Inverter Problems
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Inverter Problems and Troubleshooting
Here is a link to someone wiring up the same type of inverter, the same way as me, and not getting these issues • Reliable 3000W Pure Si...
Link to purchase a 3000W version of the current inverter being used on the Suneater:
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After going through 4 different brands, my Giandel inverter has run without any problems for a year, and the 3000W should be sufficient to run a car charger and small A/C unit.
I wound up having to do ground bypass using a GFCI outlet and an extra fuse for safety. This allows me to use a ground detect "appliance", like an electric car charging cable, with a portable inverter. My next video on the channel is about this bypass. This can be done safely (The Renogy 3000w inverter I originally used for this project came from the manufacturer with an internal ground bypass), but you are working with wires that will be transmitting 120v AC power, so use caution and stay focused during the build.
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Just had a helpful viewer e-mail me some insight. He relayed "I believe the overvoltage light on the inverter is caused by the solar charge controller. When the voltage on the batts is close to full, the charger may put out high frequency, high voltage spikes, ~14.7v for short durations, to keep the battery topped off." Brilliance in it's simplicity, and I don't know how I didn't see it before. Next time, I get an overvoltage warning light, I'll definitely try disconnecting the charge controller. (Always disconnect panels first, THEN disconnect battery leads). Thanks to all the viewers who have helped me with this project.
Energizer did contact me about the inverter and say "Our product is UL listed, and perfectly safe, ." -blah, blah, blah. I told them exactly how I had it set up when it failed (really failed!),and said maybe I got a lemmon. If you want to mail me another one, I will test it out and retract my description of it as "unsafe" if it works as advertised. I got no response to my offer. All cables gauges were up to NEC specs, and all connections were tight and solid when this inverter failed.
Update: 11-12-2019 I eventually switched to a Giandel 4000w inverter. Which makes it's first appearance in the video "Solar Powered Air Conditioning". This inverter has worked perfectly for 2 months and counting.
Update: 2-16-2020 The Giandel 4000w is really starting to look like a home run. I like the features on it, and we're over 5 months/3,000 miles using this inverter, with no signs of problems whatsoever.
Update: 11-24-2020 The Giandel just passed the 1 year of use mark. No problems whatsoever.
Many thanks for posting the answer!!!
Wondering if what I stated yesterday will also work as the spikes might be released via the resistors and car chassis.
Might help in avoiding disconnecting/reconnecting.
A wagan tech proline 3000 watt has true ground get one those or go power I know I use the proline 3000 and have tested it it has ground most inverters have open ground and the one you got most them have hot neutral
try some sort of voltage regulator
Well I hope that shirt is just a fanboy shirt and doesn't suggest that you actually work for Spacex.
@@jameswilsin5348 It's weird that WAGAN touts the "Neutral to Ground Bonded/True Ground" in their list of inverter features yet totally ignores describing this rather "unique" advantage in the User's Manual(s). Very odd if you ask me...
Just an observation, IMO you have those batteries connected in parallel but you are drawing the Positive and negative from only the first battery (right hand one), to use them correctly you need to be drawing your load from the positive on the battery at the left and negative on the right hand battery (or vice versa) that would ensure balanced use of all 4 batteries and give better power draw. may help may not. (edit:- wow just realised this is 3 years old lol)
Those inverters are awesome, I have 5kw one in my shop. Simple fix, step 1 you take the ground side of your battery bank and ground it to the car chassis. Step 2 ground the chassis of the inverter ( the little screw on the bottom ) and ground it to the car chassis. The neutral and ground come together at the battery side of the system. Easy peasy, lemon squeezey. This is how all electrical systems work, the grounds and neutrals come together at the power source, in your case it's the battery bank negative or simply ground your inverter to the negative side of your battery bank, same thing.
Thank you for the detail, the real world is made of success and failure. You are a brave man and your courage to take us on ALL of the journey is appreciated.
