Joe, I know this video is two years old but I’m at work tonight and I enjoy watching your old stuff. Great job on the 413. Keep making them I’ll keep watching.
I appreciate the support! It was a fun build. This engine went into a truck and would destroy the tires with torque. I have a 440 series coming up that will have some nice aftermarket parts and see a dyno. I got the bottom end parts today to start building it after 🦃 day
Excellent job, Joe. This is the best how-to on RUclips because you don't gloss over the some of the most important stuff... cleaning! And you share the why and not just the how. I will reference this build in Hayden's.
I don’t care how the the video may be, I like the fact that I can see what you’re doing most of the time.... unlike the made for tv car shows the pump a custom car out in an hour (minus commercials).
@@JustMoparJoe At the rate Im going with all of my projects I might be better off taking all of them to other people to build hahaha, I bet you could make the 318 rip!
Starting a dry motor (sitting for some time) can give you grief, as you found out. I got into the habit that before starting, I use an adapter to the oil pump drive connected to a high torque drill motor and spin it up. As the pressure comes up, I have a buddy turn the engine with a wrench. We give it 3-4 revolutions. Your heads should be oiled up and dripping into the lifter valley, getting everything nice and oiled up. At a race we were in, I saw a crew start a 468 BBC, blown and injected on methanol on the trailer (warm-up start) without pre-lubing. It spun a rod bearing! Expensive engine and mistake! They just forgot to do it. Man, was that crew chief pissed at himself!
I did my own ring gapping for the first time on my motor a couple years ago but I learned something from you that I will remember for the next time. Thank you
It's awesome how in depth you are, not everyone will appreciate that. But for the guys watching and doing everything you do I'm sure they're super happy you don't do things like I do lol. Also that music sounds very familiar eh?
@@JustMoparJoe sounds good just trying to get you to spend a few bucks on a ready to race minus motor truck. You know we all think it’s fun to try to spend your money for you lol. Love the channel have a great night.
A fine video,Joe. Did i miss seeing you check bearing clearances before torqueing things down ? I'm just an old retired GM Tech but these basics are much the same on all. I myself bring Plastigage home with parts from machine shop. NEVER trust their measurements (anyone can make mistake). I pre assemble rods & caps w/bearings torqued to spec. Check that against miking the crank journals just be sure. Great job checking side clearances. You might already know,the one big main bearing with big sides,called "saddle" or "thrust". Big sides is so you can get feeler down between one side & block while prying crank front to back,then check the feeler. Sorry this stuff kinda pours out to someone i think really understands. Keep up the good work !
Thanks Shane! I’ve used the plastigauge in the past. I typically trust my machinist. He’s been doing all the work for my dad and for me in the last many years. However, I did check the inner rod bearings diameter after bolting together and compare it the journal of the crank. I believe the rot is .001 per inch of shaft diameter
Nice work... I liked the step of trying to match rings to the cylinders. Ive done that in the past. A small detail, but probably worth the extra few minutes!! "STD means..." oh, almost could have had fun with that one..🤣 Oh..one more thing. I have this spot on my trucks window, right by the UTG and 318WR decals that's blank. (Hint hint...😉)
something else you can do to make sure the cylinder is perfectly round is place the top rings in 3 levels of the cylinder and shine a light up from the bottom to see if there is and gaps between the ring and cylinder walls 😎👍
Thanks Greg. I cut it for time concerns. I wrapped that crank in black tape about 4 rounds. Not so much that the vice grips can slip, just enough to keep it from marring the snout. I then locked the vice grips in a way that mated them up against the keyway of the crank. Careful then to lock the grips with the appropriate amount of pressure to slightly dig the grips into the tape without hurting anything. I mostly spin the crank clockwise during the build to keep the grips against the keyway. That being explained, it would have taken 5 minutes for me to articulate that to the viewers in the video. Some won’t understand, others won’t agree with the method, and the rest are fine with it. One thing it does do is prove that the rotating assembly moves freely and is well lubricated. Thanks for the support. I will consider this in my next build series 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe Correct, most will not understand, I cringed at the vice grips. Your explanation makes more sense now. I can't count the amount of damaged cranks I have seen due to careless people, thanks for the response and kudos for explaining
@@gregtough9055 no problem bud! I learned the black tape trick on a car antenna years ago. I was able to borrow the nice crank snout socket in the degreeing video. Typically I run the crank bolt back in with an extra washer. I’ll get a socket now.
