Thank you so much for uploading this . One of my light bulb at the rpm wasn’t functioning anymore and had to replace it . Good i found this vid . All the best
Could you please explain how you did this? Also, they are LEDs on the PCB, right? Mine are flashing every now and then and I would like to fix it myself
Skinuo sam tablu na meganu 3 zbog led dioda na obrtometru motora. Od tada mi ne pokazuje brzinu motora. Da li mozda znate u cemu je problem? Da li mozda trebam jace da pritisnem skalu obrtometra ili mizda nesto drugo? Bas sambio pozljiv prilikom skidanja i namestanja.
Thank you for your video. It's really clear the way you do it. I have a problem with the central part where the fuel level, the water temperature, open doors and real speed is shown. I can not see these clearly or completely, they seems to be vanished or incomplete (I mean the digital display). In your video every sign or digit is seen clear on the central digital screeen. Can you suggest me something to do or how can I repear it? I guess there can be something with the humidity, when I'm driving for a long time the digits looks better bot not as in the begining. thanks again Goran
Год назад+1
Hi Ervin, thanks for the praise. What you say seems like either a cold soldering of the display or just a faulty display. There is another video from a Russian guy (as far as I can remember, don't hold my word for it) of complete instrument cluster disassembly - but without removing it from the dashboard. You can try and change the instrument cluster if that's the issue or simply send to electrician for checkout and repair. I just wanted to show people how they can remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard.
Super video! Na mom Megane 3 karavanu su nestali zvukovi za žmigavce, sva 4, nevezani pojas i sl. Da li možda znaš gdje bi bio problem i koje je rješenje? Da li je do tog malog zvučnika kojeg spominju po internetu i ako je gdje se on nalazi? Hvala puno i lijepi pozdrav
11 месяцев назад+1
Zdravo Mario, nažalost nemam nikakve lepe vesti za tebe jer nisam imao tih problema uopšte. Malo sam istražio, pokušaj i ti - navodno je problem ili u samom zvučniku ili u zadnjem centralnom zaključavanju pojaseva, navodno tamo ima senzor koji pravi problem. Da li je i šta je, stvarno ne bih znao... I hvala na komentaru!!!
@@juhaeske Not yet but i think im close to. I've found info, that buzzer is located inside a instrument cluster. You need to buy used instrument cluster, open it and take buzzer from used one to yours. You can also buy and replace whole instrument cluster but it is a bit harder, becouse the new one must have lower course than in yours. Then you need to change it in on your current value by CLIP. The new one also must be compatible to your's engine version. Good luck bro!
@@kubagit002 I opened instrument cluster and resistance of speaker t is 1-2 Mohms instead of 50ohms written in speaker. That is really easy to repair. I just ordered few miniature speakers, only 3-4 euros each. Let's see how this goes.
@@kubagit002 There is flat cable for LCD panel. You have to be veryvery careful when lifting PCB up. Open as little as possible to reach soldering points! You might loose some elements in LCD and it will be tricky to get flat cable pressed against contacts again.
@@juhaeske Hell yeah, finally i've had some time to fix it and its working again. For me a bit too quiet, but still better than completly quiet. Or maybe it is possible to make it louder somehow?
Thank you. I have a failing bulb on my instrument panel, and I was considering taking it to the garage as I thought it would take a lot removing the dash to get to that one bulb. But if it's that easy to do I will try it.
No, but they're hand made by myself according to the instructions provided in the description of the video. There's a look and shape of the tool used, so you can see what I'm talking about.
Da li se moze staviti od gt line instrumental tabla umjesto ove digitalne? Hvala vam
Месяц назад
@@anix1398 Iskreno, ne bih znao. Pretpostavka je da može, ali samo to - pretpostavka... Inače, ovo i jeste bio GT Line model, ali je Renault u te početne godine stavljao najčešće digitalnu, neki kasniji modeli 2013, pa nadalje i 2014 i kasnije do Megana 4 su imali kompletnu analogne obrtomere.
Hvala Kako vas sluzu auto. Kod mene je 1.9dci 2010. Ekstra se pokazao
Месяц назад
@@anix1398 Prošlo vreme, služio je do pre dve godine kada je prodat. Za svojih 6 godina eksploatacije 1.5dCi je radio sjajno. Motor nijedan problem, nikakav. Nema gde nas nije odveo, nigde ostavio, sjajan auto iako možda malo dosadan...