I have been tinkering around with Off Grid Solar systems since 2016. And it has so far been my experience that the Inverter you have is the Most Likely thing to go out: especially IF it isn't one that is Transformer-Based (that weighs 100 lbs or More). The lighter ones that operate off of mossfets at high frequency (in my experience) last from 6 months to 2.5 years. If you have one that has lasted longer be thankful. I also think that the More you Stress it out by using it at 1/2 0r More of it's Rated Power, it will not last as long. This applies with almost everything,
Agree
Second thing the video isn't boring it's very informational for people who are having the same problem now everyone is not going to have the same problems but the people who do and working with products like that want to know before they spend a lot of money to have the same problems thank you your video was excellent and I gave it a thumbs up
After watching a few other videos of people using this system I went back and made sure I had full contact of my copper 4/0 gauge wire lug directly against the flat plates of the inverter terminal, with no washers in between. It didn't make any difference whatsoever. Problems persisted
Hello, I really appreciate what you have done here. I am a DIY'er have a late 2021 Forrest River 25' Surveyer Legend I have been through the same testing and frustrations you have been going through. I felt your pain you shared and described in this video. I thought I was alone and that the problems with my system was my problem and not the company or Renogy product I purchased. I have a 3000W and 1000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger w/ LCD Display SKU's: R-INVT-PCL1-30111S-US Renogy inverter. I have a degree in practical hands-on electronics and, up until this install in 2022-2023, I was comfortable with my skill set and I have been beating myself up with this install. Your install is real nice and is neat and still it failed. A load is a load, and the company that told you that they have not tested for a charger. Heck, you are connecting to a car charger and your system does not know the difference and that tech did not know his or her stuff. I am going to make a video like yours about my frustrations, and maybe it too will help others. To date, I am ready to rip out my inverter system and going back to old school, solar panels and an aux 3700-watt Onan gas generator. No matter what I did with my Renogy 3000 or 1000-watt inverter, it would not last long and give that annoying beep until I reset it. My inverter is wired in as the 3000-watt has an integrated transfer switch in it. I have learned a lot but not enough, and I am encouraged by your video. I think I am going to use a NON-RENOGY inverter system that does not have a transfer switch and use a manual one so i can switch between shore power and battery. After all, this was for off-grid and quiet to make coffee and use the AC for a bit, nothing radical. You can call me any time at 714 329-4860 if you are still messing with this and anyone else that wishes to make a better world for DIY'ers. See my Channel RUclips.com/erickirkhuff e
I just wanted to comment on the temperature, If you want to accurately measure the temperature of the electronics ( especially in a hot car) you have to remember that the air temperature around the electronics will not be the same as it is inside. Most of them are made out of aluminum and will hold much higher temps on the inside. I ended up using a cheap temperature relay I got from amazon, and installed it inside the inverter, and I noticed the temps were up to 10 to 15 degrees hotter than the air temperature in the car. ( they are like $20 for a set of 2) I used mine to light up a light when it got to a set temp I programmed. If you are planning on a cooling system, you could use the same relay to turn on and off the cooling system with such a relay and it would not consume as much power, or have a lot of manual aspects of it. I just thought I would share my experience. 125 degree car = 140+ degree electronics. (based on me seeing a 10 to 15 degree difference between the surrounding temp and the internal temp after installing the temp relay.
I went through 2 aims inverters the first was like that red light blinking showing overvoltage and I knew it wasn’t made the house lights blink all the time like every time that red light blinked the lights would blink , they sent me a warranty replacement that didn’t even work , they would be great for lithium batteries they seem to sick with agm and lead acid from my experience, long story short customer service is great the product seems to need a lot of work . Great video sir I just subbed
Thank you for the feedback. I'm sure you know how frustrating it can be when these things don't work right outta the box. There seems to almost be an element of luck when shopping for inverters. It's weird. Will Prowse seems to know his stuff and he endorses the Gaindel inverters. Thats going to be my next attempt. Going with a 4000watt so I can sell my gas genny and use the solar leaf as the new backup house generator.
I have a 2000 watts Aims Power inverter charger, 24 volts. I've fried it twice but it's fixed now. It has been on for a year now. Mine wouldn't blink until it was damaged the first time, the heat sensor has to be in one exact spot to work right. I worked on it the last time and found that out. I don't try to run the welder with it anymore, lol. The power board on mine was different than the first two
After they are out of warranty, they send a better board. Some of the parts are different and now it works right. I think Aims Power did it to sell parts. I've gotten used to the old thing now.
Oh, I have 20 marine batteries, it does a little better with a bunch of them. I might get four more next summer. It's pretty hard to run them down.