Thanks Brother. It’s a pump gas motor. The dishes are because he didn’t want to spend 500$ more on pistons. Then 200$ more on boring and honing. This will be an excellent, no frills engine. Think of a 77 440 in a ram truck. It had 8/1 compression and a junk cam with low flowing heads and exhaust manifolds. This engine will have the best cam technology, aluminum high rise dual plane intake, headers, 800 cfm carb, and nicely ported heads. Going to be a good runner.
Thanks Bill. I believe that’s where they came out of a blast cabinet and had a line of sand shot across them. I noticed that also when I got closer to them.
I certainly try to be careful when installing rings or any engine parts. The one filmed was the first piston. The others were all flawless. I’ve never noticed any scratches from he rings on the piston side. If so, I’d address it.
It’s really cool to see the careful steps you take when assembling a motor. I have never done any engine rebuilding, owned my Mopar 7 years and would love to be a part of the rebuild. I have a bone stock 400 bb out of a 73 charger in my 65 Coronet. Is there an advantage to a 413, 426 or 400 or is it really just preference? I just want a stoplight killer streetcar to run 13’s in Colorado.
Thanks brother! The 400 is loved by many because it had the largest bore out of all those mentioned. The downfall is they have low compression because they were smog motors. I’d you were to throw on some closed chambered heads, you’d be doing well. This owner actually got this 413 because he couldn’t find a 440, anywhere nearby for a decent price. Everyone has a preference usually. I’ve had them all except a 426.
Add up all the gunk you cleaned up from the crank,oil gallys,etc and it would probably be a half cup who would put a half cup of gunk into a quart of oil and then pour it into there engine? thanks for the emphasis on being clean!
Very good stuff, learning a lot :) Bought this dvd on how to build engines, but the guy who did it was too sloppy for my taste, skipped some important steps when it came to cleaning, lubing and measurement too.
Another great video! Love the detail. Do you check your clearances with plasti gauge or a micrometer? I was taught in the early 70s that the slot on the rod was to locate the bearing. Bearing crush would stop the bearing from turning. Rod and main bearing surface finish was important as well. Shiny surface usually meant bearing movement. Install of bearings needed to be on clean dry surface. I think you mentioned you dont run the oil pump to pre lube the engine any reason why? It lubes all the bearings and fills the lifters if you turn the crank at the same time. Just wondering?
I always always always prime my oil pumps before running an engine. Even turn it over and see oil pressure on the gauge. I won’t start one dry. I even try to turn out over the fewest amount possible to keep from wiping the lube from the cam. I used a meter to Look at these rod bearings before lubing. My machinist said I could bolt it together and go. It didn’t need checked. He was right in this case. Usually these stock style rebuilds don’t have to have the knats ass checking of tolerances. Especially if it was running great before tear down, like this one. I’ve used plastigauge in the past. I have a 512 stroker coming up in the next few weeks. It’ll get the full Monty! 🤣
Yes sir I did. It was a .040 440 with stock stroke. It was a nice kit. I am building a 512 for a guy in the coming months. The kit is sitting in my garage. He is still gathering parts.
@@JustMoparJoe RIGHT ON, I HAVE A 512 WITH DUAL 600 EDDIES, RPM HEADS, I AM GOING TO A TRICKFLOW 270 AND EFI OR SINGLE 1050 DOUBLE PUMPER THIS THING PUNISHES THE TIRES
Check out quick fuel as well. My brother just had a single 950 on his 540 pump gas engine and made 711 hp. I like he dual 4 set up. We ran two edelbrock 750’s on a tunnel ram in the 72 swinger.
Very low. Probably 8/1. The engine runs very well and pulls the 74 D100 well. The owner didn’t want to buy new pistons, rebalance, and pay for extra machine work. Sorry for the bad audio. ruclips.net/video/iNnGPHJ8B9Y/видео.html
@@JustMoparJoe l have the same pieces you have. I'll probably put it in a similar truck. Your videos are great. I have similar issues with your video on rockers and pushrods. I couldn't get help anywhere. The shop in town was no good. They knew Chevys well. But not mopars.
@JustMoparJoe I binge watch the series and I was really impressed. My first car was a 68 dodge charger when I was 16 with a 383, MI sold it when I joined the USMC and went to Okinawa. Man I miss that car, it was so much fun to drive. Now I'm 67 and wish I could build a 68 roadrunner, or a 69.
