Brooke Raboutou on Downgrading 'Box Therapy' & V17 Projects
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2024
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About The Guest:
Brooke Raboutou is an Olympian and a V15 boulderer from Colorado.
We talked about growing up in a family of world-class climbers, balancing college with training for the Olympics, her mindset for competitions, why she meditates every day, her favorite hype music, working on her confidence, using pressure as fuel, focusing on the bigger picture, competing to win while supporting friends and teammates, how she balances competitions with sending hard boulders, and much more!
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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I appreciate anyone giving an honest take on a grade, even if the honest take tends to be a downgrade, which includes the context of "for me" and includes the idea the other person being honest is also not wrong.
Brooke's opinion is good enough for me.
As I understand ratings V=velocity, 15 or 16 is the exponent you raise it to before multiplying it by my weight; to determine how deep of a crater I would leave when I fall off. Have I got it?
That is correct.
"how could someone be wrong?" best quote on grade opinions EVER (in my opinion)
The fact is, Box Therapy is WAY HARDER than what most people will EVER be able to climb. I appreciate Brooke's thoughtfulness on her explanation. Tons of respect! You are a legend woman!
In the tiniest way, I understand the feeling, all of the "hard" graded routes that I've sent in my gym always feel soft, and when you know how hard most routes of a grade usually feel, it's hard to feel good about claiming that what you sent really was that grade. She's a very humble gal for how insanely strong she is, and 99% of the people making comments and giving her backlash are never going to even be close to trying these routes. Great little clip.
Steven, thank you for always bringing the banger interviews. Brook seems super cool. Loved this.
She didn’t downgrade Katie. She downgraded Daniel…
Which is one of the coolest and ballsiest things you could do in the climbing world. Way to go Brooke!
Hey, you can downgrade the climb but you can't downgrade how terrifying a specific neck tattoo is 🤷♀️
i dont think you quite got the point.
u kinda missed the point with that one
I liked the phrasing "for me it was a V15", for me that's all anyone can say for a grade, particularly at the top end.
GO BROOKE! 🤙🏽
Brooke rocks.
Honestly with how each climb can suit different builds better and it being a strength to weight ratio sport. Its not a surprise something can be one grade for one person and another grade to the next. Climbing grades are not accurate enough to have seperate weight/height classes for grades. Would take forever to do and change everything, but would make more sense.
Steven's in a house!
No mention of a V17 project in this clip, right?
Couldn't find it either
7:30 shes basically saying if ur not sending it stfu about grades.
I wonder how Shawn graded it
v5 surely
he called it v15/8C, and he's been an upgrader in the past, like with Livin Large. Guess he's just honest!
@@chazott pretty sure nalle upgraded livin large before he did but yea, j honest. most of these top guys are secure enough in their abilities to j rate things what they think is accurate for the love of the sport.
Brooke's reasoning for suggesting V15 is well reasoned and honest. A suggested downgrade by a repeater in most any other case would not be so controversial. But since it was the "first V16" by a female (Katie Lamb), the downgrade from the Raboutous seemed kind of sus. Mainly because Box Therapy's grade of V16 was initially suggested by Daniel Woods, who is one of the most qualified boulderers to grade something at the top end. And subsequently it was repeated by Drew Ruana and Sean Bailey, neither of whom suggested a downgrade. But then a woman (Katie) does it and it gets downgraded almost immediately after. From an outsider's perspective that might seem fishy. If only Shawn Raboutou repeated it, but neither Brooke nor Katie did it, does he still downgrade it? Who knows.
But I'm glad Brooke did this interview to clear things up a little. I think she is being honest, it's just unfortunate because it takes away from Katie's accomplishment a little. But climbing is a weird sport where things are subjective so something like this was bound to happen someday I suppose.
I remember when the only V16 in the world was "Gioia", and seemingly everything else that even suggested the same grade was downgraded (The Game, Lucid Dreaming).
It doesn't take away from Katie's accomplishment. It felt V16 for her, so it's V16. You didn't get the whole conversation if you don't think she's a V16-Climber.
It’s funny because if you watch Magnus’ video where he and Shawn climbed (which was wayyyy before Katie sent it), Shawn tells Magnus that Brooke was working on a V16 (but that they both agreed it was more likely V15), so he was always going to downgrade it because to him it felt easier than V16. And he did mention that he thought it was a hard V15 (for whatever that’s worth), so yeah. Personally I agree with the old grade only because I think that climbers are simple getting hella strong and things are naturally going to feel easier especially when a climb is in your style. But if they think V15 then that’s their opinion. And Shawn has since spoken to drew and Daniel who also agree that maybe it is V15. But the thing about the girls sending it and whether or not there would be a suggested downgrade is very curious.