Sorry for yet another comment. With those inverters, (reliable) there is not a neutral to ground bond. You would have to Bond neutral to ground yourself. Because where this is made it does not require them to be bonded, kind of like GFCI in a home, that's not a requirement "world wide" so of course if its not a requirement they skip it :( . it is easy to do, but I only recommend if you know or are comfortable with doing such things, because you could get hurt and I would not want you to get yourself hurt.
Great information. I wish inverters would come with more information on what they can and can't do, and what some of the specific shortcomings of their design are. That doesn't happen though, people have to figure it out themselves, which is probably why SO many people have watched found this video looking for answers. When using them in solar car applications where a true ground is impossible to receive, I have learned to just install fuses anywhere a short circuit can occur that would potentially shock someone.
One thing I can think of that might help others and you down the road is that I don't know if there's a consumer report or list of which power inverters are reliable and ranked by how long they last. people need this to avoid issues like this. And it seems like a lot of people are having issues with inverters. But to get away from that people would have to be able to study out which last longer, and that's lacking right now for everyone to look at.
The way those EV chargers check for ground is it looks for continuity between the neutral and ground. That’s not the way those cheap inverters work though, between the neutral and L1 there is 60V between them 180 degrees out of phase. The ground post is connected directly to the negative post of the battery. Don’t try to bond the neutral to the ground on those inverters as it will be a direct short and damage the inverter. You need a 240V split phase inverter with a bonded ground or a 120V inverter that doesn’t use split phase. It needs to use the same wiring scheme that’s used in a house to be able to use that EV charger.
I've been looking for a way to go from the inverter to the main breaker box... I want to disconnect the main utility and hook it up 100% off grid. Is a split phase inverter the only option?
Dude really good job on announcing the makers and the products you definitely need to make more videos like this explaining every aspect of the situation I think you would get a lot more viewers but great job
Thanks man. If I get hate mail from the manufacturer's (lookin at you Energizer) it means I'm doing my job right.
When you have a completely isolated system, where do you think a ground is going to come from? For the Chinese inverter, the ground wire on the AC plug is wired to the chassis and through safety capacitors to the H and L side of the AC output.
That particular inverter is a 60volt split phase design, so making the negative battery common with the ground on the AC side is problematic.
If you want a ground on any truly isolated system, you need to pound a ground stake into the ground (like every house/business has).
To fix the ground fault issue, just connect the Neutral to the Ground wire inside the inverter. It’s called bonding. The Neutral and ground in your home electrical panel is bonded together, as well. So, this is not unusual and should not cause an issue. @ time 12:52.
Renogy is already bonded
Renogy is already bonded inside
I believe is the c44 circuit, just I little connection you can cut off
I went with the Giandel inverter as well. I am not an expert, just a DYI-er & I have found that even tech support at Giandel on ground issues, to be sparse. They basically said to use only the L & N terminals - "Our inverter generally only measures the voltage from the L to the N.
L = Hot wire
N = Neutral wire
G = Ground wire
Regards,
E
I’ve had a small Samlex inverter for over 10 years. It was made in the USA.
Not boring at all. Keep up the good work !!
I'd suggest a mpp pip solar charge controller inverter. It's mppt, can do lithium (future proofing for you), you could use you current batteries in 48v in series for better inverter efficiency. Also has grid input so you can charge the batteries and your car at the same time.
That could potentially save a lot of space. And make things a little simpler. It's something I'll consider moving foreward.
@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions My 24 VOLT Mpp INVERTER WAS JUNK.
@@hp1117 I was considering getting one of those. The lv2424. But the idle consumption is awful High
Looks like the dream setup for my 24 foot RV, except yours is in a car. I can honestly say now I've seen it all.
Renergy was giving you a line of bull. The application is no different than any other. An AC load is an AC load. Power factor is the only other variable, and if they have a problem with certain sorts of loads they should spec it.
Not boring at all, answered my questions from the earlier video. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your dreams, you are awesome! Hang in there, you sound like you know what you are doing. Keep strong brother
If you need a ground, a rod with a wire clamp and hammer will give you a good ground almost anywhere. The car is on 4 rubber wheels and NOT grounded. The shock lug is negative only. FYI glad you found the issue.
Air temperature outside the inverter is NOT the 158 degree rating.
What you need to realize is the HOT air outside the inverter allowed the PARTS INSIDE to exceed 158 degrees.
THAT is likely why it failed.
