I've had several of both and prefer the no letter and A to the B as well. You got one of the good B's. The cleaning needles control the flames on both models. The A and no letter with the dual control have the straight line eccentric block and short needle, the B has a long tiny thin wire running through a tiny thin tube inside a coil inside the outer generator tube. On the good ones, like yours, the wire/needle slides smoothly throughout its range of motion. The not so good ones are very touchy to control. But they can be "tuned". 1. Sometimes the wire at the control isn't quite straight in line with the crimped brass hook that goes into the eccentric block on the main valve and wants to flex like a knee joint instead of remaining rigid in a straght line and the wire downstream of this knee bend will remain stationary as the valve moves until the knee springs back and suddenly moves the wire past where you wanted it to go. So it moves in fits and starts. This can be remedied by tweaking the wire into a straight line with the hook body. 2. There can be burrs and poor fitment with the crimped hook and eccentric block hole, or the hook may protrude too far through the hole catching on the valve body at the flare connection. These can be filed down and polished for smoother operation. 3. On the other end, the wire may not come out of the generator tube centered into the gas tip. This can also be tweaked into correct position. 4. And then sometimes some knucklehead kinked the wire and forced it into the tube where it will give the same action as the first scenario. Again, though, it can be straightened out. Just be gentle with it. I've had girlfriends with hair thicker than that wire. Better to sneak up on it with small tweaks than to over tweak it the other way. Hope this helps someone out there. And don't throw these generators away when you replace them. Send them to me..... Haha!
Both have a cleaner, it's a small wire running through the generator that cleans the small orifice at the end of the generator. One has a separate lever the other the wire is actuated by turning the flame up and down, just part of the lever mechanism. All coleman liquid stoves of this type have a wire for cleaning.
I bought the 400 new, made in10/79. I never took it backpacking because of the weight and bulk. I always packed with a Phoebus 725. But....the Coleman simmers and the Phoebus does not. However, for $39 a guy makes a burner for the Phoebus that lets it simmer.....very cool.
Wow, I didn't know anyone was counting grams back in 79! haha! When I read that I had to go weigh my 400A full of fuel. Came in at 853g. What's a Phoebus weigh as packed and full? I've only picked up one, ever, at an antique store with nothing to compare it to in the store. Don't remember it being light, or heavy either. How do they compare in your opinion to the Svea123 all around?
@mikemorgan5015 one if my favorite stoves of all time , very light and a perfect design, mu only complaint is the simmer can be choppy and often hard to hold at really low heat .
That’s funny that you mentioned a Phobos 725 about two years ago I found one absolutely complete at the Goodwill store here in Yuma Arizona, for seven dollars. It works like a champ. It roars like a lion but it’ll get the job done quick I love it I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
Old Coleman parts web site probably, you could also make a leather replacement, there are some good - how to - videos available, I would rather have a leather one .
@@doinsngoins I'll say, nowadays your money ahead buy the whole stove vs a generator. I got a couple off of thebay when they were still cheap as chips. Wish I would have gotten a hundred of them at 4 buck apiece. Cut to Homer Simpson, "Doh!!!" Hope you still have the old one. They are very restorable.
@@mikemorgan5015 agreed, I buy these every time I see them , never yet had a bad generator yet, ever see people unbend and rebuild them ? People do ? It's pretty cool
@@doinsngoins I've never had to go that far with them, nor would I risk trying it unless I couldn't get it to work, which, knock on wood, hasn't happened yet. The torch and air trick has solved every generator problem I've had. I've fabricated generators from parts and brass tubing, but not one of these. I once bent up a Milspec lantern generator to get an inverted "donut" lantern working. It was an ugly proof of concepts hatchet job, but it worked really well. I posted that little escapade on Coleman Collectors Forum years ago under the name Toonsgt.
@mikemorgan5015 says allot, I jave never picked up one with a bed generator either, I would attempt this repair unless it was an emergency, good to know it can be done .
Hi Steve, my name is Wayne. I’m from Yuma Arizona. I just had a quick question. I don’t know if you’ll be able to help me or not. I just acquired a Coleman peak one 400 stove absolutely in great shape but there’s a little rod on the side that controls the heights of the flame and simmer, but the graphite beads that shit on the inside of that are gone. How and where do I replace those for this model please help much appreciate it in advance.
@@doinsngoins When I took the little lever out the graphite, beads or whatever they are completely crumbled, so what happens is it just swings from left to right and just leaks right out the bottom of the the lever that allows it to light or to clean I don’t know how to replace the packing beads that are on those rods
@@doinsngoins Yeah, and the little round graphite, little rods, or whatever they are that are on that Shafter basically nonexistent so I don’t know where to find something like that or is there some other kind of packing I can use that to make sure there’s no leaks coming out from the bottom of that little rod
They sure look the same but I don't think so , I will pull both of mine out this weekend and look , might need to remind me ok ! Have you tried to clean your generator?
I just bought the fonts only for the 400b and 508. Im just looking for 508 valve, generator, and regulator. Regulator is impossible to find cheap. So i was thinking i could make it like the 400b / 508A with no regulator. It seem like the burner box are the same 400-5261. Thank you for the help if you can.
@@paduag1782 I see , that's a cool project, never would have thought to try that ,the generators unfortunately for both models are like hens teeth and $$$$ .
I've had several of both and prefer the no letter and A to the B as well. You got one of the good B's. The cleaning needles control the flames on both models. The A and no letter with the dual control have the straight line eccentric block and short needle, the B has a long tiny thin wire running through a tiny thin tube inside a coil inside the outer generator tube. On the good ones, like yours, the wire/needle slides smoothly throughout its range of motion. The not so good ones are very touchy to control. But they can be "tuned".
