Thanks Terry, this series was definitely interesting and informative. I really liked the way you finished with allowing your viewers to "wing it" and not having to be a chemist to make some caps. Great job and please keep up your videos no matter what subject you choose, thanks again.
Funny you should say that because I DO, in fact, have some barium nitrate laying around. I need a better scale, though. Also, it's good to tie everything up with a bow. Great work!
Yes, self initiation with tetrazene alone is poor, bulk density is too low. You did great work with this series, but if you have a go at it again look into FA-70, SINOXID, and the Kenny clathrates (EPM8).
Thank you for all your experiments, hard work and most importantly, sharing your knowledge. Watching all the videos in this playlist and just left wondering what you settled on as a final hardner for your T024 mixture? Duco, nail polish or something else? Maybe I didn't watch hard enough, hah! Thought about making a summation video? Condense all of this information of your experiments and findings into one concise video as an instruction tool? Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed watching it all...just throwing it out there.
A condensed version could be a good idea to do on a cold rainy weekend sometime! But to answer your question I use a lacquer made by dissolving smokeless powder in acetone. It's worked great with every formula I've tried so far.
Yeah, I get how time consuming making these videos could be and you already did go over everything. If nothing else maybe for the ADDers out there. Hah. Ah yes, I seem to remember you saying that, about the smokeless. Thank you!
I know questions, do you have any early ideas on possible shelf life issues even over just short term or even just wild ass guesses? Mostly just curosity but maybe an Idea to work from for knowing if you could make up enough for a match a couple weeks ahead. Any help would be appreciated. Still watching all videos.
My advice with all explosives is never make it unless you really need it, only make it as you need it, and use all you make as you make it. I never 'store' anything except the ingredients to make it. But with primers I wouldn't worry about a couple of weeks, especially with copper percussion caps. A couple of years maybe.
@@schinderiapraemeturus6239 that's not accurate but feel free to eat some. They're not in the same league of toxicity as azides but they're still toxic.
Just one Question, have you found any more information on whether TO-24 is corrosive or not or mildly so? I am more interested in this compound than say H -48 which we know is corrosive. Thank you for your development work and especially your reporting of your findings. By the by I noticed your note to @Dug in his comment section.
Anything containing chlorates or perchlorates is corrosive. Unfortunately it's either that or lead, like lead styphnate. The perfect lead free non corrosive primer is the holy grail of primers.
@@timesgonetech3057this is what I'm using- Patent: WO1995015298A1 Trying to work out the kinks with paste loading this recipe, but the dry loaded primers have so far worked 100%. I'm loading SP/SR/LP/LRs and 209s with this the formulation.
Can we use quartz or other crystals to create a primitive piezoelectric igniter under the principle of piezoelectricity? I wonder if we can use it on a muzzleloader.
CVA created a muzzle-loading rifle with electric ignition in 2020. But it was not in demand and sales dropped to zero. If you use black powder, a plasma lighter will work for you.
@@iobey No. They used pyrotechnic-type electric ignition in their rifle. It turns out that you are using a disposable igniter primer. Buyers didn't like this. There is only one manufacturer, there is no competition and the price is high. And the logistics for delivering these products are also weak.
@@timesgonetech3057so, fill dry, add dissolved in acetone double base, and is that it? Is it then waterproof? Or do you add anything else after it has dried to make it more waterproofish? Thanks!
So just to clarify on subject of water resistance.. You use a drop of the double base powder acetone mix on the dry applied cap powder - let that cure 24hours - then add a second drop. Do I understand correctly that helps with exposure to water and high humidity?
@@deandeann1541 it might be. Potassium nitrate isn't really appreciably hygroscopic but it is slightly. Sodium and ammonium nitrates are really hygroscopic.
Thanks Terry, this series was definitely interesting and informative. I really liked the way you finished with allowing your viewers to "wing it" and not having to be a chemist to make some caps. Great job and please keep up your videos no matter what subject you choose, thanks again.
You just keep rambling on!
I enjoy your video's!!!
And thanks again. 🤠👍
Terry,,Please make a kit and i will buy it !!!
Excellent series, thank you for doing this research.
Thank you for posting and thank you for the information. I hope you continue with your experiments and are as successful with those projects also
Please publish that part 3 video. Even if it’s redundant, it lets people watch a nice compact series instead of searching for other videos
Funny you should say that because I DO, in fact, have some barium nitrate laying around.
I need a better scale, though.
Also, it's good to tie everything up with a bow. Great work!
@@rre9121 so do I. Doh! :-)
Ramble on, ramble on.
Could be that the ground glass is interfering with it. I also wonder if going down to a mix of just iNAP, Tetrazene, and Sulfur would be reliable too.
I would have thought the glue in the cardboard would interfere with it. Very intetesting...
I knew there had to be something other than fulminate of mercury.Or lead Styphanite hope I got that right. Shalom
I think anything you come up with will be interesting my friend. Take care and stay safe.
Yes, self initiation with tetrazene alone is poor, bulk density is too low. You did great work with this series, but if you have a go at it again look into FA-70, SINOXID, and the Kenny clathrates (EPM8).