Also that 158 is APPROXIMATE, not EXACT.
The 158 is the temp of the critical parts.
The parts produced their own heat and simply added to the hot air in the car.
Ok the bright side, you don’t have to worry about cooling it off anymore. All the best!
Neutral and ground have to be bonded together for it to work, this is how your home fuse box is wired and is what these devices expect to see, check the manual on this one to see if it can be done safely. Connecting to the car battery, the negative of the battery etc wont be productive because neutral will still float above ground and will trip up protection circuits.
I think many people believe that "ground" is some magical place electricity wants to go. its not, electricity wants to return the current source it doesn't care about the earth unless the earth is a viable to the source. In Europe they smartened up and call it "Protective earth" rather than Ground which makes a lot more sense - the ground return is really an alternate path for current back to neutral when there is a fault.
You cannot cross neutral and ground together on these inverters, you can ground the case, otherwise you energized the case and most likely destroyed the inverter. Or you will run 120 to the battery's. In any case these inverters run power to both neutral and positive, they run with open ground, thats just the way they work.
No no no...⚡⚡
It was very useful. I am planning on buying another inverter but not sure if I should buy another KR inverter. Thanks for the advise. I will get a Giandel 4000w too.
I have same exact inverter( Renogy 3000w) Mine just randomly started doing this yesterday. It’s been great but I plugged in something as petty as a hot plate and it beeped instantly. I only have a new air 48qt freezer/refer cooler that draws power but it’s been fine for 5 months and doesn’t come anywhere close to 1500watts of use. So I have power to spare if I want to use it for a hot plate . So why not. But nope still shuts off. No voltage drop. All my set up has been fine . All my gear is brand new.
thanks for making it easier on the next person who wants to try this out
hi i will go with a the same reliable inverter but 48v or higher 60v and 220v out this will help run smooth and efficient, you can ask the seller to make you one in this config and re config your panels and batteries on series. i will look for the video i see on this. so you can get more info if you like, you doing a grate job. i love what you did i got a nissan leaf . my is 2013 i am ok at the moment but some day i will be in your shoes. lol continue your videos i just find you so i will like to see more, take care friend.
I have been working on charging my Nissan Leaf through a DIY lithium (18650) powerwall and had the same issue you are having with the grounding. The granny charger would not work with it directly connected to the inverter...BUT...when I run the inverter through my transfer switch that goes into my breaker box and plug my granny charger in one of the outlets connected to it I don't have any grounding issues and the charger works fine. I know this doesn't apply to how you are connecting it to your Leaf, but maybe somewhere in that example is an answer.
You have to take a 3 prong plug cut a old cord and twist the green and black wires together then plug that into inverter or a generator and it tricks whatever you are using to think its grounded.
I believe you need to run a jumper at the inverter plug between the ground and the neutral use a old plug and make your connection their.
Pretty rare that I login just to give kudos, but your videos are important. Way more important than anything we can watch from MrBeast etc. etc. etc.
Thanks. Before the car market went insane about a year back, and you could get used Leafs for 3 or 4 thousand dollars, it was a nice life hack to get a functional EV project car for under 10k
I highly suspect you are correct that the temp is the issue. I doubt they mean the room you put it in can be up to 159F. I think they mean that the device itself can get up to 159F before there are issues. And your STARTING temp is 128F in there. And once you start putting power through it it is probably going to heat up more than 30F. The fan can bleed some of that away but probably not enough. Just a guess though.
Try grounding the negative side of the battery to the vehicle and same thing with the inverter see what happens.
When using any Gas Generators , I always place in the ground a metal rod and connect the generator to it. Within a vehicle your on rubber tires. Within the vehicle not having contact with mother earth, the vehicle is made to compensate for this.
when adding other Ground sensitive devices put a metal or better copper stake in the mother earth, I have had this problem before. When you see semi trucks rolling down the road with rubber strips touching the road these are grounds they have metal strands in them to make ground, normally for gas haulers,Propane haulers etc. Hope this helps.
I have the three 3000 watt version and I use a laptop cooling pad that has 6 fans built into it and screwed the inverter to it works great.
I believe the grounding issue is because the US sockets is wrongly wired internally, someone else open it op and found out the Neutral and line is switched, so if you had wired it to the external screw terminal it might had worked. hope it Will help someone else.