@@callmetarif Right. She is obviously badass, but retroactively it takes away the accolade of being "the first woman to climb V16". That title is now still up for grabs. After both Raboutous sent Box Therapy and downgraded it, the consensus grade will go down to V15. Especially since Daniel is a part of that crew with the Raboutous and he is the FA so he will essentially officially downgrade his initial grade suggestion. Also it's nothing against Katie, but she is not as qualified as Daniel and Shawn to suggest the grade of V16, especially if she had never done a V15 prior. It's highly unlikely for a climber to skip a grade at the highest levels (V15-17).
Very sus in my opinion. I think Brooke really enjoys the spotlight and is determined to be the first female v16 ascensionist. I think that creates too much bias to provide a fair take, particularly at a grade she has never climbed before. But wait, her brother agrees with her lol.
@@jaredasa626 For the record, I don't think anyone involved did anything wrong. Katie took the grade suggested by Daniel's FA. Brooke and Shawn took the grade they feel is more correct since Brooke was able to do all the moves in one session. It's just unfortunate timing is all. And I don't think Brooke is trying to be the first female to V16. Most of her efforts seem to be focused on competition climbing indoors (World Cup and the Olympics) rather than outside. If she was trying to be the first female to do that then she would be spending more time climbing outside like her brother does. There are people like Brooke and Natalia Grossman who focus more efforts on comps and people like Katie Lamb and Isabelle Faus who climb more outside.
Sandbag everything all the time.
Brooke, my favourite lady misogynist climber.
What?
@@ML32.it was a joke lol
@@ML32.is referenced in the clip
It's so funny because a lot of people who use the word "misogynist" don't actually know what it means.
This happens to all of us, no? We break into a new grade and doubt that it was real. “Oh that must have been soft. I’m not REALLY at Vx grade level yet.”
I don’t think anyone ever has the gospel truth on grades. Even if you are at the top 1% of climbers, personal bias and perspective can and will skew your sense of grades. I think that’s fine. I prefer a humble climber that is surprised at breaking a grade over an elitist climber that grades everything they send as the “hardest climb in the world”
Steven needs to let his guests answer the questions as they stand. Instead he would do this thing where he inserts his own take at the end of his questions, and tries to corral them into answering in a particular sanitized way.
agreed! is kinda frustrating
i don't see it
I see it but that’s what Steve does. It’s more conversational.
Other people interview in other ways. No need to be down on him. Steve doesn’t “need” to do anything. Quite an aggressive comment. No need
😅
100%. My problem w the podcast has always been the ratio of host to guest speaking. But at the end of the day, it’s his pod. Let him do what he wants.
@@allyscott1590yeah for real, pretty aggressive comment. It’s his damn interview. You can listen or not…
the term "downgrading" is thrown around way too much these days...It's used incorrectly in this video with the title and often by the interviewer.
Historically, guidebooks say who has the FA, and the person with the FA not only named the climb but they also had the say on what the rating is. The first ascentionist and only...They may have asked a few others for their opinion for the grade before it made it to the guide book. The rating that the first ascentionist gave was rather set in stone unless it was completely wrong...
As climbers have more of an understanding about grades and are now more open to the idea of personal opinions we are okay with their opinion...The term "downgrading" is not really a thing anymore unless a hold breaks or the person with the FA is completely wrong still. The whole outlook on ratings have changed, your opinion used to be kept only as personal and you could say its sandbagged or over rated but now your opinion matters now for the overall consensus..you aren't down grading anything when you have an opinion, you're simply stating how hard it felt to you.
it's v - single digit vs v- double digits and you can't talk about how hard a double digits boulder is unless you've done one (or hundreds)
The Raboutou is a family of raccoons!
Sus
The problem with this particular situation of
downgrading or any downgrading for that matter, is sure it
can be your opinion its
not V16 or V17 or whatever
you think it’s not but if you’ve never climbed
grades above then how
do you know. The routes grade shouldn’t be changed unless its
by someone who can
Flash it onsight or has
climbed above grades
multiple times. It takes away from the aura of
the first hand experience
when the route was set &
the person who set it.
the timeline is disgusting