Joe, I know this video is two years old but I’m at work tonight and I enjoy watching your old stuff. Great job on the 413. Keep making them I’ll keep watching.
I appreciate the support! It was a fun build. This engine went into a truck and would destroy the tires with torque. I have a 440 series coming up that will have some nice aftermarket parts and see a dyno. I got the bottom end parts today to start building it after 🦃 day
Excellent job, Joe. This is the best how-to on RUclips because you don't gloss over the some of the most important stuff... cleaning! And you share the why and not just the how. I will reference this build in Hayden's.
Thanks John! There will be building to come this weekend!
I don’t care how the the video may be, I like the fact that I can see what you’re doing most of the time.... unlike the made for tv car shows the pump a custom car out in an hour (minus commercials).
Haha! Thank you Mike. Those are the shows that shaped a lot of my childhood. My dad and grandpa had to remind me what’s made for tv!
Really enjoyed this episode. Have always been a big fan of Mopar.
Thanks brother! Hope to finish this up soon and get it on the run stand!
Great build episode, I appreciate all the details!
Thanks Duddie! You ever make it to Arkansas and Drop that 318 for the same treatment!
@@JustMoparJoe At the rate Im going with all of my projects I might be better off taking all of them to other people to build hahaha, I bet you could make the 318 rip!
I do it the same way, no disasters yet! Hehe. Great work Joe!
Thanks KARMA! That’s the way I was taught. This has been a fun build.
Starting a dry motor (sitting for some time) can give you grief, as you found out. I got into the habit that before starting, I use an adapter to the oil pump drive connected to a high torque drill motor and spin it up. As the pressure comes up, I have a buddy turn the engine with a wrench. We give it 3-4 revolutions. Your heads should be oiled up and dripping into the lifter valley, getting everything nice and oiled up. At a race we were in, I saw a crew start a 468 BBC, blown and injected on methanol on the trailer (warm-up start) without pre-lubing. It spun a rod bearing! Expensive engine and mistake! They just forgot to do it. Man, was that crew chief pissed at himself!
Yes sir. I always prime my new builds.
Thanks!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 🫡
Great tech vid Joe... great to watch this go together, and pick up a few simple tips along the way!! Cheers
Thanks brother! I hate that my camera was so glitchy. Idk if it it’s the computer or the camera.
No major issues that motor should be just fine big block Mopar one of the best
Mopar to the front!
Excellent Joe the only thing that I might add is lube one Journal at a time keeps dust from sticking to your Lube while you're assembling
Thanks brother
Very good job Joe.
Thanks brother!
I did my own ring gapping for the first time on my motor a couple years ago but I learned something from you that I will remember for the next time. Thank you
That’s awesome! Glad I could help!
It's awesome how in depth you are, not everyone will appreciate that. But for the guys watching and doing everything you do I'm sure they're super happy you don't do things like I do lol. Also that music sounds very familiar eh?
Someone stole the music from me! 😅
I thought of you the other day when I came across back halfed d100 race truck that was set up for a big block that needed an engine only. Great video.
Thanks Stan! Maybe my black truck should sport a big block someday 🤔
@@JustMoparJoe sounds good just trying to get you to spend a few bucks on a ready to race minus motor truck. You know we all think it’s fun to try to spend your money for you lol. Love the channel have a great night.
A fine video,Joe. Did i miss seeing you check bearing clearances before torqueing things down ? I'm just an old retired GM Tech but these basics are much the same on all. I myself bring Plastigage home with parts from machine shop. NEVER trust their measurements (anyone can make mistake). I pre assemble rods & caps w/bearings torqued to spec. Check that against miking the crank journals just be sure. Great job checking side clearances. You might already know,the one big main bearing with big sides,called "saddle" or "thrust". Big sides is so you can get feeler down between one side & block while prying crank front to back,then check the feeler. Sorry this stuff kinda pours out to someone i think really understands. Keep up the good work !
Thanks Shane! I’ve used the plastigauge in the past. I typically trust my machinist. He’s been doing all the work for my dad and for me in the last many years. However, I did check the inner rod bearings diameter after bolting together and compare it the journal of the crank. I believe the rot is .001 per inch of shaft diameter
27:50 its alaways a good idea to make sure the rubber is still in place before you finish hammering it in.
🤣🤣🤣🤣. I literally went back and looked and then realized...
@@JustMoparJoe hey its great advice!
Awesome as always Joe.
Thanks Sam!