"ground" is not your car's chassis unless your running the inverter off the cars "starter" battery, ground is also not the chassis of the inverter."ground" from your inverter setup is the negative terminal of your batteries connected to the inverter and it seems ground from the plug to the negative terminal on back of the inverter isnt connected inside the inverter so you can try to run a wire from the ground prong of your evse plug to the negative terminal on back of the inverter dont worry this will not damage anything. in order to confirm this disconnect the inverter and check continuity with a voltmeter between the negative terminal of the inverter and the ground prong of the 120v output plug on the inverter. plus sometimes the inside the inverters 120v plug will fail to make proper contacts
You need an Earth ground. Connect to a ground rod or metal water pipe.
This is not available as the inverter is inside of a car that is constantly moving, and the system needs to be deployable in 2 minutes or less.
I have seen the Reliable inverter cover off and the ground terminals of the two outlets are not wired to anything. Why they don`t wire the ground terminals of the outlets I can`t say but most inverter ground terminals are not wired . Your last inverter worked so it must be wired differently. I have seen this issue with most floating ground setups, both on inverters and generators. The hard wiring terminals on the inverter have the ground terminal. You may have been able to hook a pigtail to that connection but if that ground terminal is just wired to the case your ground faults on your appliances will not operate properly. Its good I viewed your video. I was going to use an inverter setup for emergency power but perhaps a small non inverter Generator is the way to go.
You might also try finding some grounding rod hook up to that and see what happens.
I was thinking the same thing. Chassis ground is different then Earth Ground
Great video mate thank you. Appreciate your feedback and advice
Each plug has a certain amount of max wattage. The hard wire connection is usually able to take the full wattage of the inverter. Use hard wire connection instead of plug. Another thing I've learned is that the fans work better blowing into the inverter instead of out. It's usually easy to flip them around. I've had less problems with heat after flipping the fans to blow into the inverter
Adding to the comment about the fan, if you use pc fans they are quieter and have proper bearings
@@dantronics1682 yes, the fans that came with my inverter sound like a jet taking off
Motomaster Eliminator 3000 is very good I have the 1100 watts work good 😊
The red yellow and black won't ground the unit. You have to pop the cover off and mess with the wiring system to get ground back because it's looped now
I have the puresineinverter by reliable in the video hooked it up tested it , worked great , put the unit on a trailer and moved it home , and in transport popped four of the internal fuses, pulled and replaced , simply hooked it up to the battery and it exploded and burnt more fuses
Sorry you have to deal with that headache. It really is sad how little pride people take in the products they manufacture these days. These companies dont realize the value of customer satisfaction. Giandel has a customer for life in me now. I have abused the hell outta their 12v and it has performed flawlessly.
A 12v DC air cooling module running a peltier junction would probably do the trick. These are cheap on eBay or banggood. Insulating the trunk and running the cooler on a thermostat would probably do the trick but you might need to deal with condensate. I don't know if you would need some other venting to cool it down if you insulate and it isn't hot enough in the car to need the DC cooling unit running.
To get 3500 watts from 12 volts, isn't likely. The current draw would be enormous.
I have 1500 watts @12 volts, and the current draw can get fairly high, as does the heat also.
I use 4/0 ga cable from the batteries to the inverter for that reason. But you're right about 3.5kw being a sub-deal wattage draw from a 12v bank. A 24v system may work better for a solar car, but you would have to be careful in how you connect the panels.
I had one of these inverters with the same problem - high voltage input error. What followed was absolutely zero output from the AC side, and nothing I could do would make it work again. What followed after that was me tossing a 24V 2500W inverter in the trash can.
My fathers car charger will not work on our Grow watt inverter, it is not grounded but maybe we could change that. This is an important aspect of this because many people now will want to charge their cars with solar and not know why they don't work. Solar ON the car is great but going to be difficult to get a kilowatt or more on there. A fold out panel from the roof that would cover the windshield would be nice, it should probably slide and that's a challenge.
Some inverters need a true ground. That is a metal stake driven into the earth 5 feet. I don't know why 5 feet, that was in the information I saw.
After having trouble with a cheap Inverter, I brought a Victron Multiplus. No more Problems an enoch power.
You have to take a 3 prong plug cut an old cord and twist the green and black wires together then plug that into inverter or a generator and it tricks whatever you are using to think its grounded.
Is that for real?
