiumSolar yep. i looked at these a few years ago. hauling lead acid in and out by boat when needed at 220#'s + - a piece and i'm not young any more i thought that the lifepo4 would last long and a lot lighter til they told me nope they won't work. i think that they said -20f maybe and it would be iffy. but we are not there but from june 1st til 1st or so of oct. too cold for me up there. 90 - 100f in summer. crazy right? lol
I’m a noob, and I’m curious if you or anyone has ever done a scatter chart(s) showing the different brands cost to Ah, size to Ah, cost to size and whatever else I don’t even know to ask. Here’s my logic; I know my budget, I know how much space I have (3d), and I know how many Ah I need. What I would like to know is what has the most Ah for the footprint/size, or the most Ah for the buck, by brand.
Yes video👍 🔋⚡🔌💡