Nice work... I liked the step of trying to match rings to the cylinders. Ive done that in the past. A small detail, but probably worth the extra few minutes!!
"STD means..." oh, almost could have had fun with that one..🤣
Oh..one more thing. I have this spot on my trucks window, right by the UTG and 318WR decals that's blank. (Hint hint...😉)
I heard that! I’ll get some more stickers made soon! Thanks brother!
Great 😊 video
Thanks brother. It was a cool build
Enjoyed the video.
Thanks Joe! Chipping away
Progress! :)
Yes sir! Hope to start it Thursday!
something else you can do to make sure the cylinder is perfectly round is place the top rings in 3 levels of the cylinder and shine a light up from the bottom to see if there is and gaps between the ring and cylinder walls 😎👍
Absolutely! I didn’t check this one because it just left the machine shop. I know you can’t always trust the material and the man. 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe sweet ! just being helpful ✌
I appreciate it!
All good info, good video, but vise grips on the crank? Not to be negative, but that's a lateral step from a pipe wrench
Agreed. I bought a cheap crank socket from summit that has a slot for the key. Slips on the end of the crankshaft. Works real slick.
Thanks Greg. I cut it for time concerns. I wrapped that crank in black tape about 4 rounds. Not so much that the vice grips can slip, just enough to keep it from marring the snout. I then locked the vice grips in a way that mated them up against the keyway of the crank. Careful then to lock the grips with the appropriate amount of pressure to slightly dig the grips into the tape without hurting anything. I mostly spin the crank clockwise during the build to keep the grips against the keyway. That being explained, it would have taken 5 minutes for me to articulate that to the viewers in the video. Some won’t understand, others won’t agree with the method, and the rest are fine with it. One thing it does do is prove that the rotating assembly moves freely and is well lubricated. Thanks for the support. I will consider this in my next build series 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe Correct, most will not understand, I cringed at the vice grips. Your explanation makes more sense now. I can't count the amount of damaged cranks I have seen due to careless people, thanks for the response and kudos for explaining
@@gregtough9055 no problem bud! I learned the black tape trick on a car antenna years ago. I was able to borrow the nice crank snout socket in the degreeing video. Typically I run the crank bolt back in with an extra washer. I’ll get a socket now.
awesome stuff brother,dished pistons.....boost??I notice the magic stick is another quality Lunati I see
Thanks Brother. It’s a pump gas motor. The dishes are because he didn’t want to spend 500$ more on pistons. Then 200$ more on boring and honing. This will be an excellent, no frills engine. Think of a 77 440 in a ram truck. It had 8/1 compression and a junk cam with low flowing heads and exhaust manifolds. This engine will have the best cam technology, aluminum high rise dual plane intake, headers, 800 cfm carb, and nicely ported heads. Going to be a good runner.
Great build enjoy these build series ,Noticed the pistons looked painted? grey on the rods ? Thanks for sharing the Mopar Goodness!!
Thanks Bill. I believe that’s where they came out of a blast cabinet and had a line of sand shot across them. I noticed that also when I got closer to them.
I notice that when you installing the rings you dragged the ring across the piston which can easily scratch the piston just an observation!
I certainly try to be careful when installing rings or any engine parts. The one filmed was the first piston. The others were all flawless. I’ve never noticed any scratches from he rings on the piston side. If so, I’d address it.
10-4 always pull the Rings out straight
When I built my first engine, re-using the factory rod bolts, I torqued 5 ft. lbs. over just to create a new stretch point.....if that made any sense.
I understand the thought. I’ve slightly overtorqued a few before.
It does to me
It’s really cool to see the careful steps you take when assembling a motor. I have never done any engine rebuilding, owned my Mopar 7 years and would love to be a part of the rebuild. I have a bone stock 400 bb out of a 73 charger in my 65 Coronet. Is there an advantage to a 413, 426 or 400 or is it really just preference? I just want a stoplight killer streetcar to run 13’s in Colorado.
Thanks brother! The 400 is loved by many because it had the largest bore out of all those mentioned. The downfall is they have low compression because they were smog motors. I’d you were to throw on some closed chambered heads, you’d be doing well. This owner actually got this 413 because he couldn’t find a 440, anywhere nearby for a decent price. Everyone has a preference usually. I’ve had them all except a 426.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks Joe! I really appreciate the info!!! Keep up the great content and videos👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the support!