@@simonmasters3295 anyone can be an expert on the internet.. and.. others laugh
Hey, great video. Can we get an update on how the Giandel is doing? Thanks!
Just updated the pinned comment where I do updates. I actually just passed the 1 year mark of usage. Honestly, compared to everything else I've worked with (Renogy, Energizer, Reliable) the Giandel is a beast. 1 year with no problems, and that's in the trunk of a vehicle! Where it's constantly jostled, and the temperature swings from 30 degrees to 110. It's getting hooked up to the vehicle's DC-DC converter in my next video, so we can turn the vehicle in a mobile powerwall.
@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions Awesome. I'm looking forward to that video. Thanks for the reply!
I see that you used all three output terminals on the Giandel, when I do that, I only see 60v due to split phase. Giandel support sent this reply back to me concerning the ground terminal 'G'
Our inverter generally only measures the voltage from the L to the N.
L = Hot wire
N = Neutral wire
G = Ground wire
Regards,
Elsa
@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions
If it’s electric ⚡️ then the windows will even open 😮 so far it’s a nice sunny day
The charger is detecting that you have a floating neutral. Those chargers need neutral to have the same potential as the ground connection.
I do not know exactly how are inverters are grounded inside because I never tried opening one. One thing I can think of is the normal house wiring at 120v outlet is Hot, Neutral, and Ground. The thing is that neutral and ground are wired to the same grounding block in the electrical box of the house. Basically both neutral and ground are "grounded". One way I could think of is tying both ground and neutral together and it might solve the ground detect issue but even if it does work that may be very unsafe and may damage your inverter if not done right. Another possibility is the ground in the inverter might just be "chassis ground" that may not in any way be connected to the neutral side of inverter. Without taking the time opening the inverter up, I have no way to know.
I own this same invertor but instead of using the outlets, I hard wired directly into the three leads on the back of the unit and haven't had any problems.
If you intend to charge an EV with an inverter, it's important to consider the technology that's used in the inverter. High frequency, transformerless inverters provide a much lower surge capacity and a shorter life expectancy than heavy duty, low frequency, transformer-based inverters. Additionally. high frequency, transformerless inverters do not provide any galvanic isolation between its DC boost stage circuitry and its AC output which can allow high amperage DC current to pass through to your EV's onboard charger and damage it.
You may be able to use a high frequency inverter to charge an EV short term, but it would just a matter of time before the MOSFETs or IGBTs in this inverter fail and you can kiss your EV's onboard charger goodbye. A much better and safer choice if you want to charge your EV with solar is to use an inverter or power station that uses low frequency, transformer-based technology in its design. Low frequency inverters can handle high surge loads for at least 3x their continuous rated capacity and they can do this repeatedly, without sustaining damages to their MOSFET transistors, for minutes, rather than the milliseconds that a high frequency inverter offers. And because low frequency inverters use a transformer, they provide galvanic isolation which protects your EV's charger. That's why the big-name brand inverter manufacturers like Schneider Electric, Outback Power, Sigineer Power, Magnum Energy and Victron Energy and others, all use a low frequency topology in their design.
nice Anker for your boat
Nice little setup.
One thing to remember is the outlets will only handle 1500 watts each. To use it for 3500 watts you must hard wire it up to the terminals.
My first thought unfortunately has nothing to do with your electrical stuff, it's the weight of it on your rear struts all the time. Rolling around with stuff in your trunk all the time kills your struts faster, and those batteries are more than just some tools and regular junk ppl carry around.
I have a Krieger 2000W PSW inverter that I have with a 300W and 2 Redodo 100AH batteries as a solar battery back up in case of an emergency power outage. I have never ever needed to use it thus far and I only turn it on to charge power tool, flashlight and 18650 batteries 2 times a week. The thing is only 13 months old and today I went to turn it on and the light blinked quickly and then it just shut down and it is dead. I can't believe the crap quality of this unit that I paid almost $300 for and NEVER ran any appliances from it smh. I'll see what Krieger customer service says and how they handle the warranty, but I'm posting this as a buyer beware about Krieger inverters. Thanks for sharing your story.
One things we seen is that you can't use the plugs or in other countries a PowerPoint you must use those yellow and red and black screws to attach a plug to for high or large loads that was one thing we saw
Did you try samlex? I have a 2000w and it work really really good
Are your batteries registering above 12 V while you still get the inverter beep problem? I'd heard some ppl get this when the batteries are below 12V... ?