Hvala puno na i vise nego korisnom klipu. Imam dva pitanja. Da li ti je poznato, zbog cega dolazi do treperenja osvetljenja obrtomera? Da li je u pitanju dotrajalost sijalica ili je mozda u pitanju los lem?
4 года назад
Verovatno su LE diode pri izdisaju. Rastavljanje ne bi trebalo da bude previše teško, ali jeste pipavo, pogotovo oko flat kabla za ekran brzinomera.
Imam slicno pitanje druze na obrnometru mi konstanto svetli broj 4,5 i skala za obrtaja ostali brojevi se nekad nekad upale i sve radi normalno pa se opet izgubi da li su u pitanji te diode ili mozda neki kontakt?Hvala:)
I ja imam sličan problem. Nekad donji deo oko 1 i 2 ne radi, nekad gornji oko 4 i 5, nekad ceo panel sa brojevima radi, a nekad ne radi ništa. Ovo ne utiče na kazaljku, ona uvek svetli. Tačno vidim kad prestane neka od lampica da radi. Mislio sam da je do temperature, ali nema pravila kad prestaje sa radom i vraća se u život. Niko od majstora ne želi da se bakće sa ovim jer je pipavo i iziskuje vreme.
Pa... od nekog tanjeg metala, koji se ne može tako preterano lako saviti. Može i tanji aluminijum samo ukoliko je solidno čvrst, da nije previše mekan. Imaš ovde iz uputstva za Megane 3 i kako izgledaju - pa možeš uporediti sa mojom "malom privredom": megane-iii.blogspot.com/p/speedo-cluster-removal.html
koje su dimenzije tog lima? i jel treba da se otpoji akumulator prije?
4 года назад+2
Ulazna širina ovih metalnih delova je oko 7.5mm, njihova debljina oko 1mm, može i za nijansu deblje, a dužina oko 3-4cm do zakrivljenja. Mora da ima i to koleno da bi mogli lepo da uđe a da ne zagrebe gornji deo table (providni deo i hrom okvir). Kada se ugura, a mora mali jače da se ugura, tabla se uhvati za okvir i lagano izvlači napolje. Bitno je samo da se izvuče instrument tabla lagano, malo po malo, levo pa desno. Volan spustiti skroz dole i odaljiti maksimalno od table da imaš bolji pristup. Skinuo sam džek sa table bez skidanja kleme sa akumulatora, jedina posledica bila je da se resetovala potrošnja goriva.
@ hvala puno na brzom odgovoru iako je video star. Kako si bio ili si jos uvek zadovoljan sa tim motorom i kako se kretala gradska potrosnja. Hvala jos jednom
Год назад+1
@@zoran.curcic Prezadovoljan baš, mala potrošnja i pouzdan motor totalno. Motor NIJEDAN problem za 6 godina, samo filteri i ulje, tj redovan servis. Otvoreno oko 5l, autoput oko 5,8, grad nešto više ali opet ovo sve prethodno je glavno.
Thanks Goran, perfect in every way.
Thank you so much for uploading this . One of my light bulb at the rpm wasn’t functioning anymore and had to replace it . Good i found this vid . All the best
Thanks, glad the video was helpful to you ;)
Could you please explain how you did this? Also, they are LEDs on the PCB, right?
Mine are flashing every now and then and I would like to fix it myself
Can you please tell me what type of bulbs are there?
@@1Bertas1 did you find out?
@@jucaspt no, i think they will be some small LED hard to replace 😀
Skinuo sam tablu na meganu 3 zbog led dioda na obrtometru motora. Od tada mi ne pokazuje brzinu motora. Da li mozda znate u cemu je problem? Da li mozda trebam jace da pritisnem skalu obrtometra ili mizda nesto drugo? Bas sambio pozljiv prilikom skidanja i namestanja.
Thank you for your video. It's really clear the way you do it. I have a problem with the central part where the fuel level, the water temperature, open doors and real speed is shown. I can not see these clearly or completely, they seems to be vanished or incomplete (I mean the digital display). In your video every sign or digit is seen clear on the central digital screeen.