Add up all the gunk you cleaned up from the crank,oil gallys,etc and it would probably be a half cup who would put a half cup of gunk into a quart of oil and then pour it into there engine? thanks for the emphasis on being clean!
Thank you! Every little bit helps
Very good stuff, learning a lot :) Bought this dvd on how to build engines, but the guy who did it was too sloppy for my taste, skipped some important steps when it came to cleaning, lubing and measurement too.
Thank you! I am doing a 400 BBM build that’s similar this year. I am going to dyno it and use stock stroke. Shooting for 500 horse.
👍
Thanks brother!
Another great video! Love the detail. Do you check your clearances with plasti gauge or a micrometer? I was taught in the early 70s that the slot on the rod was to locate the bearing. Bearing crush would stop the bearing from turning. Rod and main bearing surface finish was important as well. Shiny surface usually meant bearing movement. Install of bearings needed to be on clean dry surface. I think you mentioned you dont run the oil pump to pre lube the engine any reason why? It lubes all the bearings and fills the lifters if you turn the crank at the same time. Just wondering?
I always always always prime my oil pumps before running an engine. Even turn it over and see oil pressure on the gauge. I won’t start one dry. I even try to turn out over the fewest amount possible to keep from wiping the lube from the cam. I used a meter to Look at these rod bearings before lubing. My machinist said I could bolt it together and go. It didn’t need checked. He was right in this case. Usually these stock style rebuilds don’t have to have the knats ass checking of tolerances. Especially if it was running great before tear down, like this one. I’ve used plastigauge in the past. I have a 512 stroker coming up in the next few weeks. It’ll get the full Monty! 🤣
@@JustMoparJoe thanks always look forward to your videos. I must of missed heard/understood you on a previous video..
have you tried a build using a 440source kit?
Yes sir I did. It was a .040 440 with stock stroke. It was a nice kit. I am building a 512 for a guy in the coming months. The kit is sitting in my garage. He is still gathering parts.
@@JustMoparJoe RIGHT ON, I HAVE A 512 WITH DUAL 600 EDDIES, RPM HEADS, I AM GOING TO A TRICKFLOW 270 AND EFI OR SINGLE 1050 DOUBLE PUMPER
THIS THING PUNISHES THE TIRES
@@JustMoparJoe THE CREATOR OF WWW.CUDACHALLENGER.COM SWEARS BY THE PROFORM CARBS
Check out quick fuel as well. My brother just had a single 950 on his 540 pump gas engine and made 711 hp. I like he dual 4 set up. We ran two edelbrock 750’s on a tunnel ram in the 72 swinger.
I'm only 9 Minutes in but if you got a green Gap a 23 just grind them suckers just a little more and put a turbo on it. 😂 😂 😂
I heard it called a taiwan twister lately LOL
@@JustMoparJoe getting ready for bed in Reno Nevada so I won't be stopping by today.
What is your final compression ratio with the #452 heads and dished pistons?
Very low. Probably 8/1. The engine runs very well and pulls the 74 D100 well. The owner didn’t want to buy new pistons, rebalance, and pay for extra machine work. Sorry for the bad audio. ruclips.net/video/iNnGPHJ8B9Y/видео.html
@@JustMoparJoe l have the same pieces you have. I'll probably put it in a similar truck. Your videos are great. I have similar issues with your video on rockers and pushrods. I couldn't get help anywhere. The shop in town was no good. They knew Chevys well. But not mopars.
Someone said there is a winter block? 400 ?
I’m not sure if the casting numbers, but I’ve heard that before
I've not been a subscriber long a d I was thinking you could have stuffed the bore with some old jeff Gordon t-shirts to keep the overspray out.
Man I’ve grown a lot since this build. Made over 500 horsepower with a stock stroke 400. Check out that build if you can.
@JustMoparJoe I binge watch the series and I was really impressed. My first car was a 68 dodge charger when I was 16 with a 383, MI sold it when I joined the USMC and went to Okinawa. Man I miss that car, it was so much fun to drive. Now I'm 67 and wish I could build a 68 roadrunner, or a 69.
@@stevt100 thank you for the support, and for your service!
@@JustMoparJoe you are welcome
The bearings are aluminum!?! I thought bearings were hardened steel
They have a coating that looks like aluminum.
I’ve always heard people say, “was here any copper” showing in them? I watched an interesting video on the coatings applied to race bearings today.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks Joe & Max i’ll look it up. great work at the drags BTW.