Get a Samlex, Cotek, or Magna SIne, or Outback. They aren't cheap, but they are worth saving for.
Its about the journey 👍
My inverter outputs 112 volts it used to be 122 like your is it going bad?
I am having Inverters problems also!!
I had issues like this with rubbish charge controllers/ overvoltage and had to set lower charge levels.
I finally found what I think will be a solid inverter. I'm using the Giandel 12v 4000w. And have had zero problems with it.
I hooked the red positive to the batteries black negative terminal accidentally for the second time. Blew not only the fuses again but the inverter wont work with new fuses. Nobody I know can fix them. Thats the second inverter my stupidity has ruined.
I have the same inverter 1500w. I can’t any power through the AC 3-prong port. My blue light is on. No red light. DC voltage is display is on. The AC output display is off. Any suggestions?
Those Victron lvd's are not designed to run inverters. Says on the site and manuals. Remove the lvd off the inverter.
The manual that came with it mentioned nothing of the sort, but I have heard they ship/have shipped with several manuals over the years. I was led astray by a video by DIY Solar w/ Will Prowse. He has since admitted in the pinned comment on that video that he was misled/mistaken in this part selection too, and he's an expert. Victron should have been more explicit in the distribution of this product IMO. I am still looking for a better Low-Voltage-Cutoff to be used directly between the batteries and inverter, let me know if you have any suggestions.
@@InnovativeSustainableSolutions Sterling Power ProLatch-R Relay. They are made for running large loads like inverters and they are marine grade. Hope this helps!
@@iankeegan5047 You are the third person to recommend this part to me. I will definitely be ordering one to try out for the suneater, and probably also for the home powerwall I want to build.
I figured there might be a lot of people reading this the vice I would give is to go 48 volt and go with low frequency inverter definitely most definitely low-frequency high frequency inverters are junk even the cheap power jack low frequency 48 volt inverters have very few problems with Power Jack are actually about half the wattage they say so if you get a power jack make sure to get double the wattage is what you actually need and get 48 volt low frequency and you will be happy
Wouldn't a 48 volt inverter necessitate a 48 volt battery bank, and hence a 48 volt solar panel system?
My experience is that high frequency inverters (like you have) for one are not as reliable as low frequency ones (bigger and heavier) plus that its made in china is probably the worst thing here as their quality control is often terrible and main reason for all the failures. If your not able to take these things apart and repair then better off spending more for better quality one.
99.99% of all electronics you can buy is made in China. There's nothing wrong with made in China under certain circumstances. It's obvious that these inverters aren't designed for the application he has in mind, but that doesn't mean they won't work for nearly everyone else who'd just be interested in using them for general household small appliances.
I believe this inverter has a centre tapped ground. By this I mean that the line and neutral connections are both at 60 volts above ground potential, do you have a multimeter to check this. If you don't have a meter to test this use an ordinary tungsten mains bulb, connect one terminal to the inverter ground connection and the other to the neutral. If it lights up then try connecting the wire you connected to the neutral to the line connection. This should light the bulb to the same reduced brightness, if it does then this would confirm a centre tapped earth. In your home the neutral connector is at ground potential and I would think that your charger is not working because it is not detecting a zero or very low voltage on the ground connection with respect to the neutral. If you have an isolating transformer 120 volts in and 120 volts out (but no electrical connection between the two windings, hence isolating transformer) you would connect the inverter to one winding and on the other winding you would ground one connection and connect both the earth and neutral to this connection and the line terminal to the other connection this would work, but if you had to buy one then there is yet another cost. From what I've read these are a very good inverter. Best regards Ray.
Talk about the earth ground yellow if this is a separately derived system the grounded conductor black is nutural and the grounding conductor yellow why are they not tied together.🤔
Hi there I have reviewed a lot of inverters for The purpose of buying one from my own campervan in my view all the Chinese inverters are cheaply made and not properly quality controlled from my view then burgers are prone to not work from the very start like you said and I have seen them actually going up on fire so beware about this Chinese converters be better off getting a proper name brand like a German made one Krieger
I was completely unprepared for how much garbage I had to sort through to find a good one. The Giandel 4kw has been great. I'll need a good 24v next year when I redesign the system to a higher voltage. I'll check out Krieger.