1. Sometimes the wire at the control isn't quite straight in line with the crimped brass hook that goes into the eccentric block on the main valve and wants to flex like a knee joint instead of remaining rigid in a straght line and the wire downstream of this knee bend will remain stationary as the valve moves until the knee springs back and suddenly moves the wire past where you wanted it to go. So it moves in fits and starts. This can be remedied by tweaking the wire into a straight line with the hook body.
2. There can be burrs and poor fitment with the crimped hook and eccentric block hole, or the hook may protrude too far through the hole catching on the valve body at the flare connection. These can be filed down and polished for smoother operation.
3. On the other end, the wire may not come out of the generator tube centered into the gas tip. This can also be tweaked into correct position.
4. And then sometimes some knucklehead kinked the wire and forced it into the tube where it will give the same action as the first scenario. Again, though, it can be straightened out. Just be gentle with it. I've had girlfriends with hair thicker than that wire. Better to sneak up on it with small tweaks than to over tweak it the other way.
Hope this helps someone out there. And don't throw these generators away when you replace them. Send them to me..... Haha!
Great feedback thank you , I did not know this 😀
Mike this Narative is gold
Great stoves to have in the collection.
Thanks for sharing and God bless.
Both have a cleaner, it's a small wire running through the generator that cleans the small orifice at the end of the generator. One has a separate lever the other the wire is actuated by turning the flame up and down, just part of the lever mechanism. All coleman liquid stoves of this type have a wire for cleaning.
Thank you Kevin!
I bought the 400 new, made in10/79. I never took it backpacking because of the weight and bulk. I always packed with a Phoebus 725. But....the Coleman simmers and the Phoebus does not. However, for $39 a guy makes a burner for the Phoebus that lets it simmer.....very cool.
That is awesome 👌 yes simmer to me is very important. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, I didn't know anyone was counting grams back in 79! haha! When I read that I had to go weigh my 400A full of fuel. Came in at 853g. What's a Phoebus weigh as packed and full? I've only picked up one, ever, at an antique store with nothing to compare it to in the store. Don't remember it being light, or heavy either.
How do they compare in your opinion to the Svea123 all around?
@mikemorgan5015 one if my favorite stoves of all time , very light and a perfect design, mu only complaint is the simmer can be choppy and often hard to hold at really low heat .
That’s funny that you mentioned a Phobos 725 about two years ago I found one absolutely complete at the Goodwill store here in Yuma Arizona, for seven dollars. It works like a champ. It roars like a lion but it’ll get the job done quick I love it I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
I also have a seven. 123
Nice! Any idea where we can get a pump rubber?
Old Coleman parts web site probably, you could also make a leather replacement, there are some good - how to - videos available, I would rather have a leather one .
@@doinsngoins Agree....Old Coleman Parts most likely or make your own with a good tutorial the first time.
where did you get that new generator? I have been unable to find one anywhere.
Oh man , I just happened to run across one at a yard sale still on the hard card. Got lucky.
@@doinsngoins I'll say, nowadays your money ahead buy the whole stove vs a generator. I got a couple off of thebay when they were still cheap as chips. Wish I would have gotten a hundred of them at 4 buck apiece. Cut to Homer Simpson, "Doh!!!" Hope you still have the old one. They are very restorable.
@@mikemorgan5015 agreed, I buy these every time I see them , never yet had a bad generator yet, ever see people unbend and rebuild them ? People do ? It's pretty cool
@@doinsngoins I've never had to go that far with them, nor would I risk trying it unless I couldn't get it to work, which, knock on wood, hasn't happened yet. The torch and air trick has solved every generator problem I've had. I've fabricated generators from parts and brass tubing, but not one of these. I once bent up a Milspec lantern generator to get an inverted "donut" lantern working. It was an ugly proof of concepts hatchet job, but it worked really well. I posted that little escapade on Coleman Collectors Forum years ago under the name Toonsgt.
@mikemorgan5015 says allot, I jave never picked up one with a bed generator either, I would attempt this repair unless it was an emergency, good to know it can be done .
Hi Steve, my name is Wayne. I’m from Yuma Arizona. I just had a quick question. I don’t know if you’ll be able to help me or not. I just acquired a Coleman peak one 400 stove absolutely in great shape but there’s a little rod on the side that controls the heights of the flame and simmer, but the graphite beads that shit on the inside of that are gone. How and where do I replace those for this model please help much appreciate it in advance.
So the packing is allowing fuel to escape from this point , how much fuel, I'm curious 🤔
@@doinsngoins When I took the little lever out the graphite, beads or whatever they are completely crumbled, so what happens is it just swings from left to right and just leaks right out the bottom of the the lever that allows it to light or to clean I don’t know how to replace the packing beads that are on those rods
If you haven't taken it apart yet dont ok, , let me know
Oh, sorry, I see, you did take it apart
@@doinsngoins Yeah, and the little round graphite, little rods, or whatever they are that are on that Shafter basically nonexistent so I don’t know where to find something like that or is there some other kind of packing I can use that to make sure there’s no leaks coming out from the bottom of that little rod
Is the generator / valve of the 400b compatible with the 508
They sure look the same but I don't think so , I will pull both of mine out this weekend and look , might need to remind me ok ! Have you tried to clean your generator?
I just bought the fonts only for the 400b and 508. Im just looking for 508 valve, generator, and regulator. Regulator is impossible to find cheap. So i was thinking i could make it like the 400b / 508A with no regulator. It seem like the burner box are the same 400-5261. Thank you for the help if you can.
@@paduag1782 I see , that's a cool project, never would have thought to try that ,the generators unfortunately for both models are like hens teeth and $$$$ .
Maybe 502 parts ? Simmer capability is very important to me ...
Frankenstove it 🤔🤔🤔… for sure. Gotta see how to do the pluming. That really sounds cool.
Mine is the 400 b