I enjoyed watching your videos and i do appreciate all that was shared with us
Fun video and a lot safer than using highly sensitive things like metallic Picrates
They're not that sensitive. Mostly Hollywood myth...
@@timesgonetech3057I like you but suggest that if you intend to make copper picrate, do it in batches much smaller than 1 gram to test your theory
@@Jagdtyger2A I will keep that in mind. :-)
Damn that's alot of the devils lettuce
We call it bamboo.
@timesgonetech3057 yeah we called it bamboo or Thai sticks in the Bronx in the 90s also
Thank you for all your experiments, hard work and most importantly, sharing your knowledge.
Watching all the videos in this playlist and just left wondering what you settled on as a final hardner for your T024 mixture? Duco, nail polish or something else? Maybe I didn't watch hard enough, hah!
Thought about making a summation video? Condense all of this information of your experiments and findings into one concise video as an instruction tool? Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed watching it all...just throwing it out there.
A condensed version could be a good idea to do on a cold rainy weekend sometime! But to answer your question I use a lacquer made by dissolving smokeless powder in acetone. It's worked great with every formula I've tried so far.
Yeah, I get how time consuming making these videos could be and you already did go over everything. If nothing else maybe for the ADDers out there. Hah.
Ah yes, I seem to remember you saying that, about the smokeless.
Thank you!
I know questions, do you have any early ideas on possible shelf life issues even over just short term or even just wild ass guesses? Mostly just curosity but maybe an Idea to work from for knowing if you could make up enough for a match a couple weeks ahead. Any help would be appreciated. Still watching all videos.
My advice with all explosives is never make it unless you really need it, only make it as you need it, and use all you make as you make it. I never 'store' anything except the ingredients to make it. But with primers I wouldn't worry about a couple of weeks, especially with copper percussion caps. A couple of years maybe.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for doing this, just please be careful with the toxicity of things like tetrazine.
Always!
Neither tetrazene, nor amino-guanidine salts- are toxic in any way.
@@schinderiapraemeturus6239 that's not accurate but feel free to eat some. They're not in the same league of toxicity as azides but they're still toxic.
Just one Question, have you found any more information on whether TO-24 is corrosive or not or mildly so? I am more interested in this compound than say H -48 which we know is corrosive. Thank you for your development work and especially your reporting of your findings. By the by I noticed your note to @Dug in his comment section.
Anything containing chlorates or perchlorates is corrosive. Unfortunately it's either that or lead, like lead styphnate. The perfect lead free non corrosive primer is the holy grail of primers.
@@timesgonetech3057this is what I'm using-
Patent: WO1995015298A1
Trying to work out the kinks with paste loading this recipe, but the dry loaded primers have so far worked 100%. I'm loading SP/SR/LP/LRs and 209s with this the formulation.
I noticed that you list ground glass for all options in this video. Are you now filling caps with dry powder?
Yes. With iNap and tetrazene I got inconsistant results using the slurry.
@@timesgonetech3057 doses the size of the ground glass matter?
@@phillipanderson3715 I dunno. I just use 'fine' ground. I buy it from Amazon.
Can we use quartz or other crystals to create a primitive piezoelectric igniter under the principle of piezoelectricity? I wonder if we can use it on a muzzleloader.
Don't know. Interesting idea though.
CVA created a muzzle-loading rifle with electric ignition in 2020. But it was not in demand and sales dropped to zero. If you use black powder, a plasma lighter will work for you.
@@pyrotechnicSAR Is it because of unreliable ignition?
@@iobey No. They used pyrotechnic-type electric ignition in their rifle. It turns out that you are using a disposable igniter primer. Buyers didn't like this. There is only one manufacturer, there is no competition and the price is high. And the logistics for delivering these products are also weak.
@@iobey ruclips.net/video/aMLXXMVeQak/видео.html
May I assume your final procedure used the acetone with the Duco nitrocellulose Cement? How much of that do you mix with acetone?
I don't use Duco. I dissolve 1 tbsp double base smokess powder in 250 ml acetone.
Thank you. I’ll experiment with Duco and I might try a mix with TiteGroup double base powder because that’s what I have on hand.
I’ll also experiment between using copper and aluminum for cup material
@@timesgonetech3057so, fill dry, add dissolved in acetone double base, and is that it? Is it then waterproof? Or do you add anything else after it has dried to make it more waterproofish? Thanks!
So just to clarify on subject of water resistance.. You use a drop of the double base powder acetone mix on the dry applied cap powder - let that cure 24hours - then add a second drop. Do I understand correctly that helps with exposure to water and high humidity?
Make videos I'll buy em.
Why barium nitrate vs. potassium nitrate?
I've never tried potassium nitrate. I suppose it could work but all commercial priners use barium. Try it and let us know!
It's a double nitrate (NO3)2, and carries more oxygen than single nitrates NO3 like potassium nitrate KNO3.
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 I believe barium nitrate is also less hygroscopic.
@@deandeann1541 it might be. Potassium nitrate isn't really appreciably hygroscopic but it is slightly. Sodium and ammonium nitrates are really hygroscopic.