But the vehicle frame is not an earth it's a Negative rail I would think
If you diverted fault current to the frame
If you held your car and stepped out
You would present an earth path and could be electrocuted
Just as you would if live power lines were on your car
That's my thoughts anyway
That's a good observation. Although the grounding terminal of inverters of this nature is very rarely charge conducting under normal operation. I eventually disconnected the system from the vehicle frame, went with an isolated ground bypass with a fuse. It would be interesting to test the vehicle frame to ground with a multimeter under fault and see if you could get 120VAC. That would be a little scary.
Uh.... I could be wrong but your battery bank.... is the positive and the negative battery cables coming from the same Battery...? Try to run one or the other (+ or -) from a battery at the opposite end of the Battery Bank from the other lead.....? In other words... have the Positive Cable from the most far left Battery and run the Negative Cable from the most right Battery.....?
12:54 The Ground only the ground of that car, it is not Earth if this is what is required, rubber tires insulate
Ground AC? One side? This is an idiotic requirement some electronics manufacturers want and demand. You have a floating ground. No connection to the third prong. Some old circuits assumed center tap. A voltage half way between the two prongs. ( good ) . AC usually is delivered as 1/2 of a 220 volt AC circuit. It's center tap and one side. Electricians aren't the brightest bulbs.
Anything like that I would only buy it if its made in America or Japan. I do buy things from china but if they connect to the mains I take it apart and make sure the line,neutral and ground are correctly connected. Many times they are reversed or not hooked up. One time the line and neutral was reversed in the power cord itself. It costs more to buy from America or Japan but you have a better chance of it working.
Hola amigo muchas gracias por tu video, tengo una pregunta, tus baterías están conectadas en paralelo?
Y qué tipo de baterías tienes?
Lo siento no hablo inglés
Hi I'm a technician, the problem is the charge regulator, you have to replace it and mount an MPPT the counter is not accurate, the output voltage is high
For what it's worth, I didn't find this boring
Isn't a refrigerator one of riskiest loads for interim components to bare? Conversely a battery charger one of the safest?
aa nwm it is too late anyway. But i think you can fix it by shorting ground wire to neutral wire. this way ..that charger should be able detect ground and also it has nothing to do with ground as such s connecting ground on inverter to minus pol of car (whole chassis actually) will change nothing. Only mess things up..
i have two Reliable Electric 2000 watt pure sine wave inverters. There is a ground terminal in the terminal strip on the right.. Center terminal is ground if I remember correctly (the manual is on another floor). You can check that by taking the cover off and seeing where the ground terminal on the AC outlet is wired to. Then run your wire from there to vehicle ground, although the charger may be looking for a REAL ground connection which is only available with a connection to the actual Earth - that's another engineering issue.
There are two schools of thought on grounding inverter cases. One says the case ground is also the power ground and is always used and the other school says the case ground is never used for power ground. I can see both arguments but it's a hassle for those who don't know that there are differences in manufacturer ideas or how to work around those differences.
There is a chap who sells battery and he was trying to use an electric truck to charge a tesla, he had to use an adapter which have a resistor between the neutral and earth pin before the tesla would charge. II wasnt paying much attention so cant give more info. it looks like you are use a pwm solar controller
A copper rod with connected wire to shove into the ground when stationary is a TRUE EARTH CONNECTION
It is normal for tor the red light to blink.
I sold inverters and operated a factory authorized inverter repair shop for over 18 years. Your mistake was purchasing Chinese engineered, Chinese made inverters. They're all crap, Buy U.S. designed, U.S. manufactured inverters if you want reliability and performance.
I went through several, and they were all, well crap. Did you ever come across an inverter that could handle a 400v input to 120VAC output at 6kw+? I'm currently tinkering with trying to make an electric vehicle battery pack accessible as a mobil powerwall and the best I got is running a 12v inverter off the battery under the hood (which the vehicles internal DC converter charges but only at about 2kw)
Put a radian 4048a in there, that'll keep things going 😜.
I always wonder if its just better to pony up and pay for a Victron Energy inverter. All these other Amazon brands seem like cheap electronics rated well by average people in reviews that have little experience or comparisons. Interesting with the grounded issues you had, there is no earth ground on any power stations or inverters I've seen so how can it be grounded at all. Its not and cant be the safest thing if something goes wrong.