Can you suggest me something to do or how can I repear it? I guess there can be something with the humidity, when I'm driving for a long time the digits looks better bot not as in the begining.
thanks again Goran
Hi Ervin, thanks for the praise. What you say seems like either a cold soldering of the display or just a faulty display. There is another video from a Russian guy (as far as I can remember, don't hold my word for it) of complete instrument cluster disassembly - but without removing it from the dashboard. You can try and change the instrument cluster if that's the issue or simply send to electrician for checkout and repair. I just wanted to show people how they can remove the instrument cluster from the dashboard.
Super video! Na mom Megane 3 karavanu su nestali zvukovi za žmigavce, sva 4, nevezani pojas i sl. Da li možda znaš gdje bi bio problem i koje je rješenje? Da li je do tog malog zvučnika kojeg spominju po internetu i ako je gdje se on nalazi? Hvala puno i lijepi pozdrav
Zdravo Mario, nažalost nemam nikakve lepe vesti za tebe jer nisam imao tih problema uopšte. Malo sam istražio, pokušaj i ti - navodno je problem ili u samom zvučniku ili u zadnjem centralnom zaključavanju pojaseva, navodno tamo ima senzor koji pravi problem. Da li je i šta je, stvarno ne bih znao... I hvala na komentaru!!!
ruclips.net/video/aB46EBrILIs/видео.htmlsi=YNGfhXvJT2kN9uXx
Имам исти проблем на Рено Флуенсе.
Maybe you can help me. I need to find and replace buzzer that makes signpost sound. Where find it?
Did you find answer about buzzer? In my dash it is quiet too.
@@juhaeske Not yet but i think im close to. I've found info, that buzzer is located inside a instrument cluster. You need to buy used instrument cluster, open it and take buzzer from used one to yours. You can also buy and replace whole instrument cluster but it is a bit harder, becouse the new one must have lower course than in yours. Then you need to change it in on your current value by CLIP. The new one also must be compatible to your's engine version. Good luck bro!
@@kubagit002 I opened instrument cluster and resistance of speaker t is 1-2 Mohms instead of 50ohms written in speaker. That is really easy to repair. I just ordered few miniature speakers, only 3-4 euros each. Let's see how this goes.
@@kubagit002 There is flat cable for LCD panel. You have to be veryvery careful when lifting PCB up. Open as little as possible to reach soldering points!
You might loose some elements in LCD and it will be tricky to get flat cable pressed against contacts again.
@@juhaeske Hell yeah, finally i've had some time to fix it and its working again. For me a bit too quiet, but still better than completly quiet. Or maybe it is possible to make it louder somehow?
Thank you. I have a failing bulb on my instrument panel, and I was considering taking it to the garage as I thought it would take a lot removing the dash to get to that one bulb. But if it's that easy to do I will try it.
Have you succeeded in replacing the failing bulb? Have you brought it to the garage or have you done it yourself? In case of the latter, was it easy?
@@elhadoui Ελληνικά
Marvelous, very well done!
Gde se može kupit ovaj alat za skidanje ploče?
@@markmarcus4947 Realno, nigde... Imam ja, ostalo mi je od Megana.
are the tools you using any special?
No, but they're hand made by myself according to the instructions provided in the description of the video. There's a look and shape of the tool used, so you can see what I'm talking about.
Hi is they a cluster test at my temp gauge only goes 1 digit! Wondered if lcd was knackered
Not without Renault CLIP diagnostic tool, unfortunately.
You are a master! thanks man!
Thanks, I'm glad to help ;)
Da li se moze staviti od gt line instrumental tabla umjesto ove digitalne? Hvala vam
@@anix1398 Iskreno, ne bih znao. Pretpostavka je da može, ali samo to - pretpostavka... Inače, ovo i jeste bio GT Line model, ali je Renault u te početne godine stavljao najčešće digitalnu, neki kasniji modeli 2013, pa nadalje i 2014 i kasnije do Megana 4 su imali kompletnu analogne obrtomere.
Hvala
Kako vas sluzu auto. Kod mene je 1.9dci 2010. Ekstra se pokazao
@@anix1398 Prošlo vreme, služio je do pre dve godine kada je prodat. Za svojih 6 godina eksploatacije 1.5dCi je radio sjajno. Motor nijedan problem, nikakav. Nema gde nas nije odveo, nigde ostavio, sjajan auto iako možda malo dosadan...
Hvala puno na i vise nego korisnom klipu.
Imam dva pitanja.
Da li ti je poznato, zbog cega dolazi do treperenja osvetljenja obrtomera?
Da li je u pitanju dotrajalost sijalica ili je mozda u pitanju los lem?
Verovatno su LE diode pri izdisaju. Rastavljanje ne bi trebalo da bude previše teško, ali jeste pipavo, pogotovo oko flat kabla za ekran brzinomera.
Imam slicno pitanje druze na obrnometru mi konstanto svetli broj 4,5 i skala za obrtaja ostali brojevi se nekad nekad upale i sve radi normalno pa se opet izgubi da li su u pitanji te diode ili mozda neki kontakt?Hvala:)
I ja imam sličan problem. Nekad donji deo oko 1 i 2 ne radi, nekad gornji oko 4 i 5, nekad ceo panel sa brojevima radi, a nekad ne radi ništa. Ovo ne utiče na kazaljku, ona uvek svetli. Tačno vidim kad prestane neka od lampica da radi. Mislio sam da je do temperature, ali nema pravila kad prestaje sa radom i vraća se u život. Niko od majstora ne želi da se bakće sa ovim jer je pipavo i iziskuje vreme.
And can you say me how i change the light? She was Blinking all the time
Did you check the type of bulbs?
Od cega si napravio te limice
Pa... od nekog tanjeg metala, koji se ne može tako preterano lako saviti. Može i tanji aluminijum samo ukoliko je solidno čvrst, da nije previše mekan.
Imaš ovde iz uputstva za Megane 3 i kako izgledaju - pa možeš uporediti sa mojom "malom privredom": megane-iii.blogspot.com/p/speedo-cluster-removal.html
koje su dimenzije tog lima? i jel treba da se otpoji akumulator prije?
Ulazna širina ovih metalnih delova je oko 7.5mm, njihova debljina oko 1mm, može i za nijansu deblje, a dužina oko 3-4cm do zakrivljenja. Mora da ima i to koleno da bi mogli lepo da uđe a da ne zagrebe gornji deo table (providni deo i hrom okvir). Kada se ugura, a mora mali jače da se ugura, tabla se uhvati za okvir i lagano izvlači napolje. Bitno je samo da se izvuče instrument tabla lagano, malo po malo, levo pa desno. Volan spustiti skroz dole i odaljiti maksimalno od table da imaš bolji pristup. Skinuo sam džek sa table bez skidanja kleme sa akumulatora, jedina posledica bila je da se resetovala potrošnja goriva.
🎉🎉🎉
Gracias!
De nada! :)
Druze mozes da mi napravis ta dva alata 😇
Ako si iz Pančeva mogu da ti pozajmim drage volje, ako nisi imaš malo niže u komentarima kojih su dimenzija ti mali limovi. 👍
@ nisam iz Panceva.
Pokazao sam limarima ali bezuspešno je. Jel mozes da mi napravis uredno bi platio 😇
A jbg, videću ako imam nekog materijala da li mogu da iskoristim i napravim. Odakle si inače?
@ Kv
Evo ti moja email adresa slobodan88bg@hotmail.com
Posalji mi br tel da se dogovorimo 😇
@ ili mi pošalji slike alata putem e maila.
Slike neka budu iz razlicitih uglova da bi pokazao limaru.
E mail:
slobodan88bg@hotmail.com
OMG, pull out driver side vent, put hand there and push out the cluster. You're done
What U mean
@@hughmcdonough6825 exactly what I have written - remove driver side went, put hand there and push out the cluster
U
koji je motor u ovom autu
hvala
1.5dCi od 110ks je u pitanju.
@ hvala puno na brzom odgovoru iako je video star. Kako si bio ili si jos uvek zadovoljan sa tim motorom i kako se kretala gradska potrosnja. Hvala jos jednom
@@zoran.curcic Prezadovoljan baš, mala potrošnja i pouzdan motor totalno. Motor NIJEDAN problem za 6 godina, samo filteri i ulje, tj redovan servis. Otvoreno oko 5l, autoput oko 5,8, grad nešto više ali opet ovo sve prethodno je glavno.
@ puno hvala